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T-RTSCFS^    FELIX    SAI.M-SAT.M. 


Ten  Years  of  My   Life 


HV   TUL 


PRINCESS  FELIX  SALM-SALM. 


---^«£>feg3S«^ 


NEW   YORK  : 
R.  WORTHINGTON.  750  BROADWAY 

1877. 


/■\.  4- 


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The  Courier  Company, 

Electrot>/pers.  Printers  and  Bmders, 

Buffalo.  N.Y. 


PREFACE. 


My  poor  husband  published  some  years  ago  his  'Diary  in  Mexico.'  I 
contributed  to  this  work  some  leaves  of  mine,  promising  to  publish  more 
whenever  I  should  find  leisure.  Encouraged  by  many  friends  and  the  kind 
manner  in  which  the  above-mentioned  fragment  was  received,  I  shall  carry 
out  my  promise  now. 

World-stirrmg  events  have  taken  place  since  1868.  History  has  turned 
another  leaf  in  her  eternal  book.  The  French  period  has  come  to  a  close, 
and  the  GeiTnan  era  has  commenced.  The  old  German  Empire  has  risen, 
like  the  phoenix  from  its  ashes,  in  richer  glory  than  ever  before,  and  from 
its  iidia  It  throne  a  fresh  and  wholesome  current  is  sweeping  over  our  globe. 
Much  antiquat°d  dust  has  been  kicked  up  ;  time-honoured  prejudices  and 
generally  admitte^^  principles  are  fluttering  in  the  air  ;  old  people  look  at 
them  regre  ingly  and  bewildered,  prophesying  the  end  of  all  things  and 
howling  a  Miserere,  whilst  the  young  generation  rejoice,  full  of  hope,  and 
breathe  wi'h  delighc  t!ie  spring  air  of  rational  liberty.  The  genius  of  the 
age  looks  smi.'ngly  fiom  i*s  sunny  height  upon  flying  superstition,  carry- 
ing tyranr.y  on  its  back. 

Ti'iough  it  seems  to  be  a  law  of  nature  that  even  the  most  beneficial 
poliiical  or  social  changes  must-be  ushered  in  first  with  bloodshed  and  tears, 
it  is  abo  natuiul  that  the  feelings  of  those  who  saw  flow  the  hearts'  blood 
of  their  fathe';s,  husbands,  or  sons,  and  who  with  their  tears  and  ruined 
lives  in  reality  paid  and  still  pay  alone  for  the  national  hopes  bought  by 
such  sacrifice.-.,  are  not  quite  in  harmony  wivh  the  feelings  of  the  great 
majority. 

Though  well  aware  that  the  late  cruel  war  made,  alas,  too  many  suffer- 
ers hke  myself,  and  that  our  grief  is  felt  like  a  dissonance  in  the  general 
concert  of  rejoicing,  who  is  cruel  enough  to  blame  a  poor  woman  because 
she  moun-s  hei  li'ile  flow-r-gardcn  changed  by  that  storm  into  a  wilder 
ness  ?  Who  is  unjuit  enough  to  accuse  her  of  selfishness,  or  want  of 
jvatriot'sm,  or  nairowness  of  mind,  if  she  cannot  suppress  a  shudder  on 
hearing  the  marches  of  triumph  or  the  rejoicings  of  the  crowd  ?  Alas  ! 
in  my  ear  is  still  resounding  the  din  and  roar  of  battles,  ahd  in  my  heart 
are  still  lingering  the  cries  of  the  wounded  and  the  heartrending  whispered 
woids  of  the  dying,  sending  their  last  greetings  and  blessings  to  their  be- 
reaved mothers,  wives,  or  children.  And  above  all,  before  my  mental  eye 
is  still  a  maddening  vision — the  gory  body  of  a  dear,  kind  husband. 

Yes,  yes ;  I  know  he  died  a  most  glorious  death  for  his  beloved  king 
and  the  independence  and  glory  of  his  dear  Germany,  and  his  remains  are 
enshrined  in  a  princely  tomb, — but  alas,  he  is  dead,  dead,  gone  forever, — 
and  I  have  only  a  })oor  weak  woman's  heart. 


vi  '  Preface. 

Indulgent  readers,  I  am  sure,  will  forgive  me  if  now  and  then  a  melnn- 
choly  or  bitter  tone  vibrates  through  the  following  pages  ;  but  I  am  less 
sure  of  being  forgiven  by  another  class  of  readers,  who,  on  the  contrary, 
will  be  indignant  and  accuse  me  of  want  of  feeling,  or  of  levity,  because  I 
am  not  ahvays  melancholy. 

As  I  am  afraid  that  amongst  them  might  be  persons  whose  opinion  is  of 
very  great  value  to  me,  I  sliall  say  a  few  words  in  self-defence. 

Those  who  have  never  experienced  great  losses  or  troubles,  and  know 
grief  as  it  were  theoretically,  who  are  living  quiet  and  happy  under  the 
protection  of  a  kind  and  beloved  husband,  surrounded  by  a  crowd  of 
healthy  children,  often  imagine  that  they  could  not  survive  the  loss  of  one 
of  their  beloved,  or  at  least  never  smile  or  feel  happy  again.  That  is  an ' 
error.  The  Almighty,  who  tempers  the  wind  to  the  shorn  lamb,  has 
ordered  time  and  reason  to  blunt  the  edge  of  grief ;  the  desire  or  attempt 
to  perpetuate  it  is  unreasonable  and  sinful  and  not  worthy  of  a  sound- 
minded  person.  I  consider  it  to  be  a  duty  towards  myself  and  the  world, 
in  which  I  may  have  to  live  still  many  years,  to  try  my  best  to  conquer  this 
morbid  inclination,  and  if  I  succeed  partially  iu  doing  so  it  would  be  hard 
and  unjust  to  accuse  me  of  levity,  for  that  I  am  not  devoid  of  feeling  may 
be  proved  by  the  fact  that  my  hair  has  become  grey  since  then, — and  I  have 
scarcely  passed  my  thirtieth  year. 

In  writing  the  following  pages  it  is  not  my  intention  to  write  my  biography. 
I  shall  only  relate  what  1  have  seen  and  observed  since  1862,  the  year  in 
which  I  was  married  to  Prince  Felix  zu  Salm-Salm.  This  time  of  ten 
years  is  one  of  the  most  memorable  in  history,  including  the  great  Ameri- 
can civil  war,  the  catastrophe  in  Mexico,  and  the  fall  of  the  Napoleonic 
empire.  Duri^lg  the  American  war  I  was  almost  always  with  my  husband  ; 
I  followed  him  also  to  Mexico,  and  was  not  only  a  mere  spectator  in  the 
great  and  sad  tragedy  enacted  there.  During  the  last  French  war  I  was 
with  the  army  from  the  commencement  to  the  end,  and  afterwards  I  visited 
Rome  and  Spain.  Everywhere  my  position  enabled  m.e  to  become 
acquainted  with  the  leading  persons,  and  to  be  an  eyewitness  of  the  most 
important  events.  It  may  therefore  be  supposed  that  I  have  something  to 
tell.  Supported  by  a  very  good  memory  and  a  carefully  and  regularly 
kept  diary,  I  shall  try  my  best  to  make  my  account  as  interesting  as  possi- 
ble, and  if  my  book  may  be  insignificant  as  a  literary  production,  I  hope 
it  will  not  tire  the  patience  of  the  reader. 


'  Agnes  zu  Salm-Salm. 

Bonn  on-the-Rhine. 


r 


CONTENTS. 


IN  THE  UNITED  STATES, 


CHAPTER  I. 

Some  Words  to  the  Reader — The  War  Excitement  in  the  United  States — 
The  falUng  and  the  rising  Military  Stars — McClellan  Commander-in- 
Chief — Organizing  the  Army — His  First  Review — Visit  to  Washington 
■ — Visiting  the  Camp — General  Louis  Blenker — German  Refugees — 
Prince  Felix  zu  Salm-Salm — What  happened  to  him  a/nd  to  me — The 
old,  old  Story — End  of  the  chapter,  and  turning  a  new  leaf.    .  Page  19 

CHAPTER  n. 

Who  governs  the  United  States  ? — How  it  is  done — Trying  my  wings — 
Senator  Harris — Albany — Governor  Morgan,  the  woman  hater — My 
first  battle — Victory — Salm,  Colonel  of  the  8th  N.  Y.  Regiment — 
Arrival  in  Aldy — Breaking  up  a  camp — Ride  to  Chantilly — The 
country-seat  of  a  Royal  Stuart   .         .         .         .         .         .         .31 

CHAPTER  HI. 

Returning  to  Washington — Bumside's  defeat  at  Fredericksburg — Return- 
ing to  the  camp — Our  birthday — How  the  soldiers  celebrated  it — A 
curious  birthday  cake — Aquaia  Creek — Our  canvas  palace — General 
Hooker  commanding  the  Potomac  army — Our  factotum,  old  Groeben 
— General  Sickles — His  sumptuous  festival — How  Uncle  Sam  cared 
for  his  soldiers — Mr,  and  Mrs.  Lincoln  visiting  the  camp — The 
President's  wife — Portrait  of  President  Lincoln — Salm's  regiment 
mustered  out — Returning  Home — Reception  in  Washington — In 
New  York — A  festival  in  Hamilton  Park — Salm  presented  with  a 
sword  of  honour — A  soldier's  ball — I  must  attempt  a  speech — Turning 
another  leaf. 37 


viii  -  Contents. 


CHAPTER  IV 

Our  New  York  life — In  a  Methodist's  house — Salm,  Colonel  of  the  68th 
Regiment  N.Y.  V. — In  partibus — Recruiting  difficulties — Salm  autho- 
rised to  raise  a  brigade — His  and  Corvin's  recruiting  plan  favoured  by 
Secretary  of  State,  W.  H.  Seward — An  audience  with  President 
Lincoln — Secretaiy  of  War  Stanton  opposing — A  visit  to  Blenker's 
farm — The  battle  of  Chancellorville — Defeat  of  Hooker — Superseded 
by  General  Meade — The  glorious  battle  of  Gettysburg — General 
Sickles  severely  wounded — The  New  York  Riots — Mrs.  Bennett — 
Mr.  James  Gordon  Bennett — His  Son — Fort  Washington — The  first 
appearance  of  Master  Jimmy — Mrs.  James  Speier — The  Spiritualist 
Excitement — Mrs.  Anna  Sugdon,  a  pretty  knocking,  and  Mrs.  Heath 
Adams,  a  writmg  medium — Spiritual  seances  at  my  house — At  Mrs. 
Bennett's — The  flying  music-book — At  Mrs  Speier's — A  table 
knocked  off"  its  legs — A  detected  tipping  medium — Bad  state  of  affairs 
— I  go  out  recruiting  to  Washington.    .       .         .         •         .     Page  48 

CHAPTER  V. 

The  Provost-Marshal-General  U.  S.,  General  James  Fry — My  success — 
Governor  Yates,  of  Illinois — Lovers  of  spirits  among  high-spirited 
gentlemen — I  become  a  captain,  commanding  a  company — Life  in 
Washington-  -Madame  von  Corvin — Sanitary  arrangements  in  the 
United  States — The  Sanitary  and  Christian  Commissions — How  the 
Government  honoured  dead  soldiers — National  cemeteries — A  hospi- 
tal city — Salm  again  on  the  war-path — My  journey  to  Nashville, 
Tenn. — Returning  to  Washington.     .         ,         ....     65 

CHAPTER  VI. 

Madame  von  Corvin  and  I  travel  from  Washington  to  Bridgeport,  Ala- 
bama— American  railroads — Pittsburg — Meeting  Charles  Schurz — 
How  he  was  received  there — Louisville,  Kentucky — Nashville,  Tenn. 
— The  St.  Cloud  Hotel — Travelling  with  a  military  train — Why  I 
stop  the  train — Arrival  in  Bridgeport — The  camp  on  the  Tennessee 
island — The  hospital — Traffic  with  the  rebels — Salt  serving  instead  of 
money — Neighbours — Expecting  a  rebel  surprise — Bridgeport — Col- 
onel Taylor — Rev.  Gilford  and  family — 13angerous  roads — Fort 
Prince  Salm — Life  on  the  island — Excursion  to  Chattanooga — Major- 
General  J.  Steedman — The  Match-bridge  at  Whiteside — Lookout 
Mountain — Fighting  Joe's  rock — The  rebels  advancing — Salm  leaving 
the  island  alone — Cut  off"  from  Nashville  by  General  Hood — How  we 
passed  oiir  time — Visits  received  and  paid — Generals  Brannon  and 
Granger — Rather  dangerous — Pleasure  trips  to  Stevenson — Victories 
— The  6Slh  Regiment  leaving  the  island — The  deserted  camp — Dan- 
gerous position — Nightly  disturbances — Meeting  Salm  and  Steedman 


Contents.  ix 

in  Stevenson  after  the  victorious  battles — Christmas  in  Alabama — We 
leave  all  for  Nashville — Colonel  and  Madame  von  Corvin  return  to 
Washington,  and  I  go  with  Salm  to  Bridgeport  —He  is  commander 
of  the  post — His  raids  against  the  rebels — His  staff — Captain  John- 
son and  his  wife,  my  sister,  arrive — Difficulties  in  reference  to  promo- 
tion— To  remove  these  I  am  sent  to  Washington.      .         .     P^ge  78 

CHAPTER  VII. 

On  board  the  *  General  Lyttle  ' — In  Washington — Up-hill  work — Senator 
Yates — Go  with  Groeben  to  New  York — Governor  Fenton — Governor 
Gilmore  of  New  Plampshire — Return  to  Washington — Victory — 
Receive  the  General's  commission  for  Salm — Living  at  Corvin's  in 
Georgetown — Short  sketch  of  war  events — Characteristic  of  General 
Grant — The  assassination  of  Lincoln — Attempt  against  Secretary 
Seward — Impression  made  by  that  catastrophe — The  Funeral — 
Andrew  Johnson,  the  new  President — Mr.  Field,  Assistant  .Secretaiy 
of  the  Treasury — Returning  to  the  war — Felix  in  Dalton,  Georgia — 
Arrival  in  Chattanooga — No  trains — Get  a  locomotive — Riding  on  the 
cow- catcher — A  journey  from  Dalton  to  Cleveland — A  fearful  night  in 
the  woods — Dangers  of  railway  travelling — A  narrow  escape — I  get  a 
baby  of  my  sister's — Starting  for  Atlanta,  Georgia — State  of  the 
country — Our  life  in  Atlanta — Leaving  for  Savannah— Fort  Pulaski — 
An  excursion  to  Augusta — Dangers  of  the  Savannah  rivers — Our 
steamer,  the  '  Fanny  Lehr,' running  on  a  snag — Sticking  in  the  mud — 
The  alligators — Assistance  arriving — Continue  our  journey — Coming 
up  with  the  '  Robert  Lehr,'  which  strikes  a  snag  and  goes  down- 
Returning  to  Savannah— End  of  the  war — Going  via  Baltimore  to 
Washington — Living  in  Georgetown  at  Corvin's — Forming  new  plans 
— Salm  resolves  to  go  to  Mexico — Groeben  is  to  go  with  him — I  re- 
main in  Washington — Take  a  bouse  in  that  city  together  with  the 
Corvins — Our  life — Excursions — Colonel  Moore — Leaving  for  Mexico 
— Good-bye  to  President  Johnson — On  board  the  '  Manhattan ' — 
Father  Fisher — Arrival  in  Havaunah — Surprise — Meeting  Salm — 
Arrival  in  Vera  Cruz lOQ 


MEXICO 


CHAPTER  Vni. 

Vera  Cruz — Great  graveyard — A  Mexican  diligence — Robbing  the  diligence 
— A  gentlemanly  sport — Paper  dresses — Terra  Templada — '  Get  oui 
if  you  can' — Pulque — In  an  Indian  hut— Orizava — Puebla — The 
plateau  of  Mexico — General  Zerman — Baron  Magnus.  ,     125 


Contents. 


CHAPTER  IX. 

Origin  of  the  City  of  Mexico — The  Alameda — The  Paseo  Nuevo—  A 
Mexican  gentleman  on  horseback — Promenade  de  la  Viga — The  float- 
ing islands — Theatres — Place  d'x\rmes — The  Cathedral — The  Sangra- 
rio — Disputacion  Iturbide — Aqueducts — The  National  Museum — The 
Sanctuario  de  Guadalupe — Its  wonderful  origin — The  Creole  Virgin — 
Chapultepec — Humming-birds — Mexican  houses  and  life — Mexican 
ladies — The  Indians — A  Ranchero — Mexican  market.       .     Page  135 

CHAPTER  X. 

Marshal  Bazaine — Madame  la  Mar^chale — Princess  Iturbide — Tacubaya — 
San  Augustin — A  projected  important  mission — How  it  ended — We 
go  on  an  expedition — Meeting  the  enemy — Result — Arrival  in  Tulan- 
cingo- — Order  to  evacuate — Jimmy — Carabajal,  the  robber-general  — 
March  to  Puebla — Meeting  the  Emperor  Maximilian — The  '  woman 
in  white  ' — I  fall  ill — General  panic — Returning  to  Mexico — The 
family  Hube — Departure  of  the  French — The  Emperor  leaving  for 
Queretaro — Salm  going  after  him — I  am  left  behind — General  Mar- 
quez — General  Vidaurri— Good  news — The  battle  of  San  Lorenzo — 
Marquez  a  coward — Porlirio  Diaz  before  Mexico.       ,         .         .     157 

CHAPTER  XI. 

Fearful  dreams — My  escaj^e  from  Tacubaya — Going  to  Mexico — Colonel 
Leon — My  propositions  to  the  German  Colonels — Negotiations — 
Madame  Baz — A  sad  mistake  rewarded  by  a  bullet — At  the  head- 
quarters of  Porfirio  Diaz — Mr.  Hube  my  interpreter — Return  to 
Mexico — Two  volleys  fired  at  me — No  harm  done — A  thunderstorm 
as  a  peace-maker — Baron  Magnus  retains  me  in  Mexico — What  re- 
sulted from  it — Confusion  in  Tacubaya — A  kind  invitation  to  go  to 
■  Tericho,  or  elsewhere  beyond  the  sea — Will  not  go — Female  general- 
ship against  Mexican  strategy — General  Baz — Permission  to  go  to 
Escobedo — Thirty-seven  letters  of  recommendation — My  journey  to 
Queretaro — Mexican  justice.     .  .         .         .         .         .         .174 

CHAPTER  XIL 

Arrival  before  Queretaro — Visit  to  Escobedo's  head-quarters — One  who 
had  'known  me  intimately' — ^Journey  to  San  Luis  Potosi — Lieut. - 
Colonel  Aspirez — An  audience  with  President  Juarez — M.  Iglesia — 
The  fall  of  Queretaro — The  Emperor  and  my  husband  prisoners — 
Journey  to  Queretaro — San  Teresita — My  first  interview  with  the 
Emperor — His  prison — I  arrange  a  meeting  between  the  Emperor  and 


Contents.  xi 

General  E'scobedo — What  happened  in  the  Hacienda  de  Hercules — 
General  Refugio  Gonzales  a  Marplot — The  convent  of  the  Capuchins — 
The  Emperor  forced  to  remain  in  a  grave  vault — Colonel  Villanueva. 

Page  I 86 


*i>^ 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

My  pkns  to  save  the  Emperor — What  Consul  Bahnsen  thought  of  them  — 
Visit  to  the  Emperor  at  midnight — A  letter  to  Juarez — Politeness  ot 
Escobedo — Preparing  to  go  to  San  Luis — Consul  Bahnsen's  fear  justi- 
fied— His  sleeping  partner —Another  audience  with  Juarez — My  plead- 
ing for  delay  —Mr.  Iglesia  on  my  side— Victory — Return  to  Queretaro — 
A  wide-awake  partner  of  Mr.  Bahnsen — A  fearful  journey — How  I 
looked — Scene  on  my  arrival  in  Maximilian's  prison  described  by 
another  eye-witness .         '194 

CHAPTER  XIV. 

My  husband's  plans  for  escape — I  do  not  believe  in  them — I  ofifer  to  go  to 
Mexico  to  fetch  Baron  Magnus,  lawyers,  and  money — Delays—  How 
I  managed  Escobedo — A  telegram  makes  my  journey  superfluous — 
Consul  Bahnsen  again  in  a  fright — ^Judge  Hall — Arrival  of  the  For- 
eign Ministers  in  Queretaro — Impression  made  by  it — Baron  Magnus 
— Money  no  object — The  Austrian  and  Belgian  Ministers — Mr. 
Curtopassi  —My  plan  to  save  the  Emperor — Money  wanted — Baron 
Magnus  gone  to  St.  lAiis — Colonel  Villaneuva — Colonel  Palacios — 
How  I  tempt  him — Two  bills  for  one  hundred  thousand  dollars  each, 
but  no  cash — Baron  Lago  in  deadly  fear  for  his  neck — Plis  cow- 
ardice         ...     200 

CHAPTER  XV. 

f 

Dr.  Basch  arrested  on  leaving  my  house — General  Escobedo  wishes  to  see 
me — A  grand  scene — A  furious  General  and  a  resolute  woman — What 
Escobedo  thought  of  the  great  Ministers — The  carriage  with  four 
mules  at  my  door — How  I  frighten  a  little  captain — Negotiations^ — 
Getting  in  the  carriage — How  I  got  out  of  it — Villanueva --T  am 
brought  to  Santa  Rosas — Go  from  there  to  San  Luis — Lenience  of 
Mexican  Generals  against  attempts  to  escape — Reasons  for  it — How 
I  was  received  by  Mr.  Juarez  and  Mr.  Iglesia — Respite  of  three  days 
— What  Baron  Magnus  might  have  done  if  he  had  been  somebody 
else — My  last  pleading  for  the  Emperor's  life — Jaurez  will  only  grant 
that  of  my  husband — Madame  de  Miramon's  audience  with  the  Presi- 
dent— Death  of  the  Emperor — Mr.  Lerdo — Return  to  Queretaro — Go 
to  Mexico — Again  to  Queretaro — Salm's  prison  life — A  roguish  doctor 
— Transportation  of  the  prisoners  to  Mexico — To  Vera  Cruz — My 
husband  in  Tehuacan — How  he  was  treated  by  Porfirio  Diaz  and 
General  Baz — Exertions  for  the  release  of  the  Prince — Success  On 
my  arrival  in  Vera  Cruz,  Salm  had  left  with  Baron  Magnus — My. 
despair — Going  to  New  York  and  Washington— On  board  the  '  Ville 
de  Paris' — Arrival  in  Europe. 216 


xii  Contents. 


IN  EUROPE, 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

Biest — First  impressions — A  four-legged  baby — Paris — Castle  Anholt— 
Prince  Alfred — His  family — Our  position — Journey  to  Vienna — 
Audience  with  the  Emperor  of  Austria— Result — Salm  in  the  hands 
of  his  old  enemies — Flight — My  audience  with  the  mother  of  Maxi- 
milian— Her  present — Munich — Countess  Salm-Hoegstraeten — Re- 
turn to  Westphalia — Princess  Minna — Prince  Alfred  dangerously  ill 
— Rheingrafenstein — von  Stein — Meeting  with  Corvins  in  Rorschach 
— Castle  Wiggen — The  Rorschach  Hill — The  Lake  of  Constance — 
Mrs.  Raggebas — Visitors — A  visit  to  Combe  Varin — Professor 
Edward  Desor — Baron  H.  and  wife — A  Russian  Baron  and  his 
daughter — Prince  Hohenzollern — At  the  Weinburg — Off  to  Berlin. 

Page  232 

CHAPTER  XVII. 

Salm's  Diai-y  in  Mexico  published--Prince  Kraflft  Hohen^ohe — Baron 
Magnus — Audience  with  Princess  Charles  of  Prussia — Countess  Seyd- 
ewitz — At  Baroness  Schleinitz's — Salm  Major  in  the  Guards — Audience 
with  Her  Majesty  the  Queen  —  Countess  Schulemburg — Countess 
Benckendorff — Fast  habits — Coblentz — Society  there — The  Prussian 
army — Prussian  officers — The  regiment  '  Queen  Augusta.'        .       251 

CHAPTER  XVIII. 

Our  society — Countess  Haake — In  Berlin  with  the  Corvins — Another 
audience  with  the  Queen — The  King — A  queer  cousin — Prince  Salm- 
Horstmar — A  princely  apostle — Housekeeping  lessons — Mr.  General 
von  S . — Salm's  revolt — I  try  my  hand  at  match-making — Excur- 
sions— Mr.  Moriary — Princess  S W and  her  sons — Mesal- 
liances— A  poetical  friend — Coblentz  life — Publrc  tea-gardens — The 
Oueen  in  Coblentz — Princess  Lie^nitz — 'Uncle  Herrmann' — The 
Grand  Duchess  Dowager  of  Mecklenburg — in  Ems — Their  Majesties 
The  Queen  as  a  godmother — Baron  Gerolt — Why  he  resigned — Mr. 
Bancroft— His  meanness — In  Ems  with  his  Majesty — My  cousin,  the 
Duchess  of  Osuna — Breakfast  with  their  Majesties  at  Sayn — Military 
manoeuvres — Visit  to  Anholt — Prince  and  Princess  of  Weid — A  party 
at  her  Majesty's — Grand  Duchess  of  .Baden  and  Princess  William — A 
ball  at  her  Majesty's — I  dance  with  the  Grand  Duke  of  Weimar — 
Breakfast  at  her  Majesty's- -Dinner  at  Neuweid — Prince  and  Princess 
of  Roumania — The  Count  of  Flanders — Departure  of  the  Queen — 
Christmas  in  Anholt — \  battue — Bitter  reflections.     .         .         .     26-? 


Coaienis.  xiii 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

New  Year — The  '  little  bills  ' — In  a  whirlpool — Onr  new  Colonel,  Count 
Waldersee — In  Berlin — An  evening  party  at  her  JNiajesty's — The 
brother  of  Maximilian — Audience  with  their  Royal  Highnesses  the 
Crown  Prince  and  Crown  Princess — Their  great  kindness — Grand 
Court-day — I  conquer  China — Baroness  Schleinitz — Grand  Opera 
Ball — The   whole    Court    present — Carnival    in    Coblentz — Balls — 

Fancy  Ball  at  Mr.  von  C 's — A  Spanish  Quadrille — Fancy  Ball 

at  General  von  Herwarth's — A  fishy  Quadrille — Mayence — Prince  of 
Holstein — Bonn — Professor  Dr,  Busch — ist  of  April — Studying  in  the 
Hospitals — Salm  promoted — Sad  forebodings — Return  of  the  Queen 
to  Coblentz— Season  in  Ems — The  Duke  of  Ossuna— His  Majesty  the 
Emperor  of  Russia — Princess  Rose  Salm- Salm — An  unpleasant  occur- 
rence— At  Prince  Solms-Braunfels — Thirteen  at  the  table  ! — Our  set 
in  Ems — With  his  Majesty — The  Duchess  of  Ossuna  and  her  train — 
Prince  Albrecht  of  Prussia — Brilliant  misery — Again  in  Bonn — Ru- 
mours in  Ems — Supper  with  the  King— A  Review  in  Ems — Dinner 
at  her  Majesty's  in  Coblentz — A  cafe-dansant — Caught  in  a  shower — 
Arrival  in  Ems — The  King  and  Benedetti — Sensation — Supper  with 
his  Majesty — How  the  King  looked — I  tell  his  Majesty  that  I  shall  go 
with  the  army — Concert  at  the  Swiss  house  in  Coblentz — How  the 
King  and  Queen  were  received — War  declared — Taking  leave  of  his 
Majesty — Affecting  scene — The  King  gives  me  his  photograph — 
Panic  in  Ems — Return  to  Coblentz — The  behaviour  of  the  Germans 
— Leave-taking  of  the  Queen — Approval  of  my  resolution — In 
Bonn — I  receive  a  certificate  from  Professor  Dr.  Busch — In  the  Aula 
— Professor  Dr.  Busch  appointed  Surgeon-General  of  8th  Army  Corps 
— I  am  to  accompany  him — Arrival  of  Colonel  Corvin — Of  Mrs.  von 
Corvin — Of  Princess  Minna  and  Florentine  Salm — Preparations —  . 
Dark  forebodings — A  conversation  between  Salm  and  Corvin — The 
regiment  '  Queen  Augusta'  leaving — Farewell  to  Salm — A  sad  mother 
and  sad  wife Page  214 

CHAPTER  XX. 

My  preparations  for  the  field — Miss  Louisa  Runkel — Leave-taking  in  An- 
holt — Prince  Alfred  and  three  sons  in  the  war — Difficulties  about  a 
horse — I  try  impossibilities — Make  them  possible — With  General  von 
Steinmetz,  chief  of  the  first  army — £n  route — My  defeat — Hermeskeil 
— Treves — Disappointment — Saarlouis — Imprudent  ducks — Henswei- 
ler — Gloious  news — In  a  brewery — Prince  Adalbert  of  Prussia — An 
Admiral  on  dry  land — The  distant  thunder — Of  Spichern— Saarbruck 
— Meeting  Corvin — Entering  on  my  duties — The  starving  French 
prisoners — Confusion — The  battle-field — Arrival  of  the  King  -A  raid 
on  the  Royal  kitchen — Carrying  off  my  booty — Caught  by  his  Majesty 
— My  confusion — In  the  Hospitals — The  i8th  of  August — Fearful 
dreams — Vague    rumours — Starting    for    the    front — Felix    killed— 


xiv  Contents. 

rio  entine  killed — How  my  husband  died — letter  of  Rev.  Mr.  Parmet 
— Letter  of  Salm's  servant — ^ly  vow — Going  on  a  sad  errand — A 
'fearful  night  in  Remilly — Ars  sur-Moselle — A  melancholy  task — 
*  Mother  Simon  ' — How  I  found  my  poor  husband — Bringing  home 
the  bodies — Funeral  in  Anholt — Last  words  of  love.      .     Page  306 

CHAPTER  XXI. 

Returning  to  the  war — In  Cologne — The  Knights  of  St.  John — Baron 
Edward  Oppenheim — In  Jouy-aux- Arches — Voluntary  nurses — Re- 
forms— Gifts  from  Cologne — My  store-rooms — Prince  Alfred — Miss 
Runkel — Shells — Surrender  Metz — Theft — Bad  conscience — A  rude 
doctor — A  princely  box  on  the  ear.   ......     325 

CHAPTER  XXII, 


Marching  orders— Death  of  Count  Waldersee — On  the  march — Lost  on 
the  road — Brabant — In  search  of  quarters — In  a  shepherd's  house — 
How    we    passed    the   night — A   wonderful   snoratorio — Vienne    le 
Chateau — An  ecclesiastical  cat — In  Rheims — Ville  aux  Bois  Jouchery 
— A  Frenchified  German — Madame  la  Baronne  de  vSachs.  Attichy — A 
*  particulier  ' — Compiegne — The  rooms  of  Empress  Eugenie — Monti- 
dier — The  'terrible'  things— Battle  of  Moreuil — Fog — Strange  mis- 
take—Miss Runkel  taken  for  a  '  Protzkasten  ' — ^Jimmy — My  pigeon — 
After  the  battle — General  von  Kummer — Amiens — In  Boves — Colonel 
Cox — The  international  commission — Starting  for  Rouen — La  Feuilie 
— A  sacked  chateau— In  Rouen — Dangerous  looking  people — Visit  to 
General  von  Manteufifel — Leaving  Rouen — Le  Heron— Order  to  pre- 
pare for  battle — The   battle  of  Querriere — Our  Verbandplatz— The 
room   for   the  fatally   wounded — Short   of  provisions — Fed   by    the 
English — My  assistance —Under  fire — Dangerous  curiosity — Rev.  Mr. 
Gross  wounded — End  of  the  battle — Supper  on  the  amputation  table 
— Returning   to    Amiens — A   busy  night— Miss  Runkel's    Samaritan 
work — My  birthday — Count  Luttichau  and  Captain  Voelkel— Tele- 
graphing  for  their   wives — Captain  Voekel's  death — Arrival     f   his 
wife — General  von  Blankensee— His  wife— Plis  death — In  Albert — 
Captain  von  Marien — Bapaume — General  Count  von  der   Goeben — A 
distracted  cook — The  wounded— Captain  von  Butler— Dead— Hospi- 
tal in  the  convent — I  discover  an   old  acquaintance — And  make  the 
acquaintance  of  the  black  small-pox — Returning  to  Amiens — Arrival  of 
ofiicers'  wives — I  fall  ill  with  the  small-pox— Marching  orders— Four 
days  in  bed  only— In  Peronne— General  von  Memerty— My  prophetic 
t.nlents — Three  hundred  wounded   and   nothing   to   eat — Again  our 
English  friends— Prince  ^.Ifred's  exertions— Miss  Runkel's  exhaustion 
—Jimmy  catching  a  Tartar— The  glorious  battle  ot    St.  Quentin— 
Shoes  and  stockings  left  in  the  mud — In    St.   Quentin — The  H6tel 
Cambronne— Adoctorless  private  hospital— Miss  Runkel's  glory — My 
Ive  hundred  boarders — Howl  managed  for  them — Aimistice — Going 
home— Acknowledgments — General  von  Manteuffel  proposing  me  for 


Contentp,.  x^ 

the  iron  cross — Thanks  in   the   naine  of  tlie   1st  army  by  letter  ol 
General  von  Goeben — Letter  of  General  von  Fransecky.    .    Pai^e  335 

CHAPTER  XXIII. 

Going  to  Germany — In  Anholt — My  husband's  debts — Different  views — 
Returning  to  my  deserted  home — Sympathisers — Pestered  to  death — 
A  last  appeal  to  a  brother — A  princely  answer — What  I  resolved  to 
do — Baron  Edward  Oppenheim — Going  to  Berlin — A  private  audience 
with  his  Majesty  the  Emperor — What  happened  in  it — General  von 
Treskow — My  offer  accepted — Audience  with  my  gracious  Empress — 
Moving  to  the  Augusta  hospital — Noble  nurses — Visit  of  Emperor 
and  Empress — A  present  from  Her  Majesty — Lost — Called  home — • 
Moving  to  Bonn — Persecutions — A  forged  signature — Law  suit — My 
health  failing — In  Luzcrn — Going  to  Clarence — To  Pisa — To  Naples 
— Eruption  of  Mount  Vesuvius — 1  want  lo  see  it  very  near — Jimmy's 
distress — Pompeii.   .;.......     362 

CHAPTER  XXIV. 

I  want  to  enter  a  convent — Applying  to  the  Empress — Letter  of  Count 

Annin — A  card  from  Baron  S to  the  German  minister  in  Rome — 

In  Rome — Count  Brazier  de  St.  Simon — His  portrait — His  mixtum 
compositum  wme — His  hobby-horse — I  make  an  impression  on  the 
old  diplomatist — Eftects — Seeing  San  Angelo — The  Prison  of  Ben- 
venuto  Cellini — Causing  the  death  of  the  old  Count — Monsignore 
Merode — Two  audiences  with  the  Pope — Declares  that  I  have  no 
talent  lor  a  nunnery — Private  .nasE  by  Monsignore  Merode  at  the 
grave  ol  San  Pietro — Presents  iiom  the  Pope — A  once  celelirated 
lady  and  pretended  princess — Rev..  Joseph  Mulloly — The  Chuich  Ui 
St.  Clement  and  its  subterranean  wonders — What  called  me  home — 
Invitation  to  Rostock  in  Mecklenburg — In  Wamemunde — Grand  Duke 
and  Grand  Duchess  o\  Mecklenburg-  -The  '  Stromlahrt ' — Festival — 
Curious  War.are — Called  home  again — Bad  health — In  Scheveningen 
— An  American  gold  uncle — Change  01  affairs — I  buy  a  house  in 
Bonn — Have  rented  it  to  Baron  Gerolt — Journey  to  Spain — Madrid — 

Count  W A  river  without  water — The  palace  ot  the  Duke  of 

Ossuna — Invested  by  the  Philistines — The  picture  gallery — The  Arm- 
oury— Curious  armour,  &c. — The  Theatres — A  characteristic  adventure 
— In  the  Prado — Duchess  de  la  Torre — Serrano — Queen  Isabella — 
Victor  Amadeus — The  attentate — Disturbed  state — Returning  to  Bonn 
— A  few  last  words — End  of  the  book.     ,         ,         ,         ,         .     373 


BOOK  I. 


IN  TPIE  UNITED  STATES, 


CHAPTER   I 

Some  Words  to  the  Reader— The  War  Excitement  in  the  United  States— 
The  falling  and  the  rising  Military  Stars — McClellan  Commander-in- 
Chief — Organizing  the  Army — His  first  Review — Visit  to  Washington 
— Visiting  the  Camp — General  Louis  Blenker — German  Refugees — • 
Prince  Felix  zu  Salm-Salm — What  happened  to  him  and  to  me — The 
old,  old  Story — End  of  the  chapter,  and  turning  a  new  leaf. 

I  SHALL  not  follow  my  diary  day  for  day.  Such  a  proceeding 
would  only  produce  tedious  repetitions,  and  extend  my  book, 
to  an  unjustifiable  length.  I  do  not  pretend  to  write  history  ; 
I  shall  give  only  my  personal  experiences,  and  though  trying 
my  best  to  judge  ^^ersons  and  events  impartially,  I  am  doubt- 
ful whether  I  shall  succeed,  as  very  wise  philosophers  assert 
that  in  women  subjective  feeling  prevails  over  objective  reason 
— in  a  word,  that  their  heart  is  always  running  away  with  their 
brain.  As  I  cannot  help  being  a  woman,  I  beg  the  reader  to 
excuse,  on  the  ground  of  this  deplorable  fact,  opinions  and 
views  perhaps  differing  from  his  own. 

I  am  not  writing  my  biography  either,  and  I  am  therefore 
dispensed  from  the  necessity  of  describing  my  cradle,  the 
emotions  I  experienced  in  admiring  my  first  pair  of  shoes,  and 
of  dissecting  my  soul  for  the  amusement  of  some  curious 
people.  I  confess  it  affords  me  even  a  malicious  pleasure  to 
disappoint,  in  this  respect,  a  number  of  persons  who  for  years 
have  taken  the  trouble  of  inventing  the  most  romantic  and 
wonderful  stories  in  reference  to  my  youth,  taxing  their  fancy 
to  the  utmost  to  take  revenge  on  me  for  my  silence. 

There  are,  indeed,  people  who  resent  it  as  an  offence  if  a 
person  who,  by  chance  or  peculiar  circumstances,  has  been 
raised  on  the  platform  of  publicity,  does  not  choose  to  show 
herself  in  the  garb  of  an  antique  statue  ;  and  who,  as  a  cause 
for  such  disinclination,  attribute  to  her  some  physical  or  moral 


t.' 


20  Ten  Years  of  my  Life. 

deformities.  May  they  do  so';  their  benevolent  sunpositions 
will  not  induce  me  to  dispel  by  plain  and  dry  reality  the  roman- 
tic cloud  in  which  they  have  wrapped  my  youth.  It  would, 
indeed,  be  cruel  and  ungrateful  to  novelists  and  dramatic 
poets  who  have  made  me  the  heroine  of  their  most  wonderful 
and  fanciful  works,  to  disenchant  their  public  !  I  therefore 
shall  jump  right  into  the  middle  of  my  narrative. 

The  great  American  civil  war  had  commenced,  the  first  bat- 
tle of  Bull  Run  had  taken  place,  and  the  whole  American 
world  was  in  an  incredible  fever  of  excitement.  It  was  in  the 
Fall  of  1 86 1,  and  having  returned  from  Cuba,  tvhere  I  had 
lived  several  years,  I  was  with  a  married  sister  in  New  York. 
Het  husband  was  an  officer  in  the  army,  and  all  occurrences 
connected  with  it  and  the  war  were  eagerly  discussed  in  our 
lamily. 

Old  General  Scott,  who  once  had  earned  cheap  laurels  in 
Mexico,  and  v/as  thought  a  very  great  general,  had  proved  that 
he  was  none,  and  the  hopes  set  on  McDowell  had  collapsed 
at  Bull  Run.  The  people  had,  however,  already  found  a  new 
idol  in  General  McCleilan,  who  was  placed  at  the  head  of  the 
forces  of  the  Union.  Before  having  had  an  opportunity  of 
doing  much  he  was  praised  and  worshipped  as  if  he  had  won 
a  hundred  battles,  and  whoever  would  not  believe  that  little 
Mac  was  an  American  Napoleon  was  in  danger  of  being  called 
a  '  coj)perhead.'  When  he  really  had  done  much,  and  shown 
himself  to  be  the  best  amongst  all  the  dikttd?ite  gi^ntxdXs  oi  the 
Northern  Union,  kc  was  called  a  copperhead  himself. 

At  that  time  I  am  speaking  of  he  was,  as  said  before,  the 
great  military  star  of  the  North,  and  was  engaged  in  organis- 
ing an  army,  having  discovered  after  Bull  Run  that  an  undi- 
sciplined, enthusiastic,  though  radical,  army  is  nothing  but  an 
armed  mob.  Recruiting  was  briskly  carried  on  in  New  York  ; 
everywhere  the  goose-step  was  practised  under  the  superinten- 
dence of  officers  whose  faces  one  had  seen  quite  recently 
behind  counters  and  bars.  The  centre  of  public  interest  and 
curiosity  was,  however,  Wasliington,  and  the  trains  between 
that  capital  and  the  metropolis  were  always  crowded. 

McCleilan  hurried  his  organisation  as  much  as  possible,  and 
knowing  very  well  his  sovereign  people,  he  resolved  to  offer 
them  some  military  spectacle  to  satisfy  their  impatience  and 
curiosity.     A  great  review  of  newly-formed  cavalry  was  to  take 


llevieiu  at   WasJvmgtoii.  21 

place  near  Washington,  and  great  numbers  of  New  York  peo- 
ple were  anxious  to  witness  such  rare  show.  I  was  as  eager 
and  enthusiastic  as  the  rest,  and  arrived  with  a  numerous  com- 
pany of  ladies  and  gentlemen  in  Washington. 

That  city  was  not  yet  what  it  is  now.  It  is  called  '  The  city 
of  magnificent  distances,'  and  with  very  good  reason.  It  was 
laid  out  for  a  million  of  inhabitants,  but  had,  however,  only 
about  eighty  thousand,  though  this  number  was  then  more  than 
doubled  by  a  floating  population.  The  city,  notwithstanding 
some  splentlid  public  buildings,  most  of  them  still  in  construc- 
tion, like  the  Capitol,  resembled  a  very  big  village,  and  Penn- 
sylvania Avenue,  the- principal  street,  which  is  wider  than  the 
Linden  in  Berlin,  was  still  in  possession  of  pigs  and  cattle, 
which  during  the  night  slept  on  the  sidewalks,  even  near  Lafay- 
ette Square,  opposite  the  White  House,  '  Father  Abraham's ' 
residence.  The  tramway  was  not  laid  until  much  later,  and 
along  the  street  there  still  rolled  a  most  primitive  omnibus. 

Military  enthusiasm  was  paramount  in  Washington.  The 
ladies,  of  course,  were  not  left  untouched  by  the  prevailing 
epidemic ;  in  fact,  they  were  more  excited  than  the  men,  and 
not  being  permitted  to  enlist  themselves  they  did  their  utmost 
to  encourage  the  nascent  heroes.  Civilians  had  then  little 
chance  with  them.  Apollo  himself  would  have  passed  unno- 
ticed if  he  did  not  wear  shoulder-straps.  He  who  has  not 
witnessed  this  military  fever  will  scarcely  believe  it.  All  laws 
of  society  seemed  suspended,  and  what  in  peaceable  times 
would  have  been  considered  very  improper  and  shocking  was 
then  the  order  of  the  day.  Both  sexes  seemed  to  have  changed 
places. 

The  review  had  an  immense  success,  though  it  was,  in  fact, 
A  pitiful  affair — as  I  am  enabled  to  judge  now  after  having  seen 
Prussian  Uhlans  and  Hussars.  The  Union  cavalry  that 
time  were  w^orse  than  useless.  The  poor  fellows  did  not  know 
whether  their  horses  or  their  swords  were  mure  in  their  way, 
and  I  saw  them  fall  from  their  saddles  even  at  a  walking  pace. 
Of  all  these  deficiencies  we  were  not  aware.  I  was  quite 
bewildered  by  the  perfectly  new  spectacle,  for  I  was  as  favour- 
ably disposed  towards  the  uniform  as  other  ladies. 

To  visit  the  camps  around  Washington  was  then  the  fashion, 
and  one  day  after  the  review  our  party  set  out  for  such  an  ex- 
cursion.    The  camo   of    the  Gennan   Division   was  at   that 


22  Ten   Years  of  my  Life, 

period  the  principal  point  of  attraction.  This  division  was 
commanded  by  General  Louis  ^l^lenker,  wlio  was  then  a  great 
favourite  with  all  the  authorities  and  the  people.  The  '  Dutch ' 
did  not  at  that  time  take  the  position  in  America  which  they 
now  occupy.  They  were  looked  upon  with  a  half-shrug  of  the 
shoulders,  and  a  not  very  flattering  half-smile.  True  Yankees 
despised  them,  and  the  military  commanders  were  not  much 
inclined  to  allow  them  prominent  places.  When  McDowell 
was  leading  his  armed  mob  towards  Bull  Run  he  placed  the 
German  Division  in  the  rear,  far  from  the  field  of  his  supposed 
glnry.  When  the  panic  commenced,  which  '  Bull  Run  Rus- 
sell' has  described  too  graphically  and  truly  for 'the  American 
taste,  the  stolid  Germans,  and  especially  Blenker,  could  not 
d'scover  any  sensible  reason  for  runnmg  away.  He  let  the 
panic-stricken  Americans  pass  and  stood  his  ground,  waiting 
for  an  attack.  This  did  not  take  place,  for  though  the  much- 
dreaded  *  Black  Horse  '  of  the  Confederates  appeared  in  view, 
they  did  not  like  the  attitude  of  the  '  Dutch '  and  retired, 
leaving  behind  some  forsaken  Union  artillery,  which  was 
quietly  taken  back  by  Colonel  von  Steinwehr  of  Blenker's  divi- 
sion. Washington  was  saved,  saved  by  Blenker  and  these  con- 
founded Dutch  ! 

The  Americans  exaggerate  everything,  and  so  it  was  in  tliis 
case.  The  danger  had  been  too  evident,  and  it  served  them 
as  a  measure  for  Blenker's  merit.  The  General  himself  did 
not  overrate  it,  but  was  sensible  enough  to  profit  by  this  tem- 
porary tide  of  popular  favour.  President  Lincoln,  who  under- 
stood nothing  of  military  matters,  but  much  of  the  danger 
which  he  escaped,  felt  extremely  thankful  towards  the  General 
and  the  Germans,  whom  he  already  had  good  reason  to  like 
well,  as  they  had  done  a  great  deal  to  raise  him  to  the  place 
which  he  occupied.  McClellan,  who  liked  the  military  chic  of 
Blenker  and  the  discipline  in  his  division,  was  very  favourably 
disposed  towards  him,  and  a  frequent  visitor  in  his  hospitable 
quarters,  which  made  American  generals  jealous. 

The  German  division,  consisting  of  about  twelve  thousand 
men,  had  been  renioved  from  the  environs  of  Rodgers'  Mills 
to  the  Virginian  side  of  the  Potomac,  and  was  encamped  be- 
tween that  river  and  a  place  called  Hunter's  Chapel. 

It  was  a  fine  day  when  our  party  drove  over  the  Potomac 
Bridge,  which  at  that  time  was  for  miles  the  only  communica- 


Visit  to  BlenJcer,  23 

tion  between  Virginia  and  the  District  of  Washington.  It  is 
exactly  an  English  mile  long,  built  of  wood,  and  rather  narrow. 
From  the  bridge  one  looks,  towards  the  right,  on  Georgetown, 
a  suburb  of  the  capital,  and  on  Arlington  Heights,  on  the 
Virginian  side,  a  hill  on  the  top  of  which  is  picturesquely 
situated  the  stately- looking  former  residence  of  General  Lee, 
the  Commander-in-Chief  of  the  Confederates.  To  the  left  are, 
projecting  into  the  lake-like  Potomac,  the  Arsenal  and  Navy- 
yard,  and  on  the  Virginian  side,  nearly  out  of  view,  is  the  town 
of  Alexandria. 

To  the  left,  not  far  from  the  bridge,  we  noticed  a  striking 
monument  of  old  General  Scott's  military  imbecility,  one  of 
the  three  blockhouses  which  he  had  built  on  the  Virginian 
shore  of  the  rivers,  and  which  he  thought  sufficient  for  the 
defence  of  Washington  !  The  blockhouse,  not  larger  than  a 
peasant's  house,  was  roughly  constructed  of  logs,  and  alto- 
gether a  most  miserable  and  ridiculous  concern,  which  might 
have  served  as  an  abode  for  a  company  sent  out  against  the 
Indians  in  the  Western  wilderness.  McClellan  had  already 
commenced  the  construction  of  numerous  forts  around  the 
city,  and  that  next  the  bridge  which  we  had  to  pass  was  called, 
I  think.  Fort  Albany. 

Not  far  from  it,  to  the  right  and  left  of  the  turnpike-road 
leading  to  Fairfax  and  Centreville,  extended  the  camp  of  the 
German  division.  It  was  laid  out  in  the  German  fashion,  the 
tents  standing  in  rows,  each  regiment  separated  from  the  other. 
The  lanes  between  them  were  ornamented  with  recently  plant- 
ed fir  or  cedar  trees,  and  the  whole  made  a  very  friendly  and 
even  grand  impression,  especially  to  us,  who  had  never  seen  a 
similar  thing  before. 

The  General  received  us  in  the  most  cordial  and  polite 
manner,  surrounded  by  his  splendid  staff. 

He  was  a  man  about  whom  I  heard,  both  in  Europe  and 
America,  the  most  unjust  and  undeserved  judgments,  and  I 
am  anxious  to  profit  by  this  opportunity  to  pay  a  debt  of  grati- 
tude to  this  most  excellent  man,  though  his  noble  and  kind 
heart  was  broken  long  ago,  and  my  endeavours  will  avail  him 
nothing. 

Louis  Blenker  was,  I  think,  from  Worms ;  I  know,  at  least, 
that  he  was  domiciled  there  before  the  breaking  out  of  the 
German  revolution  in  1848.     After  having  served  in  the  Bava- 


24  Ten   Years  of  my  Life. 

rian  army  and  in  Greece,  he  became  a  wine  merchant.  He 
took  part  in  the  German  reviDlutfon,  and  with  a  corps  of  his 
own  he  made  an  attempt  against  the  fortress  of  Landau,  in 
which  he  was  wounded.  When,  in  1849,  the  Bavarian  Palati- 
nate made  common  cause  with  revolutionized  Baden,  he  com- 
manded, as  colonel,  a  corps,  and  retired  like  Sigel  and  the  rest 
of  the  popular  army  to  Switzerland,  whence  he  emigrated  to 
America.  He  bought  there  a  farm  near  Rockville,  in  the  State 
of  New  York,  and  when  the  American  war  broke  out  he  made 
up  a  regiment  (the  8th  of  New  York)  and  commanded  it  as 
colonel. 

When  I  became  acquainted  with  the  General  he  must  have 
been  near  his  fiftieth  year.  He  was  a  fine  man,  about  five  feet 
ten  inches  high,  broad  in  the  shoulders,  and  with  an  elegant 
figure  and  bearing.  His  weather  beaten  face  must  have  been 
handsome  once,  and  was  still  agreeable. 

Though  a  democrat,  he  had  decidedly  aristocratic  inclina- 
tions, and  a  foible  for  noble  names.  In  his  staff  were  many 
noblemen  of  well  known  families,  and  it  was  noticed  that  he 
treated  them  with  more  reserve  than  others,  never  using  offen- 
sive language  to  them.  His  officers,  however,  overlooked  his 
unpleasant  peculiarities  for  his  sterling  good  qualities  ;  he  was 
very  generous  and  liberal,  and  a  reliable,  self-sacrificmg,  disin- 
terested friend. 

His  military  experience  was  not  great ;  he  knew  very  little, 
if  anything,  of  higher  tactics  or  strategy  ;  but  he  was  extremely 
brave,  and  nobody  understood  better  than  he  how  to  represent 
a  military  chief — surrounding  himself  with  all  the  military 
pomp  of  a  high  commanding  general  as  he  had  seen  it  in 
Europe,  and  resembling  half  a  Prussian  commanding  general, 
half  a  Turkish  pasha. 

In  this  he  differed  much  from  the  American  generals,  whose 
free  and  easy  manner  and  indifference  in  regard  to  outward 
dignity  formed  a  striking  contrast  to  Blenker,  whose  deport- 
ment, however,  pleased  the  Americans,  as  something  new. 

It  is  astonishing  how  many  Garman  noblemen  found  it 
necessary  to  go  out  of  the  way  of  European  difficulties,  and 
seek  a  refuge  in  the  United  States.  The  Prussian  and  Austrian 
army  furnished  a  considerable  conUngent  of  shipwrecked  ofii- 
cers,  who  mostly  had  to  run  away  before  their  creditors,  or 
who  escaped  the  consequences  of  some  duel,  breach  of  disci- 


Emigrants.  25 

pline,  if  not  of  some  less  pardonable  sins.  The  salt  water 
flowing  between  Europe  and  America  was,  however,  supposed 
to  wash  off  all  European  impurities.  Nobody  cared  how  one 
had  sinned  in  the  old  country  as  long  as  he  behaved  in  a  man- 
ner which  was  thought  proper  in  America. 

New  York  and  other  large  cities  were  teeming  with  characters 
of  that  kind,  and  their  position  before  the  war  had  been  a  very 
precarious  one.  Their  military  knowledge  was  not  of  the  slight- 
est use  to  them  in  America  ;  and  the  social  prejudices,  preten- 
sions, and  views  which  they  brought  with  them  were  the 
principal  impediments  to  their  success.  Many  perished  mis- 
erably because  they  could  not  renounce  them  ;  others  only 
commenced  to  get  on  when  the  direst  necessity  had  compelled 
them  to  work.  Those  acted  most  wisely  who  at  once  resolved 
to  earn  their  living,  in  whatever  honest  manner,  not  consider- 
ing whether  their  occupation  was  in  accordance  with  the  posi- 
tion they  had  held  in  Europe.  ''>\'ork  does  not  dislionour  in 
America,  but  a  life  of  idleness  does. 

The  revolutions  of  1848  and  1849  brought  numbers  of  refu- 
gees from  Oermany  to  America,  and  they  were  found  not  only 
in  the  cities  of  the  East,  but  almost  everywhere  in  the  United 
States  ;  and  it  cannot  be  denied  that  this  emigration  had  a 
great  and,  I  think,  salutary  influence  on  the  German  element 
in  America,  for  amongst  these  refugees  were  many  distiuguished 
men,  though  also  a  great  number  of  blackguards,  who  are 
always  to  be  found  in  the  wake  of  revolutions.  New  York 
especially  was  crowded  with  this  latter  class  of  people. 

The  outbreak  of  the  war  was  a  godsend  to  most  of  the  ship- 
wrecked Germans,  especially  to  tiiose  from  Prussia,  as  all  of 
them  had  been  soldiers,  and  even  the  most  iuiperfect  know- 
ledge of  military  things  was  then  of  the  highest  value  to  the 
Americans,  who  understood  notr.ing  at  all  of  them.  '  In  the 
land  of  the  blind  the  one-eyed  is  king.'  Prussian  corporals 
became  high  offlcers,  and  those  who  understood  how  to  strike 
the  iron  whilst  it  was  red-hot  could  rise  to  the  highest  military 
honours.  - 

The  military  chiefs  of  the  German  revolution,  whose  impor- 
tance and  military  talents  were  greatly  exaggerated  and  mostly 
overrated  by  their  countrymen,  rose  at  once  to  high  places,  as 
the  American  Government  acknowledged  the  military  rank 
they  had   held  in  the  revolution,  as   had   been   done  also  in 


2G  Ten   Years  of  my  Life. 

England  at  the  breaking  out  of  the  Crimean  war.  General 
Sigel  had  a  command  in  th^  West,  and  Blenker  commanded 
the  German  division  in  the  East. 

I  shall  have  later  an  opportunity  of  speaking  of  the  persons 
belonging  to  Blenker's  staff  and  corps,  and  return  from  this 
digression  to  the  tent  of  the  General. 

We  had  not  been  long  there  when  we  heard  the  sentinels 
present  arms,  and  the  curtain  at  the  entrance  of  the  tent  was 
thrown  back.  An  officer  entered,  returning  from  an  inspection 
of  the  outposts,  reporting  to  the  General,  who  then  presented 
him  to  the  ladies  as  the  chief  of  his  staff. — Co/onei  Prince  Salm. 

The  Prince  was  then  a  man  of  thirty  years.  He  was  of 
middle  height,  had  an  elegant  figure,  dark  hair,  light  mous- 
tache, and  a  very  agreeable  handsome  face,  the  kind  and 
modest  expression  of  which  was  highly  prepossessing.  He 
had  very  fine  dark  eyes,  which,  however,  seemed  not  to  be 
very  good,  as  he  had  to  use  a  glass,  which  he  perpetually  wore 
in  his  right  eye,  managing  it  with  all  the  skill  of  a  Prussian 
officer  of  the  guard. 

Though  the  movements  of  the  Prince  were  elegant  and 
pleasant,  he  could  not  get  rid  of  a  certain  bashfulness  or 
embarrassment,  which,  however,  did  not  make  him  appear 
awkward,  but  which  prejudiced  the  ladies  in  his  favour  far 
more  than  boldness  and  assurance  in  his  demeanour  would 
have  done.  In  speaking,  even  to  gentlemen,  the  Prince  had 
always  a  smiling,  pleasant  expression,  and  one  could  see  at 
once  that  he  was  an  extremely  modest,  kind-hearted  man. 

I  felt  particularly  attracted  by  the  face  of  the  Prince,  and  it 
was  evident  that  my  face  had  the  same  effect  on  him.  He 
addressed  me  in  his  polite,  and  smiling  manner,  but,  alas,  he 
did  not  speak  one  word  of  English,  and  as  I  did  not  under- 
stand either  German  or  French,  and  only  very  imperfectly 
Spanish,  of  which  he  had  some  superficial  knowledge,  our 
conversation  would  have  been  very  unsatisfactory  without  the 
assistance  of  the  more  universal  language  of  the  eyes,  which 
both  of  us  understood  much  better. 

Prince  Felix  zu  Salm-Salm  was  a  younger  son  of  the  reign- 
ing Prince  zu  Salm-Salm,  whose  now  mediatized  principality 
is  situated  in  Westphalia,  belonging  to  Prussia.  The  capital 
of  this  principality  is  Bocholt,  but  the  family  are  now  residing 
in  the  town  of  Anholt,  where  they  have  a  very  fine  old  castle. 


The  Family  of  Prince  Sahn-tSalm.  27 

The  Salms  belong  to  one  of  the  oldest  dynastic  families  of 
Germany.  Of  its  many  branches  that  of  Salm-Salm  is  the 
principal  line. 

The  father  of  the  Prince  was  a  very  kind  and  excellent  man, 
whose  memory  is  still  blessed  by  his  former  subjects.  He  was 
also  a  very  indulgent  father,  and  as  Felix  was  rather  his  favour- 
ite son  he  was  always  very  generous  to  him,  and  perhaps  too 
lenient.  Being  rich,  he  supplied  him  always  with  ample  means, 
and  the  consequence  was  that  the  young  Prince  became  rathe: 
extravagant  in  his  habits,  never  learning  the  value  of  money. 

Still  very  young,  Prince  Felix  was  made  an  officer,  and  served 
in  the  cavalry.  In  the  Holstein  war  he  distinguished  himself 
by  his  bravery,  especially  in  the  battle  of  Aarhuis,  where  he 
was  left  with  seven  wounds  on  the  battle-field,  and  made  in 
that  state  a  prisoner  by  the  Danes.  The  King  of  Prujsia  re- 
warded his  bravery  by  sending  him  a  sword  of  honour,  which 
distinction  he  rated  higher  than  any  other  he  received  after- 
wards. 

The  family  of  Salm-Salm  are  Catholics,  and  though  they 
have  become  subjects  oi  the  Crown  of  Prussia,  they,  like  other 
Catholic  princely  families  or  those  parts,  observe  the  practice 
of  sending  their  members  not  only  to  the  Prussian  but  also  the 
Austrian  army. 

Though  his  gracious  Majesty,  the  prc^^ent  Emperor  of  Ger- 
many, kindly  tried  to  dissuade  Prince  Felix  Irom  taking  such  a 
step,  other  influences  unfortunately  prevailed  ;  he  resigned  his 
place  in  the  Prussian  army,  and  entered  that  of  Austria. 

The  old  Prince  zu  Salm-Salm  died,  and  his  eldest  son 
Alfred,  the  present  reigning  prince,  became  his  successor. 
Prince  Felix  was  handsomely  provided  for,  but  being  very 
young  and  improvident,  he  lived  in  Vienna  in  an  extravagant 
manner,  which  very  soon  exhausted  his  means,  and  delivered 
him  over  to  the  tender  mercy  of  sharpers  and  money  lenders, 
who  always  are  very  eager  to  oblige  young  reckless  and  thought- 
less noblemen  belonging  to  families  reputed  as  rich.  Not  used 
to  penury,  the  Prince,  accustomed  to  satisiy  all  his  wishes, 
signed  every  paper  laid  before  him,  even  without  reading  it,  if 
he  only  got  some  money  ;  and  he  told  me  that  he  not  rarely 
accepted  bills  to  a  large  amount  which  were  presented  and 
paid,  though  he  had  never  received  a  penny  for  them. 


28  Ten   Years  of  my  Life. 

The  family  of  the  Prince  was  of  course  not  willing  to  pay 
such  recklessly  contracted  jjebts.  The  position  of  the  young 
spendthrift  in  Vienna  became  at  last  too  hot  ;  he  went  first  to 
Paris,  and  at  last  to  America,  where  he  arrived  in  1861,  after 
the  outbreak  of  the  war,  provided  with  letters  of  recommenda- 
tion from  the  Crown  Prince  of  Prussia  to  the  Prussian  Minister 
at  Washington,  Baron  von  Gerolt  zur  Leyen. 

Baron  von  Gerolt  had  been  in  Washington,  I  believe,  since 
1846.  He  was  well  acquainted  with  all  leading  American  men, 
who  all  respected  him  highly,  both  as  a  diplomatist  and  gentle- 
man. No  minister  of  any  Power  had  at  that  time  more  influ- 
ence than  tlie  Baron,  who  was  the  intubate  friend  of  Mr.  W.  H. 
Seward,  the  American  Secretary  of  State.  Baron  Gerolt  is  a 
very  kind-hearted  man,  and  many  Germans,  not  only  Prussians, 
whose  ministers  or  charges  d'affaires  were  too  indifferent  to 
trouble  themselves  about  poor  people,  obtained  advice  and 
help  from  Baron  Gerolt,  who  even  assisted  political  refugees, 
though  he  was  very  far  from  approving  their  political  views. 

The  Baron,  following  his  instructions,  and  still  more  the 
prompting  ot  his  kind  heart,  did  all  he  could  for  the  Prince, 
and  in  consequence  of  this  he  found  everywhere  a  very  kind 
reception.  Though  rep'iblicans,  the  American  people  were  no 
enemies  to  princes  ;  and  knowing  them  only  from  fairy  tales 
and  novels,  they  entertained  about  tliem  the  most  wonderful 
ideas.  A  live  prince  was  an  object  of  great  interest  to  both 
gentlemen  and  ladies,  and  though  pretending  not  to  care  for 
titles,  American  ladies  make  always  a  great  fuss  about  a  prince, 
a  count,  or  a  lord. 

The  modest  Prince  was  quite  terrified  when  he  was  oft'ercd 
the  command  of  a  brigade  of  cavalry,  which  he,  however,  de- 
clined, because  he  did  not  understand  the  language,  which  was 
indeed  a  great  drawback.  He  expressed  a  wish  to  serve  with 
his  countrymen,  and  General  Blenker  was  glad  to  receive  him 
as  the  chief  of  his  staff.  Maybe  that  the  old  German  Freis- 
chiirltr  felt  flattered  to  have  a  German  prince  under  his  com- 
mand. 

I  need  not  tell  a  love  story.  Everybodv  has  experienced 
similar  emotions,  and  my  affair  did  not  differ  from  the  usual 
course.  When  I  left  General  Blenker's  camp  I  left  behind  an 
enamoured  Prince,  whose  feelings  were  far  from  being  indif- 
ferent to  me.  We  saw  each  other  again  ;  the  sweet  malady 
increased,  and  the  Prince  proposed. 


/ 


DisDiissal  of  Blenkefs  Staff.         >  2-3 


*  That  you  are  a  prince  shall  be  no  inipediment  to  your  suc- 
cess with  us/  said  President  Lincoln,  with  a  smile  to  Salm, 
when  he  expressed  his  fear  that  this  hereditary  imperfection 
might  be  prejudicial  to  his  progress  in  a  republic  ;  with  me  it 
certainly  proved  no  impediment.  An  ample  fortune  to  gild 
the  noble  escutcheon  would  have  been  none  either  ;  nor  was  it 
his  poverty,  for  I  did  not  love  the  Prince,  I  loved  the  lovable 
man. 

Some  poets  say  that  love  is  a  madness,  and  as  I  believe  'n 
poets  I  suppose  they  are  not  far  wrong,  for  in  this  state  things 
are  done  at  which  common  sense  smiles,  if  it  does  not  frown  : 
sensible  people,  therefore,  will  not  blame  the  Prince  for  pro- 
posing a  private  marriage,  and  that  I  did  not  resist  too  hard 
his  entreaties. 

We  were    married  on  August  30,   1862,   in    St.    Patrick's 
Church,  F  Street,  Washington,  by  Father  Walter,  according  to 
the  rites  of  the  Catholic  Church,  for  both  of  us  were  Catholics. 
Witness  to  this  holy  ceremony  was  our  intimate  friend  Colo- 
nel von  Corvin,  whose  name  is  well  known  in  Germany,  Eng- 
land, and  America.     He  had  been  one  of  the  military  leaders 
in  the  German  revolution  of  1848  and  '49,  and  having  bom- 
barded the  town  of  Ludwigshafen  and  defended  the  fortress  of 
Rastatt  against  the  Prussians,  assisting  the  Grand  Duke  of  Ba- 
den, thus  covering  the  retreat  of  the  revolutionary   army  into 
Switzerland,  he  was  condemned  to  be  shot,  but  saved  by  a 
concurrence  of  favourable  circumstances.     He  was,  however, 
confined  for  six  years  in  a  solitary  cell  of  a  penitentiary,  and, 
when  he  was  still  persecuted  after  his  liberation  in   1855,  he 
retired  to  England,  where  he  lived  as  a  refugee  until  1861, 
when  he  went  to  America  as  a  special  correspondent  of  the 
Augsburg  Allo^emeine  Zeitimg  and  the  London  limes.     When 
General  Blenker  learnt  the  arrival  of  his  much-tried  old  com- 
rade from   Baden,   he  paid  him   at  once  a  visit  at  Willard's 
Hotel  in  Washington,  accompanied  by  his  whole  staff.     On 
this  occasion  the  Prince  became  acquainted  with  Corvin,  who 
was  then  forty-nine  years  old.     As  the  autobiography  of  the 
Colonel  has  been  published,  both  in  the  German  and  English 
languages,  I  need  not  say  more  about  him  now.     Salm  felt 
great   confidence  in  the   Colonel,  and  liked  him  very  much. 
Both  became  much  attached  to  each  other,  and  remained  true 
friends  all  these  years. 


30  ,  Ten  Years  qj  my  Lije. 

Summer  and  autumn  passed  among  events  of  some  im- 
portance, and  Salm  was  still  in  Washington.  Several  officers 
of  Blenker's  staff  had  been  dismissed  already ;  and  one  day  we 
were  told  by  knowing  friends  that  the  dismissal  of  the  Prince  ' 
had  been  resolved  on  b/  Stanton,  and  that  he  might  expect 
official  notice  every  moment. 

Under   these  circumstances  prompt  action  was  required. 
The  only  step  that  could  save  him  was  to  procure  at  once  the 
command  of  a  regiment  in  the  field  from  sopie  governor  before  ^ 
this  official  notice  was  given,  and  for  this  purpose  we  stp'"'-^'^ 
direcily  for  New  York  and  Albany, 


:J1 


CHAPTER  II. 

Who  cjoverns  the  United  States  ? — How  it  is  done — Trying  my  wings — 
Senator  Harris — Albany — Governor  Morgan,  the  woman  hater — My 
first  battle— Victory— Salm,  Colonel  of  the  8th  N.  Y.  Regiment- 
Arrival  in  Aldy — Breaking  up  a  camp — Ride  to  Chantilly— The 
country-seat  of  a  Royal  Stuart, 

During  the  absence  of  my  husband  in  the  field  I  had  remained, 
in  Washington,  to  which  place  my  sister  had  removed,  whose 
husband  was  employed  there.  Salm  and  I  kept  up  a  most 
lively  correspondence,  of  course  in  English,  of  which  he  had 
acquired  some  knowledge.  In  fact  we  wrote  to  each  other 
every  day,  but,  owing  to  the  irregularity  of  the  mails,  and  the 
frequent  interruptions  of  communication,  we  remained  some- 
times very  long  without  any  news  from  each  other.  I  received 
once  sixteen  of  his  letters  at  the  same  time. 

It  is  said  that  ladies  have  a  very  great  influence  in  the  United 
States,  and  I  think  it  is  so.  I  suppose,  however,  that  it  is 
more  or  less  the  case  everywhere,  for  everywhere  men  are  at 
the  head  of  affairs,  and  everywhere  the  strong  sex  are  weak. 

I  might  say  a  good  deal  about  this  influence,  and  the  manner, 
means,  and  ways  in  which  it  is  gained,  maintained,  and  used  ; 
but  for  what  purpose  should  I  do  so  ?  The  ladies  are  in  the 
secret,  and  if  the  men  do  not  know  it,  they  may  be  satisfied 
with  the  frequently  quoted  saying  that  '  ignorance  is  bliss.' 

A  reason  why  the  influence  of  ladies  in  America  is  even 
greater  than  in  other  countries  may  perhaps  be  that  they  are  as 
a  rule  very  pretty  and  clever,  and  that  they  understand  better 
how  to  control  their  hearts  than  is  said  to  be  the  case  in  other 
parts  of  the  world.  To  keep  the  heart  cool  is,  I  suppose,  the 
key  to  the  American  ladies'  secret.. 


Ten   Years  of  my  Life. 

These  have,  however,  an  advantage  over  their  sisters  of  other 
nations  which  is  of  the  greatest  weight ;  for,  to  outbalance  the 
disadvantage  that  American  gentlemen  are  not  quite  so  foolish 
as  those  of  the  French  and  other  European  people  are  reputed 
to  be,  they  are  not  only  extremely  generous,  but  also  very  dis- 
creet in  reference  to  ladies,  and  even  if  tricked  and  deceived 
by  them,  perhaps  in  the  most  cruel  manner,  they  do  not  re- 
venge themselves  by  expo&ing  their  perhaps  imprudent  fair 
enemies.  An  American  gentleman — of  course  1  speak  only  of 
gentlemen — would  never  betray  the  secrets  of  a  lady,  and  one 
that  should  sin  against  this  sacred  law  would  not  only  be  mor- 
ally lynched  by  the   ladies,  but  lose  caste  with  the  gentlemen. 

I  have  frequently  had  an  opportunity  of  noticing  and 
wondering  at  the  audacity  with  which  American  ladies  put  this 
gentlemanly  virtue  to  the  test,  and  of  admiring  the  stoical 
composure  of  men  v^ho  have  not  even  smiled  or  showed  their 
astonishment  when  ladies  in  their  presence  ventured  protesta- 
tions and  assertions  the  falsehood  of  which  none  knew  better 
than  thev  did. 

I  soon  became  aware  that  we  could  never  progress  or  suc- 
ceed much  in  America  without  the  help  of  influential  friends, 
and  whilst  my  husband  did  his  duty  in  the  field  I  tried  to  win 
the  good  opinion  and  kind  interest  of  men  who  might  be  sup- 
posed to  be  able  to  assist  him.  For  this  purpose  nowhere  was 
offered  a  better  opportunity  than  in  Washington,  where  Con- 
gress was  in  session  and  all  the  ministers  resided.  Congress, 
and  especially  the  Senate,  was  the  spring  of  grace,  and  whoever 
had  friends  in  that  august  body  was  sure  of  success.  In  con- 
sequence of  this  many  people  who  wanted  some  favour  from 
the  Government  crowded  into  Washington,  and  amongst  them 
the  fair  sex  was  strongly  represented.  In  fact,  there  were 
lady-politicians  and  lad3'-lobbyists,  who  made  it  a  business  to 
exert  the  influence  which  they  gained  by  their  coquetry  over 
influential  men,  for  the  benefit  not  only  of  their  husbands  or 
friends,  but  even  for  strangers  and  for  ready  cash  !  Of  course 
these  ladies  were  neither  old,  nor  ugly,  nor  very  prudish,  and 
not  much  respected  ;  but  as  society  at  that  time  had  more  an 
eye  to  gain  than  to  virtue,  these  ladies  in  W^ashington  were 
not  aware  of  the  contempt  in  which  they  were  held  in  other 
parts  of  the  Republic,  Washington  was  then  reputed  as  a 
most  wicked  and  dissipated  place,  and  ladies  that  could  not 


Governor  Morgan.'  33 

afford  to  pa>  it  a  visit  shuddered  at  its  wickedness,  whilst  it 
was  the  highest  desire  of  all  the  rest,  especially  if  good-looking, 
to  pass  a  season  in  this  abominable  place. 

Amongst  the  friends  I  made  in  Washington  was  the  Senator 
of  the  State  of  New  York,  Mr.  Harris,  who  had  his  wife  and 
daughters  with  him  for  the  season.  He  was  a  most  excellent 
man,  and  a  great  friend  of  the  Germans,  whom  he  assisted 
frequently.  < 

Senator  Harris  was  a  tall,  rather  heavy  man  of  about  fifty- 
five,  with  a  serious  but  very  kind  face,  the  expression  of  which 
became  still  milder  from  the  manner  in  which  his  rather  long 
hair  was  arranged,  somewhat  a  la  Franklin.  Like  many  of  the 
American  prominent  men,  he  had  risen  from  a  humble  position. 
Lincoln  when  young  had  earned  his  living  by  working  with  his 
hands  ;  President  Johnson  had  been  a  tailor  ;  Senator  Wilson, 
of  Massachussets,  the  present  Vice-President,  was  once  a  shoe- 
maker ;  and  Senator  Harris  had  been  a  printer's  devil. 

When  I  heard  that  Salm's  dismissal  was  already  resolved  on 
by  Stanton,  we  both  agreed  that  very  prompt  action  was  re- 
quired. After  having  consulted  with  some  of  our  friends,  we 
resolved  to  go  at  once  to  Albany,  the  seat  of  the  government 
of  the  State  of  New  York,  where  we  hoped  that  Senator  Harris, 
who  was  then  there,  would  procure  me  an  audience  with 
Governor  Morgan  ;  for  as  Salm  could  not  speak  English  enough 
to  do  so  for  himself,  I  was  to  induce  him  to  give  my  husband 
the  command  of  some  vacant  regiment. 

Arrived  in  Albany,  I  went  alone  to  see  Mr.  Harris,  for  we 
thought  it  best  that  the  presence  of  my  husband  in  that  city 
should  not  be  known,  and  he  therefore  remained  in  the  hotel. 

When  I  told  dear  old  Mr.  Harris  for  what  purpose  I  came 
and  what  I  wanted  of  him,  he  shook  his  head,  and  said  he  was 
afraid  he  could  serve  me  but  little,  for  Governor  Morgan  was  a 
man  who  did  not  admit  any  influence,  and  on  whom  even  the 
entreaties  of  a  lady  would  not  make  any  impression.  That 
was  discouraging  indeed,  but  I  was  full  of  hope  because  I  was 
so  eager,  and  I  requested  Mr.  Harris  to  accompany  me  at 
least,  and  to  present  me  to  his  Excellency,  to  which  he  agreed 
most  readily. 

Dear  me  !  how  my  heart  was  beating  on  the  way.  I  had  to 
win  my  spurs,  and  against  a  man  who  had  the  reputation  of 
being  a  woman-hater.     I  wonder  how  he  could  ever  have'  been 


34?  Ten  Years  of  ray  Life. 

elected  governor  with  such  a  reputation.  Harris  had  even  ex- 
pressed a  doubt  whether  the  Governor  would  receive  me  at  all, 
and  I  waited  with  great  anxiety  for  the  return  of  the  aide-de- 
camp who  announced  tis  to  the  dreaded  man.  The  titles  of 
Senator  and  Princess  exerted,  however,  their  influence,  and  we 
were  admitted.  A  Senator  of  the  United  States,  I  will  mention 
here,  ranks  before  any  governor  or  minister,  and  is  equal  to  the 
President,  therefore  a  very  high  personage. 

Governor  Morgan  was  a  tall,  square-built  man,  of  about  forty- 
five,  with  greyish  hair  and  a  handsome  but  severe  face.  On 
looking  at  him  my  heart  fell  into  my  shoes,  for  I  saw  little  hope 
of  success  in  that  calm,  stern  eye. 

With  a  faltering  voice  I  commenced  pleading  for  my  husband, 
I  spoke  of  his  ardent  desire  to  serve  the  cause  of  the  Republic, 
and  described  his  despair  at  his  being  kept  inactive  when  his 
comrades  won  honour  in  the  field  ;  I  praised  his  militar}? 
qualities,  and  dwelt  on  the  proofs  Vv  hich  he  had  given  of  them. 
1  became  warmer  and  warmer,  I  spoke  for  about  a  quarter  of 
an  hour,  and  he  never  helped  me  with  a  w^ord. 

At  last  the  Governor  spoke.  He  said  he  did  not  know 
whether  any  regiments  were  vacant,  and  called  a  colonel,  his 
secretary,  to  inquire.  There  were  several  free,  mostly  American 
regiments.  As  my  husband  did  not  speak  English  well  enough 
yet,  I  expressed  his  desire  to  be  placed,  if  possible,  at  the  head 
of  one  of  the  German  regiments.  Yes,  there  was  one  free — the 
8th  New  York. 

Seeing  that  1  had  won  the  battle,  joy  made  me  very  lively 
and  bold,  and  when  Governor  Morgan  seemed  still  to  waver,  I 
said  that  I  v^^ould  not  go  av/ay  without  his  fa.vourable  decision  % 
and  when  he  relaxed  into  a  smile  at  my  eagerness,  which 
seemed  to  please  and  amuse  him,  and  ordered  the  colonel  ta 
appoint  my  husband,  I  pleadingly  insisted  on  my  having  his 
commission  made  out  and  signed  at  once,  that  I  might  be  able 
to  carry  it  to  him  immediately.  That  was  an  important  point; 
for  if,  meanwhile,  the  dismissal  of  the  Prince  had  been  made 
officially  known,  he  might  not  have  got  the  place  after  all.  I 
gained  my  point ;  the  Governor  ordered  the  commission  to  be 
made  out  at  once,  and  he  signed  ito  1  thanked  him  with  the 
warmest  words,  on  which  he  replied  that  the  best  manner  in 
which  1  could  show  my  gratitude  would  be  to  remain  always  as 
true  and  faithful  to  my  husband  as  I  was  then.     When  I  left 


victory.  o5 

the  government  building  I  felt  more  happy  than  I  have  ever 
been  in,  my  life. 

Senator  Harris  congratulated  me,  but  shook  his  head  wonder- 
ingly,  for  he  never  could  have  believed  in  such  a  success  of  a 
lady  with  Governor  Morgan.  When  I  entered  the  room  in  the 
hotel  where  Salm  was  waiting  in  great  anxiety  for  my  return,  I 
assumed  an  indifferent  look,  and  with  a  sad  face  he  said  I  had 
not  been  successful.  I  could-  not  stand  it  any  longer,  and 
taking  out  my  precious  document,  I  said,  *  Here,  dear,  is  your 
commission  as  colonel  of  the  8th  Regiment.'  He  would,  at 
first,  not  believe  it ;  but  on  unfolding  the  paper  the  nightmare 
oppressing  his  heart  was  taken  away,  and  we  both  shed  tears 
of  joy. 

We  at  once  left  Albany,  for  Salm  had  to  make  preparations 
to  join  his  regiment,  which  was  still  in  West  Virginia. 

At  the  end  of  October  Salm  started  for  West  Virginia,  to 
take  the  command  of  his  regiment,  which,  in  the  commence- 
ment of  November  1862,  stood  in  the  most  advanced  position 
in  Aldy,  a  place  about  six  miles  from  General  Stahl's  head- 
quarters ;  and  a  short  time  afterwards  it  was  arranged  that  I 
should  pay  him  a  visit  under  the  escort  of  Colonel  Corvin. 

On  a  night  soon  after  my  arrival  at  Aldy,  we  received  news 
that  the  enemy  were  advancing,  and  towards  morning  the  order 
to  retire  to  Chantilly,  a  place  about  ten  or  twelve  miles  from 
Aldv. 

The  soldiers  regretted  having  to  leave,  for  they  had  es- 
tablished themselves  rather  comfortably.  Most  of  them  had 
improved  their  tents  by  means  of  boards  and  doors,  using  the 
canvas  as  a  roof.  Many  of  these  huts  had  even  a  window  and 
stoves.  The  breaking  up  of  the  camp  was  a  new  and  stirring 
scene,  and  I  was  much  amused  notwithstanding  a  fine  rain, 
which  did  not  make  the  November  morning  more  pleasant.  Our 
tent  was  of  course  packed  also,  and  whilst  the  preparations  were 
going  on  I  was  sitting  on  a  chair  on  its  wooden  flooring, 
warmed  by  a  roaring  fire  close  by.  The  soldiers  not  willing 
to  leave  to  the  rebels  all  their  elaborate  commodities,  burnt 
every  piece  of  board  or  furniture  they  had. 

It  was  arranged  that  I  and  Colonel  Corvin  should  ride  in 
advance  of  the  brigade  to  Chantilly.  The  drizzling  rain  had 
become  a  most  abundant  one,  and  our  sharp  ride  was  no 
pleasure  party  especially  for  the  colonel,  to  whom  I  had  con- 


36  Ten   Years  of  my  Life. 

tided  a  large  and  fine  red  ostrich  plume  for  my  hat,  which  I 
did  not  want  to  have  spoiled,  ^nd  which  he,  half  laughing  and 
half  grumbling,  sheltered  under  his  waterproof. 

We  arrived  in  good  time  at  Chantilly,  and  were  surprised  at 
finding  here  quite  a  princely  establishment,  with  a  mansion, 
which  would  be  called  in  France  or  Germany  a  chateau,  and 
with  a  magnificent  stable  buildings,  justifying  somewhat  the 
name  of  Chantilly,  borrowed  from  the  far-famed  seat  of  the 
Princess  of  Conde  near  Paris,  and  renowned  for  its  palace-like 
stables.  The  splendid  estate  belonged  to  the  famous  rebel 
cavalry-general  Stuart,  who  derived  his  origin  from  the  Royal 
StuartSp  I  do  not  know  with  what  right. 


CHAPTER  III. 

Returning  to  Washington — Bumside's  defeat  at  Fredericksburg — Return- 
ing to  the  camp — Our  birthday — How  the  soldiers  celebrated  it — A 
curious  birthday  cake — Aquaia  Creek — Our  canvas  palace — General 
Hooker  commanding  the  Potomac  army — Our  factotum,  old  Groeben 
— General  Sickles — His  sumptuous  festival- -How  Uncle  Sam  cared 
for  his  soldiers — Mr.  and  Mrs.  Lincoln  visiting  the  camp — The 
President's  wife — Portrait  of  President  Lincoln — Salm's  regiment 
mustered  out  —Returning  Home — Reception  in  Washington — In 
New  York — A  festival  in  Hamilton  Park — Salm  presented  with  a 
sword  of  honour — A  soldier's  ball — I  must  attempt  a  speech — Turning 
another  leaf. 

When  the  Confederates  advanced,  some  fighting  took  place 
near  Chantilly,  and  our  troops  received  orders  to  fall  back 
towards  the  Rappahanoc  River.  I  accompanied  my  husband 
for  a  while,  after  which  he  thought  it  better  that  I  should  go 
to  Washington,  until  the  troops  should  have  arrived  at  some 
jjlace  where  they  would  remain  perhaps  for  the  winter.  I 
went  away  in  company  of  Colonel  von  Amsberg's  wife,  and 
.stayed  a  few  weeks  in  the  National  Hotel  in  Washington. 

These  short  separations  from  my  dear  Felix  were  not  with- 
out charm,  for  I  could  quietly  reflect  on  and  enjoy  my  happi- 
ness. I  was  then  happy,  as  I  have  never  been  again  in  my 
life.  My  husband  was  in  the  position  he  desired,  and  perfectly 
contented,  and  we  loved  each  other  very  much. 

Wiien  the  Potomac  army  arrived  at  the  Rappahanoc,  there 
were  no  means  ready  to  cross  that  river,  and  General  Burnside 
had  to  wait  eight  precious  days,  which  were  not  lost  by  the 
Confederates.  Corvin  wrote  to  Europe,  that  if  Burnside 
crossed  the  Rappahanoc  we  should  experience  a  second  edition 
of  the  Berezine  battle,  no  miracle  preventing  such  a  disaster. 
He  was  right.     Burnside  crossed  that  river  ;  the  bloody  battle 


33  Ten  Years  of  ony  Life. 

of  Fredericksburg  was  fougiit^in  December,  1862;  and  had 
Burnside  not  been  wise  enough  to  profit  by  an  unusually 
stormy  night,  and  to  recross  the  river,  the  whole  army  would 
have  been  lost,  as  it  was  standing  on  a  plain  surrounded 
with  hills  which  were  occupied  by  the  Confederates.  Salni 
was  not  in  that  battle. 

The  8th  New  York  Regiment,  and  Stahl's  whole  division, 
halted  at  a  place  near  the  Potomac,  and  Salm  sent  word  for 
me  to  come.  I  went  down  the  river  on  a  gunboat,  and  drove 
from  the  landing  to  the  camp  in  an  ambulance.  Salm's  regi- 
ment was  encamped  m  a  pine  grove,  on  the  slope  of  a  hill  not 
far  from  a  village  where  Stahl  had  established  his  head-quarters. 
It  was  a  beautiful  spot,  and  the  weather  was  extremely  mild 
and  fine  on  December  25,  Salm's  and  my  birthday.  The  sun 
was  shining  brightly,  and  the  birds  were  singing  in  the  grove. 

In  the  commencement  of  the  war,  each  regiment  had  its 
band  ;  but  this  was  found  superfluous,  and  afterwards  only  each 
brigade  or  division  had  one.  Stahl  sent  one  of  these  bands  to 
serenade  us  in  the  morning,  and  the  soldiers  of  the  regiment 
had  prepared  a  surprise  for  us.  They  had  laid  out  a  little 
garden  with  much  taste,  in  the  old  Italian  style.  The  beds, 
into  which  it  was  divided,  were  surrounded  with  stones,  of 
which  also  figures  were  formed.  Little  shrubs  and  trees  were 
planted,  and  on  one  bed  was  standing  what  looked  like  an 
enormous  birthday  cake.  It  was  a  soldier's  joke,  for  a  real 
cake  being  out  of  the  question,  tliey  had  made  one  of  mud,  and 
ornamented  it  as  is  done  by  the  confectioners  in  Germany, 
with  green  leaves,  coloured  sand,  and  stones  representing  fruit. 

We  were  then  very  badly  off  for  food  in  the  camp,  for  the 
enemy  had  succeeded  in  capturing  several  provision  trains. 
For  many  days  we  had,  indeed,  nothing  but  salt  pork — and 
not  much  of  it — and  hard  tack.  The  soldiers  soaked  the 
latter  in  vv^ater,  and  fried  it  with  the  salt  pork  ;  they  prepared 
a  dish  which  was  at  least  eatable.  The  officers  had  nothing  else, 
for  the  roads  in  Virginia  were  at  that  time  bad  beyond  all  descrip- 
tion, and  provision  vendors  were  not  permitted  to  come  to  the 
camp  at  that  time,  for  fear  of  being  intercepted  by  the  enemy, 
and  the  regiment  sutlers  were  long  ago  exhaused. 

When  the  officers  came  to  congratulate  us,  we  wished,  of 
course,  to  offer  them  some  refreshment ;  and  with  the  utmost 
difficulty  Salm  procured  four  bottles  of  very  vile  whiskey,  for 


Tent  Furniture,  39 

which  he  had  to  pay  eight  dollars  a  bottle.  Sugar  and  some 
lemons  were  procured  also,  and  we  could  treat  our  guests 
with  a  punch  which  found  immense  favour  with  them,  though 
it  was  a  most  abominable,  abundantly  watered  stuff.  We  were, 
however,  as  merry  and  happy  as  could  be. 

After  a  time,  in  January,  1863,  we  received  orders  to  march 
to  Aquaia  Creek,  where  a  good  number  of  troops  were  assem- 
bled. The  march  there  was  very  difficult  and  disagreeable, 
for  the  roads  were,  as  mentioned  before,  beyond  description. 
The  soldiers  sunk  up  to  their  knees  in  the  mud,  and  the 
waggons  and'guns  were  often  not  to  be  moved  by  a  whole  herd 
of  horses  or  mules. 

This  state  of  the  roads  made  war  nearly  impossible  for  both 
parties,  and  we  expected  that  we  should  remain  a  good  while, 
perhaps  the  whole  winter,  at  Aquaia  Creek,  and  arranged  oui- 
selves  accordingly.     Salm  procured  a  large  hospital  tent,  which 
was  decorated  very  tastefully  and  even  gorgeously ;  for  amongst 
•the  soldiers  of  his  regiment  were  workmen  of  all  trades  ;  uphol- 
sterers, carpenters,  &c.     The  tent  was  made  less  transparent 
by   doubling  and  decorating  it  with  white  and  red  woollen 
damask,  arranged  in  festoons,  between   which  were  fastened 
flags.     The   board   floor  was   covered  with  a  carpet,    and  our. 
salon  was  provided  with  a  splendid  sofa,  which  the  soldiers  had 
very  skilfully  made.     Though  the  cushions  were  only  straw, 
they  were  well  made,  and  covered  with  damask.     The  admi- 
ration of  everybody  was,  however,  a  large  mirror  which  Salm, 
with  great  trouble,  had  procured  from  a  neighbouring  village, 
imagining  that  no  lady  could  be  happy  without  a  looking-glass. 
I  had,  however,  little  need  of  it,  as  my  toilet  in  the  field  was 
as  simple  as  possible.     I  had  a  black  and  a  grey  riding  dress 
— I  must  have  a  change,  as  we  not  rarely  got  drenched  in  our 
excursions    on    horseback — and    two   uniform-like   costumes, 
which  I  adopted  for  the  whole  war-time  in  the  field,  consisting 
of  a  petticoat  falling  to  my  ankles,  and  a  tight-fitting  jacket, 
both  of  cloth. 

Our  bedroom  looked  also  splendid  ;  for  the  soldiers  had 
made  of  boards  a  large  bedstejid,  and  provided  it  with  a  straw 
mattress,  over  which  was  spread  a  buffalo  robe,  and  another, 
together  with  blankets,  served  as  a  coverlet.  Over  our  iieads 
arched  a  canopy,  decorated  with  white  and  red  damask,  and 
the  whole  looked  quite  grand. 


40  Ten   Years  of  my  Life. 

We  possessed,  also,  a  tin  SQf vice  for  six  persons,  not  to  for- 
get half  a  dozen  of  knives  and  forks,  so  that  we  were  enabled 
to  entertain  a  guest  or  two.  Behind  our  canvas  palace  was  a 
smaller  tent,  which  served  as  a  kitchen  and  a  dormitory  for 
my  negro  servant  girl,  whom  I  had  brought  with  me  from 
Washington,  and  a  shed  was  used  as  a  stable  for  our  horses. 

Starvation  was  at  an  end  now,  for  victuals  of  all  kinds  were 
abundant.  We  had  our  own  caterer,  who  provided  us  with  all 
the  delicacies  of  the  season,  and  our  wine  cellar,  which  was 
dug  in  the  ground,  contained  bottles  of  the  most  different 
shapes  and  contents. 

When  it  became  certain  that  we  were  to  stay  all  the  winter 
where  we  were,  the  camp  assumed  soon  the  aspect  of  an  im- 
provised town.  General  Hooker,  who  commanded  the  corps, 
and  of  whom  I  shall  speak  directly,  permitted  the  families  of 
the  officers  and  soldiers  to  visit  and  stay  with  them,  and  the 
whole  camp  was  teeming  with  women  and  children.  In  fact 
there  was  scarcely  one  officer  who  had  not  his  wife,  mother; 
sister,  or  cousin  with  him,  and  beside  the  tent  sprang  up  like 
mushrooms  one  shanty  or  blockhouse  after  the  other.  The 
country  around  was  fine,  the  weather  mostly  mild  and  pleasant, 
and  everybody  only  thinking  how  to  amuse  himself  and  others. 
I  felt  as  happy  as  could  be,  and  remember  still  with  delight 
that  time. 

Whilst  we  were  there  we  were  joined  by  a  relative  of  my 
husband,  Mr.  v.  d.  Groeben,  a  former  captain  of  the  Holy 
Father's  army,  for  whom  Salm  procured  a  captain's  commis- 
sion. Old  Groeben,  as  we  called  him,  though  he  was  not  old, 
became  much  attached  to  us,  and  contributed  immensely  to 
our  comfort.  He  installed  himself  as  our  major-domo,  man- 
aged all  our  affairs,  and  arranged  all  pleasure  parties  and  the 
like.  He  was  a  somewhat  pedantic,  queer  man,  who  grumbled 
always  and  at  everything,  though  he  was  by  no  means  satur- 
nine or  of  bad  temper,  but,  on  the  contrary,  rather  full  of  a  quiet 
good  humour.  He  was  everywhere  with  us,  though  it  cost 
him  many  sighs  and  groans  to  follow  us  across  the  country, 
for  he  was  a  very  indifferent  horseman,  and,  warned  by  nume- 
rous tumbles,  he  preferred  whenever  he  could  a  seat  in  a  boat 
or  ambulance  to  one  in  the  saddle. 

As  w^  had  to  do  nothing  but  amuse  ourselves,  and  kill  the 
time  agreeably,  scarcely  a  day  passed  without  some  excursion, 


A  Camp  Supper.  41 

pleasure  party,  dinner,  or  ball ;  and  for  the  entertainment  of 
the  soldiers  care  was  taken  likewise. 

Some  of  these  festivals  were  indeed  sumptuous,  and  I  espe- 
cially remember  one  given  by  General  Sickles,  in  a  hall  impro- 
vised from  canvas  by  uniting  a  dozen  or  more  large  hospital 
tents  in  a  convenient  manner. 

This  immense  tent  was  decorated  inside  and  outside  with 
flags,  garlands,  flowers,  and  Chinese  lamps  in  great  profusion, 
and  offered  a  fairy-like  aspect.  The  supper  laid  under  the  tent 
for  about  two  hundred  persons,  ladies  and  gentlemen,  could 
not  have  been  better  in  Paris,  for  the  famous  Delmonico  from 
New  York  had  come  himself  to  superintend  the  repast,  and 
brought  with  him  his  kitchen  aides  and  batteries,  and  immense 
quantities  of  the  choicest  provisions  and  delicacies,  together 
with  plate  and  silver,  and  whatever  was  required  to  make  one 
forget  that  it  was  a  camp  supper.  The  wines  and  liquors  were 
in  correspondence  with  the  rest,  and  no  less,  I  suppose,  the 
bill  to  be  paid. 

It  is  true  it  was  an  unheard-of  luxury  displayed  on  this 
occasion,  and  had  such  a  festival  taken  place  in  a  German 
camp  it  would  have  created  throughout  the  country  a  bad  feel- 
ing, and  the  press  would  have  commented  on  it  in  no  pleasing 
manner.  It  was.  however,  far  different  in  America.  Soldiers 
and  people  likedand  approved  such  display  ;  they  would  have 
blamed  parsimonious  generals,  whilst  they  did  not  control  too 
closely  those  who  freely  spent  what  they  perhaps  made  in 
consequence  of  their  position.  Moreover,  many  of  them  were 
very  rich.  The  soldiers  did  not  grudge  the  generals  their 
luxurious  habits  either  ;  they  found  an  amusement  in  such 
festivals,  and  were  sensible  enough  to  understand  that  they 
could  not  all  partake  in  them.  It  would  have  been  different 
if  the  Government  had  been  stingy  towards  the  army,  but 
that  was  by  no  means  the  case.  '  Uncle  Sam '  opened  his 
strong  boxes,  and  the  army  was  paid  and  supplied  with  pro- 
visions in  a  manner  quite  unheard  of  in  Europe.  If  accidents 
inseparable  from  such  a  war  prevented  the  arrival  of  |Drovis- 
ions  for  a  time,  there  was  always  plenty,  and  not  only  the- main 
necessities  of  life,  but  things  were  furnished  which  never 
appear  in  the  stores  of  a  German  army,  and  which  would  be 
there  considered  as  preposterous.  Though  the  immense  dis- 
tances and  the  bad  state  of  the  roads  made  this  branch  of  the 


42  Ten  Years  of  ony  Life. 

service  extremely  difficult,  the  practical  sense  of  the  Americans 
surmounted  all  difficulties,  and  soon  after  the  commencement 
of  war  things  in  the  commissariat  of  the  army  went  like  clock- 
work. The  rich  American  people  did  not  care  if  some  hun- 
dreds of  millions  were  perhaps  squandered  ;  trade  in  the  North 
States  was  as  brisk  as  ever;  nay,  on  the  contrary,  war,  instead 
of  hindering,  seemed  to  increase  it.  Money  was  circulating 
more  freel}^  than  ever,  and  instead  of  suffering,  the  country, 
and  especially  the  cities,  seemed  to  improve  by  the  war. 

The  soldiers  lived  well,  for  they  were  paid  well.  Everything 
was  furnished  to  them  liberally  by  the  Government ;  nothing 
was  deducted  from  their  pay,  which  amounted  even  for  private 
soldiers  to  fourteen  dollars  a  month.  Everything  was  done 
for  the  soldiers  of  the  nation  by  the  National  Government, 
the  utmost  care  taken  to  procure  for  them  all  possible  commo- 
dities, and  private  industry  speculating  in  that  direction  was 
never  hindered  except  by  the  requirements  of  discipline.  The 
connection  between  the  army  and  home  was  carefully  consi 
dered,  and  the  postal  arrangements  were  wonderfully  regular, 
notwithstanding  the  enormous  distances.  Virginia  alone  is  as 
large  as  all  Germany,  and  the  distance  from  the  Mississippi  to 
New  York  as  great  as  the  whole  length  of  Europe. 

It  was  indeed  interesting  to  observe  the  wonderful  celerity 
with  which  the  Americans  proceeded.  '  Adams's  Express 
Company  '  and  the  telegraph  were  institutions  which  I  might 
say  followed  the  skirmishers.  At  the  same  time,  with  the  first 
tent  generally  grew  up  a  shanty  with  the  firm  of  '  Adams's  Ex- 
press,' which  conveyed  parcels  of  every  size  to  the  army  and 
throughout  the  Union.  In  America  it  was  thought  desirable 
that  the  soldiers  should  know  what  their  comrades  were  doing 
hundreds  of  miles  off.  One  of  the  first  things  done  was  there- 
fore the  arrangement  of  a  very  regular  newspaper  service. 
Stations  were  established  between  the  camp  and  the  next  rail- 
road or  steamship  landing,  and  newsboys  on  horseback,  nearly 
disappearing  between  papers,  came  in  full  gallop  and  brought 
the  welcome  sheets  to  the  soldiers,  who  bought  thousands  of 
copies,  paying  with  pleasure  double  prices  and  more. 

A  department  highly  important  for  the  comfort  of  the  sol- 
diers is  that  of  the  suders,  and  I  frequently  wondered  how 
miserably  this  branch  was  arranged  in  the  German  army,  which 
in  other  respects  is  so  far  superior  to  any  other.     I  shall  speak 


Cam}:)  Life  at  Aquaia  Creek.  43 

of  this  and  many  other  things  in  their  place,  but  only  mention 
here  that  the  care  for  the  extra  and  private  comfort  of  the  sol- 
diers was  in  the  American  army  not  left  to  such  low  and  desti- 
tute wretches  as  we  have  seen  disgracing  the  German  by  their 
rapacity.  The  sutlers  were  regularly  appointed  and  enrolled, 
and  wore  unifornis,  and  many  of  them  were  very  substantial 
people,  kept  well-supplied  stores,  and  had  many  subordinates 
and  agents.  Of  abuses  and  other  inconveniences  in  this 
respect,  I  shall  have  occasion  to  speak  later.  Liquors  were 
prohibited  in  the  American  army,  which  would  appear  quite 
intolerable  to  German  soldiers  ;  but  with  Americans  it  was 
necessary  ;  especially  in  regiments  where  the  Irish  element 
prevailed.  Germans  are  reasonable  in  the  use  of  liquor ; 
Americans,  1  am  sorry  to  say,  are  in  general  not  ;  and  besides 
it  must  be  considered  that  disciphne  in  an  army  formed  Uke 
the  American  cou-ld  not  be  maintained  in  the  same  manner  as 
in  the  German  army. 

Of  the  sanitary  arrangements  I  must  speak  more  at  length 
later ;  I  shall  drop  the  subject,  and  return  to  our  delightful 
camp  life  near  Aquaia  Creek,  which  was  a  string  of  amuse- 
ments. 

In  the  daytime  we  wentabout  visiting  ourneighbours,  amongst  • 
whom  were  very  pleasant  people.     And  every  evening  we  had 
receptions  in  our  tent.     We  played  a  rubber  of  whist,  whilst 
Groeben  was  brewing  punch  or  eggnog  for  our  guests,  who 
retired  always  at  midnight. 

There  were,  of  course,  plenty  of  newspaper  reporters  in  our 
camp  ;  and  as  they  had  not  much  to  write  about  the  war,  they 
described  our  sports  and  festivals,  which  descriptions  tempted 
many  people  to  pay  us  a  visit ;  and  even  Mr.  Lincoln,  or  per- 
.  haps  Mrs.  Lincoln,  could  not  resist.  The  announcement  of 
this  visit  caused,  of  course,  great  excitement ;  and  preparations 
were  made  to  entertain  them  as  well  as  possible.  They  were 
to  stay  at  General  Hooker's  head-quarters  ;  but  the  real  maitre 
de  plaisirs  was  General  Sickles,  who  had  been  in  Europe,  and 
who  knew  all  about  it.  He  wanted  to  introduce  even  some 
novelties  of  a  monarchical  smack,  and  proposed  to  appoint  for 
the  time  of  the  visit  some  ladies  of  honour  to  attend  on  Mrs. 
Lincoln.  This  plan,  however,  was  not  to  the  liking  of  the 
American  ladies,  each  of  whom  thought  herself  quite  as 
sovereign  as  the  wife  of  the  President. 


44 .  Ten  Years  of  my  Life. 

President  Lincoln's  features  are  well  known.  People  said 
that  his  face  was  ugly.  He  certainly  had  neither  the  figure  nor 
features  of  the  Apollo  of  Belvedere  ;  but  he  never  appeared 
ugly  to  me,  for  his  face,  beaming  with  boundless  kindness  and 
benevolence  towards  mankind,  had  the  stamp  of  intellectual 
beauty.  I  could  not  look  into  it  without  feeling  kindly  towards 
him,  and  without  tears  starting  to  my  eyes,  for  over  the  whole 
face  was  spread  a  melancholy  tinge,  which  some  will  have 
noticed  in  many  persons  who  are  fated  to  die  a  violent  death. 

A  German  author,  I  think  it  is  L.  Tieck,  says  somewhere 
that  one  loves  a  person  only  the  better  on  discovering  in  him 
or  her  something  funny  or  ridiculous,  and  this  remark  struck 
me  as  very  correct.  We  may  worship  or  revere  a  perfect  per- 
son ;  but  real  warm  human  aftection  we  feel  towards  such  as 
do  not  overawe  us,  but  stand  nearer  to  us  by  some  imperfec- 
tion or  peculiar  weakness  provoking  a  smile.  President  Lin- 
coln's appearance  v/as  peculiar.  There  was  in  his  face,  besides 
kindness  and  melancholy,  a  sly  humour  flickering  around  the 
corners  of  his  big  mouth  and  his  rather  small  and  somewhat 
tired-looking  eyes. 

He  was  tall  and  thin,  with  enormously  long  loose  arms  and 
big  hands,  and  long  legs  ending  with  feet  such  as  I  never  saw 
before  ;  one  of  his  shoes  might  have  served  Commodore  Nutt 
as  a  boat.  The  manner  in  which  he  dressed  made  him  appear 
even  taller  and  thinner  than  he  was,  for  the  clothes  he  wore 
seemed  to  be  transmitted  to  him  by  some  still  taller  elder 
brother.  In  summer,  when  he  wore  a  suit  made  of  some  light 
black  stuff,  he  looked  like  a  German  village  schoolmaster.  He 
had  very  large  ears  standing  oft  a  little,  and  when  he  was  in  a 
good  humour  I  always  expected  him  to  flap  with  them  like  a 
good-natured  elephant.  .'  • 

Notwithstanding  his  peculiar  figure,  he  did  not  appear  ridi- 
culous ;  he  had  of  the  humourous  just  as  much  about  him  as 
the  people  like  to  see  in  public  characters  they  love.  Lincoln 
was  beloved  by  the  Americans  more  than  any  other  man  ;  he 
was  the  most  popular  President  the  United  States  ever  had, 
Washington  and  Jackson  not  excepted. 

I  need  not  say  that  everything  was  done  by  the  command- 
ing-generals to  entertain  Mrs.  Lincoln  and  the  President,  who 
on  reviewing  the  troops  was  everywhere  received  with  heart- 
felt cheers. 


A  Reception  on  New  Years  Day.  45 

After  having  lived  now  for  a  number  of  years  in  Europe,  I 
can  well  understand  the  astonishment  of  Germans  newly  arriv- 
ing in  America  on  seeing  the  simple  and  unceremonious  manner 
in  which  the  President  is  treated. 

Though  standing  at  the  head  of  40,000,000  of  people,  and 
having  during  their  reign  more  power  than  any  European  king, 
neither  Lincoln,  nor  Johnson,  nor  Grant  behaved  with  half  t'ne 
conceit  that  we  notice  in  a  Prussian  '  Regierungsrath/  The 
title  of  the  President  is  '  your  Excellency  /  but  it  is  only  used 
by  foreigners.  Americans  call  him  Mr.  President,  or  simply 
by  his  name.  There  were  before  the  White  House  no  sentinels, 
not  even  a  porter  ;  everybody  could  enter  the  residence  of  the 
nation.  There  were  ooe  or  two  officials  in  citizens'  dress  in 
the  house  to  answer  questions  ;  but  no  crowd  of  gorgeously 
liveried  footmen  was  to  be  seen,  and  even  at  great  public  re- 
ceptions everything  went  off  as  simply  as  possible,  only  such 
arrangements  being  made  as  were  necessary  for  preventing 
confusion.  There  was  no  particular  dress  required,  and  sol- 
diers coming  directly  from  the  camp  m  their  cloaks  went  simply 
in  and  shook  hands  with  their  highest  chief. 

Such  a  reception,  for  instance,  at  New  Year's  Day  was  very 
hard  work  for  the  President,  especially  for  Lincoln,  whose  re- 
ceptions were  always  excessively  crowded,  because  people 
loved  him.  All  visitors  entered  a  certain  door,  and  passed — 
as  they  came — in  a  single  file  to  the  President,  to  whom  a 
marshal  called  out  the  names.  The  President  shook  hands 
with  everyone,  saying,  at  least,  '  How  do  you  do  ?  '  if  not  hav- 
ing occasion  for  a  few  words  more.  The  file  passed  out  through 
a  window  on  a  kind  of  bridge  constructed  of  simple  board. 
This  hand-shaking  was  a  most  fatiguing  exercise,  for  it  had  to 
be  repeated  several  thousand  times,  and  President  Lincoln's 
shoulder  was  always  swollen  after  it,  so  that  he  could  scarcely 
use  his  arm  for  a  few  days. 

Notwithstanding  this  absence  of  ceremony,  the  President  is 
respected  as  much  as  any  king.  Outward  pomp  is  not  required 
with  a  free  people.  An  Asiatic'despot  would  be  nothing  with- 
out his  guards,  his  throne,  and  gorgeous  dresses,  &c.  The  real 
power  of  a  prince  is  based  on  the  love  of  his  nation,  and  the 
comparative  simplicity  with  which  our  august  empress  and 
emperor  appear  now  always  in  public  is  a  very  significant 
token. 


4G  Ten   Years  of  my  Life. 

I  explained  before  that  the  American  soldiers  were  engaged 
only  for  a  certain  time,  and  that  the  commission  of  the  colonel 
and  other  officej-s  expired  when  the  regiment  was  disbanded  ; 
they  became  then  again  simple  citizens,  receiving  neither  pay 
nor  pensions,  if  not  disabled  in  the  service.  Did  they  want  to 
serve  again,  they  had  to  look  out  for  a  new  commission,  and  it 
happened  frequently  that  they  accepted  one  of  a  lower  degree  ; 
that  is,  former  colonels  became  perhaps  captains  or  lieutenants. 
Nay,  I  know  a  case  where  a  colonel  entered  as  a  private  sol- 
dier in  a  regiment,  which  was  commanded  by  a  colonel  who 
had  served  before  as  a  private  in  his  former  regiment. 

When  the  war  commenced  it  was  expected  to  last  only  a 
short  time,  and  the  8th  New  York  Regiment,  which  was  one 
of  the  first  formed,  Avas  engaged  only  for  two  years.  Its  term 
therefore  expired  in  the  spring  of  1863,  and  Salm  was,  of 
course,  to  be  dismissed  with  his  men.  He  was  therefore 
anxious  to  procure  a  new  colonel's  commission,  which  was  not 
so  very  difficult  for  hirr  ,  but  a  colonel  was  only  accepted  as 
such  by  the  War  Department  of  the  Union  if  he  brought  with 
him  a  regiment,  or,  at  least,  700  men  of  it.  Had  the  men  of 
the  8th  Regiment  chosen  to  enlist  for  another  term,  everything 
might  have  remained  as  it  was,  but  the  men  wanted  mostly  to 
go  home  for  a  time,  and  only  about  a  hundred  remained. 

Salm  tried  hard  to  arrange  everything  so  as  to  make  it  pos- 
sible to  remain  with  the  army,  as  heavy  fighting  was  to  be 
expected  very  soon  ;  but  he  did  not  succeed,  nolwith^anding 
the  goodwill  of  the  commanding  generals.  He  had  to  lead  his 
regiment  back  to  New  York,  where  it  had  to  be  disbanded. 

I  was  at  that  time  in  Washington,  very  busy  in  behalf  of  my 
husband.  The  7th  and  8Lh  New  York  Regiments,  on  their 
way  to  their  city,  had  to  pass  Washington,  whose  citizens  pre- 
pared for  them  a  reception.  Accompanied  by  Colonel  Corvin, 
who  rode  Blenker's  most  beautiful  thorough-bred  Victor,  and 
several  other  officers,  we  proceeded  to  the  landing  on  the  Po- 
tomac, where  the  regiments  were  to  arrive  in  large  transport 
steamers.  They  were  received  with  much  cheering,  and  after 
having  formed,  the  whole  procession,  headed  by  myself  and  a 
numerous  cortege,  marched  across  Washington  to  the  New 
York  railroad  depot.  The  7th  regiment  had  been  commanded 
by  Colonel  von  Schack,  a  very  brave  and  popular  officer,  who 
was  formerly  a  chamberlain  of  the  Princess  Charles  of  Prussia, 


End  of  a  pleasant  period  of  my  Life.  47 

and  who  for  similar  reasons  to  Salm's  had  come  to  Am.erica. 
In  his  regiment  had  been,  as  a  captain,  another  Prussian 
officer,  who  had  served  in  the  Gardes  du  Corps,  Von  Buggen- 
hagen.  He  was  severely  wounded  at  the  battle  of  Fredericks- 
burg, and  died  in  Washington  on  the  New  Year's  night. 

He  was  buried  with  all  military  honours  through  the  care 
of  the  Colonels  Corvin  and  Radowitz,  and  Mr.  Gau,  Secretary 
of  the  Prussian  Legation,  in  the  senatorial  churchyard,  where 
he  lay  at  the  side  of  Captain  Schwenke  and  Lieutenant-Colonel 
Gerber,  who  was  murdered  by  mistake,  a  jealous  lover  taking 
him  for  another  man. 

We  went  to  New  York,  where  the  regiment  was  disbanded. 
The  returnyig  soldiers  were  received  by  their  fellow-citizens 
with  great  rejoicing,  and  all  contributed  to  do  them  honour. 
On  the  2nd  of  May,  Mr.  Landmann  and  Mr.  Edinger  enter- 
tained at  their  expense  the  whole  regiment  in  Landmann's 
*  Hamilton  Park,'  and  on  this  occasion  the  soldiers  presented 
Salm  with  a  testimony  of  their  love  and  respect,  consisting  of  a 
magnificent  sword  of  honour,  with  a  solid  golden  scabbard  and 
hilt  with  silver  ornaments  bearing  the  following  inscription  : 
'The  Soldiers  of  the  8th  regiment,  N.Y.S.V.,  to  their  Colonel 
Felix,  Pr.  Salm.'  Salm  thanked  them  in  some  deeply-felt 
appropriate  words,  and  the  whole  festival  gave  general  satis- 
faction. 

In  the  evening  we  had  a  ball,  where  all  the  soldiers  appeared 
with  their  wives  or  sweethearts,  whom  they  presented  to  me, 
and  I  held  quite  a  reception.  I  scarcely  recognized  the  well- 
known  faces  of  the  soldiers,  who  appeared  in  their  citizen 
dresses.  It  was  a  very  pleasant  party,  and  I  felt  quite  affected 
by  the  kind  and  confident  manner  in  which  I  was  treated  by 
these  good  Germans.  At  supper  I  was  of  course  toasted,  and 
when  Salm  rose  to  answer,  he  was  silenced  by  die  clamorous 
demand  for  a  speech  from  me.  I  had  to  comply,  and  my 
efforts  to  express  myself  in  German  were  received  with  thunder- 
ing applause.  .  .  • 

Thus  ended  a  very  pleasant,  rather  too  short,  period  of  my 
American  life,  and  one  of  trouble  and  anxiety  commenced. 


48 


CHAPTER  IV. 

Our  New  York  life— In  a  Methodist's  house — Sahn,  Colonel  of  the  68th 
Regiment  N.Y.V. — In  partibiis — Recruiting  difficulties-^Salm  autho- 
rised to  raise  a  brigade — His  and  Corvin's  recruting  plan  favoured  by 
Secretary  of  State,  W.  H.  Seward — An  audience  with  President 
Lincoln — Secretary  of  War  Stanton  opposing — A  visit  to  Blenker's 
farm — The  battle  of  Chancellorville — Defeat  of  Hooker—  Superseded 
by  General  Meade — The  glorious  battle  of  Gettysburg — General 
Sickles  severely  wounded — The  New  York  Riots — Mrs.  Bennett — 
Mr,  James  Gordon  Bennett — His  Son — Fort  Washingron — The  first 
appearance  of  Master  Jimmy — Mrs.  James  Speier — The  Spiritualist 
Excitement — Mrs.  Anna  Sugdon,  a  pretty  knocking,  and  Mrs.  Heath 
Adams,  a  writing  medium — Spiritual  seances  at  my  house — At  Mrs. 
Bennett's — The  flying  music-book — At  Mrs.  Speier's--A  table 
knocked  off  its  legs — A  detected  tipping  medium— Bad  state  of  affairs 
— I  go  out  recruiting  to  Washington. 

We  took  private  lodgings  in  32,  Bond  Street,  New  York,  in 
the  house  of  Rev.  Baldwin,  a  Methodist  preacher.  Every 
Wednesday  and  Saturday  night  prayer  meetings  were  held  in  a 
large  room  adjoining  ours,  and  we  were  much  astonished  by 
the  clamorous  devotion  of  the  congregation.  The  spirit  moved 
them  vehemently,  and  those  who  did  not  know  what  they  were 
about  would  have  believed  that  the  inmates  of  a  madhouse  had 
broken  loose.  Their  ecstacies  were  wonderful,  and  the  longer 
the  thing  lasted,  the  louder  and  wilder  and  more  piercing  be- 
came the  shrieks  of  the  devoted.  Dozens  of  voices  cried  out, 
*  Jesus  Christ,  come  dov/n,  come  down,  that  we  can  touch 
your  garments  ! '  or  '  Glory,  glory,  glory  !  Many  fainted  or  fell 
down  in  fits,  kicking  and  beating  the  ground. 

One  of  these  nights,  when  some  particular  occurrence  must 
have  moved  the  saints  in  an  unusual  manner,  the  police 
knocked  at  our  shutters — we  lived  on  the  ground-floor — and 


Recruiting.  49 

told  us  to  stop  that  fighting  and  shrieking,  which  alarmed  the 
whole  street-  They  were  much  astonished  on  hearing  that  the 
Methodists  were  only  fighting  with  the  devil,  and  having  no 
desire  to  hinder  such  holy  contests,  they  disappeared  awe- 
struck.    We  afterwards  always  went  out  on  those  evenings. 

Salm  succeeded  in  his  endeavours  to  get  a  new  colonel's 
commission  fi-om  the  Governor  of  New  York,  who  appointed 
him  colonel  of  the  68th  Regiment  N.Y.V.  That  regiment  was 
not  yet  disbanded,  and  figured  still  on  the  list  of  regiments  in 
the  service,  but  it  had  dwindled  away  to  scarcely  one  company 
who  stood  in  the  field.  Salm  had  to  reorganise  the  regiment, 
and  opened  a  recruiting  ofiice  in  Broadway,  No.  619,  at  Mail- 
lard's  Hotel.  He  was  very  sanguine  in  his  hopes,  and,  being 
ambitious  also,  he  wanted  to  raise  a  whole  brigade,  for  which 
lie  procured  the  authorisation  and  the  promise  of  several  colo- 
nels ill  partibus^  to  serve  under  his  command. 

Things  had,  however,  clianged  very  much  since  186 1.  The 
immense  losses  sustained  in  McClellan's  peninsular  campaign, 
on  the  many  battle-fields  and  the  swamps  of  Chickahominy  ; 
the  hardships  which  the  solcliers  had  to  undergo,  the  incompe- 
tence of  most  generals,  and  the  barbarous  manner  in  which 
the  soldiers  were  still  treated  in  the  army,  had  considerably 
cooled  down  the  military  enthusiasm  of  the  nation.  When 
the  war  commenced  most  people  imagined  that  it  would  be 
soon  and  gloriously  ended,,  and,  excited  by  the  political  ora- 
tors, and  attracted  by  the  novelty  of  military  life,  of  which  the 
dark  and  appalling  features  were  not  known  yet,  an  immense 
number  of  volunteers  rushed  to  the  recruiting  offices.  In  fact, 
the  whole  first  army  consisted  of  volunteers.  That  was  at  an 
end  now,  and  the  Governments  of  the  difi"erent  States  had  to 
resort  to  all  kinds  of  inducements,  which,  however,  did  not 
induce  many,  and  the  advantages  and  promises  granted  to  sol- 
diers had  to  be  made  more  alluring  every  month.  The  Gov- 
ernment of  New  York  offered  a  bounty  of  three  hundred  dol- 
lars to  everyone  who.  enlisted  for  three  years ;  and  patriotic 
societies  throughout  the  United  States,  and  the  General  Gov- 
ernment itself,  provided  means  to  increase  this  bounty,  which 
at  the  end  of  the  war  amounted  in  several  states  to  nearly  one 
thousand  dollars.  This  bounty  was,  of  course,  not  to  be  paid 
at  once  and  in  advance,  but  it  was  sure  £0  be  paid  at  the  end 


5( 


Ten  Years  of  my  Life. 


of  the  war,  or  after  three  years,  or  sooner  if  the  soldier  should 
be  killed,  or  die  when  in  service,  to  his  heirs. 

It  was  very  natural  that  thS  attention  of  sharpers,  and  all 
sorts  of  people  who  wanted  to  make  money  in  an  easy  manner, 
was  soon  directed  to  this  recruiting  business.  Promises,  how- 
ever great  and  sure,  have  not  much  attraction  for  common 
men  ;  they  prefer  a  hundred  dollars  in  cash  to  a  thousand  to 
be  paid  after  three  years,  and  there  were  plenty  of  people 
ready  to  furnish  such  cash,  well  satisfied  with  the  certainty  of 
getting  six  or  ten  times  the  amount  after  three  years.  A  colo- 
nel raising  a  regiment,  and  desirous  of  reaching  as  soon  as 
possible  the  number  required  for  his  acceptance  by  the  Gene- 
ral Government,  could  not  succeed  without  the  assistance  of 
agents,  who  hunted  out  people  willing  to  enlist  on  payment  of 
a  small  sum,  and  to  cede  all  their  claims  to  them. 

The  agents  were,  however,  not  the  only  persons  who  had  an 
eye  to  business ;  the  men  on  whom  they  speculated  were  just 
as  sharp  as  themselves,  and  amongst  them  were  precious 
rogues  who  liked  the  money  but  not  the  service.  Knowing 
that  most  of  these  recruiting  agents  were  sharpers,  and  not 
particular  in  regard  to  the  honesty  of  their  transactions,  they 
did  not  think  it  a  crime  to  cheat  them.  Circumstances  favoured 
their  fraudulent  intentions,  and  they  had  hundreds  of  means  to 
carry  them  out.  In  European  States  everybody  is,  as  it  were^ 
labelled  by  the  police  as  soon  as  he  is  born,  and  in  the  books 
of  this  institution  is  to  be  found' his  biography.  That  is  not 
so  in  America,  where  the  police  only  take  notice  of  a  person 
when  committing  some  breach  of  the  law.  Many  persons 
enlisted  under  a  false  name,  and  deserted,  after  having  received  , 
money,  to  a  neighbouring  State,  where  they  repeated  the  same 
trick.  Those  who  practised  this  business  were  called  '  bounty- 
jumpers,'  and  they  were  severely  punished — if  caught. 

Poor  Salm,  though  a  very  brave  soldier,  was  very  little  fit  for 
this  kind  of  business,  and  became  utterly  disgusted  with  it  : 
necessity  compelled  him  to  go  on  as  well  as  he  could,  but  he 
made  indeed  but  little  progress. 

It  was  natural  that  he  reflected  on  some  more  effective 
manner  of  raising  men  for  his  brigade,  and  as  so  many  people 
came  from  Europe  attracted  by  the  war,  his  eyes  were  longingly 
directed  towards  that  country  where  recruiting  under  such 
favourable  terms  would  have  been  the  most  easy  work  in  the 


Recruiting  Sharper s.  51 

world.  There  were  thousands  of  young  men  who  would  have 
liked  to  emigrate  if  they  could  only  find  the  means  to  pay  their 
passage,  and  being  compelled  to  serve  in  the  armies  of  their 
native  countries  for  a  very  low  pay,  and  no  bounty  at  all,  they 
would  most  willingly  serve  in  that  of  the  United  States,  on  re- 
ceiving free  passage,  a  round  sum  of  money,  fourteen  dollars  a 
month,  and  after  the  expiration  of  their  time  a  grant  of  a  con- 
siderable number  of  acres  from  the  Government. 

The  subject  was  frequently  discussed  between  him  and  Col- 
onel Corvin,  who  was  much  in  favour  of  emigration.  Corvin 
had  arrived  in  Washington  with  very  good  recommendations 
to  President  Lincoln,  who  introduced  him  to  the  Secretarv  of 
State,  Mr.  Seward,  in  whose  house  he  was  very  kindly  received. 
He  passed  many  evenings,  sometimes  alone,  with  that  eminent 
statesman,  who  conceived  a  very  favourable  opmion  of  the 
military  talents  of  the  colonel.  He  offered  him  repeatedly 
the  command  of  a  regiment,  but  the  colonel  declined,  not 
liking  the  state  of  military  affairs  in  the  United  States,  and 
preferring  his  position  as  a  war  correspondent  to  the  influential 
papers  with  which  he  was  connected.  Mr  Seward  even  had 
the  intention  of  making  him  a  general,  and  employing  him  in 
the  organisation  of  a  great  general  staff,  which  was  an  utterly 
unknown  thing  in  the  United  States.  He  caused  him  to  con- 
fer on  that  subject  with  Senator  Wilson,  of  Massachusetts, 
who  was  at  the*  head  of  the  military  commission  of  the  Senate. 
The  affair  ended,  however,  in  nothing,  as  it  was  impossible  to 
make  people  understand  the  utility  or  necessity  of  a  general 
staff.  '  The  generals  had  all  their  staff,  and  staffs  were  nui- 
sances ;  they  required  practical  field  officers.' 

When  the  difficulty  of  raising  men  was  once  spoken  of, 
Colonel  Corvin  suggested  the  above  mentioned  idea  to  Mr. 
Seward,  who  was  rather  pleased  with  it,  and  thought  it  practi- 
cal. He  promised  to  speak  about  it  to  the  President,  and  one 
day  Salm  and  the  colonel  had  an  audience. 

The  colonel,  who  speaks  English  quite  perfectly,  explained 
to  the  President  his  and  Salm's  plan,  requiring  from  hiui  au- 
thority to  raise  twenty  thousand  men  for  the  army  of  the 
United  States. 

President  Lincoln,  his  knees  drawn  up,  his  head  in  both 
hands,  and  his  elbows  resting  on  his  knees,  listened  attentively 
for  about  a  quarter  of  an  hour.   "  When  the  colonel  had  finish- 


52  Ten   Years  of  my  Life. 

ed,  ls\x.  Lincoln  remained  for  a  time  silent,  then  at  once  he 
threw  up  his  long  arms,  calliug  out  in  his  peculiar  manner, 
'  Well,  gentlemen,  that's  a  very  great  affair  !  But  mind,  I  do 
not  promise  you  anything  for  certain,  I  must  first  speak  to  the 
Secretary  of  War  !' 

In  the  ensuing  conversation  he  touched  on  the  difficulties 
into  which  his  Government  might  get  with  the  European  Pow- 
ers, on  which  Colonel  Corvin  said,  that  if  he  gave  Salm  and 
him  authority  to  raise  twenty  thousand  men  it  did  not  include 
the  authority  to  raise  them  in  Europe,  and  what  they  thought 
expedient  to  do  for  the  purpose  would  be  done  on  their  own 
danger  and  responsibility. 

'  Bring  the  men,'  said  Mr.  Lincoln,  '  you  know  they  will  be 
welcome,  and  no  questions  asked.' 

*  Yes,  Mr.  President,'  answered  Corvin,  *  but  I  cannot  get 
them  without  money,  and  cannot  get  money  without  your  sig- 
nature, under  the  requested  authorisation.'  Mr.  Chittenden, 
then  '  Register  of  the  Treasury,'  to  whom  Corvin  had  commu- 
nicated the  plan,  had  said  that  his  bankers  would  be  at  the 
colonel's  disposition  if  Lincoln  would  give  such  authorisation. 

The  negotiations  ended,  however,  in  nothing,  for  Mr.  Stan- 
ton, who  was  utterly  disgusted  with  foreigners,  and  besides 
averse  to  anything  supported  by  Mr.  Seward,  would  hear  noth- 
ing of  such  a  proposition,  and  opposed  it  decidedly.  I  will 
only  mention  in  reference  to  this  affair  a  circumstance  which 
is  rather  characteristic.  The  Prince  and  Corvin  signed  a  paper 
promising  an  influential  person  twenty  thousand  dollars  if  the 
President  would  sign  the  requested  authorisation. 

While  Salm  was  busy  all  day  with  his  recruiting  affairs,  my 
life  in  New  York  was  by  no  means  agreeable,  especially  as  it 
was  midsummer  and  the  heat  overpowering.  I  accepted, 
therefore,  with  pleasure,  the  invitation  of  General  Blenker  to 
pass  a  few  weeks  on  '  Blenker's  Farm,'  near  Rookville,  in  the 
State  of  New  York. 

Dear  old  Blenker's  home  was  a  place  which  I  remember 
with  great  pleasure  and  affection.  I  have  seen  grander  country 
seats,  but  nowhere  have  I  been  received  with  such  heartfelt 
kindness  and  hospitality,  and  nowhere  I  felt  more  at  home. 

It  was  a  delightful  time.  Poor  Blenker  died,  I  think,  in 
December  of  the  same  year.,  I  am  glad  that  I  have  had  an 
oj:)portunity  of  doing  justice  to  his  memory,  for  he  has  been 


General  Hooker.  53 

reviled  much  by  his  enemies,  who  treated  him  most  unjustly 
and  shamefully. 

I  mentioned  that  heavy  fighting  was  expected  to  take  place 
soon  when  my  husband's  regiment  and  himself  were  disbanded. 
These  expectations  were  more  than  fulfilled  by  '  Fighting  Joe/ 
as  General  Hooker  was  called,  who  crossed  the  Rappahanoc 
at  Kelley's  Ford  above  Fredericksburg,  and  took  up  a  position 
near  Chancellorsville. 

Hooker,  whose  design  was  said  to  be  to  attack  the  rebels  in 
flank  and  rear,  was  attacked  himself  on  the  2nd  May,  1863, 
by  Stonewall  Jackson,  who  appeared  on  his  right  flank.  The 
right  wing,  consisting  of  the  nth  Corps,  composed  only  of 
German  regiments,  was  rolled  up  like  a  sheet  of  paper.  Fight- 
ing was  continued  the  following  days  with  no  better  success, 
and  Hooker,  profiting  by  an  opportune  storm  of  heavy  rain, 
recrossed  the  river  on  the  8th  of  May  at  night,  having  lost  in 
these  days  above  twenty  thousand  men. 

Hooker  was  a  great  favourite  with  the  Americans,  and  as 
they  did  not  like  to  lay  the  fault  of  this  great  disaster  on  his 
shoulders,  the  poor  Germans  had  to  serve  as  a  scapegoat. 
They  were  accused  of  cowardice,  and  everybody  was  wroth 
against  them  except  those  who  understood  things  better. 
These  said  that  neither  Napoleon's  Old  Guard  nor  the  best 
Prussian  troops  would  have  been  able  to  resist  this  flank  attack 
of  Stonewall  Jackson,  placed  as  badly  as  they  were. 

I  am  no  military  critic,  and  only  repeat  what  I  heard  from 
some  who  were  supposed  to  understand  war,  and  also  from 
German  officers  who  took  part  in  that  battle. 

Some  of  these  feeling  uneasy  at  the  position  of  their  corps, 
had  reconnoitred  on  their  own  account,  and  discovered  in 
time  the  approach  of  Jackson's  army  on  their  flank.  Seeing 
the  imminent  danger,  they  reported  it  at  once  to  General 
Howard,  a  very  devout  man  and  zealous  abolitionist,  with  only 
one  arm  and  no  military  head  ;  but  the  general  treated  their 
news  with  contempt,  arid  answered — like  a  Chinese — '  that  he 
expected  to  be  attacked  in  front.', 

Lee's  victorious  army  advanced  rapidly,  again  with  the  de- 
cided intention  of  transferring  the  war  to  the  territory  of  the 
Union  ;  part  of  his  forces  crossed  the  Potomac  on  June  i4di, 
and  entered  Maryland — just  as  they  had  done  a  year  before  ; 
and  towards  the  end  of  the  month  Lee  took  his  head-quarters 


54  Ten   Years  of  my  Life. 

at  Hagerstown,  only  a  few  miles  from  the  glorious  battle-field 
of  Antietam. 

The  consternation  at  Washington  beggers  description.  The 
President  called  out  a  hundred  thousand  men  more,  to  serve 
for  six  months,  and  to  be  levied  from  the  next  threatened 
States— Maryland,  Pennsylvania,  and  New  York,  which  State 
was  to  furnish  seventy  thousand  men. 

Many  sighed  now  for  Mvlellan,  for  they  discovered  that 
their  favourite,  '  Fighting  Joe/  though  a  very  brave  man  and 
good  commander  of  a  corps,  was  no  strategist.  At  the  eleventh 
hour  he  was  relieved  by  General  Meade,  who  at  once  attacked 
the  rebels,  the  nth  (German)  Corps  and  the  ist  being  in  ad- 
vance. Howard  had  to  fall  back  before  an  overwhelming 
force,  to  a  position  near  Gettysburg,  of  which  the  centre  was 
the  cemetery,  waiting  for  reinforcements.  A  great  battle  en- 
sued on  the  2nd  of  June,  and  the  Germans  fought  gloriously, 
well  supported  on  their  left  by  the  3rd  Corps,  under  General 
Sickles,  who  here  lost  one  leg  by  a  spent  cannon-ball 

The  battle  was  renewed  on  the  3rd  ;  the  rebels  were  every- 
where repulsed,  and  retired  on  the  morning  of  the  4th,  pursued 
by  the  victorious  troops.  Though  Meade  did  not  succeed 
either  "in  annihilating  Lee  or  in  preventing  him  from  recrossing 
the  Potomac,  and  retreating  towards  the  Rapidan,  he  was  not 
blamed  and  treated  as  a  traitor  as  McClellan  had  been,  but 
praised  deservedly  as  the  saviour  of  Maryland,  Pennsylvania, 
and  Washington,  though  he  had  lost  not  less  than  twenty-three 
thousand  men  in  dead,  wounded,  and  missing.  The  Potomac 
army  took  their  old  position  on  the  Rappahanoc. 

1  judge  it  necessary  to  give  a  short  sketch  of  these  impor- 
tant events,  as  there  resulted  from  them  others  which  occurred 
in  Nev/  York,  and  in  which  Salm  and  myself  were  involved. 

The  military  enthusiasm  of  the  people  had,  as  said  before, 
much  abated,  and  recruits  were  not  to  be  had,  notwithstanding 
the  enormous  bounties  which  were  paid,  Soldiers  the  Gov- 
ernment, however,  must  have,  and  a  draft  was  ordered.  This 
measure  was  very  obnoxious  to  the  people,  and  became  still 
more  so  to  the  poorer  classes,  in  consequence  of  a  most  foolish 
law,  which  permitted  drafted  people  to  buy  themselves  oft  by 
paying  three  hundred  dollars.     , 


Free  Negroes.  55 

The  Republican"^  Government  had  many  enemies  In  New 
York,  where  the  democratic  party  was  exceedingly  strong. 
The  above-mentioned  measure  furnished  them  a  welcome 
means  to  work  on  the  lower  classes,  especially  on  the  very 
numerous  Irish  element,  favourably  inclined  towards  the  de- 
mocrats because  they  hated  the  negroes.  The  cause  of  this 
hatred  was  envy  and  jealousy.  The  now  free  negroes  arrived 
in  great  numbers  in  New  York,  and  became  rivals  to  the  low 
Irish,  who  until  then  had  furnished  most  house  servants,  hotel 
v/aiters,  &c.  They  were  highly  indignant  that  the  negroes 
should  have  the  same  rights  as  themselves,  that  they  should  be 
permitted  to  ride  in  the  same  cars  as  the  white  people,  and  no 
longer  be  looked  upon  a,s  biped  cattle. 

New  York  was  then  utterly  void  of  soldiers.  All  militia 
regiments  had  been  sent  to  Pennsylvania  to  resist  the  invasion. 
The  police  force  was  not  numerous,  and  the  forts  were  garri- 
soned only  by  a  few  hundred  men.  The  opportunity  for  the 
bad  designs  of -the  enemies  of  the  Government  was  very  favour- 
able, and  they  were  not  slow  in  using  it. 

I  have  not  seen  the  Irish  at  home,  and  cannot  judge  about 
them  in  general,  I  have  become  acquainted  with  well-educated 
Irish  gentlemen  and  ladies,  and  found  them  most  intelligent 
and  agreeable  people,  but  the  low  Irish  rabble  of  New  York 
are  the  most  degraded  and  brutish  set  of  human  beings  I 
know;  I  shudder  to  think  of  them,  and  in  my  opinion  they 
stand  far  beneath  the  negroes.  They  may,  in  many  respects, 
be  more  highly  gifted  and  talented  than  those,  but  their 
behaviour  is  always  meaner  and  rougher ;  and  the  negroes 
have  besides  the  great  advantage  over  the  Irish,  that  they  are 
sober  ;  a  drunken  negro  is  a  rarity,  whilst  drunkenness  is  the 
prevailing  state  amongst  the  American  descendants  of  Erin. 

When  the  draft  commenced  on  Saturday,  July  ii,  in  New 
York,  everything  seemed  to  pass  off  with  unexpected  quiet ; 
but  on  Sunday  mischief  was  brewing,  and  on  Monday,  the  13th, 
a  storm  broke  loose,  which  only  found  its  parallell  in  the  events 
taking  place  during  the  reign  of  the  Commune  in  Paris. 

I  The  position  of  the  '  Democrats  '  in  America  corresponded  to  that 
of  ttie.'  '  Conservatives  '  in  Germany  ;  tlieir  extremest  Democrats  were 
called  Copperheads,  and  were  in  favour  of  secession  and  slavery. 


56  Ten   Years  of  my  Life. 

The  riot  commenced  with  an  attack  by  the  mob  on  a  draft- 
ing office,  which  was  destroyed  and  burned.  The  excitement 
spread  throughout  the  great  city,  and  a  sudden  fury  seized  the 
whole  low  Irish  population.  Its  only  object  seemed  murder 
and  plunder,  and  the  attacks  were  directed  especially  against 
all  persons  connected  with  the  draft,  republican  officials  and 
negroes,  but  also  against  wealthy  people  in  general.  The  fury 
increased  next  day ;  it  was  indeed  as  if  hell  had  been  let  loose 
on  the  unfortunate  city.  The  political  hue  of  the  riot  disap- 
peared ;  murdering  and  plundering  became  its  chief  objects. 
Not  only  men  took  part  in  it,  women  were  to  be  seen 
everywhere  foremost,  and  even  children ;  and  the  ferocity  of 
the  Irish  surpassed  anything  I  ever  read  of  Wherever  negroes 
were  discovered,  they  were  hung  or  otherwise  barbarously 
murdered,  and  women  stuck  their  knives  into  still  palpitating 
bodies,  and  made  cruel  fun  of  them,  A  coloured  orphan 
asylum,  containing  several  hundreds  of  coloured  children,  was 
burned,  and  children  thrown  into  the  flames.  Horrid-looking 
men  patrolled  the  streets  in  troops,  searching  houses  and 
plundering  them. 

For  four  long  days  and  nights  these  scoundrels  terrified  the 
.city.  No  decently-dressed  persons  dared  to  show  themselves 
^n  the  streets,  but  locked  themselves  up  in  their  houses,  fear- 
ng  every  moment  to  be  visited  by  the  rioters.  Poor  negroes 
hid  themselves  in  cellars,  where  they  remained  without  food 
for  many  days.  The  courage  of  the  mob  was  increased  by  the 
evident  inability  of  the  authorities  to  suppress  the  riot,  and 
also  by  their  want  of  decision.  Governor  Seymour  seemed  not 
to  be  well  disposed  towards  the  General  Government,  and  dis- 
approved of  the  draft.  Not  wishing  to  lose  his  popularity  with 
the  Irish  element,  he  acted  with  blameable  leniency  and  want 
of  energy.  The  police  and  the  few  troops  were  checked  and 
restricted  in  the  use  of  their  arms.  They,  by  order  of  their 
superiors,  had  to  use  only  blank  cartridges,  which  of  course 
had  the  same  pernicious  eftect  as  experienced  everywhere. 
When  the  Trihu/ie  office  was  attacked,  some  guns  were  placed 
in  position  ;  a  few  shots  with  canister  would  have  been  suffici- 
ent to  drive  the  cowards  howling  away  ;  instead  of  that,  the 
firing  with  blank  cartridges  encouraged  them.  The  building 
was,  however,  saved  by  the  efforts  of  the  police  force. 

Among  the  better  classes  of  Irish  were  some  who   disap- 


Iliots  in  Ncvj  York.  57 

proved  much  of  these  horrors,  and  amongst  them  was  Colonel 
O'Brien.  When  a  troop  of  rioters  approached  his  house,  he 
stepped  out  and  addressed  them  in  a  conciliatory  manner,  ex- 
horting them  to  desist  from  their  wickedness.  He  was  answer- 
ed by  cries  of  '  Down  with  him  !  he  is  a  traitor — kill  him  1' 
He  was  horribly  beaten  and  stabbed,  and  sunk  down  on  his 
threshold.  Then  he,  still  alive,  was  drag,q;ed  through  the  mud. 
All  entreaties  of  his  wife  and  children  were  in  vain  ;  the  .un- 
fortunate man  died  after  having  been  tormented  for  twenty- 
four  hours. 

The  fury  raged  in  all  districts  of  the  city.  If  the  mob  had 
finished  with  the  house  of  one  abolitionist,  some  persons  cried 
out,  '  Off  to  the  Seventh  (or  any  other)  Avenue,  to  the  house 
of  Mr.  X.' 

The  regiments  called  from  Pennsylvania  in  the  greatest  hurry, 
who  did  not  fire  with  blank  cartridges,  succeeded  in  mastering 
the  riot.  They  killed  a  great  many  people,  but  sustained  also 
heavy  losses. 

Salm  placed  himself  at  once  at  the  disposition  of  the  City 
Government,  collected  some  troops  from  among  his  recruits 
and  others,  and  led  them  against  the  rioters.  During  his 
absence,  and  whilst  such  excitement  prevailed,  I  could  not 
stay  at  home  and  tremble.  I  wanted  to  see  and  to  do — but 
what,  I  did  not  know.  To  go  in  the  street  in  my  usual  dress 
would  have  been  madness,  and  I  resolved  therefore  to  put  on 
a  dress  of  my  servant  girl,  Ellen,  who  was  to  accompany  me  as 
a  kmd  of  a  safeguard,  for  she  was  an  Irish  girl,  and  her  brogue 
was  then  the  best  laisser-passer,  \ 

The  scenes  I  witnessed  were  horrible  and  disgusting  at  the 
same  time.  All  the  lowest  passions  were  mifettered,  and 
showed  themselves  in  their  vilest  nakedness.  The  danger  in 
the  streets  was  great,  for  the  few  troops  and  police  were  scarce- 
ly to  be  noticed  in  the  surging  crowd,  and  they  were,  more- 
over, mostly  employed  in  protecting  the  public  buildings  and 
offices.  The  rioters  had  it  all  their  own  way,  finding  no  resis- 
tance from  the  citizens,  \\(ho  locked  themselves  up  in  their 
houses,  happy  if  they  were  not  noted  for  abolitionist  principles 
or  riches,  or  were  unconnected  with  the  draft.  The  poor 
negroes  darted  about  like  hunted  hares — men,  women,  and 
children  ;  and  it  was  heart-rending  to  hear  their  frantic  cnes 
and  look  into  iheir  horror-struck  faces  if  caught  by  the  pur.su- 


58  Ten  Years  of  my  Life, 

ing  foe.  To  interfere  would- have  been  useless  and  dangerous, 
as  was  proved  by  the  sad  fate  ?)f  Colonel  O'Brien,  though  his 
name  was  one  of  note  amongst  the  Irish.  Seeing  that  I  could 
do  nothing,  and  not  wishing  to  see  any  more,  I  was  glad  when 
I  was  home  again. 

Though  Governor  Seymour  opposed  it,  the  General  Govern- 
ment remained  firm,  and  the  draft  was  enforced,  and  strict 
measures  taken  to  prevent  the  return  of  such  disorders.  New 
York  soon  resumed  its  usual  aspect. 

During  my  stay  in  New  York  I  received  much  attention 
from  many  families.  I  cannot  mention  all  whom  I  remember 
with  heartfelt  gratitude.  I  must  not  pass  over  that  family  who 
contributed  most  to  making  my  rather  troublesome  sojourn  in 
New  York  agreeable ;  it  was  the  family  of  Mr.  James  Gordon 
Bennett,  the  late  well-known  proprietor  of  the  Neiv  York 
Hey-ald.  I  w^as  a  frequent  guest  at  his  magnificent  country- 
seat  at  Port  Washington,  and  at  his  palatial  mansion  on 
Fifth  Avenue. 

Mrs.  Bennett  was  a  very  distinguished  and  extremely  kind 
lady,  who,  having  lived  abroad,  had  adopted  and  acquired  the 
tastes  and  manners  of  the  European  ladies.  In  possession  of 
a  very  ample  fortune,  she  knew  how  to  employ  it  in  the  most 
appropriate  and  generous  manner.  Her  husband,  on  marrying 
her,  presented  her  with  one  or  two  advertising  columns  of  the 
Herald^  of  which  the  revenue  grew  with  that  paper,  and 
amounted  then  to  annually  thirty  thousand  dollars. 

Mr.  James  Gordon  Bennett  was  a  tall,  thin,  square-built 
Scotch  gentlemen,  of  great  energy  and  talent,  which  was  re- 
warded by  the  almost  unheard-of  success  of  the  New  York 
Herald^  the  most  enterprising  paper  in  the  world.  At  his 
recent  death  all  papers  published  his  biography,  and  I  may 
presume  that  he  is  generally  known.  The  last  expedition  in 
search  of  Dr.  Livingstone,  in  which  the  Herald  v\Qd  uniformly 
with  even  the  English  Government,  is  only  one  of  the  many 
samples  of  the  enterprising  spirit  in  which  that  great  cosmo- 
politan institution,  the  Nezu  York  Herald,  was  conducted  by 
its  creator.  He  was  besides  a  very  good  man,  and  extremely 
kind  to  us.     His  memory  will  always  remain  sacred  to  me. 

His  son  and  heir  to  the  many  millions  he  left  is  James 
Bennett,  who  was  then  a  nice  dashing  young  man.  Young 
Bennett  was,  and  probably  is  still,  an  eminent  sportsman,  who 


The  Spiritualistic  Epideinic.  59 

had  the  finest  horses  on  the  turf,  and  who  excelled  especially 
in  yachting.  His  daring  and  wonderful  trip  in  his  yacht  across 
the  Atlantic  will  still  be  remembered. 

Port  Washington  was  a  magnificent  estate  in  the  English 
style,  with  fine  grounds  and  an  extensive  park.  Being  a  lover 
of  dogs,  I  was  much  interested  in  the  live  museum  of  these 
animals  kept  by  Mr.  James.  He  had  not  less  than  fifty  of 
difterent  kinds,  all  kept  in  various  fine  kennels.  I  was  pre- 
sented with  a  pup  of  a  particularly  fine  breed,  a  black  and  tan 
long-legged  terrier,  with  a  wonderful  head,  large  clear  eyes, 
and  a  skin  like  velvet.*  As  it  became  a  most  important  mem- 
ber of  my  household,  tyrannising  over  everybody,  and  myself 
most  of  all,  and  accompanying  me  everywhere  like  my  shadow, 
I  owe  it  to  his  dignity  to  say  something  more  of  this  distin- 
guished four-legged  gentleman.  The  promising  pup  was 
solemnly  christened  '  Jimmy '  over  a  bowl  of  punch,  and 
taken  home  in  my  pocket.  After  having  been  submitted  to  a 
bath  m  my  washing-basin,  to  remove  all  reminiscences  of  the 
kennel,  the  interesting  infant  was  nursed  alternately  by  Salm 
and  myself.  We  tried  to  appease  his  well-developed  appetite 
by  means  of  the  milk-bottle,  but  he  despised  milk,  and  we 
were  in  despair,  for  he  whined  all  night.  How  happy  we  were 
on  discovering  that  the  little  darling  took  kindly  to  fried 
oysters  and  the  yoke  of  hard-boiled  eggs,  which  refined  taste 
was  a  sure  proof  that  he  was  no  common  dog.  On  this  simple' 
fare  he  was  raised  until  he  learnt  how  to  appreciate  roast  veal, 
which  latter  meat  is  still  his  favourite  food.  His  meals  agreed 
exceedingly  well  with  him  ;  he  grew  soon  out  of  my  pocket, 
and  became  a  beautiful  well-sized  dog,  and  even  now,  though 
in  his  thirteenth  year,  looks  like  a  canine  youth.  His  name 
will  cccur  frequently  in  this  book. 

Another  lady  from  whom  I  received  much  kindness,  and 
whom  I  remember  with  great  pleasure,  was  Mrs.  James  Speirs, 
the  wife  of  a  wealthy  broker.  She  was  an  English  lady  of  very 
good  family,  and  I  became  much  attached  to  her.  She  was 
very  lively,  and  at  that  time  an  enthusiastic  spiritualist. 

The  spiritualistic  epidemic  was  then  commencing  to  rage  in 
America.  One  heard  of  nothing  but  of  spirits  and  of  mediums. 
All  tables  and  other  furniture  seemed  to  have  become  alive, 
and  you  could  nOw  sit  down  upon  a  chair  without  a  spiritual 
suspicion. 


60  Te-ii  Years  of  iny  Life. 

When  I  became  acquainted  with  Mrs.  Speirs  she  was  still  in 
her  first  flush  ot  enthusiasm,  aad  most  anxious  to  convert  every 
one  to  her  new  creed,  which  upset  our  long-entertained  notions, 
and  was  in  direct  contradiction  with  the  teachings  ot  my  reli- 
gion. 1  therefore  treated  spiritualism  as  heresy,  and  defended 
myself  against  its  contagious  power.  The  more  I  doubted, 
however,  the  more  eager  became  Mrs.  Speirs  to  convince  me. 
Her  husband  being,  like  most  brokers,  more  of  a  materialist 
than  of  a  spiritual  turn  of  mind,  treated  these  new-fangled 
things  as  deception  and  humbug,  but  being  also  a  well-trained 
husband  he  let  Mrs.  Speirs  have  her  way,  comforting  himself 
with  the  hope,  supported  by  experience,  that  this  fashionable 
fancy  would  die  out  with  time,  and  give  place  to  some  other 
less  dangerous  to  the  brain. 

I  have  been  told  that  spiritualism  origmated  in  Germany, 
like  mesmerism,  which  has  been  connected  with  it.  Though 
this  belief  seems  to  have  died  out  in  Germany,  it  is  still  in  full 
bloom  in  America  and  in  England,  where  spiritualism,  in  all 
its  many  different  shades,  counts  its  believers  in  thousands,  in 
spite  of  common  sense  and  religion. 

It  would  be  almost  impossible,  and  lead  me  too  far,  to  des- 
cribe all  the  mmnces  of  this  sect,  which  includes  mesmerism, 
somnambulism,  free-love  people,  &c.  The  leading  feature  of 
this  creed  is,  however,  at  least  as-  I  understand  it,  the  belief 
that  the  spirits  of  the  dead  do  not  pass  from  this  earth,  but 
that  they  remain  here  amongst  us  unseen,  occupying  different 
spheres,  and  fulfilling  more  or  less  high  duties  according  to 
their  more  or  less  virtuous  life  in  the  body.  Some  who  did 
evil  have  become  bad  spirits  and  oppose  the  good  ones. 
Which  duties  are  allotted  to  all  these  spirits  of  the  different 
spheres,  I  could  not  exactly  make  out,  for  I  cannot  think  that 
making  strange  noises,  causing  tables  to  dance  and  performing 
all  kinds  of  useless  and  childish  tricks,  should  be  their  only 
occupation.  Though  I,  as  I  said  before,  resisted  this  epidemic 
on  the  ground  of  religion  and  common  sense,  I  could  not  help 
becoming  interested  in  this  strange  aberration,  and  feeling 
tempted  to  witness  some  manifestations  of  spiritualism.  The 
Prince,  however,  tried  to  dissuade  me  from  such  an  attempt,  as 
he  was  afraid  that  the  excitement  would  act  too  strongly  on  my 
imagination.  I  therefore  abstained  from  visiting  some  of  tho-e 
public  exhibitions  of  professional  spiritualists,  but  did  not  resist 


Several  Great  Mediums.  61 

the  entreaties  of  Mrs.  Speirs  to  have  some  spiritual  entertain- 
ment at  home,  against  which  good  Sahii  had  no  objection. 

Mrs.  Speirs  had  presented  me  to  several  great  mediums. 
One  was  a  '  knocking,'  another  a  '  tipping,'  and  a  third  a 
*  writing  '  medium.  The  knocking  medium — that  is,  the  one 
which  communicated  with  the  spirits  by  means  of  knocks, 
answering  her  questions  by  a  certain  number  of  them,  meaning 
yes  or  no — was  a  very  pretty  girl,  of  the  name  of  Anna  Sugden. 
I  have  forgotten  the  name  of  the  '  tipping '  medium,  a  lady 
who  made  the  spirits  tip  tables  and  other  heavy  pieces  of 
furniture  for  purposes  I  could  not  fathom.  The  '  writing ' 
medium  was  a  Mrs.  Heath  Adams.  She  caused  her  friends 
amongst  the  spirits  to  induce  others  to  answer  questions  in  the 
same  handwriting  they  once  wrote  v/hen  living  in  the  body  on 
this   earth. 

This  Mrs.  Heath  Adams  made  herself  quite  notorious.  She 
afterwards  went  to  the  Potomac  army  and  converted  the 
soldiers  to  her  belief  She  created  amongst  them  such  an  ex- 
citement and  confusion,  that  the  generals  could  not  tolerate  it, 
and  expelled  her  from  the  camp  as  a  dangerous  fanatic,  whose 
place  would  be  better  in  a  lunatic  asylum. 

One  evening,  Mrs.  Spiers,  three  mediums,  and  many  other 
ladies  assembled  for  a  spiritual  entertainment  in  my  lodging. 
We  were  sitting  round  a  table  in  a  larsje  room  full  of  expectation. 
The  gaslights  were  turned  down,  leaving  only  a  dim  light  which 
seems  to  agree  with  spirits.  The  spirits  were  rather  slow  in 
coming,  and  the  knocks,  manifesting  their  presence,  were  very 
faint  and  timid.  Miss  Sugden  explained  that  the  table  was 
'  not  yet  charged  sufiliciently,'  and  requested  us  to  be  patient. 
We  were  patient,  and  the  excitement  and  fear  of  some  of  the 
ladies  increased  every  moment.  At  last  the  knocking  became 
louder,  and  the  spirits  made  such  a  noise  that  I  really  was 
airaid  my  table  would  be  knocked  to  pieces.  Now  the  medium 
proposed  to  put  mental  questions  to  the  spirits,  on  which  they 
would  answer  by  knocks  meaning  yes  or  no,  which  was  done 
to  general  satisfaction. 

Though  I  could  see  the  ladies,  and  observe  their  movements, 
I  could  not  help  connecting  these  knocks  with  them,  and  ask- 
ing whether  the  powers  of  the  spirits  extended  only  to  the  table  ; 
the  medium  answered  that  1  might  wish,  only  in  my  thoughts, 
to  hear  the  knocking  anywhere  else.     I  did  so,  and  scarcely 


62  Ten   Years  of  my  Life. 

had  I  wished  to  hear  it  in  a  far  off  corner  of  the  room,  when  at 
the  desired  place  a  tremendous  noise  commenced.  Still  re- 
maining suspicious,  I  wished  to'transfer  the  knocks  to  the  ceiling 
and  had  scarcely  thought  it,  when  the  ceiling  resounded  with 
such  knocks  that  I  was  afraid  it  would  come  down.  That  was 
too  much  for  some  of  the  party  ;  they  shrieked  and  became 
faint,  and  the  gas  had  to  be  turned  up  again. 

When  their  minds  had  been  calmed  sufficientJy  by  persuasion, 
the  gas  was  turned  oft"  altogether,  and  we  were  sitting  all  in  the 
dark.  At  ®nce  lights  flitted  through  the  room,  shining  against 
the  wall  or  ceiling,  as  if  produced  by  a  dark  lantern.  We  felt 
as  if  something  was  blown  into  our  faces,  and  even  some  small 
bodies  like  fine  sand  were  thrown  against  them.  In  the  lights, 
flickering  about,  we  saw  spectre-like  hands,  and  the  excitement 
and  fear  became  so  great  with  some  if  the  )artv  that  the  gas 
had  to  De  relit. 

The  mediums  declare  ^  that  their  strength  was  exhausted, 
and  the  spiritual  entertainment  ended.  Notwithstanding  all 
1  had  seen,  I  remained  a  disbeliever ,  but  dear  Felix,  who  was 
afraid  of  the  impression  the  whole  proceeding  would  make  on 
me,  was  quite  excited  and  converted  himself 

Mrs.  Speirs  exulted,  and  was  rather  angry  that  was  such  a 
disbeliever.  She  regretted  nothing  more  than  that  she  was  no 
medium,  and  that  the  spirits  would  have  nothing  to  do  with 
her.  I  seemed  to  be  more  favoured ;  the  medium  at  least,  de- 
clared that  I  was  a  'seeing  medium.'  But  notwithstanding  their 
assurances,  I  could  see  nothing,  though  I  tried  very  hard  to 
please  them,  and  even  invented  visions  for  this  purpose,  which 
they,  hov^^ever,  soon  discovered  accordingly,  and  resented  as 
being  only  fun.  They  said  that  the  spirits  were  offended  at 
disbelief,  and  unwilling  to  perform  in  the  presence  of  scofters. 

We  had  several  of  such  private  spiritual  entertainments, 
which  amused  me  much.  Though  I  did  not  believe  in  any- 
thing; supernatural,  I  was  puzzled  as  to  how  the  things  I  had 
witnessed  were  produced,  for  what  I  had  seen  and  heard  was 
indeed  surprising  and  wonderful,  and  well  calculated  to  turn 
weak  or  imaginative  brains. 

Sometimes  things  would  rfot  go  on  in  the  regular  way.  The 
questions  were  answered  all  wrong,  and  the  whole  spiritual 
world  seemed  thrown  into  confusion.  The  mediums  were  not 
at  a  loss  to  explain  this  state  of  things.     They  ascribed  it  to  the 


A  '  Writing'  Medium.  ♦        G3 

influence  of  the  evil  spirits  who  counteracted  the  doings  of  the 
good  ones,  and  we  were  requested  to  assist  the  latter  in  their 
struggle  with  our  magnetic  influence.  We  succeeded  ;  the  evil 
spirits  were  driven  from  the  places  they  had  usurped,  and 
things  went  on  in  the  regular  spiritual  manner. 

It  was  most  curious  to  observe  the  writing  medium,  Mrs. 
Heath  Adams.  When  communicating  with  the  spirits  she 
was  almost  in  a  fit  ;  her  hands  moved  convulsively,  and  before 
one  could  find  out  how  it  was  done  answers  to  mental  ques- 
tions were  written  in  strange  hand-writings  on  the  paper,  often 
signed  with  the  name  of  the  dead  person  addressed. 

As  everybody  was  more  or  less  excited  about  these  spiritual 
manifestations,  Mrs.  Bennett  was  no  exception,  and  became 
curious  to  witness  some  ot  thenv  She  therefore  invited  a  noted 
professor  of  spiritualism,  whose  name  I  have  forgotten,  to  per- 
form before  a  company  in  her  house.  We  were  sitting  in  her 
front  parlour,  the  folding  door  of  the  back  parlour  being  closed. 
The  spirits  were  not  slow  in  obeying  the  summons  of  the  pro- 
fessor. We  saw  again  the  lights  and  also  the  mysterious  hands. 
On  being  requested  to  form  some  mental  wish  to  be  executed 
by  the  spirits — the  lights  being  turned  down  and  shining  dimly, 
Mrs.  Bennett  wished  to  have  a  very  large  music  book,  which 
was  near  the  piano  in  the  back  parlour,  under  a  whole  pile  of 
other  books.  She  had  scarcely  formed  that  wish  when  the 
heavy  book  fell  with  a  great  noise  right  before  her  on  the  table 
around  which  we  were  sitting.  Mrs.  Bennett  was  so  friglitened 
that  she  fainted.  She  afterwards  would  not  have  anything  to 
do  with  spirits,  and  never  assisted  at  one  of  our  entertainments. 

Mrs.  Speirs,  however,  became  more  and  more  believing,  and 
more  and  more  anxious  to  convince  me.  For  this  purpose  she 
proposed  a  private  meeting  at  her  house,  at  which  only  herself, 
Miss  Anna  Sugden,  and  myself  should  be  present.  I  accepted, 
and  we  were  sitting  one  evening  near  a  very  substantial  black 
walnut  table  with  heavy  legs,  the  gas  nearly  turned  off  The 
spirits  obeyed  Miss  Sugden,  and  awaited  her  orders.  She  re- 
quested me  to  wish  for  something  more  difficult  to  perform 
than  usual.  I  complied,  and  having  noticed  the  solidity  of 
the  table  at  which  we  were  sitting,  I  wished  that  the  spirits 
would  break  that  table,  that  is  break  one  of  its  heavy  legs. 
Miss  Anna  Sugden  consulted  with  her  familiar  spirit,  whose 
name  she  said  was  Seth,  and  on  being  asked  whether  he  could 
do  what  I  wished,  he  answered  that  it  was  difficult,  but  that 
he  would  try. 


04      "  Ten    Years  of  niy  Life. 

Very  soon  we  heard  a  sound  like  one  produced  by  distant 
rapid  sawing,  intennixed  with  tlie  muffled  knocks  of  a  hammer. 
This  strange  noise  lasted  for  nearly  half  an  hour,  when  sud- 
denly the  table  lost  its  balance  and  fell  against  my  legs.  On 
examining  it  at  the  light  I  found  that  one  of  its  legs  had  been 
sawn  off  The  cut  was  quite  smooth,  as  if  produced  by  a 
sharp  knife  or  an  extremely  fine  saw  ;  but  all  my  most  careful 
search  for  any  sawdust  was  in  va  in.  Mrs.  Speirs  was  trium- 
phant, and  quite  angry  with  me  that  I  still  did  not  believe. 

I  tell  the  facts  as  I  saw  them.  They  are  indeed  strange, 
and  I  cannot  explain  them,  but  these  knocking  and  noisy  and 
sawing  spirits  are  too  absurd.  When  I  soon  afterwards  went 
to  Washington,  Miss  Sugden  gave  me  a  letter  of  introduction 
to  a  celebrated  tipping  medium,  and  once  when  Salm  visited 
me  there  we  invited  that  lady  to  entertain  the  company  with 
her  spiritual  performance.  The  lady  sat  down  to  play  at  a 
very  heavy  piano,  which,  after  some  time,  commenced  movmg, 
two  of  its  feet  being  lifted  some  inches  from  the  ground.  We 
were  astonished,  but  the  gentlemen  present  laughed,  and  Salm 
said  that  he  was  also  a  tipping  medium,  and  could  perform 
the  same  feat  without  the  spirits.  He  sat  down,  and  after 
having  run  over  the  keys,  the  piano  moved  in  the  same  man- 
ner as  before.  He  had  simply  pressed  his  knees  under  it,  and 
lifted  it  on  one  side  an  inch  or  two.  The  detected  medium 
received  her  five  dollars,  and  retired  somewhat  confused. 

The  affairs  of  Salm  did  not  progress  meanwhile.  The  dis- 
inclination of  the  people  to  military  service  became  more  and 
more  decided.  The  drafted  men  were  employed  in  filling  up 
old  regiments,  but  to  form  new  ones  by  voluntary  enlisting 
was  nnpossible,  notwithstanding  the  liberal  bounties  which 
were  ofiered.  Poor  Salm  was  in  despair,  for  he  could  not 
brmg  together  the  required  seven  hundred  men,  and  had  only 
heavy  expenses.  I  felt  extremely  sorry  at  his  troubles,  and 
puzzled  my  brain  to  find  a  way  out  of  that  maze.  Having 
assisted  him  once,  I  thought  it  possible  to  do  so  again.  I 
consulted  with  my  spiritits  familiaris^  dear  old  Senator  Harris, 
who  suggested  the  idea  of  trying  with  the  Provost-Marshal 
General  in  Washington,  whom  he  knew  to  have  a  good  num- 
ber of  men  at  his  disposition.  I  eagerly  caught  at  that  idea, 
and  without  telling  Salm  what  I  intended  to  do,  I  got  leave 
from  him  to  go  to  Washington,  under  the  pretext  of  visiting 
my  sister^  who  was  living  there. 


65 


CHAPTER  V. 

The  Provosl-MarsTial  General  U.S.,  General  James  Fr3'--My  success — 
Governor  Yates,  of  Illinois — Lovers  of  spirits  among  high-spirited 
gentlemen — I  become  a  captain,  commanding  a  company — Life  in 
Washington — Madame  von  Corvin — Sanitary  arrangements  in  the 
United  States — The  Sanitary  and  Christian  Commissions — How  the 
Government  honoured  dead  soldiers — National  cemeteries — A  hospi- 
tal city — Salm  again  on  the  war-path — My  journey  to  Iv'^ashville, 
Tenn. — Returning  to  Washmgton, 

I  DO  not  exactly  know  how  it  happened  that  the  Provost- 
Marshal-General  of  the  United  States  had  men  at  his  disposi- 
tion who  were  not  enrolled  in  any  regiment,  but  it  was  so,  and 
that  was  sufficient.  This  important  position  was  occupied  ■ 
during  the  whole  war  by  Colonel  J,  Fry,  a  man  of  about  thirty- 
five,  who  was  a  great  favourite  of  Mr.  Stanton.  I  was  not 
personally  acquainted  with  him,  but  I  heard  that  he,  though 
very  strict  in  his  service,  was  also  a  good  and  kind  man,  who 
was  not  only  much  respected,  but  also  beloved  by  his  subordi- 
nates. It  was  some  comfort  to  me  that  he  was  a  married  man, 
but  still  my  heart  was  very  heavy  when  I  entered  the  War 
Department  and  sent  in  my  card  to  Colonel  Fry,  who  only 
some  time  afterward  became  a  general.  I  was  admitted  at 
once. 

Colonel  Fry  was  a  tall,  very  elegant  and  handsome  fair- 
baired  man,  with  a  rather  serious  face,  though  with  a  kind 
■expression.  He  was  very  quiet  and  measured,  rather  sparing 
of  his  words,  but  an  attentive  listener  to  all  I  said.  I  stated 
the  difficult  position  of  my  husband,  mentioned  the  services  he 
had  rendered,  and  his  grief  and  disappointment  on  account  of 
liis  being  prevented  from  taking  part  in  the  important  events 
going  on  in  the  theatre  of  war.     I  said  tliat  I   had  been  in- 


66  Ten   Years  of  my  Life. 

formed  by  Senator  Harris  that  he  had  men  at  his  disposition  ; 
and  as  they  had  to  be  placed  somewhere,  I  requested  him  to 
give  my  husband  the  preference. 

The  colonel  did  not  interrupt  me.  When  I  had  finished  he 
said  that  he  had  a  few  hundred  men,  but  did  not  know  yet 
whether  he  was  able  to  give  them  to  the  68th  New  York  Regi- 
ment ;  he  promised,  however,  to  let  me  know  as  soon  as  pos- 
sible. With  that  he  bowed  politely  and  I  left,  not  knowing 
whether  I  had  any  h(jpe  or  not,  for  the  face  of  the  colonel  was 
like  a  book  sealed  with  seven  seals,  and  did  not  in  the  least 
betray  his  thoughts. 

After  many  hours  of  anxiety,  having  received  no  answer  yet, 
I  became  quite  despondent  and  doubtful,  for  it  may  be  ima- 
gined that  there  were,  under  the  circumstances,  many  compe- 
titors for  these  recruits,  I  was,  therefore,  electritied  and 
buoyant  with  hope  when  at  last  the  card  of  the  colonel  was 
sent  in,  for  if  he  had  to  bring  me  an  unfavourable  answer,  I. 
reasoned,  he  would  not  care  to  communicate  it  to  me  in 
person. 

1  was  not  mistaken.  The  colonel  was  not  so  stolid  as  he 
at  first  appeared,  and  rather  pleased  with  the  zeal  I  showed  in 
the  behalf  of  my  husband,  and  he  promised  to  give  all  the 
men  he  had  for  the  68th  Regiment.  I  was  overjoyed  at  my 
success,  and  as  Vappetit  vient  en  inangeant^  I  tried  to  get  still 
more  men,  for  even  with  those  he  could  give  me  the  required 
number  was  not  made  up  yet. 

Though  the  colonel  had  not  more  at  his  disposal  at  that 
moment,  he  promised  his  assistance,  and  for  this  purpose  in- 
troduced to  me  his  friend  Mr.  Yates,  Governor  of  Illinois, 
who  at  that  time  was  present  in  Washington. 

Having  occasion  to  confer  frequently  with  General  Fry^and 
Governor  Yates,  we  became  good  friends,  and  I  passed  many 
agreeable  hours  in  the  company  of  these  distinguished  men. 
Society  was  at  that  time  somewhat  out  of  joint  in  Washington, 
for  nearly  all  the  leading  families  were  closely  connected  witl^ 
the  rebels,  and  had  left  the  city  and  closed  their  houses,  of 
which  many  were  seized  by  the  Government,  and  were  used 
for  public  purposes,  like  that  of  Mr.  Corcoran,  who  had  not 
joined  the  rebels,  however,  but  lived  in  Europe,  like  many 
persons  who  would  not  openly  side  with  any  party.  The  old 
Virginian  families  who  generally  passed  the  winter  in  Washing- 


Madame  c^e  Corvin.  67 

ton,  stayed  away  also,  and  the  whole  population  had  changed 
its  cljaracter.  The  hotels  Avere  then  the  centres  of  the  rather 
mixed  and  motley  society.  Washington  people  kept  far  from 
it,  and  the  temporary  inhabitants  amused  themselves  as  well  as 
tliey  could  amongst  themselves.  The  elegant  and  spacious 
drawing-rooms  in  Willard's,  the  Metropolitan  and  National 
Hotel,  were  always  crowded,  and  so  were  the  frequent  bails 
there,  called  '  hops  '  in  America. 

I  of  course  took  part  in  these  entertainments,  for  never  los- 
ing sight  of  the  purpose  which  brought  me  to  Washington,  I 
had  to  visit  places  where  I  had  an  opportunity  of  seeing  those 
persons  who  could  assist  me.  General  Fry  v/as  very  kind  in 
this  respect,  and  interested  Governor  Yates  in  my  behalf,  and 
nv)t  without  success.  The  Governor  promised  me  a  company 
from  Illinois,  but  said  that  he  would  not  have  it  commanded 
by  any  '  New  York  pumpkin,'  and  proposed  that  he  should 
make  me  captain  of  that  company.  He  kept  his  word,  and  I 
received  from  him  a  captain's  commission  and  captain's  pay, 
which,  he  said,  would  assist  me  in  defraying  the  expenses  I 
incurred  in  assisting  the  sick  and  wounded  soldiers,  in  whose 
treatment  I  was  much  interested. 

During  my  sojourn  in  Washington  at  that  time,  I  became  ac- 
quainted with  Aladame  de  Corvin,  who  had  come  from  London 
to  stay  with  the  colonel,  her  husband.  She  was  well  known 
from  the  '  Colonel's  Memoirs,'  and  I  have  only  to  say  that  the 
favourable  impression  produced  by  that  book,  in  reference  to. 
that  kind  and  amiable  lady,  was  fully  justified  on  nearer  per- 
sonal acquaintance.  Salm  was  much  prejudiced  in  her  favour, 
and  very  much  pleased  when  we  became  friends.  During  the 
revolution  in  Germany,  Mrs.  Corvin  had  gone  through  a  course 
of  surgery,  and  was  as  much  interested  as  myself  in  everything 
concerning  the  treatment  of  wounded  soldiers  and  hospitals. 

The  American  Government  and  people  did  their  utmost  for 
the  welfare  and  comfort  of  their  soldiers,  and  their  liberality  for 
this  purpose  was  unbounded.  I  have  already  mentioned  how 
the  Government  provided  for  them  in  the  field,  and  how  they 
tried  to  conquer  the  great  difiiculties  caused  especially  by  the 
great  distances,  the  bad  state  of  the  roads,  away  from  the  rail- 
road lines  or  navigable  rivers,  and  the  insecurity,  especially  in 
the  revolted  States. 

The  greatest  attention  was  paid  to  the  care  of  the  sick  and 


68  Ten   Years  of  ray  Life. 

wounded  soldiers,  and  although  it  was  difficult  to  find  as  many 
competent  surgeons  as  were' wanted  for  the  array,  amountiiig 
to  nearly  a  million  of  men,  scattered  over  a  space  as  extensive 
as  Europe  ;  though  experience  was  wanting  in  the  comraenc':'- 
ment,  the  practical  sense  of  the  Americans,  and  the  utter  dis- 
regard of  expenses  in  this  respect,  conquered  all  difficulties  in 
such  a  manner,  that  their  sanitary  arrangements  became  noted 
throughout  the  world,  and  foreign  nations  sent  competent  men 
to  study  them. 

During  the  late  French  war  I  was  exclusively  occupied  with 
this  branch,  of  which  I  shall  have  to  speak  more  amply  in  its 
place.  I  am,  therefore,  well  enabled  to  make  comparisons, 
and  to  judge  what  is  practical  or  not. 

In  comparing  the  sanitary  arrangements  in  Germany  and  in 
America,  one  must  not  forget  that  Germany  is  not  larger  than 
many  an  American  State  ;  that  the  whole  United  States  have 
not  more  inhabitants  than  Germany,  and  that  scarcely  half  of 
them  were  on  the  side  of  the  Union.  It  must  further  betaken 
into  consideration,  that  in  German}^  and  in  France  tovvns  and 
,  villages  are  close  together,  whilst  they  are  very  few  and  far 
between  in  those  States  which  were  the  principal  seat  of  the 
American  war.  Great  and  admirable  as  were  the  noble  efforts 
of  the  German  nation  in  behalf  of  their  soldiers,  the  Ameri- 
cans had  the  great  advantage  over  them  of  being  far  wealthier, 
and  that  they  without  difficulty  could  raise  sums  which  could 
■  never  be  brought  together  in  Germany.  The  Germans  made 
up  this  disadvantage  as  well  as  they  were  able  to  do  by  their 
personal  exertions,  of  which  there  was  far  less  in  America,  not 
for  want  of  enthusiasm  or  self  sacrificing  desires,  but  tor  rea- 
sons caused  by  local  circumstances  already  mentioned  before, 
and  besides  by  some  American  peculiarities. 

In  the  French  war  an  immense  number  of  ladies  were  em- 
ployed in  the  charitable  work  of  nursing  the  sick  and  wounded 
in  the  field,  and  their  self-sacrificing  endeavours  cannot  be  ap- 
preciated and  praised  sufficiently.  Their  assistance  would  have 
been  all  the  more  desirable  in  America,  as  all  able-bodied  men 
were  required  for  active  service.  Ladies  were,  however,  not 
permitted  to  attend  the  wounded  on  the  field,  cj.ad  I  think  that 
this  measure  was  wise  and  considerate,  as  they  would  have 
been  exposed  to  hardships  beyond  their  strength. 

The  convenience  of  ladies'  assistance  in  hospitals  has  been 


Sanitary  and  Christian  Coramissions.  C9 

discussed  frequently.  We  shall  see  later  how  it  worked  in  the. 
French  war,  and  have  to  speak  of  its  advantages  and  disadvan- 
tages, and  say  now  only  a  few  words  in  reference  to  the  man- 
ner in  which  some  of  the  latter  were  lessened  by  the  practical 
Americans.  It  cannot  be  denied  that  the  attendance  of  fine 
ladies  is  often  more  embarrassing  than  comforting  to  the 
wounded  soldiers,  who  mostly  belong  to  the  lower  classes  of 
society,  however  much  they  may  appreciate  the  gentle  ways 
and  the  soft  hands  of  female  nurses.  In  an  elaborately  and 
•fashionably  dressed  lady  a  wounded  soldier  will  rarely  have 
confidence  ;  the  appearance  of  such  a  nurse  makes  him  always 
uncomfortable.  This  feeling  was  much  lessened  by  a  rule  in 
force  in  America.  All  female  nurses  in  hospitals,  paid  or  vol- 
untary, servant  girls  or  ladies,  had  to  wear  the  same  simple 
dress,  resembling  very  much  that  of  the  Sisters  of  Charity. 
This  was  very  important.  The  soldiers  saw  in  them  only  female 
nurses,  whose  duty  it  was  to  provide  for  their  wants,  and  not 
ladies  above  them  in  station  who  condescended  to  interest 
themselves  in  their  behalf. 

The  two  great  societies  which  did  ftiost  in  supporting  the 
sick  and  wounded  soldiers  were  the  'Sanitary  Commission' 
and  the  '  Christian  Commission,'  whose  activity  extended  over 
the  whole  vast  theatre  of  war,  and  whose  efficacy  can  never  be 
praised  sufficiently.  At  every  station  and  military  port  were 
to  be  found  agents  and  depots  of  these  two  benevolent  associ- 
ations, each  of  which  had  many  millions  of  dollars  at  their  dis- 
posal. No  railway  train,  no  transport  steamer  was  to  be  found, 
on  which  were  not  to  be  seen  immense  piles  of  boxes,  ad- 
dressed 'Frederick  Law  Olmstedt,'  or  'Christian  Commission.' 
Mr.  Olmstedt  stood  for  a  long  time  at  the  head  of  the  Sanitary 
Commission,  and  he  had  the  merit  of  setUng  the  immense  ma- 
chine going.  He  was  still  a  young  man,  but  his  exertion  in 
behalf  of  humanity  exhausted  his  strength,  and  when  he  retired 
he  had  grown  old  in  these  few  years.  He  added  this  fresh 
merit  to  that  by  which -he  distinguished  himself  in  New  York, 
for  that  city  is  mostly  indebted  to  him  for  its  world-renowned 
Central  Park. 

These  commissions  provided  the  soldiers,  especially  the  sick 
and  wounded,  not  only  with  medicines  and  what  was  required 
for  their  necessiues  or  comfort,  but  even  with  superfluides  and 
luxuries.     It  is  true  they  had  immense  means,  and  could  afford 


70  Ten   Years  of  my  Life. 

to  be  liberal.  They  always  gave  with  pleasure  and  witn  full 
hands,  and  wherever  there  was' want  it  was  not  their  fault,  but 
that  of  those  persons  who  were  too  lazy  or  indifferent  to  ask. 
Very  often,  when  the  provisions  of  the  Government  failed  by 
some  accident,  these  commissions  opened  their  stores  for  the 
needy  heaithy  soldiers,  and  when  we  were  in  Alabama,  cut  off 
by  the  enemy  from  all  communications,  we  were  literally  sup- 
ported by  them.  We  had  fine  potted  victuals  of  every  kind 
coming  from  thousands  of  miles.  I  still  remember  our  aston- 
ishment on  opening  in  Alabama  a  tin  box  containing  the  most 
delicious  asparagus,  preserved  in  Brunswick,  in  Germany. 

The  agents  of  these  commissions  did  not  wear  fine  uniforms, 
nor  live  in  sumptuous  quarters,  nor  drink  claret  and  cham- 
pagne ;  they  did  not  inspect  the  hospitals  with  glass  in  eye, 
and  perfumed  handkerchief  to  nose  ;  though  mostly  gentlemen 
used  to  all  the  luxuries  of  life,  they  had  no  other  thought  but 
how  best  to  fulfil  their  voluntary  duty,  and  often  I  saw  them 
with  their  own  hands,  accustomed  to  the  finest  kid-gloves,  car- 
rying boxes  and  bales  like  common  workmen.  They  did  not 
do  so  in  hope  of  promotion  or  gain,  or  of  a  decoration  ;  their 
names  were  scarcely  known,  and  if  known  soon  forgotton  ;  but 
seeing  all  this,  I  learnt  to  love  and  respect  the  Americans. 

In  mentioning  this  I  will  not  infer  that  we  had  no  good  and 
self-sacrificing  men  to  assist  us  in  our  duty  in  the  French  war, 
and  I  shall  do  justice  to  them  at  their  proper  place,  but  not 
forget  those  gorgeous  drones  who  were  j^tigmatised  by  the 
nickname  of  Battle  Loafers. 

The  American  people  were  never  satisfied  of  having  done 
enough,  and  all  possible  means  were  employed  in  collecting 
money.  Great  sanitary  fairs  were  held  in  all  great  cities  ;  mer- 
chants and  manufacturers  sent  in  their  gifts,  some  ladies  their 
work,  and  other  ladies  attended  to  the  sale  of  these  articles, 
which  were  paid  for  extravagantly,  and  for  weeks  these  fairs 
were  crowded  to  excess  by  visitors.  One  fair  in  New  York, 
lasting  for  about  five  weeks,  brought  about  five  millions  of 
dollars,  and  comparatively  small  Washington  contributed  one 
million  and  a  half 

The  Government,  in  justice  to  this  spirit,  showed  themselves 
not  less  liberal  and  careful.  Though  bound  by  duty  to  save 
as  much  money  as  was  possible,  it  was  never  done  at  the  ex- 
pense of  the  soldiers,  and  especially  not  at  that  of  those  wl)o 


Conveyances  for  the  Wounded.  71 

had   become  sick  or  crippled  in  the  service  of  the  country. 
There  were  no  students  or  other  yoang  men  forming  voluntary 
companies  to  assist  on  the  battle-field,  as  we    had    them    in 
France,  for,  as  I  said  before,  young  men  were  rare  ;  but  not- 
withstanding this,  the  wounded  on  the  battle-fields  were  more 
prompdy  attended  and  far  better  cared  for  than  was  the  case 
in  the  French  war.     Each  battalion — about  equal  to  a  Prussian 
company — had  a  number  of  portable  bedsteads  or  stretchers, 
and  two  conveniently  and  practically  built  ambulances  ;  and 
whenever  a  battle  was  imminent  hundreds  of  these  vehicles  were 
brought   together   ready   for   use.     The   wounded   were   no^ 
thrown  into  rough  peasant  cars,  and  jolted  to  death  before  they 
reached  the  next  hospital.     Those  that  were  in  a  state  to  be 
transported  at  all  were  laid  in  a  covered  ambulance,  which 
rested  on  soft  springs,  was  provided  with  a  good  mattress,  a 
cask  of  water,  and  one  of  wine,  and  everything  else   which 
might  be  required.     Those  that  had  to  be  operated  on  were 
placed  in  large  hospital  tents,  each  of  which  had  room   for 
twelve  or  more  persons.     These  tents  were  built    upon    the 
battle-field  itself,  on  circumstances  not  permitting,  as  near  as 
5)0ssible.      They  v/ere  airy  and  most  convenient,  and  their  use 
X    has  been  adopted  in  many  European  armies.     They  are  pre- 
ferable to  any  other  arrangement  which  possibly  could  be  made 
fur  severely  wounded  men,  and  especially  to  those  low,  narrow, 
and  most  abominable  houses  to  be  found  in  small  German  or 
French  villages.     The  luxury  of  cleanliness  seems  to  be  utterly 
unknown  there,  and  the  smell  of  dozens  of  years  together,  with 
a  stratum  of  filth,  covers  the  walls  and  ceilings,  for  whitewashing 
is  never  thought  of     Country  people  who  live  much  in  the  air 
prefer  the  close  atmosphere  of  a  musty  room  as  a  holiday  re- 
creation, and  even  in  the  finest  weather  one  may  see  them,  on 
Sunday  afternoon,  sitting  close  together  in  some  country  inn 
room  enveloped  in  a  cloud  of  bad  tobacco- smoke.     To  sit  warm 
in  winter  seems  to  be  their  only  desire.     The   windows  are 
generally  as  small  as  possible,  and  they  scarcely  think  of  ever 
opening  them  to  let  in  air.     The  wounded,  placed  often  on 
mouldy  straw  on  the  filthy  or   partly-rotten  flooring,   are  as 
badly  off  as  possible. 

In  America,  where  there  are  not  so  many  villages  as  in 
Europe,  necessity  compelled  the  sanitary  authorities  lo  provide 
tor  them  otherwise,  and  this  was  done  extremely  well  in  spacious 


72  Ten  Years  of  iny  Life. 

tents,  which  gave  shelter  against  the  rain  and  permitted  the 
perfect  airing  so  necessary  to  i^cople  wounded  or  ill  with  typhoid 
fever.  Though  placed  now  and  then  on  straw  or  corn  husks 
on  the  ground,  they  generally  lay  on  the  portable  bedsteads, 
called  stretchers.  In  the  French  war  we  often  regretted  the 
absence  of  such  tents. 

The  many  navigable  rivers  m  America  were  also  a  great 
convenience,  and  o£  the  greatest  importance  in  the  war.  There 
are  very  few  rivers  in  Germany  or  France  v/hich  would  carry 
such  large  transport  steamers  as  I  saw  in  America,  even  on 
streams  of  which  the  names  are  scarcely  known  in  Europe. 
These  rivers  were  highly  important  for  the  transportati'^n  of 
tT*oops  and  provisions,  and  they  were  so  for  sanitary  purposes. 
Large  steamers,  such  as  run  on  the  Mississippi,  Missouri,  Ohio, 
Hudson,  or  on  the  Northern  Lakes,  were  arranged  as  floating 
hospitals,  offering  all  the  conveniences  of  a  great  hotel.  It  is 
difficult  to  give  Germans  an  idea  of  such  ships,  for  thousands 
of  them  have  never  seen  the  sea,  and  think  a  Rhine  steamer  a 
most  wonderful  concern.  What  would  they  say  to  ships  four 
or  five  hundred  feet  long,  on  which  stand  two-storied  buildings 
rerching  nearly  from  one  end  to  the  other,  surrounded  with 
verandas  and  balconies,  containing  hundreds  of  small  bed- 
rooms, and  halls  in  which  three  or  four  hundred  people  can 
sit  very  comfortably  to  dinner  ?  Where  the  shipping  on  such 
rivers  is  interrupted  by  rapids  or  rocks  the  practical  Americans 
have  built  canals  alongside  of  them,  as  in  the  case  for  instance 
with  the  Upper  Potomac  and  the  Suspuehjinnah,  and  many 
other  rivers. 

What  revolted  m.e  frequently  in  the  French  war  was  the 
manner  in  which  the  dead  were  treated  on  the  battle-fields. 
To  a  philosophical  mind  it  may  seem  very  indifferent  what  is 
done  with  the  cast-off  coat  of  our  soul ;  it  is,  I  think,  without 
doubt  indifferent  to  the  dead,  but  the  surviving  are  not  all 
philosophers,  and  have  a  reverence  for  their  dead,  and  not  the 
form  of  their  soul,  but  that  of  their  body  remains  in  their 
memory.  It  is  true  that  the  nations  who^e  state  of  civilisation 
is  still  on  a  very  low  step  make  the  most  of  their  dead,  but 
civilised  as  the  Germans  may  be,  I  do  not  think  that  it  is  in- 
different to  the  mothers  amongst  them  whether  the  bodies  of 
their  beloved  children  are  treated  as  unceremoniously  as  cattle. 
Even  if  it  speaks  unfavorably  lor  the  civilisation  of  the  Ameii- 


Embahning  Establishments.  73 

cans,  I  prefer  the  manner  in  which  they  treat  their  soldiers, 
who  shed  their  blood  for  their  country. 

It  is  true  that  in  the  American  war  it  occurrM  not  rarely 
that  the  wounded  had  to  be  left  behind,  that  they  perished 
miserably,  that  the  dead  could  not  be  buried  at  all  or  only  in 
haste,  so  that  the  bodies  were  dug  out  by  pigs,  as  I  have  seen 
happen  here  and  there  ;  but  such  cases  are  not  to  be  avoided, 
and  are  exceptions  ;  wherever  there  was  a  possibility,  the  dead 
were  treated  with  respect  and  love. 

After  a  battle  the  dead  were  collected  and  their  names 
identified  by  their  comrades,  or  from  letters,  &c.,  found  upon 
them.  They  did  not  wear  badges  with  a  number  round  their 
neck  like  the  Prussian  soldiers,  which  is  indeed  a  good  means' 
to  recognise  even  much  mutilated  dead,  but  which  was  intended 
only  to  keep  the  military  lists  correct.  The  American  soldiers 
were  not  thrown  indiscriminately  into  one  common  pit ;  they 
were  buried  one  beside  the  other,  and  a  stick  with  a  board  was 
fixed  at  the  head  end,  on  which  was  written  the  name.  State, 
and  regiment  of  the  soldier.  These  tablets  were  respected  by 
everybody,  and  I  have  seen  them  a  year  and  longer  after  a 
battle.  They  made  it  easy  for  the  parents  to  find  the  bodies 
of  their  beloved,  and  give  them'  at  home  a  decent  grave.  Oh, 
how  many  fathers  have  I  met  on  such  an  errand  ! 

Only  the  love  of  the  Americans  for  their  departed  made 
such  institutions  possible  as  were  established  in  the  neighbour- 
hood of  great  camps.  Whoever  thought  in  the  German  army 
of  an  embalming  establishment?  They  were,  however,  not 
exceptional  in  Arherica,  and  nobody  seemed  surprised  on  see- 
ing near  a  large  tent  a  signboard  with  the  firm  '  Messrs.  Brown 
and  Alexander,  Embalmers  to  the  Government.'  The  business 
they  did  was  very  extensive,  they  embalmed  thousands — pri- 
vates for  thirty  dollars,  and  officers  for  eighty.  The  embalmed 
bodies  were  placed  in  long  boxes  lined  with  zinc,  on  the  lid  of 
which  was  written  the  full  name  of  the  dead,  and  the  address 
of  his  parents.  In  the  box,  at  the  si.^e  of  the  dead,  were 
placed  the  papers  and  other  thmgs  found  upon  him  or  known 
to  belong  to  him.  Many  of  these  boxes  were  to  be  seen  on  all 
trains  or  transport  ships. 

But  not  only  private  piety  was  at  work.  Those  who  had  no 
rich  parents  to  pay  for  embalming,  or  relatives  who  cared  to 
have  the  body  home,  were  not  forgotten  either.     The  noble 


74  Ten  Years  of  my  Life. 

Governirient  of  that  noble  nation  paid  the  last  debt  of  respect 
to  their  dead.  I  think  the  idea  came  directly  from  good 
President  Lincoln,  a  man  than  whom  none  better  could  be 
found  in  the  world.  The  dead  were  carefully  collected  from  all 
batde-fields,  and  carried  often  long  distances  to  public  grave- 
yards, established  in  different  parts  of  the  country.  These 
graveyards  are  large  beautiful  gardens,  kept  up  most  carefully 
at  the  expense  of  the  Government.  They  are  surrounded 
with  walls,  provided  with  gates  and  good  buildings  for  the 
superintendent  and  gardeners,  and  with  a  finely-decorated 
memorial  hall.  The  graves  of  the  soldiers  are  placed  in  rows, 
and  at  the  head  of  each  stands  a  gravestone,  on  which  is 
inscribed  each  man's  name,  State,  regiment,  and  company, 
together  with  the  place  where  the  brave  soldier  died  for  his 
country,  and  underneath  is  written  always  an  appropriate  sen- 
tence or  verse  of  the  Bible.  Of  such  graveyards  several  are 
to  be  seen  near  Washington,  and  on  the  confiscated  estate  of 
the  rebel  General  Lee,  Arlington  Height,  which  has  been 
allotted  for  this  purpose,  rest  nearly  one  hundred  thousand 
dead  soldiers  !  Thus  America  knows  her  citizens  who  died  for 
the  Union. 

Hospitals  were,  of  course,  near  all  cities,  and  the  most  ex- 
tensive were  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Washington.  The  public 
hospitals  in  Washington  were  not  sufficient,  and  between  that 
city  and  the  President's  summer  residence,  called  '  Soldier's 
Home,'  was  to  be  seen  a  whole  city  of  neat  barracks,  which 
differed  very  much  from  many  of  the  would-be  imitations  I 
have  seen  in  Germany. 

This  city  of  the  sick  and  wounded,  though  standing  in  a 
nearly  treeless  plain,  had  not  the  appearance  of  a  vale  of  sor- 
row, but  made  a  rather  cheerful  impression.  There  were  tents 
and  houses  built  of  wood,  forming  a  rather  extensive  town 
with  wide  streets.  The  tents,  which  were  still  preferred  for 
certain  classes  of  patients,  were  arranged  still  more  comforta- 
bly than  those  in  the  field,  which  provided  only  for  the  most 
urgent  necessities ;  they  were  half  tents,  half  houses,  having 
all  the  advantages  of  the  tents -without  their  inconveniences, 
for  they  were  not  passtv^ere  structures  like  field-tents,  which 
might  have  to  be  packed  up  for  transport  at  a  moment's  notice. 
I  have  seen  such  so-called  tents  in  the  Holy  Ghost  Hospital 
in  Frankfort,  in  which  the  essential  conditions  are  ail  to  be 


Model  Hospitals.  75 

found  111  combination  with  an  elegance  and  comfort  which  not 
only  shows  that  that  hospital  is  richly  endowed,  but  that  it  is 
conducted  by  men  who  combine  knowledge  witti  real  love  for 
the  suffering.  They  form  indeed  a  pattern  which  deserves  to 
be  imitated  everywhere,  as  does  the  whole  magnificent  hospital. 

The  wooden  houses  were  not  very  large,  and  none  of  them 
contained  a  great  number  of  wounded.  They  stood  on  posts, 
and  their'  flooring  was  raised  one  foot  and  a  half  or  two  feet 
above  the  ground,  leaving  space  enough  underneath  to  keep 
out  the  wet  of  the  earth,  and  to  permjt  the  air  to  circulate 
without  producing  a  draught,  which  would  have  been  the  case 
if  they  had  been  more  elevated.  They  were  all  whitewashed 
and  provided  with  windows,  and  gave  the  impression  of  little 
friendly  country  cottages. 

Their  interior  corresponded  with  their  outside.  There  was 
not  the  chilling,  half-barrack,  half  house-of-correction-like 
appearance,  which  struck  one  not  rarely  on  entering  such 
places  in  Europe,  especially  if  built  under  the  direction  of  the 
military  authorities.  Though  they  were  kept  scrupulously 
clean,  and  everything  went  on  with  military  regularity  and 
order,  it  was  not^exaggerated  into  pedantry.  The  wards  looked 
cheerful,  and  rnade  an  agreeable  impression  on  the  minds  of 
the  wounded  or  sick,  who  all  lay  on  beds  provided  with  white 
light  hangings  (mosquito  nets),  protecting  them  against  the 
importunity  of  the  flies.  The  ventilation  was  perfect,  and  so 
was  the  heating  in  cold  weather.  In  these  places  the  soldiers 
lelt  comfortable  and  home-like. 

In  a  hot  climate  like  that  of  Washington,  where  the  ther- 
mometer shows  in  summer  not  rarely  roo  degrees  Fahrenheit 
in  the  shade,  strict  cleanliness  is  most  necessary,  and  the 
greatest  attention  was  paid  to  it.  The  wards  were  whitewashed 
every  four  or  six  weeks,  and  the  dust  taken  up  from  the  floor 
every  day.  It  was  not  done  by  swamping  the  floor  with  cold 
water  and  permitting  the  wet  to  enter  the  boards,  by  which, 
especially  in  cold  or  rainy  weather,  a  chilly  and  damp  air  is 
produced,  but  the  washing  of  the  boards  was  done  in  a  more 
practical  manner  with  hot  water,  which  dried  almost  immedi- 
ately after  the  cloth  had  passed  over  it. 

Lady  nurses  were  not  employed  in  these  hospitals,  and  I 
must  confess  that  they  were  not  much  missed  by  the  American 
soldiers,   who   generally  preferred   to  be   attended  by   men, 


7G  Ten   Years  of  my  Life. 

mostly  convalescent  comrades,  who  fulfilled  their  duties  in  an 
excellent  manner.  The  Americans  are  a  very  intellioent 
nation,  and  I  frequently  wondered  at  the  ease  with  which  they 
adapted  themselves  to  all  kinds  of  occupations.  This  may 
he  noticed  throughout  the  whole  country,  and  in  all  branches. 
Young  men,  who  have  attended,  perhaps  for  years,  a  shop, 
are  made  Government  clerks  in  the  Treasury,  or  the  Interior 
Department,  or  War  Office,  and  after  a  few  weeks  they  under- 
stand their  duties  quite  as  well  as  men  in  Germany  who  have 
visited  for  six  years  a  college,  studied  as  long  at  some  univer- 
sity, and  served  for  as  many  years  without  pay  in  some  public 
office  before  being  thought  fit  to  occupy  the  place  of  an  aus- 
cultator  or  assessor.  The  proof  of  this  is  that  affairs  in  the 
Ministries  at  Vv'ashington  are  carried  on  quite  as  well  and 
regularly  as  in  any  office  in  Gerraan}^  An  tntploye  in  Germany 
who  loses  his  place  considers  himself,  in  most  cases,  ruined 
tor  life,  whilst  an  American  Government  employe  in  such  a 
case — which,  in  fact,  occurs  very  frequently — thinks  very  little 
of  it,  and  looks  out  at  once  for  some  other  occupation.  No- 
body is  tied  tor  ever  to  a.  certain  trade  or  branch  ;  in  this 
respect  Americans  are  very  versatile. 

Rough  as  the  men  sometimes  appeared,  I  found  them  to 
become  soon  very  good  and  careful  nurses,  and  I  preferred 
them  greatly  to  the  coarse  and  selfish  women  I  saw  sometimes 
employed  in  Gernian  hospitals. 

I  know  very  well  that  good  discipline  is  most  es?jential  for 
an  army,  but  in  reference  to  hospitals  it  often  acquired  in 
Germany  the  character  of  pedantry.  Though  military  sur- 
geqns  stood  in  America  under  the  command  of  their  colonels 
or  generals,  they  were  far  more  independent  in  their  province, 
and  were  not  annoyed  or  harassed  by  martinets,  v/ho  wanted 
to  enforce  the  strictness  of  the  drill-ground  even  in  the  sick 
loom.  Nor  were  there  high-born  snobs  interfering  with  the 
cioctors,  always  hindering  them  by  their  pretentious  ignorance. 
]5attle-loafers  were  a  species-  of  bipeds  not  known  in  America. 
There  did  not  exist  any  object  for  them.  If  men  did  not  find 
a  reward  for  their  voluntary  activity  in  themselves,  they  did 
not  find  it  anywhere  else.  It  was  of  no  consequence  whether 
it  was  favourably  noticed  by  some  generals,  or  senators,  or  the 
President  himself;  they  could  not  give  them  sinecures  for  life, 
or  a  place  at  court,  nor  even  a  decoration,  for  all  these  things 
do  not  exist  in  that  country. 


Travelling  to  Nashville.  77 

The  principal  causes  why  the  sanitary  institutions  of  Ame- 
rica were  so  good  and  effective  are — the  practical  good  sense 
of  the  people,  the  wealth  and  the  liberality  of  both  the  people 
and  the  Government,  the  fact  that  military,  principles  do  not 
rank  there  before  those  of  humanity,  and  the  absence  of  all 
objects  al'uring  flunkeyism. 

The  68th  Regiment  N.Y.Y.  consisted  now  of  nearly  one 
thousand  men,  and  on  the  8th  of  June,  i864,  Salm  was  ap- 
pointed to  the  regiment  in  Nashville,  Tennessee,  belonging  to 
the  army  of  General  Sherman.     - 

In  July  I  travelled  to  Nashville,  accompanied  only  by  my 
maid  and  Jimmy  my  dog,  who  had  become  my  inseparable 
companion,  1  did  not  find  my  husband,  for  his  regiment  had 
marched  souih  to  Alabama,  and  it  was  not  possible  to  join 
him,  though  I  tried  everything  for  that  purpose.  The  country 
between  Nashville  and  the  Tennessee  river  was  in  a  very  inse- 
cure state,  bands  of  guerillas  making  raids  everywhere,  and 
destroying  the  railroad.  I  had  therefore  to  wait  patiently,  and 
not  liking  to  live  in  an  hotel  in  the  much-crowded  Nashville,  I 
found  lodging  and  board  in  a  nice  family  living  in  a  neigh- 
bouring village,  where  General  Charles  Schurz  had  his  head- 
quarters. 

Salm  managed  to  pay  me  an  eight  days'  visit  at  Nasliville, 
riding  all  the  way  on  horseback,  and  not  minding  the  dangers 
of  the  road.  I  wanted  to  run  the  risk  and  accompany  him 
back  on  horseback  also,  but  he  would  not  hear  of  it,  and  I 
suppose  he  was  right.  The  guerillas  were  very  ferocious,  and 
I  really  believe  that  my  being  a  lady  woulpl  not  have  protected 
me  against  their  outrage?. 

Salm  desired  me  to  return  to  Washington  until  he  should 
send  me  word  to  come,  and  a  short  time  after  he  had  left 
•Nashville  I  started  for  the  capital  of  the  Union. 


78 


CI-I AFTER  Xr. 

Madame  von  Corvin  and  I  travel  from  Wasliington  to  Bridgeport,  Ala- 
bama— American  railroads — Pittsburg — Meeting  Charles  Schurz — How 
he  was  received  there — I-ouisville,  Kentucky — Nashville,  Tenn. — The 
St.  Cloud  Hotel — Travelling  with  a  military  train — Why  I  stop  the 
train — Arrival  in  Bridgeport — The  camp  on  the  Tennessee  island — The 
hospital — Traffic  with  the  rebels — Salt  serving  instead  of  money — Neigh- 
bours— Expecting  a  rebel  surprise — Bridgeport — Colonel  Taylor — Rev. 
Gilford  and  family —Dangerous  roads — Fort  Prince  Salm — Life  on  the 
island —Excursion  to  Chattanooga — Major-Ceneral  J.  Steedman — The 
Match-bridge  at  Wliiteside — Lookout  Mountain — Fighting  Joe's  rock  — 
The  rebels  advancing — Salm  leaving  the  island  alone — Cut  off  from 
Nashville  by  General  Hood — How  we  passed  our  time — Visits  received 
and  paid — Generals  Brannon  and  Granger — Rather  dangerous — Plea- 
sure trips  to  Stevenson — Victories — The  68th  Regiment  leaving  the 
island — The  deserted  camp — Dangerous  position — ^Nightly  disturbances 
— Meeting  Salm  and  Steedman  in  Stevenson  after  the  victorious  battles 
— Christmas  in  Alabama — We  leave  all  for  Nashville — Colonel  and 
Madame  von  Corvin  return  to  Washington,  and  I  go  with  Salm  to 
Bridgeport — He  is  commander  of  the  post — His  raids  against  the  rebels 
— His  staff — Captain  Johnson  and  his  wife,  my  sister,  arrive — Difficul- 
ties in  reference  to  promotion — To  remove  these  I  am  sent  to  Wash- 
ington. 

Travelling  alone  was  in  those  times,  for  a  young  lady,  neither 
very  easy  nor  safe.  I  was  therefore  very  much  pleased  when 
Mrs.  Corvin  accepted  my  proposition  to  accompany  me  to 
Bridgeport,  Alabama,  where  Salm's  regiment  was  encamped  on 
an  island  formed  by  the  Tennessee  river. 

We  left  Washington  on  the  evening  of  October  i,  and  had 
the  good  hick  to  secure  a  state-room  in  a  sleeping  car.  These 
sleeping  cars  are  an  American  peculiarity  which  I  would  wish 
much  to  see  introduced  in  Europe.  The  sleeping  cars  are  not 
wider  than  the  usual  travelling  cars.    On  both  sjide^?  of  tbp  wav 


American  Railroads.  79 

in  the  middle  the  seats  are  constructed  in  such  a  manner  as  to 
be  transformed  for  the  night  into  tiers  of  beds,  each  provided 
with  curtains,  and  at  least  as  convenient  as  those  in  an  Atlan- 
tic steamer.  At  the  end  of  every  car  is  a  room  with  looking- 
glass  and  toilet  accommodations.  In  each  car  are  four  or  six 
so-called  state-rooms,  which  deserve  that  name  as  much  or 
little  as  the  narrow  boxes  so  named  in  ships.  These  state- 
rooms contain  in  the  daytime  four  seats,  and  are  separated  from 
the  middle  way  by  a  large  door.  At  night-time  the  beds  are 
arranged  with  wonderful  celerity,  and  blankets,  sheets,  and  pil- 
lows emerge  from  the  most  unexpected  hiding-places.  The 
state-rooms  have  sleeping  accommodation  for  four  persons,  the 
lowest  bed  on  the  floor  having  room  for  two  persons.  For 
travelling  families  these  state-rooms  are  a  great  convenience, 
and  they  are  not  expensive  either,  costing  for  a  night  only  four 
or  five  dollars  above  the  usual  fare.  Whoever  has  tossed  about 
a  night  in  a  railroad  car  and  remembers  his  feelings  in  the 
morning  will  understand  how  to  appreciate  these  sleeping  cars, 
strange  as  they  may  appear  at  first  sight,  especially  to  persons 
who  never  have  been  on  board  an  Atlantic  steamer. 

I  was  used  to  travelling  in  America,  and  acquainted  with  all 
those  things  which  astonished  Mrs.  Corvin,  who  was  now  for 
the  first  time  in  that  country.  The  woods  which  we  saw  on  our  way 
commenced  to  show  here  and  there  those  brilliant  tints  which 
are  a  peculiarity  of  American  foilage  in  the  fall.  Bright  yellow 
and  burning  red  are  prominent,  and  a  European  artist  who 
should  paint  such  a  wood  would  be  accused  of  exaggeration, 
and  lose  all  his  credit. 

Railroads  in  Europe  seem  to  be  considered  a  kind  of  luxury. 
In  the  commencement  not  so  much  importance  was  ascribed 
to  them  in  America  as  they  have  acquired  of  late  ;  they  were 
chiefly  valued  as  means  of  connection  between  the  water 
courses,  which  were  principally  used  for  the  transportation  of 
goods.  Though  these  ideas  have  experienced  a  change,  rail- 
roads are  still  in  America  only  roads,  and  to  create  them  as 
fast  as  possible  and  put  them  in  working  order  is  the  principal 
object.  It  only  the  rails  are  properly  laid  and  the  rolling-stock 
in  good  order,  everything  else  is  of  little  consequence.  There- 
fore w^e  do  not  see  in  America  depots  as  we  see  them  in 
Kurope,  costing  milHons ;  not  rarely  a   simple  shed,  offering 


80  Ten  Yeans  of  my  Life. 

sl-.elter  for  passengers  and  goods,  is  thought  sufficient.^  The 
building"  of  magnificent  bridges  absorbs  also  vast  sums  in 
Europe  ;  in  America  they  are  mostly  built  in  the  most  simple 
manner,  but  answer  their  purpose  as  well  as  the  most  expensive 
structures.  Bridges  are  in  existence  which  lead  over  several 
miles  of  wide  waters,  consisting  simply  of  two  rows  of  solid 
poles  on  which  beams  are  laid  for  the  rails.  Banisters  are  not 
to  be  seen  on  such  bridges,  for  they  are  not  of  the  slightest 
use  ;  and  looking  out  of  the  window  of  a  car  one  sees  neither 
the  rails  nor  the  poles  on  which  they  rest,  and  the  train  seems 
to  be  gliding  right  over  the  surface  of  the  water. 

At  breakfast-time  on  Sunday  morning  we  arrived  in  Altona, 
Permsylvania,  v.iiere  we  had  the  pleasure  of  meeting  Major- 
General  Charles  Schurz,  who  remained  our  travelling  compan- 
ion until  we  reached  Pittsburg,  where  he  was  expected  to  make 
a  speech  in  favour  of  the  re-election  of  President  Lincoln.  He 
was  received  at  the  depot  by  a  deputation,  and  the  hotel  where 
be  alighted  and  ]:!rocur£d  rooms  for  us  was  dressed  out  with 
garlands.2  In  the  evening  he  made  a  great  speech  before  an 
immense  crowd,  who  cheered  him  lustily.  After  this  great 
exertion  he  remained  more  than  an  hour  with  us,  entertaining 
us  with  playing  on  the  piano,  which  he  did  in  a  masterly  man- 
ner. 

The  train  went,  leaving  only  at  two  o'clock,  p.m.  We  had 
time  enough  for  a  run  through  Pittsburg.  It  is  a  peculiar 
city,  resembling  an  immense  forge — everywhere  high  chimneys 
topped  with  clouds  of  dark  and  dense  smoke.  The  view 
from  the  splendid  chain-bridge  along  the  river  is  interesting  ; 
for  huge  steamers,  resembling  immense  floating  houses,  over- 
topped by  the  turret  on  which  is  placed  the  helmsman,  dart  to 
and  fro.  '  Mrs.  Corvin  said  that  the  appearance  of  Pittsburg 
reminded  her  of  Manchester  in  England. 

On  INIonday  morning  we  arrived  in  Cincinnati,  a  fine  city, 
which  we  saw,  however,  only  when  crossing  it  in  an  opnibus. 
All  foreigners  visiting  America  for  the  first  time  are  amazed  at 

I  The  reader  will  remember  that  I  am  speaking  of  tlyrteen  years  ago. 
Now  I  hear  things  have  changed  much,  and  tlaey  have  in  America  depots 
and  bridges  surpassing  any  built  in  Europe,  even  in  architectural  splendour. 

A  sovereign  in  Europe  could  not  be  received  with  more  pomp  and 
ceremony  than  was  this  renowned  ci^i5'.en  in  Pittsburg. 


Narrovj  Esc(qie.  81 

i.lie  monster  steam  ferries,  with  which  I  was,  however,  famiHar 
from  New  York.  Mrs.  Corvin  was  quite  in  ecstasies  about 
them,  and  they  are  indeed  very  remarkable  vessels.  To  the 
right  and  left  are  extensive  halls  for  an  immense  number  of 
passengers,  with  all  the  accommodations  of  a  ship,  only  on  a 
larger  scale,  and  between  these  passenger-halls  is  a  free  space 
large  enough  for  several  omnibuses.  The  whole  immense 
structure  is  overtowered  by  an  open  kind  of  steeple,  crowned 
with  an  immense  gilt  eagle  or  Columbia,  or  Goddess  of  Liberty. 
There  is  placed  the  conductor  of  the  vessel  at  the  wheel,  his 
elevated  position  permitting  him  to  overlook  the  whole  ferry 
and  everything  before  him. 

Louisville^  the  capital  of  Kentucky,  where  we  arrived  in  the 
afternoon,  is  a  lovely  city.  The  streets  are  wide,* and  before 
the  houses  are  neat  gardens,  most  of  which  are  laid  out  taste- 
fully, and  ornamented  with  all  the  vegetal  luxury  favoured  by 
a  mild  climate,  permitting  pomegranate  trees  to  grow  and  bear 
fruit  in  the  open  air. 

We  left  Louisville  next  morning  at  six  o'clock.  The  rail- 
road passes  through  a  very  fine  and  romantic  country,  some- 
times up  steep  hil'.s,  two  locomotives  dragging  the  train  with 
great  difficulty.  The  tints  of  autumn  made  the  woods  appear 
quite  gorgeous,  the  sun  heightening  the  orange  and  red  to  ut- 
most brilliancy.  To  the  right  and  left  we  saw  whole  fields 
covered  with  tall  blooming  thistles,  and  between  their  fine  red 
flowers  were  sparkling  others  of  a  brilliant  yellow.  At  other 
places  the  ground-*was  covered  with  white  flowers  so  densely 
that  it  seemed  like  snow. 

We  had  a  narrow  escape,  for  an  hour  after  we  had  passed 
one  of  the  stations  the  rebels  stopped  the  train  which  we  had 
met  on  our  road,  and  burnt  it.  Nashville,  the  capital  of  the 
State  of  Tennessee,  very  romantically  situated  on  the  deep 
and  swift  Cumberland  river,  and  a  pleasant  town,  looked  rather 
dismal  on  our  arrival,  for  it  rained  as  hard  as  possible.  The  St. 
Cloud  Hotel  was  crammed  wnih.  officers,  and  we  were  the  only 
ladies  in  it.  I  had  been  there  before,  and  was  known  by  the 
landlord,  who  managed  to  procure  a  room  for  us.  The  whole 
hotel,  which  in  time  of  peace  might  have  been  nice  and  com- 
fortable, was  in  the  utmost  disorder,  and  disgustingly  dirty. 

There  was  nothing  that  could  detain  us  in  Nashville,  but  it 
was  not  so  easv  to  leave  it.     Trains  were  going  now  and  then 


82  Ten   Years  of  my  Life, 

south  to  Stevenson  and  Bridgeport,  but  the  road  was  full  oi 
danger,  'Guerillas  were  scourmg  the  country,  and  the  most 
appaling  reports  about  their  cruelty  were  circulated.  The  war 
had  assumed  a  quite  unusual  ferocity ;  the  Southern  people 
were  exasperated,  and  prisoners  who  fell  into  the  hands  of  the 
guerillas  were  mutilated  and  murdered  in  the  most  atrocious 
manner.  We  were  however,  resolved  to  nm  the  risk,  and  after 
having  procured  a  pass,  which  was  rather  difiicult,  we  went  to 
the  depot  next  afternoon,  when  a  military  .train  was  to  leave. 
We  were  fortunate  enough  to  meet  a  captain  who  had  been 
presented  to  me  in  the  hotel,  and  wis  on  his  way  to  Chat- 
tanooga. With  his  assistance  we  found  a  good  place,  and  con- 
gratulating ourselves  on  our  good  luck,  we  made  ourselves 
quite  comfortable,  when  we  were  turned  out  by  the  guard,  who 
cried,  '  Women  must  get  out,'  and  would  not  listen  to  reason. 
Standing  amongst  a  crowd  of  soldiers  and  lamenting  women, 
who  had  been  turned  out  like  ourselves,  we  had  little  hope  of 
finding  a  place,  when  I  fortunately  discovered  some  ofhcers 
who  knew  me,  and  smuggled  us  into  the  last  of  the  cars,  where 
we  were  seated  on  a  narrow  wooden  bench,  the  only  women  in 
the  train.  It  was  the  most  fatiguing  and  disagreeable  journey 
I  ever  made,  for  we  had  to  remain  full  twenty-four  hours  in  that 
situation.  The  weather  was  very  disagreeable,  and  we  felt  faint 
with  hunger,  having  nothing  with  us  but  a  little  cake.  In  the 
evening  the  captain,  who  was  on  his  way  to  Chattanoogaj 
brought  us  some  coffee,  which  was  accepted  very  thankfully. 
Our  journey  was  rather  exciting,  for  the  conversation  turned 
only  on  the  outrages  the  rebels  had  committed  quite  recently 
in  localities  which  we  passed,  and  we  had  to  pass  frequently 
through  dense  woods  or  near  overhanging  rocks,  where  guerillas 
might  be  concealed,  meditating  our  destruction.  The  train 
stopped  frequently  without  cause,  and  what  we  saw  from  the 
windows  was  not  calculated  to  calm  our  apprehensions.  Every- 
where up  the  road-side  were  half  destroyed  cars  or  locomotives 
lying  on  their  backs,  or  burnt-down  houses.  We  became,  how- 
ever, soon  used  to  this  state  of  aiTairs,  and  I  managed  to  sleep. 
I  was  aroused  by  Mrs  Corvin  with  the  distressing  news  that  my 
Jimmy  had  jumped  off  the  train.  That  v;as  a  calamity  worse 
than  the  rebels.  Our  carriage  was  the  last,  and  irom  its  plat- 
form I  saw  along  the  road  and  at  a  great  distance  a  dark  point 
moving  ;  it  was  poor  Jmimy,  striving  in  vam  to  come  up  with 


Bridgeport,  Tennessee.  83 

the  train.  The  ring  to  which  the  cord  is  attached,  running 
above  all  the  cars  to  the  locomotive,  hung  temptingly  right 
over  my  head,  and  knowing  the  use  of  the  cord  I  pulled  at  it 
lustily.  The  train  stopped,  and  the  captain  who  was  in  com- 
mand ran  anxiously  to  ask  what  accident  had  happened.  On 
hearing  it  he  was  inclined  to  be  angry,  but  seeing  my  distress, 
and  probable  being  a  lover  of  dogs  himself  he  relaxed ;  the 
train  stopped  until  my  pet  arrived  panting  from  such  an  un- 
usual exertion,  and  amid  the  good-natured  laughter  of  the 
soldiers  the  dear  deserter  was  restored  to  me. 

We  arrived  at  last  at  Bridgeport  station,  which  was  about  a 
mile  and  a  half  from  Salm's  camp.  Tlie  soldiers  of  the  port, 
on  hearing  my  name,  procured  at  once  an  ambulance,  and  at 
the  same  time  a  breakfast,  which  we  needed  very  much.  We 
arrived  soon  in  the  camp,  and  I  was  happy  to  be  again  with 
my  dear  husband. 

The  regiment  was  encamped  on  an  island  in  the  noble 
Tennessee  river.  The  railroad  going  to  Chattanooga  crosses 
this  island  by  means  of  two  bridges.  That  next  to  l>ridgej)ort 
is  a  remarkable  structure.  The  banks  on  both  sides  are  hidi, 
and  connected  with  beams  on  which  run  the  rails,  and  about 
thirty  feet  below  is  the  rather  long  bridge  for  horse  cars. 

The  island  was  not  large,  but  contained  two  or  three  farms, 
and  was  mostly  covered  with  beaudful  trees,  enlivened  by  a 
great  variety  of  pretty  birds.  The  ground  being  rather  liat, 
the  island  was  not  rarely  overflown  by  the  river,  and  large  tracts 
of  the  wood  were  always  under  v\^ater.  In  rainy  weather  it  was 
by  no  means  pleasant,  but  when  the  sun  was  shining  a  more 
delightful  place  could  scarcely  be  found  anywhere.  Right 
opposite  the  camp,  on  the  southern  bank  of  the  river,  some  dis,- 
tance  off,  rose  a  rather  high  wooded  ridge,  the  slopes  of  which 
were  always  haunted  by  rebels,  who  thence  could  look  right 
into  our  camp. 

This  camp  was  extended  on  a  meadow  not  far  from  the 
northern  bank  of  the  river,  and  was  skirted  by  the  wood.  It 
was  not  laid  out  with  much  regularity,  on  account  of  the  con- 
dition of  the  ground,  and  looked  quite  romantic.  As  it  was 
expected  that  we  would  remain  there  a  good  while,  the  soldiers 
had  made  themselves  as  comfortable  as  possible.  There  was 
plenty  of  wood  and  a  saw-mill  in  Bridgeport ;  boards  were 
therefore  not  v/anting,  and  many  shanties  rose  amongst  the 


84  Ten   Years  of  my  Life. 

tents,  serving  either  as  bureaus  or  as  quarters  for  officers.  At 
a  beautiful  place  from  which  th"e  camp  could  be  overlooked, 
Salm  had  built  quite  a  stately  building.  It  was  about  thirty 
feet  long,  stood  somewhat  above  the  ground  on  poles,  like  a 
sanitary  barrack,  had  in  front  a  verandah,  and  contained  three 
compartments.  The  largest  was  our  saloon,  and  to  its  right 
and  left  were  two  smaller  apartments,  one  serving  as  a  bed- 
room for  me  and  Salm,  and  the  other  for  Madame  von  Corvin. 
The  saloon  had  in  front  a  glass  door  and  two  windows,  and 
contained  also  a  fireplace  of  rather  primitive  construction,  for 
when  it  rained  hard  the  fire  was  frequently  extinguished  by  it. 

The  building  had  scarcely  been  finished  when  we  arrived, 
and  the  weather  having  been  very  bad  during  its  construction, 
it  was  still  extremely  damp.  Behind  our  palace  was  built  a 
kitchen,  and  near  to  it  was  put  up  a  large  tent,  which  served 
as  an  officers'  mess-room.  Farther  back  amongst  the  trees 
were  some  buildings  for  the  commissariat,  and  a  barrack  serv- 
ing as  an  hospital. 

To  visit  this  hospital  was  one  of  the  first  things  I  did.  I 
found  it  in  a  very  miserable  state,  for  the  doctor  whom  my 
husband  found  on  his  recent  arrival  with  his  regiment,  was  a 
rather  careless  man,  and  thought  more  of  his  own  comfort  and 
profit  than  of  that  of  his  patients.  The  steward  and  nurses 
were  not  better,  and  it  was  found  that  ihey  frequently  appro-, 
priated  the  good  things  furnished  for  the  sick.  These  were, 
of  course,  not  wanting  in  a  locality  such  as  described,  most  of 
them  suffering  from  ague  or  malignant  fevers.  I  was  indignant 
at  this  state  of  affaiis,  and  at  once  took  care  to  remedy  it. 
The  next  thing  to  be  done  was  to  procure  warm  clothes,  blan- 
kets, &c.,  and  also  wholesome  food  for  the  patients,  of  whom 
I  had  those  who  needed  it  most  transferred  to  the  larger  hos- 
pital in  Bridgeport.  In  that  place  I  found  agents  of  the  Chris- 
tian Commission,  and  on  applying  to  them  I  was  at  once 
provided  with  a  good  supply  of  clothes  and  eatables,  which 
were  the  more  valuable  as  the  provisions  for  the  soldiers  had 
at  that  time  run  very  short.  The  war  had  exhausted  the  coun- 
try ;  cattle  were  extremely  rare,  and  fresh  meat  was  not  to  be 
had  at  all  The  soldiers  had  to  be  satisfied  with  salt,  pork  and 
hard  tack,  for  bread  was  not  to  be  had  either.  The  officers , 
were  not  much  better  off,  for  in  the  commencement  the  inhabi-  ^ 
tants  of  the  country  were  very  shy,  and  did  not  like  to  come' 


^alt  instead  of  Money.  85 

near  our  camp  in  order  to  sell  their  chickens  or  butter.  S  ilm 
dined  with  his  officers,  and  if  some  fish,  bird,  or  fresh  butcher's 
meat  had  been  procured,  it  was  reserved  for  our  dinner. 

It  was  a  fortunate  circumstance  that  we  had  plenty  of  salt, 
for  we  could  procure  as  much  as  we  liked  above  our  allowance 
from  the  commissariat  at  Bridgeport  for  about  two  cents  a 
pound,  and  that  salt  was  the  article  most  desired  by  the  rebels 
around,  for  they  required  it  very  much  for  their  pork,  especi- 
ally^ in  warm  weather.  Before  our  arrival  salt  had  been  sold 
at  one  dollar  a  pound.  The  news  that  we  had  a  surplus  of 
this  precious  article  spread,  and  very  soon  we  saw  many  rebel 
women  arrive  who  were  eager  to  exchange  their  produce  for 
salt.  Though  they  charged  exorbitant  prices  we  did  not  mind 
it  raucli,  as  we  could  charge  for  our  salt  more  than  what  we 
paid  for  it,  and  still  they  found  it  extremely  cheap. 

These  poor  rebel  families  came  frequently  from  a  distance  of 
ten  or  twenty  miles  in  search  of  salt.  They  were  generally  on 
horseback,  riding  miserable  animals,  as  all  good  horses  had 
been  taken  for  the  army.  These  poor  peopPe  looked  very  un- 
happy, and  though  we  knew  well  enough  that  their  feelings 
towards  iis  were  far  from  being  friendly,  we  could  not  help 
pitying  them  :  they  were  pale  and  thin,  and  covered  only  with 
rags.  Even  women  who  were  still  well-oft"  and  ladies,  appeared 
in  the  most  wonderful  costumes,  for  the  supplies  of  goods  from 
the  Northern  manufactories  had  not  arrived  since 'the  com- 
mencement of  the  war.  Those  looked  best  who  wore  homespun 
clothes.  One  could  not  see  anything  more  melancholy  than 
such  a  Southern  family  in  our  camp.  They  felt  humiliated  that 
necessity  compelled  them  to  apply  to  us,  and  we  never  heard 
one  laugh,  nor  even  saw  them  smile.  They  all  behaved,  how- 
ever, with  a  certain  dignity  which  did  not  fail  to  produce  a 
favourable  effect  on  our  soldiers,  who  generally  treated  them 
with  kindness. 

Not  far  froiji  our  camp  a  man,  of  the  name  of  Hill,  had  a 
good  farm,  but  as  Mrs.  Hill  had  made  herself  suspicious  by 
saving  her  brother  from  the  rebel  recruiting  officer,  their  house 
had  been  destroyed,  and  the  whole  family,  consisting  of  six  or 
eight  persons,  lived  in  a  one-roomed,  most  miserable  log-house, 
which  scarcely  afforded  any  protection  agamst  the  inclemency 
of  the  weather.  They  had,  however,  succeeded  in  preserving 
a  few  horses  and  cows,  and  Mrs.  Hill,  a  rather  pretty  and 


88  Ten   Years  of  r,iy  Life. 

merry  yoimg  woman,   sold  ys  with  pleasure  some  welcome 
milk. 

There  lived  in  the  neighbourhood  a  few  farmer-families,  who 
submitted  to  circumstances,  and  entertained  a  more  iriendly 
intercourse  with  our  officers.  We  sometimes  paid  them  visits, 
which  were  not  without  danger,  and  had  to  be  made  always  in 
company  and  under  arms.  Guerillas  were  lurking  about  in  the 
woods,  and  it  happened  not  rarely  that  single  soldiers  were 
caught  or  even  killed  by  them. 

Orders  had  been  given  to  act  with  great  severity  against  such 
houses  as  were  reputed  to  serve  rebels  as  a  shelter,  though  it 
was  only  natural  that  the  guerillas  now  and  then  ventured  to 
visit  their  families.  Salm  had  to  burn  down  several  rebel 
houses,  though  he  did  so  with  great  reluctance.  The  inhabit- 
ants of  these  houses  were,  however,  rarely  to  be  found  at  home  ; 
they  had  their  spies,  and  were  generally  warned  beforehand. 
In  one  of  such  doomed  houses  was  found  onlv  a  rather  fat 
pointer,  which  was  taken  prisoner  and  appropriated  by  Salm, 
who  christened  him  Gerber,  which  was  the  name  of  his  rebel 
master.  .  •• 

Our  position  was  much  exposed  and  full  of  danger.  The 
island  and  the  bridges  were  well  guarded,  but  there  existed 
fords  which  were  better  known  to  the  rebels  than  to  us,  and  if 
there  had  been  an  able  leader  amongst  them  they  might  have 
surprised  us  without  much  difficulty,  as  they  from  their  moun- 
tains could  observe  everything  w^e  did  on  the  island.  Betbre 
assistance  could  have  arrived  even  from  Bridgeport  they  might 
have  killed  us  all,  and  a  few  thousand  men  might  even  have 
taken  that  place,  notwithstanding  its  fort,  before  succour  could 
come  up  from  Stevenson,  about  ten  miles  off,  where  a  great 
number  of  troops  were  assembled. 

The  pontoon  bridge  laid  over  the  Tennessee  for  araiy  pur- 
poses was  guarded  by  a  picket,  and  protected  by  two  good 
blockhouses  provided  w^ith  guns  ;  and  on  the  southern  side  of 
the  river,  on  a  commanding  eminence,  was  built  a  fort  called 
Fort  Prince  Salm.  Though  it  was  considered  to  be  rather 
strong,  it  was  overtopped  by  neighbouring  hills  very  favourably 
situated  for  rebel  batteries. 

Under  these  circumstances,  it  \vas  not  to  be  wondered  at 
that  frequently  reports  about  intended  attacks  were  circulated 
in  the  camp,  and  that  arrangements  were  made  in  case  of  a 


Excursions  in  the  Woods.  87 

surprise.  We  were  to  fly  at  once  lo  the  blockhouse,  com- 
manded by  Captain  von  der  Groeben,  which  was  about  a  gun- 
shot from  our  quarters.  These  alarming  reports  were  sometimes 
so  positive  that  they  somewhat  interfered  with  our  sleep. 

Bridgeport,  situated  on  the  high  northern  bank  of  the  Ten- 
nessee, consisted  originally  of  only  a  few  houses  and  a  saw- 
mill standing  near  the  river ;  but  in  war  time  it  had  become 
much  enlarged  by  a  spacious  field  hospital  and  many  other 
military  wooden  buildings,  mostly  serving  as  magazines  for  the 
provisions  and  as  dwelhngs  for  the  officers,  connected  with  the 
commissariat.  In  a  house  on  the  highest  point  the  commander 
of  the  post.  Colonel  Taylor,  commanding  a  Kentucky  regi- 
ment, had  estabUshed  his  head-quarters. 

The  only  family  unconnected  with  the  troops  living  at 
Bridgeport,  was  that  of  a  clergyman  of  the  name  of  Gilford. 
Their  dwelling-house  stood  on  the  top  of  the  before-mentionetl 
ridge,  but  being  there  right  in  the  midst  of  the  rebels,  and  not 
feeling  safe  amongst  them  on  account  of  his  Union  tendencies, 
he  had  left  there  and  was  living  now  in  a  wooden  house,  which 
he  had  made  rather  comfortable  with  the  furniture  carried  over 
from  his  dwelling  on  the  hill.  His  wife  and  grown-up  daugh- 
ters were  very  agreeable  persons,  and  we  passed  with  them 
many  pleasant  evenings.  They  were,  however,  not  the  only 
ladies  in  Bridgeport,  for  a  Captain  Armstrong,  of  the  commis- 
sariat, had  his  wife  with  him,  and  two  other  ladies  were 
attached  to  the  Christian  Commission, 

Though  Bridgeport  was  not  far  from  our  camp,  a  visit,  and 
especially  our  return  home,  was  not  without  danger.  Roads 
scarcely  existed,  for  what  might  have  been  called  so  had  been 
changed  by  the  heavy  rains  into  an  unfathomable  quagmire. 
We  had  therefore  to  drive  always  over  firmer  ground  ;  but  not- 
withstanding its  being  made  dangerous  by  the  many  stumps  of 
trees  projecting,  we  had  never  an  accident,  though  our  heads 
were  frequently  knocked  against  each  other.  The  most  dan- 
gerous part  ot  the  road  was,  however,  the  descent  to  the 
bridge,  and  I  still  wonder  that  we  never  rolled  down  into  the 
river. 

We  had  frequent  visits  also,  attempted  even  to  give  dinners, 
and  in  the  evenmg  we  had  generally  company.  We  played  a 
rubber  of  whiSt,  and  Groeben  brewed  a  very  acceptable  egg- 
nog  or  punch,  for  the   wine  furnished  by  our  sutler,  though 


88  Ten   Years  of  my  Life. 

cliarged  three  dollars  a  bottle  and  provided  with  flourishing 
labels,  was  a  miserable  comp''xmd. 

The  weather  had  become  extremely  fine,  and  we  made  many 
parties  on  horseback  and  in  carriages.  The  rebels  kept  quiet, 
and  none  of  our  apprehensions  were  fulfilled. 

Now  in  fine  weather  the  sojourn  on  the  island  was  highly 
agreeable.  We  w^ere  nearly  all  day  in  the  fresh  air  and  walk- 
ing in  the  woods,  which  were  made  lively  by  a  great  variety  of 
birds  v.'ith  brilliant  plumage.  There  were  some  small  scarlet 
birds,  which  looked  in  the  sun  like  a  ball  of  fire  ;  others  were 
beautifully  blue  arid  very  tame.  I  noticed  also  several  fine 
varieties  of  woodpeckers,  one  with  a  billiant  yellow  tail  tipped 
with  black,  and  another  light  grey  with  a  crimson  head.  There 
were  also  partridges  on  the  island  and  wild  pigeons,  affording 
good  sport  and  an  occasional  addition  to  our  bill  of  fare.  The 
jDeadow  in  front  of  our  camp  swarmed  with  a  kind  of  plover, 
called,  from  its  cry,  a  killedie,  v»-hich  cost  my  husband  a  good 
deal  of  shot — rather  an  object,  as  he  had  to  pay  for  it  at  the 
rate  of  a  dollar  a  pound. 

We  received  now  and  then  visits  from  the  generals  stationed 
at  Stevenson  or  Chattanooga.  On  Sunday,  October  23,  Major- 
General  Steedman  dined  with  us,  and  invited  us  to  come  and 
see  him  in  Chattanooga.  Our  party,  consisting  of  Mrs.  Cor- 
vin,  Salm,  Groeben,  and  myself,  started  on  the  Thursday  fol- 
lowing for  this  excursion.  The  accommodation  in  the  train 
was  very  imperfect.  We  sat  in  a  transport  waggon,  the  ladies 
on  bottomless  chairs  and  the  gentlemen  on  some  boxes.  The 
road  to  Chattanooga  is  very  romantic,  leading  through  a  fine 
but  rather  wild-looking  mountainous  country,  and  over  bridges 
which  make  me  still  shudder  in  thinking  of  them.  The  rebels 
had  destroyed  the  good  and  solid  ones,  and  they  had  provi- 
sionally been  replaced  by  others,  built  in  the  greatest  haste  by 
the  soldiers. 

There  was  especially  one,  known  under  the  name  of  the 
Match-bridge,  which  surpassed  anything  I  ever  saw  or  heard 
of  It  crossed  a  deep  and  wide  gorge,  and  was  built  of  wood 
— trellis  work — several  hundred  feet  high,  in  three  stories. 
When  the  train  passed  over  it  the  whole  flimsy  iabric  swayed 
in  the  most  alarming  manner. 

There  were  to  be  seen  here  and  there  small  houses  in  the 
midst  of  a  natch  of  cuUivated  land.     The  fields  were  all  fallow 


General  Steedman.  89 

for  want  of  hands,  many  of  the  poor  houses  empty,  and  only  in 
some  of  them  lived  some  wretched-looking  aged  men  or  women, 
who  scarcely  sustained  life,  having  been  cut  off  from  the  rest 
of  the  world  for  many  long  months.  The  trains  were  only  used 
for  military  purposes,  and  where  passengers  were  admitted  they 
had  to  secure  passports,  which  were  not  easily  to  be  had. 

We  required  some  eight  hours  to  reach  Chattanoga,  where 
we  arrived  at  eight  o'clock  in  the  evening,  where  we  were 
received  by  General  Steedman,  with  whom  we  remained 
together  in  the  hotel  until  clear.  * 

General  Steedman  had  been  born  in  Canada.  He  was  a 
man  of  about  fifty  years,  tall,  with  an  agreeable,  open,  bold- 
looking  face.  He  had  become  an  orphan  when  still  very  young, 
and  gone  as  such  through  a  great  deal  of  hardship,  which  made 
him  feel  very  kind  whenever  he  met  children  in  a  similar 
position.  He  was  in  general  a  kind  and  soft-hearted  man,  who 
liked  to  hide  his  weakness  under  an  assumed  roughness,  in 
which,  however,  he  was  not  very  successful.  When  still  a  youth 
he  had  taken  part  in  some  revolutionary  movement  in  his 
country,  which  made  him  remove  to  the  United  States,  where 
he  studied  law,  became  an  influential  politician,  and  was  even 
elected  a  senator.  When  the  war  commenced  he  made  up  a 
regiment,  and  was  major-general  before  we  in  the  East  had 
heard  anything  of  his  military  exploits.  He  was,  however,  a 
practical  man,  and  had  studied  war  with  great  advantage,  and 
whenever  he  had  an  opportunity  he  behaved  not  only  with 
great  courage  and  energy,  but  also  very  judiciously  from  a 
military  point  of  view. 

On  Friday,  26th  October,  at  nine  o'clock,  our  party  was 
ready  for  an  excursion  to  Lookout  Mountain.  Madame  von 
Corvin  and  old  Groeben  were  in  an  ambulance,  all  the  rest  on 
horseback.  We  were  waiting  for  General  Steedman,  when  he 
sent  a  message,  excusing  himself  on  the  ground  of  a  bad  cold 
and  important  business.  General  Sherman  having  telegraphed 
him  orders  to  send  off  troops  for  the  reinforcement  of  those 
stationed  at  Decatur.  Colonel  Moy,  the  general's  first  aide, 
went  however  with  us,  acting  as  a  guide. 

The  weather  was  wonderful,  and  the  sky  without  a  cloud. 
We  passed  through  part  of  the  camp.  Everywhere  we  saw 
destroyed  houses,  and  round  them  assembled  herds  of  oxen 
and  mules,  which  latter  did  such  excellent  service  in  that  war. 


90  Ten  Years  of  my  Life. 

They  followed  the  army  in  droves  of  several  hundreds,  guided 
by  men  on  horseback,  whose  skill  was  remarkable.  It  was  a 
pleasure  to  look  at  these  mules,  with  their  fine  deer-like  limbs. 
Thev  endure  as  much  and  more  than  horses,  and  are  far  more 
frugal,  keeping  in  good  condition  with  food  which  would  dis- 
able their  more  pretentious  half-brothers. 

Lookout  Mountain  is  an  enormous  rock,  rising  like  a  citadel 
from  the  valley  of  the  Lookout  Creek,  and  from  it  one  has  a 
view  over  Chattanooga  and  all  the  wide  surrounding  country. 
It  had  been  used  as  a  signal  station,  and  after  the  battle  of 
Chicamauga  it  was  thought  necessary  to  attack  this  formidable 
position,  which  interfered  with  the  connection  of  General 
Grant's  advancing  army.  The  honourable  but  difficult  task  of 
storming  that  rock  fell  on  '  Fighting  Joe.'  He  attacked  it  on 
the  24th  November,  1863,  with  ten  thousand  men,  and  though 
the  rebels  were  protected  by  breastworks,  and  assisted  by  a 
dense  fog  enveloping  the  high  summit,  they  were  driven  down 
the  eastern  slopes.  The  fog  preventing  Hooker  from  following 
them  into  the  valley,  he  remained  on  the  top  of  his  stormed 
citidel,  and  the  thunder  of  his  guns  proclaimed  his  glorious 
victory  '  above  the  clouds,'  as  poetical  reporters  said.  I  must 
not  speak  of  the  succession  of  battles  around  Chattanooga, 
which  terminated  the  campaign  in  that  district  in  1863,  lost 
the  rebel  General  Bragg  his  place,  and  relieved  General  Burn- 
side,  who  was  in  a  rather  awkward  position  in  Knoxville. 

The  slopes  of  the  mountain  ridge  are  covered  with  timber, 
which  on  a  fine  day  shone  in  all  the  brilliancy  of  the  American 
fall,  most  agreeably  contrasting  with  the  soft  blue  of  the  far- 
distant  landscape.  After  a  quarter  of  a  hour's  ride  we  arrived 
at  the  foot  of  the  steep  mountain,  two  thousand  six  hundred 
feet  high.  The  soldiers  had,  v/ith  a  great  deal  of  labour,  made 
a  road  leading  to  the  top.  Many  rocks  had  to  be  removed, 
trees  to  be  felled,  and  the  road  to  be  carried  in  zigzag  to  the 
long  stretched  top,  ending  with  Lookout  rock,  which  falls  off 
nearly  perpendicularly.  The  platform  on  the  highest  part  was 
wide  enough  for  our  small  company,  and  we  looked  with 
delight  on  the  beautiful  landscape  at  our  feet.^ 

During  the  French  war  I  ot'ten  regretted  the  absence  of 
photographers,  who  generally  arrived  too  late,  when  the  scenes 
had  already  much  changed.  In  America  they  were  alwa)'s  on 
the  spot,  and  we  owe  them   many  views  taken  immediately 


Hospitals  around  Chattanooga.  91 

after  a  battle.  Yankee  industry  is  never  asleep.  There,  on 
Lookout  rock,  we  found  of  course  also  a  photographer,  who 
photographed  groups  of  visitors  and  sold  views  taken  from  the 
rock.  I  still  have  one  representing  that  rock  itself,  with 
General  Hooker  sitting  on  it. 

After  havinof  feasted  our  eves  to  our  hearts'  content,  we 
selected  a  most  beautiful  spot,  and  lay  down  on  the  moss  to 
enjoy  the  exquisite  breakfast  which  General  Steedman  had  sent 
up,  together  with  a  good  supply  of  champagne,  which  made  us 
all  very  merry. 

We  returned  to  Chattanooga  at  seven  o'clock  p.m.,  and  found 
a  great  company  assembled  at  our  hotel,  6ut  retired  early. 

"  J  hough  amusing  myself  as  well  as  I  could,  I  did  not  forget 
our  sick  people  in  the  hospital,  and  next  morning  Mrs. 
Corvin  and  myself  paid  a  visit  to  the  Sanitary  Commission, 
from  whom  we  received  a  great  quantity  of  highly  acceptable 
things.  Though  the  hospitals  around  Chattanooga,  which  were 
mostly  on  the  healthier  hill-side,  required  a  good  deal,  the  pro- 
visions of  the  Commission  seemed  inexhausiible,  and  they 
never  grew  tired  of  giving  with  full  hands. 

Having  attended' to  this  duty,  we  paid  General  Steedman  a 
farewell  visit  and  took  lunch  with  him,  after  which  we  said 
good-bye  to  him  and  returned  to  the  hotel,  where  several  of  the 
generals  were  presented  to  us.  They  were  all  rather  busy,  for 
we  saw  five  thousand  men  passing  our  window  on  their  way  to 
the  railroad  ;  they  were  the  reinforcements  for  Decatur.  We 
left  Chattanooga  at  four  o'clock  p.m.,  and  arrived  in  Bridgeport 
without  accident. 

Bad  weather  set  in,  and  the  ground  around  our  house  became 
very  soft.  We  felt  rather  chilly,  for  the  wet  damped  our  clothes 
and  beds,  and  warm  punch  in  the  evening  was  very  acceptable. 
"We  had  always  a  few  guests,  and  the  commander  of  the  port, 
Colonel  Taylor,  came  frequently,  and  we  had  a  rubber.  On 
Sunday  v/e  went  to  church  in  Bridgeport  and  heard  rather 
pro.sy  sermons,  and  oh  the  other  days  we  had  enough  to  do 
with  our  hospital,  which  had  already  assumed  quite  a  different 
aspect. 

Towards  the  end  of  November  news  was  received  of  the  in 
judicious  move  of  the  rebel  General  Hood,  who  wanted  to  at- 
tack Tennessee,  and  perhaps  Kentucky  and  Ohio,  in  order  to 
compel  General  Sherman  to  give  up  his  dangerous  plans.     ThiS 


92  Ten   Years  of  my  Life. 

most  able  general  had,  in  September,  conquered  Atlanta 
(Georgia),  and  was  preparing  for  his  bold  march  across  the 
heart  of  the  enemy's  country  towards  Savannah,  Georgia. 

Preparations  were  made  to  meet  General  Hood,  and  as  it 
was  likely  that  he  would  try  to  take  Bridgeport,  we  expected 
every  moment  to  be  attacked  by  his  army.  Believing,  however, 
the  position  too  strong,  and  fearing  delay,  he  crossed  the  Tennes- 
see at  some  other  place  and  advanced  against  Nashville.  Gene- 
ral Steedman  received  therefore  orders  to  join  with  his  troops 
General  Thomas  in  that  city,  and  to  leave  only  a  few  troops 
to  protect  the  principal  points  between  Stevenson  and  Chatta- 
nooga. Salm  was  very  eager  to  take  part  in  the  expected  bat- 
tles, and  on  his  request  General  Steedman  detailed  him  on  his 
staft'.  The  general  telegraphed  that  he  would  arrive  in  the 
afternoon  ;  Salm  made  himself  ready,  and  we  waited  for  the 
arrival  of  the  troops  in  Colonel  Taylor's  quarters,  where  we 
whiled  away  the  time  with  eating,  and  drinking  Catawba  cham- 
pagne, for  the  trains  kept  us  waiting  until  eleven  o'clock  p.  m. 
The  general,  who  had  eleven  trains  with  him  crammed  with 
troops,  was  sitting  with  his  staff  in  an  empty  baggage  waggon 
on  trunks  and  boxes.  We  had  expected  that  his  troops  would 
make  the  road  to  Nashville  free,  and  intended  to  depart  for 
Washington  a  few  days  later.  We  therefore  were  by  no  means 
agreeably  surprised  on  hearing  from  the  general  that  the  train 
which  he  brought  with  him  was  the  last  running,  and  that  we 
would  have  to  wait  in  Bridgeport  until  General  Hood  was 
beaten. 

With  the  beginning  of  December  frost  set  in,  which  impeded 
somewhat  the  military  operations,  and  delayed  the  decision 
until  the  middle  of  the  month.  The  frost  was  of  unusual 
severity  for  these  latitudes,  and  though  the  weather  was  fine  ii 
was  cold,  and  we  might  even  have  skated  on  the  ponds  of  the 
island  if  we  had  been  able  to  procure  skates. 

During  this  state  of  suspense,  and  whilst  Hood  was  besieg- 
ing General  Thomas  in  the  tolerably  well-fortified  city  of 
Nashville,  we  passed  our  time  as  agreeably  as  possible.  'We 
received  now  and  then  visits  from  the  generals  left  in  Chatta- 
nooga and  Stevenson,  and,  amongst  others,  from  the  Generals 
Brannon  and  Granger,  whom  we  entertained  as  well  as  we 
could,  and  whom  Corvin  and  Groeben  astonished  by  the  won- 
derful punch  which  they  brewed  from  conimissariat  whisky, 


Glorious  Xeius.  93 

with   the  help  of  lemon-peel,  preserved   pine-apples,  Vanilla 
essence,  and  sugar. 

General  Granger  invited  us  to  interrupt  the  monotony  of  our 
life  by  visits  to  Stevenson,  which  were  not  v/ithout  danger,  and 
perhaps  for  that  reason  more  tempting.  Whenever  we  wanted 
to  make  such  an  excursion,  I  telegraphed  to  my  old  friend 
General  Meagher,  commanding  then  in  Chattanooga,  to  send 
me  a  locomotive,  which  he  never  failed  to  do,  in  spite  of  the 
L^rumbling  of  the  officers  in  charge  of  the  railroad  department. 
I  le  generally  sent  only  a  locomotive  with  a  so-called  '  caboose  ' 
attached,  and  perhaps  one  transport  waggon.  Stevenson  was 
only  ten  miles  distant,  but  the  road  passed  through  the  woods, 
which  were  always  haui\ted  by  guerillas,  who  were  more  lively 
at  that  time  than  ever.  We  took,  therefore,  the  precaution 
of  taking  with  us  ten  or  twelve  soldiers,  who  were  placed  on 
the  top  of  the  waggon,  and  who,  with  their  guns  ready,  watched 
die  woods  as  we  passed  them.  Such  a  trip  was  always  exci- 
ting, for  we  could  never  be  sure  whether  we  would  not  meet 
svith  some  wild  running  locomotive  or  get  off  the  rails,  for  the 
'  oad  was  in  a  fearful  condition,  and  our  train  rattled  along  like 
a  horse-waggon  on  a  corduroy  road.  The  movement  became 
sometimes  so  violent  that  the  iron  cooking-pots  in  the  caboose 
were  thrown  out  of  their  holes  in  the  stove.  We  had,  however, 
no  accident,  and  amused  ourselves  much  in  Stevenson,  thanks 
to  General  Granger,  who  treated  us  with  the  fine  music  of  his 
bands  and  most  exquisite  dinners,  for  the  General  was  a  km- 
vivant.  Stevenson  itself  is  an  insignificant  place,  stretching 
along  a  most  dreary  bare  hill,  but  which  looked  then  quite 
grand,  on  account  of  the  great  number  of  military  wood 
buildings..  ^ 

From  the  army  we  heard  only  vague  reports,  but  they  were 
so  contradictory,  that  we  did  not  believe  in  any.  At  last,  on 
the  1 8th  of  December,  news  arrived  of  great  victories  achieved 
by  our  army,  which  was  said  to  have  taken  forty  or  fifty  guns. 
Hood's  army  was  reported  as  being  in  full  retreat,  and  we 
expected  them  every  moment  to  appear  before  Bridgeport. 
Tv\'o  gunboats  arrived  for  the  protection  of  our  island,  and 
Colonels Tavlor  and Corvin  werebusv  with  strenCTthenin?  Bridge-  * 
port  as  much  as  possible  and  in  disposing  of  the  few  troops 
left  in  that  place. 

The  glorious  news  was  confirmed  ;  General  Thomas  had 


94*  ^  Ten   Years  of  my  Life. 

beaten  Hood,  on  the  15th  and  i6lh,  in  two  great  battles  near 
Nashville,  and  captured  fift}^  guns  and  about  five  thousand 
prisoners.  At  the  same  time,  the  68th  Regiment  received 
orders  to  march  to  Stevenson,  and  wait  their  for  their  colonel 
and  General  Steedman.  This  order  of  course  produced  great 
excitement,  fot  the  regiment  had  been  on  the  island  about  nine 
months,  and  everything  the  soldiers  had  arranged  for  their 
comfort  had  to  be  left  behind,  but  General  Steedman  promised 
to  remove  all  necessary  things  to  Whiteside,  where  the  regi- 
ment was  to  be  stationed  afterwards. 

The  detachments  from  Fort  Prince  Salm,  Whiteside,  and 
Shellmound  had  to  be  recalled,  and  it  was  rather  late  in  the 
afternoon  before  all  was  read} .  We  prepared  a  farewell  colla- 
tion for  our  officers,  and  saw  them  off  with  regret,  and  not 
without  apprehension,  for  in  Bridgeport  remained  only  a  very 
small  force,  and  on  our  island,  except  the  sick,  not  more  than 
twenty  men  as  a  guard  for  the  stores.  The  gunboats  had  dis- 
appeared also,  and  we  were  indeed  at  the  mercy  of  any  strag- 
gling rebel  party  that  might  take  it  into  their  heads  to  pay  us 
a  visit. 

The  empty  camp  offered  a  very  cheerless  aspect  the  day 
afterwards,  and  the  more  so  on  account  of  the  rain  which 
poured  down  in  torrents.  Masterless  dogs  and  cats  prowled 
about  the  empty  shanties,  and  we  felt  extremely  miserable  in 
our  quarters.  The  rain  extinguished  the  fire  in  the  chimney, 
filling  with  smoke  the  house,  in  which  wet  clothes  were  hang- 
ing, for  I  had  ordered  a  great  washing.  The  night  was  pitch 
dark,  and  the  rain  still  streaming  down.  Hearing  some  noise 
close  to  the  house,  I  went  out  to  listen  on  the  verandah,  when 
I  saw  the  shadow-like  figures  of  some  men  on  horseback  right 
before  me.  One  of  them  asked  with  a  deep  voice  whether 
that  was  a  forsaken  camp  ? — a  rather  suspicious  question, 
which  did  not  fail  to  give  us  some  alarm.  Colonel  Corvin  put 
on  his  india-rubber  coat,  and  dived,  revolver  in  hand,  into  the 
darkness  to  reconnoitre.  The  horsemen  were  no  rebels,  as  we 
feared,  but  belonged  to  the  Union  army,  and  were  on  the  look- 
out for  some  shelter  for  their  sick  officer.  They  had  established 
themselves  in  a  shanty  belonging  to  our  lieutenant-colonel. 

The  rains  ceased,  and  with  their  disappearance  returned  our 
cheerfulness.  The  Vv^eather  was  indeed  delightful.  When  we 
received  the  news  that  General  Steedman  with  fifteen  trains 


Cordial  Reception  in  Stevenson.  95 

would  arrive  on  the  23rd  in  Stevenson,  and  that  he  expected 
to  find  us  all  there,  I  was  exceedinijly  glad  and  in  the  best  of 
humours,  for  I  was  to  see  again  my  dear  husband  after  a  time 
full  of  danger.  It  was  good  that  I  received  the  news  of  the 
battles  fought  after  they  were  over,  and  together  with  that  of 
Salm's  safety,  or  I  would  have  felt  great  anxiety. 

We  were  received  in  Stevenson  most  cordially.  Steedman 
and  Salm  looked  more  like  robbers  than  officers,  for  they  had 
gone  through  a  hard  time,  and  had  no  leisure  to  think  of  their 
toilet.  Their  beards  were  more  than  a  week  old,  and  their 
uniforms  covered  with  mud  and  torn  to  rags. 

Salm  was  beaming  with  happiness,  not  alone  on  account  of 
our  meeting,  but  because  he  at  last  had  had  fighting  to  his 
heart's  content,  and  an  opportunity  of  distinguishing  himself 
During  the  battles  Steedman  had  given  him  a  command,  and 
could  not  find  words  jnough  to  praise  his  bravery  and  good 
behaviour.  He  regretted  that  decorations  were  not  distributed 
in  America,  for  above  all  Salm  would  have  deserved  being 
distinguished  by  such  a  decoration.  He  said,  however,  that 
he  would  take  care  to  place  him  in  conimand  of  a  brigade, 
and  cause  General  Thomas  to  recommend  him  for  promotion. 
We  could  not  stay  in  Stevenson,  and  returned  in  the  afternoon 
to  Bridgeport,  feeling  extremely  proud  and  happy. 

The  weather  remained  beautiful  for  several  days,  and  it  was 
as  warm  as  in  spring.  To  celebrate  Christmas  and  the  victo- 
ries, we  dressed  out  our  hou?;e  and  its  verandah  with  holly,  and 
the  tame  blue-birds  came  picking  the  red  berries.  Corvin 
with  some  men  went  into  the  wood  for  mistletoe,  which  was 
found  there  in  such  luxuriance  as  I  have  not  seen  anywhere. 
They  brought  home  one  bush  that  was  at  least  four  feet  in 
diameter,  and  its  berries  were  as  large  as  white  currants.  We 
passed  a  very  merry  Christmas  Eve  at  Gilford's,  in  Bridgeport, 
who  gave  us  a  splendid  supper.  Corvin  brewed  several  gallons 
of  much  appreciated  whisky  punch,  and  I  am  sure  the  house 
of  the  worthy  clergyman  had  never  before  had  a  merrier  night. 
There  was  a  piano,  and  we  had  a  good  deal  of  singing  and 
dancing,  and  games  of  every  kind. 

On  Christmas  Day  we  arranged  a  similar  festival  in  our 
quarters  ;  in  short,  we  had  a  nice  time,  and  were  as  happy  as 
could  be. 

Tne  road  being  free  now,  Mrs.  Corvin  and  her  husband  pre- 


96  '  Ten   Years  of  my  Life. 

pared  to  leave  for  Washington,  and  I  resolved  to  accompany 
them  as  far  as  Nashville,  or  evtn  to  Washington,  according  to 
the  news  from  Felix.  On  the  4th  of  January,  1865,  General 
Brannon  was  to  go  by  special  train  to  Nashville,  and  offered 
to  take  us  with  him,  an  offer  that  was  thankfully  accepted.  We 
arrived  on  the  5th  at  the  St.  Cloud  Hotel,  where  I  found  many 
old  acquaintances. 

Receiving  a  despatch  from  Groeben,  informing  me  that  my 
husband  would  arrive  on  January  8th,  in  Bridgeport,  with  his 
brigade,  I  decided  on  returning  to  that  place  next  morning 
with  a  hospital  train,  and  Colonel  and  Madame  Corvin  left  for 
Washington. 

The  Americans  are  an  eminently  practical  and  sensible  peo- 
ple ;  everything  they  do  is  to  the  purpose,  and  economy  only 
a  second-rate  consideration.  In  other  countries  this  is  the 
principal  object,  and  most  institutions  that  are  imperfect  are 
so  on  account  of  stinginess,  which,  after  all,  causes  the  greatest 
waste  of  money.  The  American  hospital  trains  are  perfection. 
There  is  everything  which  can  possibly  be  desired  by  wounded 
men  and  the  surgeons  who  treat  them.  They  are  spacious  and 
airy,  and  provided  with  all  the  comforts  of  a  hospital.  The 
waggons  are  of  course  connected  in  such  a  manner  as  to  per- 
mit a  free  communication  along  the  whole  train.  There  are 
two  kitchens,  one  for  the  rooking  of  food,  the  other  for  the 
requirements  of  nursing.  Those  who  are  severely  wounded  lie 
in  beds  standing  on  the  tloor  ot  the  waggon,  and  have  no 
other  beds  above  them.  In  other  waggons  two  beds  are 
placed,  one  above  the  other.  They  are  arranged  in  such  a 
manner  that  the  wounded  do  not  suffer  frorn  the  movement,  by 
means  of  springs  and  elastic  bands  connected  with  the  beds. 
Should  another  war  ever  occur  in  Europe,  the  sanitary  authori- 
ties would  do  well  to  study  and  imitate  the  American  pattern, 
and  use  such  hospital  trains  more  frequently  than  has  been 
done  in  the  French  war.  In  this  latter  war  it  was  distressing 
to  sec  the  manner  in  which  poor  w^ounded  soldiers  were  often 
transported  in  common  railway  trains,  lying  iii  filthy  cattle- 
waggons,  even  without  straw,  on  the  floor,  feeling  every  shock, 
and  remaining  sometimes  five  or  six  hours  at  some  station 
without  even  a  drink  of  water. 

On  my  arrival  in  Bridgeport  I  was  much  disappointed,  for 
Salm  had  not  arrived  yet,  and  v/as  still  some  sixty  miles  from 


■Tennessee  River,  97 

that  place=  An  order  from  General  Steedman  was  waiting 
there,  appointing  him  commander  of  that  post.  At  Jast  Felix 
arrived  on  the  loth  of  January,  and  after  a  great  deal  of  trouble 
everything  was  arranged  well.  The  Prince  formed  his  staff, 
and  made  Groeben  provost-marshal,  and  Captain  Eckert  in- 
spector of  the  post.  I  at  once  visited  the  hospital,  which  I 
found  in  a  very  neglected  state,  on  account  of  the  frequent 
changes  that  had  taken  place  during  the  last  month.  I  got 
things  right  as  well  as  I  could,  but  had  to  go  to  Chattanooga 
to  procure  many  commodities  I  thought  necessary  for  the 
wounded.  Salm  went  with  me,  and  General  Steedman  very 
readily  granted  everything  I  wanted,  especially  some  hospital. 
ten,ts.  Salm  had  to  leave  without  me,  for  I  had  not  finished 
yet ;  and  when  I  was  ready  I  had  £0  many  things  that  I  could 
not  find  a  place  for  all  of  them  in  the  hospital  train,  with  which 
I  returned.  Dr.  Woodworth  was  in  charge  of  the  train,  and 
had  with  him  his  exceedingly  pretty  wife. 

We  did  not  return  to  our  shanty  on  the  island,  but  removed 
to  the  quarters  of  the  post-commander,  which  were  situated  on 
the  highest  place  in  Bri(^geport.  From  this  spot  we  had  a 
beautiful  view  up  and  down  the  great  Tennessee  river,  with  its 
picturesque  mountains,  the  lovely  island,  and  the  railroad. 
Two  gunboats  were  stationed  near  the  bridge ;  they  were  at 
the  disposition  of  my  husband,  who  had  there  besides  five 
regiments  under  his  command. 

The  people  of  Tennessee  had  hoped  much  from  Hood,  and 
were  greatly  disappointed  by  his  defeat.  They  became  despe- 
rate, and  guerilla  bands  committed  many  depredations  in  the 
country  and  cruelty  upon  Union  people.  Salm,  therefore,  was 
very  anxious  to  check  them.  For  this  purpose  he  undertook 
several  expeditions,  which  he  always  commanded  hnnself, 
though  he  often  took  with  him  only  one  company.  These 
raids  were  usually  without  result,  for  the  rebels  had  their  spies 
everywhere,  and  I  failed,  not  to  tease  Salm  ;  but  on  the  29th, 
at  last,  an  expedition  had  a  grand  result:  he  captured  two 
rebel  hats  and  frightened  nine  rebel  women  out  of  their  wits. 
He  did  not  mind  my  teasing,  and  was  indefatigable. 

Towards  the  end  of  January  he  started  for  another  expedition 
down  the  river  on  the  transport  ship  '  Bridgeport,'  and  taking 
with  him  the  gunboat  '  Burnside.'  He  landed  his  troops 
about  forty-five  miles  from  Bridgeport,  and  on  a  very  dark 


98  Ten  Years  of  ony  Life. 

night  he  surprised  a  rebel  camp.  In  the  ensuing  fight  thirteen 
rebels  were  killed,  fourteen  taRen  prisoners,  and  a  number  of 
arms  and  horses  fell  into  the  hands  of  our  troops,  who  lost 
only  one  officer  of  a  coloured  regiment. 

On  the  13th  of  February,  Salm  returned  from  another  suc- 
cessful raid,  which  he  made  with  about  three  hundred  men. 
He  surprised,  on  the  loth,  the  noted  guerilla  chief  Witherspoon 
in  his  camp,  captured  many  arms  and  some  fine  horses, 
amongst  which  was  the  celebrated  charger  of  the  rebel  chief, 
whose  brother,  together  with  fifteen  rebels,  were  taken  prison- 
ers. A  good  number  of  the  rebels  were  killed  and  wounded, 
whilst  our  troops  had  no  casualties.  This  success  made  a 
great  noise,  and  General  Steedman  was  so  much  satisfied  that 
he  once  more  and  very  urgently  recommended  Salm  for  pro- 
motion. 

Whilst  Salm  was  thus  attending  to  his  military  duties,  always 
commanding  these  raids  in  person,  I  had  much  to  do  with  ar- 
ranging our  quarters  and  improving  the  hospital.  I  had  to  go 
several  times  to  Chattanooga,  for  the  people  there  had  sent 
me  rotten  tents,  and  I  had  to  exchange  them  for  new  ones, ' 
and  to  fetch  other  commodities  for  my  sick. 

Life  in  Bridgeport  was  then  quite  pleasant,  for  our  company 
had  had  many  agreeable  additions.  Several  officers'  wives 
had  arrived,  and  the  captains  of  the  gim boats  *  Stone  River  ' 
and  '  Burnside '  were  also  married,  and  very  nice  people. 

In  the  middle  of  February  my  brother-in-law.  Captain  John- 
son, arrived  with  my  sister  and  her  son  Fran ky,  for  the  captain 
had  been  attached  to  my  husband's  brigade.  The  proposed 
promotion  of  several  officers  and  that  of  Salm  did  not  pro- 
gress. There  was  somewhere  a  hitch,  and  some  hostile  influ- 
ences supposed  to  be  at  work  in  Washington. 

After  due  reflection  it  was  thought  best  that  I,  escorted  by 
old  Groeben,  should  go  to  Washington  and  look  afler  the  in- 
terests of  Felix  and  his  brigade. 

To  Europeans,  especially  to  Germans,  this  meddling  of 
ladies,  especially  with  military  aftairs,  will  appear  rather  strange, 
but  every  country  has  its  peculiarities,  and  it  is  one  of  the 
peculiarities  of  America  that  ladies  have  there  a  far  different 
position  from  that  they  hold  in  Europe.  More  things  go 
through  their  hands  than  outsiders  dream  of,  and  ofiiciais  in 
different  bureaus  are  not  in  the  least  surprised  if  ladies  attend. 


Start  for  Washington. 


99 


to  tlie  business  of  their  husbands.  Though  the  promotion  of 
Salm  depended  in  the  first  place  on  Stanton,  as  he  had  to  pro- 
pose him,  he  had  to  be  confirmed  as  a  general  by  the  Senate, 
and  moreover  Stanton,  independently  as  he  generally  acted 
could  not  disregard  the  suggestions  of  influential  governors  or 
senators,  whose  assistance  he  again  required  for  other  purposes. 
As  I  had  friends  amongst  the  governors  and  senators,  I  hoped 
they  would  exert  their  influence  in  my  husband's  interest,  es- 
pecially as  they  could  do  so  with  a  good  conscience,  his  claims 
being  strongly  supported  by  his  behaviour  and  the  recommen- 
dation from  his  chiefs.  General  Steedman  approved  of  my 
plan,  and  I  therefore  started  on  February  24th  for  Washington, 
carrying  with  me  the  good  wishes  and  hopes  of  the  brigade. 


100 


CHAPTER  Vli. 

On  board  the  *  General  Lyttle  ' — In  Washington — Up-hill  work- -Senator 
Yates — Go  with  Groeben  to  New  York — Governor  Fentou — Governor 
Gilmore  of  New  Hampshire — Return  lo  Washington — Victory — 
Receive  the  General's  commission  for  Salni — Living  at  Corvin's  in 
Georgetown — Short  sketch  of  war  events — Characteristic  of  General 
Grant — The  assassination  of  Lincoln — Attempt  against  Secretary 
Seward — Impression  made  by  that  catastrophe — The  Funeral — 
Andrew  Johnson,  the  new  President — Mr.  Field,  Assistant  Secretary 
of  ^he  Treasury — Returning  to  the  war — Felix  in  Dalton,  Georgia — 
Arrival  in  Chattanooga — No  trains — Get  a  locomotive — Riding  on  the 
cow-catcher — A  journey  from  Dalton  to  Cleveland — A  fearful  night  in 
the  woods — Dangers  of  railway  travelling — A  narrow  escape — I  get  a 
baby  of  my  sister's — Starting  for  Atlanta,  Georgia — State  of  the 
country — Our  life  in  Atlanta — Leaving  for  Savannah — Fort  Pulaski— 
An  excursion  to  Augusta — Dangers  of  the  Savannah  rivers — Ova- 
steamer,  the  '  Fanny  Lehr,' running  on  a  snag — Sticking  in  the  mud — 
The  alligators — Assistance  arriving — Continue  our  journey — Coming 
up  with  the  'Robert  Lehr,' \thich  strikes  a  snag  and  goes  down — ■ 
Returning  to  Savannah— End  of  the  war — Going  via  Baltimore  to 
Washington — Living  in  Georgetown  at  Corvin's — Forming  new  plans 
— Salm  resolves  to  go  to  Mexico — Groeben  is  to  go  with  him — I  re- 
main in  Washington — Take  a  house  in  that  city  together  with  the 
Corvins — Our  life — Excursions — Colonel  Moore — Leaving  for  Mexico 
— Good-bye  to  President  Johnson — On  board  the  '  Manhattan  ' — 
Father  Fisher — Arrival  in  liavannah — Surprise — Meeting  balm — 
Arrival  in  Vera  Cruz. 

My  husband  accompanied  me  as  far  as  Nashville,  where  we 
met  General  Steedman  and  Colonel  von  Schrader,  with  his 
wife.  As  I  had  to  attend  to  some  business  connected  with 
my  hospital,  I  stayed  over  Sunday  in  Nashville,  and  went  with 
General  Steedman  to  the  Sanitary  Commission,  from  whom  I 
got  all  I  wanted.  On  Tuesday,  February  28th,  I  started  for 
Louisville,  where  I  had  to  stay  two  days,  feeling  not  well  at  all. 


Arrival  at  C tiTiiherland.  101 

I  had  the  pleasure  of  seeing  Colonel  Taylor,  the  former  post- 
commander  of  Bridgeport,  whose  regiment  had  gone  home. 

Still  ill,  I  embarked  in  the  steamer  '  General  Lyttle  '  for 
Cincinnati.  She  was  a  very  large  splendid  ship,  -which  some- 
time afterwards  was  destroyed  by  fire.  The  saloon  in  this  ship 
was  exceedingly  large.  One  part  of  it,  separated  from  the  rest 
by  a  moveable,  heavy  curtain,  was  allotted  to  the  ladies,  and 
provided  with  a  fine  piano  and  all  the  comforts  of  a  drawing- 
room  ;  at  the  other  end  was  a  similar  room  for  the  gentlemen, 
who  sat  smoking  round  the  stove.  The  large  space  between 
was  used  as  a  dming-hall,  and  several  hundred  persons  could 
sit  at  dinner  in  it. 

The  ship  arrived  too  late  for  the  morning  train,  and  I  had  to 
stop  in  Cincinnati  until  ten  o'clock  p.m.  I  was  still  ill  all  night 
and  next  day,  and  the  journey  was  a  great  trial.  At  one  station 
a  bridge  had  been  washed  away,  and  all  passengers  had  to 
walk  more  than  two  miles  in  the  rain,  ankle-deep  in  the  mud, 
and  loaded  with  their  hand-baggage.  Old  Groeben  felt  that 
exertion  more  than  I  did,  for  he  was  even  worse  on  foot  than 
on  horseback. 

Arriving  at  Cumberland,  Maryland,  I  felt  so  bad  that  I  had 
to  send  for  a  doctor,  and  stay  all  Sunday,  I  arrived  at  last  in 
Washington  on  Tuesday,  March  6,  at  ten  o'clock  p.m. 

Though  still  ill  I  received  many  visitors,  and  amongst  them 
Generals  Hooker,  Fry,  and  Stapel,  Mr  Speier  and  Dr.  Strobach. 
I  heard  from  them  that  the  Senate  would  adjourn  at  the  end  of 
the  week,  and  that  I  had  not  much  time  to  lose  if  I  wanted  to 
attend  to  my  business.  I  therefore  called  next  day  on  the 
Senators  Harris,  Wilson,  and  Nesmick,  and  the  Generals 
Hooker  and  Fry,  in  the  War  Department.  From  the  latter  I 
heard  that  the  report  of  General  Thomas  had  not  been  sent  in 
yet,  and  that  nothing  would  be  decided  until  then  in  reference 
to  the  promotions  in  General  Thomas's  army. 

Senator  Yates  was  also  in  Washington,  and  he  and  my  other 
friends  also  exerted-  themselves  much  in  behalf  of  Felix. 
They  communicated  with  the  Generals  Thomas  and  Steedman, 
and  telegraphic  despatches  went  and  arrived  every  day.  Steed- 
man  once  more  urged  the  promotion  of  Felix,  and  I  called  on 
the  Secretary  of  War,  Mr.  Stanton,  whom  I,  however,  did  not 
find  in  his  office,  as  he  had  gone  to  the  Navy  Yard. 

I  was  quite  unhappy  about  ail  these  delays.     Senator  Yates 


102  Ten  Years  of  my  Life. 

therefore  wrote  to  Stanton,  enclosing  the  despatch  from  General 
Steedman  about  Fehx,  and  I  called  again  at  the  War  Depart- 
ment. Stanton  was  in,  but  too  much  occupied  to  see  me.  I 
therefore  sent  in  my  letter  and  despatch,  which  were  filed. 
By  General  Fry  I  always  heard  what  was  going  on  in  the  War 
Department  in  reference  to  my  husband,  and  he  told  me  that 
Stanton  would  not  make  him  a  general  without  having  a  special 
recommendation  from  General  Thomas  himself.  Under  the 
27th  of  Ivlarch  I  find  in  my  diary,  '  I  feel  very  unhappy,  but  I 
wiU  succeed,  even  if  it  kills  me.' 

Senator  Yates  felt  pity  for  my  distress,  and  sent  a  despatch 
to  General  Thomas,  and  when  he  had  waited  in  vain  for  an 
answer,  he  wrote  to  General  Steedman.  I  became  quite  ill 
with  anxiety  and  vexation,  but  was  resolved  to  succeed,  and 
not  to  have  any  rest  until  I  had  done  so. 

As  the  troops  under  the  command  of  Felix  were  partly  from 
New  York,  partly  from  New  Hampshire,  I  resolved  to  interest  the 
governors  of  those  States,  whose  wishes  could  not  well  be  dis- 
regarded by  Stanton.  1  had,  moreover,  to  attend  to  the  busi- 
ness of  other  ofiicers  of  the  brigade,  who  had  been  recom- 
mended for  promotion,  but  not  received  yet  their  commissions 
from  the  governors.  I  therefore  went  with  Groeben  to  New 
York,  and  before  leaving  for  Albany  I  sent  a  despatch  to  good 
old  Governor  Gilmore,  of  New  Hampshire. 

Arrived  in  Albany,  I  called  on  Senator  Harris,  whom  I  want- 
ed to  go  with  me  to  Governor  Fenton  of  New  York.  I  did 
not  find  the  senator,  but  being  too  impatient  to  wait  for  his 
return,  I  went  with  Groeben  to  Fenton,  who  received  me  with 
great  kindness.  He  attended  at  once  to  my  wishes  in  reference 
to  the  commissions  for  the  officers,  with  which  Groeben  start- 
ed immediately  to  Bridgeport,  whilst  I  returned  to  New  York. 
I  found  there  a  despatch  from  Governor  Gilmore,  which  I 
answered.  Everything  I  could  do  I  had  done  ;  the  governors 
promised  their  best,  and  in  so  far  I  succeeded  beyond  all  my 
hopes  ;  but  I  became  so  impatient  with  all  these  d^ays,  that 
I  on  my  way  back  to  Washington  fell  ill  at  Philadelphia.  Dr. 
Mitchell,  for  whom  I  sent,  said  that  I  required  only  rest,  and 
with  that  I  should  be  well  again  in  a  few  weeks. 

Mrs.  Corvin  and  the  Colonel  had  taken  a  house  in  George- 
town, a  delightful  place  on  the  other  side  of  the  rocky  creek,  a 
kind  of  suburb  ot  Washington,  where  many  of  the  rich  citizens 


General  Felix  Salm.  103 

had  villas.  I  had  seen  rny  friends  very  often  during  my  stay 
in  Washington,  and  not  liking  to  remain  alone  in  the  hotel,  and 
my  sister  being  absent  in  Alabama,  I  accepted  their  offer  to 
remove  to  their  house  in  Georgetown,  and  on  my  arrival  in 
Washington  the  Colonel  was  waiting  for  me  at  the  depot.  I 
found  a  letter  from  General  Fry,  who  had  gone  to  Charleston, 
which  was  very  disagreeable,  as  I  wanted  his  assistance  in  the 
War  Department.  Governor  Yates  was,  however,  still  in 
Washington,  and  on  calling  on  him,  on  the  loth  of  April,  I 
heard  good  news  ;  General  Thomas  had  informed  him  that  he 
/lad  recommended  Felix  for  promotion. 

Now  I  was  full  of  hope,  and  mijht  have  allowed  myself 
some  rest,  waiting  patiently  :  but  urged  by  some  unaccomitable ' 
dread,  and  fearing  that  some  untoward  event  might  snatch  out 
of  my  hands  the  palm  of  victory,  I  could  not  rest,  and  wrote 
at  once  to  Senator  Yates,  who  answered  that  he  would  see 
Stanton  on  the  12th  of  April.  I  called  on  the  Senator  on 
Thursday,  the  13th  of  April,  and  was  never  happier  in  my  Hfe, 
for  Yates  delivered  into  my  hands  the  commission  of  general 
for  Felix,  signed  by  Stanton  !  How  proud  I  felt  when  I  sent  a 
despatch  to  Bridgeport  addressed  to  General  Felix  Salm  ! 

When  I  returned  with  my  good  news  to  Georgetown,  I  turned 
Mrs.  Corvin's  house  topsy-turvy,  and  they  took  part  in  my 
happiness,  Corvin  brewed  in  the  evening  some  nice  punch, 
and  we  drank  the  health  of  the  dear  new  general. 

Yes,  I  felt  extremely  happy  and  proud.  He  had  given  me 
his  name  and  made  me  a  princess,  but  notwithstanding  his 
name  and  rank  he  would  have  failed  after  his  first  start,  and 
remained  a  colonel  without  a  regiment,  involved  as  he  was  in 
the  fate  of  poor  Blenker.  All  his  merit  would  have  availed 
him  little  against  the  rancour  of  Stanton.  I  procured  for  him 
the  command  of  the  8th,  and  raised  for  him  the  68th  Regi- 
ment ;  now  he  had  become  a  general  through  my  exertions. 

I  must  remind  the  reader  once  more  that  I  am  writing  my 
personal  experience,  and  not  history.  I  must  suppose  a  general 
knowledge  of  the  American  war,  as  even  a  slight  sketch  takes 
up  too  much  space.  I  therefore  shall  merely  touch  on  the 
great  events  which  happened  in  the  last  half  ot  1865  in  the 
East,  which  led  to  the  conclusion  ol  the  war. 

The  successes  in  the  West,  especially  the  capture  of  Vicks- 
burg  and  the  victories   near   Chattanooga,  had  made  General 


104  Ten  Years  of  my  Life. 

Grant  a  favourite  with  the  Government  in  Washington.  He 
was  appointed  Commander-Jn- chief  of  all  the  armies,  and 
placed  himself  at  the  head  of  the  Potomac  army,  whilst  he  left 
affairs  in  the  South  and  AVest  in  the  hands  of  Sherman  and 
Thomas,  who  had  chiefly  made  his  reputation.  Grant  himself 
is  no  great  general,  though  he  has  some  qualities  which, 
together  with  his  good  luck,  made  him  appear  so  to  the  world 
looking  on  from  afar  off.  He  has  great  tenacity,  an  utter  dis- 
regard for  human  life,  and  is  no  talker.  His  good  luck  and 
and  his  taciturnity  made  him  president  of  the  United  States, 
not  his  talent.  The  people  had  been  sufficiently  disappointed 
l>y  boasters  and  talkers,  and  were  favourably  disposed  towards 
a  general  who  had  successes  to  show  and  make  no  fuss  about 
them.  His  taciturnity  made  him  appear  v/iser  than  he  really 
was. 

The  views  of  General  Grant  about  the  manner  in  which  the 
great  struggle  was  to  be  terminated  were  based  on  figures.  He 
knew  that  the  Union  had  the  longest  purse  and  far  greater 
resources  in  men  than  the  South  ;  that  the  treasury  of  the 
rebels  was  exhausted,  and  that  the  army  they  had  in  the  field 
was  the  last  they  could  raise.  He  could  afford  to  lose  as  many 
thousands  as  they  could  hundreds ;  and  on  this  brutal  princi- 
ple, not  on  strategical  skill,  was  built  his  hope  of  victory. 
Though  the  conquest  of  Richmond  would  have  been  always  a 
great  success,  it  would  have  been  more  of  a  moral  than  of  a 
material  value,  as  war  he  knew  would  be  carried  on  in  other 
parts  of  the  wide  South  as  long  as  there  were  men  left  to  fight. 
The  Government,  however,  wanted  next  Richmond,  and  when 
Stanton  confided  to  Grant  the  army,  it  was  under  two  condi- 
tions :  that  he  should  at  once  move  upon  Richmond,  and  do 
it  on  another  road  than  that  which  McClellan  had  used,  whom 
Stanton  hated  more  than  the  rebels.  Every  military  man  of 
sense  saw  that  the  plan  of  that  much-abused  general  was  still 
the  best  for  the  attack  of  the  rebel  capital,  and  that  it  might 
be  approached  with  scarcely  any  loss  by  the  way  of  the  James 
or  York  rivers,  whilst  that  over  land  would  have  to  be  paved 
with  corpses.  But  Stanton  ordered,  and  Grant  had  promised 
to  fight  it  out  on  that  road.  He  therefore  crossed  the  Rapidyn 
river,  and  before  he  reached  the  point  where  McClellan  com- 
menced his  campaign.  Grant  had  lost  about  80,000  men  in  the 
battles  of  the  Wilderness,  Spotsylvania-Court- House,  and  Coal 


Death  of  President  Lincoln.  105 

Harbour.  What  was  it  to  liim  1  His  calculation  was  right  ; 
he  could  afford  such  a  loss  from  his  700,000,  whilst  the  20,000 
lost  by  the  Southern  army  made  useless  all  the  skill  of  General 
Lee  and  the  heroic  eftbrts  of  his  troops.  The  final  result  is 
known.     Lee  had  to  capitulate  ;  Richmond  was  taken. 

When  the  news  of  the  successes  arrived  in  Washington,  the 
city  resembled  a  madhouse.  All  the  offices  were  closed  at. 
once  for  that  day  ;  the  ten  thousand  clerks  ran  into  the  streets, 
and  first  into  the  bar-rooms,  to  celebrate  the  victory  in  drink. 
In  a  quarter  of  an  hour  scarcely  one  sober  man  was  to  be  seen  ; 
whoever  was  not  intoxicated  by  spirits  was  so  with  political 
enthusiasm.     Everybody  embraced  everybody  in  the  street. 

Good  Friday,  the  14th  of  April,  1865,  came.  This  day  is 
not  kept  as  holy  either  in  England  or  America,  as  it  is  in  Pro- 
testant Europe  ;  the  theatres  are  not  even  closed.  It  was, 
moreover,  the  anniversary  of  the  surrender  of  Fort  Sumter  in 
1 86 1,  and  was  to  be  celebrated  as  a  day  of  joy,  and  on  that 
day  the  Union  flag  was  to  be  hoisted  again  on  the  fort  with 
great  ceremonies. 

The  people  wanted  to  see  Lincoln  and  Grant,  and  to  satisfy 
their  curiosity  the  President  had  resolved  to  attend  the  repre- 
sentation of  a  play — '  The  American  Cousin  ' — in  Ford's 
Theatre,  6th  Street ;  and  the  more  so,  as  General  Grant  was 
compelled  to  leave  for  the  army.  How  Lincoln  was  shot  there 
by  John  Wilkes  Booth  is  known. 

I  intended  to  go  next  day  to  New  York  to  order  a  generals 
uniform  and  all  belonging  to  it  for  Felix,  and  rose  early.  Be^ 
fore  I  had  yet  finished  my  toilet.  Colonel  Corvin  knocked  at 
my  door  in  a  manner  that  frightened  me,  and  still  more  was  I 
alarmed  when,  on  opening  the  door,  I  looked  into  his  pale, 
excited  face,  tears  filling  his  eyes.  He  told  me  that  President 
Lincoln  and  Secretary  of  State  Seward  had  been  murdered 
last  night.     A  neighbour  had  told  him  so. 

I  never  in  my  life  have  seen  or  heard  of  such  a  general  and 
sincere  mourning.  .Everybody  looked  as  if  his  father  had 
suddenly  died,  and  even  known  rebel  sympathisers  looked 
grave  and  sad,  for  they  knew  well  that  the  death  of  this  good 
and  just  man  was  a  great  loss  even  for  the  conquered.  On 
the  same  morning,  many  houses  in  Georgetown  and  Washing- 
ton were  draped  with  black,  and  next  day  not  one  building, 
public  or  private,  was  to  be  seen  without  such  lugubrious 
ornament. 


106  Ten   Years  of  my  Life. 

President  Lincoln  was  carried  from  Ford's  Theatre  to  the 
house  of  a  German  photographer,  Mr.  Henry  Uike,  and  died 
fcarly  on  Saturday  morning.  Mr.  Seward  was  not  killed,  but 
severely  wounded  by  a  man  of  the  name  of  Payne.  He  was 
sick  in  bed  with  a  fractured  jaw  from  a  fall  from  his  carriage, 
when  Payne  entered  the  house  under  the  pretext  of  bringing 
some  medicine  from  the  apothecary.  As  he  made  some  noise, 
young  Seward,  the  Assistant-Secretary  of  State,  came  out  of 
his  room,  and  was  immediately  felled  to  the  ground  by  a  blow 
on  his  head  with  the  butt-end  of  a  revolver.  When  Payne, 
knife  in  hand,  jumped  towards  the  bed  of  the  old  Secretary  of 
State,  a  male  nurse,  an  invalid,  caught  him  round  his  waist 
from  behind,  and  though  he  received  several  stabs  he  did  not 
let  go  his  hold  ;  and  when  dragged  to  the  bed  by  the  far 
stronger  assassin,  his  exertions  were  so  far  successful  that  they 
caused  the  stabs  to  miss  their  aim,  wounding  Mr.  Seward  only 
in  the  neck. 

The  house  was  of  course  alarmed,  but  the  assassin  succeeded 
in  making  his  escape,  wounding  some  persons  of  the  house- 
hold who  met  him  on  the  staircase.  When  Miss  Fanny  Seward, 
the  amiable  daughter  of  the  Secretary,  rushed  into  her  father's 
bedroom,  she  found  him  lying  on  the  ground,  entangled  in  his 
bloody  sheets.  The  sight  of  her  bleeding  brother  and  father 
made. such  a  frightful  impression  on  her,  that  she  ailed  from 
that  time,  and  died  after  her  father  and  brother  had  recovered 
from  their  wounds.  When  Mr.  Seward  was  asked  afterwards 
what  were  his  thoughts  on  seeing  the  knife  oPthe  assassin  over 
him,  he  said,  '  I  looked  into  his^face,  and  thought,  "What  a 
handsome  man  !  "  ' 

There  were  many  reports  afloat  accusing  well-known  persons 
of  having  taken  part  in  the  conspiracy,  and  neither  the  Vice- 
President,  Mr.  Johnson,  nor  high  military  commanders  escaped 
suspicion. 

John  Wilkes  Booth  was  tracked,  and  defending  himself  when 
surrounded  in  a  barn,  was  shot  by  a  corporal.  Payne  was 
caught  and  hanged  with  three  others,  amongst  whom  was  Mrs. 
Surrat,  the  first  woman,  I  was  cold,  who  ever  suffered  this  pun- 
ishment in  the  United  States. 

Though  I  mourned  very  much  the  death  of  the  good  and 
kind  President,  war  had  hardened  me  somewhat  against  the 
impression  of  such  scenes  and  news,  and  1  left  the  same  even- 


The  Presidents  Funeral.  107 

ing  for  New  York  to  attend  to  my  private  business.  I  found 
there  great  excitement,  and  that  the  sympathy  of  the  people  in 
New  York  was  the  same  as  in  Washington,  as,  in  fact,  was  the 
case  throu2;hout  the  whole  Union. 

I  had  alighted  in  the  Everett  House,  where  Governor  Gil- 
more,  of  New  Hampshire,  called  on  me,  and  returned  to 
Georgetown  on  April  19,  at  noon,  when  I  found  all  Washing- 
ton in  the  streets,  for  the  funeral  of  Mr.  Lincoln  was  to  take 
place  at  one  o'clock.  His  remains  had  been  laid  out  in  be- 
coming pomp  in  the  green-room  of  the  President's  residence. 

The  funeral  has  been  described  in  all  papers,  and  will  still 
be  remembered.  Whoever  saw  it  will  never  forget  it,  not  on 
account  of  its  magnificence,  but  on  account  of  the  rarer  sight 
of  so  many  thousand  sad  and  tearful  faces.  The  coffin  was 
brought  to  the  great  Rotunda  in  the  Capitol,  and  remained 
there  open  in  state  until  nine  o'clock  next  day.  From  far  and 
near  still  many  thousands  more  came  to  have  a  last  look  at  this 
victim  of  political  fanaticism. 

It  was  intended  to  carry  the  remains  of  the  President  as 
speedily  as  convenient  to  Springfield,  Illinois,  but  this  could 
not  be  carried  out,  for  everybody  wanted  once  more  to  see  the 
face  of  the  beloved  President,  and  every  city  and  village 
through  which  the  procession  passed  wanted  to  pay  him  their 
last  respects. 

The  cities  of  Baltimore,  Philadelphia,  New  York,  Albany, 
Chicago,  vied  with  each  other.  From  hundreds  of  miles  the 
people  flocked  near  the  road  only  to  see  the  sombre  cortege 
pass,  and  honour  it  at  least  by  uncovering.  This  kind  of  tri- 
umphant march  lasted  until  May  3,  when  the  cortege  arrived  in 
Springfield,  Illinois. 

Though  I  wished  very  much  to  return  to  my  husband,  I  was 
detained  by  difterent  circumstances  longer  than  I  intended  in 
Georgetown.  According  to  the  constitution,  the  Vice-Presi 
dent,  Mr.  Andrew  Johnson,  had  become  President  of  the 
United  States.  I  had  made  his  acquaintance  in  Nashville, 
when  he  was  still  Governor  of  Tennessee,  in  which  State  he 
always  had  particular  connections  and  influence,  which  might 
have  been  used  in  favour  of  my  husband.  I  wished  therefore 
to  secure  his  acquaintance,  and  called  on  him.  He  was  mucn 
occupied,  and  I  could  not  see  him,  but  he  sent  word  that  he 
would  receive  me  on  April  24,  at  ten  o'clock. 


108  Ten   Years  of  my  Life. 

On  that  day  I  went  to  the  White  House,  accompanied  by 
Madame  von  Corvin.  We  had  an  audience,  and  were  received 
very  courteously  ;  but,  as  many  people  were  waiting  to  see  him, 
and  I  had  no  time  to  speak  of  things  to  which  I  wanted  to 
draw  his  attention,  he  invited  me  to  call  on  him  in  the  evening 
after  business  hours  the  same  day.  I  followed  this  invitation 
accompanied  by  Mr.  Field,  the  Assistant-Secretary  of  the 
Treasury,  whose  acquaintance  I  had  made  recently.  I  presented 
the  President  with  a  bouquet,  which  he  received  very  graciously. 

On  April  30  I  said  good-bye  to  Georgetown,  and  started  for 
New  York,  where  I  had  still  to  attend  to  some  business  for 
Felix,  which  detained  me  over  a  week. 

In  Cincinnati  I  was  again  detained,  but  at  last  left,  on  May 
13,  for  Louisville,  where  I  found  two  despatches  from  my 
husband,  who  had  meanwhile  removed  to  Dalton,  in  Georgia. 
Telegrams  which  I  found  in  Nashville  made  me  stop  in  that 
city  another  day,  and  I  did  not  arrive  in  Chattanooga  before 
May  17,  where  I  found  Captain  von  Groeben  to  escort  me  to 
Dalton, 

The  railroad  was  all  torn  up  and  no  regular  trains  running, 
but  being  impatient  to  reach  Felix,  I  managed  to  get  an  extra 
train — that  is,  only  a  locomotive — though  everybody  advised 
me  not  to  run  the  risk.  I  had  my  way  however,  and  poor 
Groeben  had  to  risk  his  limbs  with  me.  I  was  in  such  good 
spirits  that  I  played  all  kinds  of  tricks  only  to  have  a  laugh  at 
Groeben,  who  was  horrified  when  I  insisted  on  riding  on  the 
cow-catcher,  which  I  did.  It  was  glorious  fun,  but  more  like 
riding  on  a  high  trotting-horse  than  on  a  locomotive,  for  our 
whole  journey,  which  lasted  three  hours,  was  more  like  a  jump- 
ing procession. 

Dalton  is  a  small  town  in  Georgia,  and  in  consequence  of 
General  Sherman's  war  policy  had  been  destroyed  almost  en- 
tirely ;  only  half  a  dozen  houses  had  been  spared,  and  it  was 
extremely  difficult  to  procure  quarters  for  us.  At  last  we 
succeeded  in  securing  a  small  cottage  overgrown  with  ivy  and 
wild  vine  which  pleased  me  much. 

My  sister  Delia  was  with  her  husband  in  Cleveland,  Tenn. 
She  expected  her  confinement,  and  I  felt  very  envious,  fori  had 
no  child  which  made  me  quite  unhappy.  Seeing  this,  my  sister 
promised  to  let  me  have  the  expected  one,  if  it  should  be  a  boy, 
and  I  awaited  the  news  with  great  impatience.     When  I  at  la^c 


A  Hide  in  an  Ambulance.  109 

receive^  the  telegraphic  despatch  I  could  not  get  an  extra  tram, 
and  resolved  to  ride  over  in  an  ambulance,  for  the  distance  was 
only  twenty-nine  miles.  This  would  have  been  a  trifle  any- 
where else  but  in  Georgia  at  that  time.  The  driver,  however, 
pretended  to  know  the  road,  and  I  was  not  afraid,  though  we 
had  to  cross  dense  woods.  It  was  evening  when  we  entered 
them,  and  the  driver  lost  his  way.  We  were  wandering  about 
until  the  middle  of  the  night,  and  it  became  so  dark  that  we 
could  not  see  our  horses.  But  on  a  sudden  there  broke  loose 
a  thunderstorm,  such  as  you  have  only  in  southern  countries. 
The  hurricane  rushed  through  the  trees,  and  made  them  creak 
or  break  down  with  a  crash.  Flash  after  flash  of  lightning 
followed,  lighting  up  the  fearful  scene  for  moments,  and  the 
thunder  made  a  noise  as  if  hundreds  of  guns  were  fired  at  once. 
Then  the  rain  poured  down  in  torrents,  and  everywhere 
gurgled  and*  rushed  water  preparing  new  unseen  dangers. 
It  was  indeed  a  desperate  situation,  and  it  may  be  imagined 
how  glad  we  were  on  discovering  at  last,  at  about  two  o'clock 
A.M.,  a  farm  before  us.  Though  not  knowing  whether  we 
should  meet  a.  friend  or  a  foe,  necessity  was  stronger  than  fear, 
and  we  roused  the  owner.  He  was  a  Mr.  Price,  who  received 
us  with  kindness,  and  I  stayed  with  him  until  morning. 

When  I  arrived  at  about  noon  in  Cleveland,  my  sister  had 
had  a  fine  boy,  who  therefore  was  to  be  mine,  and  whom  I  at 
once  called  Felix.  I  returned  after  a  day  or  two  to  Dalton, 
again  in  my  ambulance,  as  the  hope  of  getting  a  train  failed. 
The  road,  torn  up  by  the  storm,  was  extremely  bad,  and  our 
horses  became  so  exhausted  that  we  once  more  had  to  apply 
to  the  hospitality  of  Mr.  Price.  In  the  night  I  was  awakened 
by  the  arrival  of  my  husband,  who  came  to  fetch  me. 
■  Some  time  afterwards,  on  July  3,  I  received  a  despatch  tell- 
ing me  that  my  poor  sister  was  very  ill.  I  applied  for  a  loco- 
motive to  General  Steedman,  who  had  his  head-quarters  in 
Atlanta,  and  was  promised  one  for  next  morning.  I  preferred 
waiting,  remembering  -my  first  journey  in  an  ambulance,  but 
nearly  got  out  of  the  frying-pan  in.o  the  fire.  The  service  on 
the  railway  had  not  been  regulated  yet,  and  locomotives  were 
always  running  to  and  fro  at  haphazard.  When  our  locomo- 
tive was  just  on  a  dangerous  curve  and  swaying  round,  we  saw, 
to  our  horror,  another  coming  full  speed  towards  us.  Without 
the  presence  of  mind  of  our   engineer,  a  smash  would  have 


110  Ten  Years  of  my  Life. 

occurred  the  next  second  ;  but  he  was  a  brave  and  cool-headed 
man  ;  instead  of  leaping  off  tRe  locomotive  and  leaving  me  to 
my  fate,  as  many  others  would  perhaps  have  done,  he  at  once 
backed  to  a  safe  distance.  There  was  only  one  line  of  rails, 
and  General  Judah,  who  ^yas  on  the  locomotive  meeting  us, 
was  polite  enough  to  return  with  us  to  Cleveland.  I  found 
my  sister  better,  but  it  was  resolved  that  she  should  engage  a 
negro  nurse,  and  that  I  should  take  her  and  the  baby  with  me 
to  Dalton. 

I  was  extremely  happy  to  have  at  last  a  baby,  and  it  became 
the  centre  around  which  everything  turned — even  my  pet 
Jimmy  was  neglected.  Little  Felix  was  a  most  beautiful  child, 
and  the  black  nurse  felt  very  proud,  as  black  nurses  of  white 
children  always  do.  It  was  quite  amusing  to  hear  her  breaking 
out  in  ecstasies  about  her  nursling,  and  preferring  him  much 
to  her  own  child,  which  she  contemptuously  called  a  black 
brat. 

When  I  returned  home  I  found  that  Felix  had  received 
marching  orders.  His  brigade  had  to  advance  to  Atlanta, 
whilst  General  Steedman  went  to  Augusta. 

The  country  was  in  a  fearful  state.  There  was  nothing  to 
be  had,  and  it  had  been  extremely  difficult  for  me  to  procure 
even  the  most  necessary  articles  or  household  things  in  Dalton. 
In  Atlanta  I  knew  it  was  still  worse,  and  when  we  started  on 
July  7  for  that  city,  I  took  with  me  everything  collected  with 
so  much  trouble. 

Twelve  miles  before  Atlanta  our  train  ran  off  the  track,  and 
it  required  much  time  and  work  to  set  things  right.  We  ar- 
rived at  last  at  the  city  of  Atlanta,  or  rather  at  a  place  where 
it  once  had  been. 

Before  the  war,  Atlanta  had  been  only  an  insignificant  place, 
not  being  older  than  about  twenty  years,  but  during  this  war 
it  had  become  of  very  great  importance,  not  only  on  account 
of  the  several  railroad  junctions  there,  but  still  more  because 
there  had  been  established  the  most  important  mills,  factories, 
and  Government  stores,  providing  the  Southern  army  with  all 
requirements.  Sherman  wanted  to  finish  the  war,  and  calcu- 
lated that  this  might  be  done  best  by  unstringing  or  cutting 
the  sinews  of  war.  After  having  destroyed  all  the  factories 
along  the  Chattahooche  river  and  its  neighbourhood,  he  deci- 
ded on  taking  Atlanta,  which  he  therefore   besieged.     The 


Federal  Barbarities.  Ill 

town  was  only  fortified  with  field-works,  but  to  storm  them 
would  cost  too  many  men,  and  Sherman  thought  it  more  secure 
to  compel  the  Richmond  of  the  West  to  surrender  by  starva- 
tion. He  succeeded,  and  the  Confederate  army  defending  it 
had  to  leave  the  town  to  its  fate.  This  fate  was  very  hard, 
for  Sherman  acted  only  on  mere  military  principles,  which 
always  are  directly  opposed  to  humanity.  He  wanted  the 
place  for  military  purposes,  and  insisted  that  all  its  inhabitants 
should  leave  it,  going  either  south  or  being  conveyed  to  the 
Northern  States,  where  they  could  not  harm  the  interest  of  the 
army.  All  petitions  were  in  vain ;  everybody,  even  sick 
women  and  children,  had  to  leave ;  and  taking  with  them  such 
of  their  goods  as  they  could  transport,  they  were  escorted  by 
Federal  officers  to  the  army  of  General  Hood. 

This  was  indeed  a  very  cruel  tate  after  having  endured  all 
the  horrors  of  a  long  siege. 

Poor  Atlanta,  it  was  doomed  to  utter  destruction  when 
Sherman  started  on  his  celebrated  march  to  Savannah.  After 
having  concentrated  around  Atlanta  about  70,000  men,  and 
given  up  all  connections  with  Chattanooga,  he  destroyed  all 
railroads  and  places  between,  and  burnt  Atlanta  itself  on  the 
14th  of  November.  He  would  leave  behind  him  a  wilderness, 
in  order  that  no  Southern  army  might  be  able  to  follow  him. 
Before  the  Southern  chiefs  even  became  aware  of  his  inten- 
tions, which  had  been  kept  wonderfully  secret,  he  had  already 
a  start  of  nearly  three  hundred  miles — thrive  hundred  miles,  in 
which  scarcely  a  house  and  no  food  either  for  cattle  or  man 
was  to  be  found. 

The  instructions  given  by  Sherman  to  the  army  were 
extremely  severe,  and  even  barbarous,  but  they  became  still 
more  so  by  the  manner  in  which  they  were  executed  by  the 
Federal  soldiers.  Every  bit  of  iood  was  taken  by  them,  or,  if 
they  had  too  much  to  transport,  destroyed,  and  nobody  cared 
whether  the  poor  Southern  families  were  left  to  starve. 
Jewellery,  plate,  and  valuables,  which  were  transportable,  were 
appropriated  under  pretext  that  they  might  be  sold  and  furnish 
means  to  the  rebels.  In  houses  from  which  the  inhabitants 
had  fled  before  the  cruelties  of  the  Federals,  which  on  purpose 
had  been  exaggerated  by  the  Southern  papers,  every  piece  of 
furniture  was  destroyed  or  the  whole  concern  burnt ;  and  if 
some  DOor  wretches  were  discovered  hid  in  the  woods,  even 


112  Ten   Years  of  my  Life. 

unarmed,  they  were  hanged  or  shot.  For  centuries  war  had 
not  been  carried  on  in  such  a  nnanner,  but  it  was  successful. 
The  North,  infatuated  by  political  fanaticism,  applauded,  and 
Sherman  was  the  great  hero  of  the  war.  I  do  not  envy  such 
glory,  great  general  as  he  may  be. 

All  public  buildings  in  Atlanta  were  burnt  and  destroyed  by 
means  of  gunpowder.  Of  the  once  elegant  private  houses 
nothing  remained  but  the  blackened  chimneys.  Only  a  few 
old  houses  in  the  suburbs  had  been  spared,  because  they  were 
used  by  Federals,  and  some  new  light  ones  had  been  built 
since  then.  It  was  a  sad  sight,  and  on  looking  on  it  one  could 
scarcely  believe  that  the  remaining  inhabitants  of  that  country 
would  ever  become  reconciled  to  their  Northern  conquerors. 

General  Sherman  had  promised  to  make  my  husband  com- 
mander of  the  whole  district.  This  was  a  very  honourable 
position,  but  at  the  same  time  a  very  difficult  one,  requiring 
much  energy  and  tact. 

Salm  and  I  could  not  at  once  find  a  house,  and  we  stayed  a 
few  days  in  that  of  a  relative  of  a  la.^y  who  had  come  over 
with  us  from  Dalton,  and  who  was  anxious  to  secure  the  good 
graces  of  the  new  commander.  On  the  loth  of  July,  however, 
we  found  a  very  nice  little  cottage,  in  which  Salm  established 
his  head-quarters  after  General  Win  slow  had  surrendered  to 
him  the  command  of  the  place. 

•We  remained  in  Atlanta  until  October,  and  time  passed 
very  agreeably  with  us.  My  brother-in-law  had  become  Pro- 
vost-Marshal of  the  post,  and  therefore  came  over  with  my 
sister  Delia.  As  little  Felix  did  not  get  on  very  well  with  his 
nurse,  and  the  doctors  thought  that  he  would  be  better  with 
hi?  inother,  I  with  great  regret  gave  him  up  again. 

W^e  had  almost  always  visitors  passing  througli,,  mostly 
officers  going  from  one  part  of  the  army  to  the  other,  and  as 
there  was  no  hotel  in  Atlanta  their  comrades  in  the  town  had 
to  accommodate  them  as  best  they  could.  In  regard  to  pro- 
visions, we  were  at  first  very  badly  ofi",  for  the  few  country 
people  in  the  district  who  had  something  to  sell  did  not  venture 
to  bring  their  products  to  market  for  fear  of  being  badly  treated 
by  the  soldiers,  as  happened ^now  and  then.  The  Union 
soldiers  were  supercilious,  and  the  southern  people  full  of 
hatred  towards  them,  and  though  prudence  advised  them  to 
be  cautious  in  their  expressions,  they  often  gave  way  to  their 


Poor  White  People.  113 

feelings,  and  riots  ensued.     Sensible  men  tried  to  restore  peace 
but  that  was  sometimes  a  very  thankless  business.     Judge  Butt, 
an  acquaintance  of  ours,  and  a  well  meaning  man,  who  once 
tried  to  pacify  the  quarrelling  parties,  was  badly  wounded  by 
one  of  our  cavalry  men. 

My  husband  tried  his  best  to  restore  confidence  in  the  dis- 
trict, and  to  check  the  insolence  of  the  soldiery.  His  endea- 
vours were  not  without  success,  and  after  some  time  huts  sprang 
up  amongst  the  ruins,  and  country  people  came  to  the  market. 

The  distress  of  the  poor  white  people  in  Georgia  had  found 
sympathy  in  the  North,  and  one  day,  in  August,  Judge  Root 
and  his  wife  arrived  with  an  immense  train  loaded  with  all 
kinds  of  clothing  and  other  things,  which  he  confided  to  me 
for  distribution.  When  I  advertised  the  arrival  of  these 
benevolent  gifts,  hundreds  of  poor  women  from  the  district 
flocked  to  our  house,  and  I  was  several  days  occupied  with 
this  good  work.  To  look  on  those  poor  wretched  creatures 
was  a  very  sad  sight  They  looked  all  yellow  and  starved, 
and  were  sca^-cely  covered  by  rags. 

There  were  of  course  many  sick  and  wounded,  and  the 
hospitals  were  crowded.  We  had,  however,  good  doctors,  and 
I  supported  them  to  my  best  ability,  passing  every  day  a  few 
hours  in  the  hospitals,  and  going  now  and  then  to  Augusta,  or 
even  to  Nashville,  to  fetch  provisions  and  other  commodities 
from  the  Sanitary  or  Christian  Commission.  * 

Our  endeavours  to  do  everything  that  possibly  could  be  done 
for  the  poor  Southerners  were  kindly  appreciated  by  the  Atlanta 
people,  who  once  surprised  us  with  a  serenade  ;  though  we 
laughed  much  at  the  great  variety  of  musical  instruments,  and 
the  queer  music  produced"  by  them,  we'  felt  highly  gratified  at 
the  kind  feeling  expressed  by  it. 

I  do  not  know  whether  in  the  military  law  all  the  different 
punishments  are  allowed  which  I  saw  in  the  army,  but  I  caii 
scarcely  believe  it,  for  they  were  exceedingly  barbarous,  and 
riot  at  all  in  accordance  with  the  spirit  of  the  American  law. 
I  am  rather  inclined  to  believe  that  there  were  more  sanctioned 
by  army  tradition,  deriving  their  origin  from  what  once  was 
thought  necessary  in  the  British  army.  Whipping  has  been 
abolished,  I  think,  by  the  la\v,  but  what  had  been  substituted 
for  it  was  far  worse. 

Soldiers  who  had  committed  a  breach  of  discipline,  or  had 

G 


114?  Ten  Years  of  ray  Life, 

been  found  drunk  repeatedly,  were  tied  to  a  tree  with  a  horse's  . 
bit  or  bayonet  fixed  in  their  Tnouths  ;  or  they  were  suspended 
by  their  thumbs  in  such  a  manner  as  just  to  reach  the  ground 
with  the  tips  of  their  toes.  Others  were  exhibited  as  drunkards 
for  hours,  standing  on  tubs  in  the  middle  of  the  camp,  and 
laughed  at  and  teased  by  all  passers-by,  as  used  to  be  done 
when  people  were  put  in  the  stocks  or  exhibited  on  the 
pillory. 

Once  when  Salm  had  gone  to  Marietta,  I  heard  cries  of  pain 
coming  from  the  garden  behind  my  house.  A  poor  fellow, 
with  a  bayonet  in  his  mouth,  was  tied  there  against  a  tree  and 
exposed  to  the  glaring  sun.  I  sent  for  Captain  Steurnagel,  my 
husband's  Assistant  Adjutant-General,  and  heard  from  him 
that  this  man  was  punished  in  this  manner  for  disobedience 
against  Salm.  He  was  a  German  who  had  enlisted  recently, 
and  who  refused  obstinately  to  cut  off  his  long  elf  locks.  Salm 
had  sent  for  him,  but  the  German  insisted  on  his  right  to  wear 
his  hair  as  he  liked,  making  a  long  speech  about  tyranny  being 
unworthy  of  a  free  country.  In  things  concerning  discipline 
Salm  did  not  understand  any  joke,  and  he  condemned  the  man 
to  the  above-mentioned  punishment. 

I  insisted  on  his  immediate  release,  but  Captain  Steuernagel 
refused  to  comply  with  my  demand,  as  was  his  duty.  At  this 
I  became  angry,  and  as  the  captain  would  not  take  upon  him- 
self the  responsibility,  I  untied  the  poor  fellow  with  my  own 
hands,  poor  Steuernagel  not  daring  to  hinder  me,  though  he  was 
much  afraid  of  the  consequences. 

I  took  the  rather  crazy  German  into  ray  kitchen,  and  gave 
him  something  to  eat  and  drink,  for  he  was  utterly  exhausted. 
In  examining  him  1  heard  that  he  was  a  learned  apothecary, 
and  as  I  became  interested  I  resolved  to  find  for  him  a  place 
where  he  could  be  of  more  use  than  in  the  ranks. 

The  man  was  not  insensible  to  kindness,  and  on  my  advice 
he  cut  off  his  hair,  went  to  Salm  and  begged  his  forgiveness. 
Salm  never  heard  that  I  had  liberated  him,  for  the  captain  of 
course  did  not  care  to  tell ;  and  believing  that  he  had  suffered 
his  punishment  it  was  not  difficult  for  me  to  interest  my  kind 
husband  in  his  favour,  who  made  him  doctor  in  a  coloured 
regiment. 

A  great  but  pleasurable  excitement  was  produced  in  Atlanta 
by  the  arrival  of  the  paymaster.     In  consequence  of  the  in- 


Sahn  goes  to  Savannah.  115 

security  of  the  roads,  this  rare  bird  had  not  appeared  in  our 
camp  for  nearly  eight  months,  and  penury  was  the  prevailing 
epidemic.  I  think  I  spoke  before  about  the  evil  consequences 
of  this  manner  of  paying  soldiers  in  the  American  army.  It 
compelled  the  officers  to  sell  their  pay-rolls  in  advance  to 
agents,  who  took  enormous  interest.  The  privates  were  still 
worse  off,  for  they  took  tickets,  representing  a  certain  sum, 
.from  the  sutlers,  who  made  immense  profits.  The  commanders 
tried  to  regulate  this  trade  as  much  as  possible,  but  their 
powers  in  this  respect  were  limited,  and  moreover,  they  had 
only  too  frequently  good  reasons  to  wink  at  the  doings  of  the 
sutlers  and  their  agents. 

On  October  3,  Salm  received  orders  to  go  with  his  old  regi- 
ment to  Savannah,  which  had  been  evacuated  by  the  rebels 
already,  about  Christmas.  I  went  with  Salm  as  far  as  Augusta, 
where  I  intended  to  stay,  together  with  Mrs.  Steedman,  until 
further  orders.  My  sister  came  also  to  Augusta,  for  her  hus- 
band had  been  appointed  assistant  provost-marshal  of  the  de- 
partment. I  occupied  myself  as  usual  in  the  hospitals  and 
their  affairs.  I  frequently  visited  Atlanta,  Macon,  and  Nash- 
ville, to  which  latter  place  I  went  on  October  16  with  Dr. 
Simon,  riding  again,  as  I  find  in  my  diary,  on  the  '  cow- 
catcher.' This  manner  of  travelling  is  not  at  all  dis.tgreeable, 
for  one  has  fresh  air,  and  is  free  from  dust  and  heat  of  the 
locomotive. 

I  could  not  leave  Augusta  before  October  28.  The  journey 
was  very  unpleasant  and  fatiguing,  for  we  had  to  travel  nearly 
sixty  miles  in  a  stage-coach  until  we  reached  station  *  Four 
one-half,'  where  we  had  to  remain  until  October  30.  We 
arrived  at  last  in  Savannah  and  stopped  at  the  Pulaski  House, 
where  I  was  much  disappointed  in  not  finding  Felix,  who  had 
gone  to  Fort  Pulaski ;  but  I  soon  received  a  letter  from  him 
informing  me  that  he  would  be  obliged  to  stay  a  few  days  at 
Fort  Pulaski,  but  would  come  and  fetch  me  as  soon  as  dis- 
engaged. 

The  Prince  arrived  amidst  a  great  thunderstorm.  He  stayed 
in  the  city  until  the  4th,  when  I  was  to  accompany  him  to 
Pul  aski .  but  as  it  was  raining  very  hard,  and  the  ambulance 
ordered  to  bring  me  to  the  wharf  did  not  arrive  in  time,  he  had 
•"o  go  without  me,  and  I  followed  him  in  the  afternoon,  in  a  tug, 
"'ccompanied  by  Colonel  Carlton,  the  quarter-master  of  the 
department. 


IIG  Ten   Years  of  my  Life. 

Fort  Pulaski,  situated  on  a  narrow  peninsula  and  washed  by  the 
sea,  was  then  a  most  horrid'place.  Having  sustained  a  siege 
and  being  partly  in  ruins,  the  accommodation  for  the  garrison 
was  very  bad,  and  the  place  not  having  been  cleaned  for  a  very 
long  time,  was  filthy  beyond  description.  In  consequence  of 
this,  sickness  among  the  soldiers  was  prevalent,  and  a  great 
many  of  them  suffered  from  a  kind  of  cholera  or  dysentery,  with 
vomiting. 

The  smell  and  the  damp  in  the  casements  in  which  we  were 
to  live  was  horrid,  especially  on  days  when  the  weather  was 
cold  and  the  rain  pouring  down.  Moreover,  there  was  no 
furniture,  and  the  whole  place  looked  extremely  dismal.  I  did 
not  wonder  that  Colonel  Carlton  was  quite  disgusted,  and  re- 
turned to  Savannah  on  the  6th.  We  followed  him  next  day, 
to  fetch  many  things  in  order  to  make  our  abode  more  cheer- 
ful, and  to  provide  medicines,  provisions  and  other  comforts 
for  our  poor  sick  soldiers. 

Felix  got  leave  to  go  to  Augusta,  and  we  started  from 
Pulaski  on  the  i6th  in  a  small  sailing-boat,  but  were  too  late 
in  Savannah  for  the  steamer  'Gibbons.'  We  therefore  took 
places  in  the  steamer  '  Fanny  Lehr,'  which  left  for  Augusta  at 
four  o'clock  p  M.  I  had  a  very  nice  state-room  on  the  boat, 
but  she  had  scarcely  proceeded  forty  miles  up  the  river  when 
she  struck  on  a  snag,  which  entered  her  hulk,  making  a  big 
leak  through  which  the  water  came  in  very  fast.  The  captain 
at  once  sent  off  a  messenger  to  Savannah  to  fetch  assistance, 
and  we  meanwhile  succeeded  in  getting  off  the  snag,  and  pad- 
dling out  of  the  stream  nearer  to  the  bank  of  the  river.  The 
water  rose  very  alarmingly,  and  soon  extinguished  the  engine 
fires.  The  fore  part  of  the  ship  sank  to  the  muddy  bottom, 
and  the  captain  was  afraid  she  would  break  right  in  the  middle. 
The  weather  was  fortunately  very  fine,  and  while  waiting  for 
assistance  we  amused  ourselves  with  watching  the  alligators 
crawling  in  the  muddy  water  around  the  ship.  Salm  regretted 
he  had  no  gun  to  give  them  battle.  He  became  quite  excited 
when  he  saw  a  very  big  fellow  crawl  on  shore,  and  wanted  to 
get  off  the  ship  to  pursue  and  kill  him  ;  but  he  had  to  give  up 
such  an  idea,  as  the  ground  was  everywhere  an  unfathomable 
swamp. 

The  ship  did  not  break,  and  on  the  21st  the  steamer  '  Min» 
nie  Brand  '  came  from  Savannah  to  assist  us.     She  had  been 


Disbanding  the  GSth  Regiment.  117 

a  gunboat  plving  on  the  James  river,  the  same  as  the  *  Fanny 
Lehr/ 

We  were  glad  to  be  afloat  again,  and  steamed  rather  fast  up 
the  river,  where  we  overtook  the  '  Robert  Lehr,'  a  ship  belong- 
ing to  the  company,  heavily  loaded  with  all  kinds  of  provisions. 
When  we  were  just  alongside  of  her  she  ran  on  the  sunken 
wreck  of  a  ship.  It  was  a  tremendous  shock.  She  trembled 
like  a  person  in  great  fear,  and  went  down  as  if  she  had  been 
lead.  It  was  a  pity  to  see  all  the  boxes  with  fine  wines  and 
baskets  of  champagne  tumble  into  the  water,  and  sink  after  a 
few  moments.  The  crocodiles  must  have  had  a  nice  time  that 
day,  for  there  was  wine  enough  on  board  to  make  them  all 
drunk.  We  succeeded  in  saving  not  only  the  captain  and  crew, 
but  also  a  box  of  fine  claret  and  a  basket  of  champagne.  As 
the  captain  of  the  wrecked  ship  had  no  objection,  we  had  cer- 
tainly none,  to  make  acquaintance  with  the  contents  of  box 
and  basket. 

These  accidents  happening  to  the  '  Fanny  '  and  the  '  Robert 
Lehr '  were  entirely  owing  to  their  captains  neglecting  to  take 
pilots  from  Savannah,  who  were  acquainted  with  every  old 
snag  and  other  unsafe  places  in  that  treacherous  river. 

We  arrived  in  Augusta  on  the  25th,  in  the  afternoon,  and 
heard  from  General  Steedman  that  the  order  to  disband  the 
68th  Regiment  had  arrived  from  the  War  Department  already 
two  days  ago.  The  regiment  had  suffered  much  by  sickness, 
especially  at  Fort  Pulaski,  and  was  therefore  sent  home  before 
the  end  of  its  time. 

Salm  had  to  go  to  Wainsbury,  where  the  luggage  of  the 
regiment  was  still  being  kept,  and  I  remained  meanwhile  with 
Mrs.  General  Steedman  and  my  sister.  My  husband  returned 
soon,  and  on  the  29th  November  we  embarked  on  board  the 
steamer  '  Gibbons  '  for  Savannah.  She  was  a  most  uncomfor- 
table old  tub,  and  it  was  well  we  went  down  the  river  and  not 
up. 

When  we  arrived  on  the  20th  in  Savannah  we  found  there 
many  officers  of  tlie  68th  Regiment,  all  very  much  excited,  and 
glad  to  return  home. 

Salm  was  inclined  to  go  with  the  68th  Regiment  to  New 
York,  where  it  was  to  be  disbanded,  but  as  nothing  but  unplea- 
sant things  awaited  him  there,  I  persuaded  him  to  accompany 
me  to  Baltimore  and  Vv^ashington.     The  regiment  left  there- 


118  Ten   Years  of  my  Life. 

fore  without  him  in  a  transport  steamer  for  New  York,  on  the 
6th  December,  while  we  remained  in  Savannah  until  Sunday 
the  loth,  finishing  our  preparations  and  taking  leave  of  our 
many  kind  friends. 

On  that  day  we  went  on  board  the  steamer  '  North  Point/ 
bound  for  Baltimore.  Salm  had  prepared  nice  boxes  for  our 
horses,  which  proved  all  good  sailors,  with  the  exception  of  a 
piebald,  which  became  horribly  sea-sick,  to  the  great  astonish- 
ment of  Captain  Smith,  who  had  never  seen  such  a  case.  I  was, 
however,  still  more  sea-sick  than  the  piebald,  and  felt  ex- 
tremely miserable  until  the  12th  December,  when  we  were 
detained  in  Chesapeake  Bay  by  a  dense  fog. 

We  arrived,  however,  safely  in  Baltimore,  and  went  by  rail 
to  Washington,  where  we  were  received  at  the  depot  by  Colo- 
nel Corvin,  to  whose  home  in  Georgetown  we  went  soon  after- 
wards, to  live  there  until  we  could  decide  upon  our  future. 

The  war  was  over.  All  the  volunteer  generals  and  colonels 
returned  to  their  former  avocations,  and  in  due  time  Salm  was 
dismissed  also.  There  were  many  of  our  friends  in  Washing- 
ton, generals  and  senators,  and  several  of  them  tried  to  per- 
suade Salm  to  enter  the  regular  army.  Many  senators  pro- 
mised to  use  their  influence  to  procure  him  a  commission  as 
colonel,  and  President  Johnson,  who  was  very  favourably  dis- 
posed towards  him,  approved  also  of  that  plan.  Salm,  however, 
did  not  like  to  serve  in  the  regular  army  of  the  United  States 
during  peace. 

Though  he  had  succeeded  very  well  in  that  country,  he 
could  not  fully  be  reconciled  to  the  idea  of  living  there  for  ever, 
and  had  always  in  view  his  final  return  to  Europe  and  his 
family,  to  which  he  was  very  much  attached. 

Having,  however,  spent  his  fortune,  and  losing  his  pay  as 
a  general  with  his  being  dismissed,  necessity  urged  him  to 
deside  soon  what  course  to  take. 

At  that  time  a  great  many  former  officers  were  in  a  position 
similar  to  his,  and  some  of  them  took  steps  to  enter  the  Liberal 
army  of  Mexico.  The  sympathies  of  Salm  were,  however, 
with  the  Emperor  Maximilian,  and  though  many  friends  warned 
him  against  linking  his  fate  to  that  of  this  prince,  they  did  not 
succeed  in  dissuading  him  from  his  purpose.  It  was  in  vain 
that  they  predicted  a  speedy  end  to  the  Mexican  empire,  say- 
ing that  the  Government  of  the  United  States  could  not  and 


Salm  and  the  Mexican  Army.  119 

,would  not  permit  the  establishment  of  a  monarchy  so  close  to 
their  frontiers.  Salm,  who  had  served  in  the  Austrian  army, 
had  a  personal  love  for  the  Emperor  Maximilian,  and  did  not 
doubt  that  he,  having  been  a  general  during  the  war  in  the 
United  States,  would  be  received  by  him  favourably. 

He  communicated  his  intentions  to  the  German  minister, 
Baron  von  Gerolt,  and  also  to  the  French  ambassador,  Mar- 
quis de  IMontholon,  and  the  Austrian  minister,  Baron  von 
VVydenbruck,  who  all  approved  of  his  plan,  and  promised  him 
strong  recommendations.  Even  President  Johnson,  though  he 
could  not  give  him  letters  of  introduction,  did  not  disapprove 
of  it,  and  on  his  request  gave  him  a  very  flattering  testimony, 
in  which  his  services  were  fully  and  favourably  acknowledged. 

Captain  von  Groeben,  who  had  become  much  attached  t(> 
my  husband,  would  not  part  with  him,  and  resolved  to  accom- 
pany him  and  try  his  luck  also  in  Mexico.  I  was  to  remain 
with  the  Corvins  until  I  should  hear  of  Saim's  success. 

In  the  middle  of  February  all  his  preparations  for  the  voyage 
were  made.  Baron  Gerolt  had  given  him  letters  of  introduc- 
tion to  the  German  minister  in  Mexico,  Baron  von  Magnus ; 
Marquis  de  Montholon  gave  him  a  letter  to  Marshal  Bazaine, 
and  the  Austrian  minister  oiie  to  the  Emperor,  to  be  delivered, 
by  Count  Thun. 

I  had  gone  with  Groeben  to  New  York  to  secure  a  berth  on 
board  the  *  Manhattan,'  which  was  to  sail  for  Vera  Cruz  on 
Saturday,  the  24th  February,  1866.  Salm  arrived  in  the  morn- 
ing in  Everett  House,  New  York,  where  he,  met  me  and  Groe- 
ben and  many  friends  who  came  to  take  leave  of  him,  perhaps 
forever. 

I  went  with  Salm  and  Groeben  on  board  the  *  Manhattan,* 
which  was  to  start  at  half-past  three  in  the  afternoon.  I  shall 
not  dwell  on  our  leave-taking.  I  felt  very  sad  and  lonely 
when  I  returned  to  the  hotel,  and  soon  afterwards  to  George- 
town.   , 

The  Corvins  had  to  give  up  their  house  to  its  returning  pro- 
prietors, and  we  rented  another  in  Massachusetts  Avenue, 
Washington.  Time  passed  there  very  quietly  and  pleasantly. 
Though  we  did  not  entertain  much  company,  we  received  now 
and  then  visits  from  some  friends,  and  amongt  them  was  Colo- 
nel Moore,  who  had  charge  of  the  military  cemeteries  around 
Washington  and  in  Virginia.     He  was  an  agreeable   man,  and 


120  Ten   Years  of  TJiy  Life. 

we  made  many  excursions,  either  on  horseback  or  in  a  carriage, 
and  still  more  frequently  in-  a  boat  on  the  beautiful  Potomac. 
The  valleys  of  this  river  above  Washington,  in  the  neighbour- 
hood of  the  chain  bridge,  are  beautiful,  and  we  passed  there 
sometimes  a  whole  day,  taking  with  us  provisions  of  every  kind, 
and  plenty  of  ice  to  cool  our  wine  and  water,  or  to  preserve 
our  meat,  which  even  when  roasted  becomes  alive  in  a  few 
hours  if  that  precaution  is  neglected.  There,  on  the  bank  of 
some  clear  rivulet,  bubbling  over  rocks,  lying  in  luxuriant  grass 
under  the  shade  of  dense  bushes,  we  passed  many  pleasant 
hours,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Corvin  sketching,  and  I  looking  on. 

The  walks  near  the  Potomac,  in  the  cooler  evenings,  are 
delightful.  Whole  clouds  of  fire-flies  hang,  now  higher,  now 
lower,  over  the  meadows,  studded  with  larger  and  more  bril- 
liant glowworms,  which  were  imprisoned  sometimes  in  our 
hair,  so  that  they  formed  round  our  head  a  circle  of  stars. 

The  loud  cicades,  w^hich  in  the  daytime  scarcely  ever  inter- 
rupt their  shrill  monotonous  song,  are  asleep,  and  relieved  by 
*  the  frogs,  whose  song  is  far  different  from  the  discordant  cries 
of  their  European  cousins,  for  they  seem  to  come  from  tiny 
well-tuned  silver  bells.  Between  this  pleasant  dreamy  music  is 
heard  at  intervals  a  single  sound,  as  if  produced  by  the  cord 
of  a  base-viol  pinched  up  between  the  thumb  and  index.  Then 
again  one  is  astonished  by  the  mewing  of  a  little  cat,  coming, 
however,  from  some  catbirds,  awakened  by  us  from  their  sleep, 
whilst  in  the  distance  is  heard  occasionally  the  '  whip-poor- 
will.' 

On  the  4th  of  July,  the  greatest  festival  in  the  Unit^sd  States, 
we  escaped  the  noise  in  the  stieets,  produced  by  hundreds  of 
thousands  of  crackers  and  other  fireworks,  by  making  a  party 
to  the  great  Falls  of  the  Potomac,  about  ten  or  twelve  miles 
from  Washington.  It  is  astonishing  that  these  most  pictu- 
resque Falls  are  not  visited  more  frequently  by  the  Washington 
people.  Were  they  situated  near  a  great  European  city,  thou- 
sands of  tourists  would  constantly  make  them  the  aim  of  their 
excursions,  for  they  are  indeed  most  wonderiul.  It  is  as  if  the 
hands  of  immensely  strong  giants  had  played  there  with  peb- 
bles, as  big  as  four-story  houses,  and  left  them  in  wild  confu- 
sion. Amongst  these  stupendous  black,  sharp-edged  rocks 
rushes  down  the  wide  Potomac.  One  may  look  for  hours  on 
this  spectacle  and  not  get  tired  of  it. 


Death  of  Groehen.  121 

Salm  had  safely  arrived  with  Groeben  in  Mexico,  but  ^^  ™et 
there  with  quite  unexpected  difficulties,  created  by  the  je^-lousy 
of  officers  who  also  wanted,  places,  and  the  intrigues  of  the 
Austrian  minister,  Count  Thun,  who  did  not  even  deliver  the 
letter  of  Baron  Wydenbruck  to  the  Emperor  recommending 
Salm.  He  was  quite  in  despair,  as  I  find  in  his  diary  and  let- 
ters, and  he  was  made  still  more  unhappy  by  the  death  of  poor 
Groeben,  who  died  in  his  arms  on  June  i8. 

At  last,  in  July,  Salm  was  appointed  colonel  on  the  staff  of 
the  Emperor,  and  looked  forward  to  my  joining  him  with  great 
impatience.  He  expected  me  to  depart  on  July  9,  but  I  was 
detained  by  many  circumstances  until  August. 

I  was  ready  at  last,  and  started  from  Washington  on  August 
10.  Driving  with  Colonel  Corvin  to  the  depot  and  passing 
the  White  House,  I  stopped  to  say  good-bye  to  the  President. 
He  had  been  very  kind  to  me,  and  1  had  seen  him  frequently. 
We  were  admitted  at  once.  Asking  him  point-blank  what  he 
thought  of  affairs  in  Mexico,  he  said  that  the  reign  of  the  Em- 
peror would  last  still  a  little  while,  but  he  was  afraid  the  United 
States  would  have  to  interfere,  though  he  personally  sympa- 
thised with  Maximilian.  He  wished  me,  however,  good  suc- 
cess, and  said  that  he  would  always  remember  me  kindly. 

Presenting  to  him  Colonel  Corvin,  whom  he  had,  however, 
seen  before,  I  said  jokingly  that  the  colonel  was  a  great  Cop- 
perhead, on  which  Herr  von  Corvin  laughingly  answered  ht 
did  not  care,  as  the  President  himself  was  called  still  worse 
names  for  his  moderation  in  reference  to  the  conquered. 

I  embarked  at  New  York  on  board  the  *  Manhattan/  the 
same  ship  in  which  Salm  sailed  in  February.  Amongst  the 
passengers  was  a  most  important  and  consequential-looking 
personage,  who  was  called  '  Monsignor,'  and  was  treated  with 
the  utmost  reverence  whenever  he  favoured  the  deck  with  his 
appearance,  which  was  however  rarely,  as  he  preferred  the 
company  of  a  lady  friend  travelling  with  him,  a  spiritual  Sister, 
I  suppose  ;  for  the  six-foot-high,  broad-shouldered,  portly,  and 
haughty-looking  dignitary  of  the  Roman  Church  was  the  well- 
known  Father  Fischer,  entrusted  with  a  mission,  it  was  said, 
to  the  Emperor  Maximilian  of  Mexico. 

When  we,  on  August  13,  arrived  in  Havannah,  we  were  very 
disagreeably  surprised  on  hearing  that  we  should  have  to  re- 
main in  quarantine,  I  do  not  know  for  what  alleged  reasons. 


122  Ten  Years  of  my  Life. 

As  there  was  no  sickness  on  board  our  ship,  which  did  not 
come  from  an  objectionable  pojt,  we  were  very  indignant,  and 
signed  a  protest  against  such  an  annoying  and  superfluous 
measure,  which  we  sent  to  the  American  consul. 

I  had  signed  my  name  also,  and  it  was  very  fortunate  I  did, 
for  without  it  I  would  have  missed  Salm,  and  arrived  in  Vera 
Cruz  whilst  he  looked  for  me  in  vain  in  New  York. 

Impatient  as  he  was.  and  imagining  all  kinds  of  evil  happen- 
ing to  me,  he  requested  leave  of  absence  from  the  Emperor  in 
order  to  fetch  me  from  New  York,  which  was  graciously  granted 
by  the  kind  and  noble  Maximilian. 

Salm,  who  had  arrived  in  the  middle  of  July  in  Vera  Cruz, 
fell  ill  at  that  place  with  the  yellow  fever,  from  which  he  recov- 
ered, however,  unexpectedly  soon,  so  that  he  was  able  to  em- 
bark for  Havannah  on  August  6. 

He  happened  to  be  with  the  American  consul  when  our  pro- 
test arrived,  and  on  reading  the  signatures  Salm  saw  my  name, 
procured  permission  to  go  on  board  the  '  Manhattan,'  where 
he,  however,  had  to  remain  until  the  i8th,  when  the  ship  was 
released  from  quarantine. 

We  were  very  happy  at  this  unexpected  meeting,  and  started 
once  more  reunited  for  Vera  Cruz.  On  the  22nd  we  landed  at 
Susal  in  Yukatan,  a  provmce  belonging  to  the  Mexican  empire, 
where  we  passed  very  agreeable  hours  in  exploring  this  inter- 
esting little  place.  It  is  inhabited  by  a  very  line,  noble-looking 
Indian  tribe,  differing  considerably  from  all  Indians  I  have 
seen  either  in  North  America  or  in  Mexico.  Their  white  dress 
is  very  tasteful  and  picturesque.  Over  a  white  petticoat,  of 
which  the  edges  are  ornamented  with  embroidery  of  the  most 
lively  colours,  representing  flowers  and  arabesques,  they  wear 
a  loose  skirt  embroidered  in  the  same  manner. 

We  left  at  five  o'clock  p.m.,  and  without  any  incident  worth 
mentioning  we  arrived  at  Vera  Cruz,  on  Friday,  August  24, 
and  alighted  in  the  Dlllgencias  Hotel, 


BOOK   II. 


MEXICO. 


125 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

Vera  Cruz — Great  graveyard — A  Mexican  diligence — Robbing  the  diligence 
— A  gentlemanly  sport — Paper  dresses — Terra  Templada — '  Get  out 
if  you  can' — Pulqu6 — In  an  Indian  hut— Orizava — Puebia — The 
plateau  of  Mexico — General  Zerman — Baron  Magnus. 

The  entrance  to  Mexico  is  not  inviting,  but  rather  repulsive. 
Though  glad  to  feel  again  firm  ground  under  your  feet,  your 
sea-tired  eyes  are  longing  in  vain  for  some  refreshing  green, 
for  the  sandy,  sun-baked  coast  is  as  bare  of  vegetation  as  the 
palm  of  your  hand. 

On  approaching  the  regularly-built  town  of  Vera  Cruz,  with 
its  whitewashed  tombstone-like  houses,  you  feel  a  shuddering 
creep  over  your  whole  body,  for  you  are  entering  an  atmos- 
phere reminding  you  of  the  catacombs,  coming  from  the  sur- 
rounding swamps  from  which  a  tropical  sun  distils  poison.  No 
wonder  that  the  yellow  fever  called  Yellow  Jack  by  the  sailors, 
is  master  of  the  place  about  nme  months  in  the  year.  It  is 
the  most  deadly  place  to  Europeans,  of  whom  thousands  are 
buried  around  it. 

On  entering  the  town  tnis  uneafiy  feeling  is  still  increased 
on  seeing  almost  more  vultures  than  people.  These  most  dis- 
gusting scavenger-birds,  called  there  Zapilotes,  are  as  impu- 
dent as  sparrows  in  European  cities  ,  tney  are  protected  by  the 
law,  because  the  carelessness  and  indifference  of  the  inhabi- 
tants to  sanitary  matters  makes  them  a  necessity. 

There  was  nothing  either  in  the  Diligencias  Hotel  or  in  the 
town  to  retain  us,  and  we  left  for  Mexico  next  day  at  two 
o'clock  P.M. 

Though  the  railroad  built  by  the  French  was  by  no  means 
good,  it  was  a  blessing,  for  it  offered  the  means  of  passing 
quickly  through  a  most  dreary  country. 


IdQ  Ten  Years  of  my  Life. 

The  heat  was  overpoweriner,  but  the  cars  were  tolerably  airy, 
and  the  seats  were  not  provic!ed  with  cushions,  which  would 
have  been  quite  intolerable.  We  had  with  us  an  escort  of 
French  soldiers,  and  how  much  they  were  required  was  proved 
by  the  appearance  of  some  guerillas,  who  fled,  however,  after 
a  few  shots. 

The  country  became  more  attractive  towards  the  end  of  our 
journey,  and  we  arrived  without  further  accident  in  Paso  del 
Macho,  where  the  railroad  reached  its  end. 

Next  morning  we  continued  our  journey  per  diligence,  and 
started  at  five  o'clock.  The  coachman  objected  to  the  admit- 
tance of  my  dog  Jimmy  in  the  diligence,  but  the  almighty  dol- 
lar softened  his  heart,  and  on  paying  the  fare  for  a  two-legged 
passenger  my  inseparable  four-legged  companion  was  allowed 
a  seat.  A  French  lady  was  not  so  fortunate,  for  her  splendid 
Newfoundland  dog  was  too  large,  and  she  had,  with  much  re- 
gret, to  leave  it  behind  under  the  care  of  an  attendant.  A 
Mexican'.jdiligence  is  a  most  wonderful  vehicle,  only  surpassed 
by  the  wonderful  roads.  It  is  dragged  along  by  eight  mules, 
first  tvvo  abreast,  then  four,  and  then  again  two.  The  skill  of 
the  coachman  with  a  confusion  of  reins  in  his  hand  is  admir- 
able. His  place  is  indeed  no  sinecure,  for  he  has  to  keep  on 
a  perpetual  conversation  with  his  mules,  which  he  calls  by 
their  names,  animating  them  by  all  imaginable  kinds  of  sounds. 
He  would,  however,  scarcely  succeed  in  persuading  them  to 
do  their  duty  alone  by  means  of  his  eloquence,  if  not  sup- 
ported by  an  aide-de-camp,  a  boy  as  active  as  a  monkey.  Now 
he  runs  along  the  road  collecting  stones,  now  climbs  up  with 
his  load  at  the  side  of  the  coachman,  throwing  with  unerring 
aim  a  stone  at  some  offending  mule,  uniting  his  voice  to  that 
of  his  chief. 

This  man  is  a  very  important  personage,  and  his  pay  is  very 
high — I  believe  nearly  three  hundred  gilders  a  month — besides 
free  board  and  lodging.  He  looks  very  picturesque  with  his 
leather  jacket,  large  gold  ornamented  sombrero  and  shaggy 
zapateros,  or  short  trousers  made  of  goat-skin,  from  which  the 
hair  has  not  been  removed. 

It  occurs  very  frequently  that  the  diligence  is  attacked  and 
plundered  by  robbers,  and  many  horrible  adventures  of  that 
kind  are  recorded,  famishing  the  passengers  no  very  reassuring 
matter  for  conversation,  and  keeping  them  in  a  continual 
excitement. 


PaiJer  Dresses.  127 

To  rob  a  diligence  seems  not  to  be  disgraceful  in  Mexico, 
for  though  it  is  committed  by  common  ruffians  and  thieves, 
even  people  of  a  higher  class  look  upon  it  as  a  chez>aleresque 
sport.  There  are  many  well-to-do  rancheros  or  farmers,  living 
quite  respectably  and  otherwise  in  good  repute,  of  whom  it 
is  said  that  they  indulge  in  this  harmless  amusement  !  The 
robbers  take  care  to  conceal  their  faces,  either  by  blackening 
them  or  in  some  other  manner,  and  if  not  resisted,  or  not  in 
danger  of  being  recognised,  they  rarely  commit  murder.  They 
generally  ride  splendid  horses,  and  are  most  richly  dressed. 

At  some  fivourable  place,  and  there  are  plenty  on  that  road, 
the  mules  are  "suddenly  stopped.  The  coachman  does  not 
even  attempt  to  escape  or  resist ;  it  is  his  policy  to  remain  neu- 
tral, for  if  he  acted  otherwise  it  would  be  not  only  in  vain,  but 
cost  him  his  life — a  bullet  from  behind  some  bush  would  end 
his  career  at  his  next  journey.  He  therefore  in  most  cases  is 
not  molested,  remaining  a  passive  spectator  of  the  scene,  which 
is  enacted  with  incredible  celerity.  Though  the  escort  now 
and  then  furnished  by  the  authorities  is  mostly  absent  w^hen 
needed,  it  sometimes  happens  that  they  are  at  hand,  and  to 
escape  such  danger  the  robbers  are  compelled  to  act  without 
any  ceremony.  Whilst  one  of  them  takes  care  of  the  team, 
two  others,  cocked  pistol  in  hand,  invite  the  passengers  to 
descend  and  to  undress,  as  it  is  well  known  that  they  try  to 
conceal  their  valuables  in  their  clothes.  The  terror  and  con- 
fusion created  by  such  an  order  may  be  imagined  especially  if 
there  are  ladies  amongst  the  passengers. 

An  American  lady,  the  wife  of  a  Southern  general,  who  had 
to  travel  to  Vera  Cruz  with  her  daughter,  was  very  much  afraid 
of  being  subjected  to  such  treatment,  which  would  have  des- 
troyed many  illusions  created  by  Parisian  toilet  art.  She 
therefore,  being  a  very  practical  lady,  provided  against  such 
horrible  emergency  by  having  made  for  herself  and  daughter 
paper  dresses,  which  being  without  value  would  not  tempt  the 
cupidity  of  robbers;  She  had,  however,  no  opportunity  of 
making  use  of  her  ingenious  expedient. 

On  this  journey,  as  on  all  others  I  made  later  in  Mexico,  . 
was  fortunate  enough  never  to  encounter  any  of  these  way- 
laying gentry. 

The  road  and  the  landscape  scene  from  it  became  more  and 
more  interesting,  but  scarcely  for  the  poor  mules,  which  dicl 


128  Ten   Years  of  my  Life. 

their  utmost  to  surmount  incredible  difficulties,  and  we  des- 
cended frequently^  partly  to  lessen  their  load,  but  still  more  to 
escape  for  a  while  the  severe  shaking  and  bumping  which  was 
too  much  even  for  us,  though  used  to  bad  roads  in  the  Ameri- 
can war. 

The  weather  was,  however,  beautiful  and  not  too  hot,  for  we 
had  entered  the  region  called  Terra  Templada.  The  woods 
which  we  passed  were  beautiful,  for  all  the  trees  were  garlanded 
up  to  their  tops  with  a  great  variety  of  creepers  with  splendid 
flowers  of  the  most  brilliant  colours,  vying  with  those  of  large 
butterflies.  It  was  a  most  charming  wilderness,  untouched  by 
the  hand  of  man.  To  our  right  and  our  left  we  saw  deep 
valleys  and  gulHes  overgrown  with  a  confusion  of  luxuriant 
trees  and  plants,  concealing  torrents  of  the  foaming  waters  of 
which  we  only  now  and  then  had  a  glimpse. 

One  place  on  this  road  is  called  Salsi  Puedes — '  Get  out  if 
you  can.'  It  was  either  here  »)r  at  a  similar  place  that  our 
diHgence  broke  down  about  noon.  In  the  neighbourhood  we 
saw  the  hut  of  an  Indian  family.  Though  only  built  of  reeds 
and  covered  with  aloe-leaves,  havin:^  no  windows  but  only  a 
door,  it  appeared  to  us  far  more  inviting  than  any  Mexican 
pulqueria  or  even  hotel,  for  it  was  shaded  by  beautiful  trees 
and  overgrown  with  beautiful  flowers,  of  which  the  Indians  are 
very  fond.  They  are  always  to  be  found  in  great  profusion 
around  their  dwellings. 

The  hut,  which  we  entered,  had  moreover  the  extremely 
rare  advantage  of  scrupulous  cleanliness,  and  the  Indian  couple 
inhabiting  it  received  us  with  great  hospitality.  They  served 
us  tortillas,  a  kind  of  flat  corn-cake,  used  everywhere  in 
Mexico  instead  of  bread — several  kinds  of  fruit  and  pulque, 
the  national  drink  of  the  Mexicans.  It  is  made  from  the 
maguey  plant  (Agave  Americana),  in  Europe  generally  called 
aloe,  which  with  the  different  species  of  cacti,  growing  every- 
where, give  a  Mexican  landscape  its  quite  peculiar  character, 
differing  from  that  of  any  other  country. 

The  maguey  seems  to  be  expressly  made  for  a  lazy  people 
as  all  Mexicans  are,  either  of  Indian  or  European  descent,  for 
it  requires  very  litde  culture,  and  furnishes  a  great  many  things 
for  common  use.  There  are  to  be  seen  very  large  fields  of  this 
plant  everywhere,  protected  by  natural  fences  of  cactus  plants 
with  most  dangerous  thorns,  making  them  quite  impenetrable. 


The  Maguey.  129 

The  maguey  often  reaches  the  height  of  eight  or  nine  feet,  but 
grows  rather  slow,  for  it  requires  about  ten  years  to  arrive  at 
maturity.  Then  springs  forth  from  its  centre  a  very  high-stem- 
med flower,  more  admired  in  European  hothouses  than  in 
Mexico,  where  it  is  not  permitted  to  bloom.  In  the  period 
when  the  plant  is  preparing  for  it,  a  milky  juice  is  collecting  in 
its  centre,  or  heart.  This  is  cut  out  and  a  cavity  made,  which 
is  filled  several  times  a  day  during  three  months  and  longer. 
A  healthy,  strong  plant  will  yield  in  all  not  rarely  one  hundred 
gallons  of  pulqu^.  After  having  given  its  heart's-blood  to  man 
the  plant  dies,  but  from  its  roots  spring  up  a  great  many  baby- 
plants,  which,  removed  in  time  and  transplanted,  grow  up  with- 
out any  care. 

The  leaves  of  the  maguey  or  aloe  are  used  for  many  pur- 
poses :  the  huts  are  roofed  with  them,  and  of  their  tendrils  are 
made  the  most  excellent  cords  and  ropes ;  they  are  also  beaten 
to  a  pulp  from  which  paper  is  fabricated. 

The  cactus  is  rather  a  nuisance  on  account  ot  ..ts  pnckly 
character,  but  after  all,  when  in  bloom,  its  peculiar  shape  and 
the  brilliancy  of  its  yellow  or  burning-red  beautiful  flowers, 
makes  it  a  very  original  ornament,  which  I  would  not  miss  in 
a  Mexican  landscape.  Some  species  bear  an  eatable  fruit, 
.J  similar  to  a  small  fig,  and  one  kind  serves  for  the  breeding  ol 
a  very  useful  insect,  the  cochineal.  I  have  not  seen  such  a 
])lantation,  nor  do  I  know  in  v/hat  part  of  Mexico  this  branch 
of  industry  is  carried  on. 

The  Indian  couple  who  treated  us  with  such  hospitality  liaa 
the  submissive  manner  and  melancholic  look  of  resignation 
always  to  be  noticed  in  nations  that  have  been  subjugated  and 
ill-treated  by  barbarians  for  centuries.  I  think  I  am  not  far 
wrong  in  calling  thus  the  Christian  Spaniards  who  conquered 
Mexico.  I  shall  speak  of  the  Indians  afterwards  more  at  length, 
for  they  are  more  interesting  to  me  than  the  descendants  of 
their  conquerors,  and  1  am  sure  that  they  will  recover  from 
their  present  state  of  subjection  and  misery  when  an  enhght- 
ened  and  strong  government  is  established  in  Mexico.  This 
can  never  be  done  by  the  white  or  Indian  Mexicans  them- 
selves, and  therefore  I  hope  the  United  States  will  find  it  advi- 
sable to  unite  this  rich  country  with  their  republic.  The  In- 
dians of  Mexico  are  different  from  the  savages  of  California 
and  the  more  Northern  States,  and  I  am  sure  that  with  proper 


130  Ten  Years  oj  my  Life 

encouragement  it  would  scarcely  require  fifty  years  to  revive  in 
them  the  industrial  instincts  ©t  their  forefathers. 

Our  friendly  Indians  were  quite  enraptured  when  we  gave 
them  some  broad  pieces,  for  they  are  not  used  to  kind  treat- 
ment from  the  ruling  race. 

Our  diligence  was  repaired  sooner  than  we  expected,  and  we 
continued  our  journey.  AVe  entered  in  the  afternoon  a  very 
well  cultivated  beautiful  country,  studded  with  country  houses 
and  farms,  where  we  saw  large  fields  of  Indian  corn,  sugar- 
cane, and  coffee  and  cacao  plantations,  fine  gardens  with  dif- 
ferent strange-looking  fruit  trees  and  many  palm  trees. 

Towards  evening  we  approached  the  narrow  out  beautiful 
valley  in  which  is  situated  the  town  ot  Orizava,  where  we  were 
to  stop  for  the  night.  It  is  traversed  by  the  rivers  ot  Orizava, 
Puerco,  and  de  los  Aguacates,  and  a  rather  large  place  with 
some  fine  churches  ;  but  most  of  the  private  houses  are  only 
one-storied,  and  the  streets  are  irregular.  I  did  not  see  much 
of  the  town,  for  I  was  rather  fatigued,  and  though  we  were 
badly  lodged  I  was  glad  to  rest  my  sorely  shaken  body. 

Salm  heard  here  that  General  Negre,  to  whose  staff  he  was 
attached,  had  been  transferred  from  Mexico  to  Puebla,  and 
that  he  in  consequence  would  also  have  to  stay  there,  which 
he  did  not  like  at  all. 

We  left  Orizava  next  morning  at  five  o'clock.  Though  the 
weather  in  this  latitude  and  at  that  time  ot  the  year  is  very 
changeable,  we  were  fortunate  in  this  respect  and  could  enjoy 
the  beauty  of  the  country.  Our  journey  was  up-hill  work,  for 
we  ascended  the  Cordilleras  (there  called  Cumbres),  and  the 
road  made  in  olden  times  by  the  Spaniards  was  very  much  out 
of  repair.  At  last  we  reached  its  highest  point,  La  Canada, 
and  arrived  soon  at  an  ugly  village.  Palmar,  situated  in  a  very 
ugly  volcanic  country,  not  much  beautified  by  large  maguey 
fields  with  cactus  inclosures.  The  frame  of  this  dreary  pic- 
ture was,  however,  surpassingly  beautiful,  for  it  was  formed  by 
snow-covered  mountains,  amongst  which  are  most  prominent 
the  Popocatapetl^  the  Ixtaccihuatl,  &c.,  compared  to  which 
even  the  Swiss  mountains  appear  dwarfish. 

It  was  evening  when  we  reached  the  plateau  of  Puebla, 
nearly  seven  thousand  feet  above  the  sea,  and  ane  of  the  rich- 
est parts  of  Mexico,  where  not  only  magueys  and  cactus  and 
Indian   corn  are  to  be  seen,  but  even  wheat-fields.     I  was 


Fuebla.  131 

extremely  glad  when  we  arrived  in  the  city  of  Paebla  at  nine 
o'clock  P.M.  We  alighted  in  the  Hotel  de  Diligencias,  where 
we  were  lodged  comfortably  in  a  large  room  with  three  beds. 
Jimmy,  whose  night  toilet  required  no  preparations,  took  at 
once  possession  of  the  best  of  them,  and  I  followed  his  exam- 
ple as  fast  as  possible,  for  I  never  was  more  tired  in  all  my 
life. 

Next  morning  Salra  reported  himself  to  his  general,  and  re- 
quested leave  of  absence  for  Mexico.  He  visited  General 
Count  Thum,  the  brother  of  the  Austrian  minister,  whom  he 
had  known  in  Austria  when  captain  in  a  regiment  of  Uhlans. 
He  met  here  also  a  former  PRissian  officer.  Count  Nostiz,  whom 
we  had  known  in  the  United  States. 

Puebla  once  rivalled  Mexico,  and  is  still  the  second  city  of 
the  empire.  It  is  traversed  by  the  river  St.  Francisco,  and  the 
rivers  Atoya  and  Alzezeca  flow  near  it.  This  abundance  of 
water  offers  the  means  of  keeping  the  streets  cleaner  than  is 
usually  the  case  in  Mexican  cities.  In  the  middle  of  each 
street  runs  a  stone-covered  canal,  sweeping  away  all  impurities 
which  otherwise  would  be  thrown  into  the  street. 

The  city  is  regularly  built ;  the  streets  are  all  paved  and  pro- 
vided with  side-walks.  There  are  more  than  twenty  squares, 
large  and  small,  and  an  immense  number  of  churches — I  be- 
lieve about  seventy,  the  chapels  included.  I  have  never  seen 
a  city  with  so  many  steeples  and  towers,  which  are  the  more 
prominent  on  account  of  the  flat  roofs  of  the  houses.  There 
are -also  many  other  very  fine  buildings,  for  instance,  monas- 
teries and  nunneries,  hospitals,  and  three  theatres. 

The  principal  place  of  the  city  is  surrounded  with  wide  and 
lofty  portales  or  arcades,  where  the  Indians  exhibit  their  pro- 
duce for  sale  in  the  daytime,  while  they  sleep  there  at  night, 
offering  the  most  curious  and  strange  domestic  pictures. 

The  city  had  then  only  seventy  thousand  inhabitants,  for  its 
number  had  been  diminished  in  former  times  by  epidemics. 
The  eighteenth  century  was  especially  fatal  in  this  respect,  for 
the  plague  appeared  three  times,  and  once  it  came  in  connec- 
tion with  famine.  The  civil  wars  have  also  diminished  its 
population  and  done  great  harm  to  its  industry.  It  had  for- 
merly highly-reputed  manufactories  of  fine  cloth,  glass,  china, 
soap,  and  cutlery,  and  even  now  it  is  in  this  respect  in  advance 
of  Mexico.     Everything  seems  in    Puebla  more    orderly  and 


182     •  Ten   Years  of  wlij  Life. 

more  civilized  than  in  the  xapital,  and    "^ne    does  not  see  so 
many  poor  people  either. 

'The  view  of  the  city  is  fine  from  all  sides,  and  is  rendered 
still  more  so  by  the  great  mountain  forming  the  background. 
Whether  the  fortifications  are  very  strong  I  do  not  know  ;  the 
city  was,  however,  taken  in  1847  by  the  Americans,  and  in 
1863  by  the  French,  after  a  siege  of  two  months. 

We  le'"t  Puebla  on  the  3odi  of  August,  at  three  o'clock  a.m., 
tor  Mexico.  We  had  to  pass  a  mountain  lying  between  the 
plateau  of  Puebla  and  that  still  higher  of  Anatruac.  This  road 
is  not  only  very  bad,  but  also  in  very  bad  repute  on  account  of 
the  many  robbers  frequenting  the  neighbourhood  of  Rio  Frio. 

In  an  hour  or  two  we  reached  the  region  of  fir  trees,  and 
passed  through  splendid  woods  of  cedars  and  fir  species  of 
which  I  do  not  know  the  name,  but  which  look  extremely  pretty, 
tiieir  very  long  light-green  needle  foilage  hanging  down  in 
bundles  from  the  branches.  Very  soon  we  saw  before  us  the 
]">jatcau  ot  JNIexico,  which  is  eighteen  leagues  in  length  and 
twelve  and  a  half  leagues  in  width.  It  is  surrounded  by  the 
most  picturesque  range  of  mountains,  among  which  are  seen 
towering  towards  the  pure  blue  sky  the  stupendous  snow- 
covcrcd  volcanoes. 

The  panorama  presenting  itself  to  the  eye  is  one  of  the  finest 
and  most  pleasing  in  the  world.  The  vast  plain  is  studded 
with  fine  fjrms  and  gardens,  and  here  and  there  with  sheets  of 
water.  Here  and  there,  abruptly  rising  from  the  green  plain, 
are  to  be  seen  hills  which  1  was  told  were  extinct  volcanoes. 
It  is  said  that  the  Spaniards  have  done  much  harm  by  their 
reckless  destruction  of  woods,  which  before  their  arrival  cover- 
ed to  a  great  extent  the  plateau  of  Anahuac,  and  that  in  con- 
sequence of  this  the  fine  lakes  have  diminished  very  much,  the 
springs  which  once  led  them  beiijg  dried  up  by  the  sun,  against 
which  they  were  formerly  protected  by  the  trees. 

The  view  of  the  city  of  Mexico  is  splendid.  That  is  all  I 
will  say,  tor  though  T  have  it  vividly  before  my  eye,  and  could 
perhaps  j)aint  it  if  \  had  the  mechanical  skill,  I  cannot  describe 
it  in  words  in  suci\  a  manner  as  to  give  the  reader  a  fair  idea. 
I  always  found  even  the  finest  and  most  skilful  descriptions  of 
views  and  landr.capes  insufficient,  and  never  succeeded  in 
forming  a  disiincl  jiicture  from  them,  if  I  had  not  seen  the 
landscapes  myself  before. 


General  Zerman.  133 

We  arrived  in  Mexico  at  eight  o'clock  in  the  evening,  and 
drove  directly  for  my  husband's  lodging  in  the  Puente  de  San 
Francisco.  I  considered  it  a  lucky  omen  that  we  entered 
Mexico  on  that  day,  which  was  the  fourth  anniversary  of  my 
wedding,  and  we  celebrated  it  next  day  at  a  dinner  given  to  us 
by  an  acquaintance  of  Felix,  General  Zerman. 

This  gentleman  had  been  a  General  in  the  United  States 
during  the  war.  I  do  not  exactly  know  what  business  brought 
him  to  Mexico,  nor  do  I  believe  he  really  had  any,  though  he 
was  always  very  fussy  and  busy,  and  talked  much  about  enor- 
mous claims  he  had  against  the  United  States  Government. 
Without  being  able  to  state  an  exact  reason  for  it,  one  was  in- 
clined to  suspect  him  of  being  somewhat  of  a  humbug.  He 
was  a  great  dandy,  and  had  the  peculiar  fancy  of  wearing 
always  a  grass-green  suit. 

Next  day  Baron  Magnus,  the  Prussian  minister,  paid  me  a 
visit.  Felix  on  first  arriving  in  Mexico  had  a  letter  of  intro- 
duction to  him  from  kind  Baron  Gerolt,  and  Baron  Magnus 
had  indeed  done  all  he  could  to  assist  him.  He  behaved  also 
in  a  very  friendly  manner  towards  me,  and  though  I  might  have 
wished  him  to  act  with  more  energy  and  decision  under  circum^ 
stances  where  weak  diplomatic  tactics  were  of  no  avail,  a  too 
sharp  criticism  would  grate  upon  my  feelings,  for  towards  my 
husband  and  myself  he  acted  to  the  end  with  great  kindness, 
and  it  would  be  ungrateful  not  to  acknowledge  it  with  thank- 
fulness. Moreover,  I  overrated  perhaps  his  power  and  in- 
fluence in  Mexico,  and  my  eagerness  to  assist  the  Emperor, 
and  to  extricate  him  if  possible  from  his  dangerous  position, 
made  me  perhaps  too  exacting  and  eager  for  a  course  of  action 
,  which  was  not  allowed  to  a  Prussian  minister.  I  am  no  diplo- 
matist, and  if  I  follow  my  impulse,  as  I  generally  do,  I  am  not 
responsib'  ^  to  any  king  or  prime  minister  it  I  commit  a  politi- 
cal blunder;  therefore  I  am  perhaps  no  good  judge  about  the 
actions  of  diplomatists.  If  his  Government  were  satisfied  with 
his  behaviour  in  Mex-ico,  he  may  smile  at  my  unreasonable 
exactions. 

The  Baron  frequently  took  me  out  in  his  carriage  to  show 
me  the  city,  \vith  which  I  became  well  acquainted,  as  I  had  to 
stay  there  several  months. 

Though  Mexico  has  not  been  described  so  frequently  by 
tourists  as  London  and  Paris,  and  a  detailed    account  of  its 


13-i  Toi   Years  of  ^ny  Life. 

beauties,  antiquities,  &c.,  might  be  enteresting  to  European 
readers,  such  a  description  would  overstep  the  limits  of  this 
work,  even  if  I  were  able  to  give  a  satisfactory  one,  which  is 
by  no  means  the  case.  I  therefore  shall  only  touch  superfici- 
ally on  one  or  the  other  subject,  and  give  my  individual  im- 
pressions, or  v/hat  I  learnt  occasionally. 


135 


CHAPTER  IX. 

Origin  of  the  City  of  Mexico — The  Alameda — The  Paseo  Nuevo-  A 
Mexican  gentleman  on  horseback — Promenade  de  la  Viga — The  float- 
ing islands— Theatres— Place  d'Armes— The  Cathedral— The  Sangra- 
lio — Disputacion  Iturbide — Aqueducts — The  National  Museum — The 
Sanctuario  de  Guadakipe— Its  wonderful  origin — The  Creole  Virgin— 
Chapultepec — Humming-birds — Mexican  houses  and  life — Mexican 
ladies — The  Indians — A  Ranchero — Mexican  market. 

There  exist,  of  course,  many  traditions  in  reference  to  the 
early  inhabitants  of  Mexico.  We  should  know  more  of  the 
history  of  the  country  if  the  fanatic  first  Spanish  Archbishop 
had  not  carefully  collected  throughout  the  whole  country  all 
written  records  of  the  Indians,  and  burnt  them  as  heathenish 
abominations  in  the  principal  square  of  Mexico. 

About  a  thousand  years  ago  the  country  was  inhabited  by  a 
very  industrious,  highly  civilized,  and  good-natured  people,  the 
Toltekes.  They  disappeared,  however,  and  were  replaced  by 
'  the  Chichimekes,  a  barbarous  people  of  hunters,  whose  de- 
scendants are  to  be  found  still  in  several  provinces  of  Mexico. 

In  the  twelfth  century  seven  tribes  of  the  Nahuatlakes  came 
from  the  north  and  occupied  the  country.  One  of  these 
tribes  was  that  of  the  Aztekes.  These  wandered  for  a  long 
period  from  one  place  to  the  other  without  deciding  on  a  final 
settlement,  on  account  of  an  old  oracle  ordering  them  to  con- 
tinue their  peregrinations  until  they  should  find  a  cactus  (nopal) 
growing  from  a  rock  and  an  eagel  sitting  on  it  Arrived  on  the 
plateau  of  Anahuac  and  on  the  banks  of  a  lake,  their  priests 
really  saw  an  eagle  sitting  on  a  nopal  plant  growing  from  a 
rocky  mould.  They  now  decided  on  remaining  here,  and 
called  their  cown  Tenochtitlan,  which  means,  '  nopal  on  a  rock.' 
From  this  the  Mexican  arms  derive  their  origin. 


1.36  Ten   Years  of  my  Life. 

The  town  was  later  called  Mexico,  which  either  comes  frorh 
an  Indian  word  signifying  a  fountain,  or  more  probably  from 
Mexitli,  the  name  of  one  of  their  principal  idols.  As  the  date 
of  the  fountain  of  Tenochtitlan  is  given  the  i8th  July,  1327. 

At  the  time  when  Cortez  arrived  in  Mexico  the  city  had 
300,000  inhabitants.  1  shall  not  speak  of  its  past  splendour, 
for  it  is  described  in  hundreds  of  books  containing  the  history 
of  the  Conquest.  But  all  this  splendour,  all  the  magnificent 
buildings,  have  been  destroyed,  for  Cortez,  furious  at  the  resis- 
tance of  the  Aztekes,  destroyed  their  city  on  the  13th  of 
August,  1 521,  and  very  soon  commenced  to  rebuild  it  after  a 
new  plan. 

'  Thus  originated  the  present  city  of  Mexico,  which  is  now 
inhabited  by  200,000  people.  It  is  six  leagues  in  circumfer- 
ence, and  has  four  hundred  and  eighty-two  streets,  which  are 
mostly  straight,  paved,  and  provided  with  side-walks.  There 
are  sixty  large  and  smaller  squares,  fifteen  monasteries,  twenty- 
two  nunneries,  seventy-eight  churches  and  chapels,  three  great 
iheatres,  two  arenas  for  bull-fights,  three  principal  promenades, 
len  hospitals,  &c. 

The  streets  of  Mexico  are  extremely  long  and  mostly  wide. 
The  houses  have  never  more  than  two  storeys,  and  on  the  out- 
side look  extremely  plain  and  monotonous.  They  have  all  the 
appearance  of  huge  cubes,  on  account  of  their  flat  roofs. 
These  flat  roofs  form  a  kind  of  yard,  and  are  always  surrounded 
with  a  breast-high  wall. 

Like  all  Spanish  cities,  Mexico  has  its  Alameda.  Don  Luis  > 
Velasco,  one  of  the  earliest  viceroys,  commenced  it  in  1593. 
It  closed  then  the  Quemadero,  the  place  where  the  Inquisition 
burnt  more  poor  Indians  than  the  priests  of  the  Aztekes  slaugh- 
tered in  honour  of  Vitzliputzli.  The  establishment  of  a  pleasure- 
ground  near  this  horrid  place  was  at  that  time  not  thought 
improper,  for  the  burning  of  heretics  and  wretches  who  could 
not  understa-nd  the  mysteries  of  the  Christian  religion  was  then 
a  very  fashionable,  and  at  the  same  time  religious,  recreation. 
At  the  end  of  the  eighteenth  century,  religion  had  become  less 
ferocious,  and  the  Viceroy,  Count  de  Revillagigedo,  who  orna- 
mented and  enlarged  the  Alameda  to  its  present  extent,  removed 
this  disgraceful  abomination. 

The  ^\■hole  Alameda  forms  an  oblong  square  of  five  hundred 
yards  by  two  hundred  and  sixty,  and  is  enclosed  by  a  wall, 


Promenade  de  Bitcarelli.  137 

along  which  are  stone  benches.  The  whole  place  is  traversed 
by  numerous  walks,  formed  by  different  shady  trees,  and  em- 
bellished with  flower-beds  and  a  number  of  fountains,  amongst 
which  are  two  ornamented  with  statues,  and  otherwise  in  a  taste- 
ful manner. 

Though  the  grounds  looked  somewhat  neglected,  the  Alam- 
eda is  a  very  agreeable  place,  of  which  the  Mexicans  are  rather 
proud.  It  is  especially  interesting  in  the  morning,  w'hen  the 
ladies  returning  from  church,  and  the  gentlemen  from  their 
promenades  on  horseback,  meet  in  the  shady  avenues,  talking 
and  flirting,  or  sitting  ofe  the  benches  to  listen  to  the  music  of 
the  French  band,  which  played  several  days  in  the  week  from 
eight  until  ten  o'clock.  Most  of  the  popular  festivals,  for  inst- 
ance, Independence  Day — September  13 — are  celebrated  in 
the  Alameda. 

Another  fashionable  promenade  for  carriages  and  equestrians, 
the  Rotton  Row  of  Mexico,  is  the  Promenade  de  Bucarelli,  so 
called  because  it  was  inaugurated  by  the  Viceroy,  Antonio 
Maria  BucarelH,  in  1778  ;  now  it  is  more  frequently  called  II 
Paseo  Nuevo.  It  is  a  very  long  avenue,  formed  b)  four  rows 
of  ugly,  crippled  trees.  The  carriage-road  in  t}ie  middle,  and 
those  at  each  side  of  it  for  equestrians,  are  badly  kept.  There 
are  some  fountains  with  rather  ugly  statues,  and  also  a  large 
equestrian  bronze  statue  of  Charles  IV.  of  Spain,  made  by  the 
sculptor,  Don  Manule  Tolsa.  The  Mexicans  imagine  that  it 
is  the  most  perfect  statue  ui  the  world,  and  it  is  indeed  a  credit- 
able work.  It  is  more  than  five  yards  high,  and  stands  on  a 
pedestal  of  stone,  and  within  an  iron  railing.  It  was  at  first 
placed  on  the  great  square,  but  lest  it  might  be  destroyed  by 
the  people  it  was  removed  by  the  Government  to  a  less  exposed 
place  and  finally  transported,  in  1852,  to  the  Paseo  Nuevo. 

Not  far  from  this  statute  we  find  the  Plaza  de  Toros,  a  cir- 
cular wooden  building  of  seventy  yards  diameter,  with  two 
tiers  of  boxes  and  seven  rows  of  benches,  where  ten  thousand 
persons  may  find  room.  The  building  looks  quite  elegant 
with  its  many  columns.  The  first  bull-fight  in  Mexico  w^as 
held  in  the  time  of  Fernando  Cortez. 

The  beau-monde  of  Mexico  drive  there  in  the  afternoon,  at 
six  o'clock.  It  is  indeed  a  caricature  of  Hyde  Park,  for 
scarcely  any  decent  carriages  are  to  be  seen,  and  many  of  them 
look  as  if  they  had   been   built  at  the  time  of  the  Conquest. 


1S8  Ten   Years  of  my  Life, 

The  animals  drawing  these  vehicles  are  suited  to  them,  for  the 
horses  of  that  country  do  not  easily  submit  to  this  service,  and 
mules  are  almost  always  preferred.  Though  the  turn-outs  may 
not  bear  comparison  with  those  of  Hyde  Park  or  the  Bois  de 
Boulogne,  the  ladies  sitting  in  these  closed  boxes  may  vie  in 
beauty  with  any  in  the  world.  They  appear  on  the  Paseo 
always  in  evening  toilet — that  is,  low  dresses  and  flowers  in 
the  hair. 

The  gentlemen  are  there  on  their  finest  horses  and  in  their 
richest  riding  costumes.  When  walking  in  the  street  they  look 
like  European  gentlemen,  but  for  riding  on  horseback  they 
always  wear  a  peculiar  rich  and  becoming  costume.  All  of 
them  have  a  large  brimmed  sombreros  more  or  less  gorgeously 
ornamented  with  gold  tassels  and  cords.  Their  short  jackets 
of  cloth  are  set  with  arabesques  in  braid,  and  with  a  great 
quantity  of  small  silver  buttons;  Over  their  ordinary  trousers 
they  wear  others,  which  reach  only  from  the  foot  to  the  knee  ; 
they  are  very  wide,  cover  the  whole  foot,  and  arc  richly  em- 
broidered with  gold  and  silver.  They  look  indeed  very  elegant 
on  horseback,  and  when  dismounting  they  ahvays  reminded 
me  of  that  peculiar  kind  of  pigeons  which  have  their  feet 
covered  with  long  feathers.  The  silver  spurs  they  use  are 
remarkably  large,  with  wheels  like  saucers. 

The  Mexican  horses  are  extremely  fine,  intelligent  and 
strong,  but  rather  small.  They  are  as  much  covered  with 
finery  as  their  masters,  and  even  more.  The  saddles  are,  I 
might  say,  the  opposite  of  English  saddles,  for  they  are  more 
like  a  chair  with  large  pommels  and  high  backs,  covered  with 
silver  ornaments.  Behind  the  saddle  is  always  fastened  the 
serape  of  the  rider,  a  kind  of  long  plaid  used  by  both  sexes. 
The  silver-studded  bridle  seems  to  me  the  most  cruel  thing 
imaginable,  for  the  curb,  a  very  large  iron  ring,  is  so  sharp  that 
the  jaw  of  a  horse  might  easily  be  broken  by  it.  The  reins 
are  a  many  coloured  silk  cord.  Behind  the  saddle  hang  from 
both  sides  shaggy  goat-skins,  v^'hich  serve  as  covers  for  the, 
pistol-cases.     A  lasso  is  also  attached  to  the  saddle. 

Mexican  gentlemen  appear  accoutred  in  this  manner  as  well 
on  the  promenade  as  on  a  journey  ;  and  I  must  say  that  they 
look  extremely  picturesque. 

From  the  statue  of  Charles  IV.,  the  barrier  at  the  end  ot 
the  promenade,  the  distance  is   nearly  twelve  hundred  yards. 


Chapulte2')ec.  139 

The  principal  fountain  is  about  in  the  middle.  To  the  right 
and  left  of  the  avenue  are  rather  wet  meadows,  serving;  as  a 
pasture  for  cattle.  It  is  a  pity  that  they  are  not  planted  with 
trees  and  shrubs,  and  laid  out  as  a  park.  No  finer  place 
in  the  whole  world  could  be  found,  for  nowhere  is  to  be  had 
a  more  charming  view  Vvherever  the  eye  may  look. 

Towards  the  east,  beyond  a  beautiful  plain  covered  with  fine 
clusters  of  trees  and  studded  with  villas,  is  seen,  on  rocks,  the 
aid  palace  of  Chapultepec,  from  whence  comes  the  excellent 
drinking  water,  brought  there  by  splendid  aqueducts,  which 
unfortunately  are  much  out  of  repair  in  consequence  of  the 
civil  wars. 

Looking  towards  the  south-west,  we  see  on  the  bluish  back- 
ground of  the  mountains  several  fine  villages,  as  Mixcoai, 
'  florido,'  Padierno  and  Churubusko,  '  ensangrentados,'  San 
Angel,  and  Coyoacom  ;  whilst  turning  to  the  south-east  we 
admire  the  mountain  giants,  Popocateptl  and  Ixtaccihuatl, 
whose  snowy  heads  seem  to  pass  through  the  blue  of  the  sky. 

Turning  towards  the  west  we  see  the  hundred  towers  of 
Mexico. 

The  Promenade  de  la  Viga  is  that  of  the  people,  and  who- 
ever wants  to  become  acquainted  with  the  habits,  tastes,  and 
peculiarities  of  the  middle  and  lower  classes  of  Mexicans  will 
find  here  the  best  opportunity. 

The  Canal  de  la  Viga  serves  as  a  means  of  communication 
between  the  two  lakes  of  the  plain  of  Mexico,  called  Texcoco 
and  Chalco.  The  ancient  Tenochtitlan  resembled  Venice,  for 
it  was  crossed  by  an  immense  number  of  canals,  which  in  re- 
ality formed  its  streets.  The  Canal  de  la  Viga  is  the  only  one 
remaining.  The  promenade  runs  along  it,  and  is  m.ost  fre- 
quented in  the  months  of  April  and  May,  especially  at  the  hour 
between  six  and  seven  p.m.  It  is  much  enlivened  by  the 
many  people  who  embark  here  to  visit  neighbouring  villages, 
for  which  purposes  there  are  always  a  great  many  pirogues 
ready,  conducted  by  Indians. 

The  two  favourite  villages  are  Santa  Anita  and  Ixtacalco, 
situate  on  the  Canal  de  la  Viga,  and  about  a  league  from 
Mexico.  They  are  inhabited  only  by  Indians,  and  probably 
have  not  changed  since  the  Conquest.  There  are  still  to  be 
seen  the  old  Mexican  'chinampas,'  or  floating  islands,  in  which 
are  grown  the  most  beautiful  flowers  and  vegetables.     Similar 


14rO  Ten   Years  of  my  Life. 

establishments,  I  heard  from  a  traveller  friend,  are  to  be  found 
also  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Canton  in  China. 

All  the  inhabitants  of  these  villages  have  such  little  gardens, 
from  which  they  earn  their  living.  They  make  more  than 
twelve  thousand  piastres  a  year  by  selling  flowers  in  Mexico. 
The  construction  of  these  fertile  floating  islands  is  very  simple. 
The  foundation  is  a  sufliciently  thick  float  made  of  rushes,  and 
on  this  is  laid  good  garden  soil.  In  spring  especially  these 
floating  gardens  offer  a  most  charming  and  original  sight, 
although  they  are,  on  account  of  their  humidity,  all  the  year 
round  covered  with  flowers  and  vegetables.  It  is  quite  surpris- 
ing to  see  the  manner  in  which  they  are  occasionally  trans- 
ported from  one  place  to  another,  which  is  very  simply  done 
by  attaching  them  to  a  pirogue  directed  by  two  Indians. 

From  the  first  Sunday  after  Ash  Wednesday  until  Whit-Sun- 
day the  pirogues  at  the  Promenade  de  la  Viga  are  always 
crowded,  each  containing  sometimes  fifty  people  sitting  on  the 
board,  whilst  in  the  centre  three  or  four  musicians  make  a 
musical  noise,  not  very  sweet  to  the  ear,  but  satisfactory  to  one 
or  two  couples  of  female  dancers,  executing  the  Jarabe,  Pala- 
ma,  or  other  popular  dances.  All  these  people  amuse  .them- 
selves amongst  the  Indians  with  eating  and  drinking  pulque 
until  sunset,  when  they  return  to  the  city  crowned  with  roses 
or  other  flowers,  and  loaded  with  bouquets. 

Mexico  has  four  or  five  theatres,  of  which  two  are  excellent. 
The  Theatre  Iturbide  is  a  very  fine  building,  and  would  be  an 
ornament  to  any  European  city.  Its  interior  is  not  only  very 
elegant  and  tasteful,  but  also  very,  convenient  and  spacious. 
There  are  several  tiers  of  boxes  with  fine  white  columns  orna- 
mented with  golden  garlands  of  flowers,  and  behind  them 
everywhere  great  saloons  and  other  rooms,  provided  with  all 
comforts  required  for  the  toilet,  for  the  ladies  appear  always  in 
full  dress,  and  the  excellent  light  from  a  splendid  crystal  lustre 
permits  them  to  be  seen  and  admired. 

Amongst  the  many  squares  of  the  Mexican  capital,  the  Place 
d'Armes  is  the  largest  and  finest,  for  it  is  surrounded  by  the 
most  remarkable  buildings  of  the  city.  It  is  a  large  parallelo- 
gram with  a  candelabra  in  its  centre,  within  a  square  walk 
shaded  by  two  rows  of  trees.  It  is  entirely  paved  and  kept 
tolerably  clean. 

,On  its  north  side  stands  the  Cathedral  of  Mexico,  on  the 


AzteJdc  Science.  141 

identical  place  where  once  stood  the  '  TeocalH,'  or  Temple  of 
Vitxliputzli,  or,  rather,  Huitzilopotchli,  the  god  of  war  of  the 
Aztekes.  It  was  commenced  in  1573  by  order  of  Philip  II., 
and  finished  only  in  1657.  It  is  built  of  large  cubes  of  por- 
phyry, and  stands  on  an  estrade,  and  is  surrounded  by  a  walk 
formed  by  columns  of  two  yards"  in  height,  and  connected  by 
chains.  At  a  distance  from  these  columns  are  planted  pine- 
trees.  At  each  of  two  corners  of  the  '  cadenas,'  or  chain-closed 
walk,  stand  on  a  pedestal  of  five  yards  in  height  four  death's- 
heads,  and  a  cross  with  a  serpent  around  its  foot. 

1  cannot  give  a  minute  description  of  this  imposing  building, 
as  I  do  not  understand  much  of  architecture.  The  style  m 
which  the  cathedral  is  built  seems  to  me  a  mixed  one.  Doric 
and  Ionic  columns  are  alternately  used  in  the  two  square 
towers,  which  are  seventy-three  yards  high,  and  have  bell- 
shaped  tops  with  a  cross  on  them. 

The  principal  front  looking  towards  the  south,  had  three 
entrances,  which  are  ornamented  with  statutes  and  alto  relievos. 
At  the  side  of  one  of  the  towers  is  a  very  curious  relic  of 
Azetekic  science,  a  gigantic  kind  of  almanac,  which  is  about 
fourteen  yards  in  circumference.  It  is  made  of  solid  stone, 
and  on  it  are  many  symbolic  figures.  This  interesting  anti- 
quity was  found,  in  1790,  buried  in  the  ground. 

In  the  towers  are  forty-eight  bells,  of  which  the  largest  is  six 
yards  high,  and  called  Santa  Maria  de  Guadalupe. 

The  interior  of  the  cathedral  consists  of  five  naves,  of  which 
two  are  closed  and  three  open.  The  lofty  and  boldly-arched 
vaults  rest  on  large  clusters  of  Ionic  columns.  There  are  in 
the  church  fourteen  closed  chapels  and  six  altars,  besides  the 
principal,  which  stands  in  the  centre.  It  may  be  approached 
from  all  four  sides  by  seven  large  steps,  and  is  enclosed  by  a 
balustrade  made  of  tombac,  on  which  stand  sixty-two  statutes 
of  the  same  metal,  each  holding  in  his  hands  a  candelabra 
filled  with  wax  candles.  This  balustrade  and  similar  work  in 
this  cathedral  were  made  in  Macao,  in  China.  This  chief  altar 
reaches  nearly  to  the  ceiling. 

It  is  a  pity  that  the  fine  proportions  of  this  cathedral  are 
spoilt  by  so  many  little  chapels  and  compartments,  and  also 
by  painted  wooden  statues  of  saints,  &c.,  and  other  flimsy 
ornaments. 

The  ornaments    of  the  principal  altar   are,    however,    no"" 


142  Ten   Years  of  my  Life. 

flimsey  at  all ;  most  of  theiu  are  made  of  solid  gold,  and  some 
set  with  diamonds,  rubies,  sapphires,  &a  One  golden  cibor- 
ium  is  embellished  by  1,676  diamonds.  One  of  these  vessels 
— I  really  do  not  know  how  it  is  called — which  is  a  yard  high, 
and  weighs  eighty-eight  marks  in  gold,  has  on  one  of  its  sides 
5.872  diamonds,  and  another  2,653  emeralds,  forty-four  rubies, 
eight  sapphires,  &c.  The  value  of  this  altar  must  be  enormous, 
and  I  only  wonder  that  the  different  Revolutionary  Govern- 
ments, which  frequently  were  in  want  of  money,  did  not 
borrow  from  the  church.  One  golden  statute,  weighing  6,984 
golden  castellanos  (an  old  coin),  and  set  with  precious  stones, 
has,  however,  found  its  way  to  the  crucible. 

Close  to  the  cathedral,  and  spoiling  somewhat  its  effect,  is 
the  parish  church  of  Mexico,  called  the  Sangrario.  On  that 
place  stood  the  oldest  cluirch  in  Mexico,  which  was  burned 
down,  and  was  rebuilt  at  the  end  of  the  seventeenth  centurv 
in  rococo  style — which  in  Germany  is  sometimes  railed  pigtail 
style.  The  faQade  is,  however,  very  neatly  and  elaborately 
made,   but  spoilt  by  some  statutes  of  extremely  ugly  saints. 

Opposite  the  cathedral,  forming  the  southern  side  of  the 
Place  d'Armes,  is  the  town  hall,  or  Disputacion.  The  old 
building  was  destroyed  in  a  riot  caused  by  a  famine.  The 
Viceroy  had  bought  all  the  Indian  corn  to  be  had  everywhere, 
it  is  said,  to  distribute  it  to  the  people ;  but,  the  people  said, 
to  sell  it  at  high  prices  for  his  own  benefit.  The  damage  done 
at  this  riot  was  estimated  at  three  million  piastres.  The  new 
building  is  a  fine  substantial  structure  of  two  stories,  with 
arcades  on  the  ground  floor  and  balconies  to  each  window  of 
the  first  floor. 

One  of  the  two  other  sides  of  the  square  is  occupied  by  the 
National  Palace,  the  official  dwelling  of  the  Viceroys,  as  also 
ot"  the  Emperor  Iturbide.  It  is  no  particular  ornament  to  the 
place. 

At  the  opposite  side  we  find  the  most  elegant  shops  of 
Mexico,  and  also  coft'ee-houses  and  restaurants. 

One  ot  the  finest  buildings  in  Mexico  is  the  Mining  School 
— II  Colegio  de  IMineria— built  of  green  porphyry.  Mexicans 
also  much  admire  the  house  of  Iturbide,  so  called  because  this 
general  lived  here,  when  one  fine  night — i8th  May,  1822 — a 
sergeant  had  the  idea  of  proclaiming  General  Iturbide  Em- 
peror of  Mexico.     The  people  caught  up   this  cry,  and  the 


General  Santa  Anna.  143 

general  had  no  objection  to  ascend  the  old  throne  of  Monte- 
zuma. On  July  2  1,  he  was  crowned  as  Emperor  Augustin  I. 
Several  European  princes,  to  whom  this  dangerous  crown  had 
been  offered,  had  refused. 

General  Santa  Anna,  a  very  ambitious  and  intriguing  man, 
who  had  been  a  great  favourite  of  Iturbide,  fell  off  from  him, 
and  headed  an  insurrection,  in  consequence  of  which  the  new 
Emperor  had  to  fly,  in  1S20,  with  his  family  to  Europe.  Re- 
lying on  his  popularity,  he  returned  to  Mexico  in  the  summer 
of  1824,  was  taken  prisoner,  and  shot.  His  name  is,  however, 
still  popular,  and  many  places  and  establishments  in  Mexico 
bear  his  name. 

The  house  in  which  he  lived,  and  which  is  built  in  rococo 
style,  is  now  an  hotel,  and  called  by  its  industrious  owner 
'  Hotel  Iturbide.' 

I  have  mentioned  already  the  aqueducts,  which  convey  good 
water  from  two  different  directions.  For  drinking  it  is  always 
iced,  as  in  the  United  States,  and  the  Mexican  mountains, 
especially  the  Popocatopetl,  furnish  plenty  of  this  absolutely 
necessary  commodity.  Great  quantities  are  also  imported  from 
North  America. 

At  the  end  of  the  aqueduct  of  Belen,  which  comes  from  the 
inexhaustible  basin  of  Chapultepec,  has  been  built  in  rococo 
style  a  fountain,  called  Salto  del  Agua.  It  is  more  curious 
than  pretty,  and  by  no  means  embellished  by  two  ugly  sitting 
female  figures.  In  the  centre  there  is  an  alto  relievo,  repre- 
senting the  arms  of  Mexico  as  the  Spanish  kings  wanted  it.  It 
is  a  European  eagle,  with  a  cross  on  its  breast,  holding  a  shield 
with  arms  around  it.  The  Republic  has  accepted  the  old 
Azteke  eagle,  sitting  on  a  cactus.  More  interesting  than  the 
structure  of  this  fountain  is  the  life  around  it,  and  amongst  the 
people  crowding  there  the  aguadores,  or  water  carriers,  occupv 
the  most  prominent  place.  They  fill  with  this  water  large  bul- 
let-shaped earthen  vessels  with  handles,  which  they  carry  by 
means  of  leather  straps  fastened  over  their  shoulders,  or  some 
times  their  heads.  Their  cries  of  '  Agua  '  are  heard  all  day. 
They  pour  the  water  into  the  large  stone  filters,  which  are  every- 
where. 

I  shall  mention  here  that  bath-rooms  are  in  almost  every 
house,  and  there  are  also  many  public  baths.  The  Mexican 
ladies   generally  take  their  baths  after  returning  from  their 


144  Ten  Years  of  ony  Life. 

morning  promenade  in  the  Alameda,  and  afterwards  they  are 
to  be  seen  walking  on  the  lei;races  of  their  houses  drying  their 
mostly  very  rich  long  hair,  hanging  around  them  like  a  cloak. 

Some  of  the  convents  would  perhaps  deserve  a  description  ; 
but  I  am  tired  of  architecture. 

Interesting  is  a  visit  to  the  National  Museum,  on  account 
of  the  Indian  antiquities.  I  shall  not  venture  on  an  explana- 
tion and  description  of  all  the  very  curious  ugly  idols  collected 
there.  Most  of  the  statues  remind  me  of  those  of  the  Egypt- 
ians, as  seen  in  the  Museum  in  London  and  in  the  Louvre  ; 
whilst  other  things  one  remembers  having  seen  amongst  the 
Chinese  curiosities.  These  antiquities  make  us  acquainted 
with  many  customs  and  the  domestic  life  of  the  Aztekes,  and  I 
am  sure,  if  some  able  persons  would  examine  the  ground  half 
as  carefully  as  it  has  been  done  in  Italy  and  Greece,  many 
things  would  be  found  which  might  give  ample  information  in 
reference  to  the  history  of  the  country,  which  now,  as  stated 
before,  is  very  imperfect,  thanks  to  the  imbecile  act  of  the  first 
Archbishop. 

On  seeing  the  many  things  collected  in  this  museum,  and 
admiring  the  workmanship  and  the  high  polish  of  extremely 
hard  substances,  one  wonders  in  what  manner  they  could  have 
done  it,  since  the  Aztekes  had  neither  steel  nor  iron,  though 
plenty  of  copper,  silver,  gold,  pewter,  and  lead.  The  silver 
and  golden  jewellery  of  the  Aztekes  is  indeed  wonderful.  They 
understood  also  the  art  of  enamelling. 

Amongst  the  many  interesting  trifles  I  noticed  a  kind  of  or- 
nament, shaped  like  a  little  sombrero,  and  made  of  obsidian, 
and  was  rather  astonished  on  learning  that  it  was  a  military  de- 
coration. It  called  tentetl  (lip-stone)  because  it  was  worn  in 
the  under-lip;  I  suppose  in  the  same  manner  as  I  have  seen 
it  in  pictures  representing  some  Indian  tribe  of  South  America. 
This  decoration  was  awarded  to  warriors,  not  those  who  killed 
enemies,  but  those  who  made  them  prisoners,  leaving  the  kill- 
ing probably  for  the  priests.  In  some  of  these  tentls  were 
fastened  small  bunches  of  the  brilliant  feathers  of  humming- 
birds, and  I  suppose  this  was  a  higher  class  of  the  order,  like 
the  bows,  leaves,  swords,  &c.,  attached  as  a  distinction  to 
several  Prussian  orders.  All  the  servants  of  the  Mexican  Em- 
ptTor  had  tne  privilege  of  v/earing  such  tentetls  made  of  rock 
crystal. 


Sanctuario  de  Guadalupe.  145 

As  I  have  not  described  any  of  the  convents  of  the  city,  I 
shall  make  up  for  this  negHgence  by  speaking  more  at  length 
of  the  most  holy  place  in  the  whole  empire,  only  one  league 
from  Mexico  ;  it  is  the  Sanctuario  de  Guadalupe.  Before 
describing  it,  I  must  first  state  the  miracle  from  which  it  origi- 
nated. 

What  effective  means  the  conquistadores  employed  in  con- 
vincing the  Indian  heathens  of  the  truth  of  Christianity  I  have 
mentioned  already,  and  many  Indians,  though  not  very  well 
understanding  all  the  mysteries  of  the  religion,  found  it  not 
hard  to  change  their  ugly  idols  for  the  Holy  Virgin  and  the 
saints,  whose  images  looked  far  more  attractive. 

It  was  ten  years  after  the  Conquest,  in  the  year  1531,  when 
there  lived  in  the  village  of  Tolpetlac  a  recently-converted 
Indian,  who  had  received  in  baptism  the  name  of  Juan  Diego. 
I-Ie  v\^as  a  good  man,  and  frequently  went  to  Santiago  Tlalti- 
luclo,  where  the  Franciscans  taught  the  Christian  religion. 
Once,  when  crossing  a  mountain  ridge,  which  ended  near  the 
lake  of  Texcoco,  in  a  point,  called  the  '  Nose  of  the  hill,' — in 
Spanish  '  Nariz  del  cerro,'  and  in  Indian  'Tepetlyecaczol,' — 
he  heard  some  extremely  sweet  music,  of  a  kind  that  he  had 
never  heard  either  amongst  the  Spaniards  or  his  own  people. 
Looking  wonderingly  around  he  saw  a  rainbow,  far  more  bril- 
liant than  he  had  ever  seen,  and,  framed  by  it,  and  in  the  mid- 
dle of  a  white  transparent  cloud,  a  very  sweet-looking  hand- 
some lady,  dressed  like  one  of  the  court  ladies  of  his  late 
heathenish  Emperor.  The  poor  ignorant  man  did  not  guess 
who  she  was,  but  was  not  afraid,  and  approaching  her,  she  told 
him  that  she  was  '  the  Mother  of  God,'  and  wanted  the  erec- 
tion of  a  temple  in  her  honour  on  that  very  spot,  promising 
protection  to  all  those  who  would  pray  there,  and  ordering 
Juan  Diego  to  tell  the  Bishop  what  he  had  seen  and  heard. 

Fray  Don  Juan  de  Zuniiirraga;  a  Franciscan,  and  Bishop  of 
Merico,  would  not  believe  in  the  story,  and  sent  the  Indian 
away.  The  Holy  Virgin,  however,  was  not  satisfied  with  this 
and  appeared  to  him  three  times  again.  Troubled  in  his 
mind,  and  not  daring  to  go  again  to  the  Bishop,  he  resolved 
to  confide  in  a  confessor,  whom  he  would  consult  also  about 
his  uncle,  Juan  Bernardino,  who  was  very  dangerously  ill. 
Afraid  of  encountering  again  '  the  Mother  of  God,'  he  took 
another  road  ;  but  at  a  place,  which  is  still  to  be  secognised, 


146  Ten   Years  of  'my  Life, 

which  seems  rather  strange,  by  a  smell  of  brimstone,  and  a 
spring  of  which  the  water  has  tke  taste  of  that  suspicious  min- 
eral, she  appeared  for  the  fifth  time,  told  him  that  his  uncle 
was  perfectly  well  again,  and  ordered  him  to  gather  roses  on 
the  sumit  of  the  mountain,  which  he  should  bring  to  the 
Bishop  as  a  token  that  all  he  had  told  was  true. 

Now,  on  that  mountain  had  never  before  grown  anything 
but  thistles  and  thorns ;  but  when  the  Indian  went  there,  he 
found  the  most  beautiful  and  most  odoriferous  flowers,  which 
he  put  in  his  tihna,  and  went  to  the  Bishop. 

This  gentleman,  on  being  informed  of  the  errand  of  the 
Indian,  came,  with  some  priests  running  eagerly 
after  him.  Juan  Diego  told  his  adventure  in  all  his  simplicity^ 
and  when  untying  the  two  ends  of  his  tilma,  to  produce  the 
roses,  lo  !  the  Bishop  and  all  the  priests  fell  on  their  knees  as 
if  struck  by  lightening,  for  on  theayateof  the  fortunate  Indian 
was  impressed  the  image  of  the  Holy  Virgin,  as  the  face  of  our 
Saviour  was  impressed  on  the  handkerchief  of  St.  Veronica. 

Now  of  course  all  doubts  were  removed  :  the  miracle  was 
evident.  It  happened  on  the  12th  of  December^  i53i>  ten 
years  and  four  months  after  the  Conquest,  under  the  pontifi- 
cate of  Clevent  VII.,  and  during  the  reign  of  the  Emperor 
Charles  V. 

What  appears  to  me  especially  wonderful  is,  that  on  the 
celestial  picture  the  Holy  Virgin  is  not  only  represented  in  an 
Indian  dress,  but  also  an  Indian  face  and  complexion  ;  though 
I  ought  not  to  wonder,  knowing  that  she  appeared  in  Africa 
like  a  negress,  and  having  seen  in  Rome  a  picture  of  the 
Mother  of  God  with  a  black  face. 

When  the  Bishop  recovered  from  his  stupefaction  he  over- 
whelmed the  blessed  Indian  with  compliments,  and  went  out 
to  visit  the  places  sanctified  by  the  apparations.  He  took  the 
miraculous  picture  first  to  his  house,  and  transferred  it  a  few 
days  later  to  the  Cathedral. 

This  picture  is  painted,  probably  by  some  angel,  on  a  cloth 
woven  from  the  fibres  of  some  Mexican  plant,  and  made  by 
Indians.  The  Holy  Virgin  wears  a  tunic  of  woollen  stuff,, 
descending  from  the  neck  to  the  feet,  and  her  head  is  covered 
by  a  manto  ;  in  a  word,  the  costume  of  a  noble  and  rich 
Azteke  lady.  Her  complexion  is  brown,  her  hair  black,  her 
expression  timiable,  humble  and  open.  This  image  is  called 
the  Creole  Virgin.  • 


Lei  Cervito.  147 

Obedient  to  the  order  of  the  J^Iother  of  God,  the  Bishop 
erected  first  a  hermitage  of  adobes — air-dried  unburnt  bricks — 
v>'here  the  miraculous  picture  was  transported  in  1853.  Juan 
Diego  built  for  himself  a  little  house  close  by,  and  died  there 
after  seventeen  }'ears,  at  the  age  of  seventy-four.  His  uncle, 
eighty-six  years  old,  died,  and  was  buried  in  the  chapel. 

This  chapel  was,  in  the  year  1663,  replaced  by  a  more 
worthy  building,  which  cost  800,000  piastres,  and  the  many 
worshippers  behaved  so  liberally,  that  the  sanctuary  could  soon 
be  ornamented  with  sacred  vessels  richer  than  even  those  in 
the  Cathedral.  Many,  however,  had  to  go  to  the  crucible 
during  the  war.  The  Cathedral,  standing  now  at  the  foot  of 
the  still  sterile  and  bare  hills,  is  a  very  extensive  building,  Avith 
six  towers.  Higher  up  the  hill,  at  the  place  where  the  Virgin 
appeared  for  the  first  time,  has  been  built  also  a  chapel  called 
Del  Cerrito,  and  around  the  sanctuary  has  sprung  up  a  place, 
which,  since  the  declaration  of  independence,  has  been  created 
a  town. 

The  people  of  the  highet  classes  worship  there  every  12th  of 
each  month,  but  on  the  12th  of  December  takes  place  the  great 
festival,  in  which  partake  the  Chief  of  the  Government  and  all 
the  authorities.  It  is  celebrated  with  a  splendour  which  is 
scarcely  surpassed  in  Rome.  The  Indians  have  still  another 
festival,  at  which  they  dance  old  Indian  dances,  and  much  dis- 
order takes  place. 

In  1 82 1,  the  Emperor  Iturbide  instituted  here  the  Mexican 
order  of  Guadalupe,  which  was  abolished  for  a  time,  but  re- 
established again  in  1853  by  Santa  Anna.  It  is  the  highest 
Mexican  order,  and  Salm  was  very  proud  when  he  received  it 
from  the  Emperor  IMaximilian,  in  Queretaro. 

There  are  connected  with  Guadalupe  several  historical  remi- 
niscences, but  I  cannot  exactly  remember  them,  and  will  only 
mention  that  here  the  peace  with  the  United  States  was  con 
eluded  on  Frebruary  2,  1848. 

Having  seen  from-  the  new  promenade  Chapultepec,  my 
curiosity  was  roused,  and  the  more  so  as  the  Emperer  Maxi- 
milian and  Empress  Carlotta  seemed  to  have  a  particular  liking 
for  that  place,  which  was  once  the  residence  of  the  Viceroys. 
The  blood-sucking  Viceroys  had  disappeared  from  there  but  it 
seems  that  they  left  behind  a  legion  of  not  less  blood-thirsty 
though  small  substitutes,  which  even  dared  attack  the  Imperial 


Ii8  Ten   Years  of  my  Life. 

blood  of  the  Hapsburgs  in  such  a  ferocious  manner  that  on  the 
first  night  which  the  Imperial  touple  passed  in  Chapultepec 
they  had  to  fly  before  them,  and  pitch  their  beds  on  the  open 
terrace. 

The  palace  is  a  long,  narrow,  ugly  building,  standing  on  a 
bare  hill,  which  is  enclosed  by  fortitications,  through  which  leads 
a  very  low  and  miserable  staircase.  The  Emperor  established 
himself,  however,  in  a  pavilion  standing  on  the  utmost  edge  of 
the  rock,  and  containing  only  a  itw  rooms,  but  whence  the 
view  is  enrapturing.  The  whole  valley  of  Mexico  is  before  us, 
and  every  house  in  the  city  is  to  be  seen  distinctly,  for  Cha- 
pultepec is  only  half  an  hour's  drive  from  it.  The  Cathedral  of 
Guadalupe,  leaning  against  the  ridge  of  Tepeyayac,  is  also 
before  us  in  all  its  splendour. 

The  bare  hill  on  which  the  vice-royal  palace  is  built  is  sur- 
rounded by  a  natural  park,  such  as  is  not  to  be  found  any- 
where in  this  wide  world.  What  are  the  Central  Park  in  New 
York,  Regent's  Park  in  London,  the  Bois  de  Boulogne  in 
Paris,  the  Bieberich  Park  on  the  Rhine,  the  Prater  in  Vienna 
— nay,  even  the  pride  of  Berlin,  the  Thiergarten — what  are 
they  all  in  comparison  to  this  venerable  and  delightful  spot, 
with  its  Ahuehuetes  trees,  which  were  there  already  in  the 
golden  age  of  Mexico,  when  still  the  benevolent  Quatzalcoatl, 
the  god  of  the  air,  lived  amongst  the  gentle  people  of  the 
Toltekes?  Under  the  shade  of  these  green  vaults,  even  the 
bloody  conqueror  Cortez's  heart  felt  softened  at  the  side  of 
his  enchantress,  Malitzin.  There  are  still  the  basins  where 
bathed  the  many  pretty  Indian  wives  of  Montezuma.  On 
entering  this  natural  temple,  a  delicious  shudder  creeps  over 
your  whole  body,  and  you  dare  scarcely  speak  aloud. 

From  the  emerald  green  ground  rise  the  gigantic  Ahuehuetes 
trees,  a  kind  of  cypress,  of  which  the  enormous  branches 
stretch  widely  out,  and  hang  down  like  those  of  European  firs. 
They  stand  on  a  pedestal  formed  by  the  curiously  twisted  and 
interlaced  roots,  from  which  spring  forth  their  cord-like  stems, 
wound  around  each  other  as  in  a  cable,  but  more  irregular, 
and  forming  thus  the  strange-looking  trunks  which  have  a  cir- 
cumference of  at  least  twelve  or  fifteen  yards.  As  if  the  green 
of  their  foliage  was  not  thought  becoming  to  their  venerable 
age,  the  trees  are  covered  up  to  their  tops  with  a  silk-like 
silvery-grey  parasite  plant,  hanging  down  in  rich,  slightly 
curling  locks. 


Humraivg-Birds.  149' 

The  monotony  of  this  uniform  green  and  grey  colour  is 
relieved  now  and  then  by  trees  of  a  lighter  green  with  yellow 
drooping  flowers  and  grape-like  pink  fruits,  and  beautillil 
coloured  butterflies  and  birds,  amongst  them  the  gem  of  the 
winged  tribe,  the  sweet  humming-bird. 

It  occurs  also  in  North  America,  and  even  as  far  north  as 
New  York.  I  never  had,  however,  a  better  opportunity  of 
observing  and  admiring  this  graceful  little  creature  than  in 
Washington.  There  stands  in  the  Capitol  garden,  close  to  one 
of  the  principal  walks,  a  red-blooming,  peculiar  kind  of  chest- 
nut tree,  v»^hich  has  quite  a  reputation  amongst  ornithologists, 
and  I  heard  that  a  celebrated  English  naturalist  declared  this 
tree  alone  to  be  worth  a  voyage  to  America. 

The  juice  of  the  red  chestnut  flower  must  have  a  peculiar 
sweetness  and  attraction,  for  when  the  tree  is  in  blossom 
humming-birds  are  swarming  around  it  like  bees.  Sitting  on 
a  bench  opposite  that  tree  1  have  observed  them  for  hours. 
When  drinking  the  nectar  from  a  flower  with  their  long  tongue, 
they  behave  just  in  the  same  manner  as  those  butterflies  or 
moths  do  which  are  to  be  seen  in  summer  evenings  before 
some  flower  as  if  fixed  in  the  air.  The  movement  of  the  little 
wings  is  so  quick  that  they  cannot  be  seen,  and  one  wonders 
how  that  little  sparkling  body  is  thus  suspended  in  the  air. 
Having  robbed  the  flower  of  its  sweetness,  they  whisk  away 
like  lightning  to  kiss  another.  I  like  them  best  when  they  are 
resting  on  a  branch  smoothing  their  little  feathers.  They  are 
so  tame  and  so  little  afraid  of  man  tliat  it  would  be  very  easy 
to  catch  them  with  a  butterfly-net,  which  I  fortunately  never 
saw  in  all  America,  for  young  gentlemen  there  of  ten  or  twelve 
years  have  more  serious  occupations  than  catching  butterflies  1 
They  commence  already  to  flirt  and  learn  to  chew  tobacco. 
The  negro  boys  sometimes  entrap  the  poor  humming-birds 
when  they  venture  into  the  deep  calix  of  some  large  flower,  by 
stealing  near  and  closing  the  entrance  with  their  hands.  I 
shall  not  describe  now  all  the  fine  pjlaces  near  Mexico,  but  do 
so  occasionally. 

The  interior  of  Mexican  houses  is  more  agreeable  and 
pleasing  than  the  exterior.  A  staircase  leads  to  an  open 
gallery  surrounding  the  yard.  It  is  ornamented  with  flowers, 
and  the  floor  is  covered  with  mats  and  provided  with  benches. 
From  this  gallery  the  rooms  are  entered.     The  parlours  in  the 


150  Ten   Years  of  "iny  Life. 

houses  of  the  richer  classes  are  often  brilliantly  furnished, 
though  not  always  in  good  taste.  The  Mexicans  are  very 
fond  of  gilding,  and  they  have  frequently  gilded  tables  and 
other  furniture.  In  the  bedrooms  the  bed  is  the  only  thing 
recommendable,  for  it  is  very  large  and  mostly  made  of  iron, 
which  is  necessary  on  account  of  insects  ;  all  the  other  accom- 
modations are  very  primitive,  and  the  luxury  of  cleanliness  is 
not  much  appreciated.  Sheets  are  almost  always  made  of 
cotton,  and  so  are  tablecloths  and  napkins,  and  their  miserable 
state  very  frequently  forms  a  strange  contrast  with  the  rich 
furniture  and  plate. 

Though  the  Mexicans  are  a  lazy  people,  they  rise  early. 
The  gentlemen  have  their  morning  ride  and  the  ladies  go  to 
church,  and  from  there  to  the  Alameda.  This  is  the  only  oc- 
casion on  which  they  appear  in  the  street  on  foot.  Returned 
home,  they  take  a  bath  and  make  their  toilet.  They  lunch 
between  twelve  and  one. 

The  Mexicans  are  very  frugal,  and  that  is  one  good  quality 
at  least  to  praise,  even  in  the  gentlemen.  They  do  not  drink 
much,  either  spirits  or  wine  or  beer,  though  pulque  appears 
everywhere  on  the  table.  They  live  mostly  very  regularly  and 
decently,  but  gambling  is  the  besetting  sin  of  many  of  them. 

The  men  are  generally  rather  little  and  delicate-looking,  but 
very  well  formed,  with  extremely  small  hands  and  feet.  They 
are  very  polite  and  reserved  and  courteous,  as  if  always  on 
their  guard  against  being  imposed  upon.  They  have  good 
reason  for  it ;  for  Mexicans  are  not  reliable.  They  promise 
readily,  and  are  always  at  your  service  with  words,  but  are  not 
to  be  trusted.  Fifty  years  of  civil  war  would  demoralise  better 
nations  than  the  descendants  of  Cortez's  rapacious  crew. 
They  love  money,  and  have  no  scruples  whatever  in  reference 
to  the  means  of  getting  it,  and  to  rob  the  Republic  as  much  as 
possible  is  cpnsidered  more  a  merit  than  a  sin.  Whoever  gets 
a  high  position  uses  it  for  this  purpose.  Though  avaricious 
and  grasping  in  this  sense,  they  are  sometimes  liberal  and  reck- 
less of  expense,  as  is  usual  with  gamblers.  In  general  they 
are  very  hospitable,  and  at  their  dinner-table  are  always  laid 
covers  for  guests  who  may  drop  in.  Frugal  as  they  usually  are, 
the  tables  are  loaded  with  everything  when  they  give  parties. 

The  ladies  are  very  pretty,  and  generally  excel  in  the  rich- 
ness  of  tlieir   black  hair,  there  large  black  and  melancholy 


Family  Life  in  Mexico.  151 

eyes,  and  small  feet  and  hands.  They  are  very  graceful  in 
their  movements,  but  mostly  very  delicate.  They  marry  very 
early,  sometimes  at  fourteen  or  fifteen  years,  and  have  gener- 
ally many  children.  It  is  no  rare  case  to  see  a  mother  with  a 
dozen  or  more.  The  children  are  very  delicate,  and  a  great 
many  die  young.  They  are  very  quiet  and  well-behaved  ;  and 
I  never  saw  them  romping  or  quarrelhng  as  healthy  children 
do  in  other  countries.  The  mothers  mostly  nurse  them  them- 
selves, and  are  very  fond  of  them,  but  bring  them  up  in  a  very 
injudicious  manner.  They  treat  them  like  dolls,  and  to  dress 
them  nicely  seems  their  principal  care.  The  children  are  very 
intelhgent,  and  progress  very  fast,  but  only  up  to  their  tenth 
or  twelfth  year.  After  that  they  do  not  advance  in  their 
intellectual  developement. 

The  family  life  in  Mexico  is  rather  pleasing.  Husband  and 
wife  are  always  seen  together,  and  they  live  mostly  at  home 
and  within  the  circle  of  their  relations.  Parents  do  not  like 
to  part  with  their  daughters,  and  if  they  marry,  it  is  by  no 
means  rare  for  their  husbands  to  estabUsh  themselves  in  the 
houses  of  their  fathers  or  mothers-in-law,  living  at  their  expense. 

The  ladies  are  extremely  ignorant.  They  do  not  read  any- 
thing else  but  their  prayer-book,  and  are  scarcely  able  to  write 
their  necessary  letters.  They  do  not  know  any  language  but 
Spanish,  and  of  geography  or  history  they  have  no  idea. 
That  Paris  was  the  capital  of  France  they  knew  even  before 
the  arrival  of  the  French,  and  about  London  they  had  heard 
also,  for  from  these  cities  they  received  their  dresses  and  furni- 
ture and  other  luxuries.  Of  Rome  they  would  not  know  any- 
thing if  the  Pope  did  not  reside  there,  and  that  fact  is  the  only 
thing  they  know.  They  are,  however,  fond  of  music  and 
singing,  and  have  talent  for  it,  and  also  good  voices.  There 
are  many  who  play  the  piano  very  well. 

There  is  no  regular  dinner  in  their  houses.  If  hungry,  they 
eat  a  simple  dish  or  take  a  cup  of  chocolate,  which  is  very 
good,  but  much  mixed  with  cinnamon.  Coffee  is  grown  in 
Mexico,  and  it  is  excellent,  but  they  do  not  understand  how 
to  prepare  it. 

At  six  o'clock  the  ladies  drive  to  the  promenade,  and  after 
it  to  the  opera,  where  they  take  their  young  daughters  dressed 
up  to  their  best.  If  there  is  no  opera,  they  pass  the  evening 
at  home,  and  amuse  themselves  with  playing  at  cards,  or  with 


152  Ten   Years  of  my  Life. 

music  and  singing.     The  young  folks  come  also  together  for  a 
hop,  or  a  tertulla,  as  such  a  ciaTicing  party  is  called  in  JMexico. 

Though  there  are  about  half  a  million  of  negroes  amongst 
the  eight  millions  of  inhabitants  in  Mexico,  there  are  scarcely 
any  in  the  city  of  Mexico.  The  house  servants  are  Indians, 
mostly  young  girls,  who  are  very  kindly  and  familiarly  treated. 
They  are  very  clever  with  their  hands,  and  there  are  many 
amongst  them  who  embroider  extremely  well. 

More  than  half  the  population  of  the  country  are  Indians. 
Those  living  in  the  plateau  of  Mexico  and  neighbourhood  are 
the  descendants  of  the  Aztekes,  who  three  hundred  years  ago 
astonished  the  Spaniards  by  their  civilisation,  which  many  say 
was  more  advanced  than  even  that  of  the  ancient  Egyptians, 
The  conquerors,  who  expected  to  encounter  savages,  saw  in 
their  sumptuous  city  splendid  buildings,  ornamented  with  ob- 
jects of  art,  and  a  highly  developed  industry.  Though  not 
acquainted  with  iron  or  steel,  they  understood  how  to  cut  the 
hardest  stones,  and  to  work  in  gold  and  silver,  in  a  manner 
which  is  still  admired.  Their  clothes  were  fine,  and  in  many 
sciences  they  were  at  least  as  far  advanced  as  most  of  the  rude 
Spaniards  who  came  to  betray  their  hospitality. 

What  has  become  of  this  intelligent,  industrious  people? 
The  manner  in  which  the  English  treated  the  North  American 
Indians,  bad  and  unjust  as  it  was,  may  find  at  least  some  ex- 
cuse in  the  stubbornness  of  these  savages,  with  which  they 
refused  all  attempts  to  civilise  them  ;  but  the  Aztekes  were  no 
savages,  and  if  their  priests  were  cruel,  they  were  really  not 
more  so  than  the  fanatical  Christian  priests,  who,  instead  of 
teaching  them  the  religion  of  love,  punished  them  for  the  mis- 
fortune of  their  religious  errors  by  burning  them  wholesale, 
and  treating  them  worse  than  wild  animals. 

Tyranny  and  slavery  have  everywhere  the  same  debasing 
effect,  of  which  history  furnishes  so  many  instances  that  it 
would  be  superfluous  to  mention  any,  whilst  liberty  is  every- 
where the  mother  of  industry  and  progress. 

Persecuted  and  oppressed  as  the  Indians  were,  they  fled  to 
the  woods,  where  they  were  not  molested  by  the  conquering 
race,  but  were  deprived  of  all  means  of  education.  Their 
children  grew  up  in  ignorance,  and  even  their  mechanical  skill 
vanished  almost  entirely  in  the  course  of  time.  They  were 
satisfied  to  live^  and   as  bountiful  Nature  let   them   find  easily 


Indian  Traders.  153 

the  means  of  existence,  they  sank  lower  and  lower.  No  won- 
der that  they  are  shy  and  suspicious,  especially  towards  the 
masters  of  their  country ;  for  whenever  they  are  treated  with 
kindness  they  show  that  they  have  very  kind  hearts,  are  faith- 
ful and  loving,  and  are  desirous  of  learning. 

This  desire  is  very  rarely  satisfied,  for  the  Europeans,  igno- 
rant themselves,  were  satisfied  with  using  them  as  working 
animals.  They  never  looked  upon  them  as  entitled  to  any 
rights,  and  still  less  as  brethren,  as  their  religion  urged  them 
to  do.  Not  even  the  priests  who  lived  amongst  them  took 
the  trouble  to  educate  them  and  to  enlighten  their  minds  ; 
they  were  satisfied  with  teaching  them  the  mechanical  part  ot 
their  religion,  to  make  them  Christians  by  name. 

When  the  conquerors  spread  all  over  the  country,  the  In- 
dians could  not  keep  themselves  altogether  apart  from  them, 
especially  in  the  neighbourhood  of  cities.  By  this  contact  a 
new  kind  of  civilisation  was  created  amongst  them.  Becom- 
ing soon  aware  of  the  value  of  money,  and  seeing  that  they 
could  get  some  by  selling  their  services  or  the  products  of  their 
soil  to  their  lazy  masters,  they  availed  themselves  of  this  oppor- 
tunity, and  we  see  them  in  Mexico  everywhere  engaged  in  all 
kinds  of  inferior  trades.  They  are  indeed  the  purveyors  of 
Mexico,  and  come  there  from  many  miles  to  sell  their  fruit 
or  fowls,  or  other  products  of  their  little  industry. 

The  women  work  more  than  the  men,  and  with  their  chil- 
dren on  their  back,  together  with  a  heavy  load,  always  running 
at  a  short  trot,  they  may  be  seen  on  all  roads.  Their  dress  is 
very  simple.  A  piece  of  blue  cotton  stuff  is  rolled  around 
their  waist,  falling  down  to  their  feet.  Their  shoulders  and 
breast  are  covered  by  a  cotton  cloth  of  some  other  colour, 
with  a  hole  in  the  centre  through  which  passes  their  head.  In 
the  Tyrol  I  have  seen  pieces  of  carpet  used  in  a  similar  manner. 

The  dress  of  the  men  is  still  more  imperfect.  Round  the 
waist  they  have  fastened  a  leather,  which  they  tie  in  such  a 
manner  as  to  form  a  kind  of  breeches.  Their  shoulders  are 
covered  in  the  same  manner  as  those  of  the  women,  and  on 
their  head  they  wear  a  straw  hat. 

The  women  have  large  fine  eyes,  somewhat  obliquely  placed, 
and  are  very  well  made  ;  many  amongst  them  are  pretty,  but 
amongst  some  of  the  tribes  they  are  rather  ugly.  The  men  do 
not  look  so  strong  as  they  are,  to  judge  from  the  loads  which 


154}  Ten   Years  of  my  Life. 

they  can  carry  vvith  apparent  ease.  The  skin  of  the  Indians 
is  brown,  but  not  more  so  ^han  that  of  gipsies  ;  their  hair  is 
black,  their  teeth  very  fine,  and  the  beard  is  with  the  men  not 
much  developed. 

Not  a  few  amongst  the  followers  of  Cortez  married  rich 
Azteke  girls,  and  from  such  unions,  which  became  more  and 
more  frequent  in  time,  sprung  up  a  bastard  race — Creoles. 
Many  of  them  are  rancheros  or  farmers,  and  these  are  con- 
sidered as  the  best  part  of  the  nation.  Amongst  them  are 
very  rich  people,  and  as  they  have  not  much  opportunity  of 
getting  rid  of  their  money — gambling  excepted — they  love  to 
wear  very  rich  dresses.  I  have  described  the  riding  costume 
of  a  Mexican  gentleman.  That  of  the  rich  ranchero  is  similar, 
but  differs  in  some  trifles.  He  wears  white  drawers  reaching 
to  the  knee,  and  these  are  fastened  by  fine  garters  to  the 
leathern  zepateros,  embroidered  in  different  colours.  Under 
the  garters  hangs  by  a  steel  chain  a  sharp  knife,  to  cut  the  lasso 
if  required.  Over  his  drawers  he  wears  trousers,  open  at  one 
side  from  the  knee  down,  and  set  with  large  fine  buttons, 
mostly  of  solid  silver,  but  not  rarely  of  gold,  each  consisting 
of  the  largest  gold  coin  of  the  country.  Such  a  pair  of  '  cal- 
zoneras  ^  are  worth  a  whole  fortune.  His  jacket  is  made  of 
coffee-coloured  leather,  and  set  with  silver  cords  on  the  shoulders 
and  its  back  part.  His  large  hat — '  jarano  ' — with  wide  gold- 
laced  rims,  is  ornamented  with  silver  and  gold,  and  from  his 
belt  of  crimson  silk  hang  down  behind  golden  tassels.  Of 
course,  saddle  and  bridle  are  richly  studded  with  silver  and 
gold.  The  hind-part  of  the  horse  is  covered  by  a  brilliant 
anguera  ;  the  lasso  is  behind  the  saddle,  and  a  sword  is  fastened 
to  the  latter.  Round  his  neck  the  ranchero  generally  wears  a 
crimson  silk  neckerchief  He  looks  extremely  picturesque, 
and  would  make  a  prominent  figure  in  any  circus. 

The  amusements  and  sports  of  these  people  are  rather  rude. 
Their  greatest  pleasure  is  to  show  their  skill  and  strength 
against  the  bull.  One  of  their  amusements  seems  to  be  very 
difficult  to  the  performer  and  rather  disagreeable  to  the  bull. 
The  poor  fellow  is  frightened  in  some  manner  or  another,  and 
when  running  away  he  is  followed  by  a  crowd  of  rancheros  on 
horseback.  Whoever  approaches  him  first  catches  hold  of  his 
tail  with  his  right  hand,  draws  up  his  right  knee  to  use  it  as  a 
sup})ort  for  the  elbow,  and  with  a  skilful  strong  twist  the  bull 
is  knocked  off  his  legs,  after  which  the  rider  runs  on. 


Mexican  Marlcets.  155 

Even  more  difficult  and  far  more  dangerous  is  what  they 
call  '  barbearal  becerro.'  The  bold  ranchero  approaches  the 
bull  on  foot,  and  not  from  behind,  but  in  front ;  seizes  with 
one  hand  one  of  its  ears,  with  the  other  its  snout,  and  then 
twisting  its  neck  with  a  sudden  jerk  brings  the  bull  to  the 
ground. 

The  class  of  people  in  Mexico  between  the  rich  classes  and 
the  Indians  do  not  dress  in  the  French  style,  nor  in  the  simple 
style  of  the  Indians.  The  lowest  class  of  them,  the  '  leperos,' 
dress  as  they  can  afford  it,  the  climate  of  the  country  permit- 
ting them  to  wear  very  litde ;  a  pair  of  coarse  tiousers,  a 
similar  shirt,  and  a  sombrero  of  palm-leaves  are  sufficient. 
The  women  of  what  I  may  call  the  lower  middle  class  invari- 
ably wear  a  more  or  less  elegant  petticoat,  covering  them  from 
the  waist  to  their  feet.  For  their  bust  a  loose  shirt  is  thought 
sufficient,  and  generally  a  neckerchief  is  added  to  it.  The 
characteristic  part  of  their  dress  is,  however,  the  rebozo,  which 
serves  them  for  all  passible  purposes,  and  with  this  they  under- 
stand how  to  dress  themselves  in  a  rather  becoming  and  often 
coquettish  manner.  The  rebozo  is  a  kind  of  shawl  either  of 
cotton  or  silk,  plain  or  interwoven  with  gold  or  silver  thread, 
two  and  a  half  or  three  metres  long  and  one  wide,  with  an 
open  fringe  at  both  ends. 

Though  it  is  very  unusual  for  ladies  to  walk  in  the  street, 
except  on  going  to  church  and  coming  from  the  Alameda,  I 
sometimes  took  the  liberty  of  looking  about,  and  found  always 
new  and  interesting  things  to  see,  especially  on  the  markets, 
where  so  many  articles  were  sold  which  I  had  never  seen  be- 
fore. I  was  especially  attracted  by  the  great  quantity  of  very 
fine  flowers  coming  from  the  floating  gardens,  where  they  bloom 
even  in  winter.  Stawberries  are  to  be  had  all  the  year  round, 
and  a  great  variety  of  fruit,  in  their  season,  are  heaped  up  in 
large  pyramids.  Covent  Garden  market  in  London  looks  in 
this  respect  poor  in  comparison  with  the  most  common  Mexi- 
can market. 

The  fruit  to  be  seen  everywhere  is  the  banana,  which  is 
called  in  Mexico  platano.  It  is  a  smooth  yellow  pod,  sometimes 
with  dark  spots,  of  about  five  inches  long  and  thick  in  propor- 
tion, which  contains  a  soft,  gold-coloured,  somewhat  mealy  bat 
extremely  aromatic  flesh.  These  pods  grow  together  in  clus- 
ters  of  not  rarely  more  than  a  hundred.     The  bananas  grow 


156  Ten  Years  of  my  Life. 

witliout  any  culture  and  are  extremely  cheap.  They  are 
brought  frequently  to  |;he  tJrkiced  States,  and  I  have  seen  them 
even  in  London,  but  there  the  truit  is  not  so  good  as  in  Mex- 
ico, I  suppose  because  they  are  gathered  before  they  are  per- 
fectly ripe.  It  is  the  same  with  piae-apples,  which  are  far 
superior  to  those  which  are  sold  in  the  United  States  or  in  the 
streets  of  London.  The  fruits  of  the  cactus  plants,  called 
tunas,  are  of  course  plentiful.  The  zapote,  mimey,  granadil- 
las,  papayas,  aguacates,  the  fruit  of  the  melon-tree,  the  guay- 
aves,  the  excellent  anona,  the  bitates,  tomatoes,  ground  pista- 
chios, &c.,  &c.,  it  would  take  too  long  to  describe.  People 
who  travel  only  to  write  books  about  what  they  see  may  do 
that ;  I  am  writing  my  personal  adventures,  and  think  it  is  time 
to  return  to  them. 


157 


CHAPTER  X. 

Marshal  Bazaine — l\Iadame  la  Mar^chale — Princess  Iturbide — Tacubaya^ 
San  Augustin — A  projected  important  mission — How  it  ended — We 
go  on  an  expedition — Meeting  the  enemy — Result — Arrival  in  Tulan- 
cingo — Order  to  evacuate — ^Jimmy — Carabajal,  the  robber-general  — 
March  to  Puebla — Meeting  the  Emperor  Maximilian — The  '  woman 
in  white  ' — I  fall  ill — General  panic — Returning  to  Mexico — The 
family  Hube — Departure  of  the  French — The  Emperor  leaving  for 
Queretaro — Salm  going  after  him — I  am  left  behind — General  Mar- 
quez — General  Vidaurri — Good  news — The  bactle  of  San  Lorenzo — 
Marquez  a  coward — Portirio  Diaz  before  Mexico. 

The  fate  of  Marshal  Bazaine  would  not  fail  to  call  for  our 
sympathy  if  he  had  done  only  what  a  rather  prejudiced  court 
found  him  guilty  of,  but  he  has  forfeited  all  claims  to  sympathy 
by  the  manner  in  which  he  behaved  when  in  Mexico.  Though 
our  religion  teaches  us  that  all  bad  actions  are  recorded  and 
will  fmd  their  punishment  after  death,  it  is  always  satisfactory 
if  fate  overtakes  bad  men  in  this  life,  and  I  regret  that  my  poor 
husband  did  not  live  to  see  how  Mexico  and  its  noble  Empe- 
ror were  revenged  on  this  bad,  cruel,  brutal,  and  mean  man, 
and  his  crafty  master. 

History  informs  us  that  in  every  country  where  the  French 
entered  as  conquerors  they  made  themselves  hated  by  their 
overbearing  rapacity  and  cruelty,  but  scarcely  anywhere  did 
they  dishonour  their  country  in  a  more  barefaced  manner  than 
they  did  in  Mexico,  for  they  had  rarely  a  chief  who  encouraged 
them  so  openly  by  his  own  example  as  was  done  by  Bazaine. 

The  French  officers  treated  the  Mexicans  wdth  the  utmost 
arrogance  and  contempt.  Gentlemen  who  met  them  in  the 
street  were  insulted  and  kicked  off  the  side-walks  without  hav- 
ing given  any  oftence.     Ladies  dared  not  venture  going  in  the 


1'38  Ten   Years  of  my  Life. 

street  for  fear  of  being  annoyed  by  their  low  importunities. 
Their  cupidity  was  insatiable^  and  their  behaviour  in  the  coun- 
try when  on  some  mihtary  expedition  surpasses  anything  which 
we  read  in  old  books.  Wholesale  slaughter  and  execution  of 
innocent  people,  burning  of  houses  and  robberies,  were  not 
even  the  most  atrocious  of  their  crimes  ;  they  committed  ac- 
tions of  such  cruelty  and  shamelessness  against  poor  women, 
before  the  very  eyes  of  their  parents,  that  the  pen  refuses  to 
describe  them.  Their  name  v»'ill  be  hated  forever  in  Mexico, 
and  their  humiliation  and  punishment  by  the  brave  Germans 
will  without  doubt  have  been  heard  with  rejoicing  in  that 
country. 

Bazaine  behaved  there  as  if  he  was  the  Emperor  and  Maxi- 
milian his  subordinate.  Everybody  trembled  before  him,  and 
even  the  French,  though  they  feared  him,  did  not  love  and 
respect,  but  rather  despised  him.  So  at  least  did  all  honour- 
able men  amongst  them. 

He  was  not  only  arrogant,  brutal,  and  cruel,  he  was  also 
rapacious  and  mean,  and  employed  the  lowest  artifices  to  en- 
rich himself.  It  was  well  known  in  Mexico,  not  only  amongst 
the  inhabitants  but  also  by  the  French  ofhcers,  that  he  owned 
in  the  city  two  shops,  a  grocery  and  another,  in  which  French 
goods,  as  dresses,  lace,  silks,  &c.,  were  sold.  He  became  ex- 
tremely rich  by  this  trade,  for  he  found  very  cheap  means  of 
transportation,  and  did  not  pay  any  duty.  His  goods  were  , 
conveyed  as  arms,  ammunition,  and  the  like,  at  the  expense  of 
the  Government. 

To  screen  his  fast-growing  fortune  it  was  said  that  he  inar- 
ried  an  enormously  rich  Mexican  lady.  This  is  utterly  false, 
for  the  girl  he  married  was  poor. 

Salm,  when  coming  to  Mexico,  had  a  letter  to  Bazaine  from 
the  French  Ambassador  in  Washington,  and  was  received  tol- 
erably well.  Not  knowing  him  sufficiently,  and  not  daring  to 
neglect  him,  I  of  course  had  to  pay  a  visit  to  Madame  la 

Marechale. 

She  was  a  charming,  rather  childlike,  and  naive  little  person, 
who  made  on  me  a  quite  agreeable  impression. 

An  officer  who  had  great  influence  with  Bazaine  was  Colonel 
Vicomte  de  la  None.  We  paid  him  a  visit  and  became  ac- 
quainted with  his  wife,  who  was  a  North  American.  She  was 
extremely  fond  of  admiration,  like  all  American  ladies,  and. 


Princess  Iturhide.  159 

as  most  of  them  do  in  foreign  countries,  she  also  loved  to  show 
off  her  American  peculiarities  and  exaggerate  them,  even  as 
we  may  observe  with  American  ladies  in  Dresden,  Vienna, 
Italy,  and  especially  in  German  watering-places,  where  they 
behave  in  a  manner  which  they  would  not  dare  in  their  own 
country.  The  parties  in  the  Vicomte's  house  had  a  certain 
reputation  on  account  of  their  gaiety. 

Under  such  extraordinary  circumstances  as  prevailed  in 
Mexico  at  that  time,  there  often  appear  in  society  all .  sorts  of 
dubious  characters  ;  and  having  no  time  to  examine  and  select, 
one  is  brought  in  contact  with  rather  queer  people.  There 
were  in  Mexico  a  great  number  of  adventurers,  especially 
French,  who,  bearing  a  well-sounding  name,  wore  to  be  met  in 
all  societies.  One  of  this  sort  was  a  French  Count,  who  had 
a  very  handsome  wife,  whom  he  had  married  to  the  horror  of 
his  father,  who  disinherited  him  for  his  disobedience.  I  sup- 
pose he  came  to  Mexico  to  take  part  in  the  spoils,  but  it  seems 
that  he  did  not  succeed  well,  for  his  pretty  wife  ran  about 
everywhere  trying  to  borrow  three  hundred  dollars  ;  but  even 
this,  for  Mexico,  small  sum  she  could  not  get,  notwithstanding 
her  prettiness.  There  are  too  many  handsome  ladies  in  Mex- 
ico. I  suppose  she  might  have  succeeded  better  had  she  been 
ugly,  but  as  she  was,  all  her  Parisian  vivacity  and  coquetry, 
which  formed  a  great  contrast  with  the  quiet  manner  of  Mex- 
ican beauties,  left  the  native  gentlemen  very  cold,  to  her  great 
astonishment  and  regret. 

Amongst  the  officers  who  commanded  the  Austrian  and 
Belgian  troops  which  were  engaged  in  the  cause  of  the 
Emperor  MaximiHan,  were  many  noblemen  of  high  families, 
and  very  worthy  and  amiable  men.  The  position  which  Salm 
occupied  made  it  natural  that  we  associated  much  with  them, 
though  they  seemed  at  first  somewhat  jealous  of  my  husband. 

There  lived  also  in  Mexico  a  daughter  of  the  unfortunate 
Emperor  Iturbide,  who  was  called  Princess  Iturbide  and 
Imperial  Highness,  and  1  paid  her  a  visit.  As  I  only  saw 
her  now  and  then  in  society,  and  she  had  nothing  to  do  with 
the  events  happening  later,  I  need  not  say  more  of  her.  For 
the  benefit  of  Prussian  readers,  I  may,  however,  mention  that 
Princess  Iturbide  was  strikingly  like,  both  in  exterior  and 
manners,  to  Countess  Haake,  the  '  Pall^st  Dame '  of  her 
Majesty  the  Empress  of  Germany.  ,  .     • 


160  Ten   Years  of  ')ny  Life.  . 

The  most  considerable  place  near  Mexico  is  the  town  of 
Tacuba)  a.  It  is  extremely  cjd,  and  existed  before  the  Chichi- 
mecas  came  to  the  plateau  of  Anahuac,  under  the  Indian  name 
of  Atlacoloayan,  which  means,  '  place  where  the  brook  makes 
a  turning.'  It  had  once  15,000  inhabitants,  now  is  has  5,000, 
and  in  summer  about  1,500  more.  The  huts  of  the  Indians, 
with  their  aloe-fields,  have  mostly  disappeared,  and  rich  Mexi- 
cans and  foreigners  have  built  in  this,  the  finest  spot  of  the 
lovely  Mexican  valley,  beautiful  villas  with  splendid  gardens. 
It  is  to  Mexico  what  Charlottenburg  is  to  Berlin,  and  will  soon 
become  one  of  its  suburbs. 

In  this  place  a  Mr.  Hube,  the  former  Consul-General  of 
Hamburg,  had  a  villa,  and  we  were  introduced  by  Baron  Mag- 
nus to  him,  his  most  excellent  and  kind  wife,  and  her  amiable 
family.  As  I  became  more  intimate  with  them  later,  and  lived 
with  them  when  Salm  was  in  the  war,  I  shall  speak  of  the 
Hube  familv  more  at  lenofth  afterwards. 

Another  considerable,  very  charming  place,  near  Mexico,  is 
San  Augustin  de  los  Cunvas.  Before  the  Conquest  it  was 
called  Tlalpam,  and  is  connected  with  the  capital  l3y  splendid 
roads  and  canals.  It  is  most  picturesquely  situated  on  the 
slope  of  the  high  mountain  of  Ajusco.  Though  it  has  still 
(our  thousand  inhabitants  it  is  not  a  town,  and  no  kind  of 
suburb  like  Tacubaya,  but  has  remained  a  genuine  village. 
There  are  to  be  found  yet  Indian  homesteads  as  they  were 
before  the  Conquest,  though  new  streets  have  sprung  up  also, 
formed  of  fine  villas.  In  this  charming  place  the  green  seem.-s 
iresher  and  greener  than  anywhere  else.  Many  trees  growing 
everywhere,  and  rocks  appearing  between  the  houses,  make 
the  interior  of  the  place  picturesque,  and  the  neighbourhood 
abounds  in  beautiiul  spots. 

Every  year,  at  Whitsuntide,  San  Augustin  is  crowded  during 
three  or  four  days  with  Mexicans,  for  there  is  held  then  a  most 
celebrated  fair.  This  fair  is  not  renowned  on  account  ot  its 
mercantile  importance,  but  tor  the  gambling  carried  on  there. 
All  Mexicans  seem  to  be  crazy  about  that  time,  and  every- 
body is  seized  with  the  gambling  fever.  Gambling  houses  are 
opened  invitingly,  and  many  leave  there  considerable  sums, 
lost  at  '  Monte,'  the  favorite  card  game  of  the  Mexicans.  ■ 

During  the  rainy  season  many  people  go  there  for  a  change 
of  air — what  is  called  '  mudar  temperamente.'     At  other  times 


San  August  in.  IGl 

San  Augustin  is  a  quiet  country  place,  and  a  visit  there  is 
a  highly  refreshing  and  agreeable  change  from  the  noise  of  the 
city. 

At  the  end  of  September  we  arranged  a  great  party  to  San 
Augustin,  consisting  of  seven  ladies  and  about  ten  or  twelve 
gentlemen.  We  were  all  on  horseback,  and  two  donkeys, 
loaded  with  all  kinds  of  provision,  followed  us.  The  distance 
from  Mexico  is  about  three  and  a  half  leagues.  We  established 
ourselves  at  a  most  beautiful  spot,  where  we  breakfasted  with 
good  appetites,  and  having  procured  some  Indian  musicians, 
we  had  a  dance  on  the  green  sward. 

One  day  Baron  Magnus  called  on  me  requesting  a  con- 
fidential conversation.  His  manner  was  excited  and  mysterious, 
and  the  proposition  he  made  to  me  was  indeed  rather  exciting 
and  of  great  importance.  He  came  from  an  audience  with 
the  Emperor  Maximilian,  whose  position  threatened  to  become 
alarming,  for  the  French  were  on  the  point  of  leaving  the 
country. 

Though  the  American  Government  had  at  that  time  done 
nothing  hostile  to  MaximiUan,  they  had  not  recognized  him, 
and  it  was  well-known  that  they  were  opposed  to  the  estabHsh- 
ment  of  a  monarchy  so  near  their  frontier.     There  was,  how- 
ever, a  party  in  the  United  States  who  did  not  look  quite  un- 
favourably on  such  a  plan,  for  they  thought  it  better  for  the 
interest   of  their   countiy   that   order   should  be  restored  in 
Mexico,  as  its  troubled  state   interfered    not    only    with    the 
security  of  the  many  American  citizens  living  there,  but  also 
with   the   general    mercantile   transactions    between    the    two 
countries.     President  Johnson  himself  was  rather  favourably 
inclined  in  reference  to  the  civilizing  mission  of  the   young 
Emperor,  and  it  seemed  therefore  not  irnpossible  to  turn  the 
scale  in  Congress  in  favour  of  the  cause  ot  Maximilian,  and  to 
win  a  majority  for  his  recognition  by  the  United  States.     This 
would  have  been  of  the  highest  importance,  and  increased  the 
chance  of  Maximilian's  success  more  than  the  ambiguous  and 
humiliating  patronage  of  the  French  Emperor.     If  only   the 
United  States  remained  neutral   it   would   have    been   much 
gained,  for  if  they  declared  themselves  positively  against  the 
Emperor  his  downfall  would  have  been  only  a  question  of  time. 
As  I  was  well  acquainted  not  only  with  President  Johnson 
and  most  of  the  influential  persons  in  the  United  States,  but 

J 


1C2  Ten   Years  of  my  Life. 

also  with  the  best  ways  and  means  in  which  to  work  upon 
them,  Baron  Magnus  had  suggested  to  the  Emperor  the  idea 
of  sending  me  to  Washington  on  a  secret  diplomatic  mission, 
accompanied  by  a  most  powerfully  ally — two  millions  of  dollars 
in  gold. 

The  proposition  pleased  me  very  much,  tor  success  seemed 
by  no  means  improbable,  and  the  importance  of  the  mission 
and  the  confidence  placed  in  me  flattered  m.y  ambition.  I 
therefore  placed  myself  at  the  disposition  of  the  Emperor,  but 
Salm  opposed  my  going  alone  to  the  United  States,  and 
insisted  on  going  with  me.  He  had  very  little  diplomatic 
talent,  and  did  not  understand  how  to  deal  with  Americans  as 
I  did.  I  knew  that  he  would  rather  render  my  task  more 
difficult,  but  as  he  obstinately  insisted  I  could  not  refuse  him. 

It  was  arranged  that  we  should  dine  with  the  Emperor  on 
Tuesday,  the  23rd  of  October,  in  Chapultepec,  where  our 
transactions  would  be  less'  observed  than  in  Mexico. 

I  had  not  yet  been  presented  to  the  Emperor,  for  as  the 
Empress  had  left  he  did  not  receive  any  ladies  at  court. 

Our  dinner-party,  and  afterwards  the  whole  scheme,  was, 
however,  frustrated  by  a  most  unexpected  event,  which  created 
confusion  and  consternation  everywhere.  On  Sunday,  the 
2ist  October,  the  Emperor  suddenly  left  Mexico,  and  went  to 
Orizava,  with  the  intention  of  returning  at  once  to  Europe. 
He  had  received  the  news  of  the  distressing  illness  of  the 
Empress. 

After  the  first  effects  of  this  news  v/ere  over,  Maximilian 
remembered  what  he  owed,  not  only  to  his  position,  but  also 
to  all  those  who  had  embarked  in  his  cause.  He  could  not 
run  away  as  it  were  from  the  battle-field,  and  if  he  really 
resolved  on  giving  up  his  high-flying  and  noble  plans,  he  saw 
that  he  must  abdicate  in  a  manner  becoming  an  Archduke  of 
Austria.  This  abdication  was  the  great  desire  of  the  French, 
and  they  did  all  they  eould  to  bring  him  into  such  a  position 
as  to  make  any  other  decision  almost  impossible.  In  this 
endeavour  Bazaine  was  assisted  by  the  Austrian  and  Belgian 
Ministers,  while,  on  the  other  hand,  Miramon,  Marquez,  and 
Father  Fischer  hurried  to  Orizava,  to  entreat  the  Emperor  to 
ressain,  and  to  rely  on  the  Mexican  people,  promising  that 
everything  would  go  well  if  only  the  hated  French  would  leave 
th.e  country.  •     • 


War's  Alarms.  ICio 

AVhilst  all  these  negotiations  were  going  on  we  amused  our- 
selves in  the  usual  way  in  Mexico.  The  life  we  were  leading 
was  pleasant  enough,  but  my  Hotspur  Felix  panted  for  war. 
Though  as  kind-hearted  as  could  be,  and  as  gentle  as  a 
lamb,  he  had  the  pugnacious  instincts  of  a  fighting  cock.  War 
was  his  very  element.  That  he  once,  when  still  a  boy,  was 
left  with  seven  wounds  on  the  battle-field,  did  not  cure  him. 
Through  the  American  war  he  escaped  without  a  hurt.  A 
shot  in  his  right  arm,  which  was  rather  dangerous,  received  in 
a  duel,  did  not  cure  him  either.  When  any  one  looked  askance 
at  him,  or  too  admiringly  at  me,  his  eye  became  vicious  and 
the  colour  of  his  face  heightened.  He  was  like  a  cocked  pistol, 
every  moment  ready  to  go  off. 

The  Belgian  Corps,  under  Colonel  van  der  Smissen,  was 
ordered  on  an  expedition  into  the  interior.  Salm  could  not 
bear  the  idea  of  staying  in  Mexico  idling  away  his  time.  He 
urgently  applied  to  the  Secretary  of  War  for  permission  to  join 
the  expedition  as  a  volunteer,  and  was  quite  crazy  with  plea- 
sure when  it  was  granted.  I,  who  had  been  always  with  him, 
could  not  realise  the  idea  of  being  left  behind,  but  he  would 
not  listen  to  my  going  with  him.  At  last,  after  a  hard  battle 
of  six  hours,  he  had  to  surrender.  I  and  Jimmy  were  to  ac- 
company him. 

We  left  Mexico  on  the  8th  of  November,  at  eight  o'clock  in 
the  morning,  only  with  one  company,  but  met  the  rest  of  the 
Belgian  Legion  on  the  road.  Passing  through  St.  Christoval, 
we  arrived  on  the  9th  in  Tipaguca,  where  we  had  scarcely 
pitched  our  tents  when  an  alarm  was  beaten.  Columns  of  the 
enemy  were  reported  before  us.  Salm  and  A^an  der  Smissen 
reconnoitred,  and  they  advanced  towards  Tipaguca,  and  it 
was  decided  on  attacking  the  enemy  at  once.  Salm  snorted 
battle,  and  I  caught  the  excitement.  I  wouldn't  be  left  bel^ind. 
I  declared  I  would  rather  brave  the  dangers  of  battle  than 
those  awaiting  me,  perhaps,  if  I  was  left  behind.  Van  der 
Smissen  smiled,  advised  me  not  to  fire  my  revolver  at  a  dis- 
tance, but  to  save  my  six  shots  for  a  hand-to-hand  fight.  Salm 
made  an  angry  face  and  dropped  his  lorgnette,  but  I  joyously 
pressed  my  horse  between  both  of  theirs  at  the  head  of  the 
troops,  and  we  advanced  at  a  quick  pace. 

The  enemy  for  a  good  while  were  not  aware  of  our  presence, 
but  when  they  'law  us,  and  understood  unmistakeably  that  we 


IG-i       .  Ten   Years  of  my  Life. 

meant  fight,  they  turned  tail  and  ran  like  partridges,  and  we 
on  seeing  that  ran  still  faster  after  them.  The  result  was  that 
we  soon  came  near  enough  to  discover  that  the  enemies  were 
no  enemies  after  all,  but  good  Austrians,  who,  however,  on 
their  part  could  not  recognise  us  for  what  we  really  were, 
because  Austrians  have  stiJl  less  eyes  behind  than  other 
nations,  and  therefore  kept  on  running.  To  cut  the  question 
short,  I  spurred  my  horse,  and  when  I  reached  them  and  told 
them  that  we  did  not  want  to  kill  them  at  all,  they  were 
extremely  glad,  and  I  do  not  wonder  that  some  very  frightened 
Catholics  mistook  me  for  tlie  Holy  Virgin  or  some  angel  on 
horseback,  despatched  expressly  by  their  patron  saint  to  save 
them. 

These  Austrians,  commanded  by  Lieutenant-Colonel  Pollack, 
had  had  an  encounter  with  the  Liberals  just  before  they  saw 
us,  had  lost  about  forty  killed,  and  had  not  yet  recovered  from 
their  fright. 

We  marched  together  to  Pachuca,  a  rather  ugly  place,  where 
we  were  lodged  in  the  house  of  Mr.  Auld,  a  very  rich  gentle- 
man, who  was  director  of  an  English  mining  company,  that 
had  rented  the  silver  mines  in  the  neighbourhood.  Mr.  Auld 
and  his  wife  were  extremely  kind  and  amiable  people.  The 
Empress  and  her  ladies  had  once  been  their  guests,  and  were 
delighted  with  their  hospitaHty.  Mrs.  Auld  showed  me  a  very 
rich  bracelet  which  the  Empress  had  presented  to  her  as  a 
keepsake. 

We  had  not  much  time  to  examine  the  mines,  which  are  very 
considerable,  for  there  work  more  than  a  thousand  Indians,  and 
nearly  two  thousand  mules.  We  saw,  however,  some  of  the 
sohd  silver  ingots,  each  worth  fifteen  hundred  dollars,  of  which 
twelve  millioi:is'  worth  of  dollars  are  produced  every  year. 

Next  day  we  had  only  a  short  march,  leaving  the  Austrians 
behind.  We  passed  the  place  where  they  had  been  beaten  by 
the  Liberals,  of  wliom  we,  however,  saw  nothing  that  day. 
The  country  through  which  we  marched  was  very  romantic, 
but  rather  rough.  It  looked  very  much  like  some  parts  of 
Switzerland,  and  nothing  reminded  us  that  we  were  in  a  trop- 
ical country.  There  vv'ere  no  aloes,  no  palm-trees,  nothing  but 
pines,  cedars,  cypresses,  and  ever-green  oaks.  No  wonder,  for 
Kial  del  Monte,  a  little  town,  v/hich  we  reached  after  three 
hours,  and  which  is  situated  in  a  ravine,  is  ten  thousand  feet 


Tulancingo.  165 

abvove  the  sea  !     Vie  were  quartered  there  in  the  house  of  a 
Dr.  Griftin, 

On  the  T2th  of  November  we  came  to  Huasca,  which  the 
Liberals  had  left  only  an  hour  before  our  arrival.  The  wea- 
ther was  splendid,  and  v/e  all  were  in  a  very  good  humour,  fur 
our  quarters  were  pleasant. 

Next  day  we  arrived  at  the  end  of  our  march,  at  Tulancin- 
go, where  the  Austrian  detachment  ot  Colonel  Pollack's  corps 
came  to  meet  us,  for  we  were  to  relieve  them,  and  they  marched 
off  towards  Pachuca. 

Tulancingo  is  quite  a  considerable  town,  and  the  seat  of  a 
bishop,  who  has  there  a  palace.  The  v.-hole gar-ison  consisted 
ot  onlv  sixteen  hundred  men,  of  whom  one  half  were  unreliable 
Mexicans.  As  we  expected  to  be  attacked  every  day  by  very 
superior  forces.  Colonel  van  der  Smissen  sent  to  I^ieutenant- 
Colonel  Pollack,  requesting  him  to  reinforce  the  garrison  by 
his  Austrians,  but  all  our  officers  were  very  indignant  when 
that  worthy  refused  to  come.  He  had  had  enough  of  tightingv 
and  wanted  to  go  home.  As  the  garrison  was  too  weak  to 
undertake  anything  outside  against  the  Liberals,  who  were  in 
force  in  the  neighbourhood,  Salm  was  very  busy  wiih  fortifying 
the  open  place,  and  taking  all  kinds  of  precautions,  not  only 
against  an  attack  from  outside,  but  also  against  treachery  in- 
side, for  the  Mexican  troops  were  not  to  be  trusted  at  all. 

We  were  very  agreeably  quartered  in  the  house  of  Mr.  Gayon, 
the  Spanish  Vic^-Consul,  a  very  wealthy  man,  with  a  pretty 
well-educated  wife,  who  had  been  in  Europe,  and  to  whom  1  be- 
came quite  attached. 

The  country  is  very  fine,  and  the  mountain  near  tempted  us 
to  make  excursions  ;  but  as  the  Liberals  were  always  on  the 
look-out  we  did  not  venture  far,  and  amused  ourselves  as  well 
as  we  could  in  the  town,  which  had  a  nice  theatre. 

As  it  is  the  fashion  there  to  dance  every  night  during  the 
two  weeks  preceding  Christmas,  we  had  quite  a  lively  time. 
These  tertullas  always  .take  place  at  the  same  private  house, 
designated  that  year  for  that  purpose.  The  entertainment  of 
the  guests  falls,  however,  to  the  charges  of  all  the  ladies,  taking 
part  alternately,  so  that  every  night  a  different  lady  performs 
the  duties  of  hostess. 

Carpets  are  not  usual  in  private  houses,  but  people  there 
imagine  that  thev  cannot  dance  on  the  bare  floor,  and  for  :i 
ball  or  tertulla  carpets  are  hired. 


168  Ten   Years  of  my  Life. 

Not  liking  to  accept,  without  return,  the  hospitality  of  the 
people  of  the  town,  Colonel  \^n  der  Smissen  and  Felix  gave  a 
great  ball  at  some  public  hail,  to  which  a  great  many  persons 
were  invited,  and  which  was  a  great  success. 

As  a  large  Liberal  force  was  assembled  not  far  from  the 
town,  as  said  before,  we  expected  to  be  attacked  every  day, 
but  instead  ot  that  there  arrived,  soon  after  Christmas,  an  order 
from  General  Bazaine  to  surrender  Tulancingo  to  the  Liberal 
General  Martinez,  the  chief  of  whose  staff  was  sent  under  a 
flag  of  truce  to  arrange  that  afifiir.  Our  officers  were  very 
much  astonished  to  hear  from  that  officer  that  Bazaine  and  the 
Liberals  were  on  quite  friendly  terms,  but  they  had  to  obey 
orders,  and  we  were  ready  to  leave  Tulancingo  on  the  28th  of 
December. 

Our  situation  Avas  by  no  means  reassuring,  for  we  had  heard 
of  the  arrival  of  a  noted  guerilla  chief,  of  the  name  of  Caraba- 
jal,  with  about  a  thousand  men,  who  were  no  better  than  rob- 
bers, and  who  did  not  care  for  any  treaties  or  capitulations. 
Moreover,  our  expectations  in  reference  to  the  treachery  of  our 
Mexican  troops  were  fulfilled  on  the  morning  of  the  surrender. 
The  rascal  who  commanded  them,  a  Colonel  Peralta,  went 
over  with  his  whole  regiment  of  cavalry  to  the  enemy. 

When  we  were  assembled  in  the  market-place,  ready  to 
evacuate  the  town,  I  was  there  also  with  Jimmy.  Now,  that 
dog  is  a  very  intelligent  dog.  Having  accompanied  me  through 
the  whole  American  war,  he  had  learnt  that  gmis  are  dangerous 
engines,  and  that  when  shots  are  fired  from  them  mischief  is 
done.  'He  therefore  has  a  most  sensible  dread  of  guns  and 
shots,  because  he  is  very  fond  of  life,  and  of  roast  veal,  and 
beefsteak,  and  cutlets,  and  other  things  which  make  the  exist- 
ence of  a  dog  agreeable,  and  which  he  is  desirous  of  enjoyins; 
as  long  as  possible.  When  he  saw  in  the  market-place  so 
many  shooting  engines,  the  poor  darling  became  frightened, 
and  ran  home  to  his  old  quarters,  hiding  himselfin  the  bed, 
I  am  sure  many  sensible  men  would  like  to  do  the  same  be- 
fore a  battle,  if  they  only  could  muster  courage  enough  to 
rim  away  like  Jirrimy,  who  has  no  prejudices. 

When  I  noticed  the  absence  of  my  pet  I  was  in  despair,  and 
as  the  dog  would  not  have  trusted  anybody  else,  dear,  kind 
Saim  went  back  himself  to  fetch  him.  When  he  came  out  of 
tile  house  he  met  some  of  the  enemy,  who  had  entered  already, 


Cautious  Jimmy,  1C7 

against  the  agreement,  but  seeing  the  colonel  of  the  Imperial 
forces  with  such  a  fine  dog  under  his  arms,  they  were  awe- 
struck, and  saluted  him  respectfully. 

Now,  had  Jimmy  not  been  so  cautious,  he  would  have  been 
killed  long  ago,  instead  of  sitting  now  demurely  at  my  side, 
having  reached  in  its  thirteenth  year  a  reputation  few  dogs  can 
boast  of.  His  beautiful  head  has  been  caressed  by  three  em- 
perors, and  his  four-legged  soul  has  been  sanctified  by  the 
touch  of  most  holy  cardinals  and  archbishops,  not  to  speak  of 
presidents,  senators,  simple  highnesses  or  generals.  It  he 
should  die  before  me,  I  will  have  his  life-size  statue  made  in 
black  marble,  and  order  in  my  last  will  that  it  be  placed  over 
my  grave — or  on  the  top  of  my  ash-urn,  if  I  should  be  burned, 
as  I  hope  I  shall. 

We  had  scarcely  left  Tulancingo  half  <in  hour,  when  Caraba- 
jal's  rascals  attacked  our  rearguard.  Van  der  Smissen  would 
not  engage  with  them,  and  thought  it  best  to  gallop  out  of  their 
way.  We  tore  away  at  a  nice  rate,  but  it  was  a  somewhat  dif- 
ficult job,  for  Jimmy  was  sitting  before  me  on  my  saddle,  and 
he  became  somewhat  unsettled  when  the  Mexicans  fired.  But 
under  such  aggravating  circumstances  I  collared  him  tightly, 
not  minding  his  whine,  for  in  general  he  is  a  very  good  horse- 
man, following  the  movements  of  the  horse  like  an 
Englishman, 

The  Carabajal  robbers  had  not  much  courage,  however,  and 
after  having  received  a  few  shots  from  our  Belgians  they  re- 
tired, and  left  us  unmolested. 

The  Belgian  Legion  had  received  already  in  Tulancingo  an 
order  by  which  it  was  disbanded,  and  General  Bazaine  had 
offered  free  passage  to  those  of  the  men  who  preferred  return- 
ing to  Europe,  which  offer  was  gladly  accepted  by  most  of 
*hem.     We  were  now  on  our  march  to  Puebla. 

We  remained  the  night  in  Texcoco  in  very  bad  quarters, 
and  arrived  on  January  2,  in  the  afternoon,  at  Buena  Vista. 
Salm,  who  was  a  great  sportsman,  wa^  tempted  by  the  many 
wild  duck  in  the  neighbourhood,  and  went  after  them ;  but  he 
shot  nothing,  and  returned  rather  disappointed. 

We  received  orders  to  halt  at  Buena  Vista,  and  at  the  same 
time  the  news  that  the  Emperor  would  pass  that  place  on  his 
way  from  Orizava  to  Mexico.  He  arrived  next  morning, 
escorted  by  some  Austrian  cavalry,  and  accompanied  by  many 


168  Ten   Years  of  my  Life. 

officers.  He  drove  in  a  carriage  drawn  by  four  white  mules. 
We  saw  him  pass,  but  the  wht)le  procession  made  on  all  of  us 
a  rather  sad  impression.  Van  der  Smissen,  who  took  a  rather 
dark  view  of  the  situation  of  Maximilian,  said,  '  It  looked  to 
him  as  it  the  Emperor  were  being  led  to  his  execution.'  He 
had  expected  him  to  abdicate,  which  was  the  joint  wish  of 
Bazaine  and  ot  General  Castelneau,  whom  Napolean  HI.  had 
sent  especially  to  advise  this  course,  in  order  to  facilitate  the 
arrangements  with  the  Liberals.  As  I,  however,  said  before, 
Maximilian  listened  to  the  promises  of  Miramon,  Marquez, 
and  Father  Fischer,  and  resolved  to  remain,  and  was  now  on 
his  way  from  Orizava  to  Mexico. 

The  Emperor  stopped  four  leagues  from  Buena  Vista,  at 
Ayotola,  and  Salm  had  there  an  audience,  and  also  an  inter- 
view with  Father  Fischer,  receiving  from  them  authorisation 
to  raise  a  regiment  of  cavalry,  which  he  hoped  to  recruit  from 
the  disbanded  legions.  Therefore,  not  to  lose  sight  or  them, 
we  accompanied  the  Belgians  on  their  march  to  Puebla,  where 
we  arrived  on  January  9. 

Travelling   in   this  manner   I    enjoyed   the   beauty  of  the 

,  country  far  more  than  had  been  the   case  on  my  passing  it  in 

the  diligence.     We  had  always  the  beautiful  mountain  giants 

before  us,  the  Sierra  Nevada,  the  Popocatapetl,  and  the  peak 

of  Orizava. 

Popocatapetl  means  in  Indian  language  a  '  woman  in  white,' 
and  the  Mexicans  have  a  legend  about  it.  One  of  these 
mountains,  which  were  once  mighty  giants,  killed  for  some 
reason  or  other — I  suppose  jealousy — his  wife,  and  laid  her  on 
the  Sierra  Nevada,  where  she  is  still  plainly  to  be  seen.  On  pas- 
sing not  too  far  from  it  in  very  clear  weather,  I. was  much 
struck  by  the  appearance  of  that  mountain,  which  showed  as 
plainly  as  if  chiselled  in  while  marble  the  gigantic  form  of  a 
reclinmg  woman.  The  whole  figure,  shape,  arms,  and  even 
her  dishevelled  hair,  are  to  be  seen  with  wonderful  distinct- 
ness. 

On  our  arrival  in  Puebla  I  fell  ill,  and  the  uncertainty  in  re- 
ference to  our  future  made  me  still  more  so.  Everybody  was 
seized,  as  it  were,  by  a  moral  panic.  Reports  of  the  most 
contradictory  character,  but  all  distressing  were  circulated,  and 
rhe  desire  to  leave  Mexico  and  go  to  Europe  became  general. 
Xobodv   knew    wliat    the   Emperor   intended    to  do,  but  the 


An  Indian  Doctor.  160 

French  and  also  the  Austrians  asserted  that  he  would  still  ab- 
dicate and  return  to  Europe  also. 

When  the  Belgians  and  Colonel  van  der  Smissen  left  us  for 
Vera  Cruz,  Salm  was  also  taken  with  the  prevailing  fever  ;  and 
to  come  to  a  decision  he  went  to  Mexico,  and  after  having 
spoken-  to  Baron  Magnus  he  called  on  the  iSth  on  Father  Fis- 
cher and  gave  in  his  resignation,  which,  however,  was  refused. 

Meanwhile  I  remained  ill  at  Puebla,  in  a  very  fine  building 
— I  believe  the  Town  Hall — which  General  Bazaine  had 
changed  into  a  private  hotel  or  casino,  where  higher  officers 
passing  the  city  found  better  and  cheaper  accommodation  than 
at  the  hotels.  I  owed  a  good  room  in  that  house  to  the  kind- 
ness of  General  Douay. 

1  was  indeed  very  ill  with  diphtheria,  and  sent  for  an  Indian 
doctor  who  had  been  recommended  to  me.  His  cure  was 
effective  but  disagreeable,  for  he  gave  me  nothing  but  emetics. 

Salm  returned  to  Puebla,  but  still  hoping  to  retain  some  of 
the  Belgian  and  Austrian  troops  for  his  regiment  he  went  to 
Vera  Cruz,  where  he  found,  however,  that  Van  der  Smissen 
and  his  men  had  left. 

When  my  husband  returned  I  was  better,  and  we  resolved 
to  go  to  Mexico,  where  we  arrived  on  the  25th,  and  alighted 
at  the  Hotel  Iturbide.  We  saw  of  course  Baron  Magnus,  and 
were  frequently  in  Tacubaya,  at  Hube,  who  gave  very  fine  par- 
ties. Salm,  however,  was  much  dissatisfied,  for  he  had  nothing 
particular  to  do,  and  wanted  employment.  He  called  every 
day  on  Father  Fischer,  who  was  now  in  the  confidence  ot  the 
Emperor  ;  the  priest  was  very  liberal  with  promises,  but  would 
or  could  not  keep  them,  or  wanted  only  to  gain  time  until  the 
French  should  have  left' Mexico. 

This  happy  day  at  last  came  ;  it  was  the  5th  of  February, 
All  Mexico  was  in  a  fever  of  excitement — a  kind  of  sullen,  in- 
ward excitement ;  for  there  were  no  cries  of  farewell  or  other- 
wise to  be  heard,  except  by  some  French  people  who  waved 
their  handkerchiefs,  whilst  the  French  soldiers  cried,  '  A  Ber- 
lin, a  Berlin  ! '  Salm  and  I  witnessed  this  departure  from  a 
balcony  of  the  Hotel  Iturbide. 

When  the  hated  and  despised  allies  had  left  the  city,  it  was 
as  if  a  nightmare  were  taken  from  the  breast  of  everyone  ;  and 
if  the  people  did  not  rejoice  too  loudly,  it  was  because  they 
could  not  realise  yet  their  happiness,  and  still  feared  Bazain-^ 
and  his  insolent  soldiers  might  returii. 


170  Ten  Years  of  my  Life. 

Madame  Bazaine,  who  was  in  a  far-advanced  interesting 
state,  made  the  journey  in  a  splendid  palanquin,  built  for  the 
purpose,  which  was  carried  by  Indians  and  under  a  strong 
escort  to  Vera  Cruz. 

We  heard  for  some  days  absolutely  nothing  positive  about 
the  plans  of  the  Emperor,  until  on  the  12th  of  February  the 
report  ran  through  Mexico  that  he  would  place  himself  at  the 
head  of  the  army  and  join  Miramon  in  Queretaro,  in  order  to 
hinder  the  enemy  from  concentrating  his  troops  and  marching 
against  Mexico.  This  report  was  true,  and  the  Emperor  was 
to  marcli  next  morning,  leaving  all  German  troops  and  officers 
behind,  as  Marquez  and  the  other  Mexicans  had  persuaded 
Maximilian  to  rely  entirely  and  solely  on  his  new  subjects. 

Salm  \yas  beside  himself  when  he  heard  that  he  should  be 
left  behind.  It  was  an  idea  he  could  not  realise,  that  there 
should  at  last  be  serious  fighting  and  he  idling  away  his  time 
in  Mexico.  He  ran  at  once  tc  Baron  Magnus,  and  prevailed 
upon  him  to  take  some  steps  with  the  Emperor  in  order  to  pro- 
cure for  my  husband  permission  to  accompany  the  army. 
Magnus's  endeavours  were,  however,  in  vain,  but  he  found 
some  other  means  to  satisfy  the  pugnacious  longings  of  my 
impetuous  Felix.  It  was  arranged  with  General  Don  Santiago 
Vidaurri,  a  highly  respectable  and  most  influential  man,  that  he 
should  enter  his  staff,  the  Secretary  of  War  permitting.  This 
permission  was  granted,  and  Salm  jumped  nearly  out  of  his 
skin  for  pleasure.  The  General,  who  had  to  take  with  him 
money,  was  to  join  the  Emperor  at  Quincliclan,  and  left  with 
Salm  on  the  13th  of  February  in  the  afternoon. 

I  of  course  expected  to  go  with  Salm  as  usual,  but  for  once 
he  refused  in  a  most  determined  manner  and  remained  deaf  to  all 
my  entreaties.  Now  it  was  my  turn  to  become  mad.  I  cried 
and  screamed  so  as  to  be  heard  two  blocks  off;  and  Jim.my, 
who  felt  for  his  mistress,  howled  and  barked  ;  but  Salm  stole 
away  and  took  a  street  where  he  could  not  hear  me  and  I  not 
see  him.  I  believe  I  hated  him  at  that  moment,  and  felt  very 
unhappy,  for  I  knew  he  would  come  to  grief,  having  never  any 
luck  without  me. 

All  my  anger  and  grief,  however,  availed  nothing.  I  had  to 
become  reconciled  to  my  situation.  After  all  I  think  he  was 
right,  and,  moreover,  he  had  taken  care  that  I  should  be  left 
well  protected  and  in  an  agreeable  position. 


The  Huhe  Family.  171 

We  had  become  rather  intimate  with  Hube's,  and  Salm  had 
arranged  that  I  should  stay  with  them  in  Tacubaya  during  his 
absence. 

Mr.  Fred  Hube  had  been  formerly  Mexican  Consul-Gen  era! 
of  Hamburg,  and  was  engaged  in  some  manufacturing  business, 
and  a  rich  man.  He  was  a  very  kind  and  respectable  old  gen- 
tleman, and  Mrs.  Hube  was  the  dearest,  sweetest,  and  kindest 
old  lady  in  the  world.  I  cannot  find  words  strong  enough  to 
express  my  feelings  of  gratitude  towards  her,  for  she  did  not 
receive  me  in  her  house  as  a  stranger,  but  could  not  have 
treated  me  more  carefully  and  lovingly  had  I  been  her 
daughter. 

She  had,  however,  besides  a  grown-un  and  very  agreeable  son, 
a  daughter  of  my  age,  with  whom  I  made  friends  very  soon,  and 
as  we  lived  in  the  same  room  we  became  very  intimate.  He- 
lena Hube  was  a  dear  good  girl,  and  her  only  fault,  for  which 
she  was,  however,  not  responsible,  was  that  there  was  too  much 
of  her,  for  she  stood  above  six  feet  in  her  stockings.  She  was 
not  taller  than  usual  before  she  fell  ill  with  a  fever  ;  but  after 
having  recovered  from  that  she  shot  up  like  asparagus,  and  be- 
came quite  a  giantess.  When  she  was  sitting  on  a  chair  we 
were  of  the  same  height. 

As  I  ^m  writing  my  own  memoirs  and  not  those  of  my  hus- 
band, nor  history  either,  I  shall  not  say  much  about  the  siege 
of  Queretaro,  and  the  less  as  my  husband  has  done  so  him- 
selfi 

y.  For  many  weeks  we  heard  nothing  from  Queretaro  but  vague 
reports,  and  of  a  very  contradictory  unreliable  kind.  At  last, 
in  Marcli,  we  received  news  that  General  Marquez  had  arrived 
from  Queretaro  with  three  thousand  men,  and  all  Mexico  was 
in 'a  flutter  of  excitement.  As  L  was  extremely  anxious  to  hear 
news  of  my  husband,  I  requested  Mr.  Hube  to  accompany  me 
to  the  General,  to  which  he  readily  consented. 

General  Don  Leonardo  Marquez  received  us  very  graciously. 
He  was  a  little  lively  man,  with  black  hair  and  black  keen  eyes. 
He  was  now  a  great  personage,  and  liked  to  show  his  impor- 
tance. The  Emperor  had  made  him  Luogoteniente  of  the 
Empire,  but  he  behaved  and  spoke  as  though  the  Emperor 

I  *My  Diary  in  Mexico,'  &c.,  by  Felix  Salm-Salm,  General,  &c.,  2  vols. 
London  :  Richard  Bently,  1868.  ^ 


172  Ten   Years  of  my  Life. 

were  only  his  pupil,  and  he  himself  the  principal  personage  in 
all  Mexico.  To  me,  howeveif,  he  was  very  condescending,  and 
his  sinister  swarthy  face  was  all  friendly  wrinkles.  He  had  cut 
off  his  beard,  which  generally  concealed  the  scar  from  a  shot  in 
his  face,  and  he  did  not  look  the  better  for  it. 

He  spoke  however,  of  the  Prince  in  the  highest  terms,  said 
that  he  was  one  of  the  bravest  officers  in  Queretaro,  and  that 
he  had  very  recently  distinguished  himself  by  taking  six  guns 
from  the  Liberals  at  the  head  of  a  handful  of  men.  For  his 
brave  behaviour  on  this  occasion  /le  had  decorated  him,  and  /u 
had  appointed  him  General,  the  very  day  before  he  left. 

We  went  also  to  visit  General  Vidaurri,  who  came  with 
Marquez.  He  confirmed  what  Marquez  had  told  us  about  the 
state  of  affairs  in  the  besieged  city,  that  all  was  going  on  ex- 
tremely well  there,  and  that  my  husband  had  greatly  distin- 
guished himself.  The  worthy  old  General  spoke  of  him  with 
great  vv^armth,  and  said  that  he  loved  him  like  his  own  son. 

The  good  news  which  Marquez  brought  to  Mexico  about  the 
state  of  affairs  in  Queretaro  gladdened  all  our  hearts,  and  festi- 
vals, balls,  fire-works,  &c.,  followed  each  other  in  rapid  succes- 
sion in  Mexico  during  the  next  two  days  ;  whilst  at  the  same 
time  preparations  were  being  made  to  march  against  Porfiric 
Diaz,  who  was  advancing  on  Peubla.  To  attack  him,  and 
annihilate  his  army,  were,  said  Marquez,  the  instjuctions  of  the 
Emperor. 

Everything  was  at  last  ready,  and  Marquez  marched  from 
Mexico  with  all  the  foreign  troops,  leaving  only  a  very  small 
garrison  of  Mexicans  in  that  city,  which  were  not  even  suffi- 
cient to  prevent  the  Liberal  guerillas  from  coming  with^  the 
garitas  (gates),  and  fighting  was  going  on  all  the  time  around 
Tacubaya. 

After  Marquez  and  the  army  had  left  us  three  days,  reports 
of  a  great  victory  reached  Mexico.  Porfirio  Diaz  was  beaten, 
and  his  whole  army  dispersed.  That  report,  however,  did  not 
last  long.  On  the  fourth  day  after  his  absence,  Marquez, 
accompanied  only  by  twelve  horsemen,  returned  a  fugitive, 
twelve  hours  in  advance  of  his  whole  army,  which  had  been 
totally  defeated  at  San  Lorenzo  on  the  8th  of  April,  and  lost  all 
its  guns. 

Had  Porfirio  Diaz  been  able  to  follow  up  his  victory  fist 
cnoucjh  to  reach  Mexico  within  two  days  after  the  return  of  our 


Hide-and-seek  Warfare.  173 

utterly  demoralized  army,  he  might  have  occupied  that  city 
without  any  difficuky.  He,  however,  only  reached  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  the  capital  on  the  third  day,  when  the  Imperi.il 
troops  had  recovered  a  little  from  their  defeat.  Marquez  had 
long  before  lost  all  courage  and  hope,  and  as  his  fate  could  not 
be  doubtful  if  he  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  Liberals,  he  had 
prepared  everything  to  go  to  Vera  Cruz,  and  to  leave  Mexico 
and  the  German  troops  to  do  what  they  could  for  themselves. 
I  suppose  he  was  prevented  from  carrying  out  this  plan  by  the 
fear  of  falling  from  the  frying-pan  into  the  fire  if  he  left  Mexico, 
for  the  road  to  Vera  Cruz  was  barred  by  Porfirio  Diaz's  army. 

The  advanced  guard  of  the  Liberal  army  passed  our  house 
in  Tacubaya,  and  I  admired  their  fine  horses  and  uniforms,  the 
greater  part  of  which  they  had  taken  from  the  Imperial '^sts. 

Before  their  arrival,  fighting  between  the  Imperialists  and 
Liberal  guerillas  was  going  on  in  the  very  streets  of  Tacubaya, 
and  frequently  right  before  our  house.  Though  \ye  had  closed 
the  blind  my  curiosity  prevailed,  and  I  and  Helena  Hube 
peeped  out  to  see  what  was  going  on,  to  the  dismay  of  old  Mr. 
Hlibe,  who  was  afraid  a  bullet  might  kill  or  wound  us.  The 
spectacle,  was,  however,  too  attractive,  and  we  could  not  stay 
away.  It  was  curious  and  almost  ridiculous  to  see  how  the 
skirmishers  of  both  parties  played  hide-and-seek,  running  now 
around  corners,  and  popping  suddenly  out  to  fire  a  few  shots, 
by  which,  however  no  real  harm  was  done.  It  looked  more 
like  play  than  war. 

Tacubaya  was  occupied,  and  also  Chapultepec,  without  any 
resistance  from  the  Imperialists,  and  the  siege  of  Mexico 
commenced. 


174^ 


CHAPTER  XI. 

Fearful  dreams — My  escape  from  Tacubaya — Going  to  Mexico— Colonel 
Leon — My  propositions  to  the  German  Colonels — Negotiations — 
Madame  Baz — A  sad  mistake  rewarded  by  a  bullet — At  the  head- 
quarters of  Porfirio  Diaz — Mr.  Hube  my  interpreter — Return  to 
Mexico — Two  volleys  fired  at  me — No  harm  done — A  thunderstorm 
as  a  peace- maker — Baron  Magnus  retains  me  in  Mexico — What  re- 
sulted from  it — Confusion  in  Tacubaya — A  kind  invitation  to  go  to 
Jericho,  or  elsewhere  beyond  the  sea — Will  not  go — Female  general- 
ship against  Mexican  strategy — General  Baz — Permission  to  go  to 
Escobedo — Thirty-seven  letters  of  recommendation — My  journey  to 
Queretaro — Mexican  justice. 

During  the  following  night  I  dreamt  that  I  saw  my  husband 
dying.  The  Emperor  leant  over  him,  held  his  hand,  and  said 
with  deep  emotion,  '  Oh,  my  dear  friend,  you  must  not  leave 
me  alone  now  !'  My  husband  called  out  my  name.  Fighting 
was  going  on  all  around,  and  everywhere  I  saw  blood  and  all 
the  horrors  of  battle. 

The  same  dream  was  repeated  during  the  next  night. 
Again  I  saw  my  husband  dying,  and  heard  him  loudly  call  my 
name.  Battle  was  raging  again,  all  was  dark,  and  from  the 
sombre  clouds  lightning  was  flashing  every  instant.  The 
third  night  I  had  again  the  same  dream,  my  husband  calling 
out  for  me  louder  than  ever. 

It  was  natural  that  such  a  dream,  three  times  repeated, 
should  make  me  extremely  uneasy,  and  the  more  so  as  I  am 
a  believer  in  dreams.  I  made  up  my  mind  therefore  to  go  to 
Mexico,  and  to  have  an  interview  with  Baron  Magnus  and  the 
commanders  of  the  foreign  troops,  and  try  what  I  could  do  to 
save  the  Emperor  and  my  husband,  who,  it  seemed  to  me, 
were  in  the  greatest  danger.  .       '  . 


Going  to  Mexico.  175 

When  I  told  old  Mr.  Hube  that  I  intended  to  go  to  ]\Iexicc, 
he  opposed  my  purpose  very  much,  and  became  quite  excited 
about  it.  He  said  he  would  do  all  in  his  power  to  prevent 
me  from  doing  such  a  rash  thing.  He  was  responsible  for  me, 
he  said ;  I  had  been  placed  in  his  house  by  my  husband,  and 
he  would  not  suffer  me  to  commit  any  such  absurdity. 

Now  I  had  been  received  into  his  family  with  the  utmost 
kindness,  both  Mr.  Hube  and  his  wife  had  treated  me  as  their 
child,  and  I  therefore  felt,  grieved  to  be  obliged  to  do  anything 
which  displeased  them  so  much.  However,  there  are  certain 
impulses  which  it  is  impossible  to  resist,  and  against  which  all 
reasons  are  powerless.  On  this  occasion  I  felt  as  if  urged  on 
by  invisible  hands  to  follow  the  voice  of  my  heart.  Although 
I  feigned  to  be  convinced  by  Mr.  Hube,  yet  I  was  decided  to 
go  under  any  circumstances. 

Mr.  Hube  and  his  wife  did  not,  however,  trust  me,  and  as 
he  was  afraid  I  might  abscond  during  the  night,  he  not  only 
locked  the  gate,  but  took  the  key  with  him  into  his  room.  It 
was  necessary  therefore  to  wait  until  the  morning,  when  the 
stable  servants  came  at  six  o'clock,  and  the  house  was  open. 
I  then  stole  from  my  room  accompanied  by  my  chamber-maid, 
Margarita,  and  my  faithful  four-legged  companion,  Jmimy. 
However,  Mr.  Hube  was  on  the  look-out,  and  when  I  was  just 
leaving  the  house  ke  came  from  behind  a  corner,  stood  before 
me  with  a  very  dark  long  foce,  and  said,  '  Well,  Princess  ! ' 
I  only  answered,  '  Good-morning,  Mr.  Hube,'  and  passed  on 
towards  Mexico.  He  took,  however,  another  road,  and  when 
I  came  to  the  main  rpad  I  found  him  there  waiting  for  me. 

'Where  are  you  going?'  he  asked.  I  told  him  that  I  was 
going  to  Mexico,  but  without  mentioning  anything  about  my 
dreams  (at  which  he  would  only  have  laughed),  or  of  my  in- 
tention. He  now,  commenced  again  a  new  assault.  He  said 
that  I  might  be  killed,  or  run  other  risks  amongst  the  soldiers  ; 
and  for  two  mortal  hours  he  exhausted  his  whole  arsenal  of 
common-sense  arguments,  which  of  course  had  not  the  slightest 
effect  upon  me,  as  [  had  made  up  my  mind,  and  was  firmly  re- 
solved to  have  my  own  way.  I  thanked  him  for  all  his  kind- 
ness, and  all  the  trouble  he  took  about  me,  but  declared  that 
I  must  and  would  go.  The  dear  old  gentleman  turned  quite 
pale  and  did  not  say  a  word  more  to  detain  me.  I  had  to 
v/alk  with  my  maid  and  Jimmy  a  league  and  a  half  to  Chapul- 


17G  Ten  Years  of  my  Life. 

tepee.  The  whole  road  was  filled  with  Liberal  officers  and 
soldiers,  who  knew  me,  however,  as  they  had  seen  me  at  Mr. 
Hube's,  who  belonged  to  the  Liberal  party.  They  therefore 
greeted  me,  and  let  me  pass  unmolested. 

When  I  arrived  at  Chapultepec,  I  asked  for  the  command- 
ing officer,  a  Colonel  Leon,  who  had  been  two  years  in  the  United 
States  service,  and  spoke  English  tolerably  well.  When  he  was 
brought  from  a  restaurant,  where  he  took  his  breakfast,  he  re- 
ceived me  with  extreme  politeness.  I  told  him  that  I  was  in 
great  anxiety  about  my  husband  and  the  Emperor,  and  that  I 
longed  very  much  to  do  something  to  save  them.  For  this 
purpose  I  wanted  to  go  to  Mexico,  to  speak  to  the  com- 
manders of  the  foreign  troops,  to  ascertain  whether  they  would 
surrender  if  General  Porfirio  Diaz  would  engage  himself  to 
secure  life  and  liberty  to  the  Emperor  and  his  officers  if  they 
should  fall  into  the  hands  of  the  Liberals. 

The  Colonel  told  me  that  Queretaro  could  not  hold  out 
much  longer.  The  city  was  very  closely  besieged,  and  the 
garrison  already  starving. 

He  would  permit  me  to  pass  through  his  outposts,  and  I 
promised  to  return  as  soon  as  I  had  the  opinion  of  the  foreign 
colonels.  He  gave  me  his  arm,  and  went  with  me  about 
'  three-quarters  of  a  league  to  the  outposts,  Margarita  and 
Jimmy  following.  In  order  that  our  men  might  not  think  that 
I  was  stealing  into  the  city,  I  went  right  across  the  open  fields  to- 
wards the  garita  which  was  defended  by  a  battery.  The  offi- 
cers commanding  these  recognized  me,  and  I  had  no  difficul- 
ties. The  soldiers  very  politely  laid  boards  across  the  ditch, 
and  helped  me  over  the  rampart  of  the  battery. 
'  I  went  directly  to  the  house  of  the  Prussian  minister,  Baron 
von  Magnus,  whom  I  found  at  home.  He  received  me  with  a 
little  formality  and  coldness,  for  he  had,  I  do  not  know  for 
what  reasons,  a  prejudice  against  Hube,  and  was  not  at  all 
•  pleased  that  I  had  taken  up  my  residence  with  that  family. 
Taking,  however,  not  much  notice  of  his  diplomatic  stiffiiess,  I 
told  him  why  I  had  come  to  Mexico,  and  that  I  wanted  to  see 
Colonel  Kodolitsch  and  Count  Khevenhiiller,  of  whom  Colonel 
Leon  had  spoken  in  the  highest  terms,  because  they  fought  so 
bravely  at  San  Lorenzo,  and  promised,  on  his  word  of  honour, 
that  if  they  would  come  out  for  a  conversation,  he  would  let 
them  return  to  the  city,  whatever  might  be  the  result. 


The  German  Colonels.  177 

Baron  Magnus  changed  his  manner  at  once  when  he  heard 
my  plan,  and  how  I  was  proceeding  to  carry  it  out.  He  Uked 
my  idea  very  much,  but  of  course  wanted  to  direct  my  move- 
ments, and  was  very  sanguine  of  a  satisfactory  result  if  I  would 
be  guided  by  him.  He  ordered  his  carriage,  and  I  drove  to  the 
quarters  of  Colonel  Kodolitsch,  who  was  not  at  home,  but  whom 
I  found  with  Count  Khevenhiiller. 

Colonel  Kodolitsch  was  willing  to  go  out  and  talk  with 
Colonel  Leon,  but  only  under  the  condition  that  Baron  Magnus 
had  nothing  to  do  with  the  whole  affair,  *  as  the  Baron  was 
rather  inclined  to  act  as  he  pleased,  and  to  appropriate  the 
merit  to  himself  which  was  due  to  others.'  I  told  him  that  I 
had  already  made  an  engagement  with  the  minister,  and  I 
could  not  drop  him  now.  The  colonels  then  promised  to  speak 
as  soon  as  possible  to  their  officers  and  men,  and  let  me  know 
the  result.  Baron  Magnus  then  went  with  me  to  Madame 
Macholowitsch,  the  Mexican  wife  of  an  Austrian  officer,  where 
I  stayed  that  night. 

Next  morning  I  saw  the  two  colonels.  Count  Khevenhiiller 
was  for  surrender.  It  was  clear,  he  said,  that  General  Mar- 
quez  had  acted  treacherously  with  regard  to  the  Emperor,  and 
though  he  was  ready  to  give  a  hundred  lives  for  his  sovereign, 
he  did  not  want  to  sacritice  himself  or  his  men  for  Marquez. 

KodoUtsch,  however,  was  of  the  opinion  that  it  was  not 
desirable  to  treat  about  surrender,  without  having  first  heard 
reliable  news  from  Queretaro,  and  ascertained  the  will  of  the 
Emperor.  Though  he  was  willing  to  hear  what  conditions  the 
enemy  might  be  ready  to  grant,  he  could  not  meet  Colonel 
Leon,  as  Marquez,  who  must  have  some  suspicion,  had  issued 
an  order  that  morning  threatening  to  shoot  any  officer  or  soldier 
who  should  communicate  with  the  enemy  in  any  manner. 

I  then  requested  them  to  give  me  a  written  authorisation  to 
treat  in  the  name  of  the  foreign  officers  and  soldiers  ;  but  they 
thought  this  also  too  dangerous,  and  wanted  me  to  go  on  my  own 
account  and  to  make  two  propositions  to  Porfirio  Diaz.  The 
first  was  that  he  should  permit  me,  or  another  person,  to  travel 
to  Queretaro  to  inform  the  Emperor  of  the  true  state  of  affairs 
in  Mexico,  and  to  know  his  will,  for  which  purpose  an  armis- 
tice should  be  made  for  seven  days.  If  the  Liberal  General 
would  not  consent  to  this,  I  should,  under  the  circumstances, 
offer  him  the  surrender  of  all  foreign  troops,  under  the  condi- 

K 


178  Ten   Years  of  miy  Life. 

tion  that  Porfirio  Diaz  would^give  in  writing  his  word  of  honour 
that  he  would  guarantee  the  life  of  the  Emperor  and  the  for- 
eign troops,  if  they  should  become  prisoners. 

It  seemed  to  me  absurd  to  go  to  Porfirio  Diaz  without  any 
proof  that  I  was  really  deputed  by  the  foreign  troops.  I  there- 
fore requested  Baron  Magnus  to  give  me  at  least  a  few  lines. 
This  he  declined  also  to  do,  but  told  me  that  he  knew  another 
way  which  would  answer  the  purpose  just  as  well. 

There  lived,  he  said,  in  Mexico,  a  iSIadame  Baz,  v/hose  hus- 
band was  a  Liberal  General  on  the  staft  of  Porfirio  Diaz,  and 
who,  if  the  city  should  be  taken,  would  become  its  governor. 
This  lady  was  always  in  communication  with  the  enemy,  and 
acted  in  fact  as  their  spy.  She  might  be  used  in  this  afi'air 
and  inform  her  husband  that  I  should  come  as  the  deputy  of 
the  minister  and  the  colonels. 

Baron  Magnus  and  I  drove  to  Madame  Baz,  and  took  with 
us  Mr.  SchoUer,  the  chancellor  of  the  minister,  who  spoke 
Spanish  perfectly  well,  and  could  explain  everything  to  that 
lady  without  creating  mistakes  and  misunderstandings. 

Madame  Baz  was  a  very  clever  woman,  and  Irequently  used 
to  carry  on  difficult  negotiations.  At  the  time  when  the  French 
were  still  in  Mexico,  she  was  frequently  in  the  camp  of  the 
enemy  in  all  kinds  of  disguises.  Her  inlormation  was  always 
so  correct  and  so  well-timed,  that  the  Liberals  gave  her  the 
name  of  their 'Guardian  Angel.'  She  was  about  thirty  years 
of  age,  medium  height,  and  slender  build;  her  face  was  thin^ 
her  forehead  broad,  her  eyes  dark,  and  her  whole  countenance 
beaming  with  intelligence  and  energy. 

When  the  above  mentioned  propositions  were  stated  to  her 
Baron  Magnus  declared  that  he  would  defray  any  expenses  for 
travelling,  or  escort,  or  other  purposes,  to  any  amount. 

Madame  Baz  told  me  that  she  would  accompany  me  herself 
to  Porfirio  Diaz,  and  endeavour  to  persuade  him  to  accept  the 
stated  propositions,  but  she  could  not  go  until  next  day,  as 
she  had  to  wait  for  news  from  her  husband. 

I  had  promised  to  Colonel  Leon  to  return  and  let  him  know 
the  opinion  of  the  foreign  officers,  and  was  afraid  if  I  stayed 
too  long  in  the  city  he  might  become  suspicious  about  me.  I 
therefore  again  left  Mexico,  and  went  to  Gaza  San  Jago  Col- 
orado, where  I  met  Colonel  Leon,  He  told  me  that  he  had 
seen  Porfirio  Diaz,  and  informed  him  of  my  plans.     The  Gen- 


A  Sad  Mistake.  179 

eral  had  given,  it  appeared,  this  affairs  into  the  hands  of  Col- 
onel   ,  to  whom  I  should  have  to  state  the  conditions  of 

the  officers.  I  told  Colonel  Leon  that  Madam  Baz  would  go 
with  me  to  Porfirio  Diaz  next  day  herself.  He  insisted,  how- 
ever, on  my  seeing  the  Colonel,  and  we  drove  to  his  head- 
quarters in  Tacubaya. 

The  Colonel  expected  me  ;  but  when  I  told  him  that  I 
would  come  next  day  with  Madame  Baz,  he  permitted  me  to 
return  to  Mexico,  where  I  had  promised  to  be  before  evening.' 

Meanwhile  it  had  become  dark,  and  when  I,  with  my  maid 
and  Jimmy,  approached  the  garita,  the  sentinel  called  out, 
'  Who  goes  there  ?'  In  my  surprise  I  made  a  very  sad  mistake, 
for  instead  of  answering  '  Amigo  '  I  very  resolutely  called  out 
'  Enemigo  !'  The  sentinel  answered  at  once  by  a  shot,  but  the 
bullet  whizzed  harmlessly  past  us.  As  I  was,  however,  afraid 
of  a  more  effective  repetition  of  the  dose,  I  sought  shelter  be- 
hind the  arches  of  the  aqueduct  which  runs  there,  and  Mar- 
garita, frightened  out  of  her  wits,  knelt  down  and  prayed  to  all 
the  saints  of  the  almanac. 

To  make  them  understand  at  the  garita  .that  I  was  by  no 
means  an  '  enemigo,'  I  called  to  the  soldiers,  and  cried  out, 
'  Viva  Maximiliano  !''  This  time  old  Colonel  Campos  heard 
me,  and  came  cut  to  fetch  us.  He  was  an  old  acquaintance 
of  mine,  and  he  had  promised  to  wait  for  me  at  the  garita,  but 
expected  me  sooner.  He  was  quite  distressed  that  one  of  his 
soldiers  should  have  fired  on  me. 

When  I  went  next  morning  to  Madame  Baz,  she  said  that 
she  must  wait  until  two  o'clock  p.m,  when  she  should  hear 
from  her  husband.  Returning  at  that  hour  to  her  house,  she 
told  me  that  her  husband  had  been  ordered  that  night  to  go  to 
Escobedo,  and  that  she  therefore  could  not  accompany  me ; 
she  would,  however,  send  a  messenger  to  Porfirio  Diaz,  with  a 
note  stating  that  I  was  really  deputed  by  the  Prussian  minister 
and  foreign  offfcers.  I  tried  hard  to  induce  her  to  go  with  me,  but 
she  would  not.  I  therefore  had  to  go  alone.  Colonel  Leon 
and  the  others  w^aited  for  me  with  an  escort,  to  bring  me  and 
Madame  Baz  to  Porfirio  Diaz. 

'  As  I  had  not  changed  my  dress  for  three  days,  and  was  to 
go  on  horseback  to  head-quarters,  which  were  several  leagues 
from  Tacubaya,  I  went  to  the  house  of  Madame  Hube.  As  I 
did  not  tell  her  what  I  was  about,  she  was  very  angry  with  me. 


180  Ten   Years  of  my  Life. 

for  the  rrosl  absurd  reports  about  my  queer  doings  had  reached 
her  ear.  Much  as  I  regretted  the  displeasure  of  that  dear, 
kind  soul,  I  thought  it  better  to  let  her  think  for  awhile  what 
she  pleased,  and  told  her  only  that  I  was  going  to  head-quarters, 
on  which  she  informed  me  that  I  should  find  Mr.  Hube  there. 
Colonel  Leon  kindly  lent  me  his  handsome  black  Mexican 
horse,  and  I  soon  arrived  at  the  village  of  San  Guadalup. 
There,  at  the  head-quarters  of  the  Liberal  general,  fifty  persons 
•at  least  waited  to  see  him  ;  amongst  them  I  saw  Mr.  Hube 
who  looked  on  me  with  a  very  serious  face.  When,  however, 
I  told  him  that  I  came  as  deputed  by  the  foreign  officers  to 
treat  about  the  surrender  under  certain  conditions,  and  re- 
quested him  to  be  my  interpreter  with  Porfirio  Diaz,  his  man- 
ner suddenly  changed,  and  he  praised  me  beyond  my  merit. 
I  sent  in  my  card,  and  was  immediately  admitted. 

The  General  is  a  man  of  meduun  height,  with  a  rather  hand- 
some face,  and  brilliant,  dark,  and  very  intelligent  eyes.  He 
wore  a  blue  cut-away  coat  with  brass  buttons,  dark  blue 
trousers,  and  high  boots,  fie  received  me  very  politely,  and 
shook  hands  with  me.  He  said  that  he  had  been  informed  by 
his  officers  that  I  had  to  oft'er  some  condition  from  the  foreign 
troops  in  Mexico  for  surrender,  and  that  he  would  hear  what 
they  had  to  say.  I  asked  whether  he  had  received  a  letter 
from  Madame  Baz,  and  he  said  he  had,  but  of  course  wanted 
more  detailed  propositions. 

Mr.  Hube  then  spoke  to  him,  and  did  it  with  much  feeling 
and  in  a  most  creditable  manner.  He  implored  the  general  to 
agree  to'the  conditions,  which  would  end  at  once  all  bloodshed  ; 
he  pointed  out  to  him  all  the  consequences  and  advantages  of 
such  a  course,  and  the  old  gentleman  felt  so  much  all  that  he 
said  that  he  had  tears  in  his  eyes. 

The  General  did  not  like  the  proposed  armistice  for  seven 
days,  and,  as  I  ascertained  at  a  later  period,  did  not  believe 
me.  He  was  convinced  that  I  only  wanted  to  go  to  Queretaro 
to  carry  messages  from  the  garrison  of  Mexico,  which  might 
end  with  a  plan  to  attack  the  Liberals.  I  cannot  wonder  that 
the  General  thought  so,  for  he  knew  what  Madame  Baz  was  in 
the  habit  of  doing,  and  believed  that  1  was  engaged  in  the  same 
manner  in  the  cause  of  the  Emperor.  As  to  Marquez,  he  was 
perfectly  certain  that  he  would  employ  the  armis^'^^^  in  fortify- 
ing the  city. 


Return  to  Mexico.  181 

The  General  therefore  answered  that  it  was  beyond  his 
power  to  make  any  promises  in  reference  to  the  Emperor  or 
tfre  troops  in  Queretaro.  He  commanded  only  one  half  of  the 
army,  and  could  only  treat  about  Mexico.  He  would  not  ac- 
cept the  surrender  of  that  city  under  any  conditions  ;  he  was 
sure  to  take  it,  and  would  not  suffer  Marquez  and  others  to 
escape  who  ought  to  be  hung.  If,  however,  the  foreign  troops 
would  come  out  and  surrender,  he  would  grant  them  life  and 
liberty,  and  everything  they  could  carry  with  them  except  arms. 
He  would  take  diem  at  the  expense  of  the  Government  to  any 
port  they  desired,  in  order  to  return  to  Europe.  If,  however, 
1  was  determined  to  go  to  Queretaro,  he  would  give  me  a  pass 
and  a  letter  to  Escobedo,  to  whom  he  must  leave  it  whether 
he  would  permit  me  to  enter  that  city  or  not. 

It  was  about  four  o'clock  p.m.,  and  after  having  taken  a  cup 
of  coffee  with  the  General,  I  mounted  my  horse  to  return  to 
Mexico,  in  order  to  hear  what  the  foreign  officers  had  to  answer 
to  the  propositions  of  Diaz.  As  it  was  broad  daylight,  and  the 
garita  1  came  from  was  about  four  miles  from  Guadalupcj  1 
resolved  to  enter  Mexico  by  the  Garita  de  Guadalupe.  An 
escort,  led  by  an  officer,  accompanied  me  as  far  as  they  could 
venture,  and  fixing  my  white  handkerchief  to  my  riding- whip  I 
rode  at  a  gallop  towards  the  garita. 

When  I  passed  a  little  bridge  in  front  of  the  fortification,  so 
close  to  it  that  I  could  distinguish  the  faces  of  the  soldiers, 
the  sentinel  fired  a  shot  at  me,  which  1  took  as  a  hint  to  stop. 
I  therefore  stopped,  expecting  that  the  officer  would  send  out 
some  men  to  examine  me.  I  saw  them  line  the  breastwork, 
but  had  no  idea  what  they  were  about,  when  suddenly  they 
fired  a  volley  at  me.  The  bullets  whizzed  round  my  head,  one 
even  grazing  my  hair,  others  striking  the  ground  around  my 
horse.  At  this  I  was  more  angry  than  frightened,  for  it  was  so 
stupid  to  fire  at  a  single  woman — as  if  I  could  have  stormed 
their  battery  !  My  first  impulse  was  to  rush  upon  the  cow- 
ards, and  send  my  whip  round  their  long  ears  ;  but  when  I 
heard  behind  me  the  clatter  of  the  hoofs  of  my  escort,  who 
advanced  to  my  assistance,  and  saw  the  soldiers  in  the  battery 
reload  their  guns  in  great  harry,  I  would  not  endanger  others, 
and  turned  round. 

My  little  black  Mexican  horse  darted  off  like  an  arrow,  and 
I  bent  my  head  down  to  his  neck.     The  wretches  sent  another 


182  Ten   Years  of  my  Life. 

volley  after  me,  but  fortunately  they  did  not  wound  either  me 
or  my  horse. 

*As  I  heard  afterwards  the  battery  was  manned  with  raw  %-e- 
cruits — Indians — who  did  not  know  anything  about  the  mean- 
ing of  the  white  handkerchief  attached  to  my  riding-whip,  and 
when  I  came  on  the  officer  commanding  was  just  talking  a 
drink.  Marquez  heard  that  they  had  fired  on  a  flag  of  truce, 
without  knowing,  however,  that  it  was  I,  and  the  officer  was 
punished. 

Twentv-five  men  and  five  or  six  Liberal  officers  came  to 
meet  me  ;  all  were  very  much  concerned,  and  would  scarcely  be- 
lieve that  I  had  not  been  wounded.  As  I  would  not  again  risk  a 
volley,  I  resolved  to  enter  the  garita  where  Colonel  Campos 
commanded,  and  General  Porfirio  Diaz  was  kind  enough  to 
give  me  an  escort  of  ten  men. 

Before,  however,  we  reached  the  garita  I  was  overtaken  by 
a  tremendous  thunderstorm  and  rain,  which  thoroughly 
drenched  me,  and,  instead  of  going  to  Mexico,  I  went  to  Tac- 
ubaya,  where  I  was  received  by  Madame  Hube  with  open 
arms,  for  her  husband  had  told  her  on  what  kind  of  adventures 
I  had  been  out. 

Next  day  (April  19)  was  Good  Friday,  when  no  horse,  mule, 
or  carriage  is  permitted  to  show  itself  in  the  city  of  Mexico. 
It  was  necessary  to  hear  the  opinion  of  Baron  Magnus  and  the 
colonels,  and  I  was  therefore  obliged  to  walk  many  miles  in 
the  heat  of  the  sun. 

I  saw  first  Baron  Magnus  and  afterwards  the  colonels,  and 
told  them  the  offer  of  Porfirio  Diaz,  but  they  said  they  could 
not  accept  it  without  first  knowing  the  will  of  the  Emperor.  I 
proposed  then  to  go  on  my  own  responsibility  to  Queretaro, 
but  Baron  Magnus  opposed  this,  and  would  not  even  consent 
to  my  leaving  Mexico  again.  He  wished  that  I  would  at  least 
remain  a  few  days,  hoping  that  we  might  hear  in  the  mean- 
while something  positive  from  Queretaro.  As  I  had  promised 
Porfirio  Diaz  to  return,  I  did  not  like  to  stay  so  long  in  Mexico, 
but  at  last  I  yielded  to  the  urgency  of  the  Baron.  The  latter 
seemed  to  be  afraid  that  Marquez  had  received  some  intelli- 
gence of  what  was  going  on,  and  that  I  might  be  arrested  on 
my  way. 

When  I  was  in  the  camp  of  the  Liberals,  Colonel  Leon  told 
me  that  he  had  under  his  charge  a  number  of  Imperialists, 


Confusion  in  Taciihaya.  183 

captured  at  San  Lorenzo,  who  were  destitute  even  of  food  and 
clothes,  and  were  in  a  most  miserable  condition.  If  I  could 
do  something  for  them  in  Mexico,  and  bring  them  some  clothes 
and  money,  he  most  readily  would  permit  me  to  deliver  both 
to  them  myself  Accordingly,  I  spoke  about  it  to  Baron  Mag- 
nus and  the  Austrian  officers,  and  we  collected  for  this  purpose 
one  hundred  dollars,  which  were  placed  in  my  hands. 

On  April  24,  in  the  morning,  the  minister  sent  his  carriage 
for  me,  and  I  drove  to  the  garita.  From  thence  I  went  to  the 
Casa  Colorada,  where  I  saw  Colonel  Leon,  and  informed  him 
that  I  had  some  money  for  the  foreign  prisoners.  He  led  me 
himself  into  the  castle  of  Chapultepec,  and  called  the  prison- 
ers in.  They  were  a  Captain  Rudolph  Sporrberger,  with  seve- 
ral sergeants — altogether  fifteen  persons.  They  had  scarcely 
any  clothes,  and  were  indeed  in  a  very  miserable  condition.  I 
gave  the  captain  twenty-five  dollars,  and  each  of  the  others 
five  dollars,  for  which  they  gave  me  a  receipt.  This  receipt  is 
still  in  my  possession,  to  prove  that  I  did  not  forget  my  com- 
mission. 

From  thence  I  went  to  Tacubaya.  By  the  manner  of  the  Libe- 
ral officers  and  soldiers  I  saw  that  there  was  something  wrong, 
and  when  I  came  to  the  house  of  Madame  Hube,  I  found 
them  all  in  tears  and  in  great  anxiety.  I  do  not  know  what 
had  happened  during  my  absence,  but  on  April  24  Porfirio 
Diaz  issued  an  order  that  all  persons  who  proposed  to  leave 
Mexico  under  the  pretext  of  negotiating  should  be  shot ;  and 
as  I  was  in  that  position,  they  saw  me  already  in  my  coffin. 

I  wanted  to  go  immediately  to  the  General,  in  order  to  ex- 
cuse myself  for  my  long  absence ;  but  Madame  Hube  would 
not  let  me  go,  and  detained  me  for  several  hours.  Whilst  I 
was  thus  detained,  a  carriage-and-four  drove  up  before  the  door, 
and  an  officer  informed  me  that  he  had  orders  to  take  me 
directly  to  the  head-quarters  of  the  General.  Of  course  there 
was  great  lamentation  at  INLadame  Hube's,  but  I  was  obliged 
to  obey ;  and  after  having  packed  up  a  few  clothes  I  entered 
the  carriage,  together  with  Margarita  and  Jimmy. 

When  we  arrived  at  head-quarters,  an  adjutant  of 
Porfirio  Diaz  informed  me  that  I  was  to  leave  the  republic  of 
Mexico  immediately,  and  handed  me  a  passport,  requesting 
me  to  name  any  port  from  which  I  would  wish  to  sail,  to 
which  I  should  be  brought  by  an  escort. 


184  Ten  Years  of  ray  Life. 

The  whole  arrangement  did  not  at  all  suit  me,  and  I  made 
up  my  mind  to  mar  it.  I  thTerefore  desired  to  see  General 
Porfirio  Diaz,  as  there  must  be  a  mistake  somewhere,  which  I 
wanted  to  explain.  The  General,  however,  would  not  seeane, 
and  the  adjutant  insisted  on  my  setting  off.  I  declared,  then, 
that  1  would  not  go  by  my  own  will.  They  might  shoot  me, 
or  put  me  in  irons,  but  they  should  not  compel  me  to  leave 
the  country. 

My  resolution  embarassed  them  very  much,  and  they  were 
at  a  loss  what  to  do ;  but  I  stayed  from  six  o'clock  p.m  to 
twelve  o'clock  at  head-quarters,  waiting  to  see  the  General. 
At  last  I  was  lodged  in  a  private  house  with  a  Mexican  family, 
who  were  very  kind,  but  a  sentmel  was  placed  before  my  door. 

On  April  26,  in  the  morning,  my  carriage  came  again,  and 
the  officer  who  was  to  escort  me  insisted  on  my  leaving.  I 
did  not,  however,  stir,  but  sent  my  compliments  to  General 
Porfirio  Diaz,  requesting  him  to  suffer  me  to  go  to  Queretaro. 
To  this,  however,  he  sent  me  a  refusal,  and  I  remained  reso- 
lutely where  I  was. 

In  the  afternoon  came  Madame  Hube  with  some  more 
clothes  for  me,  and  also  General  Baz,  who  had  returned  from 
Queretaro,  and  who  was  a  great  friend  of  the  Hubes.  He 
was  kind  enough  to  go  to  the  Commander  General,  to  inquire 
what  made  him  so  severe  against  me. 

Now  we  heard  the  reason  of  all  this  harsh  proceeding 
against  me.  Profirio  said  that  I  had  broken  my  word  ;  that  I 
had  tried  to  bribe  his  officers  with  money  and  fair  words, 
which  was  a  great  crime ;  and  that  I  was  too  dangerous  a 
person  to  be  permitted  to  remain  in  Mexico. 

General  Baz  arranged  afiairs,  however,  and  wrung  from 
Porfirio  Diaz  permission  for  me  to  go  to  Queretaro  to  Esco- 
bedo,  but  he  would  not  give  me  an  escort.  Escobedo  might 
do  with  me  as  he  liked,  either  permit  me  to  enter  Queretaro 
or  send  me  farther  on. 

General  Baz  was  a  very  agreeable  man,  who  looked  and 
behaved  more  like  a  Frenchman  than  a  Mexican.  Though 
very  friendly,  his  manner  was  dignified  ;  and  he  was  equally 
liked  by  both  parties.  He  was  extremely  kind  to  me,  and 
prepared  everything  to  facilitate  my  journey  to  Queretaro. 
He  gave  me  thirty-seven  letters  of  recommendation  to 
owners  of  haciendas,  post-masters,  hotel-keepers,  and  officers. 


Take  leave  of  Madame  Euhe.  185 

Mr.  Smith,  a  merchant,  and  director  or  superintendent  of  the 
railroad,  gave  me  four  very  good  mules  and  his  coachman, 
and  I  got  also  a  very  bright  yellow  superannuated  fiacre  from 
Tacubaya. 

The  road  between  Mexico  and  Queretaro  was  much  in- 
fested by  robbers,  and  the  journey,  which  required  about  four 
days,  was  rather  hazardous.  However,  my  good  fortune 
assisted  me.  A  gentleman  belonging  to  the  Liberal  party, 
Mr.  Para,  who  had  travelled  three  days  in  order  to  speak  with 
Porfirio  Diaz  without  success,  and  who  was  travelling  home, 
volunteered  to  escort  me,  and  I  accepted  this  offer  with  the 
more  pleasure  as  he  had  with  him  a  mounted  armed  servant 
and  a  coachman.  Porfirio  Diaz  had  nothing  to  say  against 
his  going  with  me. 

With  many  tears  I  took  leave  of  Madame  Hube,  and  com- 
menced my  journey  on  April  27.  The  whole  party  consisted 
of  my  escort,  his  armed  servant,  two  unarmed  coachmen,  my 
maid,  and  Jimmy.  1  had  my  little  seven-shooter  revolver  and 
only  three  '  ounces  '  in  my  pocket. 

The  letters  which  General  Baz  had  given  me  proved  to  be 
of  great  value.  I  was  received  everywhere  with  the  utmost 
kindness  and  hospitality,  and  could  not  have  been  treated 
better  had  I  been  a  queen. 

In  the  morning  before  sunrise  I  left  San  Francisco,  and 
when  I  had  gone  a  little  way,  and  the  sun  was  just  rising,  1 
saw  some  dark  form  hanging  on  a  tree.  On  looking  out  of  the 
carriage  I  discovered  to  my  horror  that  it  was  a  Liberal  officer, 
his  head  and  face  covered  by  a  black  cap,  and  blood  trickling 
down  his  body.  With  disgust  I  turned  my  head  away  to  the 
other  side.  There  I  saw  hanging  on  another  tree  another  ofii- 
cer,  presenting  a  still  more  ghastly  spectacle.  These  two  men 
were  a  Liberal  lieutenant-colonel  and  a  major,  who  had  com- 
mitted a  crime  against  a  young  girl,  and  when  her  exasperated 
father  tried  to  revenge  his  child,  they  killed  him  and  cut  out 
his  tongue.  According  to  the  Mexican  custom,  they  were 
shot  on  the  spot  where  they  had  committed  the  crime,  and 
hung  to  a  tree  for  a  time  as  a  warning  example.  For  a  long 
time  I  could  not  get  rid  of  the  horrible  impression  which  this 
sight  made  on  me. 


.SG 


CHAPTER  XII. 

Arrival  before  Queretavo — Visit  to  E?cobedo's  head-qnai-ters — One  who 
had  'known  me  intimately' — ^Journey  to  San  Luis  Potosi — Lieut. - 
Colonel  Aspirez — An  audience  with  President  Juarez — M.  Iglesia — ■ 
The  fall  of  Queretaro — The  Emperor  and  my  husband  prisoners — ■ 
Journey  to  Queretaro — San  Teresita — My  first  interviev/  with  the 
Emperor — His  prison — I  arrange  a  meeting  between  the  Emperor  and 
General  Escobedo — What  happened  in  the  Hacienda  de  Hercules — 
General  Refugio  Gonzales  a  INIarplot — The  convent  of  the  Capuchins — 
The  Emperor  forced  to  remain  in  a  grave  vault — Colonel  Villanueva. 

When  I  arrived  on  the  height  of  the  Cuesta  China  I  could 
overlook  the  whole  of  Queretaro  ;  and  from  that  city  they  had 
also  noticed  my  bright  yellow  carriage-and-four  and  escort,  and 
took  me  for  Juarez,  as  I  was  afterwards  told- 

Little  as  I  understand  about  military  art,  it  seemed  to  me 
most  injudicious  to  make  a  place  like  Queretaro  as  it  were  the 
keystone  of  tlie  whole  war.  The  town  is  surrounded  by  hills, 
which  are  most  favourable  to  the  establishment  of  batteries,  and 
whence  every  street  and  every  house  can  be  seen.  It  is  a 
regular  mousetrap. 

As  I  drove  down-  the  hill  to  the  Hacienda  de  Herecules, 
which  belonged  to  M.  Rubio,  to  whom  one  of  Generaal  Baz's 
letters  was  addressed,  I  every  moment  expected  that  I  should 
be  fired  at  by  the  guns  from  the  city,  for  I  was  everywhere 
within  range. 

The  head-quarters  of  General  Escobedo  vv'ere  on  the  othef 
side  of  the  Rio  Blanca,  on  the  slope  of  a  hill  called  La  Cantera. 
As  I  had  a  letter  for  him,  and  was  anxious  to  see  him,  I  dressed 
at  once  to  go  there  on  horseback.  I  procured  a  horse,  but  as 
there  was  no  lady's  saddle  to  be  had,  I  had  to  ride  on  a  com- 
mon wooden  Mexican  saddle,  though  lady  fashion,  which  was 


General  Escohedo.  187 

by  no  mean?^  ngreeable.  The  gentleman  who  had  accompanied 
me  from  Mexico  had  gone  before  me  to  head-quarters,  and 
announced  my  arrival.  He  had  been  made  as  it  were  respon- 
sible for  me,  for  I  was  a  kind  of  prisoner. 

When  I  stopped  and  sent  in  my  name  to  the  General,  a 
young  fair-haired  captain  came  from  among  a  group  of  officers 
standing  about,  and  addressed  me  as  an  old  acquaintance  from 
the  United  States,  though  I  did  not  remember  his  face.  This 
was  a  Captain  Enkilig,  who  had  served  in  the  German  division 
in  the  United  States  army,  and  who  had  once  escorted  me 
when  I  visited  General  Blenker's  camp.  This  person  had,  as 
I  was  informed  afterwards,  boasted  that  '  he  knew  me  inti- 
mately,' though,  as  I  said  before,  I  did  not  even  remember  his 
face.  He  behaved  on  a  later  occasion  in  the  most  contemptible 
manner,  and  seemed  to  be  held  in  very  little  esteem  by  his 
own  comrades  and  by  the  General  himself;  for  when  he  offered 
himself  as  an  interpreter  Escohedo  declined  his  services,  and 
sent  for  a  Mexican  officer,  who  spoke  English  very  well.  This 
captain  had  been  put  under  arrest  by  Escobedo,  as  at  the  cap- 
ture of  Queretaro  he  with  his  men  plundered  private  houses, 
and  appropriated  private  property  to  himself. 

When  on  one  occasion  I  requested  Escobedo  to  give  me  an 
officer  to  escort  me  to  my  house,  he  sent  for  this  captain  ;  but 
I  refused  him  with  great  indignation,  and  the  captain  retired  in 
confusion.  Escobedo  had  sent  for  this  man  on  purpose  to 
shame  him. 

General  Escobedo  received  me  at  once  in  a  very  small  and 
most  miserable  tent,  propped  up  with  sticks,  furnished  merely 
with  a  table  made  of  raw  boards,  and  some  wooden  chests  as  a 
seat.  The  General  wore  a  uniform  similar  to  that  of  Pornrio 
Diaz,  only  with  rather  more  lace  and  brass  buttons.  He 
received  me  very  kindly,  and  I  told  him  I  had  heard  that  my 
husband  was  wounded,  and  requested  his  permission  to  go  into 
the  city.  The  General  said  he  did  not  believe  that  my  hus- 
band was  wounded,  and  that  he  could  not  give  me  the  required 
permission.  All  he  could  do  was  to  give  me  a  letter  to  Presi- 
dent Juarez  in  San  Luis  Petosi,  who  perhaps  might  grant  me 
what  I  wished.  He  said  he  knew  my  husband  very  well,  and 
complimented  me  very  much  about  him,  observing  that  he  was 
an  extremely  brave  officer,  as  he  had  experienced  to  his  great 
damage.     He  promised  to  treat  him  kindly  if  he  should  ever 


188  Ten   Years  of  my  Life. 

fall  into  his  hands,  and  that  if  he  were  wounded  I  should  be 
permitted  to  nurse  him. 

The  General  left  it  to  me  whether  I  would  remain  at  M, 
Rubio's  until  the  next  diligence,  or  whether  I  would  go  with 
that  which  was  to  start  next  morning.  After  reflecting  that  my 
staying  before  Querataro  was  of  no  use,  I  desired  to  go  next 
morning  to  San  Luis  Potosi. 

The  diligence  started  some  leagues  from  Queretaro.  When 
I  arrived  at  its  place  of  starting,  before  three  o'clock  in  the 
morning,  I  met  there  Lieut-Colonel  Aspirez,  who  told  me  that 
he  had  been  ordered  by  General  Escobedo  to  escort  me  to 
San  Luis  Potosi  and  to  the  President.  He  had  already  taken 
tickets  for  myself  and  maid,  and  we  started  about  three  o'clock 

A.M. 

After  a  journey  of  three  days  we  arrived  in  San  Luis  Potosi, 
and  I  delivered  my  letter  from  General  Baz  to  the  military 
governor  of  that  place,  by  whom  I  was  quartered  in  beautiful 
rooms  in  a  house  that  belonged  to  one  of  the  Imperialist  party. 

With  Lieut-Colonel  Aspirez  I  then  went  to  see  the  Presi- 
dent. When  I  came  to  his  palace  I  was  received  by  one  of 
his  aide-de-camps,  who  led  me  by  the  hand,  as  if  he  was  lead- 
ing me  to  a  country-dance,  to  a  large  reception-room.  There 
the  aide-de-camp  made  a  tremendous  bow,  and  left  me  with 
Aspirez. 

After  a  little  while  President  Juarez  entered,  accompanied  by 
M.  Iglesia,  one  of  his  ministers,  who  spoke  English  perfectly 
well. 

Juarez  was  a  man  a  little  under  the  middle  size,  with  a  very 
dark  complexioned  Indian  face,  which  was  not  disfigured,  but, 
on  the  contrary,  made  more  interesting,  by  a  very  large  scar 
across  it.  He  had  very  black  piercing  eyes,  and  gave  one  the 
impression  of  being  a  man  who  reflects  much,  and  deliberates 
long  and  carefully  before  acting.  He  wore  high  English 
collars  and  a  black  neck-tie,  and  was  dressed  in  black  broad- 
cloth. 

The  President  gave  me  his  hand,  led  me  to  the  sofo,  on 
which  Jimmy  had  alread}''  established  himself,  and  said  he 
would  listen  to  what  I  had  to  say. 

M.  Iglesia,  who  acted  as  interpreter,  looked  more  like  a 
dark-haired  German  with  spectacles  than  a  Mexican.  He  was 
in  appearance  and  manners  a  thorough  gentleman,  who  showed 
much  sympathy  in  his  benevolent  face. 


Audience  luitk  President  Juarez.  189 

I  told  M.  Juarez  all  that  had  happened  in  Mexico,  and  what 
I  intended  to  do  in  order  to  bring  the  horrible  bloodshed  to 
an  end,  and  requested  him  to  permit  me  to  go  to  Queretaro. 

The  President  said  that  he  had  not  received  any  details 
from  General  Porfirio  Diaz,  but  he  supposed  that  I  must  have 
done  something  very  dangerous  as  I  had  been  ordered  so 
suddenly  to  leave  the  country.  He  could  not  give  me  an 
answer  until  he  was  better  informed.  If  I  would  return  with 
Lieut.-Colonel  Aspirez  to  M.  Rubio,  and  wait  there  for  his 
answer,  I  was  at  liberty  to  do  so,  or  to  remain  in  San  Luis. 

I  told  him  that  I  would  reflect  on  it,  and  give  him  an  answer 
next  morning.  The  President  gave  me  his  arm,  and  accom- 
panied me  through  all  the  rooms  to  the  head  of  the  staircase, 
where  he  dismissed  we  with  a  low  bow. 

As  I  could  not  get  permission  to  enter  Queretaro,  I  thought 
it  better  to  remain  near  the  President,  where  I  should  hear 
always  the  freshest  news,  and  be  on  the  spot  to  act  accordingly. 
When,  however,  Lieut.-Colonel  Aspirez  had  left,  and  the  day 
approached  when  the  diligence  was  to  start  again,  I  changed 
my  mind,  and  resolved  to  return  to  M.  Rubio.  Accordingly; 
I  went  again  to  the  President  and  told  him  so,  but  he  desired 
me  to  remain  at  San  Luis,  as  Queretaro  must  fall  in  a  kw  days. 
I  remained  here  therefore  as  was  required,  but  heard  no  news 
until  the  loth  of  May,  when  the  ringing  of  all  the  bells  and 
the  firing  of  guns  announced  some  great  event. 

The  next  morning  a  gentleman  called  upon  me,  wh  ^  told 
me  that  Queretaro  had  been  sold  to  the  Liberals  for  three 
thousand  'ounces,'  by  a  certain  Colonel  Lopez  and  a  man 
from  San  Luis,  Jablowski ;  that  the  Emperor  was  a  prisoner, 
and  my  husband  wounded.  Of  course  this  news  distressed  me 
very  much,  and  I  immediately  went  to  the  President  to  obtain 
his  permission  to  go  to  Queretaro.  He  was,  however,  at  a 
dinner-party,  and  I  was  not  able  to  see  him.  Under  ^ese 
circumstances  I  thought  it  best  to  travel  without  his  permis- 
sion. This  I  did,  and  I  arrived  without  any  accident  at 
Queretaro  on  the  19th  of  May,  four  days  after  the  fall  of  that 
city. 

I  alighted  at  the  Hotel  de  Diligencias,  where  my  husband 
was  well  known.  It  was  between  six  and  seven  o'clock  in  the 
evening,  and  too  late  to  see  General  Escobedo,  who  had  his 
quarters  in  the  Hacienda  de  Hercules,  which  is  some  distance 
rom  Queretaro. 


190  Ten   Years  of  my  Life. 

As  I  could  not  get  a  carriage  next  morning,  I  was  obliged 
to  go  on  horseback.  A  lady»'s  saddle  was  not  to  be  had,  and 
as  some  colonel's  horse  was  just  saddled  at  the  door  and 
offered  to  me,  I  rode  on  it  to  the  General's  head-quarters,  fol- 
lowed by  an  Indian  servant. 

The  General  received  me  very  kindly,  shook  hands  with  me, 
and  said  that  he  was  glad  to  see  me.  I  asked  him  to  give  me 
an  order  to  see  my  husband  and  the  Emperor.  He  sent  at 
once  for  Colonel  Villanueva  of  his  staff,  and  requested  him  ta 
accompany  me  to  the  prison. 

Before  going  to  the  prison,  I  went  to  the  hotel  to  change  my 
riding-habit  for  another  dress,  and  then  went  with  the  colonel 
to  the  Convent  San  Teresita.  We  reached  the  convent  be- 
tween ten  and  eleven  o'clock  a.m.,  crossed  a  yard,  and  went  up 
a  very  dirty  and  extremely  bad-smelling  staircase.  This  and 
the  noise  everywhere  in  the  house  made  me  quite  dizzy. 

We  now  entered  a  small  dirty  room,  where  several  officers 
were  lying  about  on  '  cocos '  on  the  floor,  all  looking  very  neg- 
lected. On  asking  for  my  husband,  a  polite  little  gentleman, 
M.  Blasio,  informed  me  the  Prince  was  with  the  Emperor,  and 
would  return  directly.  He  had  scarcely  said  so  when  my 
husband  came.  He  was  not  shaved,  wore  a  collar  several  days 
old,  and  looked  altogether  as  if  he  had  emerged  from  a  dust- 
bin, though  not  worse  than  the  rest  of  his  comrades.  To  see 
him  again  under  these  circumstances  affected  me  very  much, 
and  I  wept  and  almost  fainted  when  he  held  me  in  his  arms. 

My  husband  now  left  me  to  inform  the  Emperor  of  my  arri- 
val, who  told  him  that  he  should  be  pleased  to  see  me.  The 
Emperor  had  suffered  before  the  surrender  very  much  from 
dysentery,  and  v/as  sick  in  bed,  but  in  such  circumstances  all 
the  ceremonies  which  make  social  life  uncomfortable  are  at  an 
end.  0  Salm  cautioned  me  not  to  speak  of  the  death  of  Gene- 
ral Mendez,  who  had  been  shot  a  few  hours  ago. 

I  shall  never  forget  this  interview  with  the  Emperor,  with 
whom  I  had  never  yet  spoken.  The  Empress  had  left  Mexico 
several  months  before  my  arrival,  and  ladies  were  not  received 
at  Court.  How  our  meeting  at  Chapultepec  was  prevented  I 
have  said  before. 

I  found  him  in  a  miserable  bare  room,  in  bed,  looking  very 
sick  and  pale.  He  received  me  with  the  utmost  kindness, 
kissed, my  hand,  and  pressed  it  in  his,  and  told  me  how  glad 


Anxiety  about  the  EiniJeror.  191 

he  was  that  I  had  come.  As  he  had  not  heard  yet  anything 
reliable  of  Marquez  and  IMexico,  he  was  highly  interested  with 
everything  I  told  him,  and  very  indignant  at  the  behaviour  of 
Marquez,  who  assumed  rights  and  an  air  of  command  which 
could  not  be  allowed  to  any  subject.  He  distributed  decora- 
tions and  titles  as  if  he  had  been  the  Emperor  himself. 

I  mentioned  my  negotiations  with  Porfirio  Diaz  and  the 
colonels  in  Mexico,  and  m5^  visit  in  San  Luis  Potosi,  as  also 
my  interview  with  Juarez,  which  all  interested  the  Emperor 
very  much.. 

Looking  around,  and  considering  the  bad  state  of  health  of 
the  Emperor,  I  was  very  anxious  that  he  should  soon  get  out 
of  that  disagreeable  position,  and  asked  him  whether  he  had 
yet  done  anything  in  this  respect.  Escobedo  had  paid  him  a 
visit,  but  nothing  had  been  said  about  the  intentions  of  the 
Liberals.  I  proposed  to  speak  with  Escobedo  in  the  name  of 
the  Emperor,  and  to  try  whether  I  could  not  bring  him  to 
reasonable  terms.  I  would  induce  him  to  come  and  see  his 
Majesty,  or,  if  the  latter  was  well  enough  to  go  out,  to  receive 
him  at  some  other  place.  The  first  thing,  however,  was  to 
make  the  Emperor  and  my  husband  a  little  more  comfortable, 
and  especially  to  buy  some  fresh  linen  for  them,  which  they 
greatly  wanted  and  missed  very  much. 

On  going  at  once  to  see  Escobedo,  I  found  him  in  a  very 
good  humour,  as  he  expected  the  arrival  of  his  sisters,  whom 
he  had  not  seen  for  several  years.  He  said  that  he  could  not 
go  out  that  day,  but  that  the  Emperor  would  be  welcome  if  he 
would  come  to  see  him,  accompanied  by  myself  and  my  hus- 
band. Whilst  Colonel  A^illanueva  went  to  procure  a  carriage 
I  went  out  to  purchase  some  linen,  and  when  that  was  done 
we  returned  to  San  Teresita. 

The  Emperor  having  got  out  of  bed,  and  giving  me  his  arm, 
my  husband  also  following  with  Colonel  Viilanueva,  we  went 
down  the  staircase  into  the  street,  where  we  found  the  hand- 
some carriage  of  M.  Rubio  and  an  escort  of  four  men.  On  our 
way  down  the  prisoners  had  come  out  to  see  the  Emperor,  and 
all  greeted  him  with  much  love  and  respect. 

Had  the  Emperor  had  a  correct  idea  of  the  danger  of  his 
position,  which  then  and  much  later  was  by  no  means  the  case, 
he  would  perhaps  have  thought  sooner  of  escape,  and  not 
missed    so    many   very   favourable    opportunities  which  were 


192  Ten  Years  of  my  Life. 

offered  him.  I  am  sure,  had  we  employed  money,  the  Empe- 
ror might  have  escaped  whilst  on  this  drive  to  the  Hacienda 
de  Hercules,  and  the  whole  escort  would  have  gone  with  him. 
He  was,  however,  very  far  from  thinking  his  life  in  danger, 
though  the  fate  of  Emperor  Iturbide  might  have  taught  him 
that  a  bare  title  is  no  protection  in  Mexico. 

Arrived  at  the  Hacienda  de  Hercules  we  entered  a  large  and 
fine  garden,  with  a  fountain,  near  which  were  assembled  a  great 
many  Liberal  officers  and  other  gentlemen,  who  greeted  the 
Emperor,  who  had  me  on  his  arm,  with  very  low  bows. 

General  Escobedo  advanced,  and  offered  his  hand  to  the 
Emperor.  We  went  then  to  the  right,  in  a  wide  walk,  where 
seats  were  placed  for  us.  We  commenced  the  conversation 
about  indifferent  objects  ;  but  this  was  rendered  difficult  by  two 
bands,  which  made  a  horrible  noise,  drowning  our  voices. 
The  Emperor  told  General  Escobedo  that  he  had  instructed 
my  husband  to  make  some  propositions  in  his  name,  and  he 
and  Colonel  Villanueva  retired  to  arrange  that  business. ^ 

We  remained  until  nearly  dark  at  the  head-quarters  of  Esco- 
bedo, who  offered  me  some  refreshments,  which  were,  however, 
decHned ;  and  we  returned  to  San  Teresita'as  we  had  come. 
The  Emperor  was  iimch  depressed,  which  was  owing  to  his 
weak  state  of  health.  I  remember  that  day  always  with  emo- 
tion, and  that  I  was  the  last  lady  the  Emperor  had  on  his  a^m. 

All  night  long  there  was  a  most  disagreeable  noise  in  San 
Teresita,  which  prevented  him  from  sleeping,  and  he  was  very 
desirous  to  have  a  separate  house  for  himseli  and  his  house- 
hold officers.  I  was  anxious  to  satisfy  the  wish  of  the  Emperor, 
and  drove  again  to  Escobedo,  who  most  readily  acceded  to  it, 
and  procured  next  morning  a  very  handsomely-furnished  house 
for  that  purpose.  One  half  of  it  was  intended  for  the  Emperor, 
the  other  half  for  the  use  of  the  imprisoned  Generals. 

These  good  intentions  of  Escobedo  were,  however,  not 
carried  out,  for  General  Refugio  Gonzales,  formerly  a  robber, 
who  was  charged  with  the  guard  over  the  prisoners,  reproached 
the  General  for  wanting  to  treat  Maximilian  as  a  prince  ;  that 
this  was  against  the  instructions  of  the  Government,  and  that 
he  would  no*;  be  responsible  for  the  security  of  the  prisoners  if 

My  Diary  in  Mexico,  &c.,  r5y  Felix  Salm-Salm.     Richard  Bently, 
London.     1868.     Vol  i   p.  222. 


San  Teresita.  193 

they  were  placed  in  a  private  house.  Escotedo  became  proba- 
bly soiViewhat  alarmed,  and  the  more  so  as  he  had  the  most 
convincing  proof  that  his  Government  was  resolved  to  use  the 
utmost  severity  towards  his  prisoners.  He  therefore  left  it  to 
Refugio  Gonzales  to  provide  other  quarters  for  the  Emperor 
and  the  Generals,  and  they  were  transferred  to  the  convent  of 
Capuchins.  The  Emperor  wished  me  to  accompany  him  on 
the  way  thither,  and  Colonel  Villanueva  went  to  M.  Rubio  to 
request  the  loan  of  his  carriage,  which  he  got  at  last,  after 
waiting  two  hours  for  it. 

When  the  Emperor  arrived  at  the  Capuchins,  and  was  shown 
his  room,  he  stopped  on  the  threshold,  saying,  '  Certainly  that 
cannot  be  my  room  ;  why,  this  is  a  vault  for  the  dead.  Indeed, 
this  is  a  bad  omen.' 

Villanueva  excused  himself  as  well  as  he  could,  and  went  to 
speak  to  Refugio  Gonzales,  but  that  man  said,  '  Yes,  that  is  his 
room,  and  he  must  sleep  here,  at  least  this  night,  in  order  to 
remind  him  that  his  time  is  at  hand.' 

It  was  indeed  the  pantheon,  or  burial-place  of  the  convent ; 
and  it  is  an  everlasting  shame  to  this  Mexican  Government  that 
they  could  permit  this  cruelty  to  their  distinguished  prisoner. 
I  was  indignant,  and  so  was  Colonel  Villanueva.  Escobedo 
was  informed  of  this  proceeding,  and  the  next  day  another 
room  was  provided,  from  which  the  Emperor  could  walk  into  a 
little  yard. 

Three  days  later  the  law  proceedings  against  the  Emperor 
commenced,  and  he  was  placed  in  solitary  confinement.  Colo- 
nel Villanueva  said  to  me  on  the  first  day,  '  The  thing  is  draw- 
ing now  to  a  close  nothing  can  save  the  Emperor  but  escape.' 


IJ-i* 


CHAPTER  XIIL 

My  plans  to  save  the  Emperor — What  Consul  Bahnsen  thought  of  them  — 
Visit  to  the  Emperor  at  midnight — A  letter  to  Juarez — Politeness  of 
Escobedo — Preparing  to  go  to  San  Luis — Consul  Bahnsen's  fear  justi- 
fied— His  sleeping  partner — Another  audience  with  Juarez — My  plead- 
ing for  delay  —Mr,  Iglesia  on  my  side — Victory — Return  to  Queretaro — 
A  wide-awake  partner  of  Mr.  Bahnsen — A  feirful  journey — How  I 
looked — Scene  on  my  arrival  in  Maximilian's  prison  described  by 
another  eye-witness, 

I  RETURNED  home  very  much  depressed ;  and  when  I  saw  Mr. 
Bahnsen,  who  had  arrived  from  San  Luis  and  whose  face  exhi- 
bited a  very  lugubrious  expression,  my  spirits  did  not  improve. 
All  that  night  I  did  not  sleep,  but  revolved  in  my  mind  inces- 
sently  the  question,  '  What  can  be  done  to  save  the  Emperor?' 
I  reflected  all  the  following  day,  and  when  Colonel  Villanueva 
and  Mr.  Bahnsen  called  towards  evening,  I  had  found  what  I 
had  wanted,  and  asked  them,  '  Who  will  go  to  San  Luis  to  ask 
Juarez  for  time  ?' 

Mr.  Bahnsen  shrugged  his  shoulders,  and  said,  *  Nobody 
will  go.  Ask  for  time  !  It  is  quite  useless.  You  do  not  know 
Juarez  ;  I  know  him  well.     That  idea  is  not  to  be  thought  of.* 

'  Well,  Colonel,'  I  said,  *  1  cannot  ask  you ;  but  I,  a  woman, 
will  go  ! ' 

'  You  ! '  said  Mr.  Bahnsen,  with  a  sarcastic  laugh. 

But  all  his  doubts  and  ridicule  did  not  influence  me  in  the 
least.  I  then  asked  the  Colonel,  '  Will  you  accompany  me  to 
Aspirez,  and  ask  him  for  permission  to  see  the  Emperor  this 
night  ? ' 

The  Colonel  v/as  willing.  Aspirez,  my  travelling  compa- 
nion on  my  first  journey  to  San  Luis,  was  now  '  fiscal,'  and  had 
the  Emperor  under  his  especial  charge.  , 


Visit  to  the  Emperor  at  Midnight.  195 

It  was  past  eleven  o'clock  p.m.  when  we  arrived  at  Aspirez's 
lodging,  and  he  was  already  in  bed  ;  but  Colonel  Villanueva 
awoke  him.  I  told  the  astonished  officer  that  I  wished  to  go 
again  to  San  Luis,  and  that  I  requested  his  permission  to  con- 
sult first  with  the  Emperor,  in  the  presence  of  Colonel  Vil- 
lanueva, which  was  readily  and  kindly  given. 

It  was  past  midnight  when  we  arrived  at  the  Capuchins. 
My  husband  was  asleep.  He  immediately  dressed,  but  was 
quite  frightened  at  my  sudden  appearance  in  the  middle  of  the 
night,  imagining  that  some  bad  news  had  brought  me  there. 
AVhen,  however,  he  heard  my  plan  he  declared  it  to  be  excel- 
lent, and  went  up  with  me  to  the  room  of  the  Emperor,  who 
since  his  separation  from  the  other  prisoners  had  seen  nobody 
except  his  doctor. 

The  Emperor  thanked  me  very  much,  and  approved  also  of 
my  idea.  Villanueva  advised  him  to  write  a  letter  to  Juarez, 
and  request  two  weeks'  time  to  prepare  his  defence,  and  to 
consult  with  lawyers  from  Mexico.  The  Emperor  consented, 
and  signed  a  letter  which  was  written  by  Villanueva  at  his  re- 
quest. This  letter  I  was  instructed  to  give  into  the  hands  of 
Juarez  himself,  and  if  I  could  not  do  so  not  to  part  with  it  at 
all.  As  I  wished  to  start  on  my  journey  immediately,  I  said 
good  night  to  the  poor  Emperor,  who  had  tears  in  "his  eyes.  I 
was  very  much  affected,  for  it  appeared  to  me  as  if  I  had  now 
seen  his  face  for  the  last  time. 

As  I  had  promised  to  give  the  letter  into  Juarez's  own  hands, 
and  was  afraid  that  difficulties  might  be  laid  in  the  way  of  my 
seeing  him,  I  thought  it  expedient  to  procure  from  Escobedo 
a  letter  of  authorization  to  the  President. 

It  was  past  one  o'clock  when  I  went  with  Villanueva  and 
my  maid  to  Escobedo's  quarters.  The  General  was  just  re- 
turning with  Colonel  Doria  from  some  place  of  amusement, 
and  I  found  him  fortunately  in  very  good  humour.  He  gave 
me  not  only  a  letter  to  Juarez,  but  also  granted  my  request  for 
an  order  to  take  the  mules  of  the  diligence,  with  which  I  re- 
turned to  my  hotel  to  prepare  for  the  journey,  for  which  Mr. 
Bahnsen  had  promised  to  lend  me  his  hght  carriage.  This 
order  of  Escobedo  was  indeed  quite  an  astonishing  thing,  for 
by  it  the  communication  between  Queretaro  and  San  Luis 
was  stopped  for  at  least  twelve  hours  for  the  public. 

Arrived  at  the  hotel  I  found  Mr.   Bahnsen,  who  retracted 


IDS  Ten   Years  of  my  Life. 

his  promise.  He  was  afraid  his  carriage  would  be  broken  to 
pieces  ;  he  called  ray  idea*  a-woman's  whim,  and  said  that  the 
whole  thing  was  foolish  and  useless.  I  was  in  despair,  and 
tried  my  best  to  get  the  carriage  from  Mr.  Bahnsen,  in  which 
I  succeeded  after  a  great  deal  of  trouble,  and  under  the  con- 
dition that  one  of  his  partners,  a  Mexican,  should  accompany 
me. 

It  was  already  five  o'clock  in  the  morning  when  we  started 
with  two  drivers,  as  usual,  and  five  mules.  These  animals 
were  used  to  drag  the  heavy  diligence,  and  having  such  a  light 
load  behind  them  they  became  quite  unmanageable,  and  after 
we  had  proceeded  only  a  few  leagues  they  succeeded  in  run- 
ning against  a  stone  fence  and  breaking  the  pole,  thus  fulfil- 
ling the  fears  of  Mr.  Bahnsen. 

My  Mexican  companion  was  in  despair,  and  after  much  ado 
and  useless  lamentations,  the  pole  was  tied  up,  and  we  arrived 
at  San  Michael,  where  I  thought  it  better  to  leave  Mr.  Bahn- 
sen's  light  concern  behind  and  to  take  the  diligence.  Thus 
we  travelled  as  fast  as  possible  all  day,  and  arrived  without 
any  further  accident  at  a  hacienda  half-way  to  San  Luis.  It 
was  now  midnight.  I  wanted  to  go  on  immediately,  but  the 
straw  man  whom  Mr.  Bahnsen  had  given  me  as  an  escort  de- 
clared that  he  was  tired,  that  he  required  sleep,  that  the  road 
was  infested  with  robbers ;  in  short,  that  he  would  not  go  any 
farther  that  night. 

I  had  at  last  to  give  way,  but  only  on  condition  that  we 
should  start  again  at  three  o'clock.  I  was  up  at  that  time, 
and  coachmen  and  mules  were  ready,  but  my  sleepy  escort 
was  not  to  be  seen,  and  all  our  thundering  against  his  door 
was  in  vain.  I  had  already  made  up  my  mind  to  leave  him  to 
his  slumbers  and  to  travel  alone,  when  he  appeared  at  six 
o'clock,  nicely  dressed  with  kid  gloves,  and  ordering  his  cup 
of  chocolate.  I  was  exceedingly  angry  and  expressed  my 
opinion  of  him  pretty  freely. 

Between  six  and  seven  o'clock  p.m.  we  arrived  at  San  Luis, 
and  put  up  at  Mr.  Bahnsen's  house,  where  his  sisters  received 
me  with  the  utmost  kindness.  I  had  continually  before  my 
mind  that  melancholy  face  of  the  august  martyr  in  Queretaro, 
which  looked  up  so  thankfully  to  mine  from  his  sick  bed  when 
I  departed,  and  was  urged  by  the  fear  that  every  minute's 
delay  might  cost  him  his  life ;  I  therefore  did  not  care  for  my 


Mr.  Iglesia's  Assistance,  197 

toilet,  but  hastened  at  once  to  the  residence  of  juarez.  At 
that  moment  he  had  a  Cabinet  meeting,  and  could  not  receive 
me.  He  requested,  however,  that  I  would  send  in  the  letter 
of  the  Emperor,  which  I  declined  to  do,  as  I  had  promised  to 
give  it  into  no  other  hands  but  his  own.  I  sent  him,  however, 
the  letter  of  Escobedo,  and  he,  appointed  nine  o'clock  a.m. 
next  day  as  the  hour  he  could  receive  me. 

The  brother  of  Mr.  Bahnsen  accompanied  me  next  morning 
to  the  President,  whom  I  found  again  in  company  with  Mr. 
Iglesia.  He  took  my  letter,  read  it,  handed  it  to  his  minister, 
and  said,  '  That  the  time  for  the  proceeding  against  Maximilian 
was  fixed  at  three  days  by  the  law,  and  that  he,  after  having 
considered  the  case,  regretted  that  he  could  not  grant  the 
requested  delay.' 

I  addressed  myself  to  Mr.  Iglesia,  and  pleaded  the  Empe- 
ror's cause  as  well  as  I  could.  I  declared  that  it  was  barba- 
rous to  shoot  a  prisoner  without  having  given  him  even  time 
for  his  defence,  and  to  treat  him  as  a  traitor  who  had  come  in 
the  honest  belief  that  he  had  been  elected  and  called  by  the 
Mexican  people.  A  few  days  more  could  not  be  of  any  im- 
portance to  the  Government,  and  even  prudence  dictated  to 
the  Government  not  to  show  such  improper  haste.  They 
might  reflect  on  the  consequences,  and  that  not  only  Europe, 
but  all  the  civilised  world  would  be  indignant  at  the  Mexican 
Government  if  it  acted  in  such  a  hasty,  cruel  manner. 

'  Well,  Mr.  Juarez,'  I  said,  '  pray  reserve  your  decision  until 
at  least  five  o'clock  this  atcernoon.  Should  you  remain  of  the 
same  determination,  then  J  will  return  to  Queretaro,  Heaven 
knows  with  how  sad  a  heart.' 

Mr.  Iglesia  saw  me  to  the  door,  and  T  spoke  to  him  what 
my  heart  prompted  me  to  say.  He  did  not  answer,  but  pressed 
my  hand  in  a  manner  which  seemed  to  promise  his  assistance. 

When  I  returned  at  five  o'clock  he  came  to  meet  me  with  a 
happy,  smiling  face,  and  without  saying  one  word  he  handed 
me  the  precious  order  granting  the  desired  delay.  I  was  so 
overjoyed  that  I  nearly  hugged  that  worthy  gentleman.  I 
wished  to  see  Mr.  Juarez  .n  order  that  I  might  thank  him,  but 
he  was  out. 

Though  I  was  told  that  the  order  for  the  respite  would  be 
telegraphed  to  Queretaro,  I  was  anxious  to  return  thither  im- 
mediately, and  declining  the  escort  of  the  Mexican  *')artner  of 


198  Ten  Years  of  my  Life. 

Mr.  Bahnsen,  who  must  have  been  a  sleeping  partner  I  sup- 
pose, I  accepted  that  of  a  very  hvely  partner,  a  Air.  Dans,  who 
proved  to  be  a  very  useful  and  agreeable  travelhng  companion. 
As  the  coachman  did  not  drive  fast  enough  for  him,  he  himself 
took  the  reins. 

The  journey  was  rather  troublesome.  The  night  was  as 
dark  as  could  be,  and  we  had  t©  light  torches,  which  were  ex- 
tinguished by  torrents  of  rain,  At  many  places  the  road  was 
so  rough  and  dangerous  that  I  had  to  walk  for  some  leagues, 
which  was  indeed  no  joke  on  such  anight  and  in  such  weather. 
I  had,  moreover,  only  one  pair  of  thin  boots,  which  were  soon 
cut  by  the  sharp  stones.  Fortunately  I  had  plenty  of  things 
to  refresh  myself  inside,  for  the  good  sisters  of  Mr.  Bahnsen 
stuffed  the  vvhole  carriage  with  an  immense  quantity  of  things, 
not  only  for  me  and  niy  companions,  but  also  for  the  Emperor 
and  my  husband. 

Between  ten  and  eleven  o'clock  a.m.  I  arrived  in  Queretaro, 
and  drove  to  my  hotel  to  wash  and  to  put  on  some  other  dress; 
but  when  I  heard  that  the  Emperor  did  not  yet  know  anything 
of  a  respite,  I  would  not  delay  a  moment,  but  hastened  as  fast 
as  I  could  to  the  Capuchin  convent. 

J  was  worn  with  fatigue  ;  my  boots  torn  to  pieces,  and  my 
feet  sore ;  my  hair  in  disorder,  and  my  face  and  hands  un- 
washed »  I  'must  indeed  have  looked  like  a  scarecrow,  but  I  was 
very  happy  and  a  little  proud  too. 

When  T  arrived  some  Americans  were  with  the  Emperor. 
One  of  these  visitors  described  the  scene  in  a  paper,  and  I  will 
give  his  description,  as  that  of  an  unconcerned  eye-witness 
frequently  conveys  a  far  more  correct  idea  of  a  situation  than 
can  possibly  be  done  by  one  of  the  interested  persons  : — 

*  A  bustle  was  heard  outside,  the  heavy  door  w^as  opened, 
and  a  soldier  announced  "  La  Senora  ! "  In  an  instant  Prince 
Salm-Salm  held  the  new-comer  in  his  arms.  She  was  the 
voluntary  messenger,  his  wife,  who  had  just  arrived  from  San 
Luis  Potosi  from  Juarez.  Her  face  was  sunburnt  and  soiled, 
her  shoes  were  torn,  her  whole  frame  trembled  with  nerveless 
fatigue  as  she  laid  her  hands  upon  her  husband's  shoulders. 
The  Archduke  came  forward  eagerly,  waiting  his  turn.  The 
Prince  was  heard  to  ask  in  a  whisper,  "  Have  you  had  any 
success  ?     What  did  Juarez  say  ?  " 

•  "They  will  do  what  they  have  said  in  despatches.     They 


An  American  Eye-iuitness.  199 

have  granted  the  delay."    She  turned  to  Maximilian,  "Oh, 
your  Majesty,  I  am  so  glad." 

'  Maximilian  took  the  Princess's  hand,  and  kissed  it.  "  May 
God  bless  you,  madame  ! "  he  said ;  you  have  been  too  kind 
to  one  who  is  afraid  he  can  never  serve  you." 

*  The  Princess  forced  a  smile.  "  Do  not  be  too  sure  of  that, 
your  Majesty ;  I  shall  have  some  favour  to  ask  for  the  Prince 
here  yet." 

*  "  You  will  never  need  to  ask  that,  madame,"  responded  the 
Archduke,  leading  the  lady  to  a  seat.  "  But  you  look  weary. 
You  are  very  tired.  We  can  offer  you  little.  Salm,  you  must 
care  for  your — I " 

*  Turning  his  face  aside  Maximilian  moved  abruptly  towards 
the  window.  It  was  easy  to  see  why.  His  grief  was  restrained, 
but  almost  audible.  The  Prince — with  one  hand  on  the  back 
of  his  wife's  chair,  and  with  the  other  uplifted  towards  the 
Archduke  in  mute  protestation — could  hardly  restrain  his  own 
emotion.  ^    ■ 

It  was  time  intrusion  should  cease.  The  visitor,  who  had 
already  reached  the  door,  made  an  unnoticed  salute  and  with- 
drew 


200 


CHAPTER  XIV 

My  husband's  plans  for  escape — I  do  not  believe  in  them — T  offer  to  go  to 
Mexico  to  fetch  Baron  Magnus,  lawyers,  and  money — Delays — How 
I  managed  Escobedo — A  telegram  makes  my  journey  superfluous — 
Consul  Bahnsen  again  in  a  fright — ^Judge  Hall — Arrival  of  the  For- 
eign Ministers  in  Queretaro — Impression  made  by  it — Baron  Magnus 
— Money  no  object — The  Austrian  and  Belgian  Ministers — Mr. 
Curtopassi — My  plan  to  save  the  Emperor — Money  wanted — Baron 
Magnus  gone  to  St.  Tuis — Colonel  Villaneuva — Colonel  Palacios — 
How  I  tempt  him — Two  bills  for  one  hundred  thousand  dollars  each, 
but  no  cash — Baron  Lago  in  deadly  fear  for  his  neck — His  cow- 
ardice. 

The  respite  had  been  obtained,  but  now  came  the  question 
how  to  make  use  of  it.  The  first  time  when  I  saw  the  Emperor 
I  had  urged  on  him  the  necessity  of  sending  for  Earon 
Magnus  and  some  lawyers  from  Mexico,  but  he  said  he  would 
not  have  them,  as  it  was  of  no  use.  He  would  not  telegraph 
for  them  even  now,  but  had  in  his  head  a  plan  for  escape 
which  had  been  arranged  by  my  husband,  who  was  very  san- 
guine about  it,  and  the  escape  was  to  take  place  as  soon  as 
the  bribed  officers  should  mount  the  guard. 

Now  I  had  not  any  confidence  in  the  success  of  this  plan 
from  the  commencement,  though  I  assisted  in  it  as  much  as  I 
could.  The  plan  was  very  excellent,  but  1  put  no  trust  in  the 
men  whom  my  husband  employed.  Two  of  them  had  de- 
serted from  the  French  army.  They  were  inferior  officers,  who 
seemed  not  to  have  either  the  power  or  the  pluck  to  carry  out 
what  they  promised,  but  gave  me  the  impression  that  they 
wanted  only  to  extort  money.  I  therefore  had  opposed  the 
plan  from  the  beginning,  and  insisted  that  the  Emperor  should 
address  himself  to  a  far  higher  authority. 

Not  trusting,  as  I  have  already  said,  in  the  success  of  the 


Money  Matters.  201 

plan  of  escape,  I  wrung  from  the  Emperor  the  promise  to  send 
for  Baron  Magnus,  as  also  for  the  lawyers,  and  oftered  to 
travel  to  Mexico  to  bring  them  to  him. 

I  did  not  insist  on  the  sending  for  Baron  Magnus  because  I 
thought  much  of  either  his  skill  or  energy,  but  only  because  he 
was  the  one  man  from  whom  we  might  expect  ready  money, 
which  seemed  to  me  more  important  than  anything  else. 

As  I  was  afraid  that  General  Marquez  might  arrest  me  in 
Mexico,  the  Emperor  wrote  to  him  the  following  letter  : — 

*  To  D.  Leonardo  Marquez,  Division-General. 

*  My  dear  General, 

'  The  bearer  of  these  lines  is  Princess  Salm,  vcho  has  the 
kindness  to  go  to  Mexico  for  the  arrangement  of  family  affairs  of  much 
importance,  and  to  speak  with  the  lawyers  who  will  defend  me.  You 
will,  for  the  time  of  her  sojourn  in  Mexico,  and  for  her  return  to  Quereturo 
do  all  that  can  be  useful  and  agreeable  to  the  Princess. 

Yours  affectesimo, 

'MAXMILIAN'O.' 

Re  gave  me  also  a  letter  to  Baron  Magnus,  which  my  hus- 
band has  published  in  his  above-quoted  book,  and  two  others 
for  the  two  eminent  lawyers,  Riva  Palacios  and  Martinez  de 
la  Torre,  who  were  to  defend  him  ;  a  few  lines  also  for  Father 
Fischer,  in  which  was  enclosed  the  following  letter  concerning 
the  private  money  of  the  Emperor,  which  I  publish  here,  be- 
cause the  money  mentioned  in  it,  which  I  was  to  bring  to  the 
Emperor  with  me,  had  disappeared  without  anybody  knowing 
what  had  become  of  it. 

*  To  the  Secretary  of  the  Cabinet,  IMr.  Augustin  Fischer. 

.     '  *  Queretaro,  March  29,  1867. 

*By  these   presents  you   are   ordered  to  try  to  collect  the  following 
amount  : — 

Dollars. 

Civil  list,  due  ult  of  March.         ...•••  io,oco 

Expenses  of  my  household  in  that  month,         •         .         •  1,500 

Civil  list  for  April.      ....••••  10,000 

Household i»500 

Civil  list  due  for  the  first  15  days  of  May.     ,         ,         .         .  5,000 

Household.      •••«••«••  75^ 

28,750 


202  Ten   Years  of  my  Life. 

*  You  will  arrange  with  D.  Carlos  Sanchez  Navarro,  minister  of  my 
household,  that  at  least  my  claims  for  the  expenses  of  my  household,  cal- 
culated at  10,000  dollars  a  month— 'which,  however,  in  two  months  and  a 
half  were  only  paid  once — may  be  paid.  What  you  receive  you  will  add 
to  the  above-mentioned  28,750  dollars  ;  and  deliver  the  whole  sum  to  the 
Prussian  consul  in  Mexico,  M.  Stephan  von  Benecke,  to  cover  conjointly 
witli  him,  if  possible,  the  bills  4n  favour  of  the  commander  of  the  corvette 
"  Elisabeth,"  D.  W.  Groeler,  in  Vera  Cruz,  which  M.  Benecke  will 
transmit  to  him  securely. 

Maximilian. 

The  directions  made  in  reference  to  the  employment  of  the 
money  mentioned  in  this  letter  were  only  written  to  bUnd  the 
Liberals  in  case  that  it  should  fall  into  their  hands,  for  in  fact 
I  was  to  bring  all  the  money  that  could  be  collected,  which 
might  have  been  easily  done  by  me,  it  travelling  back  in  com- 
pany of  Baron  Magnus  and  the  two  lawyers  selectedas  defenders 
of  the  Emperor. 

As  I  had  good  reasons  to  expect  difficulties  from  General 
Porfirio  Diaz  also,  who  despatched  me  so  ceremoniously  out 
of  his  camp,  I  went  to  General  Escobedo,  explained  to  him 
the  reason  why  I  had  to  go  to  Mexico,  and  he  gave  me  the 
following^  lines  : — 

*  To  General  Porfirio  Diaz,  Tacubaya, 

*Queretaro,  May  21,  1867.    " 

'  Much  honoured  Friend  and  Comrade, 

'  Princess  Salm-Salm  passes  through  Tacubaya,  on  behalf  of  Maximilian, 
to  hasten  the  arrival  of  the  counsel  whom  he  has  chosen  to  defend  him. 
Having  regard  for  her  sex,  I  have  taken  the  liberty  of  recommending  her 
to  your  kindness,  not  doubting  that  you  will  assist  her. 

'  Assuring  you  of  my  regard,  I  remain 

*  Your  friend  and  comrade, 

*  M.  Escobedo.* 

Everything  was  now  ready  for  me  to  start,  but  again  I  met 
with  an  unexpected  difficulty  which  came  from  my  husband. 
The  time  for  the  execution  of  his  plan  for  the  Emperor's 
escape  was  drawing  near,  and  the  2nd  of  June  was  fixed  upon 
for  the  attempt.  If  it  succeeded  my  going  to  Mexico  would 
not  be  required,  and  if  they  should  be  prevented,  or  retaken, 
or  perhaps  wounded,  my  presence  in  Queretaro,  he  said, 
would  be  of  the  greatest  value.     I  had  quite  a  fight  with  him 


Plans  fo)'  Escape.  203 

about  it  in  the  presence    of  the  Emperor,  which,  However, 
ended  with  my  doing  his  will. 

I  had  been  in  such  a  hurry  to  leave  that  I  was  afraid  my 
delaying  might  cause  some  comment  or  suspicion,  and  I  had 
to  think  of  some  n^se  to  explain  it.  I  therefore  went  to  Esco- 
bedo,  feigned  to  be  much  afraid  of  Porfirio  Diaz,  and  that  he 
might  not  respect  his  letter  and  detain  me,  or  send  me  out  of 
the  country.  I  requested  the  General  to  procure  me  a  permis- 
sion from  Juarez  to  go  to  Mexico  and  return.  Escobedo  pro- 
tested that  his  letter  would  be  perfectly  sufficient,  but  I  in- 
sisted, and  ot  course  made  him  do  w4iat  I  wanted,  though  he 
shrugged  his  shoulders  and  shook  his  head. 

He  telegraphed  to  Juarez,  and  as  I  had  to  w^ait  for  an 
answer,  my  remaining  in  the  city  w^as  explained. 

The  Emperor  believed  that  I  had  gone,  and  was  very  much 
astonished  when  I  came  to  see  him.  When  I  told  him  how  I 
had  managed  with  Escobedo  his  face  lit  up,  and  he  said 
laughingly,  '  Well,  my  dear  Princess,  whenever  I  become  free 
I  shall  certainly  make  you  my  Secretary  of  Foreign  Affairs.' 

Though  I  had  to  yield  to  the  will  of  my  husband,  I  did  so 
with  a  very  heavy  heart,  for  I  was  perfectly  convinced  that  his 
plan  of  escape  was  all  moonshine,  and  w^ould  end  in  nothing 
but  bringing  forth  new  difliculties  and  dangers.  I  therefore 
was  anxious  to  procure  means  for  carrying  out  my  intentions 
as  far  as  it  was  possible,  without  my  going  myself  to  Mexico. 

Mr.  Dans,  the  lively  partner  of  Mr.  Bahnsen,  was  going  to 
that  city.  Though  we  dared  not  trust  him  with  all  the  com- 
missions which  the  Emperor  had  confided  to  me,  especially 
with  the  collection  of  considerable  sums  which  would  have 
raised  suspicion,  he  was  charged  with  verbal  messages  to  Baron 
Magnus  and  the  counsel,  in  order  to  hurry  their  arrival  in 
Queretaro,  for,  as  I  said  before,  Baron  Magnus  was  the  only 
man  who  was  likely  to  procure  the  money  I  wanted. 

On  June  2,  the  Emperor  received  a  telegram  from  'Mexico, 
informing  him  that  Baron  Magnus  and  the  two  lawyers  were 
on  their  way  to  Queretaro  ;  the  ostensible  object  of  my  jour- 
ney being  thus  fulfilled,  my  departure  was  no  longer  required. 

This  telegram  interfered  also  with  fhe  plan  of  escape 
arranged  by  my  husband,  which  was  to  be  carried  out  that  very 
night.  The  Emperor,  to  whom  the  idea  of  escape  had  always 
been  repugnant,  w^as  glad  to  find  a  pretext  or  reason  to  post- 


20  i  ,  Ten  Years  of  my  Life. 

pone  it.  I\ra3be  that  the  expected  arrival  of  Baron  Ivlagniis 
and  the  lawyers  inspired  him  again  with  new  hope,  and  made 
him  think  our  fears  for  his  life  exaggerated.  He  declared  to 
my  husband  that  he  would  not  make  the  attempt  to  escape 
that  night,  but  wait  for  the  arrival  of  Baron  Magnus,  and  said 
that  a  few  days  more  or  less  could  not  matter.  My  husband 
was  in  despair.  He  implored  the  Emperor  not  to  be  deluded 
by  false  hopes,  but  to  profit  by  an  opportunity  which  might 
never  occur  again.  All  was  in  vain ;  the  Emperor  remained 
firm. 

Mr.  Bahnsen,  who  had  heard  something  of  the  plans  of 
escape,  felt  very  uneasy  in  Queretaro,  and  being  afraid  that  he 
might  get  into  difficulties  with  the  Liberal  Government,  he  left 
for  San  Euis  Potosi,  where  he  remained  in  constant  fear. 

Amongst  the  persons  employed  in  the  preparations  for 
escape  was  a  Liberal  ex-officer,  who  soon  after  the  departure 
of  Mr.  Bahnsen  ran  ou'  with  two  thousand  dollars  which  had 
been  confided  to  him.  On  discovering  this,  I  telegraphed  at 
once  to  Mr.  Bahnsen  to  stop  the  thief;  but  I  got  only  the 
following  anonymous  lines  in  reply  :  "  Your  friends  in  San 
Luis  wish  you  would  not  compromise  them  by  telegraphic 
despatches,  as  you  did  to-day.' 

The  thief  had  been  in  the  house  of  Mr.  Bahnsen,  and 
frightened  that  gentleman  out  of  his  senses  Vjy  threatening  that 
he  would  disclose  all  he  knew.  He  said  also  that  he  had  only 
eight  hundred  dollars  left  of  the  money,  and  Mr.  Bshnsen  was 
glad  when  the  fellow  left  the  house  with  his  booty. 

There  was  at  that  time  an  American  lawyer,  Judge  Hall,  in 
Mexico,  who  had  to  arrange  some  business  with  the  Liberal 
Government  for  Mr.  Halyday,  of  New  York.  Mr.  Hall  was 
from  California.  He  was  an  able  lawyer,  well  versed  in  Mexi- 
can law,  and  understood  Spanish  pertectly  well.  I  spoke  to 
the  I^mperor  about  Judge  Hall,  whom  he  saw,  and  resolved  to 
employ  him  for  his  defence. 

J  udge  Hall  knew  of  the  whole  afi"air  of  the  escape,  and  had 
taken  charge  of  the  horses  bought  for  it. 

It  will  be  seen  that  I  was  perfectly  right  when  I  said  that 
the  men  whom  my  husband  had  employed  for  the  escape  of 
the  Emperor  had  no  other  intentions  than  to  extort  money. 
When  the  escape  was  postponed  and  the  arrival  of  the  foreign 
ministers  and  lawyers  announced,  they  were  afraid  that  the 


Judge  Rail.  205 

whole  thing  might  be  given  up,  and  they  lose  the  promised  sums- 
One  Captain  among  them,  the  most  energetic  man  of  them  all, 
came  to  my  house  and  demanded  of  me  immediately  five 
hundred  dollars  more.  If  I  should  refuse  to  give  in  to  his 
demand,  the  escape  could  not  take  place.  He  even  used  some 
threatening  v/ords.  I  had  not  the  money,  and  would  not  have 
given  it  if  I  had,  without  having  previously  spoken  with  the 
Emperor  or  my  husband.  I  told  the  former,  and  he  desired 
me  not  to  give  that  man  one  single  penny. 

Whether  the  captain  made  good  some  of  his  threats  I  do  not 
know  ;  but  the  fact  was,  that  Judge  Hall  and  all  foreigners  were 
ordered  some  days  later  to  leave  Queretaro.  I  then  took  the 
horses  into  the  stable  of  my  house. 

Judge  Hall  left  the  city,  and  the  diligence  was  arrested  and 
robbed  some  distance  from  Queretaro.  The  Judge  had  in  his 
service  an  Italian,  who  returned  to  Queretaro,  and  requested 
me,  on  the  part  of  his  master,  to  use  my  influence  with  Esco- 
bedo  to  induce  him  to  send  men  after  the  robbers  who  had 
taken  his  luggage.  The  servant  asked  me  also,  in  the  name  of 
the  judge,  to  lend  him  one  of  the  horses.  As  the  judge,  how- 
ever, knew  that  the  horses  were  not  mine,  and  might  be  required 
every  moment,  I  did  not  believe  that  he  had  really  sent  that 
request,  and  refused  .  but  the  Italian  went  away  to  the  stable, 
said  there  that  I  had  lent  him  a  horse,  and  went  off  with  one. 
An  hour  or  two  afterwards  I  heard  of  this  ;  I  told  Colonel  Villan- 
ueva  of  it  immediately,  who  sent  a  guard  after  the  Italian,  who 
overtook  and  captured  him,  and  put  him  in  prison.  His  name 
was  Frank  Leva,  as  I  saw  from  a  precious  letter  which  he  wrote 
me  from  prison,  and  which  commenced  :  '  Plase  do  my  the 
faver  of  let  my  at  liberty  as  son  as  posible,  or  I  wil  tel  every 
ting  goen  on,  I  no  hoi  about,  and  will  by  better  for  you  and 
the  Emperor,  you  ousband,  &c.'  He  said  that  lie  did  not 
want  to  steal  the  horse,  that  he  was  no  thief,  and  so  on.  Colo- 
nel Villanueva  kept  him  three  days  in  prison,  and  then  let  him 
go.  "     .     • 

On  June  5,  Baron  Magnus,  Mr.  Scholler  his  chancellor,  and 
the  two  celebrated  lawyers  from  Mexico,  arrived.  One  day 
later  followed  Baron  Lago,  the  Austrian  minister,  Mr.  Schmidt 
his  secretary,  Mr.  Horricks  the  Belgian,  and  Mr.  Curtopassi, 
the  Italian  Charge  d^ Affaires. 

The  arrival  of  the  foreign  representatives  produced  na  goo(^ 


206  Ten   Years  of  my  Life. 

effect  on  the  affairs  of  the  Emperor.  The  gentlemen — so  it  ap- 
peared at  least  to  me — misunderstood  their  position  in  reference 
to  the  repubhcan  Government.  Their  manner  and  tone  may- 
have  been  perfectly  correct  and  proper,  and  as  it  became  the 
representatives  of  great  Powers  ;  but  they  seemed  to  forget  a 
most  essential  thing — that  they  were  not  accredited  to  the 
Liberal  Government,  but  to  an  Emperor,  who  was  looked  upon 
as  an  usurper,  and  who  was  now  on  his  trial  for  treason.  They 
further  forgot  that  the  Liberal  Government  cared  but  little  for 
all  those  Powers  whom  they  represented,  as  they  knew  ex- 
tremely well  that  none  of  them  could  do  them  much  harm, 
because  they  were  protected  by  the  United  States,  which  pro- 
tection proved  powerful  enough  to  drive  out  of  Mexico  one  of 
the  most  powerful  princes  of  Europe. 

Baron  Magnus's  behaviour  made  on  me  the  most  ludicrous 
impression,  and  it  would  have  afforded  me  much  amusement 
if  the  circumstances  had  not  been  so  serious.  He  strutted 
about  inflated  with  serio-comic  diplomatical  importance — a 
Cardinal  Richelieu,  Prince  Talleyrand,  Prince  Metternich,  and 
Prince  Bismarck  Avrapped  up  in  one  Baron  Magnus  !  When 
he,  after  his  arrival,  went  to  see  General  Escobedo,  and  pre- 
sented himself  as  the  minister  of  Prussia,  that  irreverential 
Republican  General  put  him  down  ^  peg  or  two  by  telling  him 
that  he  had  nothing  to  do  with  the  representative  of  Prussia, 
which  did  not  recognise  his  Government ;  that  he  would  re- 
ceive him  only  as  Mr.  Magnus,  a  friend  of  Maximiliano  ;  and 
that  he  would  give  him  any  facility  which  he  desired  in  refe- 
rence to  the  defence  of  the  prisoner. 

The  two  lawyers  were  to  go  immediately  to  San  Luis  Potosi, 
to  see  how  matters  stood  there,  and  what  was  best  to  be  done 
in  the  interest  of  their  client.  As  I  had  seen  Mr.  Juarez  and 
Mr.  Iglesia  before,  and  spoken  to  both  about  the  position  of 
the  Emperor,  Baron  Magnus  told  me  that  the  two  lawyers  would 
call  on  me,  and  requested  me  to  give  them  as  much  informa- 
tion as  I  could  in  reference  to  the  views  and  feelings  of  these 
two  important  personages.  As  they  were  very  busy  I  preferred 
calling  upon  them,  and  I  told  them  that  Mr.  Iglesia  appeared 
to  be  rather  well-disposed  and  inclined  to  listen  to  conditions. 
I  told  them  that  Mr.  Iglesia  had  not  altogether  rejected  the 
idea  of  an  arrangement,  and  the  suggestion  that  the  European 
powers  might  perhaps  be  willing  to  guarantee  the  war  debt  it 


Escohedo  takes  precautioiis.  207 

the  life  of  the  Emperor  were  spared,  or  agree  to  grant  other 
advantages  if  time  only  were  given  him  to  enter  upon  negotia- 
tions. 

Neither  Baron  Magnus  nor  the  other  representatives  seemed 
to  realise  the  idea  that  the  Emperor  would  be  shot,  even  if 
condemned.  Wrapped  up  in  the  importance  of  their  own  posi- 
tion, they  forgot,  as  I  said  before,  that  the  republican  Mexicans 
did  not  know  much  of  those  great  states  of  Prussia,  Austria, 
Italy,  and  Belgium,  which  were  several  thousands  of  miles  dis- 
tant. They  may  therefore  be  excused  for  being  more  aston- 
ished and  amazed  at  all  the  bluster  and  fuss  of  their  represen- 
tatives than  overawed. 

Whilst  thus  the  ministers  were  full  of  the  idea  that  the  Mexi- 
can Government  would  not  dare  to  commit  an  act  which  would 
be  condemned,  and  perhaps  avenged,  by  all  European  Powers, 
I  was  perfecdy  convinced  that  Juarez  and  his  Cabinet  would 
not  take  the  slightest  notice  of  it,  and  that  the  death  of  the 
Emperor  being  decided  upon,  nothing  could  save  him  but 
escape.  This  was  not  my  own  idea  only.  I  had  heard  the 
opinions  of  Mexican  republicans,  who  were  not  cruel  them- 
selves, and  who  felt  great  sympathy  for  the  Emperor,  but  all 
were  sure  that  he  would  be  shot. 

When  I  was  with  Baron  Magnus  in  the  Emperor's  apart- 
ments, the  plan  for  escape  being  mentioned,  the  Baron  declar- 
ed it  to  be  nonsense,  and  that  it  was  not  yet  at  all  requisite  to 
think  of  such  a  hazardous  enterprise.  He  seemed  to  have 
great  confidence  in  negotiations,  and  to  believe  that  there 
would  still  be  time  enough  for  escape,  which  he  seemed  to  be  in- 
clined to  think  beneath  the  dignity  of  the  Emperor.  Money  for 
that  purpose,  however,  seemed  to  be  of  very  inferior  importance 
to  the  Baron,  and  he  spoke  as  if  there  would  be  enough,  in 
case  of  need,  to  buy  the  whole  garrison. 

Escobedo  seemed  also  to  take  alarm  at  the  idea  of  the  money 
the  Emperor  was  supposed  to  have,  for  the  report  had  spread 
that  the  representatives  had  brought  with  them  immense  sums. 
Now,  as  the  General  knew  perfectly  well  the  Mexican  weak- 
ness, he  thought  it  well  to  take  precautions.  He  separated  all 
the  other  prisoners  from  the  Emperor,  Miramon,  and  Mejia, 
and  trebled  the  guards.  He  also  gave  an  order  that  all  the 
prisoners  should  be  shot  immediately  if  they  only  made  an 
attempt  to  escape.     Before  the  arrival  of  the  ministers  it  was 


20S  Ten   Years  of  my  Life. 

easy  to  obtain  permission  to  see  the  Emperor,  but  now  I  had, 
like  all  the  ministers,  to  send  always  for  an  especial  permission. 

The  Austrian  and  Belgian  tiovernments  must  know  better 
than  I  do  whether  their  representatives  acted  according  to  their 
instructions ;  but  to  us,  and  even  to  the  Mexicans,  their 
behaviour  appeared  very  extraordinary,  and  by  no  means  to  be 
admired.  When  the  French  troops  left,  they  had  already  done 
great  harm  to  the  cause  of  the  Emperor  by  their  circulars, 
which  filled  the  foreign  troops  who  wanted  to  remain  with  the 
Emperor  with  suspicion ;  and  now  they  behaved  and  talked 
as  if  they  were  quite  on  the  side  of  his  enemies. 

I  have  been  told  that  the  Austrian  Charge  d' Affaires  and  his 
secretary  did  so,  'the  better  to  serve  the  Emperor  ;'  but  I  must 
say  it  was  a  very  strange,  and  to  me  an  incomprehensible 
policy. 

Mr.  Elooricks,  the  Belgian  minister,  went  so  far  in  further- 
ance of  this  policy,  that  he  openly,  and  in  the  presence  of  the 
staff  of  Escobedo  and  the  General  himself,  spoke  of  the  Em- 
peror with  the  most  unbecoming  expressions.  He  called  him 
something  like  a  '  stupid  fellow,'  and  said  that  the  Liberal 
Government  was  perfectly  within  its  rights  in  shooting  him. 
Escobedo  and  his  staff  officers  are  still  there  to  confirm  the 
truth  of  what  I  have  here  stated. 

Mr.  Curtopassi,  the  Italian  Charge  d'Affaires,  behaved  far 
better  than  either  the  Austrian  or  the  Belgian  Ministers.  He 
at  least  tried  to  serve  the  Emperor,  and  if  he  did  not  succeed 
it  was  only  because  he  had  to  work  with  promises  instead  of 
ready  cash. 

He  addressed  himself  to  the  Mexican  physician  who  had  to 
visit  the  Emperor,  M.  Riva  de  Nigra,  and  promised  him  ten 
thousand  dollars  if  he  would  so  arrange  that  the  Emperor 
should  be  placed  in  a  private  house,  for  which  we  had  worked 
long  before,  as  I  have  already  stated.  We  wanted  it,  because 
it  was  far  easier  to  arrange  an  escape  from  such  a  private  house 
than  from  where  he  was. 

The  doctor,  who  would  probably  not  have  resisted  a  few 
hundred  '  ounces'  in  cash,  dM  not  trust  promises,  and  thought 
it  more  profitable  to  inform  Escobedo  of  the  proposition  made 
to  him.  As  the  desire  in  itself  seemed  so  innocent,  and  had 
l)een  expressed  before,  Escobedo  took  no  further  notice  of  it, 
blill  the  offer  of  so  much  money  made  him  suspicious. 


Escape  the  only  means  of  safety.  209 

I  did  not  understand  then  much  about  the  importance  of 
Charges  d' Affaires,  neither  did  the  Mexicans ;  but  I  knew  for 
certain  that  their  pretensions  and  their  rather  haughty  tone  and 
manner  made  them  angry.  I  was  on  a  friendly  footing  with 
all  the  staff  of  Escobedo,  and  I  heard  from  them  many  things 
they  would  not  have  told  others.  My  attachment  to  the  Em- 
peror, and  my  zeal  in  his  cause,  rather  pleased  them,  and  I  am 
sure  most  of  them  secretly  wished  me  success  at  least,  if  they 
did  not  do  so  openly.  From  them  I  heard  that  the  scene  was 
now  drawing  to  a  close ;  that  the  ministers  were  utterly  im- 
potent, and  that  their  interference  would  not  do  the  least  good. 
The  only  thing  which  could  save  the  Emperor  was  escape. 
That  was  whispered  in  my  ear  by  more  than  one. 

I  spoke  to  the  Emperor  most  earnestly ;  but  it  seemed  to 
me  that  he  also  had  been  influenced  by  the  great  confidence  of 
the  ministers,  especially  by  Baron  Magnus — and  that  is  the 
reason  why  I  have  always  retained  a  kind  of  spite  against  the 
Baron,  who  treated  my  fears  as  those  of  a  nervous  woman — 
and  that  he  looked  now  upon  his  position  in  a  less  gloomy  light 
than  before  their  arrival.  However,  as  he  could  not  doubt  my 
sincerity  and  goodwill,  and  believed  somewhat  in  my  sound 
judgment  and  observation,  he  listened  at  least  to  my  sugges- 
tions. 

Long  before  this  I  had  impressed  on  him  the  necessity  of 
negotiating  about  an  escape,  not  with  inferior  officers,  but  with 
those  highest  in  command.  One  of  them  I  had  won  already  ; 
he  had  the  command  over  all  the  guards  in.  the  city ;  but 
Colonel  Palacios  had  also  to  be  won,  who  had  the  command 
over  the  prison  itself.  For  this  purpose  I  wanted  one  hundred 
thousand  dollars  in  gold  from  the  Emperor,  which  were  to  be 
placed  in  the  bank  of  M.  Rubio,  to  be  drawn  according  to  cir- 
cumstances, for  ready  cash.  This,  I  said,  was  the,  most  essen- 
tial thing  in  dealing  with  all  Americans. 

The  Emperor  said  that  money  was  the  least  trouble  in  the 
affair,  for  Baron  Magnus  and  the  other  ministers  had  assured 
him  that  it  would  be  at  his  disposal  to  any  amount.  Strange  ! 
at  the  tail  of  each  word  of  these  gentlemen  hung  a  gold  ounce, 
but  not  a  miserable  dollar  at  the  tips  of  their  fingers  I  It  is 
indeed  excusable  if  I  get  impatient  and  indignant,  h^t  \]\\s 
paltry  stinginess  killed  the  Emperor. 

Baron  Magnus  had  unfortunately  gone  to  San  LuiS  Po'tOSi. 

M 


210  Ten  Years  of  my  Life. 

The  two  lawyers  there  had  telegraphed  for  him,  and  it  was  be- 
lieved that  he  might  come  to  some  arrangement  with  the  Govern- 
ment. The  Emperor  was  much  against  his  going,  as  he  told 
me  himself  in  the  presence  of  Dr.  Basch,  for  he  had  still  more 
confidence  in  Magnus  than  in  any  of  the  other  ministers. 

I  told  the  Emperor  that  without  money  I  could  do  nothing, 
and  he  sent  tor  Baron  Lago,  the  Austrian  Charge  d'Affaires, 
who  had  not  ventured  near  him  for  two  days.  I  believe  the 
good  Baron  belonged  to  that  great  tribe  which  they  call  in 
Germany  '  harefoots  ' — Hasenfiisse.  He  had  been  of  the 
opinion  that  the  Emperor  would  not  be  shot,  and  treated  my 
apprehensions  also  as  the  fancies  of  a  frightened  woman  ;  but 
of  late  he  had  become  rather  nervous,  and  was  afraid  these  re- 
publican rascals  would  not  only  shoot  the  Emperor,  but  even 
the  most  sacred  representative  of  his  Imperial  brother  of 
Austria ! 

The  Emperor  was  indeed  very  much  forsaken,  and  felt  so ; 
and  when  I  told  him  that  the  Imperial  imprisoned  colonels 
were  all  to  be  sent  away,  and  my  husband  with  them,  and  that 
I  should  have  to  follow  them,  he  was  very  much  excited,  and 
said,  '  You  are  the  only  person  who  has  really  done  anything 
for  me.  If  you  go,  I  am  utterly  forsaken.'  In  consequence 
of  this,  it  was  arranged  between  my  husband  and  myself  that 
he  should  now  show  his  commission  as  a  General,  which  he 
had  not  done  before,  as  it  was  said  that  all  the  Generals  would 
be  shot.     He  was  of  course  in  no  hurry  for  that. 

The  day  appointed  for  the  trial  ot  the  ILmperor  and  Mira- 
mon  and  Mejia  now  arrived.  It  was  to  be  held  in  the  theatre, 
which  was  decorated  for  that  purpose  as  for  a  festival.  It  was 
an  odious  idea,  as  it  appeared  to  me,  that  the  Emperor,  weak 
and  sick  as  he  was,  should  be  placed  there  as  an  exhibition  ! 

¥/hen  I  saw  him  therefore  the  night  previous  to  the  trial,  I 
endeavoured  to  persuade  him  not  to  go,  but  rather  to  take 
something  in  the  morning  which  might  make  him  appear  even 
more  sick  for  a  time  than  he  really  was.  He  did  not  himself 
like  the  idea  of  appearing  in  the  theatre,  but  was  afraid  he 
might  be  compelled  to  go.  I  satisfied  him,  however,  in  that 
respect,  as  I  had  spoken  before  to  Colonel  Viilanueva,  who  ad- 
vised that  mode  of  avoiding  it. 

When  I  arrived  at  the  Capuchins  next  morning  at  nine 
o'clock  the  prisoners  were  just  coming  out,  and  my  heart  beat, 


Fear  of  Assassination.  211 

for  I  was  afraid  of  seeing  tlie  Emperor  also,  but  he  did  not 
come.  General  Miramon  looked  as  bright  as  if  he  were  going 
to  a  ball,  but  poor  Mejia  looked  very  much  depressed. 

My  husband  had  written  a  letter  to  the  Emperor,  which  I 
transmitted  to  him,  in  which  he  implored  him  to  lose  no  time 
by  resigning  himself  to  delusive  hopes,  but  to  prepare  Immedi- 
ately for  escape,  for  which  the  plan  was  also  contained  in  the 
letter. 

I  now  told  the  Emperor  that  I  had  arranged  everything  with 
Colonel  Villanueva,  who  would  lead  him  outside  the  prison, 
where  a  guard  of  one  hundred  men  would  be  kept  ready  toes- 
curt  him  to  the  Sierra  Gorda,  and  from  thence  to  the  coast. 
The  Emperor  insisted  on  my  following  him  close  on  horseback 
with  Dr.  Basch.  He  was  afraid  of  being  betrayed  and  assas- 
sinated, and  thought  that  the  presence  of  a  lady  might  be  a 
kind  of  protection  against  such  an  atrocious  act. 

Villanueva  had,  however,  declared  to  me  that  nothing  could 
be  done  without  Palacios,  who  had  always  three  guards  in  the 
prison  who  walked  all  night  before  the  room  of  the  Emperor. 
I  told  him  so,  and  that  1  had  myself  engaged  to  win  him  over, 
but  that  I  required  money  for  that  purpose. 

The  Emperor  now  saw  at  last  his  position  in  its  true  light, 
and  regretted  that  he  had  squandered  so  much  precious  time. 
Unfortunately  he  had  no  money,  but  he  said  he  would  look  to 
that,  and  have  at  least  five  thousand  dollars  in  gold,  which  I 
required  to  give  either  to  Palacois  to  distribute  amongst  tlie 
soldiers,  or  to  give  it  myself  into  their  hands. 

When  I  returned  again  to  see  the  Emperor  he  was  in  de- 
spair, for  he  could  not  procure  the  money  which  was  required 
to  bribe  the  two  colonels  ;  but  he  would  give  me  two  bills,  each 
^  for  one  hundred  thousand  dollars,  signed  by  himself,  and  drawn 
upon  the  Imperial  family  in  Vienna.  The  five  thousand  dol- 
lars, howevtr,  he  could  not  send  me  until  nine  o'clock  p.m. 

I  had  not  yet  made  any  attempt  to  bribe  Palacios,  and  it 
was  agreed  between  myself  and  Villanueva  that  I  should  leave 
the  prison  at  eight  o'clock  p.m.,  and  request  Palacios  to  see 
me  home,  where  I  would  detain  him  until  ten  o'clock,  I  did 
not  live  then  in  the  hotel,  but  in  a  private  house  belonging  to 
Madame  Pepita  Vicentis,  the  widow  of  a  gentlemen  of  our 
party  v/ho  died  during  the  siege.  The  old  lady  was  extremely 
kind  to  our  prisoners,  and  undertook  to  provide  for  fifteen  uf 


212  Ten  Years  of  my  Life. 

them  all  the  time.  General  Echegaray  lived  in  the  same 
house. 

In  the  afternoon  I  had  a  very  long  conversation  with  the 
Emperor.  He  spoke  to  me  about  his  family  and  his  relations 
with  it,  how  unfortunately  he  was  situated,  and  what  he  in- 
tended to  do  when  he  came  to  Europe.  He  spoke  also  of  his 
mother  with  great  love,  and  requested  me  to  tell  her  so.  I  felt 
extremely  sad,  for  I  had  a  strong  presentiment  that  I  now  saw 
him  for  the  last  time.  . 

When  it  was  nearly  eight  o'clock  the  Emperor  gave  me  his 
signet  ring.  If  I  succeeded  with  Palacios  1  was  to  return  it  as 
a  token.  Then  I  left  with  a  very  heavy  heart  and  filled  with 
anxiety,  for  I  had  before  me  a  task  of  the  highest  importance, 
which  I  had  to  accomplish  with  very  insufficient  means — two 
bits  of  paper,  of  which  the  meaning  was  scarcely  known  to  the 
person  with  whom  I  had  to  deal. 

Colonel  Palacios  was  an  Indian  without  any  education,  who 
could  scarcely  read  or  write.  He  was  a  brave  soldier,  had  dis- 
tinguished himself,  and  won  the  confidence  of  his  superiors,  who 
employed  him  as  a  kind  of  provost-marshal,  who  had  to  super- 
intend military  executions.  He  had  a  young  wife,  who  had 
just  given  him  his  first  child,  in  whom  the  father  was  entirely 
wrapped  up  ;  and  as  he  was  poor,  I  hoped  that  his  care  for 
the  future  of  that  child  might  induce  him  to  entertain  my  pro- 
position. 

The  Colonel  saw  me  home.  1  invited  him  to  the  parlour. 
He  followed,  and  I  began  to  speak  of  the  Emperor,  in  order 
to  ascertain  how  he  ielt  in  reference  to  him,  and  whether  I  had 
any  chance  of  success.  He  said  that  he  had  been  a  great 
enemy  of  the  Emperor  ;  but  after  having  been  so  long  about 
him,  and  having  witnessed  how  good  and  nobly  he  behaved  in 
his  misfortune,  and  looked  in  his  true,  melancholy  blue  eyes, 
he  felt  the  greatest  sympathy,  if  not  love  and  admiration  ior 
him. 

After  this  introductory  conversation,  which  lasted  about 
twenty  minutes,  with  a  trembling  heart  I  came  to  the  point. 
It  was  a  most  thrilling  moment,  on  which  indeed  hung  the  liie 
or  death  of  a  noble  and  good  man,  who  was  my  friend  and 
Emperor.  I  said  that  I  had  to  communicate  to  him  something 
which  was  of  the  utmost  importance  to  both  of  us  ;  but,  before 
doing  so,  I  must  ask  him  whether  he  vaould  give  me  his  word 


TemiAation,  213 

ot  honour  as  an  officer  and  a  gentleman,  and  swear  by  the 
head  of  his  wife  and  child  not  to  divulge  to  anyone  what  I  was 
about  to  confide  to  him,  even  if  he  rejected  my  proposition. 
He  gave  me  his  word  of  honour,  and  most  solemnly  swore,  as 
I  desired,  by  the  life  of  his  wife  and  child,  whom  he  loved  be- 
yond anything  in  this  world. 

After  that  I  told,  him  [  knew  for  certain  that  the  Emperor 
would  be  condemned  to  be  shot,  and  that  he  would  be  shot  if 
he  did  not  escape.  I  had  arranged  this  escape  through  others, 
and  it  would  take  place  this  very  night  if  he  would  only  con- 
sent to  turn  his  back  and  close  his  'eyes  for  ten  minutes. 
Without  this  nothing  could  be  done  ;  we  were  entirely  in  his 
hands,  and  upon  him  now  depended  the  life  of  the  Emperor. 
Urged  by  the  necessity  of  the  situation,  I  must  speak  plainly 
to  him.  I  knew  he  was  a  poor  man.  He  had  a  wife  and 
child,  and  their  future  was  uncertain.  Now  an  opportunity  was 
offered  to  secure  them  a  good  competency.  I  ottered  him  here 
a  cheque  of  the  Emperor's  for  one  hundred  thousand  dollars  in 
gold,  which  would  be  paid  by  the  Imperial  family  of  Austria, 
and  five  thousand  dollars  I  should  receive  directly  for 
the  soldiers.  What  I  proposed  to  him  was  nothing  against 
his  honour,  as  in  accepting  it  he  best  served  his  country.  The 
death  of  the  Emperor  would  bring  all  the  world  in  arms  against 
it ;  but  if  the  Emperor  escaped  he  would  leave  the  country, 
and  no  European  Power  would  ever  meddle  with  the  arrange- 
ment of  their  affairs.  I  spoke  a  good  deal  more,  to  which  he 
listened  attentively,  and  I  saw  by  the  changes  in  his  counten- 
ance that  he  battled  hard  within  himself. 

At  last  he  spoke.  He  laid  his  hand  on  his  heart,  and  pro- 
tested that  he  felt  indeed  the  greatest  sympathy  with  Maximil- 
ian ;  that  he  really  believed  it  to  be  best  for  Mexico  to  let  him 
escape ;  but  he  could  not  decide  about  such  an  important  step 
in  five  minutes.  If  he  did,  he  could  not  accept  the  cheque. 
He  took  it,  however,  into  his  hand,  and  looked  at  it  with 
curiosity.  The  Indian,  probably  could  not  conceive  the  idea 
that  in  such  a  little  rag  of  paper,  with  some  scrawls  on  it,  should 
be  contained  a  life  of  plenty  for  his  wife  and  child.  A  bag  full 
of  gold  would  have  been  more  persuasive. 

He  handed  me  back  the  cheque,  observing  that  he  coiildnot 
accept  it  now.  He  would  reflect  upon  it  in  the  night,  and  tell 
me  his  decision  next  morning.     I  showed  him  the  signet  ring 


214  Ten  Yectrs  of  my  Life. 

of  the  Emperor,  told  him  what  it  meant,  and  requestea  hmi  to 
accept  it,  and  return  it  to  the  Emperor  at  night.  He  took  it 
and  put  it  on  his  finger ;  but  after  a  while  he  took  it  off  again 
remarking  that  he  could  not  accept  it.  He  must  ^-hink  it  all 
over.  He  became  confused,  and  wen  on  speaking  of  his 
honour,  of  his  wife,  and  his  child. 

'Well,  Colonel,'  said  I,  'you  are  not  well-disposed.  Re- 
flect about  it,  and  remember  your  word  oi  honour  and  your 
oath.  You  know  that  without  you  nothing  can  be  done,  and 
to  betray  me  would  serve  no  purpose  whatever.' 

Colonel  Villanueva  came  to  see  how  matters  went  on,  but 
without  betraying  that  he  was  in  the  secret.  Directly  after  him 
came  Dr.  Basch,  sent  by  the  Emperor,  but  without  any 
money ;  and  Palacios  left  me  about  ten  o'clock,  not  knowing 
whether  I  might  hope  or  not,  but  rather  inclined  to  hope.  I 
told  Dr.  Basch  I  believed  all  would  be  right,  but  that  I  should 
not  know  it  for  certain  before  the  morning. 

In  reference  to  the  two  cheques  which  the  Emperor  gave 
me  I  mention  a  circumstance  illustrating  the  character  of  the 
Austrian  minister.  Baron  Von  Lago.  The  Emperor  had  de- 
sired that  the  two  papers  might  be  signed  by  the  foreign  min- 
isters, especially  by  that  of  Austria,  who  were  so  free  with  their 
promises  of  money.  Dr.  Basch  was  entrusted  with  that  com- 
mission. When  he  entered  the  room  and  told  his  errand, 
Baron  Lago,  forgetting  all  his  diplomatic  dignity,  jumped  about 
the  room  like  a  rabbit  pursued  by  Jimmy,  tore  his  hair,  and 
cried  piteously,  '  We  cannot  sign  them  !  If  we  do  we  shall  all 
be  hanged!'  The  other  ministers  present,  though  less  undig- 
nified, remonstrated  also,  and  Baron  Lago,  whose  signature 
was  already  under  the  cheques,  for  he  had  signed  in  the  pre- 
sence of  the  Emperor,  took  courage  by  the  cowardice  of  his 
fellow  representatives,  and  resolutely  taking  a  pair  of  scissors 
he  cut  off  his  signature  ! 

When  Dr.  Basch  returned  with  the  mutilated  cheques  to  his 
master,  and  mentioned  the  fear  of  the  Baron  of  being  hanged, 
the  Emperor  said,  '  What  would  it  matter  if  he  were  hanged  ? 
The  world  would  not  lose  much  in  him.' 

When  Dr.  Basch  returned  from  my  house  after  my  conver- 
sation with  Palacios,  and  told  the  Emperor  what  he  had  heard 
from  me,  the  latter  seemed  to  be  afraid  that  I  would  be  swin- 
dled out  of  iny  cheques,  which  might   be    presented  after  he 


Betrayed.  21-3 

had  been  shot.  He  therefore  ordered  the  Doctor  to  bring  ni- 
next  morning  the  following  paper,  written  by  his  own  hand, 
which  I  will  give  here  as  an  autograph  : — 

*  Queretaro,  13  de  Juniode  1757. 

*Las  diOS  Whxznz'a.z  a  cien  mil  pesos  (\\xe.  firm^  hoy  para  los  Coroneles  Palacios 
y  Villanueva  y  que  deben  ser  pagados  por  la  casa  y  familia  Imperial  de 
Austria  en  Viena,  no  son  validas  que  al  dia  de  mi  completa  salvacion  de- 
bida  a  Jos  submencionados  Coroneles. 

*  Maximilianc' 

*  Queretaro,  June  13,  1867. 

*The  two  bills  o^  one  hundred  thoiisartd pesos  C2,ch.,  which  I  signed  to-day 
for  the  Colonels  Palacios  and  Villanueva,  to  be  paid  by  the  house  and 
Imperial  family  of  Austria  in  Vienna,  are  only  valid  on  that  day  when  I 
shall  regain  my  perfect  liberty  by  means  of  the  above-mentioned  Colonels. 

'Maximilian.' 

Colonel  Palacios  seems  to  have  reflected  on  my  propositions 
until  midnight ;  then  he  made  up  his  rnind,  and  went  accord- 
ingly to  Escobedo,  and  divulged  to  him  the  whole  affair. 


216 


CHAPTER  XV. 

Dr.  Basch  arrested  on  leaving  my  house — General  Escohedo  wishes  to  ?.ee 
me — A  grand  scene — A  furious  General  and  a  resolute  woman — What 
Escobedo  thought  of  the  great  Ministers — The  carriage  with  four 
mules  at  my  door — How  I  frighten  a  little  captain — Negotiaiions — ■ 
Getting  in  the  carriage — How  I  got  out  of  it — Villanueva—T  am 
brought  to  Santa  Rosas — Go  from  there  to  San  Luis— Lenience  of 
Mexican  Generals  against  attempts  to  escape — Reasons  for  it — How 
I  was  received  by  Mr.  Juarez  and  Mr.  Iglesia — Respite  of  three  days 
— What  Baron  Magnus  might  have  done  it  he  had  been  somebody 
else — My  last  pleading  for  the  Emperor's  life — Jaurez  wi\  only  grant 
that  of  my  husband — Madame  de  Miramon's  audience  w  fh  the  Presi- 
dent— Death  ot  the  Emperor — Mr.  Lerdo — Return  to  Queretaro — Go 
to  Mexico — Again  to  Queretaro — Salm's  prison  life — A  roguish  doctor 
— Transportation  ol  the  prisoners  to  Mexico — To  Vera  Cruz — My 
usband  in  Tehuacan— How  he  was  treated  by  Porfirio  Diaz  and 
General  Baz — Exertions  'or  the  release  ot  the  Prince — Success  On 
my  arrival  in  Vera  Cruz,  Salm  had  left  with  Baron  Magnus — My 
despair — Going  to  New  York  and  Washington — On  board  the  '  Ville 
de  Paris  '—Arrival  in  Europe. 

Before  I  was  up  next  morning  a  guard  was  placed  at  my 
house.  Everybody  who  went  in  was  permitted  to  pass,  but  on 
coming  out  he  was  arrested.  This  fate  was  unsuspected  by 
Dr.  Basch,  who  came  in  the  morning  on  the  part  of  the 
Smperor  to  bring  me  the  paper  mentioned  in  the  preceding 
chapter.  WHien  he  left  my  house  he  was  arrested  by  General 
Refugio  Gonzales. 

Two  servants  of  the  Emperor  came  with  the  message  that 
he  wished  to  see  me  immediately.  I  knew  then  already  that 
Colonel  Palacios  had  broken  his  word  of  honour,  and  that  Dr. 
Basch  had  been  arrested,  for  an  officer  of  Escobedo's  staff  sent 
me  this  news  ia  a  little  note,  which  I  destroyed.  I  prepared 
to  leave  my  house  as  if  I  knew  nothing. 


Escohedo  in  a  Passion.  217 

When  I  stepped  over  the  threshhold  General  Refugio  Gon- 
zales addressed  me^  grinning  over  his  whole  face,  and  told  me 
that  General  Escobedo  wished  to  see  me  immediately.  I 
replied  that  I  was  just  on  my  way  to  pay  him  a  visit. 

When  I  arrived  at  head-quarters,  I  was  led  into  a  large 
reception-room,  which  was  filled  with  a  great  many  ofiicers. 
Some  of  them  seemed  amused,  as  if  expecting  an  interesting 
scene ;  others  looked  with  compassion  on  me.  One  of  them 
approached  me  and  whispered,  '  All  is  lost   ' 

After  awhile  Escobedo  came.  He  looked  as  black  as  a 
thunderstorm.  In  a  polite  but  sarcastic  tone  he  observed, 
'  That  the  air  here  in  Queretaro  did  not  seem  to  agree  with 
me,  that  it  was  indeed  very  bad.'  I  assured  him  that  I  never 
felt  better  in  all  my  life ;  but  he  insisted  that  I  did  \  )t  look 
well  at  all !  He  had  a  carriage  ready,  and  an  escort  to  take 
me  to  San  Luis  Potosi,  where  I  should  feel  much  better. 

I  told  him  that  I  had  no  desire  whatever  to  go  there,  but 
thanked  him  much  for  his  kindness.  He  could  not  bear  this 
any  longer,  his  anger  over-mastered  hirn.  He  said  he  found  it 
so  extremely  wrong  in  me,  so  against  all  feeling  of  gratitude 
and  honour,  that  I,  after  he  had  shown  me  so  much  kindness 
and  treated  me  so  well,  tried  to  bribe  his  officers  and  to  bring 
him  into  an  embarrassing  position. 

•  I  have  done  nothing,  General,  of  which  I  need  be  ashamed 
and  what  you  yourself  would  not  have  done  in  my  position.' 

'  We  will  not  argue  that  point,  madame  ;  but  I  wish  you  to 
leave  Queretaro.' 

'  General,'  I  answered,  '  you  know  that  I  am  powerless  now, 
and  that  the  Emperor  is  lost.  But  my  husband  is  here  also, 
waiting  for  his  trial,  and  I  request  you  to  let  me  remain  here. 
Confine  me  in  prison,  or  m  my  room,  and  place  a  guard  over 
me,  if  you  will ;  I  will  remain  quiet.' 

The  General  would  not  listen  to  this  ;  he  was  too  angry,  and 
said  that  after  what  I  had  done  I  might  even  assassinate  his 
ofiicers. 

I  was  indignant  at  this,  and  told  him  that  he  had  no  right  to 
think  thus  of  me,  even  if  I  wished  to  sa.ve  my  husband  and  my 
Emperor. 

He  answered,  I  might  go  to  the  President  under  a  guard, 
and  plead  there  for  their  lives,  but  not  here.  I  was  not  the 
only  person  who  had  to  leave ;  the  foreign  ministers  had  re- 
ceived the  same  orders. 


218  *        Ten  Years  of  my  Life. 

*  But,  General,'  I  replied,  I  assure  you  the  ministers  had 
nothing  whatever  to  do  witl\  my  plan,  and  would  not  have 
dared  support  it.' 

'  I  know  that,'  he  said,  contemptuously  ;  'and  just  because 
they  are  such  cowards  they  may  go/ 

'  But,  General,  the  Emperor  will  then  be  utterly  alone,  and 
without  anyone  to  assist  him  in  his  last  arrangements.* 

'  What  good,'  he  burst  out,  *  can  such  old  women  be  to  a 
man  ?  Pretty  people  are  the  ministers  !  Two  of  them  have 
already  run  away  without  even  waiting  for  their  baggage.' 

These  two  frightened  representatives  were,  ot  course,  Baron 
Lago  and  Mr.  Hooricks.  All  the  officers  of  Escobedo  laughed 
at  them,  and  the  General  himself  told  me  later  in  Mexico,  that 
if  one  of  these  men  had  requested  him  to  see  the  Emperor  and 
take  leave  of  him,  he  would  not  and  could  not  have  refused. 
But  they  did  not  even  make  the  attempt,  and  Baron  Lago  ran 
off  with  the  codicil  to  the  Emperor's  last  will  unsigned  ! 

I  of  course  have  not  the  slightest  scruple  in  stating  that  I 
consider  the  behaviour  of  these  gentlemen  as  contemptible  as 
possible,  and  that  I  fully  subscribe  what  the  Emperor  said 
about  the  w/jrepresentative  of  Austria  ;  but  if  they  or  anyone 
else  should  doubt  that  General  Escobedo  expressed  himself  so 
undiplomatically  about  these  diplomatists,  I  appeal  to  the 
General  himself,  who  is  not  the  man  to  deny  what  he  said ; 
and  to  his  whole  staff,  who  heard  it,  and  especially  to  Colonel 
Doria. 

I  saw  nothing  was  to  be  done  at  present,  and  I  had  to  leave 
Escobedo's  head-quarters.  These  had  been  removed  long  ago 
from  the  Hacienda  de  Herecules  to  the  city,  and  were  only  a 
few  houses  from  mine  in  the  same  street.  As  I  saw  the  omin- 
ous carriage  with  four  mules  before  my  door,  I  went  there  of 
course,  expecting  that  time  would  be  granted  to  me  to  prepare 
and  go  upstairs.  I  was  about  entering  the  door  of  my  house, 
which  was  ajar,  when  a  little  captain,  who  escorted  me,  shut 
the  door,  and  made  a  movement  to  seize  my  arm.  This  exaspe- 
rated me.  I  felt  as  if  I  had  become  suddenly  six  inches  taller 
and  that  I  became  deadly  pale.  As  quick  as  lightning  I  drew  from 
under  my  dress  my  little  revolver,  and  pointing  it  at  the  breast 
of  the  horrified  captain,  I  cried,  '  Captain,  touch  me  with  one 
finger  and  you  are  a  dead  man  !' 

The  captain  protested  that  he  did  not  intend  any  force,  but 


A  FrigJdened  Captain.  219 

that  General  Escobedo  held  him  responsible,  and  that  he  was 
compelled  not  to  permit  me  to  go  out  of  his  sight.  I  told  the 
poor  little  fellow  that  he  might  accompany  me.  I  should  take 
my  time  to  prepare  and  pack  up,  and  I  was  in  a  rather  danger- 
ous humour.  I  told  him  then  to  go  where  he  liked.  I  would 
go  up,  and  up  I  went,  revolver  in  hand,  the  captain  following. 

I  wanted  to  gain  time,  in  hopes  '  that  something  might  turn 
up,'  and  declared  now  that  neither  I  nor  my  servant  understood 
packing.  I  must  have  some  one  who  could  do  it,  and  he 
might  try  to  get  one.  At  his  wits'  end,  the  captain  now  went 
back  to  General  Escobedo,  from  whom  he  returned,  after  about 
half  an  hour,  with  an  escort  of  six  men.  The  General  had  re- 
ceived him  very  badly,  and  said  he  would  put  him  under  ar- 
rest if  he  could  not  compel  me  to  go.  He  had  orders  to  bring 
me  to  Santa  Rosas  at  the  foot  of  the  Sierra  Gorda,  and  to  place 
me  there  in  the  diligence  for  San  Luis  Potosi. 

1  saw  now  that  nothing  more  could  be  done,  and  commenced 
packing,  when  a  servant  of  the  Emperor  came  with  a  messa^^e 
that  he  wanted  to  see  me  immediately.  I  requested  the  cap- 
tain to  let  me  write  a  few  lines  to  the  Emperor,  but  this  was 
refused,  and  the  servant  sent  out  of  the  room. 

I  caused  the  captain  to  send  to  Escobedo  for  permission  to 
take  leave  of  my  husband,  which  was  refused  also.  Then  I 
wanted  to  write  to  him,  and  was  at  last  permitted  to  send  off  a 
few  lines,  which  the  captain  dictated  to  me,  and  which  were 
delivered  to  my  husband.  Salm  did  not  understand  anything 
of  the  whole  business,  and  sent  me  rather  a  peremptory  note 
commanding  me  to  come  and  see  him. 

When  I  was  ready  with  my  packing  I  stepped  into  the  car- 
riage, followed  by  my  girl,  Jimmy,  and  a  small  trunk.  Some 
time  before  Colonel  Villanueva  had  arrived  ;  I  had  given  him 
the  two  cheques,  which  he  promised  to  return  to  the  Emperor, 
whom  he  would  see  immediately,  and  also  my  husband. 

I  suppose  the  Colonel  transmitted  some  order  to  the  cap- 
tain, and  when  I  had  taken  my  place,  and  the  coachman  was 
just  going  to  start,  he  told  the  man  to  drive  to  head-quarters. 

As  soon  as  I  heard  that  I  jumped  right  over  my  maid,  and 
trunk,  and  Jimmy,  out  of  the  carriage,  and  declared  that  I 
would  not  go  there :  that  I  did  not  want  to  see  Escobedo 
again,  and  be  exposed  to  his  sneering  remarks  and  those  of 
his  officers.     If  the  General  wished  to  see  me,  he  nught  come 


220  Ten  Years  of  my  Life. 

to  me.  The  captain  sang  again  his  song  of  instructions,  &:c., 
and  I  declared  positively  I  weuld  not  go  to  Escobedo.  At 
last  Colonel  Villanueva  interfered,  and  the  captain  promised 
to  wait  until  he  returned  with  other  instructions  from  the  Gen- 
eral, which  he  soon  did. 

Villanueva  related  afterwards  to  my  husband  this  whole 
scene,  which,  he  said,  had  amused  him  greatly,  though  certainly 
it  was  not  amusing  to  me,  for  I  was  in  a  towering  passion. 
Escobedo  had  laughingly  said,  when  the  Colonel  told  him  what 
a  fix  the  little  captain  was  in  with  me,  that  he  would  rather 
stand  opposite  a  whole  Imperial  battalion  than  meet '  the  angry 
Princess  Salm/  and  ordered  that  I  should  be  brought  at  once 
to  the  place  arranged.  Finding  him  so  reasonable  I  did  not 
offer  any  further  resistance,  and  re-entered  the  carriage. 

In  Santa  Rosas  I  was  quartered  in  a  comfortable  room,  in  a 
hacienda  belonging  to  one  of  the  Liberals,  by  whose  family  I 
was  treated  with  kindness.  Next  morning,  when  the  diligence 
passed,  I  found  places  taken  for  myself  and  maid,  and  an  offi- 
cer, in  citizen's  dress,  escorted  me.  That  gentleman  satisfied 
himself  with  keeping  me  in  view  ;  he  never  spoke  to  me,  and 
none  of  the  other  passengers  knew  that  he  was  my  guard. 

At  that  time  I  was  of  course  very  furious  against  General 
Escobedo ;  but  if  I  consider  what  I  attempted  to  do,  and  that 
I  was  by  no  means  yielding,  I  must  acknowledge  that  I  was 
treated  diroughout  with  great  forbearance  and  courtesy,  not 
only  by  General  Escobedo,  but  also  Mr.  Juarez,  his  minister, 
and  by  all  Mexicans  with  whom  I  came  in  contact.  Even  in 
the  United  States,  where  ladies  enjoy  considerable  preroga- 
tives, I  should  have  experienced  far  different  treatment,  as 
many  Confederate  ladies  will  testify. 

Having  gone  through  the  whole  late  French  war  with  the 
Prussians,  and  become  acquainted  with  their  views  in  reference 
to  discipline,  I  must  say  that  I  still  more  wonder  at  and  ad- 
mire the  lenience  of  the  Mexican  military  authorities  in  regard 
to  me.  I  must,  however,  say  a  few  words  in  explanation  of 
this  behaviour,  which  will  appear  rather  strange  to  German 
readers. 

Attempts  to  escape  occurred  very  frequently  in  these  civil 
wars,  where  it  happened  not  rarely  that  generals  became  pri- 
soners of  other  generals,  who  soon  again  became  their  prison- 
ers.    Endeavours  to  escape  were  considered  as  very  excusable 


San  Luis  Potosi.  221 

and  natural,  and  were  not  punished  with  too  much  severity  by 
the  Generals,  in  order  not  to  create  a  precedent  which  might 
perhaps  tell  against  themselves.  Escobedo  himself  had  once 
been  a  prisoner  of  Mejia,  and  condemned  to  be  shot  by  a 
court  martial ;  but  Mejia  had  not  only  assisted  him  in  his 
escape,  but  even  furnished  him  with  money  for  it.  What  Es- 
cobedo expected  his  own  friends  to  do  for  him,  he  could  not 
punish  too  severely  in  friends  of  the  Emperor,  and  he  was  sat- 
isfied with  making  such  attempts  impossible. 

When  I  arrived  at  San  Luis  Potosi,  my  guard  left  me. 
Alighting  at  an  hotel,  I  now  sent  for  Mr.  Bahnsen,  who  came 
and  kindly  invited  me  to  his  house.  I  wished  to  see  the 
President  the  same  evening,  but  was  told  to  come  the  next 
morning.  He  was,  however,  too  busy  to  receive  me,  and  sent 
Mr.  Iglesia,  to  whom  I  related  everything  which  caused  me  to 
be  exiled  to  San  Luis.  Mr.  Iglesia  said  he  knew  very  well 
that  they  had  many  rascals  at  Queretaro,  who  might  be  bought 
for  money.  He  agreed  that,  if  I  had  had  gold  ready,  my  plan 
would  have  succeeded. 

When,  in  the  course  of  the  conversation,  I  asked  him  to  tell' 
me  frankly,  whether,  in  his  inmost  heart,  he  would  not  have 
been  glad  if  the  Emperor  had  escaped,  he  smilingly  answered, 
^Yes,  I  should.' 

I  spoke  to  him  of  my  anxiety  with  recrard  to  my  husband, 
and  asked  whether  it  were  not  possible  that  I  might  return  to 
Queretaro  to  be  near  him.  He  advised  me  to  wait  awhile, 
until  after  the  execution  of  the  Emperor.  As  I  insisted  on 
seeing  Mr.  Juarez,  the  minister  told  me  to  come  at  five  o'clock 
in  the  afternoon. 

Although  I  had  planned  the  escape  of  the  Emperor,  Mr. 
Juarez  received  me  in  his  usual  manner.  I  commenced  by 
speaking  about  the  plan  for  the  Emperors  escape,  but  he  told 
me  that  he  knew  all,  and  evaded  answering  those  same  ques- 
tions I  had  put  to  Mr.  Iglesia,  but  his  whole  manner  impressed 
me  with  the  idea  that-  the  escape  of  the  Emperor  would  DOt 
have  been  very  disagreeable  to  him  either. 

Mr.  Juarez  told  me  that  I  should  have  to  remain  r.t  San 
Luis,  and  be  under  surveillance.  When  I  spoke  about  the 
Emperor  and  my  husband,  the  President  said  he  was  afraid 
that  nothing  could  be  done  for  the  Emperor,  and  that  he  must 
die  ;  but  as  for  my  husband  I  might  be  perfectly  satisfied  For 


222  Ten   Years  of  my  Life. 

the  moment  nothing  could  he  done,  but  even  if  lie  should  he 
condemned  to  death  he  would-not  be  executed,  on  which  he 
gave  me  his  hand  and  his  word  of  honour. 

The  Emperor  had  been  sentenced  to  death  at  the  time  I  wars 
on  the  road,  and  Vvas  to  be  shot  three  days  later.  Baron 
Magnus  was  still  in  San  Luis  when  I  reached  that  place.  He 
again  saw  the  President,  but  was  assured  that  nothing  could 
save  the  Emperor.  The  Baron  pleaded  for  another  delay  of 
three  days,  and  the  President  consented  only  because  Baron 
Magnus  wished  it,  and  because  he  did  not  desire  to  show 
extraordinary  haste  or  unnecessary  severity  ;  but  it  was  useless. 
The  Prussian  minister  w^as  so  perfectly  convinced  of  it  that, 
when  he  left  San  Luis  for  Queretaro,  he  took  a  physician  with 
him — to  embalm  the  Emperor  !  Now,  I  ask,  what  sense  was 
there  in  such  behaviour  ?  To  ask  for  a  respite  of  three  days 
under  such  a  conviction  was  an  act  not  only  of  sickly  weak- 
ness, but  of  cruelty  ;  for  it  could  not  but  inspire  the  poor 
Emperor  with  delusive  hopes,  which  made  their  final  failure 
far  more  difficult  to  bear.  The  only  excuse  I  have  for  the 
step  of  the  Baron  is  that  at  that  time  he  was  really  almost  unac- 
countable for  what  he  did,  for  he  w^as  walking  about  like  a  man 
who  had  lost  half  a  dozen  of  his  five  senses. 

Had  this  gentleman  remained  in  Queretaro  and  scrawled  his 
name  under  a  good  bill  of  exchange,  on  which  ready  gold 
would  have  been  provided  at  once,  instead  of  opening  his 
diplomatic  windbag  and  squandering  his  pinchbeck  coin  of 
valueless  words  in  San  Luis,  he  v/ould  have  saved  the  Emperor; 
the  Prussian  Court  would  have  rejoiced  in  paying  for  such  a 
purpose ;  decorations  of  all  sizes  would  have  been  showered 
upon  him,  and  he  would  have  earned  a  reputation  for  ever 
remembered  by  history,  instead  of  regretting  now  in  vain  what 
he  might  have  done,  '  if  he  had  known.' 

I  was  like  one  distracted  during  all  that  time,  and  day  and 
night  I  revolved  in  my  head  how  the  Emperor  might  still  be 
saved.  I  frequently  saw  Mr.  Iglesia,  but  each  time  I  left  him 
I  became  more  and  more  convinced  that  the  Emperor  was  lost 
beyond  hope.  Again  I  tried  to  obtain  another  delay  of  eight 
days,  on  better  grounds  than  those  of  Baron  Magnus,  though 
rather  weak  also,  until  I  should  receive  an  answer  from  Presi- 
dent Johnson,  whom  I  knew  well,  and  whom  I  would  urge  by 
telegraph  to  send  another  more   energetic   protest  against  the 


Fleading  for  the  Emperors  Life.  22 


execution  of  the  Emperor.  But  Mr.  Iglesia  told  me,  and  so 
did  President  Juarez  later,  that  a  further  delay  could  not  be 
granted,  and  that  they  regretted  much  to  have  yielded  to  the 
request  of  Baron  Magnus,  as  the  President  had  been  accused 
of  intentionally  prolonging  the  agony  of  the  Emperor,  a 
reproach  made  him  especially  by  the  foreigners,  who  called 
him  a  cruel,  revengeful,  and  barbarous  Indian. 

The  last  day  before  the  execution  now  came  ;  the  Emperor 
was  to  be  shot  on  the  following  morning.  Though  I  had  but 
little  hope,  I  was  resolved  to  make  another  effort,  and  to  appeal 
once  more  to  the  heart  of  that  man  on  whose  v/ill  depended 
the  life  of  the  Emperor,  whose  pale  face  and  melancholy  blue 
eyes,  which  impressed  even  a  man  like  Palacios,  were  con- 
stantly looking  at  me.  It  was  eight  o'clock  in  the  evening 
when  I  went  to  see  Mr.  Juarez,  who  received  me  at  once. 
He  looked  pale  and  suffering  himself.  With  trembling  lips  I 
pleaded  for  the  life  of  the  Emperor,  or  at  least  for  delay. 
What  I  blamed  in  a  man — in  Baron  Magnus — might  be  par- 
doned in  a  woman.  The  President  said  that  he  could  not 
grant  it ;  he  would  not  prolong  his  agony  any  longer ;  the 
Emperor  must  die  to-morrow. 

When  I  heard  these  cruel  words  I  became  frantic  with  grief. 
Trembling  in  every  limb  and  sobbing,  I  fell  down  on  my  knees 
and  pleaded  with  words  which  came  from  my  heart,  but  which 
I  cannot  remember.  The  President  tried  to  raise  me,  but  I 
held  his  knees  convulsively,  and  said  I  w^ould  not  leave  him 
before  he  had  granted  his  life.  I  saw  the  President  was  moved  ; 
he  as  well  as  Mr.  Iglesia  had  tears  in  their  eyes,  but  he 
answered  me  with  a  low  sad  voice,  "  I  am  grieved,  madame, 
to  see  you  thus  on  your  knees  before  me  ;  but  if  all  the  kings 
and  queens  of  Europe  were  in  your  place  I  could  not  spare 
that  life.  It  is  not  I  who  take  it,  it  is  the  people  and  the  law, 
and  if  I  should  not  do  its  will  the  people  would  take  it  and 
mine  also." 

In  my  raving  agony  I  exclaimed,  he  might  take  my  life  if 
blood  was  wanted.  I  was  a  useless  woman,  but  he  might 
spare  that  of  a  man  who  might  still  do  so  much  good  in 
another  country.  All  was  in  vain.  The  President  raised  me 
up,  and  repeated  to  me  that  the  life  of  my  husband  should  be 
spared  ;  that  was  all  he  could  do.  I  thanked  him  and  left. 
In  the  ante-room  were  more  than  two  hundred  ladies  of  San 


224  Ten   Years  of  my  Life. 

Luis  assembled,  who  came, also  to  pray  for  the  lives  of  the 
three  condemned — Maximilian,  Miramon,  and  Mejia.  They 
were  received,  but  had  no  more  success  than  myself  Later, 
Madame  JMiramon  came,  leading  in  her  hands  her  two  little 
children.  The  President  could  not  refuse  to  receive  her.  Mr. 
Iglesia  afterwards  told  me  that  it  was  a  most  heartrending 
scene  to  hear  the  poor  wife  and  the  innocent  little  ones  praying 
for  the  life  of  their  husband  and  father.  The  President,  he 
said,  suffered  equally  at  that  moment  from  being  under  the 
cruel  necessity  of  taking  the  life  of  a  noble  man  like 
Maximilian,  but  he  could  not  do  otherwise.  Madame 
Miramon  fainted  and  was  carried  out  of  the  room. 

The  trying  scenes  through  which  the  President  had  gone 
that  day  were  too  much  for  him.  He  retired  for  three  days 
to  his  room  and  would  not  see  anyone.  I  could  not  close  my 
eyes  that  night,  and  went  with  many  other  ladies  of  our  party 
to  church  to  pray  for  the  condemned. 

In  the  course  of  the  morning  the  telegraph  conveyed  the 
sed  news  that  the  execution  had  taken  place,  and  that  all  was 
over. 

In  the  evening  I  went  to  see  Madame  Miramon.  She  was 
so  much  changed  that  I  scarcely  recognised  her.  She  told  me 
that  she  would  stay  a  few  days  quietly  at  San  Luis,  until  she 
had  recovered  strength  enough  to  travel  to  Queretaro  and 
receive  the  body  of  her  husband.  I  much  desired  to  return  to 
that  city  also,  and  gave  a  great  deal  of  trouble  to  Mr.  Lerdo 
and  Mr.  Iglesia,  for  scarcely  one  day  passed  that  I  did  not 
importune  them  by  my  visits. 

Mr.  Lerdo  was  the  right-hand  man  of  Mr.  Juarez,  and  enjoyed 
not  only  his  perfect  confidence,  but  had  also  the  reputation  of 
being  a  great  politician.  He  does  not  look  at  all  like  a  Mexican, 
for  he  is  fair  and  has  blue  eyes.  He  is  a  very  refined  gentleman 
and  most  exquisitely  polite.  I  had  written  to  my  husband  to 
ask  the  permission  of  Escobedo  for  my  return,  and  as  he  granted 
it,  the  President  yielded  to  my  repeated  request,  but  I  had  to 
give  him  my  word  of  honour  that  I  would  not  engage  in  any 
enterprise  to  assist  in  the  escape  of  my  husband  or  any  other 
prisoner. 

On  July  I,  I  arrived  in  Queretaro,  and  went  again  to  the 
nouse  of  Madame  Vicentis,  tliough  she  was  absent.  My  hus- 
band looked  thin  and  pale,  and  was,  as  is  almost  always  the 


Conflicting  Uiiraours.  225 

case  with  prisoners,  very  impatient  and  excitable.  He  had 
still  fresh  in  his  memory  the  death  of  the  Emperor,  and  would 
not  believe  either  in  the  promises  or  the  word  or  honour  of  the 
*  blood-thirsty  Indian.'  He  thought  of  nothing  but  escape, 
and  in  that  I  could  and  n'ould  not  assist  him,  even  when  his 
trial  was  near  at  hand,  and  everybody  was  certain  that  he 
would  be  condemned.  I  believed  in  the  assurances  of  Juarez, 
Lerdo,  and  Iglesia,  who  had  told  me  that  he  and  the  other 
Generals  would  be  condemned  to  death  only  to  satisfy  the  peo- 
ple, but  that  only  some  of  them,  if  any,  would  be  shot,  and  my 
husband  certainly  would  be  saved. 

As  in  his  excusably  angry  feelings  Salm  was  not  very  amiable 
with  the  officers  who  guarded  him,  he  could  not  expect  much 
kindness  from  them.  Difficulties  of  all  kinds  were  placed  in 
the  way  of  my  seeing  him,  and  the  Liberal  officers  found  a 
pleasure  in  spreading  alarming  reports  only  to  torment  the 
prisoners. 

Prejudiced  as  my  husband  was,  he  believed  those  rumours 
more  than  my  assurances,  and  made  me  feel  uncertain  aiid 
anxious.  When  his  trial  came  on  it  was  thought  best  that  I 
should  go  to  Mexico,  where  Mr.  Juarez  and  the  whole  Cabinet 
were  at  that  time,  and  I  accordingly  set  off  about  the  12th  o£ 
July. 

In  Mexico  the  rumour  was  current  that  all  the  prisoners 
would  be  shot,  and  I,  like  many  other  relations  of  them,  felt 
great  anxiety  in  consequence.  About  twenty  wives  and  sisters 
of  prisoners  went  to  see  the  President,  who  sent  us  Mr.  iL^lesia, 
by  whom  we  were  told  that  a  delay  of  two  weeks  had  been 
granted.  The  minister  repeated  to  me  the  assurances  made 
before,  and  advised  me  to  remain  quietly  in  Mexico  until  it 
had  been  decided  where  the  prisoners  were  to  be  confined, 
then  he  would  assist  me  in  managing  that  my  husband  should 
come  to  Mexico. 

The  decision  did  not  come  for  a  long  time,  as  all  the  papers 
of  the  different  prisoners  had  to  be  examined  again;  and  as 
Mr.  Hube  advised  me  also  to  wait,  I  remained  meanwhile  with 
his  family  in  Tacubaya.  At  last,  in  September,  it  was  ordered 
that  the  prisoners  should  remain  in  Queretaro,  and  I  started 
the  same  night  for  the  city,  v/here  I  arrived  on  September  8. 

My  husband  and  all  the  other  Generals  imprisoned  with  him 
had   been  condemned  to  be  shot    in   July.     Their  execution 


226  Ten  Years  of  my  Life. 

which  was  to  take  place  on  the  19th,  was  first  postponed  for 
five  days,  and  then  sine  die.  ,  As  I  knew  for  certain  that  my 
husband  would  not  be  shot  I  did  not  feel  much  anxiety,  and 
remained  in  Mexico  ;  but  he  did  not  trust  my  assurances,  and 
even  provided  for  the  embalming  of  his  body. 

Though  I  brought  with  me  an  especial  permit  from  the 
Secretary  of  War  to  see  my  husband  whenever  I  liked,  all 
kinds  of  difficulties  were  placed  in  my  way,  and  my  visits  made 
as  disagreeable  as  possible.  By  the  intercession  of  a  German 
who  served  in  the  Liberal  army,  Colonel  von  Gagern,  this  was 
altered  for  the  better,  and  to  the  kindness  of  this  worthy  officer 
my  husband  and  the  other  prisoners  owed  very  much.  The 
Prince  "Ivas  even  permitted,  on  giving  his  word  of  honour,  to 
go  now  and  then  in  the  city,  and  I  could  remain  with  him  in 
prison  until  ten  o'clock  in  the  evening. 

The  citizens  of  Queretaro  behaved  very  kindly  towards  the 
prisoners,  and  supported  them  by  providing  for  their  meals, 
and  other  comforts.  My  husband  has  described  his  prison 
life  in  his  book,  and  as  I  could  but  ropy  him  I  shall  pass  over 
this  period  of  my  stay  in  Queretaro,  and  only  mention  my 
rather  curious  transactions  with  the  physician  who  had  em- 
balmed the  Emperor. 

It  is  well  known  what  difficulties  the  Liberal  Government 
placed  in  the  way  of  those  persons  who  were  sent  to  fetch  the 
body  of  the  poor  Emperor.  But  not  only  the  Government 
speculated  with  the  body, — Dr.  Licca,  who  had  embalmed  him, 
did  the  same.  This  doctor  had  made  a  plaster  of  Paris  cast 
from  the  face  of  the  Emperor,  and  Dr.  Basch  wrote  to  my  hus- 
band to  procure  it  for  him.  He  commissioned  me  to  speak  to 
the  doctor,  and  I  went  accordingly  to  see  him. 

.  This  doctor  was  a  low,  mercenary  wretch,  who  already  had 
made  his  name  infamous  by  betraying  General  Miramon,  and 
by  the  brutal  manner  in  which  he  treated  the  body  of  the 
Emperor.  When  he  plunged  his  knife  into  the  corpse,  he  said, 
'  What  a  delight  it  is  for  me  to  be  able  to  wash  my  hands  in 
the  blood  of  an  Emperor  T 

This  man  had  retained  all  the  clothes  which  the  Emperor 
wore  when  he  was  shot,  part  of  his  hair,  beard,  &c.,  and  was 
waiting  for  a  purchaser  of  these  relics.  He  asked  me  twenty 
thousand  pesos  for  them,  and  I  requested  him  to  make  a 
written  inventory  of  all  the  things  he  had,  and  also  the   price 


The  Prisoners  leave  Queretaro.  227 

he  asked  for  them.  Probably  to  bribe  me  he  gave  me  part  of 
the  Emperor's  hair  and  beard,  and  a  piece  of  the  red  silk  sash 
which  was  saturated  with  his  blood  ;  and  to  my  husband  he 
sent  a  piece  of  the  Emperor's  heart  in  alcohol,  and  a  bullet 
which  was  found  in  the  body.  I  spoiled,  however,  the  specu- 
lation of  this  wretch,  by  showing  the  inventory  he  gave  me  to 
Admiral  Tegethoff  and  President  Juarez.  He  was  sued  for 
trying  to  sell  what  did  not  belong  to  him,  and  coiidemned  by 
the  court. 

On  the  morning  of  the  8th  of  October  the  order  arrived  that 
the  prisoners  were  to  be  transported  from  Queretaro  to  their 
different  places  of  detention,  namely,  Oaxaca  and  Vera  Cruz. 
On  the  9th,  at  one  o'clock,  p.m.,  they  left  under  an  escort, 
and  on  parting  the  inhabitants  of  Queretaro  presented  them 
with  all  kinds  of  eatables,  and  showed  their  sympathy  in  a 
very  affecting  manner. 

I  followed  with  the  wife  of  Colonel  Diaz  and  Colonel  von 
Gagern  in  the  diligence,  and  met  the  prisoners  on  the  loth  in 
San  Juan  del  Rio.  There  I  took  breakfast  with  my  husband, 
and  went  to  Mexico  in  advance  of  him. 

Tile  prisoners  were  placed  there  first  in  the  common  house 
of  correction,  and  all  visitors  excluded  ;  but  this  was  altered 
in  a  few  days  and  they  were  transferred  to  the  convent  of 
Santa  Brigida,  where  they  were  very  well  quartered,  and  where 
they  received  a  great  many  visitors,  who  all  brought  them 
flowers,  fruit,  cigars,  and  other  comforts. 

I  and  friends  of  my  husband  exerted  ourselves  with  all 
persons  of  influence  to  bring  about  a  change  in  his  position. 
If  we  could  not  persuade  the  authorities  to  exile  instead  of 
imprisoning  him,  we  would  try  at  least  to  retain  him  in  Mexico, 
instead  of  sending  him  to  Oaxaca.  Salm,  however,  who  did 
not  think  that  this  would  be  granted,  wished  at  least  to  be  per- 
mitted to  go  to  Vera  Cruz,  because  he  believed  that  escape 
from  there  would  be  easier  than  from  a  place  in  the  interior. 

On  the  24th  of  October,  in  the  morning  betweeen  five  and 
six,  I  received  a  note  from  my  husband,  informing  me  that  the 
prisoners  Avere  to  be  transferred  at  once  to  Oaxaca  and  Vera 
Cruz.  Their  departure  had  been  kept  secret  in  order  to  pre- 
vent their  many  friends  from  showing  their  sympathy.  I 
arrived  in  the  convent  when  they  had  already  left,  but  overtook 
them  at  the  garita.    They  were  transported  through  the  streets 


228  Ten   Years  of  my  Life. 

not  like  generals  and  prisoners  of  war,  but  like  convicts, 
marching  between  an  escort  'oC  cavalry  by  two  and  two,  my 
husband  and  old  General  Castilio  arnvin-arm  at  their  head. 
Their  miserable  condition  affected  me  so  much  that  I  v/ept 
aloud. 

All  the  precautions  taken  by  the  authorities  had  not  been 
able  to  prevent  many  ladies  from  collecting  at  the  railway  sta- 
tion to  say  farewell  to  them.  As  I  could  not  accompany  tne 
prisoners  on  their  march,  and  moreover  as  my  presence  in 
Mexico  was  necessary  in  the  interest  of  my  husband,  I  took 
leave  of  him  also,  hoping  to  see  him  soon  released,  and  to  de- 
part with  him  to  Europe  from  Vera  Cruz. 

In  Tehuacan,  tlie  head-quarters  of  Porfirio  Diaz,  my  husband 
was  very  amiably  received  by  General  Baz,  chief  of  the  staff, 
who  told  him  that  he  had  been  strongly  recommended  to  the 
Commanding  General  from  Mexico.  Porfirio  Diaz  treated  him 
indeed  very  kindly.  My  husband  was  allowed  to  go  about  in 
the  town  as  he  pleased,  and  dined  with  the  General  and  his 
flimily.  When  he  left  after  two  days  of  rest  Porfirio  Diaz  gave 
him  letters  of  recommendation  to  two  generals  in  Vera  Cruz, 
for  he  had  received  permission  to  go  there  instead  of  to 
Oaxaca. 

In  Vera  Cruz  my  husband,  with  the  other  Generals,  was  de- 
tained in  the  casemates  of  the  Fort  San  Juan  d'UUoa,  situate 
on  an  island  near  that  city. 

In  my  task  to  work  for  his  release  I  was  kindly  assisted  by 
all  the  Americans  from  the  North  and  the  South  living  in 
Mexico,  and  I  have  especially  to  thank  Mr.  A.  P.  Perry,  the 
correspondent  of  the  '  New  York  Herald  ; '  Dr.  Skelton  ;  and 
above  all  the  new  Charge  d'Affaires  of  the  United  States  in 
Mexico,  Mr.  Plumb,  who  was  instructed  by  Mr.  Seward,  wlio 
knew  my  husband  very  well,  to  intercede  for  him  with  the 
Mexican  Government.  President  Johnson  caused  Mr.  Seward 
to  write  a  private  letter  to  Mr.  Juarez  in  reference  to  the  Prince, 
and  told  me  later,  when  I  saw  him  in  Washington,  that  it  was 
done  in  consequence  of  my  several  letters  to  him. 

Admiral  Tegethoff  had  also  interested  himself  for  the  Prince 
and  in  the  middle  of  November  he  sent  me  a  card  of  con- 
gratulation, as  Minister  Lerdo,  with  whom  he  had  dined,  had 
informed  him  that  the  President  had  just  signed  the  release  oi 
my  husband. 


Departure  for  Europe.  229 

This  release  was  taken  by  Baron  Magnus  to  Vera  Cruz,  and 
communicated  on  November  13  to  my  husband,  with  the 
request  to  report  to  the  commander  of  the  city.  The  Prince 
intended  to  leave  for  Europe  in  the  English  steamer  sailing  on 
December  3,  and  telegraphed  for  me  to  come.  1  answered 
that  I  would  be  with  him  in  four  days. 

When  Salm  reported  to  the  commander  of  Vera  Cruz,  this 
gentleman  insisted  on  his  leaving  by  the  next  steamer,  the 
'  Panama,' which  started  on  November  15,  at  eleven  o'clock 
A.M.,  and  to  his  great  regret  he  had  to  obey  orders. 

My  despair  may  be  imagined  when  I  arrived  the  following 
day. 

I  resolved  not  to  return  to  Mexico,  though  I  had  left  there 
all  my  things,  and  not  to  wait  in  Vera  Cruz  for  the  next  Euro- 
pean steamer  either,  but  to  sail  at  once  in  a  little  French 
steamer  to  New  Orleans,  and  from  there  to  New  York,  where 
I  hoped  to  procure  means  to  go  as  soon  as  possible^to  Europe, 
lor  I  had  very  little  money. 

It  was  a  rather  disagreeable  voyage,  for  coming  from  a  hot 
climate  I  had  no  clothes  suitable  for  a  cold  country;  and 
arriving  in  the  Metropolitan  Hotel,  in  New  York,  I  had  to 
keep  in  my  room  until  some  were  made  for  me. 

1  was  quite  astonished  at  the  reception  I  had  in  New  York. 
When  my  arrival  was  made  known  in  the  papers  I  received  an 
immense  quantity  of  bouquets  from  everywhere,  and  wherever 
I  showed  myself,  in  the  hotel  or  in  the  street,  people  crowded 
and  cheered  me.  I  was  much  affected  by  this  unexpected 
show  of  sympathy. 

From  New  York  I  went  to  Washington  to  see  my  sister,  and 
also  President  Johnson,  and  other  persons  who  had  assisted 
my  husband,  to  thank  them. 

Though  I  required  some  rest  after  so  much  trouble  and  ex- 
citement, I  longed  to  join  my  husband,  and  after  having  pro- 
cured the  money  I  required,  I  left  New  York  for  Brest,  on 
December  28,  on  board  the  '  Ville  de  Paris.* 


TEN   YEARS    OF    MY   Llt'E. 


IN   EUROPE. 


232 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

Brest — First  impressions — A  four-legged  baby — Paris — Castle  Anholt — ■ 
Prince  Alfred — -His  family— Our  position — ^Journey  to  Vienna — • 
Audience  with  tlie  Emperor  of  Austria — Result — Salm  in  the  hands 
of  his  old  enemies — Flight — My  audience  with  the  mother  of  Maxi- 
milian— Her  present— Munich — Countess  Salm-Hoegstraeten — Re- 
turn to  Westphalia— Princess  Minna — -Prince  Alfred  dangerously  ill 
— Rheingrafenstein — von  Stein — Meeting  with  Corvins  in  Rorschach 
— Castle  Wiggen — The  Rorschach  Hill — The  Lake  of  Constance — 
Mrs.  Raggebas — Visitors — A  visit  to  Combe  Varin — Professor 
Edward  Desor — Baron  H.  and  wife — A  Russian  Baron  and  his 
daughter — Prince  Hohenzollern — At  the  Weinburg — Olf  to  Berlin. 

To  travel  alone  several  tliqusand  miles  is  a  very  heavy  task 
for  a  young  woman,  especially  if  encambered  by  a  dog,  whom 
nobody  would  any  longer  call  a  little  dog,  and  which,  in  fact, 
weighed  nearly  twenty  pounds  and  had  distressingly  long  legs. 
Little  children  are  great  encumbrances  in  travelling,  but  they 
are  at  least  looked  upon  as  pardonable  nuisances  ;  whilst  a  dog 
is  persecuted  by  railway  and  diligence  conductors,  and  even 
captains  of  steamers,  with  a  zeal  approaching  fanaticism.  A 
baby  may  be  shown  openly — and  this  is  rather  the  pleasant 
side  of  baby  transportation — conductors  cannot  object ;  whilst 
a  dog  must  be  carefully  concealed  from  the  lynx  eyes  of  prying 
conductors,  wljo  will  not  always  be  appeased  by  pleading 
words,  even  if  accompanied  by  more  persuasive  silver.  If 
Jimmy  could  write  his  memoirs  his  book  would  be  read  with 
great  sympathy,  not  only  by  the  whole  canine  tribe,  but  also 
by  all  ladies  who  cherish  a  four-legged  pet. 

New  Year's  Day  on  board  the  '  Ville  de  Paris  '  was  a  most 
miserable  day,  for  the  weather  was  extremely  rough  and  every 
body  was  sea-sick,  myself  and  Jimmy  included. 

We  arrived  on  January  6,   1868,  in  Brest;  where  I  went  to 


A  Four-legged  Bahy.  233 

the  Hotel  Lamarque.  I  sent  at  once  a  despatch  to  Felix  and 
his  trother,  and  was  very  much  disappointed  on  receiving  next 
day  the  news  that  my  husband  was  prevented  from  coming  for 
me  to  Brest,  but  that  he  expected  me  in  Paris. 

I  was  of  course  in  a  very  bad  humour,  and  it  may  be 
ascribed  to  this  circumstance  that  the  first  impressions  which 
Europe  made  on  me  was  by  no  means  favourable.  Everything 
appeared  to  me  extremely  small  in  comparison  with  what  I  had 
left  in  America.  The  rivers  looked  all  like  miserable  creeks,  the 
mountains  like  mole-hills,  and  the  trees  like  toys.  The  people 
in  the  hotel  were,  however,  very  kind,  and  assisted  me  to  the 
best  of  their  ability.  The  landlady  accompanied  me  next 
morning  to  the  depot,  to  facilitate  difficulties  which  possibly 
might  occur  in  reference  to  Jimmy,  as  dogs  were  severely  pro- 
hibited in  first-class  carriages.  To  submit  the  noble  dog  to 
the  ignominy  of  the  dogs'  quarters  in  the  train  was  revolting  to 
all  my  feelings,  and  in  order  to  protect  him  against  such  a  de- 
grading position  he,  with  the  help  of  the  landlady,  had  been 
dressed  up  as  a  baby,  and  a  thick  veil  covering  his  dear  long 
snout  concealed  him  before  the  sharp  eyes  of  the  railroad 
guards.  The  young  lonely  mother  found  sympathy  with  them, 
and  I  had  a  coi/pe  all  to  myself 

I  arrived  in  Paris  on  January  9,  at  one  o'clock  a.m.,  and 
found  at  the  depot  my  dear  husband  waiting  tui  me.  In  the 
pleasure  of  the  meeting  1  forgot  myself,  and  the  guard  dis- 
covered that  my  baby  had  four  legs.  He  seemed  very  much 
alarmed,  but  a  Napoleon  calmed  his  fears,  and  we  drove  away 
very  happy. 

We  intended  to  leave  Paris  on  the  same  night  for  Schloss 
Anholt,  the  residence  of  Alfred,  Prince  Salm-Salm,  Felix's 
elder  brother.  We  were,  however,  detained  a  day  longer, 
having  to  make  many  purchases. 

Paris  pleased  me  very  much,  though  it  presented  itself  under 
very  unfavourable  circumstances,  for  the  weather  being 
extremely  bad  a  gloom  was  spread  over  everytliing. 

On  leaving  Paris  for  Schloss  Anholt,  in  Westphalia,  it  was 
only  natural  that  I  felt  somewhat  nervous.  Though  Felix  had 
assured  me  that  I  should  be  received  most  kindly  by  his  whole 
family,  I  had  still  some  apprehensions,  fearing  the  formal  and 
ceremonious  stiffness  which  I  imagined  to  be  inseparable  from 
all  Prussian  families. 


2o-i  Ten   Years  of  my  Life. 

We  arrived  in  Anholt  on  January  ii,  at  ten  o'clock  a.m., 
and  all  my  fears  were  speedily  removed  by  the  very  kind  man- 
ner in  which  I  was  received  by  my  husband's  brother  and  his 
numerous  family. 

Prince  Alfred  zu  Salm-Salm,  Duke  of  Hoegstraeten,  Rhein 
and  Wildgraf,  «S:c.,  &c. — all  his  titles  may  be  seen  in  the  Al- 
manac of  Gotha — is,  notwithstanding  all  his  pompous  titles,  a 
very  simple,  unpretending,  kind,  and  very  polite  man,  who 
did  not  look  upon  me  as  a  stranger,  but  treated  me  from  the 
first  moment  as  a  sister,  so  that  I  felt  at  once  at  home. 

Schloss  Anholt  is  an  extremely  old,  extensive,  imposing- 
looking  Castle,  built  around  a  tower,  which  stood  there  before 
the  Christian  era,  having  been  erected  by  the  Romans.  The 
whole  Castle  is  like  Amsterdam,  built  on  wooden  piles,  which 
have  become  like  stone  in  the  course  of  time.  The  whole 
ground  around  is  swampy,  and  by  digging  only  one  foot  deep 
water  is  to  be  found.  The  Castle  is  surrounded  by  a  splendid 
park,  which  is  improving  every  year,  and  protected  by  a  moat 
with  drawbridges,  which  are  drawn  up  every  night. 

The  house  contains  very  fine  halls,  with  an  armoury  and 
other  relics  of  olden  times,  and  above  one  hundred  rooms.^  All 
this  is  very  fine  and  noble,  but  it  did  not  altogether  correspond 
with  the  ideas  I  had  about  a  princely  palace.  Used  to  the 
luxurious  dwellings  of  the  rich  people  of  North  America, 
everything  appeared  to  me  somewhat  primitive  and  as  it  were 
uncivilised.  I  wondered  at  the  uncarpeted  staircases  and 
rooms,  where  only  patches  here  and  there  covered  the  dark 
oaken  flooring,  which  was  made  so  slippery  by  beeswaxing 
that  I  found  difficulty  in  walking,  and  really  fell  down  on 
entering  my  bedroom. 

There  do  not  exist  in  North  America  such  feudal  dwellings, 
and  as  there  are  no  feudal  ideas  to  be  found  either,  I  did  not 
look  exactly  with  the  same  feelings  of  pride  and  satisfaction  on 
this  simplicity  as  the  members  of  the  family.  Modern  elegant 
dwellings,  however,  may  be  procured  by  every  rich  cheese- 
monger, but  such  grand  halls,  solid  staircases,  &c.,  are  to  be 
found  only  in  the  seats  of  noble  old  families. 

If  I  felt  somewhat  disappointed  in  reference  to  Castle  An- 

1  The  picture  gallery  is  extremely  fine,  and  in  it  are  to  he  found  highly 
valuable  originals  of  Correggio,  Rubens,  and  other  ceLjbrated  old  masters. 


Sahn's  Position.  235 

holt,  the  people  living  there  all  did  their  best  to  make  me  com- 
fortable and  feel  at  home.  Prince  Alfred,  though  Prince  and 
Dnke,  did  not  differ  in  his  manner  and  behaviour  from  other 
well-bred  gentlemen,  and  his  daughters  were  quite  natural, 
kind,  and  good-hearted  girls,  with  no  stupid  pride  or  any  other 
nonsense  about  them. 

The  household  of  the  Prince  was  carried  on  in  a  style  be- 
coming his  position  ;  ever)'thing  was  well  regulated  and  agree- 
able. The  weather  was  not  very  favourable,  and  the  family 
were  mostly  confined  to  the  Castle,  where  we  passed  the  time 
with  home  occupations  and  amusements.  My  brother-in-law 
taught  me  how  to  play  at  billiards  and  his  daughters  how  to 
spin,  which  afforded  me  much  pleasure. 

When  the  weather  permitted,  we  had  a  ride  on  horseback, 
or  in  a  pony-chaise,  or  a  walk  to  a  neighbouring  farm,  where 
we  took  coffee.  Felix  and  his  brother  went  out  shooting 
hares,  and  I  joined  them  occasionally  with  my  fowling-piece, 
and  sometimes  succeeded  well.  In  a  word,  we  led  a  quiet 
country  life,  which  was  to  me  very  pleasant  after  the  exciting 
scenes  I  had  gone  through,  but  of  which  but  little  of  interest 
could  be  said  without  entering  into  details. 

The  future  of  my  husband  occupied  Prince  Alfred  a  good 
deal.  Though  Felix  might  have  lived  to  the  end  of  his  life  in 
Castle  Anholt,  such  an  idle  and  dependent  existence  would 
not  have  suited  either  him  or  me,  and  it  was  his  great  desire  to 
enter  the  army  again.  Felix  had  served  before  both  in  the 
Austrian  and  Prussian  army,  and  it  deserved  some  considera- 
tion where  he  would  have  the  best  chances.  His  sympathies 
were  entirely  with  Prussia,  but  having  once  left  that  service 
when  still  a  very  young  officer,  it  \v\as  rather  doubtful  whether 
he  would  find  there  a  position  he  could  accept  in  his  advanced 
age,  after  having  occupied  places  of  some  importance.  In 
Austria  his  chances  seemed  to  be  better ;  he  had  been  the  chief 
of  the  household  of  the  Emperor  Maximilian,  had  been  distin- 
guished by  him  especially,  and  been  his  companion  in  prison. 
Moreover,  the  late  Emperor  had  remembered  him  in  his  last 
will,  and  expressed  otherwise  confidence  and  love  towards  my 
husband.  It  was  therefore  reasonable  to  expect  that  he  would 
be  favourably  received  by  the  Imperial  brother  of  his  late 
friend  and  Emperor. 

There  existed,  however,  still  other  difficulties,  which  were 


23G  Ten   Years  of  my  Life. 

by  no  means  easy  to  conquer,  and  which  were  not  only  fraught 
with  danger,  but  attended  by  circumstances  of  an  especially 
unpleasant  and  annoying  character. 

I  mentioned  the  reasons  which  caused  my  husband  to  leave 
Europe — his  debts.  These  debts  were  not  paid  yet,  and  were 
not  forgotten  either  by  his  creditors.  Though  these  people 
had  given  up  nearly  all  hope  of  ever  recovering  them  when  my 
husband  went  to  America,  their  hope  was  again  revived  by  his 
return,  which  became  known  through  the  papers  in  connection 
with  reports  which  still  strengthened  these  hopes.  It  was  said 
that  the  Emperor  Maximilian  had  left  a  legacy  to  my  husband, 
and  on  this  his  creditors  speculated.  It  would  have  been  easy 
to  come  to  an  arrangement  with  them  as  long  as  my  husband 
was  still  in  Mexico,  but  this  having  been  neglected,  his  return 
made  such  an  arrangement  far  more  difficult.  Some  of  these 
creditors  addressed  his  brother,  and  though  Prince  Alfred  was 
much  inclined  to  do  a  great  deal  for  him,  he  could  not  think  of 
satisfying  their  extravagant  demands,  as  he  had  himself  a  rather 
large  family,  and  besides  knew  very  well  in  what  manner  these 
debts  had  been  contracted,  and  how  shamelessly  some  of  these 
usurers  and  sharpers  had  profited  by  the  extravagance  and 
carelessness  of  his  young  brother. 

Before  coming  to  any  decision  in  this  serious  matter  and 
taking  any  steps,  it  was  necessary  to  ascertain  what  chances  my 
husband  might  have  in  reference  to  his  future  career. 

It  was  therefore  agreed  between  Felix  and  his  brother  that 
the  former  should  go  to  Vienna.  He  wished  to  go  there  alone, 
leaving  me  behind  in  Anholt,  which,  however,  did  not  suit  me. 
I  had  promised  the  poor  Emperor  to  see  his  mother.  Arch- 
duchess Sophie,  and  I  was  anxious  to  fulfil  my  promise.  The 
opposition  of  my  husband  was  overruled  by  Prince  Alfred,  and 
both  of  us  left  for  Vienna  on  February  14. 

The  weather  was  extremely  fine,  and  the  journey  pleased  me 
much,  for  I  saw  for  the  first  time  the  Rhine  and  its  beautiful 
scenery.  Westphalia  is  not  the  most  favourable  part  of  Ger- 
many, but  our  road  led  through  countries  which  pleased  me 
far  better,  and  reconciled  me  to  the  fatherland  of  my  husband, 
my  future  home. 

Arriving  in  Vienna  we  alighted  at  an  old,  very  good  hotel  in 
a  narrow  street,  the  Archduke  Charles.  I  was  extremely 
pleased  with  Vienna,  which  is  indeed  a  most  beautiful  city, 
with  charming  surroundings. 


^xuaience  luith  Emperor  of  Austria.  2o7 

Next  day  a  nephew  of  my  husband,  Prince  Alfred,  dined 
with  us.  He  was  then  an  otHcer  in  the  Austrian  army. 
Another  of  the  sons  of  my  husband's  brother  was  an  officer  in 
Prussia.  I  said  before  that  the  sympathies  of  the  old  Catholic 
nobility  of  Westphalia  were  always  divided  between  Austria 
and  Prussia,  and  that  it  was  usual  for  some  of  their  members 
to  serve  in  the  Austrian,  others  in  the  Prussian  army. 

As  soon  as  our  arrival  became  known  in  Vienna  we  received 
many  visits,  especially  from  old  acquaintances  in  Mexico.  Dr. 
Basch  called,  and  also  Col.  v.  Kodolitsch  and  Admiral 
Tegethoff. 

On  the  1 8th  my  husband  had  an  audience  with  the 
Emperor  of  Austria,  from  which  he  returned  rather  dissatisfied 
for  he  might  have  expected  a  more  gracious  reception.  The 
reserve  of  the  Emperor  may,  however,  be  easily  explained. 
After  the  catastrophe  of  Mexico  a  great  many  persons  arrived 
in  Vienna  v.^ho  all  had  served  Maximilian,  and  expected  to  be 
rewarded  for  their  services  extravagantly  by  his  brother.  The 
Emperor  was  indeed  annoyed  very  much,  and  in  self-defense 
had  to  look  somewhat  coolly  on  the  numerous  claimants. 
This  may  explain  the  unsatisfactory  reception  of  my  husband, 
though  his  exceptional  position  with  Maximilian  might  per- 
haps have  justified  a  slight  exception  on  the  part  of  his  brother. 
Decorations  are  very  cheap  at  Courts,  and  often  bestowed 
much  out  of  place,  and  they  were  so  without  doubt  on  the 
breast  of  Baron  Lago,  about  whom  Maximilian  had  expressed 
himself  so  explicitly.  Kind  and  yielding  as  he  was,  however, 
he  had  given  to  this  impotent  diplomatist  a  written  testimony 
of  his  good  behaviour,  which  the  Baron  took  good  care  to 
present  as  soon  as  possible  in  Vienna,  and  in  consequence  of 
which  he  obtained  a  decoration,  on  which  he,  however,  ought 
never  to  look  without  blushing.  From  this  noble  Baron  the 
Emperor  probably  received  information  in  reference  to  my 
husband,  for  a  letter  which  Maximilian  sfave  the  minister  to 
show  m  Vienna,  in  order  to  inform  the  Emperor  of  the  inti- 
mate connection  existing  between  the  poor  prince  and  my 
husband.  Baron  Lago  had  destroyed,  afraid  that  it  might  be 
found  upon  him  and  endanger  his  precious  neck.  Thus  it 
happened  that  the  friend  of  jNIaximilian  did  not  receive  from 
his  brother  even  such  a  token  of  his  satisfaction  as  was  granted 
to  a  Baron  Lago  !     He  felt  much  grieved  and  mortified,  and 


238  Ten   Years  of  my  Life. 

when  on  the  next  day  an  aide  of  the  Emperor  offered  him  a 
small  amount  of  money,  or  an,  annuity,  he  declined,  for  poor 
as  he  was,  he  felt  rather  humbled  by  such  an  offer.  This  was, 
however,  certainly  not  the  intention  of  the  Emperor. 

The  presence  of  my  husband  in  Vienna  did  not  remain  un- 
noticed by  his  creditors  in  that  city,  and  on  February  22  he 
was  arrested.  He  was  released,  however,  on  paying  two  thou- 
sand five  hundred  dollars  to  the  officer,  and  to  prevent  a  repe- 
tition of  such  an  occurrence  he  accepted  the  offer  of  a  wiser 
or  more  speculative  creditor  to  conceal  him  in  his  house.  Not 
feeling  at  ease  there  either  he  thought  it  safer  to  decamp,  and 
he  left  Vienna. 

I  had  requested  an  audience  with  Archduchess  Sophie,  and 
had  to  remain.  As  the  Empress  was  not  in  Vienna  I  could 
not  be  presented  to  her,  nor  to  the  Emperor  either.  Maybe 
he  would  not  have  received  me,  as  was  the  case  with  Madame 
de  Miramon,  though  she  had  an  autograph  letter  from  poor 
Maximilian,  recommending  her  and  her  tamily  to  his  brother. 
She  remained  five  weeks  in  an  hotel  waiting  for  an  audience, 
and  had  to  leave  Vienna  without  having  been  able  to  see  the 
Emperor.  I  have  explained  already  the  seeming  harshness  of 
this  kind  Prince.  The  claims  made  upon  him  by  people  who 
had  served  his  brother  became  indeed  alarming,  and  if  he  had 
once  commenced  to  satisfy  them  he  would  not  have  known 
where  they  would  stop.  When  things  became  more  settled, 
and  he  was  enabled  to  go  into  the  affairs  of  his  brother,  he 
did  not  forget  Madame  IVliramon,  and  provided  for  her  in  a 
very  noble  and  handsome  manner. 

Archduchess  Sophie  received  me  on  February  27.  She  was 
extremely  kind,  cried  a  good  deal,  and  thanked  me  much  for 
what  I  had  done  for  her  beloved  son.  She  said  she  had  been 
much  opposed  to  his  going  amongst  such  barbarians,  and  I 
had  to  tell  her  all  he  had  said,  and  how  he  had  looked,  «S:c. 
She  was  indeed  very  much  affected. 

Her  gratitude  restricted  itself  not  only  to  words.  Soon 
afterwards  was  offered  to  me  on  the  part  of  the  Emperor  an 
annuity  of  twelve  hundred  dollars,  wdiich  I  thankfully  accepted, 
and  about  a  fortnight  after  this  visit  she  sent  me,  through 
Countess  von  Furstenberg,  a  splendid  bracelet,  with  the  por- 
trait of  the  Emperor  Maximilian,  as  a  keepsake. 

I  left  Vienna  on  February  28,  and  met  my  husband  waiting 


The  Future  looks  Bark  239 

for  me  at  the  station  in  Munich.  We  paid  a  visit  to  an  aunt 
of  Felix,  who  lived  there,  a  Countess  von  Salm-Hoegstraeten, 
whose  husband  was  not  at  home,  but  in  Bonn  with  one  of  his 
brothers.  We  passed  a  pleasant  day  with  the  Countess  and 
her  daughter,  who  were  charmmg,  kind  people,  and  left  on 
March  2,  early  in  the  morning. 

Arriving  in  Bonn  at  half-past  nine  p.m.,  we  were  received  at 
the  station  by  the  Counts  Albrecht  and  Hermann  Salm- 
Hoegstraeten,  who  has  a  house  m  Bonn.  We  stayed  next 
day  in  this  city,  with  which  I  was  very  much  pleased. 

In  the  afternoon  we  received  a  visit  from  the  eldest  son  of 
my  husband's  brother,  Leopold,  the  hereditary  Prince  of  the 
house  of  Salm-Salm,  whom  I  saw  here  for  the  first  time,  as  he 
did  not  live  in  Schloss  Anholt,  but  in  Godesberg,  where  he 
was  under  hydropathic  treatment.  This  important  personage 
did  not  say  much,  but  stared  all  the  afternoon  in  my  face. 

We  returned  to  Anholt  rather  sad  and  discouraged,  for  our 
future  looked  dark.  Without  having  arranged  with  his  clamour- 
ing creditors  my  husband  could  not  think  of  entering  the  army. 
This  arrangement  became  more  difficult  every  day,  for  as  soon 
as  the  creditors  were  aware  of  the  desire  to  settle,  and  that  the 
reigning  Prince  was  willing  to  assist,  their  exactions  became 
extravagant  beyond  all  reasonable  bounds.  Under  such  cir- 
cumstances it  was  impossible  for  us  to  remain  in  Germany,  and 
we  seriously  reflected  on  leaving  it  again,  but  where  to  go  we 
did  not  know. 

Though  my  brother-in-law  and  his  family  did  all  they  could 
to  make  us  feel  at  home,  we  could  not  shake  oft'  our  sad 
thoughts.  We  were  groping  in  the  dark,  and  for  a  long  time 
we  could  not  come  to  any  resolution. 

Life  in  Anholt  went  on  as  usual  in  a  quiet  way,  and  was 
only  interrupted  now  and  then  by  visits  from  relations  or  visits 
we  paid  to  them.  Amongst  others  we  visited  the  widow  of 
Prince  Emil  Salm,  a  brother  of  Alfred  and  Felix,  who  lived  in 
Cleve,  where  her  two  sons  were  at  a  college.  Her  name  was 
Minna.     Felix  liked  her  very  much. 

Time  passed  on  without  anything  definitive  being  decided 
in  reference  to  us.  Alfred,  however,  endeavoured  to  come  :o 
an  arrangement  with  my  husband's  creditors,  and  to  facilitate 
this  it  was  thought  expedient  that  we  should  leave  Germany 
for  a  time. 


240  Ten   Years  of  ray  Life. 

During  our  stay  in  Mexico  we  had  always  kept  up  a  lively 
correspondence  with  our  friends  the  Corvins.  The  Colonel, 
who  had  a  position  in  the  United  States  Treasury,  became 
tired  of  greenbacks  and  seven-thirties,  accepted  a  position  as 
special  correspondent  of  the  '  New  York  Times/  and  returned 
to  Germany  in  1867.  He  lived  then  with  Mrs.  Corvin  in 
Berlin,  and  we  had  arranged  to  meet  somewhere  in  Switzerland, 
where  we  intended  to  spend  our  summer  together. 

When  we  were  nearly  ready  to  start  my  brother-in-law, 
Prince  Alfred,  fell  seriously  ill,  and  the  whole  family  was  much 
distressed  and  alarmed.  Everybody  liked  Prince  Alfred,  for, 
being  a  very  good  and  kind  father,  his  deatli  would  not  only 
have  been  deeply  felt  by  all  his  children  and  relatives,  because 
they  loved  and  respected  him,  but  also  because  a  very  great 
change  would  hjve  resulted  from  it. 

The  most  celebrated  physicians  were  fetched  from  Bonn, 
but  they  agreed  that  Alfred  was  most  dangerously  ill,  and  that 
there  was  little  hope  of  his  recovery.  All  the  members  of  the 
family  and  also  the  Duke  of  Croy  arrived  in  Anholt,  and  on 
Friday,  April  3,  Alfred  received  the  holy  sacrament.  But  from 
that  time  he  improved  and  began  to  recover  slowly.  At  the 
end  of  April  he  was  out  of  danger,  and  on  Tuesday,  .May  5, 
we  left  Anholt  for  Switzerland,  taking  the  steamboat  at  Cologne. 

On  our  way  we  paid  a  visit  to  the  ancestral  castle  of  the 
Salms,  the  former  residence  of  the  '  Rhingraves,'  tliC  Rhein- 
grafenstein,  which  is  now  a  ruin  still  belonging  to  the  family. 
As  my  husband  had  good  reasons  for  not  making  it  known  who 
he  was,  we  had  resolved  to  lay  his  title  aside  and  to  travel 
under  the  name  of  Von  Stein. 

Travelling  through  Basle  to  Constance  we  took  there  the 
steamer,  and  arrived  on  May  9  ni  Rorschach,  in  the  Canton 
St.  Gall,  Switzerland,  where  we  'met  he  Corvins,  who  had 
arrived  two  days  before  us. 

Rorschach  is  a  large  village  hard  on  the  Lake  of  Constance, 
which  would  be  called  a  city  in  many  parts  of  America.  It  is 
iust  opposite  Friedrichshafen  in  V/iirtemburg,  and  situated  at 
the  foot  of  a  hill  nearly  three  miles  long,  which  rises  from  the 
lake  about  two  thousand  feet  high.  I  was  not  in  a  frame  of 
mind  to  enjoy  anything,  and  that,  I  suppose,  was  the  reason 
that  I  did  not  then  like  the  place,  though  the  Corvins  were  de- 
lighted with  it.     We  alighted  at  the  Hotel  G-^rni,  close  to  the 


A  ReviarJcahle  Stove.  241 

lake,  the  railroad  running  right  before  the  house.  As  I  did 
not  hke  the  accommodation  at  all,  we  looked  out  for  some 
other  place  and  went  in  a  boat  to  Arbon,  situate  on  a  project- 
ing kind  of  peninsula.  From  the  garden  of  the  inn  there  we 
had  a  splendid  view  of  the  Saentis  mountain  and  its  glaciers, 
but  the  inn  being  rather  too  rustic  for  our  taste,  we  did  not 
hke  to  stay  there. 

Salm  and  Corvin  went  prospectmg  about,  and  discovered  a 
little  old  castle  about  a  quarter  of  an  hour  from  Rorschach, 
situate  on  the  slope  of  the  above-mentioned  ridge,  something 
like  two  hundred  feet  above  the  surface  of  the  lake.  Its  name 
was  Castle  Wiggen.  and  it  belonged  to  a  former  Landamann  of 
St.  Gall,  Mr.  Hoftman  von  Leuchtenstern,  who  had  resided 
there  several  years,  but  who  lived  then,  since  he  had  become  a 
widower,  in  St.  Gall.  Hearing  that  the  castle  was  in  perfect 
repair  and  furnished,  we  were  desirous  of  renting  it,  and  went 
to  St.  Gall  to  speak  to  its  owner,  who  was  willing  and  we  took 
it. 

Salm  and  myself  occupied  a  very  large  corner  room,  with  an 
adjoining  bedroom.       From   the    windows   we   had   a   most 
splendid  view  over  the  Lake  of  Constance  and  its  shores.  The 
Corvins  took  the  opposite  corner  room,  separated  from  ours 
by  a  hall  with  a  large  window,  in  which  were  inserted  in  stained 
glass  the  arms   of  former  owners.     Whilst  our   rooms  were 
modernized,  that  of  our  friends  was  left  in  its  primitive  state. 
The  walls  were  gaudily  and  curiously  painted,  and  provided 
with   many  cupboards.     The    furniture  consisted  of  a  large 
oaken  centenarian  table  and  straight-backed  cliairs,  a  narrow 
bed  in  a  recess,  and  another  very  large  one  standing  free  in 
the  room.     The  most  remarkable  object  in  that  room    was, 
however^  the  stove :  it  was  the  biggest  and  most  respectable 
stove  I  have  seen  in  all  my  life ;  a  whole  Indian  family  might 
have  lived  in  it,  and  it  is  worth  a  description.     On  four  solid 
iron  feet,  ^bout  two  feet  high,  rested  a  more  than  three  inches 
thick  stone  slab  of  six  feet  by  three  and  a  half,  and  on  it  stood, 
built  of  green,  glazed,  curiously  ornamented  square  tiles,  the 
main  structure  of  the  oven,  capacious  enough  to  hold  a  whole 
cartload  of  wood.     On  this  square  compartment  rose,  built  of 
the  same  material,  a  round  tower,  reaching  nearly  up  to  the 
high   ceiling.     In  the   ornamented   battlement  of  this    tower 
were  inserted  the  arms  of  the  Schlabberitz,  who  once  lived  in 

o 


242  Ten   Years  of  "my  Life. 

Lhe  castle.  The  most  curious  and  suggestive  part  of  this  stove 
was,  however,  to  me  the  spate  between  it  and  the  wall.  A 
few  steps  of  green  glazed  sla!^  led  to  '  seat  made  of  the  same 
material.  It  did  not  requi'  much  fancy  to  imagine  sitting 
there  some  grey-headed  old  knight  with  a  large  tankard  at  his 
elbow,  or  a  venerable  grand-mother,  her  wrinkled  face  rising 
above  an  enormous  stiff  frill. 

Old  pictures,  portraits  and  nhers,  of  more  or  less  value,  in 
tarnished  gold  or  simple  black  frames,  all  looking  somewhat 
mildewed,  ornamented  the  rooms  and  halls,  in  which  stood 
l;eautifuliy  carved,  enormous  wardrobes  of  black  walnut,  with 
locks  and  keys  that  seemed  to  have  been  wrought  by  Tubal 
Cain. 

The  hall  between  ours  and  the  Corvins'  rooms  was  closed 
by  a  strong  iron-fitted  door,  opening  on  a  stone  staircase 
winding  up  in  a  round  tower.  On  the  top  of  this  tower  was 
arranged  a  little  roon.,  from  the  window  of  which  a  wide  view 
was  to  be  had  in  all  direction. .  ■ 

The  tower  was  entered  from  a  large  hall  on  the  ground  floor, 
through  which  one  came  to  the  yixvd.,  closed  by  a  farm-building 
and  cow-stables.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  building  was, 
enclosed  by  a  wall  from  which  some  turrets  haci  been  removed, 
a  little  garden  with  fruit-trees,  flower-beds,  and  vegetables,  kept 
in  order  by  the  couple  who  were  in  cha'ge  of  the  castle,  and 
who  lived  in  a  kind  of  entresol.  Peaches  and  pear-tiees  and 
creepers  covered  th  outside  wall  of  the  castle,  which  stood  on 
a  gentle  eminence.  Its  slope  was  a  luxuriant  meadow,  studded 
with  beautiful,  fruit-trees. 

Though  at  that  time  I  was  dissatisfied  with  every  things  be- 
cause I  was  much  troubled  in  mind.,  I  must  say  now  that  thi:> 
Castle  Wiggen  is  a  beautiful  spot.  From  tlie  back  room  one 
looked  riglit  upon  the  Rorschach  hill,  of  which  the  slope  fall- 
ing off  towards  the  lake  is  indeed  iy.  little  world  in  itself  Ap- 
proaching Rorschach  from  the  lake,  when  still  the  snowy 
mountains  behind  the  ridge  are  to  be  seen,  this  slope  looks 
rather  insignificant ;  but  on  coming  nearer  and  the  high  moun- 
tains disappearing,  it  looks  more  interesting  ;  but  to  become 
fully  aw^are  of  its  beauties,  one  must  stay  for  a  longer  time  and 
explore  it.  It  is  indeed,  as  I  said,  a  little  world  in  itself. 
There  are  little  villages  and  farms,  deep  gullies  w^ith  rocks  and 
water  rushing  over  them  ;  fine  woods  and  s[)lendid  meadows. 


Beaut  if  al  Scenery.  243 

covered  with  beautiful  flowers  like  a  garden.  Ever>-wliere 
crystal  springs  are  bubbling.  Towards  the  top  of  the  ridge  are 
pine-woods,  It  is  a  rather  long  and  toilsome  way  up  to  them, 
but  it  is  worth  the  trouble  to  make  it,  for  behind  these  woods 
is  the  crest  of  the  ridge,  from  where  the  enraptured  eye  looks 
on  the  Saentis,  which  seems  so  close  by  that  every  little  rock 
on  it  can  be  seen.  At  the  other  end  of  the  ridge  the  view  is 
even  finer,  for  before  us  are  the  Rhine  Valley,  the  mountains 
near  Ragatz  and  Chur,  and  the  Tyrolean  Alps.. 

The  beauties  of  the  site  of  Rorschach,  though  it  does  not 
strike  visitors  on  a  first  view,  have  been  fully  appreciated  by 
connoisseurs.  The  Queen  Dowager  of  Wurtemburg,  who  is 
now  dead,  had  between  Rorschach  and  Bad  Horn  a  fine 
country-house,  where  she  resided  every  summer.  At  the  op- 
posite side,  nearer  to  the  entrance  of  the  Rhine  into  the  lake 
is  Castle  Wartegg,  the  residence  of  the  Duke  of  Parma.  On 
the  same  line,  not  on  the  lake  but  on  the  top  of  the  ridge, 
stands  the  very  stately  old  Castle  of  Wartamsee,  which  has 
been  restored  by  an  Englishman,  who,  however,  lost  his  money 
in  Baden-Baden,  and  had  to  sell  that  fine  place,  Vvhich  since 
then  has  changed  hands  several  times.  Not  far  from  Rors- 
chach, in  the  Rhine  Valley,  is  the  Weinburg,  a  country  seat 
belonging  to  the  Prince  of  Plohenzollern. 

Rorschach  is  built  hard  by  the  lake.  It  was  a  very  flourish- 
ing mercantile  place,  and  many  rich  merchants  dealing  with 
italy  lived  there.  Several  fine  old  houses,  with  curiously  sculp- 
tured windows  and  balconies,  especially  in  the  main  street, 
bear  testimony  to  their  taste  and  wealth.  It  is  still  an  impor- 
tant place,  and  one  of  the  grain  markets  of  Switzerland.  Close 
to  the  lake,  on  the  haven,  stands  an  extensive  old  corn-house. 

In  summer  Rorschach  is  very  lively,  for  an  immense  num- 
ber of  travellers  pass  through,  coming  either  from  Lindau  or 
Friedrichshafen,  on  their  way  to  the  interior  of  Switzerland. 
Steamers  are  going  to  and  fro,  the  railroad  whistle  is  heard  in- 
cessantly, and  all  these  steamers  and  trains^are  crowded,  loaded 
with  travellers  from  every  part  of  the  world — or  societies, 
schools,  colleges,  &c.  out  on  a  pleasure  excursion.  Most  of 
these  passengers  pass  only,  but  very  many  think  it  worth  while  to 
stay  a  day  or  two  in  Rorschach,  and  in  the  several  hotels  of 
the  place  company  is  always  to  be  found,  almost  every  day  fre^h 
faces. 


24-l<  Ten  Years  of  rtiy  Life. 

As  it  was  inconvenient  to  walk  every  day  to  Rorschach  for 
our  meals,  though  the  distance  from  Wiggen  would  be  con- 
sidered trifling  in  a  city,  we  commenced  housekeeping  in  the 
castle.  It  is  true  the  cooking  apparatus  of  centuries  ago  was 
very  insufficient,  but  we  had  all  been  used  to  camp  life,  and 
found  it  not  very  difficult  to  put  up  with  little  imperfections 
and  simple  tare. 

A  few  minutes  walk  brought  us  to  the  bank  of  the  lake, 
where  we  made  friends  with  a  gardener  who  had  charge  of  an 
extensive  villa,  belonging  to  some  Stuttgart  gentleman,  and 
were  allowed  the  use  of  the  bathing-house,  which  was  indeed  a 
great  comfort.  A  bath  in  the  Lake  of  Constance  is  indeed  a 
treat.  Though  it  is  the  largest  of  the  Swiss  lakes,  it  is  only  a 
pond  in  comparison  with  our  American  lakes.  In  fine  wea- 
ther one  can  see  every  house  in  Friedrichshafen  on  the  Wur- 
tenibergian  shore,  though  the  steamer  requires  an  hour  and  a 
half  for  the  passage.  Still  it  is  beautiful,  and  one  does  not 
tire  of  looking  on  its  ever-changing  surface.  Now  it  is  as 
blue  as  an  Italian  lake ;  in  the  next  quarter  of  an  hour  it  is 
green,  which  is  its  most  usual  colour,  shaded  off  from  emerald 
green  to  the  darkest  hue.  A  land-scape  painter  could  not 
find  anywhere  a  more  favourable  place  for  studying  water  and 
sky  than  at  the  windows  of  our  bright  and  pleasant  room. 
Small  as  the  lake  appeared  to  me,  in  stormy  weather  it  can 
assume  quite  a  formidable  aspect  and  foam  like  the  sea.  Skip- 
pers say  that  it  is  dangerous,  and  accidents  to  ships  are  by  nib 
means  rare.  Some  years  ago  one  of  the  largest  steamers  was 
wrecked  close  to  the  port  of  Rorschach. 

It  is  plainly  to  be  seen  where  the  Rhine  enters  the  lake,  and 
the  course  of  the  river  is  still  to  be  traced  a  great  distance. 
The  place  near  the  entrance  of  the  Rhine  is  rather  ill-reputed, 
on  account  of  an  eddy  making  it  dangerous  to  inexperienced 
boatmen.  Salm  went  one  morning  out  fishing  alone  in  a 
small  boat,  with  nothing  but  a  piece  of  bread  and  a  small  flask 
in  his  pocket.  Knowing  that  he  was  a  very  persevering  sports- 
man, I  did  not  wonder  at  his  not  being  back  to  dinner  ;  but 
when,  late  in  the  afternoon,  he  still  had  not  returned,  and  our 
glasses  swept  the  lake  in  vain,  looking  out  for  his  boat,  we  all 
became  alarmed  and  afraid  of  some  accident,  though  the  wea- 
ther was  fine  and  the  lake  like  a  mirror.  At  last  he  arrived 
but  utterly  exhausted  and  in   a   pitiful   state.     His  face  was 


Salmon-Jishing,  245 

burnt  quite  red  and  the  inside  of  his  hands  was  peeled 
off.  As  the  place  where  the  Rhine  enters  the  lake  was  famous 
for  salmon,  he  ventured  there,  but  not  being  sufficiently  ac- 
quainted with  the  dangers  of  that  locality  he  got  in  the  famous 
eddy,  and  was  kept  there  for  hours,  no  help  being  near. 

The  lake  is  still  famous  for  its  fish,  though  the  steamships 
have  done  a  great  deal  of  harm.  Some  years  ago  a  renowned 
fisherman  from  Horn  caught  in  one  morning  800  cwt.  of  fish,  a 
fact  scarcely  credible,  but  which  was  confirmed  as  true  by 
many  persons.  Salm  and  Corvin  engaged  that  lucky  man  to 
initiate  them  in  his  art,  and  they  went  frequently  out  fishing 
on  the  lake,  mostly  trolling  for  salmon-trout  and  pike,  but  with 
indifferent  success.  Once  Salm  had  a  bite  and  he  became 
quite  excited,  for  according  to  all  indications  an  enormous 
salmon  had  taken  the  bait.  Instead  of  giving  the  fish  line  and 
letting  it  exhaust  its  strength,  Salm  in  his  eagerness  pulled  in 
with  all  the  strength  of  his  arm,  and  the  result  was,  as  every 
votary  of  the  craft  might  have  foreseen,  that  he  nearly  capsized 
the  boat  by  falling  on  his  back,  the  salmon  getting  off  with 
six  hooks  in  his  mouth.  Salm  was  much  teased  for  this  un- 
courteous  behaviour  of  one  of  his  cousins  towards  the  '  Rhine- 
grave,'  for  salmon  is  Salm  in  German,  and  the  family  derive 
their  name  from  this  denizen  of  the  Rhine,  the  Salms  having 
two  salmons  in  their  coat  of  arms. 

I  contented  myself  with  fishing  with  the  rod,  remaining  on 
shore.  Though  I  am  not  very  fearful  in  general,  I  dislike 
water,  for  on  looking  on  it  I  think,  shudderingly,  of  sea-sick- 
ness. 

We  made  of  course  many  excursions  to  the  mountains,  and 
though  sometimes  fatiguing,  they  were  pleasant.  We  visited 
now  and  then  the  fine  village  of  Heiden,  about  six  miles  from 
Wiggen,  beyond  the  crest  of  the  Rorschach  hill  and  beautifully 
situated.  Many  people  live  there  through  the  summer,  and 
the  place  is  quite  celebrated,  as  Professor  Graefe,  the  eminent 
oculist,  stayed  there  ev-ery  summer,  and  people  from  every 
part  of  the  world  came  there  to  consult  him. 

We  visited  also  sometimes  Castle  Rorschach,  the  decayed 
residence  of  the  old  lords  of  Rorschach,  and  once  the  resi- 
dence of  an  abbot  of  St.  Gall,  who  sustained  a  siege  and  died 
there.  It  is  situated  some  hundreds  of  feet  above  the  village,  and 
is  now  owned  by  a  man  who  has  been  everywhere  in  the  world, 


24;6  Ten   Years  of  my  Life. 

and  who  looks  like  an  Italuin  robber.  He  keeps  in  the  castle 
a  kind  of  restaurant,  and  manj  people  go  there  to  drink  his 
good  wine  and  enjoy  the  splendid  view. 

More  frequently  we  visited  a  place  only  a  short  walk  from 
us,  close  to  Castle  Wartegg.  It  was  called  '  im  Wiedien,'  and 
belonged  to  a  man  of  the  name  of  Raggebas,  whose  family 
have  owned  the  house  and  surrounding  fields  for  centuries. 
The  very  insignificant-looking  house  was  built  against  the  hill, 
and  one  entered  with  reluctance,  first,  a  room  where  workmen 
from  the  neighbouring  quarries  were  smoking  horrid  tobacco, 
eating  horrid  cheese,-  and  drinking  a  horrid  fluid  called  saft.  a 
kind  of  weak  cider  made  of  pears,  a  whole  pint  of  it  costing 
but  a  fraction  of  a  penny. 

From  there  one  came  into  another  room,  where  a  better 
class  of  people,  and  amongst  them  some  servants  of  the  Duke 
of  Parma,  were  drinking  thtir  coftee  or  pint  of  wine.  Through 
this  room  one  came  1o  the  third  largest  room,  which  was  re- 
served for  those  persons  who  were  imagined  to  belong  to  the 
higher  classes.  All  the  rooms  were  scrupulously  clean  and 
pleasant.  The  owner  of  this  farm,  who  was  a  wealthy  man, 
never  aspired  to  a  higher  place  in  society  than  had  been  held 
by  his  ancestors.  He  was  a  free  Swiss  peasant,  and,  wearing 
all  the  year  round  his  blouse  and  hobnailed  shoes,  he  carried 
his  milk  to  his  customers  and  worked  on  his  farm,  leaving  to 
his  wife  and  servant  the  care  as  to  housework  and  attendance 
on  the  guests. 

Mrs.  Raggebas  became  a  great  friend  of  ours,  as  she 
had  been  of  the  late  Duchess  of  Parma,  who  often  came  and 
had  achat  with  her.  She  was  a  middle  aged,  pleasant,  kind, 
and  polite  peasant  woman,  who  kept  her  house  in  trim  order, 
and  everything  she  served  was  excellent  and  ridiculously 
cheap. 

When  we  came  there  in  company  of  six  or  eight  persons  and 
enjoyed  all  the  luxuries  to  be  had,  as  splendid  coffee,  excel- 
lent cream,  cake,  honey,  and  good  Tyrolean  wine,  we  never 
succeeded  in  running  up  a  bill  surpassing  five  francs  ;  and  when 
paying,  Mrs.  Raggebas  always  forced  upon  us  a  quantity  of 
cherries  or  pears,  adding  with  a  reassuring  smile  in  her  Swiss 
dialect,  '  Koscht  nix.' 

She  had  a  maid-servant,  who  was  remarkable  also.  She 
was  the  daughter  of  a  wealthy  farmer  herself,  but  not  liking  her 


Projessor  Desor.  247 

stepmother  she  preferred  serving.  She  was  a  rather  tall,  plea- 
sant-looking girl,  with  an  open  though  not  pretty  countenance, 
who  was  held  in  great  respect  by  all  the  men  on  account  of 
her  strength,  which  she  once  used  in  a  very  credible  manner. 
A  little  stranger,  with  a  high,  well-brushed  cylinder  hat,  at- 
tempted to  flirt  with  her  in  a  country-like  fashion.  Looking 
upon  him  at  first  with  some  amused  astonishment,  she  settled 
the  question  by  quietly  taking  hold  of  his  waist  with  both  her 
hands.  Then  she  lifted  up  the  little  amorous  man  as  one  does 
a  baby,  and  ramming  his  precious  beaver  against  the  low  ceil- 
ing so  that  it  went  down  over  the  nose  of  the  stunned  little 
fellow,  she  went  away  laughing. 

When  the  weather  was  not  favourable  we  were  occupied  at 
home ;  Mrs.  Corvin  with  painting  in  water  colours,  and  I 
with  learning  German,  for  which  I  had  engaged  a  teacher  from 
Eorschach.  Corvin  had  discovered  in  the  castle  an  old  library 
full  of  curious  books,  into  which  he  dived  with  all  the  zeal  of 
an  antiquarian.  Salm  wrote  his  Diary  in  Mexico,  which  was 
published  some  time  after,  myself  adding  to  it  a  part  of  ray 
own  diary. 

Visitors  were  not  wanting,  for  many  persons  we  knew  passed 
through  Rorschach  and  stayed  there  a  few  days.  Amongst 
others  came  an  old  comrade  of  Salm's  in  the  Austrian  army. 
Baron  Hauser,  with  his  pretty  wife,  the  daughter  of  the  Trieste 
banker,  and  a  colonel  from  Bregenz  paid  us  now  and  then  a 
visit.  The  same  did  a  Baron  Alten  (a  staunch  Welf,  who 
followed  the  fortunes  of  his  deposed  king),  with  his  daughter, 
an  agreeable  girl. 

Parties  to  Bregenz,  Ragatz,  Heiden,  and  St.  Gall  interrupted 
now  and  then  our  monotonous  but  rather  pleasant  life,  which 
would  have  satisfied  me  still  more  if  the  unsettled  state  of 
Felix's  affairs  had  not  troubled  my  mmd  and  embittered  all 
enjoyment.  My  husband  went  from  Rorschach  to  Munich 
and  Vienna  to  bring  about  some  arrangement,  but  without 
effect ;  and  from  Schloss  Anholt  we  did  not  receive  much 
comfort  either. 

In  the  first  days  of  August,  Mrs.  Corvin  resolved  to  pay  a 
visit  to  a  friend  of  her  youth,  the  celebrated  savant,  Professor 
Edward  Desor,  who  lived  near  Xeufchatel,  and  she  invited  me 
to  accompany  her.  Switzerland  is  not  Mexico,  and  I  need 
not  describe  what  I  saw.     Though  the  weather  was   not   very 


248  Ten  Years  of  my  Life. 

good,  I  was  delighted.  At  a  station  beyond  Neufcbatel,  I 
believe  Noiraigre,  the  carriage  of  the  Professor  waited  for  us, 
its  owner  excusing  himself  on  the  ground  of  a  slight  indisposi- 
tion. The  road  to  his  country-seat  was  uphill  work,  for 
Combe- Varin  (that  is  its  name)  is  situate  five  thousand  feet 
above  the  sea.  It  was  formerly  a  hunting  house  of  a  noble 
family  related  to  Mr.  Desor,  and  has  been  changed  by  him 
into  a  very  comfortable  Swiss  dwelling-house.  The  Professor's 
name  is  well  known  in  the  learned  world.  He  was  a  long 
time  in  America,  and  a  companion  of  Agassiz.  Now  he  has 
settled  in  Switzerland,  and  is  a  senator  of  influence  in  his 
canton.  He  is  a  bachelor,  but  his  house  is  never  empty  of 
visitors,  for  he  has  maiay  friends  m  every  part  of  the  world. 
We  found  there  a  Mr.  Reinwald,  a  publisher  from  Paris,  with 
his  wife,  and  a  Professor  Eisenlohr  from  Carlsruhe,  a  great 
scientific  gun,  who  died,  however,  some  lime  ago. 

The  Professor  does  not  look  like  a  professor,  but  more  like 
a  country  gentleman,  and  his  household  does  not  resemble 
that  of  a  bachelor  either. 

Everything  was  extremely  comfortable,  and  in  all  Switzer- 
land I  never  met  a  better  provided  dinner-table.  Mr.  Desor 
is  somewhat  of  an  epicurean,  as  every  sensible  man  ought  to 
be  who  can  afford  it.  I  felt  somewhat  out  of  my  depth  in 
this  learned  society,  but  all  of  them  being  men  of  the  world 
they  dealt  mercifully  with  me,  and  our  visit  was  very  pleasant. 

We  made  from  Combe-Varin  some  fine  excursions,  and  paid 
a  visit  to  a  friend  of  the  Professors,  Mr.  Fritz  Berthond,  who 
lived  at  a  village,  Fleuris,  in  a  house  elegantly  furnished  in 
Parisian  taste. 

We  remained  four  days  in  Combe-Varin,  and  left  on  August 
8  for  Zurich,  where  we  met  my  husband,  with  whom  we 
returned  to  Rorschach.  _  Some  days  afterwards  Mrs.  Corvin 
left  us  for  Frankfurt,  and  the  Colonel  took  his  quarters  in  the 
Hotel  Garni  in  Rorschach,  whilst  we  were  looking  out  for 
comfortable  quarters  in  that  village,  as  it  now  soon  became 
dark,  and  it  was  inconvenient  to  return  late  to  our  castle. 
We  were  fortunate  enough  to  find  in  the  finest  of  the  old 
houses  of  Rorschach  a  large  hall,  furnished  and  decorated  in 
the  rococo  style,  with  two  adjoining  rooms,  and  left  old 
Wiggen  on  August  23. 

We  passed  our  time  quite  agreeably,  for  we  had  always  nice 


The  Weinhurg.  240 

company.  Baron  Hauser,  with  his  wife  and  children,  came  to 
Rorschach,  and  also  frequently  Baron  Alten  with  his  daughter. 
In  Heiden  we  became  acquainted  with  a  Mademoiselle  de 
Dusterloh,  a  very  handsome,  sprightly  young  lady,  to  whom 
we  became  very  much  attached.  Her  father.  Baron  von 
Dusterloh)  who  had  an  estate  in  Kurland,  Russia,  arrived  also, 
and  when  he  had  to  go  to  Berlin  he  left  his  daughter  under 
my  care.  Our  company  was  increased  by  Mr.  Morpurgo,  the 
brother  of  Baroness  Hauser,  an  agreeable  young  man  suftering 
from  the  poetical  fever.  Everything  turned  to  verse  in  him, 
and  he  could  not  keep  it  to  himself.  We  were  of  course  vic- 
timised, but  the  bashful  manner  in  which  he  administered  to 
us  his  poems  made  it  tolerable. 

On  September  3,  Corvin  left  us,  and  we  accompanied  him 
to  Friedrichshafen  in  the  steamer.  This  place  is  larger  than 
Rorschach,  and  many  people  prefer  it,  because  they  have  a 
vievv  of  the  Swiss  mountains. 

On  September  10,  Prince  Hohenzollern  and  family  arrived 
at  the  Weinburg,  and  we  were  invited  to  come  and  see  them. 
The  Weinburg  is  a  beautiful  place,  deriving  its  name  from  the 
vineyards  surrounding  it,  where  are  grown  the  most  delicious 
grapes. 

I  cannot  sufficiently  acknowledge  the  great  and  genuine 
kindness  with  which  we  were  received  and  treated  by  this 
most  excellent  and  amiable  family.  The  Prince,  who  is  a 
general  in  the  Prussian  army,  is  a  fine  noble-looking  man,  with 
an  extremely  benevolent  face,  and  the  Princess  his  peer  in 
every  respect.  With  them  were  staying  their  second  son, 
Prince  Cliarles  of  Roumania,  Baron  von  Schreckenstein, 
captain  and  aide-de-camp  to  his  father,  and  his  wife,  and  the 
Baronesses  Esebeck.  and  Lindhein.  The. Prince  is  very  rich, 
and  though  not  related  to  the  King  of  Prussia,  he  has  great 
influence,  which,  however,  he  does  not  use,  keeping  far  trom 
mixing  either  with  internal  or  external  politics.  As  the  name 
shows,  the  Prussian  Family  and  that  of  the  Prince  come  from 
the  same  stock,  and  the  Hohenzollerns  of  Hechingen  and 
Siegmaringen  are  even  of  the  elder  line.  They  remain  Catho- 
lics, while  the  Royal  Family  of  Prussia  are  Protestants, 

I  need  not  repeat  here  the  circumstances  which  made  Prince 
Charles  of  Hohenzollern  accept  the  rather  troublesome  posi- 
tion of  Prince  of  Roumania.     It  is  said  that  he  often  regretted 


250  Ten  Fears  of  my  Life. 

that  step,  and  would  have  preferred  to  return  as  a  simple  officer 
to  Berlin.  Whenever  he  made  a  journey  it  was  rumoured  he 
would  not  return,  probably  by  people  with  whose  wishes  this 
would  have  coincided.  At  all  events,  he  is  still  in  Bucharest, 
and  as  far  as  I  know  without  any  intention  of  leaving  it. 

We  dined  several  times  at  the  Weinburg,  and  passed  there 
very  agreeable  hours.     The  Prince  presented  me  with  an  album 
containing  photographic  views  of  the  Weinburg,  and  the  Prin- 
cess frequently  sent  me  fine  flowers  and  grapes  ;  and  all  came 
/    to  see  us  in  Rorschach.     Jimmy  was  highly  displeased  with 
I    these  visits,  for  the  dogs  of  the  Weinburg  were  not  so  hospita- 
1     ble  towards  him  as  their  masters  towards  his,  and  he  had  with 
j     them  a  rather  severe  fight. 

The  kindness  of  Prince,  Hohenzollern  was,  however,  not  re- 
stricted to  mere  politeness ;  he  understood  and  sympathised 
with  the  position  ot  Salm,  and  promised  to  assist  him,  which 
he  did  in  a  very  noble  and  princely  manner. 

It  was  deemed  expedient  and  even  necessary  that  we  should 
go  to  Berlin  to  pursue  the  endeavours  of  Felix  to  get  a  suitable 
position  in  the  Prussian  army.  We  therefore  left  Rorschach 
on  October  2,  and  I  was  very  glad,  for  it  was  at  least  a  step 
towards  a  final  settlement,  for  which  I  longed  much.  These 
perpetual  troubles  and  anxieties,  these  false  hopes  and  delays, 
were  almost  more  than  I  could  bear,  and  I  was  yearning  with 
all  my  heart  for  rest. 

In  passing  Majence  we  met  there  an  old  friend  of  my  hus- 
band's, a  Mr.  Kalmer,  and  his  wife,  who  was  with  him  at  Paris 
at  a  very  sad  period  of  his  life,  before  he  left  for  the  United 
States.  We  went  over  to  Wiesbaden  to  see  that  celebrated 
beautiful  watering-place.  Of  course  we  tried  our  luck  at  the 
roulette-table.  I  sacrificed  a  few  gilders,  but  Salm  won,  to  my 
envy,  a  good  many. 

Next  morning  we  started  for  Bonn,  where  '  Uncle  Hermann ' 
waited  for  us  at  the  station,  and  took  us  to  his  house.  We 
made  the  acquaintance  of  a  Baroness  Frank,  whom  we  visited 
at  her  beautiful  country-house,  which  might  be  rather  called  a 
palace,  situated  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  Rhine,  not  far 
from  the  Drachenfels,  The  hereditary  Prince  of  Anholt  came 
also  to  see  us,  and  we  all  made  a  nice  party  to  Rolandseck. 

On  October  7  we  left  for  Berlin,  and  arrived  late  in  the 
c\  ening  at  the  Hotel  St.  Petersburg,  Unter  den  Linden. 


251 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

Salm's  Diary  in  Mexico  pubIished--Prince  Kraflft  Hohenlohe — Baron 
Magnus — Audience  with  Princess  Charles  of  Prussia — Countess  Seyd- 
ewitz— At  Baroness  Sciileinitz's—Salm  Major  in  the  Guards — Audience 
with  Her  Majesty  the  Queen  —  Countess  Schulemburg — Countess 
Benckendorff — Fast  habits — Coblentz — Society  there — The  Prussian 
army — Prussian  officers — The  regiment  '  Queen  Augusta.' 

As  we  expected  to  stay  for  several  montlis  in  Berlin,  we  looked 
out  for  more  convenient  quarters.  We  moved  first  to  the 
Hotel  de  Brandenburg,  and  from  there  to  private  lodgings  in 
the  Kanonierstrasse.  My  husband  had  been  so  long  away 
from  Berlin  that  he  had  becoine  almost  a  stranger  in  that  city  ; 
but  fortunately  the  Corvins  had  returned  to  their  residence 
there,  and  Baron  Magnus  lived  also  in  Berlin,  where  his  brother 
is  a  great  banker.  We  found  also  a  nephew.  Prince  Max 
Salm-Salm,  whom  the  king  had  made  lieutenant  in  the  regi- 
ment of  Dragoons  of  the  Guard.  It  is  still  a  privilege  of  the 
princes  of  former  sovereign  houses  that  they  may  be  appointed 
officers  at  once,  but  ihey  have  to  pass  through  their  examina- 
tion afterwards. 

We  were  of  course  frequently  with  the  Corvins  ;  in  fact,  we 
saw  each  other  daily,  we  either  staying  with  them  or  they  visit- 
ing us.  Baron  Magnus  came  also  frequently  as  usual,  and  en- 
deavoured to  take  the  direction  of  all  steps  to  be  taken  by  my 
husband.  It  was,  however,  a  very  trying  time,  for  we  had  first 
to  feel  our  ground,  to  form  all  kinds  of  connections,  to  make 
calls,  &c.  Both  Felix  and  myself  were  therefore  in  a  very  bad 
humour,  and  our  friends  had  a  rather  hard  time  with  us. 

Though  I  did  not  feel  at  all  disposed,  my  husband  insisted 
on  my  going  very  often  to  the  theatre,  or  to  take  part  in  other 
amusements.     As  the  season    was   still  favourable  we  visited 


252  Ten   Years  of  my  Life. 

Potsdam,  wliich  is  indeed  ,a  beautiful  place.  We  s:.w  Sans' 
Souci,  the  new  Palace,  the  Marmor  Palace,  which  all  inter' 
ested  me  much,  as  I  had  never  before  seen  such  royal  residen' 
ces.  We  visited  also  the  tomb  of  Frederick  the  Great,  which 
is  in  a  very  simple  vault  underneath  the  pulpit  in  the  garrison 
church. 

Meanwhile  the  book  of  my  husband,  '  My  Diary  in  Mexico,' 
written  at  Rorschach,  had  been  published  both  in  the  English 
and  German  languages.  Though  much  had  been  written  be- 
fore about  that  dreadful  catastrophe  in  Mexico,  this  book  was 
received  more  kindly  by  the  public  than  we  could  expect,  and 
was  read  by  many  persons  of  high  standing  and  influence  in 
the  Prussian  capital. 

In  the  commencement  of  November  Felix  was  received  by 
the  King,  who  was  extremely  gracious,  and  invited  him  on  the 
nth  to  dinner.  He  returned  from  there  much  elated  and  full 
of  good  hopes.  Many  of  his  old  comrades  remembered  him 
now  and  behaved  very  kindly,  and  were  willing  to  assist  him 
in  his  endeavours  to  re-enter  the  Prussian  army.  Amongst 
them  was  Prince  Krafift  Hohenlohe-Ingelfingen,  who  was  a 
general  in  the  Prussian  Artillery,  much  in  favour  with  the 
King.  He  came  frequently  to  see  us,  and  behaved  altogether 
extremely  kindly  and  serviceably. 

The  Queen  of  Prussia  was  at  that  time  not  in  town,  and  that 
was  an  impediment  to  my  being  presented  to  other  members  of 
the  Royal  Family,  and  at  Court.  On  November  12,  however, 
Baron  Magnus  called  and  made  a  very  important  and  myste- 
rious face.  He  said  he  came  at  the  request  of  the  Princess 
Charles,  the  sister  of  the  Queen,  who  wished  to  see  me,  though 
it  was  somewhat  against  etiquette. 

In  consequence  I  wrote  to  the  first  lady  of  honour  to  the 
Princess,  requesting  an  audience.  The  former,  a  Countess 
von  Hagen,  and  the  Countess  von  Seydewitz,  lady-in-waiting, 
immediately  called  on  me,  but  I  was  not  at  home. 

On  the  14th  I  went  to  the  palace  of  Prince  Charles,  where  I 
was  received  by  her  Royal  Highness  in  the  presence  of  her 
lady-in-waiting,  the  forenamed  Countess  Seydewitz,  one  of  the 
handsomest  ladies  and  finest  figures  I  have  ever  seen.  The 
Princess  received  me  with  the  utmost  kindness,  and  I  had 
good  reason  to  be  highly  gratified  with  my  first  appearance 
amongst  persons  belonging  to  the  Prussian  Court,  for  every- 
body was  extremely  poHte  and  kind  to  me. 


Visiting. 


On  the  same  evening  Countess  Seydewitz  called,  and  we 
drove  together  to  Baroness  Schleinitz,  wife  of  the  minister  of 
the  royal  household,  where  we  found  company.  The  conver- 
sation turned  much  upon  affairs  in  Mexico  and  the  Emperor 
Maximilian.  One  gentleman  of  the  company,  whose  name  I 
had  heard  only  imperfectly  when  he  was  presented  to  me,  ex- 
pressed himself  in  a  manner  with  which  I  did  not  agree,  and  I 
answered  him  somewhat  sharply  in  defence  of  my  late  emperor 
and  friend,  to  the  great  amusement  of  the  company,  for  that 
dissenting  gentleman  was  the  Austrian  minister. 

When  the  ice  once  was  broken  things  went  on  extremely 
well.  Many  persons  belonging  to  the  Royal  Court  called, 
amongst  them  Count  Perponcher,  and  several  other  distin- 
guished persons.  Felix  had  written  to  the  Countess  Schulem- 
burg,  requesting  an  audience  for  both  of  us.  The  Queen  was 
indisposed,  but  the  audience  was  granted  for  a  few  days  later. 

Meanwhile  I  received  a  note  from  Princess  Charles,  who 
wished  to  see  us  once  more,  as  she  was  leaving  for  Nizza. 
We  accordingly  went  to  her  palace,  and  were  presented  to  her 
husband,  Prince  Charles  of  Prussia,  the  brother  of  the  King, 
whom  he  does  not  resemble  in  the  least. 

We  received  also  visits  from  Count  Bismarck,  Prince  Ho- 
henlohe,  and  Mr.  Bancroft,  the  American  minister.  Baron 
Magnus  came  frequently,  bringing  us  good  news  in  reference 
to  the  affairs  of  my  husband,  who  was  to  my  great  satisfaction 
appointed  a  major  in  the  4th  Regiment  of  Guards,  the  regiment 
*  Queen  Augusta,'  of  which  her  Majesty  is  the  chief  Had  he 
not  left  the  Prussian  service  as  a  young  lieutenant  he  might  by 
that  time  have  been  a  colonel ;  but  Felix  was  nevertheless 
highly  gratified,  for  he  preferred  his  place  of  major  in  the 
Prussian  army  to  his  title  of  General  in  the  United  States  and 
in  Mexico. 

On  December  17  I  received  a  letter  from  Countess  Schu- 
lemburg,  saying  that  the  Queen  would  receive  us  next  day  at 
three  o'clock  p.m. 

Though  I  am  not  very  nervous  in  general,  and  the  manner 
in  which  I  had  been  received  by  her  sister  might  have  encou- 
raged me.  I  must  say  I  felt  actually  nervous  when  I  drove  to 
the  royal  palace.  Everybody  spoke  of  the  Queen  with  so 
much  love,  praising  her  kindness  and  amiability,  still  she  was 
— the  Queen.     Though  I  did  not  expect  to  see  her  with  crown 


254  Ten   Years  of  my  Life, 

and  sceptre,  I  could  not  get  rid  of  tlie  idea  that  she  would 
receive  me  sitting  on  a  thro«e  under  a  dais,  surrounded  by 
superbly-arrayed  ladies  watching  every  movement  of  mine  with 
a  criticising  eye. 

I  was  ushered  into  a  room,  where  I  did  not  see  anything  I 
had  anticipated,  and  looked  in  vain  for  a  throne.  In  that 
room  was  a  fine  and  stately  lady,  elegantly  but  simply  dressed, 
whom  I  took  for  one  of  the  Court  ladies  who  would  lead  me 
to  the  presence  of  the  Queen.  I  stopped  irresolutely,  but  when 
Felix  made  his  lowest  bow  and  kissed  the  extended  hand  of 
that  lady,  1  became  aware  that  I  was  standing  before  the  Queen 
herself.  Though  somewhat  disappointed  and  perplexed  on 
account  of  the  absent  throne  and  royal  state,  I  was  more  than 
indemnified  in  looking  on  that  noble,  beautiful  face,  with  its 
inimitably  gracious  and  benevolent  smile. 

When  the  Queen  had  taken  a  seat,  and  we  were  seated  be- 
side her,  she  commenced  speaking  about  poor  Emperor  Maxi- 
milian, whom  she  regretted  very  much.  She  was  kind  enough 
to  express  herself  very  graciously  about  the  part  I  had  played 
in  that  tragedy,  and  though  she  did  not  say  that  she  expected 
to  see  me  with  an  Indian  feather  dress  and  a  bow  and  arrows, 
or  at  least  a  revolver  in  my  belt,  I  imagine  that  the  Queen  was 
somewhat  disappointed  in  her  turn  at  seeing  a  woman  such  as 
those  of  whom  she  saw  daily  many  prettier  and  more  remark- 
able. But  whatever  impression  I  might  have  made,  her 
Majesty  was  so  exceedingly  kind  that  I  felt  highly  gratified 
and  quite  bewildered  and  happy  when  we,  after  about  half  an 
hour,  were  graciously  dismissed.  Felix  kissed  her  hand,  and  I 
wished  to  do  the  same  but  the  Queen  did  not  permit  me. 

Next  day  Felix  dined  with  the  King,  and  after  dinner  we 
drove  to  Countess  Schulemburg,  who  had  invited  us  for  the 
evening.  She  was  a  very  amiable  lady,  liked  by  everybody, 
and  extremely  kind  to  me.  Being  a  stranger  at  Court,  and 
afraid  of  sinning  frequently  against  etiquette,  I  asked  her  ad- 
vice, which  was  very  valuable  to  me. 

Some  days  later  we  dined  with  Countess  Benckendorff, 
daughter  of  General  Prince  Croy,  and  first  cousin  to  my  hus- 
band. The  Countess  is  very  rich,  and  lived  in  a  very  elegant 
house  in  the  Behrenstrasse.  We  had  many  invitations  and 
saw  very  pleasant  company,  where  I  was  both  amused  and 
shocked,   as   the   manners  of  those  high-born  German  ladies 


Cohlentz.  255 

differ  very  much  from  those  of  the  Americans.  Though  the 
opinion  ])revai!s  in  Germany  that  American  ladies  are  very 
fast,  I  must  say  that  the  German  ladies  have  no  great  cause  fo** 
blaming  and  criticising  them,  for  from  what  I  heard  and  saw 
I  came  to  the  conclusion  that  they  beat  in  this  respect  their 
American  sisters.  I  was  much  astonished  on  seeing  many  of 
the  ladies  smoke  in  company  with  the  gentlemen,  not  only 
cigarettes,  but  cigars,  like  old  smokers.  I  thought  it  best  to 
do  in  Rome  as  the  Romans  do,  and  smoked  also,  though  I  do 
not  like  it.  The  Queen  is  rather  strict,  and  not  pleased  at  all 
with  the  fast  manners  of  these  ladies,  but  though  they  behave 
well  01  course  in  her  presence,  they  do  as  they  please  when 
amongst  themselves. 

On  Monday,  December  21,  Felix  left  for  Coblentz  to  join 
his  regiment,  and  after  having  made  all  my  arrangt^nents  and 
paid  my  farewell  visits,  I  followed  him  on  the  24th,  and  met 
him  next  day  at  the  station  in  Dusseldorf  with  Count  Her- 
mann Salm  and  the  hereditary  Prince  of  Anholt.  'Wq  stayed 
a  day  in  Bonn  to  celebrate  my  and  Felix's  birthday,  for  we 
were  both  born  on  December  25,  a  curious  coincidence. 

On  the  26th  we  arrived  in  Coblentz,  our  future  home.  Hav- 
ing no  house  yet,  we  remained  in  the  Hotel  de  Treves,  which 
is  a  most  comfortable  hotel. 

I  need  not  describe  Coblentz,  for  everybody  has  visited  the 
Rhine.  It  is  certainly  a  beautiful  place,  and  the  favourite 
residence  of  Queen  Augusta,  who  has  done  much  to  beautify 
it  with  splendid  promenades  and  tastefully  laid-out  grounds, 
an  undertaking  which  offered  great  difficulties,  arising  from  the 
circumstance  that  Coblentz  is  a  fortress,  but  which  has  been 
carried  out  with  a  success  as  perfect  as  can  be.  The  new 
promenade  is  a  great  ornament  to  the  city,  and  will  remain  an 
everlasting,  endearing  monument  of  the  predilection  and  love 
ot  Queen  Augusta  for  Ct>blentz. 

The  frequent  presence  of  the  Queen  had  in  every  respect 
its  influence  in  this  city.  It  changed,  as  it  were,  its  character 
oi  a  provincial  town,  and  bestowed  on  it  many  advantages  and 
peculiarities  of  Royal  residences.  Though  this  mfluence  ex- 
tended more  or  less  over  all  classes  of  inhabitants,  it  made  itseli 
especially  felt  on  those  forming  the  society  of  Coblentz.  This 
society  consisted,  as  almost  everywhere  in  Prussia,  ot  the 
families  of  persons  who  are  employed  in  the  service  of  the 


256  Ten   Years  of  my  Life. 

Government,  'and  amongst  these  tlie  military  ofiicers  formed 
the  most  numerous  and  the  leading  part. 

In  no  other  country  military  officers  occupy  a  position  in  so- 
ciety similar  to  that  in  Prussia,  and  it  is  the  natural  conse- 
quence of  the  justly  admired  and  praised  military  organisation 
of  this  country.  It  is  generally  acknowledged  that  Prussia 
owes  to  this  organisation  its  prominent  place  amongst  the  States 
of  Europe,  and  other  countries  are  endeavouring  to  introduce 
this  excellent  system,  hoping  thus  soon  to  reach  similar  results, 
and  to  counteract  the  military  and  political  preponderance  of 
that  Power. 

Though  it  cannot  be  denied  that  the  victories  won  on  the 
battlefield  by  the  Prussian  army  are  the  result  of  this  military 
system,  and  that  the  imitation  even  of  the  mechanism  of  this 
system  must  increase  the  efficiency  of  rival  armies,  it  will  not 
be  sufficient  to  produce  the  same  effect  as  in  Prussia,  if  those 
rival  States  do  not  endeavour  to  create  amongst  their  people 
the  same  spirit  and  feeling  which  pervade  the  Prussian  nation. 

Other  nations,  prejudiced  and  blinded  by  vanity,  will  indig- 
nantly contradict  even  the  suggestion  that  this  spirit  and  feel- 
ing amongst  the  Prussians  are  of  a  higher  order  than  amongst 
themselves,  and  will  point  to  former  successes  and  to  the  pa- 
triotism and  sell-sacrificing  enthusiasm  shown  under  urgent  cir- 
cumstances. These  historical  facts  are  undeniable,  but  they 
only  prove  that  all  nations,  if  stnnulated  by  extraordinary 
agencies,  are  able  to  act  just  as  bravely  as  the  Germans  did  in 
the  last  war.  Courage  and  patriotism  are  to  be  found  even 
amongst  the  most  debased  nations,  and  it  requires  only  the 
proper  means  to  awake  them  from  their  slumber.  Other  armies 
have  fought  just  as  bravely  as  the  Prussians,  and  other  people 
have  shown  even  more  enthusiasm  than  they  did,  when  their 
national  independence  or  liberty  were  endangered. 

If  tiie  superior  scientific  military  skill  of  Prussian  generals 
and  the  superior  tactics  of  their  troops  won  the  victories  on 
the  battlefields,  the  educational  virtue  of  the  Prussian  military 
system — whether  intentionally  or  only  indirectly,  I  am  not  able 
to  judge — has  had  other  effects  which  are  perhaps  even  more 
important  and  beneficial  than  those  that  were  the  real  cause 
of  the  introduction  of  this  system.  In  Prussia  these  educa- 
tional effects  are  fully  appreciated  by  most  people,  but  I  be- 
lieve they  are  not  sufficiently  noticed  in  other  countries,  and  I 


Prussian  Military  Tactics.  257 

must  say  that  I  had  not  even  an  idea  of  them  before  I  came 
to  Prussia,  and  belonged  as  it  were  myself  to  its  army. 

It  always  seemed  to  me  astonishing  that  many  nations  should 
leave  the  defence  of  their  country  and  its  interests  to  hirelings, 
for  I  should  think  that  the  protection  of  his  home  and  family 
was  the  most  sacred  and  most  noble  duty  of  every  citizen.  It 
was  thought  so  at  least  in  olden  times.  But  we  find  almost 
everywhere  that  with  the  increase  of  wealth  and  opulence 
people  acquired  different  ideas,  and  that  they  found  it  more 
convenient  to  pay  men  who  made  war  their  profesr.ion.  The 
consequences  were  in  all  cases  the  same.  The  standing  armies 
created  everywhere  despotism  and  tyranny,  and  once  free  and 
noble  nations  became  debased.  When  this  effect  was  felt  it 
was  almost  too  late,  and  to  remedy  this  evil  was  so  difficult 
that  more  than  a  century  has  passed  by  without  removing  all 
the  pernicious  influences.  These  influences  are  still  felt,  and 
they  are  the  cause  of  the  repugnance  which  rival  nations  feel 
against  the  introduction  of  the  Prussian  military  system. 

If  we  look  at  the  state  of  the  standing  armies  of  past  times> 
which,  however,  are  still  in  the  memory  of  many  living,  we  find 
that  their  elements  consisted  of  the  dregs  of  the  nation. 
Whoever  was  not  thought  good  for  anything  else  was  still 
judged  good  enough  to  become  a  soldier  Thus  it  came  about 
that  the  presence  of  an  army  had  everywhere  a  demoralising 
effect,  and  that  citizens  looked  upon  soldiers  with  aversion,  if 
not  with  disgust.  The  armies  were  not  only  despised  as  herds 
of  demoralisation,  they  were  also  hated  as  the  tools  of  despots, 
and  it  is  very  characteristic  that  the  desperate  declaration  of  a 
member  of  an  honest  family  to  go  amongst  the  soldiers,  was 
received  with  a  horror  which  very  old  people  even  in  Prussia 
remember  still  with  a  smile  ;  a  horror  which  by  no  means  has 
died  out  everywhere,  for  this  traditional  and  once  well-justified 
aversion  of  citizens  against  the  profession  of  arms  has  remained 
still,  enough  in  many  countries  to  counteract  the  introduction 
of  the  Prussian  military  system  in  such  a  manner  as  to  compel 
the  Governments  to  act  with  great  caution  and  reluctance. 
And  even  these  Governments  seem  to  be  far  from  understand- 
ing the  spirit  of  this  system,  which  is  proved  by  introducing, 
as  I  have  said  before,  only  its  mechanical  organisation,  ascri- 
bing to  it  solely  the  admirable  successes  of  the  Prussian 
armies.     The  consequence  will  be  a  very  imperfect  result,  and 


258  Ten  Years  of  ray  Life. 

Germany,  which  has  now  adopted  the  Prussian  system  in  its 
perfection,  may  look  on  these  4veak  endeavours  of  their  rivals 
without  apprehension. 

The  present  generation  in  Prussia  has  groAvn  up  under  this 
system,  conceived  and  introduced  by  enlightened  statesmen, 
and  it  has  changed  the  whole  character  of  the  people  in  a 
most  wonderful  manner.  By  this  system  the  army,  once  a 
hotbed  of  vice  and  degradation,  notwithstanding  its  great  effi- 
ciency from  a  purely  military  point  of  v'iqw^  has  become  as  it 
were  the  high  school  for  the  nation,  where  young  people  ac- 
quire those  qualities  which  make  them  not  only  efficient  sol- 
diers, but  also  good  men  and  citizens — both  able  to  defend  the 
independence  of  the  nation  against  foreign  arrogance  and 
aggression,  and  the  law  and  Government  against  internal 
enemies. 

The  Prussian  schools  have  a  reputation  throughout  the 
world,  but  their  progress  and  success  was  hindered  greatly  by 
influences  from  which  they  have  been  freed  only  quite  recently; 
and  without  the  course  of  training  which  every  Prussian  has 
got  to  undergo  in  the  army,  where  these  hindering  influences 
were  less  powerful,  Prussia  would  not  have  been  enabled  to  get 
to  be  the  head  of  Germany  and  to  make  that  country  what  it 
is  now. 

In  Prussia  every  able-bodied  young  man  must  enter  the 
regular  army,  and  for  a  certain  time,  varying  from  one  to  three 
years,  be  a  soldier  ;  that  is,  he  must  join  some  regiment,  and 
remain  with  it  all  the  time.  Nobody  is  exempted — -nobleman 
and  peasant,  prince  and  artisan — all  have  to  enter  the  army  as 
private  soldiers  :  substitutes  are  not  permitted.  The  time  of 
presence  with  the  regiment  is  three  years,  as  a  rule,  but  excep^ 
tions  are  made  for  the  so-called  volunteers,  who  have  to  serve 
only  one  year.  Though  they  have  to  pay  a  certain  very  mode- 
rate amount  of  money  for  their  equipment,  this  advantage  is 
by  no  means  granted  them  by  reason  of  this  payment.  A 
young  man  might  ofter  hundreds  of  thousands  for  it  without 
success,  if  he  were  not  able  to  prove  that  he  has  that  degree 
of  education  which  permits  the  supposition  that  a  shorter 
presence  with  the  army  would  be  sufficient  to  make  him  a  per- 
fect soldier.  Every  one  who  claims  this  advantage  has  to  sub- 
mit to  an  examination,  or  to  produce  a  testimony  from  the 
head-master  of  one  of  the  Royal  Colleges  (Gymnasiums),  sta- 


,  Education  of  the  Soldier.  259 

tins  that  he  has  advanced  to  a  certain  form  of  this  educational 
institution. 

To  foreigners  it  seems  extremely  hard  that  young  men  have 
to  interrupt  their  career  for  such  a  long  time  to  play  at  soldiers. 
National  economists  are  indignant  that  so  many  hands  are 
taken  away  from  industry  or  agriculture,  calculating  to  the 
penny  what  damage  is  done  by  it  to  the  country.  Though 
these  calculations  may  be  very  correct,  these  adversaries  to  tne 
Prussian  military  system  forget  that  this  loss  is  more  than  suffi- 
ciently compensated  for  by  the  improvement  of  these  hands  ; 
for  the  agriculturist  and  tradesman  will  be  sent  back  to  his 
home  endowed  with  qualities  which  enable  him  to  follow  his 
occupation  with  far  greater  success  than  before.  He  does  not 
learn  only  how  to  handle  his  gun  and  to  practise  the  goose- 
step  ;  he  has  to  undergo  a  course  of  education  which  makes 
him  in  every  respect  a  better  man.  Care  is  not  only  taken  to 
improve  and  complete  what  he  has  learnt  in  his  rural  school, 
his  bodily  development  is  likewise  considered.  Besides  this, 
and  that  is  highly  important,  he  becomes  used  to  order  and 
cleanliness,  and  by  intercourse  with  his  comrades  his  views  are 
enlarged  and  his  whole  tenor  of  life  improved. 

His  comrades  are  not,  as  was  in  olden  times  the  case,  the 
scum  of  the  nation,  for  at  his  elbow  stand  in  rank  and  file  the 
young  men  of  the  best  families  of  the  country  ;  and  even  if  one 
should  bring  with  him  low  habits  and  propensities,  the  example 
and  influence  of  this  class  of  comrades,  which  is  rather  prevail- 
ing in  number  in  consequence  of  the  attention  paid  to  national 
education,  would  serve  as  a  check  and  improve  his  morals. 

After  having  served  his  time  with  his  regiment  a  young  man 
will,  in  most  cases,  return  much  altered  and  improved,  and  as 
his  connection  with  the  army  is  not  ended  yet  with  his  term  of 
actual  service,  this  salutary  influence  will  always  be  refreshed 
by  his  annual  return  for  a  few  weeks  to  some  military  body. 
Up  to  a  certain  age  this  connection  with  the  army  is  continued  ; 
he  belongs  to  the  Landwehr,  and  in  case  of  war  he  has  to  join 
his  regiment  at  the  shortest  notice.  The  last  war  has  shown 
what  this  Landwehr  really  is,  and  gloriously  proved  in  every 
respect  the  excellence  of  the  Prussian  military  system.  Hard 
as  it  seemed  to  foreigners  that  married  men  had  to  leave  their 
families  and  avocations  to  fight  the  French,  '  because  their 
king  was  slighted  by  the  minister  of  Napoleon  HI.,'  they  had 


260        .  Ten  Years  of  my  Life. 

plenty  of  opportunity  to  see  with  what  joyous  readiness  every- 
body followed  the  summons,  proving  that  these  soldiers  were 
not  mere  killing  machines,  but  enlightened  citizens,  who 
understood  perfecdy  that  they  were  called  upon  to  defend  what 
is  most  sacred  to  every  thinking  man. 

Oflicers  commanding  Prussian  soldiers  must  possess  qualities 
to  make  them  fit  to  command  such  men.  Discipline  is  a 
powerful  agent  in  an  army,  and  formerly  it  was  the  only  means 
to  govern  the  wild,  unruly  rabble.  It  is  still  an  indispensable 
necessity,  but  in  the  Prussian  army  of  to-day  it  has  to  be  main- 
tained in  a  manner  different  from  that  applied  a  century  ago. 
Those  barbarous  punishments,  of  which  we  read  shudderingly, 
cannot  be  applied  any  more;  brutal  force  alone  will  not  do  ; 
discipline  must  now  be  sustained  by  the  intellectual  and  moral 
value  of  those  wielding  its  power.  Ruffians  might  be  com- 
manded by  worthless  men,  if  they  had  only  courage  and  know- 
ledge of  their  military  duties;  Prussian  soldiers,  as  I  described 
them  above,  can  only  be  commanded  by  officers  who  are 
gentlemen  in  every  respect.  This  necessity  is  fully  acknow- 
ledged by  the  Prussian  Government,  and  the  utmost  care  is 
taken  in  the  education  of  officers.  It  is  not  sufficient  for  them 
to  know  their  duty  in  the  field  and  on  the  drilling-ground  ; 
they  must  possess  a  certain  degree  of  general  education,  enabl- 
ing them  to  hold  their  ground  in  every  grade  of  society. 

The  examination  through  which  ofiicers  have  to  pass  is 
rather  difficult,  and  no  influence  whatever  can  make  it  more 
easy.  I  know  princes  who  found  it  too  hard  and  could  not 
become  officers.  I  know  even  a  case,  where  a  count,  con- 
nected with  the  most  influential  persons,  had  to  enter  the  army 
as  a  private  soldier  for  three  years,  because  he  was  not  able  to 
pass  his  examination  as  a  volunteer  ! 

It  is  therefore  not  to  be  wondered  at  that  the  epaulette  is 
the  key  to  every  society.  Everybody  knows  that  an  officer  is 
a  gentleman,  which  is  by  no  means  the  case  in  all  other  coun- 
tries. This  favoured  position  of  the  military  officers  in  Prussia 
is  the  necessary  and  natural  consequence  of  its  military  system, 
and  also  the  reason  why  many  nobleman  and  others  who  have 
means  enough  to  live  independently  remain  all  their  life  long 
in  the  army. 

It  would,  however,  be  erroneous  to  suppose  that  all  effects 
of  the  former  state  of  things  have  died  out  in  the  Prussian 


.  Rival  Regiments.  2G1 

army.  Traditional  ideas  and  prejudices  are  not  easily  effaced, 
and  many  of  them  are  still  to  be  traced  even  in  the  present 
Prussian  army  ',  and  military  chiefs  who  became  officers  when 
the  idea  and  word  of  '  constitution '  was  still  offensive,  think 
their  maintenance  not  only  beneficial  but  even  absolutely 
necessary.  Civilians  and  young  representatives  of  the  people 
will  not  admit  that  the  position  of  officers  is  an  exceptional  one, 
requiring  a  different  treatment  both  from  the  laws  of  the  country 
and  society,  and  assert  that  this  idea  is  still  a  remnant  of  the 
old  bad  regime,  when  officers  prided  themselves  in  being  body- 
servants  to  the  King,  and  felt  indignant  when  reminded  that 
they  were  servants  of  the  State  and  people.  I  can  only  state 
the  fact  that  something  of  this  feeling  is  still  existing,  and  that 
officers  think  themselves  nearer  connected  with  the  King  than 
any  officer  of  the  civil  service.  This  feeling  will  *remain  in 
existence  as  long  as  Prussia  remains  what  is  called  a  military 
State,  and  as  long  as  the  King  and  all  princes  of  his  house 
wear  the  military  uniform. 

Another  reminiscence  of  old  traditions  is  the  rivalry  between 
the  officers  of  the  Guards  and  those  belonging  to  the  Line, 
the  former  imagining  that  they  hold  a  higher  rank,  which  again 
is  the  feeling  of  the  officers  of  the  Line  in  reference  to  those  of 
the  Landvvehr.  Without  examining  the  cause  and  justice  of 
this  feeling,  I  will  only  state  from  experience  that  it  is  also  still 
existing,  or  at  least  was  existing  when  my  husband  entered  the 
regiment  '  Queen  Augusta.' 

This  regiment  belonged  to  the  Guards,  and  being  garrisot^ed 
out  of  its  district,  on  account  of  the  Queen's  frequent  residence 
in  Coblentz,  it  occupied  in  that  garrison  a  separate,  rather 
independent  position,  its  Colonel  being  its  highest  authority 
there,  for  brigadier,  division,  and  corps  commanders  were  in 
Berlin.  The  officers  of  this  regiment  mostly  kept  amongst 
themselves  ;  an  intimate  intercourse  between  them  and  families 
belonging  to  other  regiments  was  exceptional  and  rare.  The 
families  of  a  few  of  the  highest  civil  officers  residing  in  Coblentz, 
as  in  the  capital  of  a  district,  acted  as  it  were  as  the  only  con- 
necting links  between  the  families  of  our  regiment  and  tho^e 
belonging  to  the  troops  of  the  Line. 

Many  officers  of  the  regiment  '  Queen  Augusta  '  were  mar- 
ried, and  these  different  families  formed  as  it  were  only  one. 
I  was  received  in  this  family  with  a  readiness  and  cordiality 


2G2  Ten   Years  of  'my  Life. 

which  pleased  me  greatly,  and  to  which  I  responded  widi  all 
my  heart. 

After  the  unsettled  life  I  had  led  since  my  marriage,  and  all 
the  exciting  scenes  I  had  witnessed,  I  longed  for  rest  and  a 
home  ;  my  hope  of  finding  in  little  Coblentz  a  happy  home  was 
much  increased  by  this  amiable  behaviour  of  the  ladies  to- 
wards me.  I  shall  always  remember  the  time  of  my  sojourn 
in  that  city  with  very  pleasant  feelings  and  gratitude. 

i 


263 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 

Our  society — Countess  Haake — In  Berlin  with  the  Corvins — Anot'fa? 
audience  with  the  Queen — The  King — A  queer  cousin — Prince  SaL-x.- 
Horstmar — A  princely  apostle — Housekeeping  lessons — Mr.  General 
von  S . — Salm's  revolt — I  try  my  hand  at  match-making — Excur- 
sions— Mr.   Moriary — Princess  S W and  her  sons — M^sal- 

-  liances — A  poetical  friend — Coblentz  life — Public  tea-gardens — The 
<^ueen  in  Coblentz — Princess  Liegnitz — 'Uncle  Herrmann' — The 
Grand  Duchess  Dowager  of  Mecklenburg — in  Ems — Their  Majesties 
The  Queen  as  a  godmother — Baron  Gerolt — Why  he  resigned — Mr. 
Bancroft— His  meanness — In  Ems  with  his  Majesty — My  cousin,  the 
Duchess  of  Osuna — Breakfast  with  their  Majesties  at  Sayn — Military 
manoeuvres — Visit  to  Anholt — Prince  and  Princess  of  Weid — A  party 
at  her  Majesty's — Grand  Duchess  of  Baden  and  Pi incess  William — A 
ball  at  her  Majesty's — I  dance  with  the  Grand  Duke  of  Weimar — 
Breakfast  at  her  Majesty's-  -Dinner  at  Neuweid — Prince  and  Princess 
of  Roumania — The  Count  of  Flanders — Departure  of  the  Queen- 
Christmas  in  Anholt — A  battue — Bitter  reflections. 

Had  I  the  talent  of  writing  novels,  I  should  find  many  inter- 
esting types  of  character  within  the  circle  of  our  society  in 
Coblentz  ;  but  not  having  this  talent  I  shall  restrict  myself  to 
very  hurried  sketches. 

Life  within  the  circle  of  regimental  society  has  its  peculiari- 
ties, originating  from  a  combination  of  causes.  The  officers 
belonging  to  it  though  differing  in  military  rank  and  age,  are 
in  reference  to  society  all  equals,  members  of  one  family.  The 
wife  of  an  officer  is  no  isolated  being,  who  may  live  as  she 
pleases  ;  she  belongs  to  a  corporation,  who  claims  the  right  to 
control  her  behaviour  in  a  more  extended  degree  than  general 
society,  and  she  has  to  submit  to  the  customs  and  laws  of  this 
corporation,  which  are  the  result  of  the  exceptional  position  of 
officers.  In  everything  she  does  she  must  consider  the  interest 
and  feeling  of  the  corps  to  which  she  belongs,  as  the  actions  oi 


264  Ten   Years  of  my  Life, 

each  single  member  reflect  on  the  whole  community.  In  con- 
>equence  of  these  relations  an  officer  is  not  at  liberty  to  marry 
as  he  pleases  ;  he  can  only  choose  a  wife  who  is  considered  by 
the  whole  corps  as  worthy  to  enter  the  family.  Does  passion 
lead  him  to  disregard  this,  he  must  cease  to  be  an  officer. 
From  this  results  the  advantage  that  each  Avife  of  an  officer 
shares  all  the  social  advantages  granted  to  his  class.  The 
title  of  wife  of  an  officer  admits  her  to  every  society,  for  she 
must  be  a  gentlewoman,  an  advantage  which  is  not  granted  to 
all  wives  of  officers  in  the  civil  service,  even  if  the  rank  of  their 
husbands  should  be  considered  higher. 

This  is,  I  think,  the  principal  cause  why  almost  everywhere 
in  Prussia  the  officers'  families  take  the  lead  in  society,  which 
is  most  decidedly  the  case  in  places  like  Coblentz,  which  have 
a  large  garrison. 

Society  in  that  city  acquires  still  an  additional  tinge,  making 
it  different  from  that  in  other  garrison  towns,  by  the  frequent 
presence  of  the  Queen  in  Coblentz.  for  the  officers  and  the 
wives  of  officers  belonging  to  the  Queen's  own  regiment  were 
considered  as  it  were  forming  part  of  her  Court.  This  being 
the  case,  the  admittance  of  a  new  member  was  not  alone  left 
over  to  the  high  military  authorities,  but  more  to  the  decision 
of  the  Queen,  This  was  the  cause  why  the  appointment  of 
my  husband  was  delayed,  for  the  King  would  not  act  for  him- 
self, but  had  first  to  ascertain  the  wishes  of  the  Queen,  who 
was  then  absent  from  Berlin. 

It  was  one  of  my  first  duties  to  call  upon  the  ladies  of  our 
regiment  and  make  their  acquaintance,  as  well  as  that  of  some 
other  ladies  forming  part  of  their  society. 

The  former  Colonel  of  our  regiment  had  become  a  Major- 
General,  and  his  official  connection  with  his  former  command 
had  ceased,  though  he  remained  in  Coblentz.  His  wife  had 
also  to  resign  her  place  as  mother  of  the  regimental  family, 
which  had  to  be  reserved  for  the  wife  of  his  successor ;  but  she 
loved  her  old  regiment,  and  resigned  her  place  of  mother  only 
for  that  of  a  grandmother. 

Mrs.    General  von  S was  a  very  lively,  sharp-witted, 

nimble-tongued  lady,  whose  conversation  was  pleasant  and 
amusing,  because  always  seasoned  with  a  particle  of  gossip 
and  7nedisance.  An  adept  in  housekeeping,  she  knew  exactly 
the  price  of  butter  and  eggs,  and  could  calculate  to  a  farthing 


Our  Society.  265 

how  much  a  penny  would  fetch  at  compound  interest  in  a 
century.  She  did  not  put  her  hght  under  a  bushel,  but  liked 
both  being  asked  for  advice  and  giving  it  amply  and  in  minute 
details. 

She  was  not  quite  adored  by  the  wife  of  the  Lieutenant- 
Colonel,  Mrs.  von   G ,  a  very  true-hearted,  good  woman, 

much  beloved  by  every  one.  She  became  my  most  intimate 
friend.  Amongst  her  many  talents  was  one  of  verse-making, 
and  I  served  now  and  then  as  a  target  for  her  poetical  arrows 
She  was  a  highly  accomplished  lady,  and  I  think  of  her  often 
with  love,  and  regret  that  fate  bid  us  part. 

The  handsomest  lady  in  our  regiment  was  the  young  wife  of 
Captain  von  C .  She  was  the  daughter  of  a  Polish  coun- 
tess, whose  husband  had  taken  part  in  the  revolutions  of  his 
country,  and  who,  after  his  early  death,  had  been  leading  a 
rather  roving,  adventurous  life,  which  had  not  remained  with- 
out influence  on  her  young  daughter  ;  she  was,  however,  greatly 
admired  by  all  gentlemen,  for  she  was  very  pretty,  elegant  in 
manner  and  toilet,  rather  lively  and  coquettish,  and  very  well 
educated,  speaking  German,  French,  EngUsh,  and  Polish 
fluently. 

The  sister  of  her  husband  was  the  wife  of  a  civilian  officer, 

Mr.  von  M ,  a  very  good  and  agreeable  woman,  who .  had 

the  great  misfortune  of  losing  her  husband  by  a  sudden  dis- 
tressing illness. 

The  highest  civil  officer  in  the  district  was  Mr.  von  P , 

a  very  distinguished,  able  man,  much  beloved  and  respected 
by  everybody.  His  wife  was  not  so  much  liked  as  her  hus 
band,  for  she  was  an  extremely  weak,  always  undecided  and 
fluttered  woman,  on  whom  one  never  could  rely.  She  had  a 
son  who  was  a  lieutenant  in  our  regiment,  and  a  fine  grown-up 
daughter. 

A  general  f.ivourite  of  all  ladies  and  gentlemen  was  the 
most  excellent  wife  of  the  Landrath  of  the  district,  Mrs.  von 

F .     She  appeared  to  me  perfection  in  every  respect,  and 

was  indeed  an  accomplished  lady,  wife,  mother,  and  house- 
keeper ;  and  with  all  these  qualities  combining  beauty,  high 
education,  kindness  of  heart,  and  great  amiability.  Her  house- 
hold and  family  might  have  served  as  a  pattern.     Mrs.  von 

F was  the  realised  ideal  of  a  German  matron,  as  it  lives 

in  the  fancy  of  German  poets.     She  had  a  family  of  eight 


266  Ten   Years  of  "iny  Life. 

children,  and  I  did  not  see  any  reason  why  it  should  stop  at 

that  number.      With  all  that  Mrs.  F was  very  elegant. 

She  was,  in  fact,  the  leader  of  our  society,  and  nobody  thought 
even  of  disputing  her  this  place. 

I  do  not  think  there  is  to  be  found  anywhere  a  society  with- 
out a  sprinkling  of  old  maids,  either  belonging  to  the  subdued, 
soft,  resigned  class,  who  have  not  found  a  husband  though 
deserving  one,  or  to  the  crabbed,  prickly  species,  who  have 
remained  single  because  they  were  too  clever  and  sharp,  and 
frightened  away  marrying  men  ;  spinsters  with  eyes  as  search- 
ing as  those  of  custom-house  officers,  tongues  as  sharp  as 
razors,  and  wagging  even  in  sleep. 

We  were  not  neglected  in  this  respect  either,  and  favoured 
with  a  number  of  noble  spinsters  belonging  to  the  latter  class, 
and  being  held  in  high  respect,  alloyed  with  some  dread,  not 
because  they  were  bad-tempered  or  malicious,  but  on  account 
of  their  awful  cleverness.  They  understood  everything  best, 
and  were  not  stingy  with  their  treasure  of  knowledge  either  ; 
they  gave  it  away  lavishh^,  even  without  being  asked.  They 
had*  studied  everything,  read  every  book  or  pamphlet,  and 
whenever  a  topic  turned  up  in  conversation,  and  one  of  them 
was  present,  Brockhaus,  Pierer,  and  Meyer  might  remain  un- 
disturbed, for  each  of  them  was  a  living  encyclopaedia. 

Another  unmarried  lady  who  now  and  then  appeared 
amongst  us  was  Countess  Haake,  the  '  Palast  Dame '  of  the 
Queen,  who  had  been  with  her  since  her  Majesty's  entrance 
into  Berlin  in  1827,  and  it  may  be  imagined  that  everybody 
strove  to  win  her  good  graces.  I  need  not  say  more  about 
this  lady,  as  I  have  stated  somewhere  else  that  she  strikingly 
resembled  the  Princess  Iturbide  of  Mexico. 

Though  everything  in  the  Hotel  de  Treves,  where  we  lived 
first,  \vas  excellent,  our  first  care  was  to  look  out  for  a  house. 
Assisted  by  good  luck  and  our  new  friends,  we  found  one  which 
suited  us  in  every  respect,  and  I  went  in  February  to  Berlin  to 
buy  my  furniture  and  other  things  required  for  housekeeping. 
Not  liking  to  live  in  an  hotel  without  my  husband,  I  accepted 
the  invitation  of  the  Corvins  to  stay  with  them. 

On  the  day  of  my  arrival  I  called  on  Countess  Schulemburg, 
requesting  an  audience  with  the  Queen,  who  received  me  on 
February  23  even  more  graciously  than  the  first  time.  After 
having  been  with  her  a  short  time  she  rose,  calling  out,   '  His 


Prince  Charles  Salmi-Horstinar.  267 

Majesty  ! '  I  rose  hurriedly,  and  was  presented  to  the  King, 
who  had  entered.  He  received  me  very  kindly,  and  having 
taken  notice  of  that  part  of  my  diary  contained  in  my  hus- 
band's book,  he  spoke  of  Mexico,  complimenting  me  most 
graciously  about  my  '  tapferes  Benehmen/  He  spoke  Ger- 
man, the  Queen  kindly  interpreting  what  he  said,  though  he 
understood  what  I  answered  in  EngHsh.  His  presence  made 
on  me  the  same  impression  as  on  everybody  who  had  had  the 
honour  of  being  addressed  by  him,  and  I  now  understood  per- 
fectly the  love  and  enthusiasm  with  which  my  husband  always 
spoke  of  his  Majesty.  He  remained  about  five  minutes,  and 
I  then  went  home  quite  delighted  with  my  reception. 

During  this  stay  in  Berlin  I  made  the  acquaintance  of  a 
rather  queer  and  original  relative  of  my  husband,  Prince 
Charles  Salm-Horstmar,  and  his  wife,  a  born  Princess  Hohen- 
lohe.  The  Prince  was  a  great  devotee  and  philanthropist,  but 
nothing  of  this  was  betrayed  by  his  exterior,  for  though  he  was 
lame  he  was  dressed  in  a  highly  dandified  style,  to  which  the 
very  simple,  almost  homely  appearance  of  his  wife  formed  a 
rather  strange  contrast.  He  was  an  enthusiastic  promoter  of 
piety  and  virtue,  and  he  and  his  wife  had  undertaken  to  estab- 
lish a  reformatory  for  unfortunate  girls,  but  they  had  to  give  it 
up  in  despair.  Having  some  doubts  about  matrimony  in  com- 
bination with  his  profession  of  apostle,  he  had  resolved  to  re- 
main a  bachelor  all  his  life,  and  in  consequence  of  this  fancy 
renounced  the  majorate  of  his  family  to  his  )c>unger  brother. 
But  even  the  most  devoted  men  are  not  shot-proof  against  the 
arrows  of  the  little  great  mischief-maker,  and  our  pious  cousin 
fell  desperately  in  love  with  Princess  Elise,  before  whose  charms 
his  celibate  resolutions  crumbled  to  dust.  Princess  Elise  did 
not  exactly  share  the  abnegatory  inclinations  of  her  virtuous 
Prince  Charles  ;  she  regretted  much  the  renunciation  of  the 
majorate,  which  left  her  husband  only  a  very  moderate  income, 
and  thinking  that  money  was  no  hindrance  to  devotion,  she 
*ried  all  she  could  to  find  a  legal'  flaw  in  the  proceeding,  but 
without  success. 

While  Felix  was  still  sowing  his  wild  oats  and  persecuted  by 
the  Jews,  his  pious  cousin  imagined  that  this  was  the  proper 
time  for  working  the  salvation  of  his  soul.  Being  still  rich  at 
that  time,  he  thought  it  necessary  to  win  first  the  confidence  of 
Felix  by'  keeping  at  bay  the  hooked-nosed  fiends  who  troubled 


268  .     Ten  Years  of  my  Life.  * 

him,  a  well-conceived  stratagem  which  would  have  been  per- 
haps successful  if  my  poor  husband  had  had  any  talent  for  de- 
votion. I  am,  however,  sorry  to  say  that  he  was  then  very 
worldly,  and  though  he  consented  to  live  with  his  would-be 
reformer  in  Paris,  and  even  to  join  in  his  devotions  and  prayer 
meetings,  he  cheated  him  in  a  very  wicked  manner. 

Every  night  when  the  princely  apostle  had  dismissed  him 
after  prayer  with  his  blessing  to  his  bed,  my  scapegrace  hus- 
band stealthily  left  the  house  through  a  back  window,  where 
his  friend  and  comrade  Kalmar  waited  for  him  to  join  some 
meeting,  which  was  no  prayer  meeting,  whilst  Prince  Charles, 
somewhat  suspecting  the  effect  of  his  teaching,  watched  the 
front  door  of  the  house. 

When  my  husband  was  induced  to  leave  for  America,  his 
cousin  crammed  his  trunks  with  tracts  and  pious  books,  the 
latter  to  be  studied  on  the  passage  and  the  former  to  be  dis- 
tributed amongst  the  savages  and  civilized  wicked  Americans. 
When  living  for  a  time  with  my  husband  in  New  York,  I 
found  all  these  packages  still  unopened.  Discovering  these 
spiritual  treasures,  I  presented  them  to  my  Methodist  landlord, 
acquiring  by  this  gift  an  undeserved  odour  of  sanctity. 

On  Ai)ril  lo  I  moved  at  last  to  my  new  lodgings.  It  was 
in  the  first  storey  of  a  nice  house,  consisting  of  ten  rooms,  and 
was  very  convenient.  Though  married  several  years  I  hud 
never  had  a  home  of  my  own,  and  having  lived  much  m  the 
camp  and  there  become  used  to  shift-making  of  every  descrip- 
tion, I  felt  highly  satisfied  with  the  completeness  of  riiy  ar- 
rangements and  with  my  nice  furniture,  though  it  was  in  fact 
very  simple.  As  ofticers  can  never  be  certain  how  long  they 
will  be  permitted  to  stay  at  one  place,  moderation  in  this  re- 
spect was  strongly  advised  by  Mrs.  General  von  S and  my 

poetical  friend,  the  wife  of  the  Lieutenant-Colonel,  who  were 
my  tutors  and  teachers  in  everything  concerning  domestic 
arrangements  and  housekeeping.  Though  I  felt  extremely 
proud  and  happy  to  have  at  last  a  home  of  my  own,  it  was  still 
not  exactly  what  I  longed  for,  for  my  ideas  of  home  differed 
from  those  of  people  in  Germany,  and  were  more  those  of  the 
English. 

I  have  mentioned  before  that  the  grandmother  of  our  regi- 
ment,   Mrs.  von  S ,  was  an  excellent  housekeeper.     She 

was  delighted  to  find  me  utterly  ignorant  in  this  respect,  and 


My  First  Home.  269 

most  eager  to  listen  to  her  culinary  and  other  revelations.  As 
the  pay  of  officers  is  rather  insufficient,  considering  the  posi- 
tion they  are  expected  to  hold  in  society,  strict  economy  be- 
comes a  necessity  with  them,  and  Mrs.  von  S was  an 

adept  in  all  these  mysteries.  She  had  calculated  to  the  farth- 
ing the  price  of  everything,  and  tried  especially  to  impress 
upon  my  mind  the  great  truth  that  one  silbergroschen  spent 
regularly  a  day  makes  twelve  thalers  a  year ;  therefore  ten  sil- 
bergroschens  a  day  make  a  hundred  and  twenty  thalers,  a  cal- 
culation which  struck  me  with  awe.  This  great  truth  therefore 
became  my  guiding  star  through  the  maze  of  housekeeping, 
and  I  was  such  an  apt  scholar,  or  at  least  such  an  eager  one, 
that  I  in  my  ambition  not  only  adhered  to  the  strict  rules  laid 

down  by  Airs,  von  S-^ ,  but  even  surpassed  them.     That  all 

servants  were  thieves  was  a  gospel  with  Mrs.  von  S ;  they 

were  all  greedy  and  wasteful,  and  all  cooks  and  housemaids 
had  very  hungry  sweethearts.  The  men-servants  loved  their 
masters'  wine  and  cigars,  and  the  grooms  considered  it  as  a 
great  blessing  that  horses  were  born  mute ;  in  a  word,  all  re- 
quired a  very  sharp  look-out  and  great  strictness. 

The  manner  in  which  I  followed  the  housekeeping  rules  of 

Mrs.  von  S had  consequences  which  astonished  me  very 

much,  and  made  me  very  angry  with  my  servants,  who  all  held 

opinions  exactly  opposite  to  those  of  Mrs.  von  S .     When 

the  cook  ran  away  and  other  tokens  of  mutiny  transpired 
amongst  the  rest  of  the  servants,  I  was  very  indignant,  and 
always  believed  I  was  in  the  right ;  but  this  belief  was  some- 
what shaken  when  my  dear  husband  revolted,  and  acted  with 
an  energy  to  which  I  was  by  no  means  used  in  reference  to  me. 
He  said  that  he  became  thin  and  starved  with  my  housekeep- 
ing ;  that  he  was  ashamed  of  my  stinginess  ;  that  he  wanted  a 
proper  household,  becoming  his  station ;  and  that  Mrs.  von 
S with  her  starvation  code  might  go  to  Jericho.  He  en- 
gaged a  perfect  cook  and  made  other  alterations,  which  in- 
creased the  silbergroschens  spent  a  day  to  an  alarming  figure. 

Though  shaking  my  head  I  had  to  submit,  and  we  lived  as 
he  thought  proper.  His  relatives  seemed  to  approve  of  it,  and 
to  be  rather  pleased  with  our  house,  for  our  spare  room  for 
visitors  was  occupied  all  the  year  round  by  some  of  them,  and 
not  rarely  I  had  to  give  up  my  own  bedroom. 

Looking  over  my  diary  of  that  time,  I  am  astonished  to  find 


270  Ten  lears  of  niy  Life. 

that  scarcely  one  day  passed  without  some  entertainment, 
party,  or  pleasure  excursion.  This  was  very  natural.  Officers 
have  much  time  to  spare,  and  are  in  general  a  light-living 
people  and  very  social  amongst  themselves.  The  five  or  six 
ladies  who  formed  the  particular  set  to^  which  I  belonged  saw 
each  other  daily,  and  there  was  always  amongst  them  occasion 
for  some  entertainment,  and  besides  we  gave  regular  parties 
each  in  her  turn.  When  relatives  from  outside  came  to  visit 
one  of  us  they  had  of  course  to  be  entertained,  and  thus  an 
occasion  for  a  smaller  or  larger  party  v/as  never  wanting. 

Speaking  of  strange  visitors  reminds  me  of  an  incident 
occurring  at  that  time,  in  which  I  played  a  part  as  a  match- 
maker, and  very  successfully,  for  the  couple  brought  together 
by  my  means  are  very  hapi)y.     A  few  pages  back  I  mentioned 

that,   while  living  in  Rorschach,  a  young  Miss  von   D , 

from  Kurland,  was  confided  to  my  care  by  her  father.  She 
was  a  very  pretty  girl,  and  her  photograph  was  in  my  album. 

We  had  in  our  regiment  a  Lieut.-Colonel  von  O ,  who 

was  a  bachelor,  and  expected  by  everybody  to  remain  one  to 
the  end  of  his  life,  as  the  hearts  of  all  our  young  ladies  and 
their  mothers  had  been  exercised  on  him  in  vain  ;  he  was  a 
very  agreeable  and  therefore  desirable  man.  One  day,  when 
looking  over  my  album,  he  seemed  to  be  spellbound  by  the 

photograph  of  Miss  von  D ,  inquiring  most  eagerly  who 

that  beautiful  lady  was.  Now  chance  would  have  it  that  I 
had  just  received  a  letter  from  her,  informing  me  that  she  and 
her  father  were  at  Schlangenbad.     Salm  and  myself,  who  liked 

both  Miss  von  D and  the  Lieut.-Colonel,  thought  that  it 

might  lead  to  a  match  if  we  brought  them  together,   so  we 

invited  Baron  D and  his  daughter  to  meet  us  at  Binger- 

briick,  where  we  went,   accompanied  by  Lieut.-Colonel  von 

O ,  of  whom  I  had  written  nothing  to  Miss  von  D . 

The  Lieut.-Colonel  was  still  more  charmed  by  the  life  original 
of  the  photograph  which  had   inflamed  him,  and  Miss   von 

D seemed  also  to  be  pleased  with  him,   though  she  did 

not  suspect  his  serious  intentions. 

The  Lieut.-Colonel  was  deeply  in  love,  and  as  a  proof  of 
that  fact  may  serve  the  circumstance  that  he  had  not  the 
courage  to  '  pop  the  question,^  though  he  was  several  limes 
alone  with  Miss  von  D ,  and  that  she  returned  to  her  Rus- 
sian home  without  the  Colonel  having  unburdened  his  heart. 


Match-making.  271 

I,  of  course,  had  taken  care  to  inform  Miss  von  D of  the 

sickness  of  the  poor  man,  and  though  she  was  at  that  time  not 
in  love  with  him,  she  hked  him  much,  and  I  was  justified  in 
my  belief  that  he  would  not  be  refused. 

To  propose  in  writing  would  not  do,  and  it  was  at  last 
resolved  that  the  Colonel  should  remember  an  invitation  of 
the  Baron's,  made  to  us  all  at  a  dinner,  to  come  and  visit  him 

in  Kurland.     This  Lieut.-Colonel  O really  did,  somewhat 

to  the  embarrassment  of  the  Baron,  who  probably  suspected 
his  intention,  and  did  not  want  to  part  with  his  lovely  daughter, 
for  he  took  the  utmost  care  not  to  leave  him  alone  with  her 
for  a  single  moment.  Thus  the  day  of  departure  approached 
without  the  Colonel  having  had  an  opportunity  of  making  a 
declaration  to  the  lady.  He  was  in  despair,  when  at  last  a 
chance  was  offered.  The  Baron  had  to  leave  the  room  for  a 
few  moments,  and  when  he  returned  the  proposal  of  the 
Colonel  had  been  accepted  by  his  daughter.  He  stormed  and 
fumed,  but  the  young  lady  had  a  will  of  her  own,  and  the 
Colonel  returned  to  Coblentz  a  happy  man. 

When  the  weather  was  fine  we  made  visits  in  the  country, 
either  riding  there  on  horseback  or  going  by  rail  or  steamer. 
An  Irishman,  Mr.  ]\Ioriarty,  had  bought  the  old  Castle  of 
Lahnstein,  a  short  distance  from  Coblentz,  and  restored  it  in  a 
splendid  manner.  He  was  an  agreeable  man  ;  we  became 
acquainted  with  him  and  savv  him  often,  either  in  Coblentz  or 
at  his  castle,  where  he  used  to  receive  us  in  the  most  friendly 
and  hospitable  manner. 

Another   castle   not   far   from    Coblentz   belonged   to   the 

princely  family  of  S W ,   and  was  occupied  by  the 

Princess  Dowager  of  W .     She  had  been  once  a  great  and 

celebrated  beauty,  and  was  still  a  strikingly  handsome,  very  ac- 
complished, and  most  amiable  woman.  Her  castle  was 
splendid,  and  its  church  and  chapels  quite  delighted  me. 
With  all  this  and  all  her  riches  she  was  not  happy,  for  her 
sons  gave  her  a  great  deal  of  trouble.  The  eldest  son  and 
heir  was  such  a  scapegrace  that  he  was  judged  unfit  to  become 

the  head  of  that  branch  of  the  house  of  \V .     He  was 

therefore  induced  to  renounce  his  birthright  in  favour  of  his 
second  brother.  But,  alas  !  this  second  son  turned  out  no 
better,  and  both  these  brothers  shocked  the  whole  high  nobility 
by  marrying  to  Jew  girls — sisters,  daughters  of  a  Berlin  usurer. 


ti72  Ten  Years  of  my  Life. 

Great  exertions  were  made  at  that  time  to  persuade  the 
second  son  to  renounce  the  majorate  and  his  hereditary  seat 
in  the  Prussian  First  Chamber  in  favour  of  his  youngest 
brother,  who  was  then  an  office*  in  a  Prussian  regiment  of 
cavalry,  and  married  to  a  French  princess  related  to  the  Bour- 
bon family.  This  he  refused  to  do,  and  also  to  be  divorced 
from  his  wife.  He  said,  '  I  love  my  wife,  and  as  to  the  ma- 
jorate  and  to  my  seat  in  the  chamber,  no  law  can  deprive  me 
of  my  right ;  I  certainly  shall  maintain  it.'     This  he  did,  and 

on  his  becoming  of  age  his  mother  had  to  leave  Castle  S , 

to  the  great  regret  of  all  the  neighbouring  families,  who  of 
course  sided  with  the  mother,  with  whom  they  had  been  on 
the  most  friendly  footing  for  many  years,  and  who  retired  to  a 
country-seat  she  bought  on  the  Lake  of  Geneva. 

To  atone  in  some  way  at  least  for  our,  not  idle,  but  rather 
gay  and  useless  manner  of  living,  a  number  of  Catholic  ladies 
had  formed  a  sewing  society,  which  met  regularly  on  certain 
days  for  a  few  hours  in  the  Convent  St.  Barbara.  My  poetical 
friend,  who  was  a  most  zealous  Catholic,  belonged  of  course 
to  this  society,  and  I  became  a  member  likewise.  She  also 
induced  me  now  and  then  to  go  with  her  to  some  other  con- 
vent, where  we  did  not  make  clothes  for  the  poor,  as  in  St. 
Barbara,  but  where  we  mended  the  garments  of  the  priests, 
which  required  repairing  very  badly. 

The  Queen  visited  us  not  rarely  in  St.  Barbara's  Convent, 
and  on  seeing  me  there  she  was  very  kind,  and  expressed  her 
approval  at  my  being  occupied  in  this  manner. 

Though  I  liked  pleasure,  gay  company,  and  dancing,  I 
never  felt  more  satisfied  than  I  did  at  home,  quietly  sitting  at 
the  sewing-machine  I  had  bought,  and  which  I  learnt  to  use 
extremely  well ;  or  going  out  for  a  walk  with  one  or  two  of  our 
friends,  and  passing  some  pleasant  hours  in  one  of  the  public 
restaurant  gardens  in  the  New  Promenade  of  the  Queen, 
listening  to  the  music  of  the  band,  or  chatting  amongst  our- 
selves. 

In  England  or  in  America  this  kind  of  enjoyment  is  utterly 
denied  to  ladies  belonging  to  society,  and  all  of  them  would 
shudder  at  the  very  idea  of  sitting  down  in  a  public  garden 
amongst  smoking  and  beer-drinking  people  of  all  classes. 
Whoever  has  travelled  in  Germany  will  find  it,  however, 
everywhere,    and   agree    that   it   is    rather   pleasant,    for   the 


Puhlic  Gardens  in  Germviny.  273 

Germans  behave  at  such  places  always  extremely  well,  and 
nobody  need  be  afraid  of  being  annoyed  or  shocked  by  noisy 
or  indecent  behaviour.  Of  course  I  do  not  speak  of  the 
resorts  of  the  low  classes. 

I  must  say  nowhere  people  understand  how  to  amuse  them- 
selves in  a  more  sensible  manner  than  they  do  in  Germany, 
and  other  nations  might  indeed  learn  from  them.  Foreigners 
visiting  Berlin,  Vienna,  Dresden,  or  any  other  of  the  larger 
German  towns,  are  always  surprised  on  visiting  one  of  those 
public  places,  where  many  thousands  of  persons — men,  women, 
and  children — are  sitting  at  little  tables,  eating  and  drinking, 
and  chatting,  or  listening  to  most  excellent  music.  Every- 
thing goes  on  pleasantly,  and  scarcely  ever  anv  disagreeable 
sound  is  heard  or  any  quarrel  occurs.  Everybody  is  drinking 
wine  or  beer,  but  drunken  people  are  rare,  and  one  may  live 
for  months  in  a  city  without  ever  seeing  in  the  streets  an 
intoxicated  person. 

The  presence  of  the  Queen  in  Coblentz  was  always  hailed 
with  great  pleasure,  for  she  was  much  beloved  by  all  classes, 
and  showed  herself  very  gracious  and  amiable  towards  every- 
body. 

To  be  noticed  by  her  and  to  be  invited  to  her  parties  was 
of  course  the  aim  and  ambition  of  a  great  many  people,  and 
as  she  was  so  very  kind,  her  kindness  was  not  rarely  much 
tried  by  the  importunity  of  persons  who  found  means  of  being 
admitted,  though  they  might  better  have  stayed  away,  as  their 
position  did  not  entitle  them  to  such  an  honour. 

The  Queen  gave  generally  two  great  balls,  to  which  every- 
body was  invited — that  is,  the  people  of  all  classes  ;  and  also 
two  great  cafes-dan sants  in  the  garden,  where  ladies  appeared 
in  bonnets  and  street  toilet,  and  where  dancing  was  going  on 
on  the  gravel. 

She  also  frequently  gave  little  dinners  to  a  more  select  com- 
pany, and  parties  of  a  similiar  kind,  where  the  ladies  appeared 
in  evening  toilet,  though  not  in  low  dresses.  The  same  was 
the  case  at  her  teas,  to  which  were  invited  rarely  more  than 
twenty  or  twenty-five  persons,  and  which  were  of  a  more  inti- 
mate character.  The  Queen  sat  there  often  occupied  with 
some  embrodiery,  or  a  lottery  was  arranged  for  little  trifles, 
bought  or  worked  for  that  purpose.  The  great  amiability  of 
Iiei*  Majesty  made  these  parties  always  very  pleasant. 

o 


ST-i  Ten   Years  of  my  Life. 

As  it  is  almost  impossible  to  mention  all  interesting  things 
and  persons  I  saw  during  my  ^stay  in  Coblentz,  if  continuing 
in  the  manner  in  which  I  commenced,  in  hope  to  save  space 
I  think  it  better  to  follow  my  diary,  and  dwell  on  those  inci- 
dents which  seem  to  deserve  it. 

At  the  end  of  June  my  Catholic  lady  friends  was  greatly  ex- 
cited, for  they  expected  the  arrival  of  the  newly-appointed 
Catholic  Army  Bishop,  Mr.  Namszanowski.  The  church  was 
beautifully  decorated  with  flowers  and  garlands  in  his  honour, 
and  on  June  26  all  the  ladies  of  the  sewing  society  assembled 
in  their  rooms  in  the  church,  where  the  bishop  was  presented 

to  us.     He  called  at  my  house  at  noon,  when  Mrs.  von  G 

and  Mrs.  von  C were  with  me ;  we  all  knelt  down,  kissed 

his  ring,  and  received  his  bles^«ing  ;  but  Salm  would  not  kneel 
down,  though  he  also  kissed  the  ring  of  the  bishop.  He  was, 
however,  frequently  with  him,  and  on  July  i  we  took  supper 
with  him  and  four  other  priests  at  my  enthusiastic  friend's. 

When  the  season  in  Ems  commenced  we  went  frequently 
there.  On  July  10  we  rode  over  to  pay  our  respects  to  the 
Grand  Duchess  of  Mecklenburg,  the  sister  of  our  beloved 
Emperor,  whom  she  resembles  very  much,  especially  in  man- 
ner, her  face  beaming  with  true  kindness.  Jimmy,  who  had 
accompanied  me  on  this  visit,  as  he  had  been  especially  invited 
by  the  Grand  Duchess,  who  is  a  great  loverof  dogs,  established 
himself  at  once  on  the  sofa,  and  she  was  so  pleased  with  my 
impudent  long-legged  friend  that  she  asked  for  a  photograph 
of  him. 

On  the  T5th  Countess  Haake  called,  asking  me  and  my 
husband  to  come  at  four  o'clock  to  see  her,  to  pay  our  respects 
to  Princess  Liegnitz,  who  would  be  there.  As  my  husband 
was  in  Ems  I  went  alone.  Princess  Liegnitz,  the  consort  of 
Frederick  William  IH.,  the  father  of  our  Emperor,  who  is 
much  respected  and  beloved  by  the  whole  Royal  Family,  re- 
ceived me  very  graciously,  and  when  I  went  next  morning  to 
the  station  to  see  her  off  she  was  so  kind  as  to  present  me 
with  one  of   the  many  boquets  she   had  received. 

On  the  same  day  I  went  with  my  husband,  and  the  Here- 
ditary Prince  of  Anholt  and  'Uncle  Plerrmann,'  to  Ransbach, 
shooting  roebucks.  There  I  saw  for  the  first  time  a  roebuck 
in  the  wood,  and  heard  his  voice.  German  hunters  call  his 
cry  '  schmaelen/  which  verbally  translated  means  scolding.    We 


The  Queen  a  Godmother.  275 

remained  until  the  iSthin  Ransbach,  and  though  we  did  not 
kill  a  single  buck  we  passed  a  very  pleasant  time  in  the  wood, 
and  in  quite  a  romantic  shooting-lodge  of  Couut  Herrmann, 
which  reminded  me  of  the  time  of  my  camp  life. 

On  the  2oth  we  went  to  Ems,  paying  our  respects  to  the 
Grand  Duchess  of  Mecklenburg,  and  not  finding  her  at  home 
I  left  the  photographs  which  she  had  requested.  On  the  Pro- 
menade, his  Majesty  the  King  sent  word  that  he  wished  to  see 
me.  He  gave  me  his  hand,  walked  with  me  about  half  an 
hour,  and  was  very  kind  and  gracious.  Both  the  King  and 
the  Queen  interested  themselves  very  much  about  many  things 
of  which  I  imagined  they  had  scarcely  time  to  think.  They 
asked  many  questions  in  reference  to  our  domestic  life,  and 
that  of  other  officers  ;  inquired  even  into  details,  which  all 
seemed  to  interest  them.  When  I,  some  days  later,  sat  at 
dinner  in  Ems,  the  Grand  Duchess  of  Mecklenburg  sent  for 
me,  and  I  went  with  Jimmy  to  nay  her  my  respects. 

Mrs.  von  F had  given   birth   to  her  usual  baby — the 

ninth,  I  believe — a  sturdy  little  boy,  and  her  Majesty  the 
Queen  honoured  him  with  being  his  godmother.  As  the 
Queen  wanted  to  arrange  about  the  christening,  she  quite  un- 
expectedly desired  our  attendance  in  the  afternoon  of  the  27  th. 
Felix  being  out  shooting,  I  had  to  go  with  Mrs.   General  von 

S ,  Countess  Haake,  who  is  rather  strict,  noticed  at  once 

the  absence  of  my  husband,  but  Colonel  von  Stiehle,  the  com- 
mander of  our  regiment,  had  already  excused  him  to  her  Majesty. 

The  christening  took  place   next  day  in  the  house  of  Mr. 

von  F ,  who  was  one  of  the  chamberlains  of  her  Majesty. 

About  fifty  persons  were  present  in  the  dining-room,  where  an 
altar  had  been  arranged.  The  Queen  held  the  heavy  little 
boy,  who  was  called  August,  during  all  the  service,  which 
lasted  nearly  twenty  minutes,  and  only  gave  him  up  at  a  cer- 
tain part  of  the  ceremony,  the  nature  of  which  did  not  permit 
a  Protestant  to  touch  the  child,  for  Mr.  von  F — —  was  a 
Catholic. 

In  the  afternoon  of  next  day  we  went  to  a  concert  given  in  a 
public  garden  in  the  Queen's  Promenade,  the  Swiss  House. 
Both  their  Majesties  .  were  present ;  I  was  sitting  near  the 
Queen,  and  the  King,  friendly  as  usual,  shook  hands  with 
me. 

When  we  next  day  were  sitting  in  St.  Bardara's  Convent, 


£70  Ten   Years  of  my  Life. 

sewing  for  the  poor,  the  Queen  visited  us,  staying  for  half  an 
hour,  and  having  a  kind  word'for  everyone  present. 

When  out  on  the  Promenade  with  my  husband  in  the  even- 
ing, we  had  the  greatest  pleasure  of  meeting  a  dear  old  friend 
from  America,  to  whom  we  owed  much  gratitude,  and  who, 
under  all  circumstances  had  acted  to  us  extremely  kindly. 
Baron  Gerolt  zur  Leyen,  the  former  German  minister  in  Wash- 
ington. I  have  already  spoken  of  him  on  another  occasion, 
and  of  the  great  esteem  which  he  enjoyed  in  America.  Dur- 
ing the  twenty-five  years  he  represented  Prussia  he  did  a  great 
deal  to  faciliate  the  communication  between  Germany  and  the 
United  States,  which  was  thankfully  acknowledged  by  all  mer- 
chants. It  created,  therefore,  great  indignation  in  America 
when  the  cause  became  known  which  induced  him  to  resign 
his  place.  Though  this  happened  only  at  the  end  of  the  late 
Freiich  war,  I  shall  mention  it  here,  as  I  may  not  have  another 
opportunity. 

Mr.  George  Pancroft  was  minister  of  the  United  States  in 
Berlin.  Though  I  was  told  that  he,  as  an  historical  author, 
could  not  be  compared  either  to  Prescot  or  Motley,  his  volu- 
minous work  about  the  United  States  had  won  for  him  a  fair 
well-merited  reputation,  as  historical  authors  are  rather  rare 
in  his  country,  Mr.  Bancroft  had  studied  in  Germany,  anci 
vmderstood  the  language,  though  he  spoke  it  rather  indifferently. 
Whether  he  had  all  the  qualities  required  of  a  diplomatist  I 
cannot  judge,  but  I  know  that  he  was  very  agreeable  to  the 
Prussian  Government,  and  utterly  distasteful  to  all  Americans. 
That  was  very  natural,  for  he  showed  not  only  everywhere  his 
great  admiration  for  Germany,  and  especially  Prussian  insti- 
tutions, but  courted  and  flattered  all  high-titled  persons,  whilst 
he  neglected  the  Americans  who  either  lived  in  Berlin  or  pass- 
ed through,  offending  them  often  rather  grossly.  The  President 
was  frequently  urged  to  recall  him,  but  for  a  long  time  without 
effect,  as  he  was  so  agreeable  to  the  Prussian  Court,  whose 
interest  he  had  more  at  heart  than  that  of  his  country — said 
his  enemies  amongst  the  Americans. 

Mr.  Bancroft  made  himself  very  often  ridiculous  in  company 
by  his  eccentric  behaviour,  his  nonsensical  speeches  in  bad 
Gciman,  Szc,  and  said,  when  he  had  had  a  glass  of  wine,  some- 
times rather  undiplomatic  things.  Once  at  a  dinner,  I  think 
given  by  Mr,  von  der  Heved,  when  aftairs  between  France  and 


f^rr 


Mr.  Bancroft.  ^11 

Germany  predicted  a  near  rupture,  he  said  that  if  a  war  should 
occur  between  the  two  countries  the  United  States  would  cer- 
tainly side  with  Germany. 

Such  words  from  the  lips  of  administer  could  not  fail  to  cre- 
ate some  sensation  ;  the  French  minister  in  Berlin  reported 
them  to  Paris,  and  the  Secretary  of  Foreign  Affairs  of  Napo- 
leon expressed  his  astonishment  to  General  Dix,  then  minis- 
ter in  Paris,  who  was  still  more  astonished.  He  wrote  a  friendly 
letter  to  Mr.  Bancroft,  which  was  answered  rudely.  The  in- 
cautious words  spoken  in  his  cups  by  the  old  man  were  reported 
to  Washington  and  created  a  diplomatic  ebullition.  How 
Baron  Gerolt  was  mixed  up  in  this  affair  I  do  not  know,  and  how 
he  displeased  Mr.  Bancroft  neither,  but  the  latter  had  a  grudge 
against  him,  and  avenged  himself  in  a  manner  speaking  by  no 
means  well  for  the  character  of  that  minister,  and  which  can- 
not be  patched  up  by  all  the  laudatory  articles  in  certain  Ger- 
man papers. 

When  the  war  between  Germany  and  France  broke  out  in 
1870,  Baron  Gerolt  was  very  much  astonished  by  a  letter  from 
Mr.  von  Thile,  who  replaced  Count  Bismarck  during  his  ab- 
sence from  Berlin.  He  was  warfted  to  be  more  cautious  in 
his  expressions  and  behaviour  than  heretofore,  as  Mr.  Ban- 
croft had  complained  of  his  comporting  himself  in  a  manner 
likely  to  produce  bad  feelings  between  Germans  and  Ameri- 
cans. 

As  this  utterly  unfounded  denunciation  had  not  the  desired 
effect,  Mr.  Bancroft  repeated  his  accusation  against  '  his  friend  ' 
the  Baron  in  still  stronger  terms,  adding  that  he  tried  to  in- 
duce American  subjects  to  enlist  in  the  Prussic-yi  army.  Though 
the  latter  part  of  his  denunciation  must  have  appeared  ridicu- 
lous to  Count  Bismarck,  this  minister  had  some  confidence  in 
Mr.  Bancroft's  veracity  and  honour,  and  wrote  to  Baron  Gerolt 
a  rather  sharp  letter,  ending  with  the  threat  that,  if  he  did  not 
me  rid  his  ways,  the  Count  would  be  obliged  to  request  his 
Majesty  to  call  Baron  Gerolt  to  Berlin  to  defend  himself 

This  cruel  letter  mortified  the  old  gentleman  very  much, 
and  caused  him  to  give  in  his  resignation.  The  speech  which 
President  Grant  made  on  his  leave-taking,  in  which  he  flatly 
contradicted  the  base  falsehoods  communicated  by  his  minis- 
ter to  the  Prussian  Premier,  and  also  the  sentiments  which  were 
expressed  in  regard  to  his  doings  at  a  dinner  given  in  his  hon- 


278  Ten   Years  of  my  Life. 

our  by  the  most  eminent  njerchants  of  New  York,  afforded 
him  some  comfort.  ■• 

In  acknowledgment  of  his  merit,  and  as  a  testimony  of  the 
regard  in  which  Baron  Gerolt  ^vas  held  in  the  United  States, 
his  friends  there  presented  him  with  a  splendid  piece  of  plate  of 
solid  parcel-gilt  silver,  which  arrived  in  Berlin  when  the  Baron 
had  just  arrived  there.  The  Empress  desired  to  see  it,  and  at  a 
dinner  given  on  the  birthday  of  the  Russian  Emperor  it  orna- 
mented the  Imperial  dinner-table,  where  it  was  generally 
admired.  On  hearing  that  the  Baron  was  in  Berlin,  the  Em- 
peror and  the  Empress  at  once  sent  a  gentleman  to  his  hotel, 
congratulating  him  on  the  reception  of  such  a  beautiful  and 
well-merited  testimonial.  On  hearing  this  Prince  Bismarck, 
who  was  present  at  that  dinner,  called  the  messenger  back, 
saying,  *  Please  tell  the  Baron  the  same  from  me.' 

Though  the  resignation  of  the  old  minister  had  been  granted 
with  all  honours,  the  title  of  actual  Privy  Councillor,  with  the 
predicate  Excellency  having  been  bestowed  upon  him,  there 
had  still  remained  a  cloud  between  him  and  the  great  Premier, 
and  this  message  therefore  was  highly  gratifying  to  the  worthy 
old  diplomatist. 

On  August  7  we  drove  to  Ems.  On  the  Promenade  I  met 
his  Majesty  the  King,  who  gave  me  his  hand,  and  asked 
whether  we  were  going  to  the  theatre.  I  would  have  liked  to 
go  but  I  could  not,  having  Jimmy  with  me,  and  that  spoilt  fel- 
low would  have  cried  himself  to  death  if  shut  up  in  an  hotel 
room,  or  placed  under  the  charge  of  a  stranger. 

Next  morning  I   got  up  at  live   o'clock,  and  Felix,  myself, 

and  Captain  von  C ,  with  his  wife,  rode  on  horseback  to 

Ems.  When  the  King  saw  our  party  he  came  and  bade  us 
good  morning.  He  was  extremely  gracious  and  kind,  patted 
my  horse,  and  said  he  was  pleased  to  see  me  on  horseback. 

The  kind  notice  which  their  Majesties  took  of  me  caused 
of  course  many  pangs  of  jealously,  even  amongst  my  nearest 

friends.     Mrs.  General  von  S endeavoured  to  persuade 

me  that  the  King  had  been  much  displeased  at  my  appearing 
on  horseback  near  the  Promenade  in  Ems.  She  knew  for 
certain  from  reliable  sources.  I  did  not  believe  it,  for  if  the 
King  had  been  displeased  he  would  not  have  come  to  bid  us 
good  morning,  and  his  noble,  open  face  would  not  have  had 
such  a  kind  expression. 


Duchess  of  Ossuma.  279 

If  I  had  entertained  any  doubts  in  this  respect  they  would 
have  been  removed  next  evening,  when  we  attended  a  great 
ball  given  by  her  Majesty  the  Queen.  The  King  was  as  kind 
as  usual,  and  made  some  jocular  remarks  on  the  too-long  train 
of  my  dress,  which  my  dressmaker  had  sent  immediately  before 
the  ball,  and  which  hindered  me  in  dancing. 

I  was  at  that  ball  introduced  to  the  Duchess  of  Ossuna — 
Eleonore,  born  Princess  Salm-Salm,  and  first  cousin  of  my  hus- 
band. The  Duchess  is  an  extremely  handsome,  most  elegant 
and  amiable  woman,  and  we  soon  became  great  friends. 

On  the  following  morning,  the  nth,  we  were  invited  to  a 
dejeuner  at  Castle  Sayn  by  the  Princess  of  Sayn-Wittgen stein. 
The  Queen  with  one  lady  attendant,  the  King  with  his  aides. 
Prince  Reuss,  his  minister  in  Petersburg,  my  husband  and  I, 
were  the  only  guests. 

On  the  1 2th  my  busband  was  out  on   the  drill-ground  with 

the  whole  regiment,  and   i   visited   with   Mrs.  von  G the 

Convent  of  Moselweiss,  where  were  forty-three  nuns  and  sixty- 
five  pupils.  Very  much  pleased  with  everything  I  saw  there, 
we  went  home,  and  met  on  our  way  her  Majesty  the  Queen, 
who  stopped  and  spoke  to  us.  When  we  had  left,  she  sent 
to  recall  us  to  look  at  the  monkey  of  a  poor  Savoyard,  whose 
good  luck  it  was  to  meet  this  Royal  fairy.  We  had  the  honour 
of  accompanying  her  Majesty  on  her  way  to  the  palace. 

When  I,  on  the  14th,  went  to  Ems  to  pay  some  visits,  I  met 
in  a  coupe  of  the  train  Lord  and  Lady  Palmerston,  who  were 
on  their  way  to  Wiesbaden,  and  we  were  soon  engaged  in  lively 
conversation. 

It  was  now  the  time  of  the  military  manoeuvres,  and  though 
I  had  been  in  two  wars  I  had  never  seen  such  a  military  show, 
for  what  I  saw  in  America  was  not  to  be  compared  to  it.  On 
August  17  I  was  in  Colonge,  when  an  officer  accompanied  me 
to  the  drill-ground  to  see  the  cavalry  manoeuvres.  I  was  quite 
delighted  with  the  beautiful  horses  and  the  wonderful  precision 
with  which  all  movements  were  executed. 

When  the  manoeuvres  were  over,  the  General  commanding 
the  troops  presented  to  me  his  whole  corps  of  officers,  and 
made  a  very  flattering  little  speech,  expressing  his  pleasure  in 
welcoming  me  on  their  exercise-ground. 

On  the  20th  I  attended  the  manoeuvres  of  the  infantry,  com- 
manded by  General  von  S ,  which  were  also  very  fine  ;  and 


280  Ten   Years  of  my  Life. 

on  the  2ist  I  went  to  a  cafe-dansa?tt  given  by  her  Majesty  the 
Queen,  which  lasted  until  pasi  seven,  where  I  danced  a  great 
deal  and  amused  myself  much. 

Thus  I  passed  a  rather  gay  season,  every  day  bringing  with 
it  some  party,  and  a  little  rest  was  desirable.  I  therefore  ac- 
cepted with  pleasure  an  invitation  to  Castle  Anholt,  where  sev- 
eral of  our  male  relatives  were  expected  for  partridge-shooting. 
I  remained  a  fortnight,  and  we  passed  our  time  in  a  quiet  plea- 
sant manner.  ' 

Her  Majesty  returned  to  Coblentz  in  November,  and  we 
were  invited  to  tea  on  the  4th.  I  had  the  honour  of  sitting 
next  to  her  on  her  right-hand  side,  and  she  was  very  kind,  as 
usual,  to  my  husband  and  myself.  The  Queen  showed  us  the 
splendid  album  of  the  Rhine  with  which  she  had  been  pre- 
sented. 

On  November  8  I  went  with  Felix  to  Neuwied,  to  pay 
our  respects,  and  to  congratulate  Princess  Elizabeth  on  her 
engagement  with  Prince  Charles  of  Roumania.  The  heredi- 
tary Prince  showed  us  some  of  the  rooms  which  were  arranged 
and  decorated  for  the  wedding,  which  was  to  take  place  on 
the  iSth. 

On  the  loth  we  attended  a  very  large  party  given  by  her 
Majesty,  where  we  heard  some  Swedish  singers  engaged  for 
that  occasion.  I  was  presented  to  the  Grand  Duchess  of 
Baden  and  Princess  William  of  Baden,  whose  lady  of  honour. 
Baroness  Beust,  called  on  me  next  day. 

On  the  13th  the  Queen  gave  a  ball,  where  I  amused  myself 
very  much,  for  her  Majesty  was  so  extremely  kind  and  amiable. 
I  danced  with  the  Grand  Duke  of  Weimar  in  the  same  set 
with  the  Grand  Duchess  of  Baden  and  the  Princess  William. 

On  the  17th  we  were  invited  to  a  breakfast  at  her  Majesty's. 
It  was  only  a  small  party,  consisting  of  the  Prince  and  Princess 
of  Plohenzollern,  Prince  and  Princess  of  Wied,  Count  and 
Countess  of  Flanders,  the  newly-married  couple,  the  Prince 
and  Princess  of  Roumania,  with  their  Roumanian  cortege,  and 

Princess  von  Solms-Braunfels.     Except  Countess  von  P . 

who  had  to  attend  her  Majesty,  no  ladies  of  Coblentz  were 
present. 

In  the  afternoon  we  drove  to  Neuweid,  where  we  arrived  at 
five  o'clock,  just  in  time  for  the  dinner,  which  was  a  grand, 
ceremonious  affair,  where  all    the  rules  of  etiquette  and  rank 


The  Count  of  Flanders.  281 

were  strictly  observed.  The  Prince  of  Roumania  had  brought 
with  him  all  his  ministers  and  a  number  of  ladies  and  attend- 
ants, who  reminded  me  much  of  the  Mexicans,  at  least  in  out- 
ward appearance.  Most  of  these  Roumanian  nobles  I  should 
not  have  liked  to  meet  in  a  lonely  road. 

After  dinner  was  a  concert,  followed  by  fireworks,  and  it 
w^as  not  before  two  o'clock  next  morning  that  we  arrived  in 
Coblentz.  We  did  not,  however,  fail  to  be  at  the  railroad 
station  to  say  good-bye  to  the  Princess  of  Roumania,  who  left 
for  her  new  home,  and  to  give  her  the  boqiid  (f  usage. 

At  the  dinner  in  Neuwied  I  was  presented  to  the  Count  of 
Flanders,  the  brother  of  the  poor  Empress  Carlotta  of  Mexico, 
and  married  to  a  daughter  of  the  Prince  of  Hohenzollern. 
The  Count  is  a  tall,  agreeable  man,  with  whom  I  had  a  long 
conversation,  which  was  somewhat  difucult  on  account  of  his 
bad  hearing.  He  asked  much  about  Mexico,  and  said  many 
flattering  things  to  me.  Speaking  of  the  illness  of  his  sister, 
he  said  that  there  was  no  hope  whatever  of  her  recovery. 

The  next  day  being  our  sewing  day  at  St.  Barbara's,  the 
Queen  came  to  say  adieu  to  the  ladies,  as  she  was  soon  going 
to  Berlin.  Salm  and  I  saw  her,  however,  on  the  22nd,  when 
her  Majesty  had  invited  about  twenty-five  persons  for  tea. 
The  Queen  arranged  a  little  lottery  with  cards  for  the  comj)aTiy. 
Salm  won  a  bust  of  our  dear  King,  and  I  a  match-box.  Next 
evening  we  went  to  the  inauguration  of  the  theatre  ;  the  Queea 
and  her  whole  court  were  present  to  see  '  Fideho,'  which  was 
very  badly  given. 

The  time  until  Christmas  was  a  continuous  string  of  parties. 
I,  of  course,  had  also  to  give  some  cofiees  and  teas,  and  be- 
sides to  entertain  our  circle  when  it  was  my  turn.  I  longed 
indeed  for  some  rest,  and  was  glad  when  we  went,  on  Decem- 
ber 25 — both  Felix's  and  my  birthday — to  Castle  Anholt, 
where  we  found  only  the  family.  The  26th  was  the  birthday 
of  Prince  Alfred,  Felix's  brother,  which  was  celebrated  in  a 
quiet,  pleasant  manner,  only  amongst  ourselves. 

On  the  29th  was  to  take  place  a  shooting-party,  a  battue,  and 
several  other  members  of  the  family  arrived — the  Duchess  of 
Ossuna,  the  Duke  of  Croy,  the  Princes  George  and  Philip, 
and  Princess  Stephanie  Croy.  The  Duchess  of  Ossuna  and 
myself  went  in  a  pony-carriage  to  see  the  battue.  I  took  a 
little  gun  with  me  and  fired  at  a  hare,   but  did  not  harm  i^ 


1282  Ten   Years  of  my  Life. 

though  I  killed  one  next  day,  when  the  batiue  was  continued. 
1  remained  until  one  o'clock"  p.m.  on  the  grounds,  when  the 
ladies  came  to  look  at  the  battue.  As  it  was  very  cold  and 
the  snow  very  deep,  I  returned  with  them  to  the  Castle. 

Next  day,  being  the  last  in  the  year,  we  went  skating  in  the 
morning,  and  remained  together  in  the  evening  until  New 
Year.  I  went  to  my  bed  very  sad  and  with  a  very  heavy 
heart,  for  I  could  not  anticipate  anything  good  for  the  New 
Year. 

It  is  true  Salm's  wishes  had  been  gratified  ;  he  was  in  a  posi- 
tion in  the  army  of  which  he  was  proud  ;  we  had  a  little  home  ; 
society  treated  us  as  well  as  could  be,  and  their  Majesties  and 
the  whole  Royal  Family  received  us  in  a  manner  which  affected 
me  very  much  and  raised  the  envy  of  many.  In  other  respects 
we  were  not  to  be  envied,  however,  for  our  position  and  our 
means  to  maintain  the  same  were  out  of  all  proportion. 

Though  I  am  not  of  an  envious  character,  I  could  not  re- 
press some  bitter  feelings,  looking  on  the  difference  between 
us  and  other  members  of  our  family.  I  was  not  indifferent  to 
the  social  advantages  derived  from  the  high  title  we  bore,  but 
I  could  not  be  blind  either  to  its  disadvantages,  circumstanced 
as  we  were,  and  which  made  it  almost  a  derision.  My  sense 
of  justice  revolted  against  the  law  which  treated  two  brothers 
so  differently.  Whilst  one  lived  in  a  magnificent  castle,  sur- 
rounded by  some  square  miles  of  broad  acres  belonging  to  him, 
and  yielding  him  a  large  rent-roll,  the  other  had  scarcely  so 
much  a  month  as  cost  sometimes  one  dinner  at  his  brother's 
castle.  This  brother  was  indeed  a  good  and  kind  brother,  but 
still  it  was  hard  to  depend  on  his  good  will,  and,  moreover,  he 
had  a  large  family. 

This  feeling  of  injustice  was  atill  increased  in  comparing  the 
merit  of  my  husband  with  that  of  other  members  of  his  family. 
A  long  time  ago  their  ancestors  had  been  men  of  fame ;  but 
since  two  centuries  there  was  scarcely  one  amongst  them  who 
had  done  anything  worth  the  notice  of  the  world,  whilst  my 
husband  at  least  had  won  fame  for  himself. 

He  was  a  Prince,  like  his  brother,  and  it  was  expected  of 
him  that  he  should  live  according  to  his  title,  whilst  tThe  san^e 
laws  which  gave  it  him  deprived  him  of  the  means  to  sustain 
it.  In  this  respect  the  English  custom  seemed  to  me  far  more 
reasonable.     There  only  the  head  of  the  family  has  the  title 


Living  Beyond  our  Means.  2<S3 

and  the  duty  to  represent  it  in  society,  nobody  expecting  of 
younger  brothers  more  than  is  expected  of  other  gentlemen. 

We  might  have  lived  happy  and  not  surpassing  our  income, 
if  Salm  could  have  lived  like  other  majors ;  but  Felix  was  a 
Prince,  and  even  if  he  had  wished  to  economise,  for  which, 
however  he  had  little  talent,  in  consequence  of  his  education, 
he  could  not  live  so  quietly  and  retiredly  as  prudence  would 
have  advised,  for  propriety  required  of  him  more  than  from 
other  officers  of  his  grade.  Though  I  saw  all  the  evil  conse- 
quences ot  such  a  course  I  had  to  submit,  and  being  obliged 
to  fulfil  the  social  duties  expected  from  a  Princess,  and  being 
also  by  no  means  free  from  the  inclinations  of  other  women,  I 
did  as  I  was  told  was  proper — and  tried  not  to  think  of  the 
end.  In  this  I  succeeded  tolerably  well  up  to  the  end  of  th^ 
year,  but  knowing  that  its  first  days  would  bring  an  immense 
number  of  little  bJls,  I  greeted  the  first  of  January  with  a  very 
heavy  heart. 


2S4« 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

New  Year — The  *  little  bills  ' — In  a  whirlpool — Our  new  Colonel,  Count 
Waldersee — In  Berlin — An  evening  party  at  her  Majesty's — The 
brother  of  Maximilian — Audience  with  their  Royal  Highnesses  the 
Crown  Prince  and  Crown  Princess — Their  great  kindness — Grand 
Court-day — I  conquer  China — Baroness  Schleinitz — Grand  Ope^a 
Ball — The   whole    Court    present — Carnival    in    Coblentz — Balls — 

Fancy  Ball  at  Mr.   von  C 's — A  Spanish  Quadrille — Fancy  Ball 

at  General  von  Ilerwarth's — A  fishy  Quadrille — Mayence — Prince  of 
Holstein — Bonn — Professor  Dr.  Busch — 1st  of  April — Studying  in  the 
Hospitals — Salm  promoted — Sad  forebodings — Return  of  the  Queen 
to  Coblentz — Season  in  Ems — The  Duke  of  Ossuna— His  Majesty  the 
Emperor  of  Russia — Princess  Rose  Sahn-Salm — An  unpleasant  occur- 
rence—  At  Prince  Sohns-Braunfels — Thirteen  at  the  table  ! — Our  set 
in  Ems- — With  his  Majesty — The  Duchess  of  Ossuna  and  her  train — 
Prince  Albrecht  of  Prussia — Brilliant  misery — Again  in  Bonn- — -Ru- 
mours in  Ems — Supper  with  the  King — A  Review  in  Ems — Dinner 
at  her  Majesty's  in  Coblentz — A  cafe-dansanl — Caught  in  a  shower — 
Arrival  in  Ems — The  King  and  Benedetti — Sensation — Supper  with 
his  Majesty — How  the  King  looked— I  tell  his  Majesty  that  I  shall  go 
with  the  army — Concert  at  the  Swiss  house  in  Coblentz — How  the 
King  and  Queen  were  received — War  declared — Taking  leave  of  his 
Majesty — Attecting  scene — The  King  gives  me  his  photograph — ■ 
Panic  in  Ems — Return  to  Coblentz — The  behaviour  of  the  Germans 
— Leave-taking  of  the  Queen — Approval  of  my  resolution — In 
Bonn — I  receive  a  certificate  from  Proiessor  Dr.  Busch — In  the  Aula 
— Professor  Dr.  Busch  appointed  Surgeon-General  of  8th  Army  Corps 
— I  am  to  accompany  him — Arrival  of  Colonel  Corvin— Of  Mrs.  von 
Covvin — Of  Princess  Minna  and  Florentine  Salm — Preparations — 
Dark  forebodings — A  conversation  between  Salm  and  Corvin — The 
regiment  '  Queen  Augusta'  leaving — Farewell  to  Salm — A  sad  mother 
and  sad  wife. 

On  my  return  to  Coblentz  I  did  find  the  '  little  bills.'  They 
arrived  in  shoals,  but  necessity  compelled  me  to  go  on  in  the 
usual  way.  The  season  was  not  over  yet,  and  teas,  suppers, 
and  balls  had  to  be  attended.     I  tried  to  forget  my  troubles — 


The  French  Camp  at  Chalons.  285 

not  to  think  of  the  future,  and  to  enjoy  the  present.  At  a 
great  ball  given  by  General  Herwarth  von  Bittenfeld  I  danced 
every  set,  and  amused  myself  in  spite  of  all  gloomy  prospects. 

When,  on  the  i6th  of  January,  it  was  my  turn  to  give  a 
party  to  the  circle,  I  had  the  pleasure  of  receiving  our  new 
Colonel,  Count  Waldersee,  Colonel  von  Stiehle  having  been 
called  to  Berlin  on  some  other  duty.  I  was  much  pleased 
with  our  new  Colonel,  for  he  was  not  only  a  very  agreeable 
man,  but  also  a  very  distinguished  officer.  He  had  been  sent 
the  year  before  to  the  French  camp  at  Chalons,  where  many 
foreign  officers  were  invited  to  admire  the  high  excellence  of 
the  grand  French  army.  The  eftect  produced  on  Count  Wal- 
dersee was  by  no  means  a  grand  one.  He  was  utterly 
astonished  at  the  state  of  that  army,  and  especially  of  their 
tactics;  saying  that  they  were  still  nearly  a  century  behind, 
predicting  for  them  a  very  great  defeat  if  they  should  dare  to 
provoke  a  war  with  Prussia.  He  had  expressed  these  views  in 
his  report  sent  in  to  the  War  Department. 

The  '  little  bills '  caused  me  to  make  a  business  journey  to 
Berlin,  and   Felix  accompanied  me.     We  travelled    together 

with    Lieutenant-Colonel  von   G and  his  wife,   my  dear 

poetical  friend.  Her  husband  had  bought  an  estate  with  a 
little  chateau  somewhere  in  Silesia,  and  with  a  tooth-breaking 
name,  and  given  in  his  resignation.  On  my  suggestion,  the 
ladies  of  the  regiment  had  given  her  a  keepsake,  which  was, 
however,  I  am  sorry  to  say,  a  most  ugly,  paltry  writing-port- 
folio, which  she  scarcely  would  think  worth  a  place  on  her 
writing  table.  I  regretted  her  leaving  much,  for  I  lost  in  her 
a  very  dear  good  friend. 

In    Berlin  we  met   Baron   von    D from  Kurland,  his 

pretty  daughter,   and  Lieutenant-Colonel  von  O ,  whose 

marriage  we  attended  on  the  20th  of  January.  Before  we 
v.'ent  to  the  dinner  in  the  Hotel  de  Rome,  Countess  Haake 
called,  informing  us  that  the  Queen  w^anted  to  see  Lieutenant- 
Colonel  von  G and  us  next  day. 

The  father  of  the  fair  bride  led  me  to  dinner  which  was 
splendid. 

Next  day  we  drove  to  the  palace,  and  were  received  at  one 
o'clock  by  Countess  Haake.  A  little  while  afterwards  came 
the  Queen,  who  gave  us  her  hand,  and  was  as  gracious  as  she 
always  was. 


286     _  Ten   Tears  of  my  Life. 

I  had,  of  course,  to  make  many  calls,  and  go  to  many  places. 
On  the  24th  we  went  to  the  Opera  to  see  the  ballet  '  Fantasca,' 
which  was  beautiful.  The  Queen  was  present,  and  with  her 
in  her  box  was  Archduke  Leopold,  the  brother  of  the  Emper- 
ors of  Austria  and  Mexico.  The  family  likeness  of  this  brother 
brought  back  to  me  sad  reminiscences  of  Mexico,  and  I  felt 
very  much  oppressed  by  the  thought  that  I  should  have  to 
meet  him  next  day  at  a  party  given  in  his  honour  by  her 
Majesty. 

The  King,  Queen,  Crown  Prince,  and  Crown  Princess,  and 
about  one  hundred  and  twenty  persons  were  present.  The 
manner  in  which  I  was  received  by  all  the  members  of  the 
the  Royal  Family  was  even  kinder  than  usual,  and  must  have 
been  noticed  by  the  Archduke,  for  when  we  on  his  desire  had 
been  presented  to  him,  he  acknowledged  our  services  rendered 
to  his  brother  in  Mexico  in  such  ostentatious  language,  that  I, 
though  of  course  much  flattered,  still  felt  somewhat  annoyed, 
and  the  more  so  as  many  things  the  Archduke  said  about 
Mexico  grated  on  my  feelings,  being  made  unusually  sensitive 
by  the  family  likeness  of  the  Prince  to  his  brother.  I  was 
glad  when  that  conversation  was  over. 

Next  day  I  received  a  note  from  the  Crown  Princess,  who 
wanted  to  see  me  at  seven  o'clock  p.ri.,  and  accordingly  I 
drove  to  the  palace.  When  I  had  entered  the  room  the  attend- 
ing lady  of  honour  and  chamberlains  Avere  dismissed,  and  I 
remained  alone  with  their  Royal  Highnesses,  who  were  so 
extremely  kind  to  me  that  I  felt  quite  affected.  I  remained 
about  half  an  hour.  ^Vhen  taking  my  leave  the  Crown  Prin- 
cess kissed  me  and  I  kissed  her  hand.  The  Crown  Prince 
accompanied  me  to  the  foot  of  tlie  stairs,  and  kissed  my  hand 
before  all  the  servants,  an  honour  which  was  as  much  em- 
barrasing  to  me  as  it  was  gratifying. 

On  the  27th,  in  the  afternoon,  I  was  in  bed  before  making 
a  toilet  for  the  great  reception  at  Court  in  the  evening,  when 
by  the  negligence  of  the  waiter  in  the  hotel,  and  the  stupidity 
of  my  maid.  Baroness  Schleinitz  was  brought  to  my  bedside. 
I  felt  much  annoyed,  but  the  fine  tact  and  amiability  of  her 
Excellency  helped  me  to  get  over  my  embarrassment,  and  I 
accepted  with  pleasure  her  invitation  for  supper  after  the 
grand  Court  ceremony. 

It  was  the  first  time  I  attended  such  a  great  field  day  at 


A  Fidel  Lay  cd  Court  2S7 

Court,  and  it  was  only  natural  that  I  was  agreeably  excite(f 
and  curious.  I  made  of  course  a  very  careful  toilet,  and  wort 
a  yellow  silk  dress  with  a  six-feet  long  train,  which  is  worr 
hanging  over  the  left  arm.  The  ceremony  took  place  in  tht 
White  Hall  in  the  old  palace,  where  are  all  the  Royal  state 
rooms.  When  all  the  many  richly  and  elegantly  dressec 
guests  were  marshalled  in  a  hall  adjoining  the  White  Hall 
according  to  their  rank,  their  Majesties  appeared  in  full  Roya" 
state.  Our  gracious  Queen  looked  most  beautiful,  and  ever) 
inch  a  Queen.  Two  young  noblemen,  in  splendid  uniform, 
carried  her  long  gorgeous  train  when  she  passed  before  hei 
guests,  saying  some  friendly  words  here  and  there. 

In  the  White  Hall,  where  a  concert  took  place,  I  at  last  had 
my  wish  to  see  King  and  Queen  sitting  on  a  kind  of  throne, 
raised  some  steps  above  the  floor.  To  the  right  and  left  o1 
their  Majesties  were  sitting  on  fauteuils  the  other  members  o) 
the  Royal  Family,  whilst  the  guests  were  seated  in  rows  before 
them.  In  the  first  row  were  sitting  the  foreign  ambassador? 
and  ministers,  and  behind  them  the  Princes  and  Princesses. 
I  was  sitting  in  the  third  row,  right  opposite  their  Majesties, 
at  the  side  of  Princess  Putbus,  and  behind  me  were  the  mem- 
bers of  the  Chinese  embassy,  just  then  present  in  Berlin  giving 
the  whole  assembly  a  particularly  interesting  character. 

The  concert  was  very  fine,  and  Madame  Lucca  sang  admir- 
ably. In  the  pauses  refreshments  were  presented,  with  which 
my  Oriental  neighbours  seemed  much  pleased.  My  humble 
person  attracted  their  attention,  perhaps  on  account  of  my 
yellow  dress,  as  yellow  is  the  Imperial  colour  of  the  Chinese, 
and  they  showed  me  their  respect  by  attempting  to  feed  me 
with  ice  cream,  and  with  their  own  spoon.  This  ludicrous 
calamity  was  noticed  by  his  Majesty  and  amused  him  much, 
♦  and  on  going  through  the  ranks  he  came  twice  to  my  seat, 
saying  a  few  friendly  words. 

When  the  highly  interesting  ceremony  was  over  I  drove  to 
the  house  of  Baron  von  Schleinitz,  the  minister  of  the  Royal 
household,  and  found  there  several  members  of  the  diplomatic 
corps.  The  ladies  put  their  trains  aside,  and  we  had  a  splen- 
did supper  enlivened  by  a  bright  conversation,  in  which  the 
incidents  of  the  evening  were  discussed.  After  supper  we  en- 
joyed our  cigarettes,  and  returned  home  at  two  o'clock  a.  m., 
much  delighted  v.ith  all  we  had  seen  and  heard. 


288  Ten  Years  of  my  Life. 

On  January  28  took  place  one  of  the  great  Subscription 
Balls  in  the  Royal  Opera  H€use,  and  as  I  had  never  had  an 
opportunity  of  attending  one  we  would  not  miss  it. 

These  balls  had  been  introduced  many  years  ago  under  the 
patronage  of  the  Court,  and  every  season  two,  or  even  three, 
of  them  took  place.  These  balls  were  very  popular,  for  they 
afforded  the  public  an  opportunity  of  seeing  the  whole  Royal 
Family,  who  never  failed  to  attend  them,  for  the  King  of 
Prussia  and  his  Princess  liked  to  mix  with  the  people,  by  whom 
they  are  much  beloved.  These  balls  are  public — that  is,  on 
applying  to  the  intendant  of  the  Royal  Theatres  for  tickets, 
these  are  sent  to  as  many  persons  as  may  move  in  the  house 
without  too  great  inconvenience.  No  respectable  person  is 
excluded,  and  the  tickets  are  to  be  paid  for,  each  costing,  I 
believe,  five  thalers. 

1  must  say  I  was  not  prepared  for  the  splendid  scene  which 
dazzled  my  eyes  on  entering.  The  Opera  House  was  beauti- 
fully decorated  for  that  purpose.  The  floor  of  the  pit  was 
raised  to  a  level  with  the  stage,  the  whole  forming  one  immense 
hall,  lighted  up  in  the  most  brilliant  manner,  and  very  tastefully 
decorated  as  a  ball-room.  From  the  large  Court  box  a  broad 
staircase  led  to  the  hall,  and  all  the  boxes  up  to  the  highest 
tier  and  the  hall  itself  were  filled  with  above  two  thousand 
ladies  and  gentlemen,  all  in  their  best  toilets.  The  many 
dift'erent  brilliant  uniforms,  with  their  glittering  decorations, 
moving  everywhere  amongst  the  black  dress-coats,  made  the 
whole  elegant  crowd  less  monotonous  than  is  the  case,  for  in- 
stance, in  America,  where  the  black  coat  alone  is  to  be  seen. 

The  King  and  Queen,  followed  by  all  the  members  of  the 
Ro3^al  Family,  always  open  the  ball  by  leading  the  polonaise, 
after  v»'hich  they  return  to  the  Royal  private  boxes  ;  but  twice 
more  they  walk  once  up  and  down  the  hall,  speaking  on  their 
way  to  many  persons  they  know.  As  the  crowd  is  great,  and 
everybody  desirous  of  seeing  the  Royal  procession  as  near  as 
possible,  the  intendant  of  the  Royal  Theatre  goes  ahead, 
followed  by  Count  Puckler  leading  the  Palast  Dame  of  the 
Queen.  They  are  followed  by  the  King  and  the  other  Princes 
of  the  family,  each  leading  a  Princess  or  one  of  the  ladies  of 
the  Court. 

Dancing  was  rather  difficult  on  account  of  the  crowd,-  and 
there  can  scarceljf  be  more  dresses  torn  and  spoilt  at  a  draw- 


Subscription  Bills.  289 

ing-room  in   England  than  at  a  Subscription   Ball  in  Berlin 
Supper  and  refreshment  halls  vvere  arranged,  and  stalls  with 
ice-creams  and  cooling  drinks  to  be  iound  in  the  passages. 

I  was  sitting  in  a  box  together  with  Mrs.  General  von 
Witzleben,  looking  with  much  interest  upon  this  highly  amus- 
ing and  lively  scene.  Her  Majesty,  knowing  that  the  leave  of 
absence  of  my  husband  was  expired,  and  that  he  had  to  re- 
turn to  Coblentz,  sent  for  us  to  say  adieu.  When  we  left  the 
box  of  the  Queen  we  met  Prince  Charles,  the  brother  of  the 
King,  who  stopped  and  spoke  to  us ;  and  afterwards  the 
Crown  Prince  came,  shook  hands  with  us,  and  charmed  us  by 
his  amiability.  We  had  received  from  him  an  invitation  for  a 
ball  on  the  31st,  but  as  my  husband  had  to  leave  we  had  to 
decline,  with  great  regret. 

We  left  soon  after  the  Queen,  at  about  half-past  eleven,  and 
\vent  to  supper  at  Countess  Benckendortt's,  meeting  there  some 
diplomatists,  who  are  always  amusing  compmy.  It  was  again 
two  o'clock  A.M.  before  we  reached  home. 

We  left  next  day  at  seven  o'clock  p.m.  for  Coblentz,  where 
we  resumed  our  usual  life.     On  February  4  I  went  to  a  ball 

given  by  General   von  S at  the   military  casino,  ending 

only  at  two  o'clock  in  the  morning  ;  and  the  same  evening  I 

attended  to  our  circle,  where  Mrs.  von   C invited  us  to  a 

fancy  dress  ball,  and  next  morning  we  went  to  Cologne  to  look 
about  for  our  costumes.  The  landlord  of  the  Hotel  Disch 
gave  us  all  desired  information,  and  sent  for  a  Miss  Maria 
Merjack,  who  assisted  us,  and  whom  we  engaged  to  come  to 
Coblentz  to  teach   us  different  Spanish  dances  ;  for  Mrs.  von 

C and  myself  had  decided  on  appearing  in  a  Spanish 

quadrille. 

On  the  9th  again  was  a  great  ball  given  by  General  Her- 
warth  von  Bittenfeld,  when  I  danced  every  set,  with  old  and 
young  gentlemen. 

Another  fancy  ball  at  General  Von  Herwarth's  was  decided 
on  for  February  23,  and  as  I  could  not  possibly  exclude  myself 
from  taking  part  in  it,  I-  joined  a  sailor  or  fisherman  quadrille 
in  the  costume  of  the  people  of  Alsen,  in  compliment  to  the 
General  (who  won  a  victory  there  in  the  Danish  war) ;  and,  in 
an  evil  hour,  we  ordered  our  costumes  to  be  made  by  Mr. 
Kemp,  in  Bonn,  recommended  I  do  not  know'by  whom. 

We  had  now  a  busy  time  with  preDarino;  for  the  two  fancy 

R 


290  Ten  Years  of  oiiy  Life. 

balls,  and  practising  Spanish  dances  and  the  hornpipe ;  but, 
besides  this,  we  had  to  attend  to  other  social  duties  outside  of 
Coblentz.  Having  received  an  invitation  from  the  Governor 
of  Mayence,  the  Prince  of  Holstein,  we  went  there  on  the  15th, 
and  stayed  at  the  house  of  Major  Von  Bloch,  an  old  friend  of 
Felix's.  The  ball  was  splendid  ;  I  danced  every  set  and  many 
extra  tours. 

The  Prince  of  Holstein  was  much  liked,  though  he  was  very 
strict.  When  we  drove  next  day  to  the  station,  and  he  accom- 
panied me,  he  saw  in  the  street  a  soldier  who  was  the  worse 
for  liquor.  The  Prince  called  out  at  once  a  thundering  '  Halt ! ' 
and  had  him  arrested,  threatening  him  with  all  kinds  of  pun- 
ishment. Taking  pity  on  the  poor  fellow,  I  said  to  the  angry 
General,  in  my  bad  German,  '  Durchlaucht,  sei  Du  ein  gutes 
Mensch,  und  lass  das  arm  Kerl  laufen  ! '  which  amused  him  so 
much  that  he  laughed,  and  in  this  good  humour  the  man  got 
off  with  a  reprimand. 

On  the  19th  the  fancy  ball  at  Mrs.  von  C 's  took  place. 

The  costumes  in  general  were  not  nice  at  all,  and  our  Spanish 
quadrille  went  off  very  indifferently.     I  danced  with  Mr.  von 

C ,  who  danced  the  fandango  more  like  a  polish  bear  than 

a  Spaniard,  and  seemed  to  have  a  particular  spite  against  my 
toes. 

We  had  laid  down  a  rule  amongst  ourselves  in  reference  to 
the  balls  and  evening  parties  given  by  us  ;  which  was  very 
sensible,  as  many  amongst  us  were  not  rich.  According  to  this 
regulation,  not  more  than  two  dishes  of  meat  were  to  be  given, 

and  only  red  and  white  table  wine.     Mr.  Von  C ,  however, 

who  was  a  wealthy  man,  asserted  that  a  fancy  ball  was  an  ex- 
ceptional case,  and  gave  a  sumptuous  supper  and  an  immense 
quantity  of    champagne,  which   caused   some  remarks   from 

General  Herwarth.     These  remarks  anno}ed  Mr.  von  C 

so  much,  that  he  in  his  vexation  got  very  drunk  and  went  off 
to  his  bed,  by  which  I  had  the  advantage  of  getting  rid  of  him 
as  a  partner  for  the  cotillion,  which  1  danced  then  with  our 
new  Colonel,  Count  Waldersee,  who  was  a  far  superior  dancer 
and  man. 

The  fancy  ball  at  General  Herwarth's  took  place  on  the 
23rd.  We  were  all  in  a  great  flutter,  for  our  sailor  dresses  from 
Bonn  did  not  arrive  until  very  late  in  the  afternoon.  The 
ball  was  very  crowded,  and  dancing  was  rather  difficult.     Be- 


Professor  Busch.  291 

fore  it  began  Count  Waldersee  approached  the  old  hero,  Gen- 
eral von  Hewarth,  addressed  him  in  nice  appropriate  verses, 
and  deUvered  to  him  a  laurel  "crown  with  black  and  white 
streamers.  I  amused  myself  very  much,  though  our  sailor  cos- 
tumes were  horrid ;  we  looked  all  like  fishwomen,  and  shud- 
dered at  our  own  ugliness.  We  danced,  however,  our  hornpipe 
tolerably  well,  had  a  good  and  pleasant  supper,  Count  Walder- 
see leading  me  to  it,  and  we  did  not  go  home  till  morning — 
at  three  o'clock. 

How  I  longed  for  the  end  of  all  these  bills,  and,  thank 
Heaven,  it  came  soon,  for  the  one  I  gave  on  February  28  was 
the  last  of  tlie  season.  We  had  eighty-six  guests,  and  the  ball 
went  of  to  the  satisfaction  of  everybody.  I  danced  every  set, 
with  young  and  old,  and  made  myself  as  amiable  as  I  could. 
When  all  was  over,  after  two  o'clock,  and  I  was  at  last  in  my 
bed,  I  was  most  happy  that  everything  had  passed  off  so  well. 

It  had  been  decided  on  between  me  and  my  husband  that 
after  the  balls,  &c.,  of  the.  season  were  over  1  should  go  to 
Bonn,  to  consult  one  of  the  celebrated  ladies'  physicians  there, 
and  stay  for  so  long  in  that  city  as  it  should  be  thought  neces- 
sary by  him.  I  therefore  went  to  Bonn  on  March  18,  and 
consulted  Professor  Busch,  who  had  been  strongly  recom- 
mended to  me  by  the  brother  of  my  husband. 

Professor  Busch  is  one  of  the  most  renowned  physicians  in 
Germany,  and  is  almost  one  of  the  kindest  and  best  men  I 
have'  ever  known.  As  he  thought  it  necessary  for  me  to  re- 
main under  his  treatment  for  a  time,  I  invited  a  cousin  of  my 
husband's.  Countess  Constantine  Salm-Hoegssrseten,  to  come 
and  stay  with  me,  and  afterwards  to  accompany  me  to  Cob- 
lentz. 

As  my  state  of  health  did  not  require  me  to  stay  at  home, 
I  went  now  and  then  to  Coblentz,  or  paid  visits  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood, and  became  also  acquainted  with  the  wife  'of  Pro- 
fessor Busch,  who  has  a  whole  nestful  of  pretty  children  and  a 
grown-up  daughter,  in  whose  company  I  spent  very  pleasant 
hours. 

On  April  i,  I  was  taken  in  several  times.  Amongst  other 
things  I  received,  per  rail,  a  large  box,  in  which,  carefully 
packed  in  hay,  I  found  a  brandy  botde  containing  some  fine 
French  liquor,  on  the  label  of  which  was  written,  '  To  take  in  the, 
mornings,  at  noon,  and  m  the  evenings,  one  glassfuU.     Cob- 


2D '2  Ten   Years  of  my  Life. 

* 

lentiz,  April  i,  Salm,  M.D.'  The  label  itself,  made  by  some 
artist,  represented  a  lancsca|De,  with  Bonn  in  the  background  ; 
a  very  prominent  stork,  in  the  foreground,  in  a  swamp,  held  in 
his  bill — not,  as  readers  might  expect,  a  baby — but  a  very  big 
disappointing  frog. 

VvHiilst  I  was  in  Bonn  I  had  an  opportunity  of  satisfying  a 
desire  I  had  already  formed  in  Coblentz,  on  hearing  that  her 
Majesty  would  be  pleased  if  the  ladies  of  her  regiment  occu- 
pied themselves  with  nursing  the  sick  in  the  military  hospitals. 

Seeing  the  kindness  and  skill  with  which  Professor  IBusch 
and  his  assistants,  Dr.  von  Kiihlewetter  and  Dr.  Von  Mosen- 
gail,  treated  the  sick  and  wounded,  I  was  extremely  eager  to 
learn  from  them  how  to  dress  wounds,  and  to  assist  even  in 
operations.  The  Professor  was  pleased  with  my  earnestness, 
and  it  was  agreed  that  I  should  go  through  a  course  of  surgery 
somewhat  later. 

In  the  middle  of  April,  having  returned  to  Coblentz,  the 
colonency  of  the  crack  battalion  of  our  regiment  became  vacant 

by  Lieut. -Colonel  von  O being  promoted  to  some  higher 

command,  as  was  expected  long  since  by  Major  von  R , 

who  hoped  to  be  his  successor.  He  was,  however,  disap- 
pointed, for  the  order  arrived  from  Berlin  that  Sahn  should 
take  command  of  the  '  Fusilier  Battalion^'  This  created  some 
astonishment  in  Coblentz,  and  Ceneral  von  Hewarth,  sup- 
posing some  mistake,  as  Major  \on  R was  in  fact  the 

senior  field-officer,  telegraphed  to  Berlin  to  ascertain  whether 
he  was  correct.  The  answer  confirmed  Salm's  promotion, 
which  he,  I  think,  owed  principally  to  the  manner  in  which  he 
had  once,  in  Queretaro,  commanded  and  led  to  battle  the 
famous  Cazadores,  about  which  the  King  had  repeatedly  com- 
plimented him. 

Though  I  explained  before  how  we  were  situated,  and  this 
was  reason  enough  to  feel  uneasy  and  anxious  sometimes,  it 
was  still  not  a  sufficient  cause  for  the  deep  sadness  which  over- 
came me  very  frequently  since  the  New  Year.  I  was  some- 
times utterly  dejected,  and,  'ying  in  my  bed,  I  cried  myself  to 
sleep.  I  felt  an  indefinable  dread  pending  over  me,  and  a 
foreboding  that  something  very  sad  would  happen  often  in  the 
middle  of  the  gayest  company  so  forcibly  that  I  involuntarily 
shuddered. 

Spring  cam^e,  and  exerted  also  on  me  its  cheering  influence ; 


The  Queen  Returns  to  Cobientz.  i:y5 

we  made  many  excursions  up  and  down  the  Rhine,  mostly  in 
agreeable  company  ;  but  still  this  dreadful  foreboding  of  evil 
never  left  my  side,  and  such  passages  as  the  following,  under 
May  15,  occur  frequently  in  my  diary  :  '  I  am  very  tired,  and 
would  like  to  sleep  that  long  sleep  which  knows  no  awaking/ 

Time,  however,  went  on  as  usual,  and  the  summer  season 
promised  to  be  rather  gay,  for  the  Queen  had  returned  to  Cob- 
ientz, and  high  guests  from  all  parts  of  the  world  arrived  in 
Ems.  We  drove  there  on  May  19,  starting  air-.^dy  at  five 
o'clock  A.M.,  to  be  in  time  for  the  promenade.  With  us  were 
Countess  Constantine  Salm-Hoegstrjeten,  and  Princess  Rcse 
Salm-Salm,  the  young  pretty  wive  of  Alfred,  second  son  of  my 
husband's  brother,  born  Countess  Lutzow. 

On  the  Promenade  w^e  met  our  brilliant  cousin,  the  Duchess 
of  Ossuna,  and  also  the  Duke  her  husband,  one  of  the  richest 
men  of  Spain.  When  in  citizen's  dress  nobody  would  have 
guessed  that  the  short,  rather  thickset  man,  who  liked  to  laugh 
at  and  to  make  rather  doubtful  jokes,  was  such  a  great  person- 
age ;  but  when  in  uniform  no  Chinese  mandarian  could  look 
more  magnificent,  for  his  whole  body  was  covered  with  deco- 
rations and  stars  of  every  description. 

After  having  walked  a  little  while,  we  were  all  sitting  down  to 
rest  when  his  Majesty  the  Emperor  of  Russia,  who  knew  the 
Duke  very  well,  as  he  had  bej^n  Spanish  ambassador  in  Peters- 
burg, joined  us  and  took  a  S2at  next  to  me.  Salm  and  myself  were 
presented,  and  he  was  very  gracious  to  us.  After  half  an  hour, 
which  passed  in  a  very  j)leasant  and  interesting  conversation, 
his  Majesty  left,  quite  alone  and  unattended  as  he  had  come, 
except  by  a  large  mastiff,  which  followed  him  everywhere  like 
his  shadow. 

The  Duke  of  Ossuna  invited  us  to  a  very  agreeable  supper 
in  the  Kursaal.  Rose  suddenly  felt  unwell,  and  the  Duchess 
went  out  with  her  in  the  garden  to  take  some  air.  When  sit- 
ting down  for  a  moment,  a  man,  dressed  like  a  gentleman,  but 
apparently  under  the  influence  of  liquor,  who  was  pleased  by 
Princess  Rose's  pretty  young  face,  approached  and  grossly  in- 
sulted her.  The  Duchess  was  so  indignant  that  she  could  not 
even  say  a  word,  and  the  poor  Princess  so  frightened  that  she 
was  incapable  of  rising.  At  that  moment  I  came  with  Countess 
Constance,  and  the  fellow  sat  down  on  a  chair  quite  close  and 
reiterated  his  insults.     I  at  once  expressed  to  him  my  indig- 


294  Ten  Years  of  my  Life. 

nation  about  bis  behaviour, to  ladies,  when  he  knowingly  said, 
'  Ladies  !  ah  well,  they  are  ito  ladies  ! '  The  Duke  and  my 
husband  were  still  upstairs  in  the  room  settling,  the  bill,  but  at 
my  call  the  Prince  came  at  once,  and  having  been  informed 
of  the  behaviour  of  the  stranger,  he  went  up  to  him  asking  for 
his  card,  for,  as  I  said  before,  the  fellow  looked  liked  a  gentle- 
man. He  had  no  card,  and  on  this  and  what  he  said  Salm 
became  furious,  and  his  sword,  always  very  loose  in  its  scab- 
bard, flashed  out  at  once.  When  the  man  saw  that,  fright 
sobered  him,  and  he  ran  away  as  fast  as  he  could.  Some 
policemen  who  were  near  ran  after  him.  He  was  a  man  from 
Hamburg,  who  had  made  a  bet  to  drink  a  great  number  of 
bottles  of  champagne  within  a  certain  short  space  of  time. 
The  authorities  obliged  him  to  leave  next  day. 

On  May  22  the  Duchess  of  Ossuna  had  invited  us  to  a  din- 
ner at  Rheingrafenstein,  in  the  neighbourhood  of  which  her 
stepfather,  Prince  Solms-Braunfels,  had  a  viila.  I  was  pre- 
sented there  to  the  Prince  and  Princess,  and  the  Duchess's 
half-sisters.  We  spent  a  jjleasant  day  and  came  home  rather 
late. 

In  the  following  weeks  I  was  almost  always  in  Bonn,  to  con- 
tinue my  cure  and  to  pursue  my  studies  in  the  hospital.  On 
the  24th  I  went  with  the  doctors  to  the  operation  room,  and 
assisted  at  three  operations  made  by  Professor  Busch.  I  was 
not  in  the  least  nervous,  and  saw  and  noticed  everything  with 
the  greatest  interest.  On  June  i  I  commenced  to  assist  the 
Professor  and  learn  hov/  to  dress  wounds.  I  attended  also  in 
the  operation  room,  and  admired  the  consummate  skill  of  the 
Professor,  who  cuts  off  a  leg  or  an  arm  in  an  incredibly  short 

time. 

On  June  6  I  went  to  Coblentz  to  the  christening  of  a  child 
in  the  English  church  in  the  Queen's  palace.  After  that  we 
dined  at  the  hotel,  and  it  was  discovered  to  the  dismay  of 
several,  amongst  whom  I  was  one,  that  we  were  thirteen  at  the 
table  !  Amongst  these  thirteen  were  my  husband  and  Colonel 
Count  Waldersee,  who  both  were  dead  before  three  months  ! 

As  the  physician  thought  it  beneficial  for  me  to  use  the 
waters  of  Ems,  I  went  there  to  remain  for  a  time,  on  the  20th. 
The  Duchess  recommended  to  me  her  physician,  Dr.  Vogel, 
who  called  and  advised  me  to  bathe  and  to  drink  the  water 
mixed  with  milk 


Oar  Royal  Escort.  295 

In  the  afternoon  friends  came  from  Coblentz,  and  we  all 
went  to  the  Promenade  at  seven  o'clock.  In  our  company 
were  the  Duchess  of  Ossuna  with  her  sister  Mary  Solms,  Count 
and  Countess  Waldersee,  and  General  von  Berger.  When  we 
were  sitting  around  a  table  the  King,  who  had  arrived  only  in 
the  afternoon,  came  and  sat  down  between  the  Duchess  and 
myself,  remaining  nearly  an  hour.  His  Majesty  looked  ex- 
tremely well,  and  was  in  very  good  humour. 

I  had  the  honour  of  being  every  day  in  his  company,  fbr  at 
the  Promenade  he  almost  always  walked  with  us.  On  the 
22nd  his  Majesty  invited  the  Duchess  and  myself  to  the  theatre, 
and  he  took  his  seat  between  us. 

On  the  following  day  I  felt  very  ill,  and  telegraphed  for 
Professor  Busch.  The  good  Professor,  though  his  time  was  so 
precious,  came,  and  I  presented  him  to  Eleonore,  who  wished 
to  consult  him  also.  1  had  to  remain  in  bed  for  several  days, 
and  a  great  number  of  persons  came  and  called  on  me. 

On  the  28th,  when  I  was  better,  the  Duchess  called  with  a 
whole  train  of  admirers,  who  remained  an  hour,  filling  my 
room  with  smoke. 

Though  the  weather  was  not  favourable,  I  went  out  with 
visitors  coming  from  Coblentz  for  a  short  promenade,  which, 
however,  became  a  long  one,  as  his  Majesty  hononred  us  by 
joining  our  company. 

In  the  evening  we  took  supper  at  the  Kurhaus  in  company 
with  Prince  Albrecht,  the  youngest  brother  of  his  Majesty,  who 
seemed  to  like  our  little  circle,  formed  by  the  Duke  and 
Duchess  of  Ossuna,  Count  and  Countess  Larisch,  some  of  our 
relatives  coming  from  Coblentz,  the  aides-de-camp  of  the  King, 
the  Duke  of  Ugest,  Count  Perponcher,  &c. 

Next  morning  the  Duchess  and  train  again  filled  my  room 
with  smoke— the  ladies    smoking   likewise — until   I    became 

quite  dizzy.     Felix  arrived  with  Mr.  and   Mrs.  von  C ; 

in  the  evening  we  all  -went  to  the  Promenade,  and  after  it  to 
the  theatre,  his  Majesty  sitting  between  Eleonore  and  myself. 
After  the  theatre  we  all  took  supper  at  the  Hotel  Prince  of 
Wales,  and  at  eleven  Salm  and  von  C returned  to  Cob- 
lentz, 

On  the  30th  I  attended  a  dinner  at  Coblentz,  but  returned 
for  the  evening  promenade,  and  looked  from  the  balcony  of 
the  Kurhaus  at  some  fireworks.     His  Majesty,  Prince  Albrecht 


29G  Ten   Years  of  r)iy  Life. 

and  several  persons  of  the  Court,  were  present.  The  fireworks 
over,  we  all  went  to  the  Hotol  Prince  of  Wales,  where  we  had 
the  honour  of  taking  supper  with  the  King  and  his  brother. 
I  sat  opposite  his  Majesty,  who  presented  each  of  us  ladies 
with  a  rose.  After  supper  the  whole  party  accompanied  the 
King  to  his  residence. 

Though  I  was  not  insensible  to  the  kindness  shown  to  me 
by  everybody  and  the  distinction  bestowed  on  me  by  the  most 
exalted  personages,  which  would  have  made  many  others  per- 
fectly happy,  I  was  as  sad  as  could  be  when  alone,  a  feeling  of 
dread  always  hanging  over  me  like  a  thundercloud.  This  feel- 
ing was  made  worse  by  reflecting  on  my  position,  of  which  the 
outside  contrasted  too  strikingly  with  its  real  state,  and  which 
perhaps  was  not  guessed  at  by  others.  I  was  treated  as  an 
equal  by  persons  to  whom  thousands  of  thalers  were  as  insig- 
nificant as  were  to  me  so  many  groschens,  and  Eieaven  knows 
what  trouble  I  had  to  keep  up  appearances,  when  even  the  ex- 
penses for  my  gloves  were  more  than  I  could  afford.  How- 
ever, I  was  in  for  it,  and  could  not  retreat,  though  I  shuddered 
at  thinking  of  the  end.  I  tried  to  forget  it,  and  to  pursue  my 
course  with  as  good  a  mien  as  possible. 

It  was  hard  enough,  and  I  was  very  much  vexed  when 
Countess  Larisch  surprised  me  next  morning  in  a  crying  fit, 
though  I  had  to  shake  it  off  and  to  go  to  the  Promenade, 
where  his  Majesty's  extreme  kindness  did  not  fail  to  pour  oil 
into  my  sore  heait. 

Felix  had  invited  our  set  to  an  evening  party  at  our  house 
in  Coblentz.  I  had  invited  also  Prince  Albrecht,.  but  his  Eoyal 
Highness  had  to  decline,  as  he  had  a  little  party  himself. 

I  was  quite  astonished  to  see  in  what  an  excellent  manner 
my  husband  had  made  all  arrangements.  Our  party  consisted 
of  twenty-one  persons.  We  had  a  dance,  and  all  were  as  merry 
as  could  be. 

I  had,  however,  an  inflammation  in  my  ear,  and  little  Kitty, 
a  baby  pup  of  Jimmy's,  which  I  liad  with  me  that  night,  knocked 
against  it  in  such  a  manner  that  I  became  nearly  mad  with  pain. 
I  went  next  morning  with  Felix  to  Bonn,  where  I  had  to  tay 
a  whole  week,  but  it  was^no  quiet  week  either,  for  Felix's 
brother  came  with  some  other  relatives,  who  had  been  on  a 
visit  to  Anholt,  and  the  hereditary  Prince  was  always  there. 

On  July  6,  the  Duke  and   Duchess  of  Ossuna,   Count  and 


Keeping  uiJ  Airpeavances.  297 

Countess  Larisch,  and  Felix  increased  our  company.  Whilst 
the  rest  of  us,  after  having  seen  the  sights  of  Bonn,  went  to 
dine  at  the  Hotel  Royal,  the  Duke  satisfied  his  rather  curious 
whim  to  see  the  dead  bodies  ready  for  dissection  in  the  anatomi- 
cal room,  and  Felix  had  to  accompany  •  him. 

In  the  afternoon  I  had  a  long  con^iltation  with  Professor 
Busch,  and  I  went  to  his  new  house  and  in  his  pretty  garden.  See- 
ing Mrs.  Busch  surrounded  by  such  pretty,  healthy  children,  a 
blessed  mother  and  wife,  happy  in  every  respect,  and  compar- 
ing her  condition  with  mine,  I  felt  quite  wretched,  and  had  a 
crying  fit  which  made  me  quite  angry,  for  I  was  afraid  she 
would  tell  the  Professor,  who  always  treated  me  like  a  child, 
and  would  have  laughed  at  me. 

Next  morning  when  I  was  very  low-spirited,  I  received  a 
despatch  from  Felix  calling  me  back.  I  therefore  said  good- 
bye to  the  kind  people  in  Bonn  and  went  to  Coblentz,  and  i;-. 
the  afternoon  returned  with  Felix  to  Ems,  where  we  arrived  at 
eight.  On  the  Promenade  we  saw  the  King  sitting  with  our 
usual  company.  His  Majesty  rose,  shook  hands  with  me,  and 
invited  me  to  sit  doAvn.  After  he  left  we  went  to  supper  at 
the  Prince  of  Wales.  Prince  Albrecht  sat  at  my  side.  He 
was  in  a  very  good  humour,  and  said  many  funny  things. 

Everybody  will  still  remember  that  summer  of  1S70,  and 
especially  the  important  scenes  enacted  in  Ems,  which  hu- 
such  serious  and  dreadful  consequences.  The  candidature  of 
the  young  Prince  Hohenzollern  for  the  vacant  throne  of  Spain 
was  then  the  great  topic  of  the  day,  and  hundreds  of  eager  eyes 
looked  into  the  face  of  our'  noble  old  King  to  read  off  from  its 
expression  the  future  of  the  European  world.  When,  on  the 
evening  of  the  8th,  his  Majesty  honoured  our  company  as  usual 
and  was  sitting  next  to  me,  he  spoke  about  Spain,  and  said  that 
he  did  not  feel  satisfied  with  Prince  Hohenzollern's  acceptance 
of  the  crown  of  that  country,  fearing  that  evil  might  result  from 
it. 

On  the  nth  all  sorts  of  rumours  were  current.  We  spoka 
with  the  King  only  a  iQw  moments  in  the  morning,  and  made, 
with  the  Duchess,  Countess  Furstemberg,  Countess  Larisch, 
and  several  gentlemen,  a  delightful  party  in  the  woods,  from 
which  we  returned  at  eight  o'clock  p.m.  We  found  Felix  in 
Ems,  and  we  all  made  a  promenade  with  his  Majesty.  On 
comuig  home  I  found  an  order  of  her  Majesty  the  Queen  for 


298  Ten   Years  of  my  Life, 

dinner  next  day,  and  the  same  was  received  by  the  Duke  and 
Duchess  of  Ossuna,  and  the  Counts  and  Countesses  Furstem- 
burg  arid  Larisch. 

Next  morning  the  Augusta  regiment  arrived  at  Ems,  and 
passed  in  parade  before  the  King  and  Prince  Albrecht,  stand- 
ing with  their  staffs  by  chance  right  opposite  my  windows. 
That  over,  we  drove  to  our  house  in  Coblentz,  and  went  to 
dinner  in  the  palace  at  five  o'clock.  The  Queen  was  very 
gracious,  and  gave  me  a  little  lecture  about  ray  health,  and 

Countess  H was  quite  malicious,  making  some  pointed 

remarks,  which,  however,  did  not  hurt  me. 

The  dinner  was  soon  over,  for  the  queen  had  after  it  a 
grand  cafe-dansa?it  in  the  garden,  where  about  two  hundred 
people  from  Coblentz  appeared  in  their  best  looks  and  finery. 

We  all  should  have  liked  to  stay  to  the  end  of  the  festivrJ, 
but  her  Majesty  would  not  allow  us,  as  we  vvere  under  medical 
treatment,  jestingly  saying  that  she  would  not  deprive  his 
Majesty  the  King  of  his  usual  company.  She  had  ordered  the 
express  train  to  stop  for  us  near  the  palace,  and  about  seven 
o'clock  we  had  to  leave. 

In  walking  from  the  palace  to  the  bridge  where  the  train 
stood,  we  were  surprised  by  a  pelting  shower,  which  made  sad 
iiavoc  with  our  bonnets  and  dresses,  though  I  did  not  suffer 
much,  for  I  sheltered  myself  under  the  ample  petticoats  of  my 
magnificent  cousin,  who  laughed  at  my  expedient  of  using  her 
as  a  tent.  Our  whole  party  arrived  like  drowned  rats  on  the 
Promenade,  or  like  wet  peacocks,  which  seemed  the  impres- 
sion of  his  Majesty,  who  joked  us  about  our  fine  feathers  being 
ruffled  by  the  rain. 

Just  when  the  King  left  us  and  went  away  with  Count  Lehn- 
dorff,  the  French  minister,  Count  Benedetti,  stopped  his 
Majesty  and  said  something  to  him,  on  which  our  noble 
sovereign  became  two  inches  taller,  and  his  kind  face  acquired 
an  expression  that  I  had  never  before  seen  upon  it.  Making 
an  impatient  movement  with  his  hand  towards  Count  Lehn- 
dorff  he  went  away  alone,  leaving  the  oily  Frenchman  quite 
petrified.  All  who  were  near  were  very  curious,  and  the  news 
of  this  rather  strange  occurrence  ran  like  wildfire  through  all 
Ems,  creating  great  excitement. 

On  July  13  I  was  up  early,  and  we^t  to  the  Promenade, 
where  I  saw  the  King  walking  with  General  von  Treskow,  his 


The  King  and  Benedetti.  299 

Adjutant-General.  His  Majesty  looked  sad,  and  his  conver- 
sation seemed  of  an  important  character.  After  having  break- 
fasted in  company  with  Prince  Albrecht  and  several  other 
ladies  and  gentlemen,  I  attended  to  some  trifling  business  and 
made  some  calls.  During  my  absence  Prince  Albrecht  came 
to  see  me,  I  suppose  to  invite  me  to  supper,  which  he  did 
afterwards  together  with  the  rest  of  our  clique,  when  he  met  us 
in  the  evening  on  the  Promenade. 

Felix  and  Mr.  and  Mrs.  von  C had  arrived  and  were 

invited  also.  We  supped  in  the  Kurgarten — about  twenty- five 
persons.  I  was  sitting  between  Count  Eulenburg  (who  had 
arrived  from  Berlin,  instead  of  Count  Bismarck,  who  was 
expected)  and  Count  Furstemberg.  The  King  looked  per- 
fectly calm  and  serene,  and  nobody  could  have  seen  in  his 
face  that  he  expected  a  declaration  of  war.  [  said  to  him  that 
I,  in  case  of  war,  would  go  with  the  army  to  nurse  the  wounded, 
and  that  I  fortunately  had  learnt  how  to  do  so  already  in  the 
hospitals  at  Bonn. 

*Then  really  you  think  there  will  be  war?'  his  Majesty  said  ; 
*  well,  if  there  should  be  one,  I  am  sure  you  would  do  good 
service  ;  but  do  not  cut  off  too  many  ears.' 

I  was  in  earnest,  and  wrote  next  morning  to  the  Queen  to 
ask  permission  to  go  in  case  of  war  with  the  army  as  a  nurse. 
Everybody  in  Ems  was  much  excited  ;  nothing  was  known  yet 
for  certain,  but  it  was  generally  believed  that  there  would  be  a 
war  with  France,  and  this  belief  was  confirmed  when  it  became 
known  that  his  Majesty  would  return  to  Berlin. 

In  the  afternoon  I  went  with  a  party  to  Coblentz,  to  the 
concert  at  the  Swiss  House  in  the  Queen's  Promenade.  The 
concert  was  much  crowded,  and  all  the  ladies  of  our  regiment 
and  their  friends  were  present  and  sitting  together.  When  the 
King  and  Queen  appeared  they  were  received  with  great  en- 
thusiasm, the  ladies  waiving  their  handkerchiefs  and  crying  at 
the  same  time.  This  token  of  our  love  seemed  to  please  his 
Majesty,  as  well  it  miglit,  for  it  came  from  the  inmost  of  loyal 
hearts  ;  the  Queen  was  much  affected  and  had  tears  in  her 
eyes. 

The  King  came  and  shook  hands  with  me,  and  when  we, 
with  Count  and  Countess  Waldersee,  had  gone  after  the  con- 
cert to  Ems,  we  promenaded^  with  his  Majesty  and  accom- 
panied him  to  his  door. 


SOO  Ten   Years  of  my  Life. 

Next  day,  July  15,  1870,  Avas  a  memorable  day,  which  will 
be  remembered  in  history  many  thousand  years.  War  between 
Germany  and  France  had  been  declared,  and  our  dear  King 
was  to  leave  for  Berlin  at  eight  a.m.  We  all  went  to  the 
station  to  say  farewell  to  him  and  give  him  bouquets. 

Our  leave-taking  was  an  affecting  scene.  The  good  King 
had  t^ars  in  his  eyes,  all  the  ladies  cried,  and  even  the  aides- 
de-camp  and  General  Treskow  were  crying  like  children.  The 
King  gave  Eleonore,  Countess  Larisch,  Mrs.  von  Schrecken- 
stein,  Mrs.  von  Pommer-Esche,  and  myself  each  his  photo^ 
graph,  and  I  kissed  his  hand,  much  against  his  will. 

We  breakfasted  with  Prince  Albrecht  and  General  von  Her- 
warth,  but  we  all  felt  very  sad  and  remained  so  all  day.  At 
seven  o'clock  p.m.  Countess  Larisch  fetched  me  to  go  with 
Eleonore  and  others  to  Lahnstein  to  see  the  Duke  off.  When 
he  was  gone  the  Duchess  went  up  to  the  Castle,  but  as  we  did 

not  feel  in  a  mood  to  follow  her,  I  with  Mrs.  von  S ,  and 

the  Princes  Plnlip  Croy,  Solms,  and  Hohenloe,  returned  to 
Ems,  where  we  took  supper  with  Prince  Albrecht,  his  aide-de- 
camp, and  three  other  ladies.  His  Royal  Highness  was  also 
more  serious  and  silent  than  usual. 

Next  morning  little  Ems  offered  a  curious  spectacle.  Every- 
body seemed  to  be  in  a  panic.  People  were  running  about 
like  ants  when  their  hill  has  been  disturbed  by  a  stick.  The 
streets  were  crowded  with  porters  carrying  luggage,  for  every- 
body hurried  home.     Landlords    were  distracted    and  forgot 

their  bills,  as  did  many  of  their  guests.     Mrs.  von  S was 

(juite  frantic,  raving  about  her  curtains  and  furniture,  believing 
that  the  French  would  be  before  her  in  Dusseldorf  Prince 
Croy  appeared,  and  mildly  censured  her  for  thinking  more 
about  her  furniture  than  about  her  husband,  who  was,  however, 
not  very  likely  to  come  in  too  close  contact  with  the  French, 
as  he  was  aide-de-camp  to  an  inactive  General,  Prince  Hohen- 
zollern. 

Felix  arrived  for  me  in  the  afternoon,  and  I  returned  with 
him  to  Coblentz.  This  city  was  filHng  with  a  crowd  of  soldiers, 
reservists  joining  their  regiments,  who  poured  in  by  thousands 
from  all  directions,  mostly  anticipating  the  official  summons. 
Their  number  was  so  great  that  all  of  them  could  not  be 
quartered,  and  many  bivouacked  in  the  streets  or  found  shelter 
in  outhouses  and  barns. 


German  EntJatsiasm.  301 

The  Germans  are  generally  a  very  quiet,  rather  phlegmatic 
people,  and  I  was  greatly  astonished  at  the  sudden  change 
that  had  come  over  them.  Their  enthusiasm  was  wonderful  to 
witness,  and  still  more  so  was  the  manner  in  which  it  expressed 
itself.  There  was  no  mad  shouting  and  bragging  to  be  heard 
anywhere,  but  the  face  of  each  reservist  or  recruit  one  met  in 
the  street  showed  that  he  came  with  a  good  will  ;  ajl  were 
fully  convinced  that  they  would  not  have  been  called  from 
their  fields  and  firesides  if  there  was  no  good  cause  for  it; 
for  their  confidence  in  their  superiors  was  unbounded,  as  was 
their  love  for  their  country  and  the  King  standing  at  its  head. 
Even  those  who  did  not  understand  the  real  cause  of  the  war 
did  not  grumble ;  they  were  wanted  by  their  King  to  defend 
his  honour,  identical  with  that  of  his  people,  their  beloved 
Fatherland,  and  its  boundary  stream,  the  Rhine,  against  its 
nearest  neighbour.  As  this  neighbour  had  provoked  the  war 
when  least  thought  of,  everybody  supposed  tliat  the  French 
were  fully  prepared,  and  it  was  therefore  believed  that  their 
columns  were  already  in  full  movement  towards  the  Rhine, 
and  that  they  would  reach  that  river  before  the  Prussian  army 
was  ready.  This  circumstance  caused  much  anxiety  amongst 
officers  and  private  soldiers,  and  spurred  everyone  to  the 
greatest  possible  exertions.  Whenever  a  day  passed  without 
any  news  from  the  French  it  was  considered  as  a  great  gain, 
for  it  was  a  day  won  for  the  necessary  preparations.  Though 
rather  inclined  to  over- value  the  efficiency  of  the  French  army 
and  the  bravery  of  its  soldiers,  nobody  was  afraid  of  them  if  the 
Prussian  army  could  once  gain  its  position. 

On  July  1 7  the  Queen  took  leave  of  her  regiment.  She  told 
Salm  that  she  had  received  my  letter,  and  was  much  pleased 
W'ith  my  desire  to  follow  the  army,  and  that  I  might  do  so  at 
the  proper  time.  I  therefore  went  next  day  to  Bonn  to  attend 
in  the  hospitals,  and  to  learn  still  as  much  as  possible.  There 
I  found  the  Princess  Wied,  Countess  Renno,  and  Countess 
Nesselrode,  who  remained  with  Professor  Busch  in  the  hospi- 
tal from  the  morning  until  six  o'clock  p.m.  to  become  acquainted 
with  the  duty  of  nurses. 

I  had  requested  the  Professor  to  take  me  with  him  in  the 
field  if  he  should  go,  and  he  consented,  giving  me  at  the  same 
time  a  certificate,  stating  that  I  had  studied  one  month  in  the 
cliniqiie,  and  that  I  was  able  to  do  very  good  service. 


802  Ten   Years  of  my  Life. 

Knowing  that  the  Queen  on  her  way  to  Berlin  would  pass 
Bonn,  I  was  of  course  at  tiie  -station,  where  Professor  Busch 
accompanied  me.  Her  Majesty  was  cheered  enthusiastically 
on  her  arrival.  I  showed  her  my  certificate,  and  she  was  very 
gracious,  giving  me  her  hand,  and  saying  that  we  shoul'i  meet 
again  soon. 

NeiSyt  morning  I  was  already,  at  seven  o'clock  a.m.,  in  the 
hospital,  where  other  ladies  also  arrived,  and  we  all  dressed 
wounds  and  assisted  in  the  operation-room. 

At  eleven  o'clock  I  went  with  Mrs.  von  Loe  to  the  Aula  of 
the  University,  where  the  Professors  had  invited  the  students 
to  a  meeting.  We  two  were  the  only  ladies  present  in  this 
great  gathering  ;  but  I  am  glad  that  I  was  tliere,  for  I  shall 
never  forget  that  scene.  Several  Professors  addressed  the 
students  in  short  speeches.  Professor  Busch,  who  was  ex- 
tremely popular  with  them,  suggested  th^  idea  of  forming  a 
corps  to  assist  the  wounded  on  the  battle-field.  His  speech 
and  proposition  were  received  with  enthusiastic  applause  and 
cheering  by  the  hundreds  of  fine  youths  who  are  the  flower  of 
the  nation,  and  who  were  all  ready  to  go. 

In  the  afternoon  Professor  Busch  brought  me  the  very  wel- 
come intelligence  that  he  had  been  appointed  Surgeon-General 
of  the  8th,  the  Rhenish,  Army  Corps,  for  now  I  was  sure  of 
having  the  best  opportunity  of  nursing  my  husband  in  case  of 
his  being  wounded. 

When  I  returned  to  Coblentz,  in  the  evening  of  July  21,  1 
found,  with  Felix,  Corvin,  who  had  arrived  from  London,  and 
stayed  with  us  in  our  spare  room.  They  had  refused  him  a 
through  ticket  to  Cologne  in  London,  believing  that  the  French 
would  make  the  passage  impossible.  He  was  going  with  the 
army  as  a  w^ar  correspondent  for  the  '  New  Free  Press  of 
Vienna/  the  '  Garten laube,'  and  some  American  and  English 
pa])ers. 

Next  day  my  cousin.  Princess  Minna  Salm-Salm,  arrived 
with  her  eldest  son,  Florentine,  a  boy  of  about  seventeen,  who 
was  still  in  the  college,  but  entering  the  battalion  of  my  hus- 
band, the  King  having  made  him  a  lieutenant.  Mrs.  von  Cor- 
vin arrived  at  the  same  time  from  Hamburg.  She  had  at- 
tended there  in  the  hospitals,  and  intended  going  to  the  field 
also. 

It  was  then  a  busy,  thrilling  time,  and  there  was  no  house, 


yarroio  Escape.  30o 

no  family  in  Coblentz,  nor,  in  fact,  in  all  Germany,  where  pre- 
parations for  the  war  were  not  being  made  ;  the  wives  and 
mothers  trying  to  overcome  their  very  naturally  sad  forebodings 
and  feelings. 

In  my  little  home  everythin.sj  was  topsy-turvy,  for  both  of  us 
were  to  leave  it  for  an  indefinite  space  of  time.  Salm  was  i. 
high  spirits,  and  busily  preparing  for  the  field.  His  things 
were  packed  and  lying  about  in  the  roonts.  All  these  prepa- 
rations were  near  being  made  useless,  for  when  he,  with  Corvin, 
went  out  for  a  walk,  and  passed  a  gate  in  the  fortifications  which 
workmen  were  putting  in  order  of  defence,  two  large  beams 
fell  down  with  a  crash  six  inches  before  their  feet ;  one  step 
more  and  both  would  have  been  killed. 

On  Monday,  the  25th,  Count  Waldersee  had  assembled  the 
whole  Regiment  Augusta  on  the  Exercierplatz.  All  the  re- 
servists, many  of  whom  had  been  more  than  a  year  away  at 
home,  had  entered  and  swelled  its  strength  to  the  normal 
number  of  three  thousand  men,  and  the  Colonel  wished  to  see 
whether  they  still  remembered  what  they  had  been  taught. 
He  went  through  all  the  manoeuvres  of  a  mimic  battle,  and 
everything  went  off  in  such  an  excellent  manner,  without  the 
slightest  mistake  or  fault,  that  Salm  and  Corvin  returned  home 
quite  enthusiastic  with  admiration,  more  than  ever  convinced 
that  troops  like  these  would  not  find  their  equals  in  the  world, 
and  that  they  need  not  fear  a  contest  with  any  army. 

When  Salm  in  the  afternoon  was  with  me  nnd  Corvin  in  his 
room,  busy  at  his  writing-table,  and  seemed  puzzled  about 
something,  the  Colonel  asked  what  troubled  him.  '  Oh,'  he 
answered,  laughingly,  '  I  am  undecided  whether  I  shall  take 
with  me  my  best  cigars  I  brought  from  Havana,  or  an  inferior 
field  sort.'  '  Take  the  best,'  answered  Corvin,  '  for  if  you  are 
shot  you  have  at  least  had  yourself  the  pleasure  of  smoking 
them.'  '  Indeed,'  said  Salm,  '  this  time  I  shall  be  killed,  1  am 
sure  of  it.'  '  Why,'  asked  Corvin,  '  what  makes  you  think  so  ? 
You  have  gone  through  the  whole  American  war  unharmed, 
and  the  Liberals  before  Queretaro  did  not  fire  with  dumplings 
either,'  '  It  is  different  this  time  ;  after  all  they  have  written 
about  me  in  the  papers  and  said  here,  many  eyes  will  be  upon 
me,  and  I  am  under  the  necessity  of  exposing  myself  more 
than  I  should  perhaps  do  otherwise.  I  am  only  sorry,'  Salm 
continued,  '  for  the  poor  boy,  my  nephew,  and  almost  regret 


304?  Ten   Years  of  my  Life. 

that  I  induced  his  mother  to  send  him  with  me.  He  is  a 
brave,  ambitious  boy,  and  I  am  sure  he  will  be  always  near 
ne  and  will  be  killed  also.' 

Listening  to  this  conversation  my  heart  rose  to  ray  throat,  for 
I  had  felt  long  ago  what  my  husband  said  ;  I  was  almost  sure 
that  I  should  never  see  him  again  alive. 

On  Tuesday,  July  26,  the  'vhole  arrny  commenced  its  move- 
ment towards  the  French  frontier.  The  French  marshals  had 
made  a  great  mistake  and  lost  precious  time,  fooled  by  the 
skilful  manoeuvering  ot  the  garrisons  of  Saarlouis  and  Saar- 
brucken,  which  succeeded  in  making  them  believe  that  the 
whole  Prussian  army  was  close  behind  them,  when  it  was  still 
forming  many  hundreds  of  miles  off.  General  Moltke  would 
rather  run  the  risk  of  letting  the  French  advance  to  the  Rhine, 
than  that  01  a  defeat  if  meeting  them  prematurely  with  nisuffi- 
cient  forces. 

The  regiment  Augusta  was  to  march  Jso  on  that  day.  I 
had  wished  so  much  to  go  with  the  regiment,  to  be  near  my 
husband,  for  I  always  imagined  that  nothing  could  happen  if  I 
was  with  him.  Count  Waldersee  was  willing,  and  said  if  I 
really  wished  to  go  I  might  go  in  the  hospital  waggon,  but 
Salm  was  decidedly  against  it  and  I  had  to  submit.  1  suppose 
he  was  right,  for  warfcire  with  the  Prussian  army  was  indeed 
a  far  difterent  thing  from  what  it  war.  in  the  United  States  or 
Mexico. 

Though  all  preparations  -vvere  made  already  the  evening  be- 
fore, I  rose  at  three  o'clock  a.m.,  for  the  regiment  was  to 
march  at  half-past  five.  1  never  in  all  my  life  felt  so  wretched 
as  I  felt  on  that  morning.  I  had  said  good-bye  many  times 
before  to  my  husband  under  similar  circumstances,  but  never 
had  apprehencTed  that  anything  would  happen  to  him  ;  an 
inward  voice  telling  me  always  that  we  should  meet  again. 
This  time  it  was  different.  Suddenly  was  revealed  to  me  the 
meaning  of  that  dread  which  had  hovered  around  me  since  the 
commencement  of  the  year.  I  walked  about  like  one  in  a 
dream,  and  whoever  saw  me  might  have  imagined  that  I  telt 
but  little,  for  the  greatest  grief  is  silent.  I  might  have  remem- 
bered that  thousands  of  loving  wives  perhaps  had  at  that  time 
feelings  similar  to  mine,  but  in  the  moment  of  parting  such  re- 
flections afford  no  consolation,  for  nobody  thinks  of  m.-^king 
them,  as  sorrow  dwellincr  in   the  heart  and  not  in  the  brain 


Parting,  SO  5 

does  not  reflect.  In  that  dreadful  moment  I  could  not  even 
feel  for  poor  Minna,  who  had  to  part  from  her  boy,  and  whose 
heart  was  as  heavy  as  mine,  for  she  also  had  the  feeling  that 
she  should  never  see  him  again. 

When  clasping  my  brave  Felix  for  the  last  time  in  my  arms, 
it  was  like  a  leave-taking  on  a  death-bed ;  and  when  he  was 
gone,  and  even  the  sound  of  the  horses  had  died  away ;  it 
>eemed  to  both  of  us,  Minna  and  myself,  that  we  had  heard 
ihe  rattling  of  the  funeral  car. 

Silently  we  fell  into  each  other's  arms  in  a  close  embrace, 
niingling  our  tears  ;  and  our  fervent  prayers  for  husband  and 
.on  went  up  together  to  the  throne  of  the  Almighty. 


v^\i 


CHx^PTER  XX. 

My  preparations  for  the  field — Miss  Louisa  Runkel — Leave-talcing  in  Ati- 
holt — Prince  Alfred  and  three  sons  in  the  war — Difficulties  about  a 
horse — I  try  impossibilities — Make  them  possible — With  General  von 
Steinmetz,  chief  of  the  first  army — £n  route — My  defeat — Hermeskeil 
— Treves — Disappointment — Saarlouis — Impiiident  ducks — Henswei- 
ler— ^Gloious  news — In  a  brewery — Prince  Adalbert  of  Prussia — Ars 
Admiral  on  diy  land — The  distant  thunder — Of  Spichem—  Saarbruck 
— Meeting  Corvin — Entering  on  my  duties — The  starving  French 
prisoners — Confusion — The  battle-field — Arrival  of  the  King -A  raid 
on  the  Royal  kitchen — Carrying  off  my  booty — Caught  by  his  Majesty 
— My  confusion — In  the  Hospitals — The  i8th  of  August — Fearful 
dreams — Vague  rumours — Starting  for  the  front — Felix  killed — 
Florentine  killed — How  my  husband  died — letter  of  Rev.  Mr.  Farmet 
— Letter  of  Salm's  .seivant — My  vow — Going  on  a  sad  eiTand — A 
fearful  night  in  Remilly — Ars  sur-Moselle — A  melancholy  task — 
'  Mother  Simon  ' — How  I  found  my  poor  husband — Bringing  home 
the  bodies — Funeral  in  Anholt — Last  words  of  love. 

Time  and  occupation  are  the  only  effective  remedies  against 
sorrow.  I  had  no  leisure  to  indulge  in  the  'luxury  of  grief 
— which  is,  however,  only  a  luxury  for  the  weak.  As  I  was 
to  go  with  the  army  also,  or  at  least  to  follow  it  as  close  as 
possible,  I  had  to  finish  my  preparations,  and  next  to  consult 
with  Professor  Busch.  Mrs.  von  Corvin  and  I  left  at  nine 
o'clock  in  the  steamboat  for  Bonn,  where  we  found  Miss 
Louisa  Runkel,  who  was  to  accompany  and  remain  with  me 
in  the  war.  She  had  been  recommended  very  highly  by 
Princess  Wied,  and  after  having  seen  her  at  Coblentz  I 
accepted  her  as  a  companion.  She  had  also  attended  the  hos- 
pitals and  learnt  how  to  nurse  the  wounded,  and  was  desirous 
of  going  with  me,  because  her  two  brothers  were  officers  serv- 
ing in  the  army  of  which  Professor  Busch  was  surgeon-general, 
and  of  course  she  wanted  to  be  as  near  to  them  as  possible. 


Confusion  in  Oherhausen.  307 

Princess  Minna  arrived  in  Bonn  later  in  the  day.  After 
supper  Mrs.  von  Corvin  left  for  Frankfort  at  twelve  o'clock 
P.M.,  and  thus  closed  that  very  sad  day. 

Next  morning  Dr.  Busch  came  and  gave  me  a  letter  for 
Prince  Alfred,  my  brother-in-law  in  Anholt,  and  instructions 
in  reference  to  another  which  I  was  to  write  to  Prince  Pless, 
whom  the  King  had  placed  at  the  head  of  the  sanitary  com- 
missioners formed  by  the  Johanniters,  Knights  of  Malta,  and 
otherwise. 

I  left  Bonn  together  with  Minna,  who  returned  to  her  Castle 
Rhede,  near  Wesel.  We  had  to  remain  three  hours  in  Oher- 
hausen, waiting  for  a  train  to  take  us  farther,  ^nd  I  profited 
by  this  opportunity  to  write  my  letter  to  Prince  Pless. 

There  was  great  confusion  in  Oberhausen,  for  a  great  num- 
ber of  people  for  miles  around  had  collected  to  see  the  trains 
pass,  all  filled  with  soldiers,  and  following  each  other  nearly 
every  hour.  It  was  a  most  lively  scene.  The  soldiers  were 
in  the  best  spirits,  for  the  enthusiasm  with  which  they  were 
greeted  by  the  people  on  their  whole  way  throughout  Germany 
could  not  but  produce  the  most  cheering  eftect.  The  whole 
journey  from  the  kir  east  of  the  monarchy  to  the  Rhine  was 
an  uninterrupted  festival.  There  was  no  window  on  the  road- 
side from  which  the  soldiers  were  not  cheered,  and  even  from 
houses  that  scarcely  could  be  seen  from  the  road  handkerchiefs 
waved  them  a  farewell.  One  could  see  the  heart  of  the  peo- 
ple was  in  the  war,  and  foreigners  who  happened  to  be  at  that 
time  in  Germany  were  struck  with  admiration. 

Princess  Mmna  left  me  in  Wesel,  and  I  took  leave  of  her 
and  of  dear  old  Jimmy,  who  was  to  stay  with  my  cook  in 
Castle  Rhede.  I  was  very  sorry  to  part  v/ith  my  faithful  com- 
panion, who  had  been  wich  me  in  two  wars  ;  bat  now  he  had 
become  rather  old  and  spoiled,  and  the  hardships  of  a  cam- 
paign would  have  been  too  much  for  him  ;  moreover,  he  was 
always  frightened  out  of  his  senses  on  hearing  a  shot. 

I  arrived  in  Anholt  at  half-past  one  a.m.,  and  found  the 
whole  iamily  up  to  receive  me.  As  I  had  to  leave  at  five 
o'clock,  and  Prince  Alfred  also,  we  did  not  go  to  bed  at  all. 

Though  I  had  gone  to  Anholt  to  say  good-bye  to  the  family 
I  also  went  there  in  hopes  of  getting  from  my  brother-in-law  a 
horse,  as  he  had  so  many  in  his  stables,  and  I^'elix  had  taken 
with  him  his  two  and  also  my   horse,     i  was,  however,  much 


o 


08  Ten   Years  of  my  Life. 


disappointed  in  my  expectations,  for  my  brother-in-law  had 
really  no  horse  to  spare.  His'eldest  son,  who  was  an  ofiicer 
in  the  reserve,  and  attached  to  the  staff  of  General  von  Goe- 
ben,  mounted  himself  out  of  his  father's  stables,  as  did  two 
other  sons  who  were  both  ofticers,  and  the  father  himself,  who 
was  a  Knight  of  Malta,  went  with  the  armv. 

Whilst  Alfred  staye4  in  Cologne  with  the  Knights  of  Malta, 
I  went  on  to  Bonn,  where  I  arrived  at  three  p.m.  dead-beat. 
It  was  good  luck  that  I  arrived  at  all  that  day,  for  in  Cologne 
I  was  told  that  no  passenger  trains  would  leave  for  several 
days.  Seeing,  however,  a  train  ready  to  start,  and  inquiring 
I  heard  that  it  was  an  extra  train  for  the  Hereditary  Princes 
of  Hohenzollern  and  Weimar."  The  Prince  of  Hohenzollern, 
a  very  agreeable,  unpretending  gentleman,  was  the  innocent 
cause  of  this  war,  as  is  generally  known.  As  I  was  well  ac- 
quainted with  him  he  permitted  very  readily  my  travelling  with 
him,  and  presented  me  to  the  Hereditary  Piince  of  Weimar, 
who  was  going  to  join  the  head-quarters  of  the  Crown  Prmce 
of  Prussia.  The  latter  was  still  a  very  young  gentleman. 
Prince  Plohenzolletn,  who  was  a  colonel,  went  also  to  the 
Crown  Prince. 

On  the  30th  I  received  an  answer  from  Prince  Pless,  telling 
me  to  go  to  President  von  Bernuth  in  Cologne  to  receive  from 
him  a  ticket  of  legitimation,  and  I  started  at  hve  o'clock  p.m., 
accom.panied  by  Prince  Leopold  Salm-Salm,  whom  I  had  seen 
frequently  in  Bonn.  As  no  passenger  train  was  lunning  we 
had  to  go  in  a  transport  train.  I  received  from  the  President 
von  Bernuth  the  first  legitimation  card  issued  in  Cologne  and 
also  the  white  band  with  the  red  cross.  We  returned  cc  Bonn 
at  ten  o'clock,  sitting  with  the  conductor  m  die  caboose  A 
another  transport  train. 

I  had  still  to  accomplish  several  ve.y  difficult  things,  ana 
that  in  a  rather  short  tune,  viz.,  10  procure  a  legitimation  ticket 
for  Miss  Runkel,  ^o  procure  a  horse,  and  lastly  but  by  no 
means  leastly  the  permission  to  take  one  with  me,  and  to  re- 
ceive forage  for  it,  which  was  rather  important.  Having  heard 
from  Prince  Leopold  that  Baron  Oppenheim  in  Colonge  had  a 
horse,  which  he  might  perhaps  be  inclined  to  sell,  I  called  on 
that  gentleman,  but  I  was  disappointed,  as  he  dared  not  sell 
me  the  horse,  because  it  was  rather  unmanageable  and  a  run. 
away 


General  iwi  Steimnetz.  309 

I  went  on  August  i,  to  Coblentz,  where  Mr.  von  Pommer- 
Esche  gave  me  most  readily  a  ticket  of  legitimation  for  Miss 
Runkel.  If  I  bad  intended  to  go  only  as  a  simple  nurse  to 
the  war,  I  might  have  done  so  now  ;  but  that  was  not  my  in- 
tention. I  wanted  to  be  in  a  position  to  do  more  and  to  be 
officially  attached  to  the  staff  of  the  army  like  an  officer. 
Everybody  to  whom  I  spoke  about  it  shrugged  his  shoulders 
and  declared  such  a  thing  to  be  impossible.  It  is  however  my 
belief  that  the  only  way  to  success  is  not  to  believe  in  im- 
possibilities, and  further  it  is  one  of  my  practical  rules,  if  I  wish 
a  thing  always  to  ask  it  directly  from  the  highest  authority. 

The  highes.  person  in  the  army  in  which  Dr.  Busch  was 
surgeon-general  was  General  von  Steinmetz,  its  commander-in- 
chief.  He  had  been  described  to  me  as  an  extremely  strict 
and  rough  man,  of  whom  everybody  was  afraid.  My  experi- 
ence taught  me  that  these  rough  men  are  frequently  very  rea- 
sonable, and  I  was  resolved  to  try  m-y  luck  with  the  dreaded 
general. 

Early  in  the  morning  I  went  to  his  head-quarters,  where  my 
request  io  see  the  general  ]eemed  to  create  quite  a  conster- 
nation. Not  being  frightened  at  all  I  insisted,  and  an  officer, 
though  shaking  his  head  and  shrugging  his  shoulders,  was  in- 
duced to  take  in  mj-  card,  and  co  the  surprise  of  everybody  I 
was  admitted 

The  commander  di  the  Fir;^t  Army,  General  von  Steinmetz, 
was  a  very  kind  little  man  with  snow  white  hair,  with  large 
blue  eyes,  and  a  look  like  that  Oi  the  eagle.  When  we  sat 
down  i  commenced  to  explain  what  I  wished,  namely  to  be 
]jermitted  to  accompany  the  staff  on  horseback  and  to  be  al- 
lowed forage  and  quarters  for  my  horse  and  myself.  I  of  course 
supported  my  rather  extraordinary  request — almost  unheard 
of  in  a  Prussian  army — with  all  reasons  and  statements  at  my 
disposition,  and  in  the  most  wonderfully  broken  German.  The 
general  did  not  say  a  word,  but  .uddenly  rose  and  rang  the 
bell, — not  to  show  me  out  as  I  leared  for  a  moment,  but  to 
send  for  his  quarterma.ler- general.  When  that  officer  ap- 
peared the  general  asked  whether  it  was  possible  to  grant  my 
request,  and  it  was  granted  on  the  officer's  declaration  that  it 
certainly  could  be  done  if  his  Excellency  would  order  it. 

Well,  I  had  ray  permission,  but  I  had  still  no  horse,  and  there 
was  not  to  be  had  a  saddle-horse  in  the  whole  city. .  The  pro- 


310  Ten  Years  of  my  Life. 

prietor  of  the  Triersche  Hof  bad  however  a  doiible-pony,  which 
I  thought  might  do,  though  he  never  had  a  saddle  on  his  back. 
Mr.  Mars  was  persuaded  to  part  with  it  for  two  hundred 
thalers. 

This  care  off  my  mind  I  left  Coblentz  at  three  o'clock  with 
Miss  liunkel  and  my  pony,  and  was  very  glad  to  find  in  the 
train  Professor  Busch.  At  six  o'clock  we  arrived  at  the  Vic- 
toria Hotel  in  Bingen,  where  we  stayed  the  night. 

Next  morning  we  left  at  ten  o'clock  a.m.,  and  arrived  at 
four  o'clock  in  Birkenfield,  a  little  quaint  place  belonging  to 
the  Duchy  of  Oldenburg.  From  there  we  went  straight  to  Her- 
meskeil,  Dr.  Busch  mounted  on  his  beautiful  mare  '  Nornia/ 
and  I  very  proudly  on  my  double-pony.  Now  I  have  ridden 
all  sorts  of  horses  in  many  different  countries,  and  had  the  re- 
putation of  being  rather  at  home  in  my  saddle  ;  but  this  queer 
pony  seemed  to  despise  all  my  equestrian  art,  and  to  have  de- 
cided on  my  humiliation  He  plunged  and  kicked  in  the 
most  atrocious  manner  to  get  rid  of  the  strange  thing  on  his 
back.  Not  succeeding  in  it,  however,  he  was  struck  with  a 
bright  idea  on  seeing  a  very  convenient  deep  ditch.  He 
jumped  into  it  with  a  sudden  determination,  rolling  over  in  de- 
light, and  propelling  me  on  to  the  opposite  side,  where  I  per- 
formed sundry  acrobat  movements  to  the  astonishment  of  the 
spectators.  Much  satisfied  with  his  success,  the  pony  got  up 
and  shovv^ed  his  exultation  at  my  deieat  by  jumping  and  kick- 
ing like  mad.  He  was,  however,  secured,  and  when  I  got  up- 
on his  back  again  he  behaved  henceforth  quite  reasonably, 
kicking  only  once- the  Old  Schiinmcl  o.  Dr.  Busch  ridden  by 
his  servant. 

The  whole  village  of  Hermeskeil  was  filled  with  troops,  but 
we  succeeded  in  rinding  a  room  which  I  shared  with  Miss 
E-unkel.  Everybody  was  much  excited,  for  th^  repor:  cir- 
culated that  the  French  had  taken  Saarbruck. 

We  had  been  ordered  to  go  to  Treves,  where-  we  should 
find  the  head-quarters  of  General  von  Steinmetz  When  we 
arrived  at  6  o'clock  p.m.  in  that  old  city  we  were  greatly  dis- 
appointed on  hearing  that  the  general  had  left,  and  nobody 
could  tell  where  he  was.  Dr  Busch  sent  out  telegraphic  des- 
patches in  all  directions  to  find  out  the  general's  headquarters, 
but  we  had  to  go  to  bed  without  being  the  wiser. 

In  the  night  at  2  o'clock  a.m.,  somebody  knocked  against 


German  Successes.  811 

my  door.  I  was  rather  freightened,  for  I  thought  the  French 
were  in  the  city ;  but  it  was  Prince  Leopold,  my  nephew,  who 
had  arrived  from  General  Steinmetz's  head-quarters,  and  thus 
relieved  me  much. 

Next  morning  at  five  o'clock  we  left  per  rail  for  Saarlouis, 
a  little  fortress  near  the  French  frontier.  It  was  August  4, 
and  we  found  the  people  much  excited  and  very  busy,  for  the 
French  were  expected  every  moment  to  appear  before  the 
fortress. 

While  waiting  near  the  station  I  saw  two  nice  plump  ducks 
waddling  most  incautiously  before  my  eyes,  and  anticipating 
the  scarcity  of  victuals  always  to  be  found  where  large  masses 
of  troops  are  collected,  and  remembering  my  old  campaign 
principle  never  to  be  short  of  provisions,  I  took  information, 
most  dangerous  for  the  welfare  of  the  said  ducklings,  and  ac- 
quired them  from  the  owner  by  means  of  persuasive  words  and 
silver,  and  the  skilfully  tlirown-out  suggestion  that  the  expected 
French  were  extremely  fond  of  fowl. 

We  rode  from  Saarlouis  to  Hensweiler  in  company  with  my 
nephew,  who  left  us  here  for  the  head-quarters  of  General  von 
Goeben.  We  managed  to  dine  in  that  village,  and  then  con- 
tinued our'  march  to  Tholey  the  head-quarters  of  General 
Steinmetz,  who  received  us  very  kindly.  The  threatening 
movement  of  the  French  against  Saarbruck  had  compelled  him 
to  advance  at  once,  and  that  was  the  reason  why  we  did  not 
find  him  in  Treves.  After  much  trouble  we  found  a  room  in 
the  house  of  a  notary,  whose  wife  gave  us  a  supper  for  which 
Dr.  Busch  paid  amply  by  saving  her  dangerously  ill  baby.  As 
there  was  only  one  bed  in  the  room  we  divided  its  contents. 
Miss  Runkel  remaining  in  the  bed  and  I  establishing  myself 
on  the  floor. 

Next  day  the  news  of  the  battle  of  Weissenburg  was  received, 
and  on  the  following  arrived  the  still  more  glorious  of  Worth, 
which  caused  much  rejoicing. 

On  Saturday  the  6th,  we  were  for  the  first  time  billeted  in 
a  large  beer  brewery  in  Hensweiler,  where  Prince  Adalbert  of 
Prussia  was  also  quartered.  The  Prince  had  arrived  the  day 
before  in  Tholey,  where  I  had  paid  him  a  visit  which  he  re- 
turned. His  Royal  Highness  was  the  Admiral  of  the  Prussian 
fleet,  but  as  he  liked  to  see  the  fighting  he  joined  the  army, 
as  he  did  in   i366,  where  an  aide-de-camp  was  killed  at  his 


312  Ten   Years  of  my  Life. 

The  Prince  was,  however,'  not  only  a  lover  of  good  fighting, 
he  appreciated  good  eating  also  ;and,  by  no  means  willing  to 
starve  or  to  feast  only  on  French  frogs,  he  had  taken  with  him 
his  cQok  and  a  large  kitchen  and  provision-fourgeon.  But 
alas,  the  kitchen  batteries  did  not  move  as  fast  as  the  rest  of 
the  Prussian  batteries,  and  had  not  arrived  in  Hensweiler,  to 
the  vexation  of  the  Prince  and  us  also,  for  he  had  invited  our 
sanitary  party  to  dine  with  him.  As  a  dinner  without  any- 
thing to  eat  is  still  worse  than  Hamlet  without  Hamlet,  I  sug- 
gested to  the  Prince  a  picnic  dinner,  priding  myself  on  my 
two  ducklings,  which  the  notary's  wife  in  Tholey  had  roasted 
for  me  the  day  before. 

It  seemed,  however,  as  if  the  animal  creation  had  contrived 
to  drive  out  my  conceit ;  my  pony  had  commenced  by  humbl- 
ing me,  and  now  my  ducklings  put  me  to  shame ;  instead  of 
being  ducklings  they  proved  to  be  patriarchs  of  their  tribe, 
and  to  judge  from  their  toughness  they  must  have  been  the 
very  duck  couple  which  Noah  took  into  his  ark.  The  gallant 
Prince  tried  in  vain  the  merit  of  his  teeth — whether  genuine 
Hohenzollerns  or  Abbots  I  do  not  know — when  our  painful 
exertions  were  interrupted  by  a  sound  I  knew  only  two  well, 
the  booming  of  guns  some  miles  off.  The  Prince,  who  was 
somewhat  deaf,  as  an  admiral  generally  is,  would  not  believe 
in  a  cannonade,  and  said  that  the  sound  came  from  the  cellar 
of  the  brewery  where  the  empty  barrels  were  having  a  ball. 
Everybody  knows  now  that  the  glorious  battle  of  Spichern  was 
fought  on  that  day,  prematurely  brought  about  by  accident, 
spoiling  the  programme  of  Moltke,  who  had  planned  it  for  the 
next  day. 

Next  morning  we  left  at  eight  o'clock  for  Saa/bruck,  where 
we  arrived  at  noon.  The  scenes  there  have  been  described 
by  hundreds  of  able  pens,  and  will  still  be  remembered  by 
almost  everyone,  therefore  I  need  not  describe  them,  and  shall 
restrict  myself  to  my  particular  department. 

Riding  into  the  yard  of  an  inn  I  had  the  pleasure  of  meet- 
ing Corvin,  who  had  arrived  before  me.  He  went  off  to  the 
battlefield,  and  I  attended  to  my  duties  with  Dr.  Busch,  with- 
out changing  my  riding  dress.  We  visited  at  once  nearly  aU 
the  greater  hospitals ;  but  in  fact  the  whole  town  vvas  changed 
into  a  hospital,  and  wounded  soldiers  were  lying  in  every  yard, 
ill  eyery  house.     The  preparations  were  inadequate  to  the  great 


Famine.  813 

quantity  of  people  who  required  immediate  help,  and  though 
the  many  surgeons  did  their  utmost  their  number  was  insigni- 
ficant, and  the  whole  sanitary  machinery  still  disorganised. 

The  inhabitants  of  Saarbruck  did  all  they  could,  but  the 
immense  number  of  troops  in  and  around  that  town  had  nearly 
eaten  up  all  their  provisions,  and  food  of  any  kind,  even  bread, 
was  becoming  very  scarce.  The  wounded  suffered  most  for 
want  of  food,  for  they  could  not  look  about  for  it  themselves, 
and  many  of  them  were  utterly  forgotten  and  in  a  state  of  star- 
vation. 

Seeing  that  my  assistance  as  a  nurse  was  but  of  little  avail, 
and  that  I  could  do  more  good  in  another  manner,  I  made  it 
my  especial  business  to  hunt  for  provisions.  I  applied  at 
once  to  the  Johanniters,  but  their  store-rooms  were  still  empty, 
though  plenty  of  supplies  were  on  the  road,  and  expected  to 
arrive  any  moment.  1  therefore  went  to  private  persons  and 
houses,  and  had  tolerably  good  success. 

It  was  very  natural  that  our  own  soldiers  had  the  first  claim 
to  our  assistance,  but  there  were  also  in  the  town  a  great  num- 
ber of  French  prisoners  and  wounded  who  needed  it  just  as 
much.  Penned  up  in  a  yard  were  about  four  hundred  of  them, 
ofticers  and  men,  who  had  eaten  nothing  for  about  two  days, 
and  who  were  nearly  mad  with  hunger. 

Some  people  of  Saarbruck  and  especially  ladies  showed  their 
sympathy  with  the  French  in  a  rather  injudicious  manner; 
and,  as  caution  was  much  required,  the  enemy  being  so  near, 
orders  had  been  given  to  prevent  the  communication  of  these 
S}'mpathisers  with  the  French  prisoners.  When  therefore  a 
number  of  ladies  arrived  with  a  great  quantity  of  bread  for 
them,  they  were  refused  admittance.  I  fortunately  arrived  at 
that  time,  and  seeing  that  the  distressing  state  of  the  poor 
French  made  delay  very  cruel  and  fatal,  I  used  my  authority 
and  had  the  bread  distributed  amongst  them.  I  shall  never 
forget  that  scene  ;  I  had  never  seen  the  like  before.  With 
eyes  starting  out  of  their  sockets,  and  with  trembling  hands  the 
bread  was  snatched  from  us  and  devoured  with  an  avidity 
which  was  quite  distressing  to  look  at. 

Those  wounded  who  had  found  a  place  in  hospitals  or  bar- 
racks were  bedded  well  enough,  but  hundreds  of  others  who 
had  been  brought  into  poor  private  houses  or  sheds,  were 
lying  on  the  bare  floor  not  rarely  even  without  a  little  straw. 


^14;  Ten   Years  of  my  Life. 


The  doctors  coniDlained  thq.t  the  wounded  were  dvinsr  under 
iheir  hands  for  want  of  stimufents  and  food  and  other  neces- 
sary things.  Under  these  circumstances  I  remembered  an 
offer  made  to  me  when  1  was  last  in  Cologne,  trying  to  buy  a 
horse  from  Baron  Edward  Op])enheim,  the  most  wealthy 
banker  of  that  city.  •  He  was  a  member  of  the  central  com- 
mittee of  the  association,  formed  for  the  assistance  of  the  sol- 
diers in  the  field.  Hearing  that  I  was  going  with  the  Surgeon- 
General  of  the  Sth  Army  Corps,  he  invited  me  to  apply  at 
once  to  him  if  I  was  in  want  of  anything  for  the  wounded.  I 
therefore  telegraphed  to  him  for  25c  hair  mattresses,  and  in 
an  incredibly  short  time,  sent  by  an  extra  train,  they  arrived, 
with  many  other  useful  things,  for  which,  as  I  heard  afterwards, 
the  Baron  paid  out  of  his  own  pocket. 

August  8  was  a  busy  day,  for  from  the  morning  until  ten 
o'clock  at  night  I  was  dressing  wounds,'  and  comforting  and 
nursing  the  dying.  I  am  not  very  sentimental,  but  the  sights 
I  saw  and  the  scenes  1  witnessed,  v/ould  have  pressed  tears 
out  of  a  stone.  Habit,  however,  soon  blunted  the  edge  of  this 
feeling  sufficiently  not  to  interfere  with  my  duty;  had  this  not 
been  the  case  I  could  not  have  endured  it  three  days. 

On  the  9th,  I  dressed  the  wounds  of  twenty  men,  whom  I 
found  quite  alone,  without  a  doctor  or  a  nurse,  in  the  citizens' 
casino.  In  the  morning  my  brother-in-law,  Prince  Alfred, 
arrived,  and  I  brought  him  to  the  Hotel  zur  Post,  where  we 
were  quartered,  until  me  moved  a  short  time  after  to  a  very 
comfortable  private  house  at  the  Schlossplatz. 

After  dinner  I  rode  over  with  Dr.  Busch  to  the  village  of 
Spichern  to  visit  the  wounded  Frenchmen,  of  whom  we  found 
one  hundred  and  eighty,  destitute  of  everything.  We  returned 
to  Saarbruck,  riding  over  the  battlefield  of  the  sixth,  and 
looked  with  astonishment  at  the  bastionlike  projecting  steep, 
and  high  hill  which  our  brave  soldiers  had  scaled  after  a  five 
times  renewed  attack,  led  by  the  renowed  fortieth  regiment,  of 
whom  two  companies  held  at  bay  for  several  hours  twenty 
thousand  French  on  August  4. 

Most  of  the  dead  had  been  buried  already,  and  burying  was 
still  going  on.  The  dead  were  much  disfigured,  with  the 
exception  of  a  poor  boy,  whose  face  had  a  happy,  smiling 
expression  as  if  he  was  sleeping  and  had  a  most  happy  dream  ; 
his  eyes  were  closed  and  his  parted  lips  showed  two  rows  of 
pearly  teeth. 


Blffxulties  of  Transport.  315 

Returned  to  Saarbrucken  I  took  at  once  possession  of  an 
empty  waggon  I  encountered  in  the  street,  and  drove  vviih  it 
to  the  depot  of  the  Johnniters,  which  was  well  filled  now  with 
X)lenty  of  provisions.  The  principal  difficulty  arose  now  from 
the  scarcity  of  means  of  transportation,  for  horses,  cars,  wag- 
gons, and  men  were  very  rare.  My  waggon  was  soon  filled 
and  Miss  Runkel  drove  with  it  to  Spichern,  to  distribute  the 
most  welcome  supplies  amongst  the  French  wounded,  whilst  I 
visited  the  hospitals. 

I  was  much  astonished  to  find  nowhere  any  of  the  nuns  or 
sisters  of  mercy  from  whose  assistance  we  expected  so  much. 
The  fact  is  they  were  very  slow  in  coming  and  much  needed. 
I  wrote  down  what  was  wanted  in  the  different  places,  and 
took  care  myself  that  the  things  were  procured  and  delivered 
into  the  right  hands.  Where  things  were  required  which  were 
not  to  be  found  in  the  depots  I  gave  money  to  buy  tliem. 

His  Majesty  the  King,  Count  Bismarck,  and  General  Moltke 
arrived  in  the  evening,  and  my  brother-in-law  and  his  son 
Leopold,  who  had  accompanied  us  from  Spichern,  paid  at 
once  their  respects  to  the  King. 

I  sent  next  morning  a  note  to  Prince  Radzivil,  to  come  and 
see  me,  but  instead  of  him  another  aide  of  the  King,  Count 
Waldersee,  the  brother  of  our  colonel,  came,  and  brought  me, 
from  the  King,  Count  Bismarck,  and  the  aid-decamp,  about 
1 20  thalers  in  gold,  to  be  applied  to  the  benefit  of  the  wounded. 

On  August  II,  I  was  all  the  morning  with  the  professor  in 
the  hospitals  assisting  him  in  some  wonderful  operations.  As 
many  of  the  wounded  in  the  citizens'  casino  required  good  and 
strong  beef  soup,  and  other  strengthening  food,  and  Dr.  Busch 
said,  '  they  must  have  such  things  or  die,'  I  went  to  the  kitchen 
of  the  King  and  coaxed  the  head  cc>ok,  who  at  once  promised 
to  attend  to  my  wishes,  and  after  a  time  I  went  over  with  a 
soldier  carrying  some  large  pails,  which  the  brave  chief  of  the 
royal  kitchen  batteries  filled  with  delicious  broth,  fortified  by 
good  beef  merged  in  it.  As  nobody  was  at  hand  to  carry  it, 
and  the  royal  head-quarters  were  not  far  across  the  street  from 
the  casino,  I  carried  two  of  the  pails  myself.  Just  when  I 
was  crossing  the  street,  a  carriage  swept  round  the  corner  with 
His  Maiesty  the  King  in  it.  Though  not  ashamed  of  my 
work  1  felt  rather  embarrassed  at  being  caught  thus,  and  put 
the  pails  down  behind  me,  screening  them  with  my  dress,  when 


ol6  Ten   Years  of  my  Life. 

the  King,  who  bad  seen  ipe,  stopped  the  carriage  and  des- 
cended. He  came  towards  me,  grasped  my  hand,  and  said 
very  kind  words  which  I  shall  never  forget.  Smilingly  look- 
ing around  me  to  discover  the  cause  of  my  embarrassment  he 
saw  my  two  pails,  and  when  I  told  him  that  I  had  stolen  them 
from  his  kitchen  for  his  dying  brave  soldiers,  the  expression  of 
his  face  became  still  kinder,  and  he  said  that  I  had  done  quite 
right,  and  that  I  was  at  liberty  to  rob  his  kitchen  to  my  heart's 
content. 

On  August  12  Dr.  Busch  and  mvself  drove  to  the  convent 
of  Neudorf,  where  thirty  severely  wounded  men  w^re  nursed 
by  the  nuns,  w^ho  gave  me  a  long  list  of  things  required.  I 
sent  them  next  day  forty  mattresses  and  a  whole  waggonful  of 
provisions. 

When  we  went  again  to  Neudorf  Professor  Eusch  made  some 
operations,  in  which  he  was  assisted  by  some  Wurtembergian 
medical  students,  who  were  however  not  sufficiently  used  to 
the  horrors  they  saw  around  them  ;  for  when  one  of  them  as- 
sisted the  Professor  in  the  resection  of  an  elbow,  his  hand 
trembled  so  much  that  Dr.  Busch  put  him  impatiently  aside, 
and  requested  me  to  assist  him,  which  I  did  with  a  steady  hand 
and  to  his  satisfoction. 

Thus  I  was  busy  from  the  morning  to  the  night  and  Miss 
Runkel  assisted  me  faithfully.  We  went  several  times  to 
Spichern,  where  we  tound  the  French  wounded  lying  on  straw 
sacks  placed  on  the  ground  in  stal)les,  which  made  us  very 
angry  with  the  doctors,  who  had  been  too  lazy  to  send  to 
Saarbrucken  for  bedsteads.  Dr.  Busch  took  care  that  thev 
were  sent. 

To  the  many  wounded  were  soon  added  a  number  of  sol- 
diers suftering  from  a  dangerous  dysentery,  of  which  many  died 
in  a  few  hours. 

This  malady  seems  always  to  prevail  in  armies  in  the  field, 
and  we  had  it  also  in  America. 

I  had  caught  a  very  severe  cold  and  had  to  remain  two  days 
in  bed  with  a  very  painful  swollen  face,  which  made  me  very 
impatient  as  it  prevented  me  from  attending  to  my  duty. 
'J'hough  there  was  plenty  for  me  to  do  everywhere,  the  longing 
to  go  nearer  to  the  front,  in  order  to  be  nearer  to  Felix,  be- 
came so  strong  that  I  made  up  my  mind  to  go  alone,  if  Profes- 
sor Busch  should  be  retained  much  longer  in  Saarbrucken.     I 


A  Fearful  Bream.  317 

made  inquiries  about  the  trains  going  to  Metz,  where  we  heard 
that  fighting  was  going  on  ;  but  the  information  I  received  was 
very  unsatisfactory,  as  I  was  told  it  would  require  eight  days 
to  go  to  Nancy. 

On  August  iS,  the  day  of  the  battle  of  Gravelottee — of 
which  we  then  of  course  knew  nothing — my  feeling  of  dread 
became  alarmingly  oppressive,  for  I  had  had  the  most  fearful 
dreams  about  battles,  and  felt  almost  sure  that  something  had 
happened  to  my  husband.  Until  the  20th,  we  heard  in 
Saarbrucken  only  vague  rumours,  but  when  I  went  on  that 
day  with  Dr.  Busch  to  Saarlouis,  where  we  had  to  wait  at  the 
station*  several  hours,  many  trains  with  wounded  arrived  from 
the  battlefields  near  Metz.  There  I  saw  a  wounded  soldier 
from  the  Augusta  regiment  ;  he  belonged  to  the  battalion  of 
my  husband,  and  totd  me  that  they  had  been  in  the  battle  of 
the  1 3th  and  behaved  extremely  bravely,  but  he  pretended  not 
to  know  whether  Felix  was  wounded.  I  however  felt  an  in- 
discribable  anguish,  and  when  we  late  in  the  evening  returned 
to  Saarbrucken,  and  I  went  to  bed,  I  saw  in  a  half-awake 
vision,  poor  Felix  dead  at  my  side,  with  a  fearfully  still,  pale 
face. 

Early  in  the  morning  on  August  21,  I  called  on  j\Irs.  von 
Berenhorst,  who  was  in  Saarbrucken  to  nurse  her  brother, 
Major  von  Nettlebeck.  She  had  also  a  son  in  the  troops  be- 
fore Metz,  of  whom  she  heard  that  he  was  wounded,  and  she 
was  going  to  the  front  with  us,  for  at  last  we  were  ready  to 
start. 

When  I  was  about  leaving  my  quarters  Professor  Busch  came 
and  told  me  that  my  poor  husband  was  killed  !  He  was  mor- 
tally wounded  on  the  18th  and  died  after  three  hours.  Poor 
little  Prince  Florentine  was  dead  also. 

I  shall  not  attempt  to  describe  my  feelings,  for  words  would 
be  insufficient.  All  I  can  say  is  that  I  wished  to  be  dead  also, 
for  I  felt  utterly  alone  and  forsaken,  and  life  a  burden.  I  had, 
however,  to  fulfil  a  sacred  duty,  a  promise  made  long  ago  in 
America,  and  repeated  solemnly  when  my  husband  left  me. 
He  wished  that  in  case  he  should  be  killed  I  should  bring  his 
body  to  Anholt,  and  have  it  buried  at  the  side  of  his  father 
and  mother. 

In  Saarbrucken  I  found  Lieutenant  von  Arnim,  who  was 
severely  wounded,  and  also  the  colour-sergeant  of  Felix's  bat- 


818  Ten   Years  of  my  Life. 

talion  ;  from  them  and  from  others  afterwards  I  heard  the 
details  of  his  glorious  d^ath.  -He  could  not  die  otherwise,  and 
nothwithstanding  my  misery  I  felt  proud  of  him. 

When  the  Prussian  Guards  attacked  the  strong  position  of 
the  French  at  St.  Privat,  my  husband  at  the  head  of  his  brave 
fusileers  remained  on  horseback,  a  convenient  target.  A  shot 
struck  his  horse,  which  became  unmanageable  and  ran  away 
towards  the  French.  My  husband  succeed  in  getting  off  its 
back,  and  in  joining  his  troops  on  foot,  when  a  bullet  broke 
his  right  arm.  He  would  not  leave  the  batdefield,  but  took 
his  sword  in  his  left  hand.  Thus  he  remained  twenty  minutes, 
when  a  second  bullet  pierced  his  breast,  and  a  third  struck  his 

Ipor 

Poor  Florentine  had  been  killed  already  at  the  first  volley 
by  a  shot  in  his  head.  He  died  on  the  spot.  Count  Walder- 
see  was  wounded  about  the  same  time  as  Felix  by  a  shot  in 
his  body.  He  was  carried  back,  but  on  hearing  that  my  hus- 
band was  lying  wounded  on  the  field,  he  gave  orders  to  carry 
him  to  the  rear.  Volunteers  were  called  out  for  that  purpose. 
When  they  laid  Salm  down  for  a  moment,  a  shot  struck  the 
man  who  volunteered  first  to  carry  him.  My  husband  ordered 
them  to  remove  the  waterproof  in  which  he  was  wrapped,  and 
to  cover  with  it  the  poor  honest  soldier. 

Salm's  last  moments  were  described  to  me  in  a  letter,  which 

I  received   from   the   reverend  priest   who  attended  him.     I 

shall  give  this  description  : — 

'Doncourt,  August  21,  1870. 

'On  the  iSth  August,  in  the  afternoon,  the  second  division  of  the 
Guards,  to  which  I  have  the  honour  to  belong  as  Catholic  division  chap- 
lain, entered  into  the  battle  against  the  strongly  fortified  Saint  Marie 
aux  Chenes  and  Saint  Privat  la  Montague.  About  seven  o'clock,  your  hus- 
band, severely  wounded,  was  brought  to  the  Verbandplatz.  A  bullet  had 
pierced  his  breast  and  gone  out  at  his  back,  a  second  one  had  pierced  his 
arm,  and  a  spent  bullet  contused  his  leg.  Insupportable  pain  made  him 
groan.  Taking  hold  of  my  hand,  he  requested  me  to  administer  to  him 
the  last  comforts  of  our  holy  religion.  The  doctor  had  given  him  before  a 
dose  of  opium.  Then  I  administered  to  him  absolution  and  the  holy  oint- 
ment ;  he  requested  to  be  laid  in  a  bed  ;  his  servant  stood  weeping  at  his 
litter.  In  the  village  St.  Ail,  which  was  forsaken  by  its  inhabitants,  all 
doors  were  locked.  They  were  opened  with  axes  and  crowbars.  I  found 
a  bed,  and  we  carried  there  the  severely  wounded  man,  who,  in  dyings 
still  pressed  to  his  heart  the  covering  of  his  colours.  He  requested  me  not 
to  leave  him,  and  I  readily  promised  it.  We  cut  oiif  from  his  body  his  uni- 
form, to  be  able  to  dress  his  wounds  the  better.     He  asked  for  chlorofcvm, 


Felix  and  Florentine  Killed.         .        319 

but  the  doctor  thought  hh-nself  obliged  to  refuse,  and  on  my  soothing  words 
he  suppressed  his  pain.  He  complained  of  burning  thirst  ;  there  was  no 
water  in  the  village.  I  gave  him  my  field  flask  with  red  wine,  which  he 
emptied  eagerly.  To  his  faithful  servant  he  handed  his  money  and  his 
watch,  to  transmit  to  your  Highness.  A  doctor  came.  It  was  dark  ;  we 
had  no  candle.  I  searched  all  the  dwellings,  and  at  last  got  from  a  soldier 
a  little  end  of  a  candle.  The  wound  was  examined,  newly  cooled.  The 
opiate  commenced  to  have  effect,  and  he  became  somewhat  calmer.  He 
asked  me  how  his  nephew  had  died  ;  he  had  receivee  a  bullet  in  his  head. 
Then  he  caught  my  hands,  and  entreated  of  me  to  write  to  your  Highness, 
and  to  support  him  in  the  hour  of  death.  Whilst  he  was  sleeping  I  was 
again  called  off  to  the  Verbandplatz,  where  the  dying  wanted  my  assistance. 
I  returned  as  'soon  as  possible  ;  he  was  a  corpse.  I  gave  his  pocket-book  to 
his  servant,  and  directed  his  notice  expressly  to  a  paper  contained  in  it,  which 
was  the  acknowledgment  of  a  banker,  stating  that  the  Prince  had  deposited 
with  him  about  9,000  thalers.  A  soldier  brought  the  revolver  of  your  hus 
band  tome  in  the  horse-statle,  where  I  slept  that  night  ;  the  souvenir  of 
iVIaximilian  of  Mexico  I  gave,  on  the  19th,  likewise  to  his  servant,  and  al- 
io his  sword  (if  I  am  not  mistaken,  without  scabbard.)  The  sword  of  the 
young  prince  has  been  taken  care  of  by  the  division.  I  also  ordered  the 
servant  to  draw  off  the  rings  from  the  corpse,  and  to  deliver  them  to  your 
Highness.  I  think  there  were  three  of  them.  He  died  as  a  Christian  at 
peace  with  God,  as  a  hero  on  the  field  of  honour.  The  last  question  he 
isked  me  was  about  the  state  of  the  battle.  When  I  told  him  that  the 
inemy  retreated  slowly,  his  face  brightened,  and  he  thanked  God.  "I 
shall  die,  and  am  willing  to  die  ;  only  procure  me  some  cliloroform  and 
:omfort  my  wife."      These  are  the   last    words  I  heard  from  his  paie 


.ips. 


*Parmet, 
'Division-Chaplain  vSecond  Guard  Division. 


My  husband's  faitliful  servant  wrote  to  me  as  follows  : — 

'When  we,  on  the  i8th,  at  four  o'clock  p.m.,  became  engaged,  the  bul- 
.ets  whistled  about  my  head,  so  that  we  thought  nobody  would  remain 
ilive.  We  had  scarcely  been  under  fire,  when  Prince  Florentine  fell,  the 
second  or  third  man,  by  a  shot  through  his  mouth,  and  was  dead  at  onco 
.vithout  pain.  Half  an  hour  later,  my  good  comrade,  our  other  servant 
Klein,  was  killed  also  on  the  spot.  Immediately  afterwards  a  bullet 
grazed  my  thigh,  which  did  not  do  any  harm,  only  hurt  somewhat.  And 
vvhen  we  had  been  about  an  hour  and  a  quarter  under  fire,  somebody  called 
jut,  '  His  Highness  is  wounded.'  I  went  at  once  with  the  horse  I  still  had 
CO  the  spot  ;  there  I  cried  aloud  when  I  saw  my  good  master  so  severely 
wounded.  I  gave  my  horse  to  some  other  man,  who  was  slightly  wounded, 
and  assisted  in  carrying  him,  and  urged  the  others  on  till  we  came  out  of 
die  fire.  When  we  were  out  of  it  we  put  him  on  a  cart  and  brought  him 
to  the  Verbandplatz,  and  then  I  ran  to  fetch  the  doctor,  and  whilst  his 
wounds  were  being  dressed  I  told  the  chaplain,  v/ho  administered  to  him 
the  sacraments.  Then  we  carried  him  to  the  village,  and  laid  him  on  a 
bed,     I  nursed  him  as  well  as  I  could,  and  believed  he  would  recover,  for 


320  Ten  Years  of  viy  Life. 

the  doctor  (I  suppose,  to  comfort  him)  said  the  bullet  had  passed  under 
the  ribs  and  was  not  fatal  ;  but  lie  said  in  two  hours,  "  I  must  die  ;"  and 
then  I  was  alone  with  him,  and  helold  me  that  he  received  the  shot  through 
his  arm  twenty  minutes  before  that  through  his  breast,  but  for  that  wound 
he  would  not  leave  his  troops  ;  and  the  sword  and  torn  coat  I  should  give 
to  his  brother  as  a  keepsake  ;  but  I  was  not  able  to  do  so,  as  the  things  are 
kept  here,  and  will  be  sent  soon,  as  I  was  told.  And  several  time  he  asked 
whether  we  had  conquered  ;  and  I  could  tell  him  still  that  ours  were  vic- 
torious. I  was  to  greet  the  officers  of  our  regiment,  and  many  times  his 
brother.  This  he  has  repeated  to  me  several  times  ;  and  his  wife  and  all 
relatives  ;  and  several  times  he  inquired  after  little  Prince  Florentine  ;  he 
could  not  speak  much  for  pain.  Then  he  said  I  should  have  a  coffin  made 
and  a  cross  on  it  with  his  name,  which  I  have  done,  but  with  great  trouble, 
as  there  were  no  people  in  the  village,  but  three  soldiers  have  constructed 
one.  Thus  he  died  quietly  shortly  before  eleven  o'clock.  I  called  to  him 
the  names  Jesus,  Marie,  and  Joseph,  and  have  prayed  for  him.  And  then 
I  remained  with  him  until  he  was  buried,  when  his  Highness  Prince  Leo- 
pold was  present  also.  . 

*JOS.  KOESTER.' 

The  servant,  when  questioned  afterwards  relative  to  the 
paper  contained  in  the  Prince's  pocket-book,  which  had  been 
read  by  the  chaplain,  wrote  about  it  as  follows  :  '  At  the  funeral 
of  his  Highness,  which  was  attended  by  the  Hereditary  Prince 
Leopold,  I  trasmitted  to  the  latter  a  portemonnaie  and  pocket- 
book,  remarking  that  in  the  letter  was  contained  a  paper  re- 
commended to  me  as  being  of  great  importance.  The  Prince 
received  these  objects,  and  gave  me  a  gratification.  Prince 
Lepold  will  certainly  remember  it,  for  he  has  looked  into  the 
paper,  and  has  read  it  doubtlessly.'  Prince  Leopold  does  not 
remember  anything  about  such  a  paper,  and  it  has  disap])eared 
altogether.  The  whole  affair  is  a  mystery  to  me,  as  I  really 
do  not  know  from  whom  poor  Salm  could  have  received  a  sum 
so  considerable  for  our  circumstances. 

The  sacred  duty  I  had  to  accomplish  sustained  me  and  pre- 
vented me  giving  way  to  my  grief,  blunting  thus  its  too  keen 
edge,  for  it  required  all  my  energy.  The  knights  of  St.  John, 
the  officers,  and  my  brother-in-law  Ptince  Alfred,  all  tried  to 
dissuade  me  from  carrying  out  my  purpose,  assuring  me  that 
it  would  be  impossible  in  the  present  moment,  and  suggested 
that  I  might  at  least  wait  some  time,  or  still  better  until  after 
the  war.  All  of  them  remonstrated  in  vain  ;  I  would  have 
gone  to  the  grave  of  my  poor  Felix,  if  I  had  had  to  walk  on 
ioot  all  the  way 


Going  on  a  Sad  Errand.  821 

We  started  at  midnight.  Miss  Runkel  was  with  me,  and 
also  ]\Irs.  vun  Berenhorst,  who  did  not  know  that  her  son  was 
killed,  believing  him  only  to  be  wounded. 

At  Forbach  we  went  in  an  excellently  well-arranged  hospital 
train  sent  from  Wurtemberg,  and  slept  in  beds,  of  which  there 
were  two  hundred  in  the  train  for  severely  wounded,  besides 
accommodation  for  fifty  more  slightly  wounded. 

Prince  Alfred,  not  having  found  me  in  Saarbrucken,  arrived 
just  before  we  started  from  Forbach,  and  as  he  did  not  succeed 
in  detaining  me,  he  resolved  to  accompany  and  assist  me. 

We  arrived  on  the  23rd  in  Remilly,  which  was  crowded  to 
excess  with  troops  and  with  wounded,  and  we  could  not  find 
any  other  shelter  for  the  night  than  in  a  railroad  car,  in  which 
not  only  cattle,  but  also  sick  soldiers,  had  been  conveyed,  and 
which  was  in  a  most  horridly  filthy  state.  We  succeeded,  how- 
ever, in  procuring  some  mattresses,  with  which  we  covered  the 
bottom  of  the  waggon.  In  this  abominable  place  Prince 
Alfred,  Professor  Busch,  Dr.  von  Kuhlewetter,  Mrs.  von 
Berenhorst,  Miss  Runkel  and  myself,  and  the  old  valet-de- 
chambre  of  Alfred,  passed  the  night  ! 

The  next  night  we  remained  in  a  little  chateau,  near  Covny, 
belonging  to  a  Madame  de  Wendel,  and  on  the  25th  we 
arrived  in  Ars-sur-Moselle,  where  I  obtained  a  room  in  the 
house  of  the  apothecary,  and  at  once  ordered  zinc  coffins  to  be 
made.  The  man  who  first  had  accepted  the  order,  bribed  by 
the  price  offered,  became  however  afraid  after  reflection,  and 
refused  to  attend  to  it,  fearing  that  the  French,  if  they  returned, 
as  was  confidently  expected,  would  hang  him,  because  he  had 
made  coftins  for  Prussian  officers.  I  was  therefore  obliged  to 
use  compulsion,  to  remain  in  '"is  workshop  and  watch  him 
whilst  he  unwillingly  made  the  coffins  for  my  dear  Felix  and 
Florentine,  which  was  indeed  a  very  melancholy  task. 

Professor  Busch  was  quartered  in  a  very  fine  large  house, 
situate  in  a  beautiful  garden  in  Jouy-aux-Arches,  opposite  Ars, 
on  the  other  bank  of  the  Moselle.  We  went  there  in  the  even- 
ing and  succeeded  in  finding  a  room  in  the  same  house.  When 
next  day  I  went  on  foot  to  Ars  with  Prof.  Busch,  we  met  Col- 
onel von  Berenhorst  with  his  daughter-in-law,  Avho  had  heard 
that  she  also  was  a  widow,  for  poor  young  Berenhorst  was  not 
only  wounded,  but  killed  on  the  iSth,  not  lar  from  St.  Privat, 


322  Ten  Years  of  my  Life. 

the  Saxon  troops  to  which  he  belonged  standing  next  to  the 
Prussian  Guards.  •  • 

In  the  evening  of  the  27th  several  members  of  our  family- 
met  in  Joiiy,  all  being  with  the  army  before  Metz.  There  was 
Prince  Alfred,  his  sons  Leopold  and  Florentine,  the  latter 
serving  in  a  regiment  of  jaegers  ;  the  Counts  Alfred  and  Otto. 
Salm-Hoegstraeten,  and  Prince  George  Croy,  a  knight  of 
Malta. 

On  Sunday  August  28,  the  zinc  coffins  were  finished,  and  I 
started  with  them  for  St.  Mary-aux-Chenes.  It  was  a  rainy, 
cold  day,  weather  quite  in  accordance  with  my  dismal  errand. 

Finding  an  abode  in  a  kind  of  shed  built  by  the  knights  of 
St.  John,  and  serving  as  their  head-quarters  there,  I  saw  in  an 
adjoining  compartment  a  rather  stout,  middle-aged  woman  in 
a  plain  black-dress,  busily  employed  with  cooking.  She  was  the 
generally  respected  Mrs.  Simon,  a  Saxon,  who  has  won  in  that 
war  a  well-merited  fame  by  her  practical  good  sense  and  energy, 
employed  with  great  success  for  the  benefit  of  the  soldiers. 
Conquering  all  opposing  difficulties,  hovvever  great,  she  suc- 
ceeded in  being  allowed  to  be  always  with  the  front  of 
the  army,  accompanied  by  a  well-trained  body  of  nurses, 
provided  with  everything  required  for  the  wounded  on 
the  battlefield,  where  indeed  help  was  most  needed.  The 
activity  of  '  Mother  Simon,'  as  she  was  called  by  the 
grateful  soldiers,  who  were  all  full  of  her  praises,  cannot  be 
sufficiently  appreciated.  She  furnished  the  most  striking 
evidence  that  the  leading  knights  of  St.  John  *  committed 
a  great  mistake  in  placing  difficulties  in  the  way  of  nurses  and 
voluntary  sanitary  associations,  who  wished  to  go  on  the  battle- 
fields and  not  to  be  bullied  and  treated  contemptibly  by  snobs 
several  miles  behind  the  front.  Great  complaint  was  made 
everywhere  about  this  mistake,  which  caused  a  great  deal  of 
suftering,  which  might  have  been  prevented.  Those  soldiers 
who  were  wounded  in  a  manner  which  permitted  their  trans- 
portation to  the  depots  behind  the  front  were  tolerably  well 
cared  for,  but  those  who  were  wounded  too  severely,  and  who 
had  to  remain  on  the  battlefield,  were  sadly  neglected.  They 
had  to  lie  in  yards  or  filthy  peasant  houses  on  the  bare  floor, 
often  even  without  straw,  without  any  food,  and  not  rarely  even 
without  water.  It  was  therefore  not  to  be  wondered  at  if,  of 
those  who  had  undergone  amputation  on  the  battlefield  such  a 


A  Painfal  Sight  ^  823 

frightful  proportion  died  in  the  hospitals  ;  for  having  been  with- 
out food  or  any  stimulant,  their  little  remaining  strength,  already 
taxed  to  the  utmost  by  the  amputation,  became  utterly  ex- 
hausted by  the  cruel  and  rough  transportation  on  common 
peasant  cars,  in  which  they  lay  often  for  many  hours,  huddled 
one  upon  the  other  like  calves  sent  to  the  market.  Many,  I 
am  sure  owed  their  lives  to  '  Mother  Simon's '  being  on  the 
spot.  I  hope  the  lesson  taught  by  her  will  not  be  forgotten 
whenever  another  war  shall  occur. 

We  soon  found  the  grave  in  which  the  officers  of  the  Augusta 
regiment  had  been  buried  together.  On  the  top  of  them  stood 
the  rough  deal  coffin  in  which  my  poor  Felix  had  been  laid, 
together  with  Florentine  ;  it  was  only  slightly  covered  with 
earth  and  a  corner  of  it  protruded. 

When  the  men  had  laid  the  coffin  bare,  I  insisted  on  the 
removal  of  its  lid,  notwithstanding  the  remonstrances  of  my 
brother-in-law  and  others.  I  wished  to  look  once  more  on  the 
face  of  my  dear,  beloved  husband,  believing  myself  stronger 
than  I  was.  When  the  men  complied  with  my  request,  and  I 
saw  instead  of  the  dear  face  only  a  black  mass,  my  strength 
failed  me  and  I  fainted. 

I  must  not  speak  of  these  moments.  Every  feeling  reader 
will  understand  them.     I  had  the  coffms  with  the  two  bodies 

placed  in  a  waggon  which  followed  the  carriage  of a 

knight  of  St.  John,  who  kindly  accompanied  us  on  this  sad 
journey.  Thus  we  returned  to  Ars-sur-Moselle.  There  I  had 
to  remain  a  day  longer  to  wait  for  wooden  cases,  which  had  to 
be  made  for  the  zinc  cofiins,  according  to  the  sanitary  regula- 
tions. 

Meanwhile  an  order  from  the  head-quarters  of  the  king  had 
arrived,  placing  at  my  disposition  an  extra  train,  and  on  it  I 
started  for  Anholt,  accompanied  by  Mrs.  von  Berenhorst  and 
Miss  Runkel,  my  brother-in-law  remaining  behind,  as  he 
wanted  to  be  near  his  two  sons,  in  case  anything  should 
happen  to  them. 

The  night  of  the  30th  we  passed  in  a  little  hotel  in  Lune- 
ville,  the  following  in  the  train,  arrived  on  September  i  in 
Mayence,  and  on  the  2nd  in  Anholt,  where  the  two  bodies 
were  placed  first  in  the  little  chapel. 

On  September  3,  the  obsequies  took  place,  with  all  the 
funeral  pomp   becoming  the   family.     The   two  coffins  were 


o2-t  ^  Ten   Years  of  my  Life. 

cnrried  to  the  church,  which  was  draped  in  black,  and  high 
iiiass  was  celebrated.  Minna,"  the  mother  of  Florentine,  had 
arrived.  All  the  daughters  of  my  brother-in-law  were  present, 
and  also  Prince  Alfred,  junior,  who  having  left  recently  the 
Austrian  service  could  not  take  part  in  the  war  and  remained 
at  home  with  his  wife,  Princess  Rosa.  Let  me  pass  over  de- 
tails.    It  is  too  painful  for  me  to  dwell  long  on  this  sad  period. 

When  all  was  over,  and  poor  Felix  placed  near  his  father 
and  mother,  together  with  Florentine,  in  the  family  vault,  it 
was  as  if  a  great  load  had  been  taken  off  my  mind.  I  had 
faithfully  fulfilled  my  duty  and  kept  my  vow.  I  felt  that  my 
dear  husband's  soul  was  at  rest  now,  and  peace  came  over 
mine  also.  But  I  felt  that  I  must  not  trust  it ;  that  it  was 
dangerous  to  ponder  over  my  woes.  Had  I,  as  my  brother- 
in-law  desired  me  to  do,  remained  in  Anholt  until  the  end  of 
the  war,  I  should  have  gone  mad.  I  knew  that  I  must  forcibly 
tear  myself  away,  and  battle  against  the  inclination  of  nursing 
my  grief,  and  that  I  could  only  conquer  it  by  help  of  great 
activity.  Therefore,  I  had  resolved  to  return  to  the  army 
immediately,  and  attend  still  more  assiduously  than  before  to 
my  duty. 

The  last  token  of  love  I  received  from  my  dear  husband 
was  a  postal  card,  written  immediately  before   the  battle  of 

Gravelotte.     Here  it  is  : — 

*  In  one  hour  we  begin  the  great  battle.  With  God  we  will  be  re- 
united ;  but  if  I  should  be  killed,  darling,  beloved  Agnes,  I  beg  your 
pardon  for  every  trouble  I  ever  have  made  you,  and  that  I  always  have 
loved  you,  and  that  I  take  this  only  love  with  me  in  my  grave.  My 
brother  will  take  care  of  you.  Keep  me  in  your  kind  remembrance. 
From  all  my  soul,  ^ 

*  Your  true  and  loving  husband, 

*  Felix. 

*  (Kiss  little  Jimmy). 

'  In  the  field,  near  Mctz,  the  i8th  of  August,  1870. 
'  Dear,  God  bless  you.     Thanks  for  your  love  and  everything  you  have 
dune  for  me.' 


h^o 


CHAPTER  XXI. 

Returning  to  the  war — In  Cologne — The  Knights  of  St,  jOiin— i>ai-on 
Edward  Oppenheim — In  Jouy-aux-Arches — Voluntary  nurses — Re- 
forms— Gifts  from  Cologne — My  store -rooms — Prince  Alfred — Miss 
Runkel — Shells — Surrender  Metz — Theft — Bad  conscience — A  rude 
doctor — A  princely  box  on  the  ear. 

Prince  Alfred,  my  poor  husband's  elder  brother,  was,  as  I 
said  before,  a  knight  of  Malta.  The  especial  duty  allotted  to 
him  had  been  to  accompany  the  sisters  of  mercy  and  vokmtary 
nurses  to  the  different  places  were  their  services  were  required. 
On  my  resolution  to  return  to  the  field  he  made  himself  free 
from  that  duty,  in  order  to  be  near  me  and  take  me  under  his 
protection.  Having  had  until  then  no  occasion  for  his  horses 
he  had  left  them  at  home,  but  now  he  wanted  me  to  bring  some 
with  me. 

I  went  next  to  Cologne,  where  I  procured  the  necessary 
tickets  of  legitimation  and  permits  for  the  free  conveyance  of 
my  carriage,  horses,  and  whole  party.  Having  attended  to 
this,  I  left  Anholt  with  a  carriage,  two  fine  coach-horses  and 
my  brother-in-law's  English  favourite  mare,  Miss  Runkel,  Mr. 
Frank,  Prince  Alfred's  English  coachman,  and  my  orderly, 
August.  The  latter  was  a  soldier  detailed  to  my  service  in 
Saarbruck,  who  remained  with  me  during  the  whole  campaign. 
He  was  by  trade  a  tailor,  from  Koenigsberg  in  Prussia,  and  as 
he  was  not  very  strong  the  army  could  spare  him. 

I  remained  two  days  in  Cologne,  where  I  visited  the  hospi- 
tals, which  were  under  the  excellent  direction  of  privy  coun- 
cillor Dr.  Fisher,  and  admired  greatly  all  the  sanitary  and  other 
arrangements  superintended  by  the  Oberpresident  von  Ber- 
nuth,  who  was  the  chairman  of  the  central  committee  in  Co- 


S2{}  Ten   Years  of  my  Life. 

logne.  Everything  there  was  perfect.  The  immense  stores 
were  well  filled,  and  supplies  arrived  regularly.  Applications 
made  from  different  parts  were  carefully  and  liberally  attended 
to  and  answered  with  a  promptitude  which  was  especially 
praiseworthy  and  beneficial.  Men,  mostly  selected  from  the 
nivT-rcantile  members  of  the  associations,  accompanied  such 
convoys — people  who  had  business  habits  and  who  understood 
how  to  distribute  the  things  with  order  and  in  a  judicious  man- 
ner, and  compared  with  whom  the  knights  of  Malta  and  St. 
John  were  at  a  great  disadvantage.  • 

These  knights  have  been  much  abused  and  ridiculed,  and, 
though  it  cannot  be  denied  that  they  offered  many  weak  poiiits 
and  furnished  ample  material  for  ridicule  and  censure,  it  is 
only  just  to  consider  what  can  be  said  in  their  defence. 

I'hey  were  all  noblemen,  and  mostly  wealthy ;  owners  of 
great  estates ;  princes,  counts,  and  barons  with  a  long  pedi- 
gree, living  mostly  in  their  castles.  Leaving  the  management 
of  their  estates  and  households  and  the  care  of  their  broad 
acres  almost  always  to  their  stewards,  they  lived  an  easy 
life,  were  used  to  command  as  masters, — in  a  word,  were 
aristocrats  to  the  core.  It  is  true  all  of  them  had  been  soldiers, 
but  it  was  mostly  long  ago,  and  if  they  retained  any  habits  of 
their  soldier  life  they  were  not  those  of  a  private  or  corporal 
or  poor  plodding  subaltern  ofiicer,  who  had  to  turn  every 
thaler  six  times  in  his  hands  before  he  spent  it.  The  war  of 
1866  was  so  very  short  that  not  much  experience  could  be  ac- 
quired in  it  by  such  knights  as  attended  it.  Now  they  were 
called  to  fulfil  the  traditional  duties  of  their  order,  of  which 
perhaps  only  very  few,  if  any,  had  a  definite  idea.  To  expect 
such  services  of  them  as  were  required  centuries  ago  from 
members  of  their  order  was  out  of  the  question.  They  were 
now  great  lords,  and  Christian  humility  is  not  the  first  among 
their  virtues.  If  they  condescended  to  accept  an  oftice  it 
could  be  only  one  becoming  their  social  position.  Many  say 
that  it  was  a  mistake  to  place  them  as  they  were  placed,  assert- 
ing that  they  did  more  harm  than  good  ;  an  opinion  held  espe- 
cially by  the  medical  gentlemen,  who  perfectly  understood 
their  business,  and  knew  exactly  what  was  required  for  wounded 
and  sick,  having  acquired  ample  experience  in  attending  all 
the  year  round  in  hospitals,  which  was  of  course  by  no  means 
the  case  with  these  knights. 


Knights  of  St  John.  S27 

There  were  amongst  them  many  who  earnestly  wished  to  do 
good  service,  and  even  some  who  made  themselves  extremely 
useful,  descending  from  their  stilts  and  using  their  hands  and 
feet  like  other  men  ;  but,  alas,  with  most  of  them  the  will  was 
better  than  the  capacity,  and  the  more  they  did  the  more 
harm  and  confusion  resulted  from  it. 

Most  of  the  stores  and  magazines  were  placed  under  the 
care  of  some  knight  of  these  orders.  An  immense  quantity 
and  variety  of  things  were  sent  in,  and  it  was  expected  that 
they  should  be  distributed  judiciously.  To  arrange  and  keep 
in  order  such  stores,  and  receive  goods  and  send  them  off, 
required  a  certain  business  routme  and  exertions  which  were 
utterly  out  of  the  depth  of  most  of  these  noblemen,  and  any 
clerk  of  a  mercantile  house  would  have  beaten  them  in  this. 

Many  were  satisfied  with  having  their  stores  always  well 
filled,  not  daring  to  distribute  anything  b^^ore  fresh  supplies 
had  arrived  to  keep  them  so,  not  caring  whether  here  or  there 
something  was  urgently  required.  Used  to  patronize,  they 
often  distributed  the  stores  more  according  to  favour  than  to 
necessity ;  and  complaints  about  partiality  and  injudicious 
division  were  very  frequent,  creating  great  dissatisfaction 
amongst  the  many  associations,  who  at  last  found  it  more  to 
the  purpose  to  send  practical  men  with  their  convoys  of  goods, 
who  judged  for  themselves  where  help  was  required,  instead 
of  delivering  their  things  into  the  depots  of  the  knights,  and 
leaving  the  distribution  to  them. 

The  ladies  I  found  employed  in  Cologne  in  the  different 
hospitals  and  establishments  for  the  support  of  the  soldiers  in 
the  field,  vied  successiully  with  the  male  members  of  the 
associa*-on.  Everywhere  they  kept  the  most  perfect  order, 
and,  being  good  housekeepers,  they  applied  their  domestic 
rules  to  their  establishments.  AM  I  saw  busily  employed  there 
wore  the  same  simple  dress,  which  did  a  great  deal  to  remove 
the  uneasy  feeling  produced  by  mixing  with  persons  belonging 
to  a  different  social  sphere. 

Baron  and  Baroness  Oppenheim  and  other  ladies  belonging 
to  the  committee  gave  me  an  immense  quantity  of  things  which 
I  knew  were  most  required  in  the  hospitals  before  Metz,  and  I 
left  Cologne  with  three  railroad  cars,  one  loaded  with  the  car- 
riage and  forage,  the  second  with  the  horses,  and  Mr.  Frank 
and  August,  and  the  third  containing  Miss  Runkel  and  mvself 


828  Ten   Years  of  my  Life. 

and  all  the  welcome  gifts  from  the  central  committee  ot 
Cologne.  "• 

I  was  lucky  enough  not  to  be  detained  anywhere  long,  and 
we  arrived  after  eight  days  at  Jouy,  for  all  the  stations  were 
extremely  crowded  and  the  rails  stopped  by  trains  with 
wounded  or  provisions  for  the  army.  Those  who  before 
never  learnt  patience  did  so  in  travelling  that  time  to  the 
army. 

Requiring,  first,  quarters  for  men  and  horses,  which  care 
my  brother-in-law  kindly  left  over  to  me  as  I  had  brought 
them  along,  I  called  the  morning  after  my  arrival  on  the  privy 
councillor,  Sulzer,  who  stood  at  the  head  of  the  commissariat 
or  quartermaster's  staff.  He  was  an  extremely  able  and  prac- 
tical man,  whose  services  have  been  highly  acknowledged  by 
the  Government.  He  very  readily  answered  to  my  request  ; 
I  was  billeted  with  Miss  Runkel,  Mr.  Frank,  and  August  and 
four  horses,  in  the  large  house  where  Dr.  Busch  was  quartered  ; 
and  my  brother-in-law  was  lodged  there  also,  as  well  as  dear 
Jimmy,  whom  I  had  taken  with  me.  The  poor  dog  had  so 
pined  for  me  and  his  master  that  he  had  become  quite  lean 
and  nearly  blind.  When  he  was  again  with  me  he  recovered 
soon,  and  the  film  covering  his  eyes  disappeared  also. 

I  urged  on  Dr.  Busch  the  necessity  for  work,  and  asked 
him  what  there  was  to  do  and  what  was  wanted.  '  We  have 
here 'five  hospitals,'  he  said,  'crowded  v/ith  men  severely 
wounded,  and  everything  is  wanting.'  The  poor  wounded  had 
no  properly  cooked  food,  and  it  was  my  first  care  to  establish 
kitchens  for  them.  The  difficulty  was  to  find  proper  female 
assistance,  for  though  there  were  plenty  of  voluntary  nurses, 
they  were  for  the  greater  part  mere  voluntary  nuisances,  with 
their  crinolines,  plumed  bonnets,  and  mincing  manners.  They 
were,  I  might  say,  female  knights  of  St.  John,  for  what  I  have 
said  of  these  was  still  more  applicable  to  most  of  those  female 
ScJilachten  biuiwiler^  who  never  forgot  that  they  '  volunteered  ' 
a  duty,  and  despised  rules  and  orders  ;  and  above  all  discipline 
and  punctuality.  Instead  of  arriving  at  seven  o'clock  in  the 
morning,  they  came  at  ten  or  eleven,  or  remained  away,  just 
as  they  pleased,  making  earnest  doctors  wish  that  they  had 
remained  at  home  altogether,  though  ethers  flirted  with  and 
protected  them. 

These  fine  ladies,  amongst  whom  were  some  with  a  'von' 


Baron  Edward  Oppenheirn.  829 

before  their  names,  were  quite  indignant  if  I  expected  them  to 
assist  in  the  kitchen,  to  cook,  or  to  perform  other  duties,  by 
which  they  thought  themselves  degraded.  They  were  always 
quarrelling  amongst  themselves,  and  the  hospitals  in  which 
they  attended  were  far  different  from  that  one  in  which  four 
sisters  from  Coblentz  were  nurses. 

I  told  Professor  Busch  that  I  wanted  regular  sisters  of 
mercy,  instead  of  voluntary  nurses,  and  it  was  resolved  to  pro- 
cure them.  I  therefore  applied  'to  Count  Hompesch,  a  knight 
of  Malta,  who  was  stationed  in  Covny,  and  most  readily  com- 
plied with  my  request.  Sisters  from  the  order  of  St.  Vincenz 
de  Paul  arrived  soon,  to  replace  the  voluntary  nuisances,  and 
things  improved  in  a  Vv'onderful  manner.  These  sisters  did 
not  llirt  and  look  out  for  husbands,  for  they  had  done  with  the 
world  ;  they  were  not  ashamed  to  do  menial  services,  and  did 
not  quarrel  amongst  themselves.  Quietly  and  obediently  they 
did  what  was  required  of  them  by  their  superiors,  and  even 
those  doctors  who  were  inclined  to  take  the  part  of  the  volun- 
tary nurses  had  to  admit  that  they  themselves  and  the  wounded 
profited  greatly  by  the  change. 

Now  I  arranged  that  in  each  of  the  hospitals  a  kitchen  was 
established,  and  also  a  store-room,  from  which  the  patients' 
wants  could  be  satisfied  at  once,  whilst  formerly  the  nurses  had 
always  to  apply  to  some  Johanniter,  which  caused  delays  and 
other  disagreeable  things. 

Not  long  after  my  return  from  Jouy  and  Ars  snr-Moselle, 
Baron  Edward  Oppenheirn  arrived  froni  Cologne,  with  a  great 
omnibus  filled  with  many  things,  which  I  had  told  him  were 
especially  wanted.  He  showed  himself  very  zealous,  visited 
all  the  hospitals,  even  the  typhus  hospital,  and  convinced  him- 
self of  the  shortcomings  and  wants,  and  the  manner  in  whicli 
the  voluntary  gifts  of  the  people  were  used  and  distributed. 
The  youngest  brother  of  the  baron  was  a  lieutenant  on  the 
staff  of  General  von  Kummer,  whose  troops  were  stationed 
very  near  Metz,  and  Baron  Edward,  curious  to  see  everything, 
went  round  with  him,  exposing  himself  more  than  was  prudent. 

The  things  which  he  brought  with  him  were  not  taken  from 
the  stores  of  the  committee  in  Cologne,  but  bought  by  him  and 
paid  for  out  of  his  own  pocket.  As  he  was  better  pleased  with 
my  manner  of  distribution  than  with  that  of  the  knights  of  St. 
John,  he  confided  them  all   to  me,   and  they  were  the  first 


SoO  Ten  Years  of  ray  Life. 

foundation  of  the  magazine  I  established,  for  tlie  example  set 
by  Baron  Oppenheim  found  many  imitators.  Deputies  from 
Elberfeld,  Barmen,  Hamburg,  Bremen,  Crefeld,  and  other 
places,  arrived  with  an  abundance  of  supplies.  There  was  an 
immense  number  of  bottles  of  fine  wines,  barrels  of  spirits,  bales 
of  tobacco,  cigars,  woollen  and  linen  clothes  of  every  kind,  &c. 
The  knights  of  St.  John  became  rather  jealous  and  annoyed 
when  these  gentlemen  arrived  with  the  special  order  to  deliver 
their  gifts  into  the  hands  of  the  Princess  Salm,  and  under  no 
circumstances  into  those  of  the  knights,  who  had  made  them- 
selves rather  unpopular  by  the  supercilious  manner  in  which 
they  often  treated  the  brave  men  who  volunteered  to  bring 
these  supplies  to  the  army,  which  was  by  no  means  an  easy  or 
a  pleasant  task.  My  stores  were  therefore  replete  with  every 
kind  of  good  thing,  whilst  the  depots  of  the  knights  remamed 
distressingly  empty.  Many  of  them  reproached  me  with  ac- 
cepting those  provisions  instead  of  letting  them  be  sent  to 
their  depots,  which  had  been  established  to  receive  them,  but 
as  many  of  the  delegates  declared  that  they  would  rather  take 
their  supplies  back  if  I  refused  them,  I  should  have  acted  very 
fooHshly  in  doing  so.  Some  of  the  knighrs  condescended  to 
request  me  tq  lend  them  part  of  my  abundance,  as  they  were 
ashamed  .of  the  emptiness  of  their  store  rooms,  and  1  did  so  ; 
but  not  one  of  them  demeaned  himself  so  much  as  to  remem- 
ber such  debts. 

It  was  natural  that  sometimes  the  donors  of  voluntary  gifts 
desired  that  they  .-^ould  chiefly  benefit  the  soldiers  from  their 
city  or  district,  and  so  it  happened  that  those  whose  homes 
were  near  the  Rhine  were  well  supplied,  whilst  the  soldiers 
from  Pomerania,  East  and  West  Prussia,  or  Silesia,  were 
neglected  in  this  respect  on  account  of  the  great  distance.  I 
therefore  took  care  to  make  up  for  this  disadvantage  whenever 
I  had  goods  at  my  disposition  for  general  use.  How  well 
supplied  my  stores  were,  may  be  judged  from  the  fact  that  I 
twice  supplied  a  whole  brigade  of  the  second  army  corps, — 
General  von  Fransecky's  Pomeranians, — with  tobacco,  cigars, 
and  spirits. 

Indeed  the  German  people  took  good  care  of  their  army  ; 
but  as  their  gifts  were  voluntary  they  were  supposed  to  have  a 
right  to  inquire  into  the  manner  in  which  they  were  applied, 
which  offended  the  pride  of  the  knights  of  St.  John,  who  were 


General  von  Steinmetz.  831 

not  always  willing  to  acknowledge  the  merit  of  those  who  gave 
especially  if  they  were  rich  men.  '  It  is  their  duty  to  give,  for 
the  soldiers  protect  their  strong  boxes,'  they  said.  If  these 
rich  men  happened  to  be  Jews  they  earned  still  less  thanks, 
for  these  Christian  noblemen  hated  Jews,  though  they  nevei 
had  been  too  proud  to  borrow  money  from  tiiem,  or  to  drink 
their  good  claret  and  champagne. 

Though  I  attended  now  and  then  in  the  hospitals  and  at 
operations,  I  made  it  my  principal  business  to  organize  and  to 
procure  provisions.  The  success  I  had  in  it  was  soon  noticed, 
by  which  my  influence  and  power  to  do  good  was  increased. 
I  was  well  supported  by  Prince  Alfred,  though  he  applied  him- 
self chiefly  to  attending  and  nursing  the  wounded  and  sick, 
selecting  for  this  purpose  the  dangerous  typhus  hospital.  I 
must  not  forget  to  mention  Miss  Runkel  either,  who  justified 
greatly  the  recommendation  from  Princess  Wied.  She  sup- 
ported me  most  willingly  and  ably,  and  was  very  useful  in  the 
hospitals,  where  she  worked  together  with  the  good  nuns, 
though  this  was  somewhat  against  the  regulation.  Her  good 
nature  and  good  humour  made  her  everywhere  a  favourite. 

Dr.  Busch  complained  that  the  wounded  in  the  hospitals 
had  no  bedsteads,  but  were  lying  on  mattresses  placed  on  the 
floor,  which  made  it  extremely  tiring  and  difficult  for  the 
doctors  to  dress  the  wounds,  and  increased  also  the  sufferings 
of  the  wounded.  As  he  was  only  Surgeon-General  of  the 
8th,  the  Rhenish  army  corps,  he  was  not  the  highest  medical 
authority,  but  over  him  stood  the  officer  attached  to  the  staff 
of  the  whole  First  Army  He  consequently  had  not  the  power 
to  do  all  he  wanted.  I  therefore  was  induced  to  interfere,  and 
try  my  influence  with  General  von  Steinmetz.  I  called  on  him, 
drew  his  notice  to  this  great  mconvenience,  and  suggested 
means  to  alter  it.  I  proposed  to  him  to  send  me  with  proper 
authority  to  Nancy,  where  I  would  soon  procure  bedsteads, 
or  to  order  that  every  house  in  Ars  should  supply  one,  or  that 
boards  should  be  supplied  and  bedsteads  made.  The  general 
was  rather  indignant,  and  after  having  expressed  his  displea- 
sure with  the  neglect,  he  ordered  at  once  measures  by  which 
it  was  corrected. 

I  had  no  cau-se  to  complain  that  my  services  v/ere  not 
acknowledged,  and  I  was  grea'.y  gratified  by  the  manner  in 
which  it  was  done.     General  von  Fransecky  gave  a  dinner  to 


332  Ten   I'ears  of  'my  Life. 

me  vvhich  I  could  not  refuse,  though  I  was  in  deep  mourning, 
and  not  in  a  irame  ol  mind  tp  attend  festivals.  Exceptional 
circumstances,  however,  justify  exceptions,  and  make  them 
even  necessary.  I  accepted  an  invitation  to  another  dinner 
which  was  given  in  the  head-quarters  of  the  First  Army,  which 
I  attended  in  company  with  my  brother-in-law. 

My  activity  was  not  only  restricted  to  Jouy  and  Ars,  I  went 
now  and  then  to  Mane-aux-Chenes,  and  other  places  around 
Metz,  to  distribute  supplies,  where  they  were  wanted  in  the 
difterent  hospitals. 

Fighting  was  meanwhile  going  on  around  Metz  continually, 
ana  we  were  by  no  means  secure  in  Ars,  which  for  that  purpose 
was  much  too  close  to  Fort  St.  Quentin.  One  of  the  hospitals 
was  right  in  the  line  of  the  shots,  but  as  it  lay  rather  deep  all 
shots  passed  over  it.  The  wounded  in  the  beds,  weak  and 
nervous  Irom  sickness,  were  frightened  and  excited  by  the 
noise  oi  the  shells  to  such  an  extent  that  it  caused  the  death 
ot  some  oi  them. 

Several  shells  struck  buildings  belonging  to  the  railroad 
station   and  one  carried  away  the  funnel  of  a  locomotive. 

^Vhen  I  was  one  day  in  the  garden  of  the  house  in  which 
Were  my  stores,  and  an  aide-de-camp  of  General  von  Fran- 
secky  with  me,  taking  supp.'ies,  a  shell  struck  ten  paces  from 
us,  but  fell  fortunately  in  a  ditch.  My  tailoring  ^oldier  August 
dived  at  once  into  the  house,  and  was  much  ashamed  when  I 
called  him  from  his  hiding-place.  But  when  a  short  time 
afterwards  another  shell  tell  again  in  the  neighbourhood,  we 
all  thought  it  prudent  to  retreat  until  the  shower  was  over. 

At  last  Metz  surrendered,  and  though  the  weather  was  very 
bad  and  we  all  were  wet  to  the  skin,  I  saw  the  French  march 
out.  It  was  a  glorious  but  also  a  sad  sighi.  I  shall  not 
describe  it,  as  it  has  been  done  frequently,  but  only  mention 
the  general  belief  in  our  army  that  Bazaine  was  by  no  means 
forced  to  surrender,  but  that  he  sold  Metz  and  acted  as  a 
tiaitor  to  his  country. 

As  Princess  Croy  had  v;ritten  to  request  me  to  make  inqui- 
ries about  some  French  officers,  her  relatives,  who  had  been 
in  Metz,  after  having  informed  General  von  Fransecky  about  it, 
I  drove  on  October  30,  with  Dr.  Busch  and  Dr.  von  Kiihle- 
wetter  to  that  city.  With  great  trouble  I  found  one  of  the 
officers.  Count  Man.  who  told  me  that   the  two  others  were 


Theft  of  Chassepots.  333 

safe  and  well.  He  gave  me  telegrams  for  his  wife  and  family, 
which  I  sent  by  post  to  Princess  Croy. 

When  returning  to  Jouy  and  passing  the  gate  of  Metz  I  saw 
there  a  whole  heap  of  chassepots,  thrown  awiy  by  the  French, 
and  two  Prussian  soldiers  standing  as  guard  near  them.  Now 
everybody  wanted  to  have  a  chassepot  at  that  time,  and  I  also. 
I  therefore  stopped  the  cariage  and  requested  the  sentinels, 
who  knev/  me,  in  my  bad  German,  to  turn  their  backs,  because  I 
wanted  to  •:  A  a  -hassepot.  The  manner  in  which  I  expressed 
myself  must  have  been  very  funny,  for  they  laughed  like  mad 
and  turned  round,  whilst  Frank,  the  coachman,  took  two 
chassepots  and  put  them  in  the  carriage. 

When  next  evening  we  were  sittmg  at  supper,  an  orderly 
with  a  gun  in  his  hand  entered  the  room,  addressing  himself 
to  me.  I  was  quite  frightened,  for  I  thought  my  theft  had 
been  discovered,  and  t^he  soldier  had  come  to  arrest  me.  But 
nO;  General  von  Fransecky,  remembering  my  wish  to  have  a 
chassepot,  and  not  knowmg  that  I  had  helped  myself  already, 
sent  his  compliments,  togeJier  with  ihe  desired  object,  which 
1  gave  to  Alfred. 

The  surrender  of  Metz  of  course  made  a  g^eat  change  in  our 
arrangements.  The  hospitals  were  evacuated  as  soc.-^.  as  pos- 
sible, and  I  di'tributed  my  clothes  amongst  the  soldiers  who 
were  going  home.  Poor  good  fellows,  when  they  said  good- 
bye to  me,  they  had  tears  in  '  aJir  eyes,  and  expressed  their 
thanks  for  what  I  had  done  for  them  in  simple,  heartlelt 
words. 

Whilst  in  Jouy  1  received  letters  of  condolence  from  Her 
Majesty  the  Queen,  the  Grand  Duchess  of  Baden,  Princess 
William  of  Baden,  and  many  other  kind  per  on;=ges.  I  of 
course  answered  that  of  Her  Majesty  at  once,  but  most  of  the 
others  I  could  not  answer  then  for  want  of  time  or  other  causes. 

I  drove  with  my  brother-in-law  on  November  i  to  Metz  to 
see  Count  Man,  the  relative  of  Princess  Croy,  and  found  that 
he  had  already  left  with  .his  general.  When  we  were  lunching 
in  the  hotel  in  Metz  I  had  a  little  adventure  which  I  shall 
mention,  because  it  was  the  only  instance  of  my  ever  having 
been  annoyed  by  rudeness  during  the  wliole  war.  Though  I 
had  to  mix  everywhere  with  soldiers  and  other  persons  in  the 
camps  and  in  the  hospitals,  I  never  had  to  complain  of  any- 
one ;  I  was  always  treated  with  respect. 


834  Ten  Years  of  my  Life. 

Prince  Alfred  and  I  were,  sitting  in  a  room,  separated  ^rom 
the  general  dining-room  by  a%4ass  door.  In  the  latter  were 
many  officers  assembled,  of  whom  several  knew  me,  and 
amongst  ihem  was  a  general. 

When  the  Prince  went  away  lor  a  few  minutes  and  I  was  alone 
in  the  room,  a  doctor  from  the  8th  army  corps  approached  the 
door,  and  looking  through  the  glass,  made  signs  and  faces  at 
me.  I  looked  away  and  tried  not  to  take  any  notice,  for  the 
doctor  seemed  to  be  somewhat  under  the  influence  ot  wine. 
At  last  he  entered  and  addressed  me.  I  mswered  him  indig- 
nantly, and  told  him  ihat  he  was  mistaken — I  was  not,  as  he 
supposed,  a  Frenchwoman.  On  this  my  brothei-in-law  came, 
and  the  importunate  doctor  re-entered  the  g  jneral  room  ;  but 
seeing  that  something  had  c^nnoyed  me  the  Prince  inquired, 
and  I  told  him.  He  became  very  angry,  at  once  followed  the 
doctor 'and  addressed  him  before  all  the  officers,  asking 
whether  he  knew  who  the  lady  was  to  whom  he  had  spoken, 
and  being  answered  in  an  insolent  manner  by  the  doctor  that 
he  did  not  care  a  straw,  the  Prince  gave  him  a  box  on  his  ear ; 
and  on  hearing  the  case  the  general  and  officers  said  that  he 
had  rightly  deserved  it.  The  thing  had  no  consequences,  for 
the  doctor  had  to  pocket  the  blow  and  to  apologize  into 
the  bargain. 


^  boH 


CHAPTER  XXII. 

Marcliing  orders — Death  of  Count  Waldersee — On  the  march — Lost  ( 
the  road — Brabant — In  search  of  quarters — In  a  shepherd's  house- 
How    we    passed    the   night — A   wonderful   snoratorio — Vienne    1> 
Chateau — An  ecclesiastical  cat — In  Rheims — Vilie  aux  Bois  Jouchery 
— A  Frenchified  German — Madame  la  Baronne  de  Sachs.  Attichy — A 
'  particulier ' — Compicgne — The  rooms  of  Empress  Eugenie — Monti- 
dier — The  'terrible'  things — Battle  of  Moreuil — Fog — Strange  mi^ 
take — Miss  Runkel  taken  for  a  '  Protzkasten  ' — ^Jimmy — My  pigeon — 
After  the  battle — General  von  Kummer — Amiens — In  Boves — Colonel 
Cox — The  international  commission — Starting  for  Rouen — La  Feuilie 
— A  sacked  chateau — In  Rouen — Dangerous  looking  people — Visit  to 
General  von  Manteufifel — Leaving  Rouen — Le  Heron — Order  to  pre- 
pare lor  battle — The   battle  of   Querriere — Our  Verbandplatz — The 
room   for   the  fatallv  wounded — Short   of  provisions — Fed   by   the 
English — My  assistance —Under  fire — Dangerous  curiosity — Rev.  M.. 
Gross  wounded — End  of  the  battle — Supper  on  the  amputation  table 
— Returning   to   Amiens — A    busy  night — Miss  Runkel's    Samaritan 
work — My  birthday — Count  Luttichau  and  Captain  Voelkel-^Tele- 
graphing   for  their   wives — Captain  Voekel's  death — Arrival  of  his 
wife — General  von   Blankensee — His  wife— His  death — In  Albert — 
Captain  von  Marien — Bapaunie- -General  Count  von  der   Goeben — A 
distracted  cook — The  wounded — Captain  von  Butler— Dead — Hospi- 
tal in  the  convent — I  discover  an   old  acquaintance — And  make  the 
acquaintance  ot  the  black  small-pox — Returning  ''.o  Amiens — Arrival  of 
officers'  wives — I  lall  ill  with  the  small-pox— Marching  orders — Four 
days  in  bed  only — In  Peronne — General  von  Memerty — My  prophetic 
talents — Three  hundred  wounded   and    nothing   to   eat — Again  our 
English  friends — Prince  Alfred's  exertions — Miss  Runkel's  exhaustion 
— Jimmy  catching  a  Tartar — The  glorious  battle  of  St.   Quentin — 
Shoes  and  stockings  left  in  the  mud — In   St.  Quentin — The  Hotel 
Cambronne — Adoctorless  pnvate  hospital — Miss  Runkel's  glory — My 
five  hundred  boarders — Howl  managed  for  them — Aimistice — Going 
home — Acknowledgments — General  von  Manteufiel  proposing  me  for 
the  iron   cross — Thanks  in   the   name  of  the  1st  army  by  letter  of 
General  von  Goeben — Letter  of  General  von  Fransecky. 

On  November  3  we  received  marching  orders,  that  is,  the  notice 


»o 


6  Ten   Years  of  any  Life. 


to  make  ready.  On  the  4th  we  saw  in  Metz  the  8th  army 
corps  pass,  and  spoke  to  many  of  our  friends  from  Coblentz, 

namely  General  v.  S ,  who  told  me  of  the  death  of  Count 

"Waldersee,  who  was  wounded  at  St.  Privat,  and  killed  before 
Paris  a  few  days  before  he  had  returned  again  to  his  command. 

One  or  two  days  before  our  departure  gentlemen  from  the 
city  of  Crefeld  arrived  with  supplies,  which  they  handed  over  to 
me,  and  I  resolved  to  take  my  provisions  with  me  and  to  use 
them  in  time  of  need.  Privy  Councillor  Sulzer  allowed  me  nine 
v/aggons  and  eighteen  horses  for  them,  and  when  we  left  Jouy 
on  the  7th  we  formed  quite  a  respectable  caravan.  We  passed 
our  first  night  at  Jarny  and  the  following  at  Etain.  The  weather 
had  become  fine,  and  after  the  busy  and  yet  monotonous  time 
before  Metz  the  change  of  scene  was  agreeable  and  refreshing 
to  all  of  us. 

On  leaving  Etain  next  morning  we  found  the  road  much 
crowded  with  waggons  and  troops,  and  we  could  progress  only 
very  slowly.  Prince  Alfred,  who  was  on  horseback,  suggested 
a  b3^-road,  but  we  lost  ourselves,  and  it  was  dark  when  we 
arrived  at  head-quarters,  where  we  ought  to  have  been  at  two 
o'clock.  There  we  received  the  rather  distressing  mtelligence 
that  our  party  had  been  detached  to  another  village,  Brabant, 
some  distance  off,  which  we  did  not  reach  before  eight  o'clock 
p.m.  In  that  village  existed  only  one  respectable  house,  the 
chateau,  where  we  were  billeted  ;  but  on  arriving  we  found  our 
quarters  occupied  by  General  von  Kummer  and  his  staff,  who 
had  believed  that  we  had  remained  with  tlie  head-quarters, 
stavinsf  out  beyond  any  reasonable  time. 

As  we  of  course  could  not  insist  on  our  right  and  disposses 
the  general,  we  looked  out  for  other  quarters.  When  we  nearly 
despaired  of  finding  any  and  thought  of  passing  tne_night  in 
cur  carriages,  we  discovered  at  last  the  dwelling  of  a  shepherd 
who  lived  with  his  vvife  in  two  extremely  dirty  rooms  on  the 
ground  floor,  with  which  we  were  compelled  to  be  satis,  f^d, 
envying  almost  our  horses  which  had  found  excellent  srabi.ng 
in  the  shed  where  once  the  sheep  had  been,  transforir.ed  long 
ago  by  the  natural  process  of  eating  into  the  substance  of'two- 
legged  lions,  commonly  called  there  '  ks  sacres  Prussiens.^  The 
front  room  in  which  stood  a  small  cooking  stove,  looked  so 
disuial  and  uninhabitable  that  we  all  crowded  into  the  back 
room,  which  was  adorned  with  an  immense  four-post  bed 
filling  up  one  corner. 


In  a  ShephercVs  House.  837 

The  shepherd  and  his  wife  were  quite  bewildered,  but  I  at 
once  won  the  good  graces  of  the  latter  by  presenting  her  with 
a  few  bottles  of  wine,  a  ham  and  some  other  eatables.  When 
I  expressed  a  wish  to  have  the  stove  in  the  back  room,  she,  to 
our  surprise,  lifted  it,  heated  as  it  was,  and  carried  it  in. 

After  Miss  Runkel  had  superficially  cleaned  our  abo^e,  she 
made  some  good  coffee,  whilst  I  cooked  some  ham  and  eggs 
for  supper,  and  Prince  Alfred  brewed  a  hot  whiskey  punch. 
Rather  enjoying  our  strange  situation,  we  sat  on  benches 
around  the  table,  eating  and  drinking  with  a  very  good 
appetite. 

Then  the  momentous  question  turned  up  how  we  should 
pass  the  night,  and  it  was  resolved  that  we  should  all  remain 
in  the  warm  room,  the  gentlemen  on  straw  on  the  floor,  and 
Miss  Runkel  and  myself  with  Jimmy  in  the  four-poster.  ".4 
/a  guerre  cornme  a  la  guen-e  J  "  The  litter  was  soon  made  ;  three 
gendemen.  Prince  Alfred,  Prof.  Busch,  and  Dr.  von  Kiihle- 
wetter,  lay  down  on  it,  while  I  and  Miss  Runkel  escaladed  the 
high  four-poster. 

In  an  adjoining  compartment  the  shepherd  had 
from  the  stable  a  goat  and  a  lamb,  which  seemed  much  dis- 
tressed with  their  change  of  quarters,  for  the  lamb  was  bleating 
all  night  most  pitifully,  and  its  mother  hushed  it  now  and  then 
with  a  comforting  quaver,  which  displeased  Jimmy  who  growled 
and  snarled. 

Such  trifles  did  not  matter,  however ;  the  three  gentlemen 
evinced  already  some  signs  of  sleep  when  the  shepherdess 
hurriedly  came  in  to  correct  a  great  neglect,  that  is,  to  bring 
me  and  Miss  Runkel  two  of  her  nightcaps  ;  for  to  sleep  with- 
out a  nigfitcap  seems  a  perposterous  idea  to  a  Frenchwoman. 
The  good  creature  was  quite  stupified  by  the  uproarious  laugh- 
ter produced  by  her  thoughtful  kindness. 

When  the  effects  of  this  intermezzo  had  died  away  all  set- 
tled again  for  sleep.  Prince  Alfred  soon  tuned  a  hymn  in  hon- 
our of  Morpheus  in  a  fine  baritone  snore  ;  and  Dr.  von  Kiihle- 
wetter  accompanied  him  in  a  sentimental  juvenile  treble; 
whilst  Professor  Busch  snored  an  equally  cadenced  deep  bass, 
speaking  of  a  peaceful,  evenly  balanced  mind,  and  becoming 
the  dignity  of  his  position.  It  was  a  wonderful  snoratorio 
rather  improved  by  the  bleating  of  the  lamb,  the  quavering  of 
the  goat,  and  the  growling  of  jimmy. 

u 


338  Ten   Years  of  my  Life. 

Miss  Runkel  and  I  tried  to  follow  the  example  thus  given, 
and  we  thought  we  should  siicceed,  when  a  surprised  '  Oh  !'  of 
Miss  Runkel  showed  that  she  was  still  awake.  I  need  not  to 
ask  the  cause  of  her  ejaculation,  for  I  felt  it  at  the  same  mo- 
ment, and  Jimmy's  impatient  movements,  which  shook  the 
four-poster,  revealed  to  us  undoubtedly  the  alarming  truth  that 
we  were  in  the  camp  of  a  blood-thirsty,  hostile  army.  Whether 
the  French  fleas  were  conscious  that  we  were  Prussians  I  do 
not  know,  but  the  most  ferocious  franctireurs  could  not  have 
treated  us  more  cruelly. 

Well,  even  a  night  like  that  has  an  end,  and  thinking  how 
the  poor  wounded  had  to  suffer  for  their  country,  we  meekly 
submitted  to  our  fate ;  though  we  were  glad  when  morning 
dawned.  It  was,  however,  a  very  bad  morning,  the  rain  pour- 
ing down  in  sheets. ' 

We  passed  the  night  of  the  loth  in  Varennes,  and  the  fol- 
lowing in  Vienne  le  Chateau,  where  we  arrived  early  in  the 
house  of  a  pastor,  who  gave  us  good  rooms  and  a  good  dinner. 
We  had  a  roast ;  the  meat  tasted  somewhat  like  chicken,  and 
we  guessed  that  it  might  be  a  French  rabbit,  but  we  were 
rather  astonished  to  hear  that  it  had  been  a  French  cat !  It 
was  the  first  I  ever  ate,  and  I  trust  it  was  the  last, — though  it 
was  rather  good.  After  all,  such  a  deceit  from  a  clergyman 
grieved  me. 

Passing  through  Suippe,  where  we  had  very  good  quarters 
in  a  fine  villa,  and  were  treated  extremely  well,  we  arrived  on 
November  1 1  in  Rheims.  We  remained  in  that  old  city  until 
the  17th,  and  had  ample  time  to  admire  the  fine  cathedral,  the 
triumphal  arch,  &c.,  and  to  discover  that  we  had  at  home  much 
better  champagne  than  they  sold  at  a  rather  high  price  in  this 
home  of  that  wine. 

On  November  17  we  arrived  in  Ville  aux  Bois  Jouchery, 
where  we  were  quartered  in  a  pretentious  chateau,  situated 
in  a  very  tastefully  laid-out  and  well  kept  park,  belonging  to 
Monsieur  le  Baron  de  Sachs.  A  gorgeously  liveried  footman 
opened  the  door  of  a  saloon,  announcing  with  great  emphasis, 
*  Madame  la  Princesse  !'  On  entering  we  saw  a  fat  old  lady, 
Madame  la  Baronne  de  Sachs;  dressed  up  like  an  English  fri- 
gate on  the  birthday  of  the  Queen,  each  of  her  fat  fingers 
covered  up  to  the  third  joint  with  sparkling  rings,  who  looked 
rather  perplexed  when  she  saw  two  insignificant  persons,  in 


A  '  ParticullerJ  339 

black  woollen  dresses  without  any  flounces,  and  a  white  band" 
with  a  red  cross  on  their  arms,  enter,  whom  she  probably  took 
for  two  chambermaids  pr-epahng  her  for  the  arrival  of  Her 
Highness. 

I  am  sure  the  pleasure  of  these  pompous  people  was  much 
spoilt  by  our  simplicity,  and  on  seeing  my  brother-in-law 
Alired  in  his  shooting  jacket  their  thoughts  about  German 
princes  were  not  improved.  We  had  an  excellent  lunch,  but 
being  quite  disgusted  with  the  Frenchified  behaviour  and 
speeches  ot  these  German  renegades,  I  found  pleasure  in  dis- 
appointing them  by  not  appearing  at  dinner,  pleading  sickness 
and  remaining  in  my  bed. 

The  i8th  of  November  we  stayed  in  Braisne,  and  reached 
on  the  19th  Soissons,  where  we  arrived  at  twelve  o'clock,  and 
were  quartered  in  the  house  of  a  real  French  baron,  de  Sahume. 
The  fine  manners  of  the  baroness,  and  the  style  of  his  hospi- 
tality, formed  a  striking  contrast  with  that  of  the  Baroness 
Sachs. 

Soissons  showed  still  many  tokens  of  the  recent  siege.  One 
of  its  suburbs  was  entirely  in  ruins,  having  been  destroyed  by 
the  French  themselves. 

Sunday,  the  20th,  we  arrived  in  Attichy.  We  were  quartered 
in  a  house  belonging  to  a  tradesman,  who,  after  having  made 
some  little  money,  settled  as  a  *  particiilier.'  The  French  are 
a  very  sensible  people  in  this  respect ;  they  do  not  live  to 
work  ;  they  work  to  live.  Their  great  ambition  and  desire  is 
to  earn  enough  to  live  independently  of  being  obliged  to  work. 
As  long  as  they  are  in  business  they  are  very  industrious  ;  they 
work  day  and  night  until  they  have  made  money  enough  to 
retire  and  to  become  '  particuliers.*  As  the  habits  and  taste 
of  the  middle  and  lower  classes  in  France  are  very  simple  and 
economical,  it  is  not  very  difticult  for  steady  people  amongst 
them  to  save  the  few  thousand  francs  which  are  required  to 
live  such  a  simple  and  frugal  li^e  as  makes  them  contented  and 
happy. 

Our  landlord  was  so  much  affected  by  the  honour  done  to 
his  house  by  having  a  Prince  and  Princess  as  guests,  that  he 
trembled  all  over  and  shed  tears  when  I  looked  at  him  or  ad- 
dressed him.  We  had  very  good  and  comfortable  rooms,  and 
the  proprietor  and  his  wife  waited  in  person  upon  us,  for  they 
did  not  keep  a  servant. 


840  Ten  Years  of  my  Life. 

At  six  o'clock  we  dined.  We  were  six  at  table  :  the  '  par- 
ticulier/  tlie  '  particiiliere,'  and  her  aged  father,  my  brother-in- 
law,  Miss  Runkel  and  myself.  The  dinner,  a  soup  with  the 
meat  in  it,  was  placed  on  t4ie  bare  table.  The  '  particiiliere  * 
cut  the  bread  and  gave  it  to  each  in  her  hand,  and  with  a 
smiling  face.  Our  simple  repast  was  ihuminated  by  a  solitary 
tallow  candle,  which  was  snuffed  every  few  minutes  by  the 
same  fingers  which  gave  us  the  bread.  I,  liked  this  dinner  bet- 
ter than  many  very  fine  ones  I  had  in  France,  in  chateaux 
whose  proprietors  were  base  enough  to  fein  German  sympa- 
thies, whilst  this  poor  honest  man  and  patriot  bravely  said  that 
he  would  rather  die  than  see  Prussia  take  one  square  foot  of 
land. 

Passing  next  morning  in  fine  weather  through  magnificent 
woods,  we  arrived  early  in  Compiegne,  where  we  were  splendidly 
quartered  in  the  villa  of  a  M.  Sauvage,  who  was  fortunately 
absent  in  Paris,  eating,  probably,  horse  steaks  and  roast  rats, 
whilst  we  were  sitting  at  his  sumptuously  provided  dinner- 
table,  drinking  Prussian  healths  in  excellent  French  cham- 
pagne. 

We  remained  in  Compiegne  four  days,  and  visited,  of  course, 
the  palace,  and  the  once  splendid,  but  now  somewhat  spoilt, 
rooms  of  the  Empress  Eugdnie,  wondering  at  their  luxurious 
arrangements. 

On  the  25th  we  left  Compiegne  with  the  staff  of  General 
von  Goeben,  and  overtook  on  the  road  General  von  Manteuffel 
and  staff,  with  whom  we  entered  Montidier.  We  had  very 
fine  rooms  in  the  house  of  a  gentleman,  who  was  much  affected 
in  showing  us  from  the  window  a  place  where  five  'terrible^ 
Prussian  guns  had  been  placed,  which  had  fired  five  '  terrible  ^ 
shots,  which  offered  a  most  '  terrible '  sight,  and  after  which 
'  terrible '  event  the  place  surrendered. 

Saturday,  the  26th,  we  remained  in  Plessier-Rozainvillers. 
Next  morning,  Sunday,  the  27th  November,  we  marched  early 
towards  Moreuil.  The  weather  was  foggy,  and  soon  became 
so  dark  that  we  could  not  see  many  paces  around  us.  When 
we  came  to  a  turn  in  the  roL^d  leading  to  our  allotted  quarters, 
which  were  in  a  little  place  somewhere  between  Moreuil  and 
Amiens,  we  heard  suddenly  the  rolling  of  musketry  not  far 
from  us.  Aides-de-camp  were  running  about  frantic,  their  horses 
looking  in   the  fog   like    dromedaries.      The  whole   column 


In  a  Battle,  341 

halted.  All  waggons  and  carriages  were  ordered  to  the  rear, 
I  would  not  part  with  mine,  and  I  had  my  will  as  usual ;  the 
aides-de-camp  having  no  time  to  persuade  me.  The' French 
had  taken  advantage  of  the  fog,  and  attacked  us.  At  last  I 
had  my  wish,  I  was  in  a  battle  ;  but,  alas,  I  did  not  see  it ;  I 
only  heard  the  din  of  battle  and  the  strange  noise  of  the  shells, 
and  the  malicious  sharp  sound  of  the  chassepot  bullets.  Our 
triend  from  the  staff,  Major  von  Strantz,  arrived  in  hot  haste. 
'  Princess,'  he  cried,  'away,  away,  in  the  name  of  God,  or  you 
are  lost  !*  I  could  not  see  it,  and  did  not  go  ;  but  we  were 
ordered  to  a  near  place  behind  a  cluster  of  bushes  in  a  dell, 
where  we  might  be  considered  comparatively  secure,  but  where 
we  saw  less  than  nothing.  My  brother-in-law's  blood  was  up, 
however.  He  wanted  to'  see  the  battle,  and  cantered  off  to- 
wards the  front,  allured  and  guided  by  the  roll  of  musketry. 
If  he  was  killed  or  wounded  they  at  home  would  have  charged 
me  with  his  misfortune,  I  knew,  and  as  his  idle  curiosity  in 
that  fog  was  foolish  I  sent  an  orderly  after  him  to  beg  him  to 
return  ;  but  he  pshawed  and  got  indignant  at  the  presumption 
of  restricting  his  liberty  of  making  a  target  of  himself,  and  went 
on. 

Meanwhile,  poor  Jimmy  was  a  picture  of  despair.  That  he 
did  not  die  of  fright  was  a  wonder  ;  he  drew  in  his  tail  as  close 
as  possible,  and  took  shelter  between  my  feet. 

My  pet  pigeon  began  fluttering  in  its  basket,  and  I  took  i': 
out  on  my  fingers  ;  but  on  hearing  all  the  strange  noises  ir 
flapped  its  wings  and  looked  alarmed  ;  I  therefore  put  it  again 
in  its  travelling  place. 

I  ha^e  not  yet  said  a  word  about  my  pigeon,  which  was  a  new- 
pet  of  mine,  called  by  some  a  new  nuisance,  on  account  of  its 
harpying  habits  I  got  it  in  a  manner  which  is  worth  relating. 
An  officer  from  Dresden,  Lieutenant  von  Lavilre,  had  been 
dangerously  wounded,  and  his  arm  had  been  amputated. 
Miss  Runkel  and  myself  nursed  the  poor  boy,  and  she  wrote 
letters  home  for  him,  etc.  He  was  very  much  affected  by  our 
manner  of  treating  him,  and  he  expressed  to  Miss  Runkel  his 
wish  to  show  me  in  some  manner  his  gratitude.  His  landlord 
had  presented  him  with  a  young  pigeoH  ;  he  had  nothing  else, 
and  sent  it  to  me — for  breakfast.  Had  it  been  dead  I  would 
have  eaten  this  sacrifice  in  a  goddess-like  manner  ;  but  as  it 
was  sent  alive  I  could   not  kill  it,  though  at  that  time  1  might 


f> 


i2  Ten   Years  of  my  Life. 


have  found  it  in  my  heart  to  kill  a  Frenchman.  I  resolved  to 
keep  it,  and  Professor  Busch  taught  me  how  to  feed  it  with 
soaked  peas,  which  I  took  iq  my  mouth.  Alfred,  who  had  an 
uneasy  foreboding,  urged  the  Professor  to  stuff  the  little 
nuisance  to  death  ;  but  the  good  Professor  did  not,  neither 
did  I,  and  the  Prince  fed  it  himself  out  of  his  own  mouth. 
It  was  an  intelligent  thing.  Every  morning  it  came  on  my 
bed,  and  if  I  were  still  asleep  it  gently  pecked  my  eyelids  or 
face  to  awaken  me. 

But  to  return  to  the  battle.  Professor  Busch,  the  other 
doctors,  and  myself,  tried  hard  to  be  permitted  to  go  to  the 
Verbandplatz,  but  we  were  told  that  we  could  not,  as  we  would 
have  to  pass  through  a  cross-fire.  Moreover,  we  were  ordered 
to  keep  as  quiet  as  possible,  and  to  comply  promptly  with  the 
directions  given,  to  move  so  many  paces  to  the  right  or  left, 
or  forward  or  backward,  as  was  required  by  the  movements  of 
the  troop^. 

Standing  near  the  bushes  in  the  dale  we  saw  the  staff  of 
General  von  Manteuffel,  at  a  distance  before  us,  on  an  emi- 
nence. Looking  round  towards  us,  and  seeing  through  the  fog 
only  indistinctly  my  carriage  and  our  mounted  servants,  he 
believed  us  to  belong  to  the  reserve  artillery  lor  which  he  had 
sent,  and  the  officers  jokingly  said  that  he  had  mistaken  Miss 
Runkel,  who  had  remained  on  her  seat  in  the  carriage,  for  the 
Protzkasten  (caisson). 

The  battle  lasted  from  eleven  o'clock  a.m.  until  six  o'clock 
p.m.,  and  we  all  felt  exceedingly  hungry,  for  since  our  cofi'ee 
at  six  in  the  morning  we  had  eaten  nothmg.  As  our  march  of 
that  day  was  so  very  short  we  had  not  taken  anything  to  eat 
with  us.  By  great  favour  we  got  at  last  some  black  bread  and 
a  slice  of  raw  bacon,  and  I  feasted  on  it  with  delight. 

At  last  the  fight  was  over;  I  am  afraid  we,  had  to  make  a 
retrograde  movement,  but  I  had  my  quarters  at  Moreuil  in  a 
cap  store,  called  au  bon  diable. 

After  a  battle,  we  were  of  course  always  very  busy.  At 
eight  o'clock  next  morning  I  went  to  the  hospital  established 
in  the  school-house,  where  I  found  some  old  nuns,  who  assisted 
me  in  dressing  the  wounds  of  an  officer  and  ten  private 
soldiers,  after  which  I  drove  with  Alfred,  Professor  Busch,  and 
Dr.  von  Kiihlewetter,  to  see  another  hospital  in  Sains,  where 
we  found  many  wounded  from  the  battle,  and  others  who  had 


tovo-n'ender  of  Amiens.  o4;3 

had  nothing  to  eat  since  yesterday  morning.  I  therefore  went 
to  General  von  Kummer,  who  gave  me  at  once  an  order  for 
meat,  meat  extr-ict,  and  other  things  required  ;  but  to  provide 
for  the  moment  I,  with  the  permission  of  the  kind-hearted 
general,  robbed  his  own  kitchen.  He  said  his  staff  might  live 
on  half-rations  for  a  day,  and  I  answered  it  would  serve  him 
and  them  right,  and  that  I  was  glad  they  had  to  do  pennance  for 
having  robbed  me,  two  days  ago,  of  my  quarters,  exposing  n^e 
to  attacks  of  a  whole  army-corps  of  ferocious  little  French 
brown  hussars. 

On  November  29,  after  having  attended  to  the  w^ounded  in 
Moreuil,  I  went  to  Amiens,  of  which  the  citadel  was  not  yet 
in  our  hands  ;  it  surrendered,  however,  the  next  day,  after  its 
brave  commander  had  found  the  death  desired  by  him,  in 
mounting  on  the  crest  of  the  wall,  making  thus  of  himself  a 
target  for  our  sharp-shooters. 

I  was  quartered  in  the  house  of  an  eminent  lawyer,  where 
we  had  very  good  rooms  and  were  extremely  well  taken  care 
of. 

On  December  i.  Dr.  Busch  and  I  drove  to  Boves,  where  we 
found  only  twelve  of  our  wounded,  but  two  hundred  wounded 
French  soldiers,  under  the  care  of  French  doctois,  who  were 
very  polite  and  kind  to  us  We  breakfasted  at  the  chateau  of 
Boves,  belonging  to  Bareness  de  Vaubert,  who  did  a  great 
deal  for  the  wounded. 

We  visited,  in  Boves^  the  English  Colonel  Cox  and  his  wife, 
who  had  there  a  depot  of  the  International  Society  for  the  aid 
of  the  wounded  Though  the  sympathy  of  these  English  was 
said  tc  be  more  with  the  French  than  with  us  I  cannot  com- 
plain that  they  showed  any  partiality,  but  have  only  to  acknow- 
ledge their  readiness  to  assist  us,  and  their  doing  so  with  no 
nnt,  but  in  tl.  most  Hberal  manner  I  received  from  them, 
amongst  oth  .  things,  several  fine  surgical  instruments  and 
also  a  -plendid  ;  npntation  case,  which  I  gave  to  Dn  von 
Kiihlewetter,  P'-ofessor  Busch's  skilful  assistant. 

Cclonel  Cox  was  a  tall,  thin,  particularly  English-looking 
P^nglirhman,  and  Mrs.  Cox  a  little,  very  active,  English  lady. 
I  shall  have  to  mention  them  on  another  occasion,  where  they 
rendered  us  the  most  important  services  in  great  need.  They 
gave  us  now  a  whole  waggon-load  of  excellent  things,  amongst 
which  were  many  delicacies  and  a  good  quantity  of  very  valu- 


S4i4i  Ten  Feai     of  my  Life. 

able  condensed  milk,  all  of  which  I  sent  to  the  hospital  in 
Sains,  were  still  were  one  hundred  and  eighty  severely  wounded. 

General  von  Manteufifel  visited  all  the  hospitals,  and  spoke 
kindly  to  the  wounded,  conl^incing  himself  that  they  were 
cared  for.  There  were  four  hundred  in  the  Museum  ;  a  most 
beautiful  building,  built  by  Napoleon  III.,  containing  very 
fine  pictures  and  statutes,  of  which  many  were  gifts  of  the  Em- 
peror and  Empress.  The  library  had  nlso  been  fiUed  up  as  a 
hospital.  With  these  wounded  in  Amiens,  Moreuil,  and  Sains, 
we  had  always  plenty  of  occupation.  -  - 

On  December  7,  we  all  started  for  Rouen,  and  arrived  in 
Granvillers  in  a  great  snowstorm  :  it  was  very  agreeable  for  us 
that  we  got  good  quarters  in  a  hotel,  for  we  needed  refresh- 
ment. We  met  here  a  clerg}man,  the  Divisions  Prediger 
Clansiiis,  who  was  excellent  company,  and  nodespiser  of  good 
champagne,  which  agreed  very  well  with  his  cloth,  especially 
as  he  did  not  like  to  drink  it  alone. 

Next  day  we  came  to  La  Feuille,  where  we  were  quartered 
in  the  chateau  belonging  to  Baron  Gaston  de  Joubert,  which 
offer.'^d  -»,  sad  spectacle,  for  it  looked  like  a  plucked  hen.  All 
the  o'^Vc?  were  broken  open,  and  over  the  floor  were  scattered 
a  gr=?tx*,  variety  of  things,  as  dresses,  bonnets,  shawls,  slippers, 
children's  toys,  books,  and  hundreds  of  other  objects  too  long 
to  mention. 

An  old  man-servant  of  the  house  was  very  sorry  for  his 
masters.  With  tears  in  his  eyes  he  fetched  from  a  corner  a 
picture  representing  a  beautiful  lady,  saying,  '  Look,  this  is  my 
sweet  mistress  ;  and  God  knows  what  she  will  do  when  she 
returns  and  finds  her  home  destroyed  in  this  manner.'  I  do 
not  know  what  troops  committed  this  act  of  barbarity,  or  the 
reason  of  it. 

The  mayor  sent  us  supper  and  bed-linen,  but  we  felt  very 
cold  and  desolate ;  for  in  the  room  in  which  I  was  sleeping 
with  Miss  Runkel  the  stove  was  worse  than  no  stove,  for  it 
smoked  and  no  fire  could  be  made. 

We  arrived  in  Rouen  on  December  9,  late  in  the  evening, 
and  had  to  dislodge  three  oihcers  who  had  taken  possession 
of  our  quarters.  When  we  went  out  next  day  to  look  at  the 
cathedral  we  were  struck  by  the  appearance  of  the  people, 
who  stared  at  us  with  such  burning  hatred  in  their  eyes  that  it 
was  quite  painful.     The  streets  were  crowded  with    hundreds 


General  von  Manteuffel.  345 

of  beggars,  who  all  looked  more  like  robbers.  Most  of  them 
were  workmen  out  of  work,  and  the  citizens  were  very  much 
afraid  they  would  plunder  the  city  if  we  left  it. 

In  the  museum  we  found  a  portrait  of  a  Prince  Croy,  who 
had  been  archbishop  of  Rouen,  and  whose  tomb,  with  a  beau- 
tiful monument,  is  in  the  cathedral. 

Sunday,  the  nth,  I  called  with  Miss  Runkel  on  General 
von  Manteuffel  to  ask  him  for  an  order  for  woollen  things,  of 
which  the  wounded  were  much  in  need,  as  it  was  very  cold. 
Though  I  had  seen  the  general  often,  this  was  the  first  time  I 
spoke  with  him.  Hearing  that  the  want  of  cigars  was  badly 
felt  by  the  officers,  and  having  still  about  seven  hundred  left, 
I  proposed  an  exchange  for  woollen  things,  which  were  easily 
to  be  had,  a?-  they  were  manufactured  in  Rouen,  and  he 
accepted,  much  amused  with  my  talent  for  trade,  giving  me  an 
order  for  the  things  I  required. 

Our  staying  in  Rouen  was  by  no  means  pleasant,  for  the 
people  hated  us  intensely,  and,  if  they  really  had  had  an  idea 
how  weak  we  were,  they  might  have  captured  all  of  us,  for,  in 
fact,  there  were  no  soldiers  in  the  city  except  the  staff  and  the 
wounded. 

We  all  were  glad  when  we  had  Rouen  behind  us  without 
shots  being  sent  after  us,  for  it  was  believed  by  several  that  we 
should  not  be  permitted  to  pass  the  gate. 

We  marched  out  on  the  17th,  and  near  Le  Heron  we  were 
quartered  in  the  house  of  M.  Auguste  Renard,  the  mayor,  an 
old  man  of  seventy-two,  who  had  been  taken  by  our  troops 
and  condemned  to  be  shot  as  a  spy  ;  but  General  von  Goeben 
had  investigated  the  case,  and  he  came  off  with  the  fright.  On 
the  1 8th  we  were  in  Marseille-le-Petit,  and  the  following  day 
in  Bretuil,  from  whence  we  next  day  were  to  return  to  Amiens 
to  re-occupy  it.  The  citadel  had  always  remained  occupied  by 
our  troops. 

On  December  23  we  received  from  headquarters  the  notice 
to  prepare  ourselves  for  a  battle.  The  French  barred  our 
road,  and  had  taken  a  rather  favorable  position  in  the  village 
of  Querriere  and  the  heights  behind  it.  We  advanced  on  the 
main  road  leading  to  that  place,  but  when  arrived  at  a  house 
which  was  about  six  miles  from  it,  we  were  ordered  to  stay 
tliere  and  wait  for  further  orders.  It  was  towards  eleven 
o'clock,  a.m.,  when  we  had  to  advance  again  until  we  saw  the 


846  Ten  Years  of  ony  Life. 

village  of  Querriere  about  a  musket-shot  before  us,  and  our 
troops  forming  for  the  attack.  It  was  as  wonderful  a  winter 
day  as  I  have  ever  seen.  The,  sun  was  shining  brightly,  though 
it  was  cold,  and  the  snow  appeal-ed  like  sparkling  silver.  The 
columns  of  our  infantry  advanced  in  the  regular  and  steady 
manner  I  had  seen  often  in  our  manoeuvres  near  Coblentz 
and  Cologne 

Professor  Busch  looked  out  for  a  proper  site  to  establish  a 
'  Verbandplatz.'  There  stood  a  little  house  on  the  road,  a 
shoemaker's  shop,  which  seemed  convenient ;  it  was  in  every 
way  a  better  place  than  any  in  the  field,  offering  protection 
against  the  cold,  which  would  have  rendered  any  operations 
nearly  impossible.  The  house  had  already  attracted  the 
attention  of  some  other  ambulance  party  arriving  before  us, 
but  after  much  deliberation,  hastened  by  some  bullets,  it  was 
considered  too  near  the  front  and  given  up.  Professor  Busch, 
however,  seeing  no  other  place  near,  decided  on  establishmg 
ourselves  there,  trusting  to  chance  and  good  luck. 

Some  slightly  wounded  were  already  there,  and,  as  the 
place  was  very  confined  and  they  had  to  remain  outside, 
where  they  were  exposed  to  being  wounded  again,  the  pro- 
fessor wished  to  have  them  carried  back  to  the  place  where  we 
had  stopped  at  first  for  further  orders.  No  means  of  transpor- 
tation being  at  hand,  I  offered  my  light  carriage,  and  Frank, 
the  coachman,  drove  several  times  to  the  house  on  the  road, 
and  went  afterwards  even  on  the  battle-field,  in  'he  rear  of 
our  advancing  troops,  to  pick  up  some  wounded. 

Our  house  was  very  small  and  consisted  of  only  two  narrow 
rooms.  We  had,  of  course,  brought  with  us  all  necessary 
things,  and  arranged  these  rooms  as  a  '  Verbandplatz.'  The 
floor  of  one  of  them  was  covered  with  straw,  being  reserved 
exclusively  for  those  who  were  wounded  beyond  any  hope  and 
must  die.  In  the  other  room  were  placed  the  tables  tor 
amputation. 

The  wounded  were  brought  in  in  great  numbers,  and 
amongst  them  were  sixteen  deadly  wounded,  who  were  laid  in 
ihe  afore-mentioned  room  to  die.  These  w^re  mostly  those 
that  had  received  wounds  in  the  body,  and  who  bled  mwardly 
to  death.  They  did  not  suffer  so  much  as  those  whose  limbs 
were  shattered,  and  had,  therefore,  no  idea  of  the  danger  of 
their  situation 


A  Sad  Case.  347 

Amongst  those  deadly  wounded  was  a  young  soldier 
wounded  by  a  piece  of  a  shell  in  the  abdomen.  The  pro- 
fessor saw  at  once  that  there  was  no  hope  ;  he  therefore  only 
stuffed  as  much  lint  as  possible  into  the  fearful  wound,  and 
had  him  laid  aside  on  the  straw.  The  poor  man,  who  did  not 
feel  much  pain,  believed  himself  neglected,  and  when  I  came 
to  look  after  him  he  complained  to  me  that  the  wounds  of  the 
others  that  came  after  him  were  dressed  ;  he  wanted  to  be 
dressed  also,  and  to  be  sent  back  to  the  hospital  at  Amiens, 
&c. 

Poor  fellovv'  I  It  would  have  been  too  cruel  to  tell  him  that 
he  must  die  ;  and  the  Professor  told  me  to  give  him  some 
morphine  and  whatever  he  wanted  to  drink. 

Alas,  we  had  nothing  to  drink,  neither  wine  nor  brandy  ; 
and  it  was  so  much  required  by  the  wounded  and  others  too, 
tor  it  was,  as  I  said,  very  cold.  There  arrived  help  at  the 
right  moment ;  an  English  captain,  sent  by  Colonel  Cox, 
brought  us  a  whole  waggon-load  oi  good  things,  as  port  wine, 
sherry,  brandy,  whiskey,  biscuits,  condensed  milk,  etc.,  not 
forgetting  warm  blankets  and  warm  clothing.  This  Interna- 
tional Society  was  indeed  a  blessing  to  us,  and  they  were 
everywhere  at  the  different  '  Verbandplatze.'  I  am  sorry  that 
I  have  not  retained  the  names  of  the  gentlemen  who  rendered 
us  such  good  services  ;  but  in  fact  I  was  too  much  occupied 
always  to  inquire,  and  did  not  know  even  the  names  of  many 
with  whom  1  worked  together  for  weeks.  1  remember,  how- 
ever, that  of  an  American,  Mr.  Goodenough,  also  belonging 
to  the  Internationgil  Society,  and  the  person,  though  not  the 
name,  of  a  young  Englishman  of  some  noble  family,  who 
made  himself  very  useful. 

The  English  captain  did  not  bring  provisions  for  the 
wounded  only  ;  it  had  not  been  forgotten  that  other  people 
would  require  refreshments  also,  and  there  was  plentv. 

We  all  had  our  hands  full  of  work,  for  Professor  Busch  had 
to  perform  nine  amputations ;  and  in  the  other  room  on  the 
straw  were  lying  sixteen  mortally  wounded,  who  all  died  there. 
I  assisted  at  all  the  amputations  by  chloroforming  the  men  ; 
made  hot  water,  washed  off  the  blood,  and  cleaned  the 
sponges,  knives,  and  other  surgical  instruments,  etc.,  whilst 
soldier  servants  carried  in  the  wounded,  fetched  water  and 
what  else  was  required. 


o4'b>  Ten  Years  of  my  Life, 

We  were  too  busy  to  pay  much  attention  to  the  sound  of 
shells  passing  over  our  house,  for  Professor  Busch  said  it 
would  be  time  enough  to  think  of  our  security  when  a  shell 
should  strike  the  roof,  which,  hovvever,  fortunately  did  not  hap- 
pen. The  things  going  on  ojitside  were  interesting  enough  to 
attract  my  curiosity,  and  whenever  I  had  a  moment  to  spare, 
wanting  some  fresli  air,  I  went  outside  to  see  how  the  battle 
was  going  on.  This  was,  however,  a  rather  dangerous  curi- 
osity, which  cost  much  to  the  division  pastor,  Rev.  Mr.  Gross, 
from  Coblentz.  He  had  attended  to  his  merciful  duty,  com- 
forting some  dying,  and  went  to  the  corner  of  the  house  to  take 
some  air,  when  he  was  struck  by  a  bullet  and  rather  severely 
wounded. 

The  scene  was  a  most  lively  one,  for  every  moment  wounded 
arrived,  or  officers  of  the  staff  running  with  messages  to  different 
places,  stopping  for  a  moment  at  our  house  and  accepting 
gratefully  some  much-needed  refreshment. 

Our  house  became  soon  too  full,  and  many  poor  wounded 
had  to  remain  for  hours  outside  in  the  bitter  cold,  until  rough 
peasant  carts  arrived  to  carry  them  to  the  hospital  in  Amiens, 
where  Miss  Runkel  had  remained.  Professor  Busch  and  all 
of  us  felt  the  greatest  pity,  and  were  quite  distressed  when  we 
saw  the  poor  amputated  carried  like  sheep  in  these  rough  vehi- 
cles, in  which  they  suffered  immensely  on  their  long  drive  to 
Amiens,  which  was  more  than  ten  English  miles  off. 

I  regretted  much  the  want  of  such  ambulances  as  we  had  in 
America,  and  which  were  so  immensely  useful.  At  some  other 
part  of  this  work  I  have  spoken  about  them  ^nd  other  Ameri- 
can sanitary  arrangements,  to  which  I  refer. 

Querriere  was  taken  by  our  troops,  and  darkness  ended  the 
battle,  but  not  our  work  ;  but  much  could  not  be  done  by  the 
light  of  the  candles  which  we  found  a:nongst  thd  provisions 
brought  by  these  kind,  thoughtful  English  people.  We  were, 
hovvever,  utterly  exhausted  ;  wrapt  up  in  our  work,  we  did  not 
feel  that  we  were  hungry  and  thirsty  ;  but  now  nature  would 
have  its  due.  A  tired  and  hungry  doctor  from  some  other  sta- 
tion dropped  in,  and  so  did  several  officers  ;  we  were  about  a 
dozen  persons  in  the  little  room. 

I  rinsed  the  kettle  I  had  used,  and  with  condensed  milk  I 
made  some  splendid  chocolate.  The  amputation  table  was 
superficially  wiped  with  straw;  and  sitting  and  standing  around 


Birthday  Celebration.  349 

it  we  enjoyed  our  chocolate  and  English  biscuits,  whilst  in  the 
next  room  were  sixteen  dead  and  dying,  and  in  the  corner  of 
our  room  a  heap  of  cut-oft  arms  and  legs. 

It  was  past  eight  p.m.  when  we,  tired  as  hunters,  arrived  in 
Amiens,  not  however  to  rest  or  sleep,  for  much  work  awaited 
us  in  the  museum.  Of  course  the  wounds  had  been  dressed 
on  the  battle-field  in  a  hurried  manner,  and  had  to  be  re- 
dressed again  now.  Poor  surgeon-general  Dr.  Wagner,  of  the 
second  army  corps,  who  died  afterwards  of  typhus,  Professor 
Busch,  some  other  doctors,  Miss  Runkel,  and  myself  worked 
until  three  o'clock  a.m.,  when  we  went  to  our  well-earned  rest, 
— but  only  for  three  hours.  At  six  o'clock  next  morning  we 
were  up  again,  for  a  renewal  of  the  battle  was  expected  ;  but 
as  there  was  only  slight  skrimishing  going  on,  and  doctors 
enough  in  the  field.  Dr.  Busch  thought  chat  his  presence  would 
be  of  more  avail  in  the  hospital. 

Amongst  the  many  wounded  was  an  artilleryman,  whose 
face  was  one  black  mass,  a  hardened  crust  covering  it  like  a 
vizor.  One  hand  was  also  burnt,  and  his  foot  was  pierced  by 
a  long  shaft  of  iron,  torn  off  from  the  carriage  of  the  gun 
when  the  caisson  exploded,  being  struck  by  a  shot.  The  Pro- 
fessor feared  that  he  would  lose  both  his  eyes,  but  gave  him  in 
charge  of  Miss  Runkel,  who,  with  the  greatest  patience, 
bathed  his  poor  eyes  with  a  sponge  to  soften  the  crust,  and 
after  many  days  she  at  last  succeeded  in  removing  it.  Lifting 
with  a  little  lint  the  much  swollen  eyelids.  Miss  Runkel  was 
delighted  on  hearing  him  exclaim  that  he  could  see.  His  eyes 
were  indeed  saved,  and  his  other  wounds  also  healed. 

The  25th  of  December  was  poor  Felix's  birthday  and  mine 
also;  it  was  the  first  1  had  passed  without  him,  and  I  was 
extremely  sad.  To  overcome  my  thoughts,  I  worked  all  day 
in  the  hospital.  Somebody  had  told  my  good  landlady  that  it 
was  my  birthday,  and  she  invited  all  my  friends  to  a  celebra- 
tion dinner  at  seven  o'clock  p.m.,  but  I  could  not  take  part  in 
it,  though  my  brother-in-law  was  rather  angry  with  me,  for  my 
non-appearance  grieved  the  kind  people  of  the  house.  Next 
day,  however,  when  the  birthday  of  Prince  Alfred  was  cele- 
brated, I  could  not  refuse. 

I  had  arranged  in  Amiens  a  kind  of  private  hospital  of  my 
own,  where  were  lying  officers  ill  with  typhus,  to  whom,  after 
the  battle,  were  added  some  wounded.     Amongst  these  latter, 


850  Ten   Years  of  my  Life. 

but  in  the  '  Petit  Lyce'e '  hospital,  was  a  young  officer  from 
Coblentz,  a  friend  of  ours,  Count  Luttichau,  and  also  a  Captain 
Voelkel.  Both  ol  them  had  young  wives,  and  their  only 
thought  was  with  them,  and  ever  and  again  they  wished  to 
have  them  near  their  bed.  I  therefore  promised  to  telegraph 
for  them  ;  but  found  it  very  difficult  to  keep  my  promise,  for  I 
had  to  go  to  many  persons  and  at  last  to  apply  for  permission 
to  the  commander  of  the  army  himself 

The  wounded  were  happy  when  I  told  them  that  I  had  tele- 
graphed, and  they  counted  the  hours.  Whenever  poor 
Luttichau  heard  me  he  opened  his  large  black  eyes  and  asked 
with  such  a  longing  voice  whether  his  dear  wife  had  not  ar- 
rived yet.  Travelling  in  that  time,  was,  however,  a  difficult 
thing,  depending  on  chance  and  taxing  patience  to  the  utmost. 
Both  Countess  Luttichau  and  Mrs.  Voelkel  bved  in  Coblentz. 
The  latter  being  retained  by  some  circumstance  or  other,  the 
countess  started  alone,  and  arrived  on  the  morning  when  poor 
Captain  Voelkel  died.  About  twelve  hours  later  in  the  middle 
of  the  night,  when  I  was  already  in  bed,  somebody  knocked 
at  my  door  ;  it  was  Mrs.-  Captain  Voelkel ;  I  felt  so  very  sorry 
for  the  poor  young  wife,  who  was  quite  stiff  with  cold,  for  the 
weather  was  very  severe,  and  I  gave  up  my  bed  to  hei. 

The  young  widow  wanted  to  take  the  body  oi  her  husband 
home  ;  and  I  had  to  run  about  to  the  prefecture,  the  head- 
quarters, to  order  a  coffin,  etc.,  and  all  the  people  employed 
m  that  sad  affair  came  to  me.  Countess  Luttichau  was  more 
fortunate,  she  had  the  happiness  to  nurse  her  husband  and  see 
him  recover. 

In  the  commencement  of  January  we  received  notice  to 
provide  proper  accommodation  for  General  von  Blankensee, 
who  had  typhoid  fever.  The  general,  who  had  been  suffering 
already  some  time  from  fever,  would  not  admit  that  he  was  ill, 
but  at  last  when  he  became  delirious,  he  had  t^  go'to  Amiens. 
On  his  arrival,  and  descending  from  the  carriage,  two  soldiers 
offered  to  assist  him,  but  he  shook  them  off  impatiently,  saying 
that  he  was  not  so  ill  and  weak  that  he  could  not  walk  alone, 
and  collecting  all  his  strength  he  really  did  ;  but  he  was  so 
wasted  and  pale  that  it  was  pitiful  to  look  at  him. 

As  he  felt  uncomfortable  in  the  narrow  hospital  bed  and 
wished  for  a  wider  one,  I  tried  to  satisfy  him,  ari  could  not 
manage  it  in  any  other  manner  than  by  enterini^  with  some 


Voluntary  ThanJcs.  351 

soMiers  an  hotel  and  helping  myself  to  a  good  convenient  bed. 
The  landlord  lavished  a  whole  flood  of  French  exclamations 
and  complained  at  the  prefecture  ;  but  the  prefect,  Count 
Lehndorf,  did  not  deal  very  severely  with  me,  and  the  general 
retained  his  bed.  He  was  indeed  very  ill,  and  I  nursed  him 
with  great  care,  myself  cooking  for  him.  He,  however, 
wanted  to  see  his  dear  good  wife,  and  the  thought  of  her  did 
not  leave  his  mind  for  a  moment.  As  he  was  so  dangerously 
ill,  we  telegraphed  for  her ;  but  she  lived  far  away  in  Germany, 
and  day  passed  after  day,  each  probably  appearing  to  the  poor 
general  like  a  week.  At  last  she  arrived  after  eight  days,  and 
the  joy  of  her  husband  was  great ;  he  repeated  over  and  over 
again,  '  I  knew  she  would  come,  I  knew  it.'  I  arranged  a 
small  adjoining  room  for  her,  and  he  had  at  last  the  consola- 
tion of  dying  in  the  arms  of  his  beloved  wife,  a  few  days  after 
her  arrival.  The  poor  woman  was  nearly  heartbroken,  and  her 
:     ^erings  opened  all  the  wounds  of  my  heart ;  it  was  almost 

,/ond  my  strength. 

All  these  ladies  wrote  afterwards  kind  letters  to  me,  thank- 
ing me  for  the  care  I  had  bestowed  on  their  husbands,  and  the 
little  services  I  was  enabled  to  render  them.  Though  I  did 
not  go  to  the  tield  to  satisfy  my  vanity  or  earn  any  praise,  I 
felt  gratified  by  such  letters,  of  which  I  received  many  even 
from  private  soldiers,  who,  when  at  home  amongst  their 
families,  remembered  that  I  had  dressed  their  wounds,  taken 
care  for  their  comfort  and  spoken  kind  words  to  them. 

In  the  night  of  January  4,  we  were  ordered  to  Albert,  near 
which  place  a  fight  had  Occurred  in  which  the  8th  regiment  of 
cuirassiers  had  been  engaged.  It  was  bitter  cold  when  Pro- 
fessor Busch,  Dr.  von  Kiihlewetter,  Prince  Alfred  and  myself 
drove  there.  We  found  in  Albert,  Captain  von  Marien,  of  the 
8th  cuirassiers,  who  lay  in  a  private  house.  He  was  very 
badly  wounded,  and  the  Professor  decided  that  he  must  suffer 
an  amputation.  Whilst  the  Professor  cut  off  his  leg  I  chloro- 
formed him,  and  afterwards  the  captain  requested  me  to 
telegraph  to  Deutz  for  his  wite,  which  was  done  from  Amiens, 
where  I,  however,  could  not  go  myself,  as  we  were  wanted  in 
Bapaume.  A  fight  had  taken  place  near  that  town  on  the 
2nd  and  3rd,  and  on  evacuating  it  the  Freneh  had  carried  oif 
our  wounded. 

As  we  entered  Bapaume  the  alarum  was  sounding,  fur  it  had 


352  Ten   Years  of  my  Life. 

been  reported  that  the  French  were  advancing.  Whoever  has 
not  seen  such  a  scene  cannot  imaghie  it.  The  place  was  only 
occupied  by  cavalry,  commanded  by  General  Count  Groeben. 
When  we  entered  his  headquarters  the  General  had  left,  but 
we  found  in  the  kitchen  his  distracted  cook,  the  roast  on  the 
spit  and  a  good  meal  in  preparation.  When  1  saw  him  pack 
up  the  half-cooked  meat,  and  everything  he  could  grab  in  his 
hurry,  I  stopped  him,  requesting  him  to  run  if  he  liked  behind 
his  general,  but  to  leave  us  the  victuals,  for  Bapaume  looked 
as  if  there  was  nothing  eatable  to  be  had  in  it.  The  cook 
defended  manfully  his  general's  dinner,  but  yielding  to  my 
persuasion  and  perseverance  we  at  last  secured  a  sufticient 
supply.  The  French,  however,  did  not  come  that  time,  and 
Count  Groeben  had  been  airing  himself  all  day  for  nothing. 

We  heard  that  the  French  had  carried  our  wounded  to  a 
village  not  far  off,  where  they  were  left,  the  French  having 
evacuated.  These  wounded,  about  one  hundred,  we  found  in 
the  most  miserable  state.  I'hey  had  been  carried  off  from 
Bapaume  on  horseback,  or  thrown  pell-mell  into  carts,  and 
though  many  of  them  were  very  severely  wounded  their 
wounds  were  not  dressed  for  several  days.  Amongst  them  was 
Captain  von  Butler,  who  had  a  shot  through  his  lungs.  After 
having  examined  him  Professor  Busch  told  me  that  there  was 
no  hope,  and  requested  me  to  give  him  a  dose  of  morphine  to 
comtort  him,  and  do  what  was  possible,  but  die  he  must ;  and 
so  he  did. 

The  wounded  were  all  brought  to  a  convent,  forming  a  part 
of  a  building  used  as  a  barrack,  and  in  communication  with  it. 
After  the  wounded  had  had  their  wounds  dressed,  my  first  care 
was  to  look  out  for  something  for  them  to  eat.  I  found  in 
the  kitchen  a  man,  Heinrich,  whom  I  had  often  seen,  as  he 
was  head-waiter  at  Perron's,  a  fine  restaurant  in  Bonn,  and 
who  had  volunteered  to  go  to  the  war  as  a  cook.  I  knew  him 
to  be  a  practical,  handy  man,  having  met  him  before  in  the 
war  and  admired  the  good  care  which  he  took  of  the  wounded 
in  a  hospital  to  which  he  was  attached.  He  was  very  service- 
able now  ;  he  cooked  for  the  poor  wounded,  and  assisted  me, 
and  I  was  always  pleased  when  I  saw  him  occasionally  at 
Perron's,  where  he  is  still  head-waiter. 

Looking  about  in  the  convent  serving  us  as  hospital,  I  en- 
tered a  darkened  little  room,  where  I  found  a  bed  w'.th  some- 


Return  to  Amiens.  353 

body  in  it.  On  examining  the  patient,  I  started  back  rather 
frightened,  when  looking  in  the  black  face  of  a  Frenchman, 
left  there  ill  with  the  small-pox. 

We  remained  a  night  and  a  day  in  Bapaume,  when  again 
came  news  of  an  advance  of  the  French,  and  General  Groeben 
left  with  his  troops.  We  started  several  hours  after  him,  and 
the  French  arrived,  only  much  later,  having  ascertained  that 
the  Prussians  had  evacuated  the  place. 

I  returned  to  Amiens.  I  found  plenty  of  work  in  the 
museum,  where  we  had  about  live  hundred  wounded  brought 
from  different  places,  mostly  in  a  st3.te  of  exhaustion,  and 
the  Professor  urgently  demanded  that  they  should  be  well 
nourished  and  have  between  their  regular  meals  each,  bread 
and  butter,  with  meat,  and  a  glass  of  wine,  which  gave  Miss 
Runkel  ancj  myself  enough  to  do. 

Poor  General  Blankensee  died,  as  I  mentioned  before,  and 
Mrs.  von  Blankensee  wanted  to  take  home  his  body,  Mrs. 
Captain  von  Marien  had  also  arrived,  accompanied  by  Mrs. 
von  L ,  her  friend,  and  a  nun,  with  a  letter  of  recom- 
mendation from  Colonel  von  Wedell,  the  staff  commander  of 
Cologne,  an  old  friend  of  mine,  who  sent  everybody  to  me. 
Though  I  had  scarcely  a  minute  to  spare  and  my  usual  duties 
were  fatiguing  me  to  the  utmost  limit  of  my  strength,  I  had 
not  only  to  comfort  these  poor  afflicted  wives,  but  also  to  ad- 
vise them  and  to  attend  to  their  most  triffling  affairs,  as  they 
were  amongst  us  like  the  babes  in  the  wood. 

Mrs.  von  Marien,  who  was  very  delicate  and  nervous,  of 
course  wanted  to  be  with  her  wounded  husband  in  Albert,  but 
on  hearing  that  it  was  again  occupied  by  the  French,  she  be- 
came frightened  and  undecided,  went  many  times  out  and  in 
the  carriage,  until  at  last  her  love  conquered,  and  she  went  off 

with  the  nun  ;  her  friend  Mrs.  von  L ,  whose  husband  was 

also  a  captain  in  the  cavalry,  remained  behind,  and  Count 
Lehndorf  kindly  provided  quarters  for  her  in  the  town-hall, 
where  she  had  the  pleasure  of  seeing  her  husband,  whilst  her 
friend  nursed  and  comforted  Captain  von  Marien,  who  died 
however. 

Calling  one  day  on  Count  Lehndorf  on  some  business,  I 
had  a  pain  in  my  back  and  a  dreadful  headache.  The  Count 
on  looking  in  my  face  exclaimed,  quite  alarmed,  '  For  God's 
sake,  Princess,  what  is   the  matter  with  you  ?    Have  you  not 

V 


f»  -■ 


54  Ten  Years  of  my  Life. 

seen  your  face  ?  Go  home  at  once,  and  to  bed,  for  you  are 
very  ill' 

I  had  not  seen  my  face  that  morning,  for  I  could  do  my 
hair  and  toilet  without  a  looi:ing-glass  ;  it  was  red  and  inflamed 
all  over,  and  returning  to  my  quarters  I  at  once  sent  for  Pro- 
fessor Busch.  When  he  looked  at  me  he  made  a  rather  long, 
serious  face,  for  I  had  caught  the  small-pox  in  Bapaume  from 
the  Frenchman  who  had  been  left  behicd  in  the  hospital. 

Prince  Alfred  was  quite  beside  himself.  The  Professor  did 
not  give  me  any  other  medicine  but  hot  milk,  as  much  as  I 
could  drink,  and  I  am  happy  to  say  that  the  thing  turned  out 
better  than  any  of  us  expected,  owing,  as  the  doctor  said,  to 
my  healthy  blood  and  good  condition.  I  did  not  get  the 
black  small-pox,  but  a  more  harmless  kind,  which  left  only 
three  little  marks  on  my  face. 

When  we  on  the  i6th  of  January  received  marching  orders 
for  Peronne,  where  a  skirmish  had  occurred,  and  a  battle  was 
expected,  I  had  been  in  bed  only  four  days,  and  Professor 
Busch  said,  if  I  got  up  and  caught  a  cold  I  should  die.  I  did 
not,  however,  care  if  I  did,  and  left  also  for  Peronne,  where 
General  von  Memerty  was  severely  wounded,  and  lying  in  a 
private  house.  He  had  a  shot  in  the  same  place  as  that  from 
which  poor  Captain  von  Marien  died,  and  when  Professor 
Busch  examined  the  state  of  the  wound  he  said  that  it  was  too 
late  for  amputation,  and  ordered  a  plaster  of  Paris  bandage, 
vWiich  I  prepared.  When  it  was  done.  Dr.  von  Klihlewetter 
asked  me  in  a  whisper,  '  What  do  you  say,  Princess,  will  he 
die?'  I  shook  my  head  and  said  confidently,  'He  will  live.' 
The  doctor  believed  in  my  faculty  for  seeing  life  or  death  in 
the  face  of  a  patient,  having  been  always  correct  in  my  pro- 
phecies. I  cheered  up  the  general  who  eagerly  looked  in  my 
eyes,  and  told  him  that  everything  would  go 'well  with  him. 
He  said  afterwards,  that  the  expression  of  my  eyes  had  given 
him  great  comfort  and  confidence,  adding  some  compliments 
to  these  eyes,  which  of  course  pleased  me  because  they  were 
honestly  meant. 

We  found  in  Peronne  about  three  hundred  wounded,  all  in 
a  very  miserable  state.  Professor  Buscli  said  that  they  must 
be  taken  to  Amiens,  but  have  something  to  eat  before  leaving. 
There  was  nothing  to  be  had  in  that  utterly  devastated  place, 
and  we  were  in  despair,  when  again  our  good  English  friends 


In  Peronne.  355 

came  to  our  assistance.  They  brought  us  a^reat  quantity  of 
good  things,  especially  potted  meat,  which  was  highly  welcome 
and  much  needed.  Poinding  in  the  kitchen  of  a  barrack  three 
large  boilers,  I  had  them  filled  with  water,  put  in  the  meat  and 
every  crust  of  bread  we  could  find,  and  with  this  I  made  a  good 
soup  with  whicu  Prince  Alfred  and  Miss  Runkel  fed  the  poor 
wounded.  Prince  Alfred  was  untiring  in  his  merciful  duties  as 
a  knigTit  of  Malta  ;  he  was  always  on  the  spot  day  and  night, 
and  doing  the  most  menial  services,  in  nursing,  not  only  the 
w^ounded,  but  especially  those  ill  with  typhus  or  small-pox,  of 
whom  there  were  a  great  number  amongst  the  French.  All  the 
patients  we  found  in  Peronne  were  placed  in  carts  and  con- 
veyed to  Amier 

People  reading  at  home  in  the  papers  of  battles  and  of  the 
number  of  dead  and  wounded,  cannot  easily  imagine  the  sights 
we  saw,  the  heartrending  scenes  through  which  we  had  to  pass, 
and  the  immense  deal  of  work  we  had  to  do.  When  evening 
came  we  were  often  utterly  exhausted.  One  night,  when  Prince 
Alfred  by  mere  chance  passed  a  yard,  he  saw  in  the  snow  a 
dark  human  form,  and  coming  near  he  found  Miss  Runkel 
senseless  on  the  ground.  Having  worked  all  day,  she  was  sitting 
at  the  bedside  of  a  wounded  man,  when  the  smell,  added  to  her 
exhausted  state,  became  too  much  for  her  ;  she  went  out  to  have 
some  fresh  air  and  fainted. 

Jimmy  the  dog  had  a  better  life  than  we  had.  In  Amiens 
he  did  not  hear  any  firing  and  was  happy  ;  but  I  suppose  he 
was  ashamed  at  being  so  idle,  or  the  war-fever  raging  around 
seized  him, — he  wanted  to  fight  the  French  on  his  part  also. 
One  day,  when  coming  with  me  out  of  the  ho~pital,  he  met  a 
large  Fr  nch  dog,  of  the  Newfoundland  breed,  carrying  a  basket 
in  his  mouth.  Jimmy  scarcely  saw  him  bef  ^  he  charged. 
The  large  Frenchman,  quietly  putting  down  his  basket,  caught 
poor  Jimmy  by  one  of  his  ears,  and  having  t^rn  out  a  piece,  he 
took  up  his  basket  again  and  trotted  off,  leaving  Jimmy  pro- 
fusely bleeding  in  my  arms.  Though  I  sympathized  greatly 
with  my  favourite's  defeat,  I  could  not  but  admire  his  big  enemy, 
which  was  the  most  dignified  Frenchman  I  ever  saw. 

On  J  nuary  19,  1871,  General  von  Goeben  beat  the  French 
in  the  battle  of  St.  Quentin,  in  the  most  decided  and  glorious 
manner.  They  were  commanded  by  General  Faidherbe,  re- 
placing General  Bourbaki,  who  was  left  to  be  beaten  somewhere 
else. 


S')Q  Ten  Years  of  my  Life. 

When  we  wept  to  St.  Quentin  we  passed  over  the  battlefield, 
which  was  still  strewn  with  dead  and  all  kinds  of  arms.  The 
ground  in  consequence  of  rains,  was  extremely  soft,  and  the 
French  found  it  just  as  hard  to  run  away  as  the  Prussians  to 
run  after  them.  Evidence  of  this  was  found  in  the  many  boots 
and  even  stockings  we  saw  sticking  in  the  mud. 

Arriving  in  St.  Quentin  we  did  not  find  General  Goeben,  as 
he  was  in  pursuit  of  the  nimble-footed  enemy.  We  took  up 
quarters  in  a  little  hotel  and  commenced  work.  A  hospital  had 
been  established  in  Le  Petit  Lycee,  where  we  had  nearly  five 
hundred  wounded. 

When  General  von  Goeben  returned  to  St.  Quentin  he  re- 
quired the  little  hotel  for  head-quarters,  and  we  had  to  look 
out  for  some  other  house.  It  was  found  by  Prince  Alfred  in  a 
splendid  place,  discovered  by  the  knights  of  St.  John,  who  had 
established  there  their  depot,  and  had  still  room  enough  for 
Professor  Busch  and  his  whole  party. 

This  house  belonged  to  the  family  of  Cambronne,  and  had 
been  locked  up  since  the  death  of  its  last  proprietor.  It  was 
very  spacious  and  provided  with  a  very  well  supplied  wine- 
cellar  and  othei  provisions.  Amongst  other  things  I  discovered, 
behind  a  carefully-locked  door  which  attracted  my  attention,  a 
great  quantity  of  preserves,  fruit,  jellies,  and  jams,  which  I  ac- 
quired in  the  regular  way  of  requisition  for  my  wounded ;  and 
the  same  was  the  case  in  reference  to  the  wine-cellar,  from 
which  a  good  number  of  bottles  were  used  for  the  hospital 

I  have  already  said  that  there  was  not  much  love  lost  between 
the  knights  of  St.  John  and  the  doctors  The  former  a^^sumed 
an  authority  to  which  the  doctors  would  not  submit,  as  it 
became  indeed  sometimes  very  troublesome  and  hindering  ;  the 
knights  indignant  at  this  want  of  respect,  could  not  forbear, 
showing  their  displeasure,  and  annoying  the  doctors  whenever 
they  had  an  opportunity. 

M.  von  Brinken,  in  charge  of  the  depot  in  the  Hotel  Cam- 
bronne, in  order  to  show  that  the  knights  of  St.  John  were  not 
as  ignorant  and  unpractical  in  reference  to  the  arrangements 
required  for  a  hospital  as  these  irreverent  scientific  leeches  as- 
serted, had  resolved  to  establish  a  little  hospital  of  his  own, 
which  was  intended  to  become  a  kind  of  pattern  hospital.  As 
it  seemed,  however,  a  pity  to  place  the  wounded  in  the  mag- 
nificent house  itself,  the  hospital  was  established  in  a  rather 


A  Dodorless  Private  Hospital.  357 

dismal-looking  outhouse,  which  might  have  served  as  a  manu- 
factory  of  some  kind  or  other.  As  Professor  Busch  and  others, 
however,  found  that  the  site  of  this  outhouse  was  by  no  means 
healthy,  M.  von  Brinken  had  to  make  bonne  mijie  au  mauvaisjeu, 
and  transfer  the  wounded,  mostly  if  not  all  Saxons,  to  two 
splendid  halls  of  the  mansion  itself,  which  were  arranged  for 
that  purpose.  M.  von  Brinken,  had,  however,  counted  with- 
out his  host,  as  he  found  out  very  soon,  for  the  doctors,  who 
had  their  hands  full  at  the  great  hospital  in  the  Lycee  refused 

attend  the  private  hospital  in  the  Hotel  Cambronne. — • 
Though  Professor  Busch  lived  in  the  same  house,  and  now  and 
then  visited  the  wounded  lying  there,  he  had  more  important 
dimes,  which  occupied  him  nearly  all  day  somewhere  else  ; 
ad  M.  von  Brinken  had  no  other  assistance  than  that  of  Miss 
Runkel,  who  for  longer  than  a  week  worked  herself  nearly  to 
death.  She  wash^^d  herself  the  feet  of  her  twenty-six  patients, 
who  arrived  mostly  in  a  most  filthy  state,  before  she  placed  them 
ni  the  clean  beds,  and  dressed  their  wounds  to  her  best  abihty. 
She  had  also  to  cook  for  them  all,  and  even  to  carry  the  water. 
Only  much  later  she  got  a  French  woman  to  assist  her  in  these 
menial  duties.  I  could  do  for  her  but  little,  as  I  had  more  than 
enough  on  my  hands  with  my  five  hundred  wounded  in  the 
official  great  hospital. 

The  end  of  the  thing  was  that  t'le  knight  had  to  give  in  and 
to  break  up  his  doctorless  hospital,  removing  his  wounded  to 
the  Lycee,  \T)here  Miss  Runkel  took  especial  charge  oi  the 
officers'  ward. 

At  the  head  of  the  depot  of  the  knights  in  the  Hotel  Cam- 
bronne was,  as  said  before,  M.  von  Brinken,  who  was  followed 
later  by  Count  von  Sierstorpff,  and  besides  him  were  at  times 
other  knights  in  the  house,  as  Count  Schafgotsch,  Count 
Finkenstein  and  others,  with  whom  we  passed  some  most 
pleasant  hours  after  having  attended  the  duties  of  the  day. 
Mine  were  by  no  means  easy.  Leaving  the  dressing  of  the 
wounds  to  the  doctors  and  the  nurses,  I  made  it  again  my 
especial  duty  to  provide  for  the  nourishment  of  my  five  hun- 
dred people.  I  created  order  in  the  large  kitchen,  and  took 
care  to  have  my  larder  always  sufficiently  supplied. 

Before  I  left  in  the  evening  I  gave  out  what  was  required 
for  the  first  breakfast,  and  ordered  what  was  to  be  cooked  for 
dinner  next  day.    Early  in  the  morning  a  Carriage   furnished 


358  Ten  Years  0/  my  Life, 

by  the  Prefect  fetched  us  from  our  house.  Having  convinced 
myself  first  that  all  my  orders  had  been  executed,  I  prepared 
myself  the  lunch.  I,  with  two  assistants,  cut  bread  for  all  the 
five  hundred,  buttered  it,  and-  put  on  it  some  meat  or  jam. 
Before  I  left  for  my  ov/n  dinner  I  went  to  the  kitchen,  super- 
intended the  cooking  and  tasted  the  dinner  for  my  wound. d, 
giving  my  orders  for  special  cases. 

After  dinner,  when  the  w  unded  had  had  their  c  fi  I 
took  with  me  a  good  supply  of  cigars  from  the  stores  Oi  the 
knights,  and  went  through  the  different  wards  distributing  the 
cigars  myself,  not  trusting  always  the  attendants,  who  coveted 
this  rnuch  desired  article,  which  commenced  to  get  scarce. 
On  this  occasion  I  spoke  to  the  men,  inquiring  what  they  had 
had  for  lunch  and  dinner,  thus  making  sure  that  my  orders 
had  been  carried  out  properly.  Then  I  superintended  the 
preparations  for  supper,  and  having  made  my  arrangements, 
for  next  day,  I  went  home,  mostly  dead  beat.  If  I  had  much 
work  and  trouble  I  at  least  had  the  satisfaction  that  the  com- 
missary department  ot  the  hospital  was  in  excellent  order,  and 
that  everything  went  on  like  clock-work. 

Miss  Runkel  attended,  as  I  mentioned  before,  to  the 
wounded  officers.  When  she  had  ascertained  from  me  all  that 
was  to  be  had  next  day  lor  dinner,  she  went  with  this  mc-u 
to  the  officers  to  hear  wha  each  of  them  might  prefer,  and 
communicated  it  to  me. 

Thus  the  hospital  was  carried  on,  from  the  20th  of  January 
until  the  loth  of  February  when  I  left  for  Germany.  At  that 
time  the  r  'stice  had  been  concluded,  and  my  brother-in-law 
wished  to  ^o  home  to  look  after  his  family  and  his  private 
affairs,  and  his  eldest  son  Leopold  was  .^Iso  to  take  leave  of 
absence.  They  were  of  opinion  that  I  could  not  well  stay 
alone  behind. 

The  doctor  wished  Miss  Runkel  t )  remain  at  least,  promis- 
ing to  see  her  home  safely  after  peace  was  concluded  ;  but 
having  become  much  attached  to  me,  and  her  family  not  wish- 
ing her  to  remain  alone  with  the  army,  she  consented  to  return 
and  to  stay  with  me  as  my  friend  and  -companion. 

With  this  my  activity  in  the  war  ended.  I  did  my  duty  to 
the  best  of  my  ability,  and  if  I  may  trust  to  the  expressions  of 
thanks  in  many  letters  which  I  received,  I  am  justified  in 
believing  that  my  services  were  of  some  avail. 


Decorations.  35  9 

The  commander  of  the  army  to  which  I  was  attached,  Gen- 
eral von  Manteuftel,  who  had  observed  my  activity  both  in  the 
hu.  itals  and  in  the  battles  of  Moreuil  on  November  27th, 
aud  in  that  of  the  23rd  of  December  near  Querriere,  ordered 
the  surgeon-general  of  his  army,  Dr.  Westphal,  to  take  infor- 
niu-iion  in  reference  to  my  behaviour  and  activity  as  a  nurse. 
He  therefore  applied  officially  to  the  surgeon-general  of  the  8th 
c^rmy  corps,  Professor  Dr.  Busch,  and  after  having  received  a 
report  from  him  and  submitted  it  to  General  von  Manteuffel, 
•  i  latter  asked  for  me  from  His  Majesty  the  order  of  the  iron 
cross,  which  request  was  forwarded  to  Versailles  by  an  especial 
courier.  He  received,  however,  the  answer  that  this  order 
could  only  be  given  to  men,  but  that  a  decoration  for  the 
women  who  had  distinguished  themselves  in  the  war  would  be 
awarded  and  that  I  should  receive  it.  This  decoration  was 
bestowed  on  many  thousands  of  women  throughout  all  Ger- 
many, whether  they  worked  on  the  battlefield,  or  hundreds  of 
miles  away  from  it ;  and  as  it  could  only  be  awarded  according 
to  the  reports  made  by  local  authorities,  it  has  now  and  then 
been  given  to  persons  who  had  some  local  influence,  although 
their  exertions  for  the  army  were  rather  trifling. 

After  General  von  Manteuffel  had  gone  south,  General  von 
Goeben  commanded  the  2nd  army,  and  I  had  the  pleasure  of 
receiving  from  him  the  following  letter  : 

*  Amiens,  the  5th  March,  1871. 

*  In  reply  to  i-he  letter  received  from  your  Highness,  I,  on  your  parting 
from  here,  feel  urged  to  express  in  the  name  of  the  ist  army  the  thanks 
which  the  same  owes  to  you.  During  all  the  war  until  peace  your  High- 
ness has  with  the  utmost  self-sacrifice  uninterruptedly  kept  in  view  the 
difficult  task  which  you  undertook  voluntarily  at  the  commencement  of  the 
war,  and  has  benefited  thcsick  and  wounded  irv  the  most  efficient  manner. 
The  army  thanks  you  for  this  generous  devotion  from  thousands  of  hearts, 
and  as  I  have  the  honour  of  commanding  now  the  1st  army  I  beg  to  be 
allowed  to  express  to  your  Highness  this  thanks  in  the  name  of  all,  and 
especially  of  those  whom  the  careful  hand  of  your  Highness  has  nursed  and 
solaced  in  the  hard  days  of  suffering. 

'  Requesting  your  Highness  to  accept  the  assurance  of  the  greatest  respect, 
I  have  the  honour  of  remaining,  etc. 

'  (Signed)  von  Goeben, 

*  General  of  Infantry.' 


^GO  Ten   Years  of  my  Life. 

Having  asked  the  gallant  commander  of  the  2nd  army  corps. 
General  von  Fransecky,  for  his  photograph  for  my  album  of 
the  war,  I  received  trom  him  the  tollowing  letter,  which  I  pub- 
lish more  on  account  of  its  'distinguished  amiable  writer  than 
for  my  own  satislaction  : 

*  The  kind  letter  with  which  your  Highness  favoured  me  has  been  duly 
received  the  day  before  yesterday  here  in  Strasburg.  where  I  have  been 
since  a  few  days,  in  my  new  positioa  as  commanding  general  of  the  newly 
formed  15th  army  corps.  Thanking  you  for  it  very  i.  ^vtily  I  need  not 
add  that  its  reception^  as  a  visible  token  of  your  continued  fivour  and 
grace,  makes  me  very  happy.  I  have  ^ften  remembered  'he  ime,  in 
which  I  saw  your  Highness  work  with  such  devo^■"^  and  self-sacrificing, 
with  such  eftective  and  beneficial  activity  for  our  s  and  wounded  in  the 
hospitals  and  depots  at  Ars-sur-Moselle,  and  never  ceased  greatly  admiring 
and  thanking  you  for  it  ;  and  I  am  sure  that  at  home  many  grateful  heartr, 
will  still  reniember  you  for  a  long  time  afterwards,  and  proclaim  your 
praise  thankfully  and  honouring  you.  None  of  *he  many  noble  women, 
who  like  you  have  undertaken  to  care  for  and  nurse  the  wounded  m  the 
field  hospitals,  have  equalled  you  in  zeal ;  none  have  been  able  to  surpass 
you  in  success, — of  this  I  have  been  a  witness  !  The  reward  of  heaven 
will  and  cannot  fail  you,  and  the  dear  gracious  God  who  took  from  you 
yoiu"  husband  will  from  henceforth  let  spring  from  those  works  of  Christian 
charity  the  richer  blessings  !  He  will  be  your  protector  aiid  comfortor, 
when  and  where  you  should  feel  yourself  alone  !  ! 

*  It  was  very  amiable  and  gracious  of  you  to  follow  M'ith  your  thoughts 
myself  and  the  Pomeranian  Army  Corps  on  the  ways  which  fate  led  us  ju^.t 
before  Paris,  and  then  to  the  Swiss  frontier,  and  that  you  bestowed  your 
sympathies  and  praise  on  the  feats  of  arms  of  our  soldiers,  which  were 
favoured  and  rewarded  with  success  by  good  iuck.  Please  to  accept  f^r 
this  likewise  my  heartfelt  thanks.  It  is  a  fine  reward  •  a  soldier  to  hear 
from  the  lips  of  a  preiry  and  noble  lady  the  acknowledgment  of  having 
done  his  duty.     And  t/ici  we  have  done  all — but  not  morel 

'  Understanding  fully  your  griei  in  breaking  up  your  h  nn:^  in  Coblsntz. 
I  sympathise  with  it  liom  the  dep'h  of  my  heart.  In  the  liosom  of  your 
relatives  in  Anholt  I  hope  you  wiJl  find  that  rest  and  -comi  ^t  you  req"  -e 
so  much,  after  the  hard  times  ygu  had  since  the  summer  of  la  "•  year,  Also 
your  grief  will  be  soothed  there,  where  all  feel  it  so  deeply  wi  \  you  I 

'  Since  your  Highness  has  shown  such  iriendly  mtere^t  in  my  fortunes 
during  the  war,  I  may  suopose  that  my  transfer  from  the  2nd  to  the  15th 
Army  Corps  and  its  meaning  will  not  have  escaped  "Our  notice.  His 
Majesty  the  Emperor  and  King  in  placing  me  at  the  head  of  this  new 
army  corps  and  these  newly  acquired  countries,  intended  t-">  give  me  a 
proof  of  his  particular  confidence,  and  in  this  expression  I  feel  spurred  on 
anew  to  do  everything  in  my  power  to  make  myseit  worthy  of  this  confi- 
dence. The  task  which  I  found  to  be  accompUshed  here,  is,  however, 
very  difficult — and  until  now  I  do  not  see  anvthing  around  ine  but  chaos  ! 
I  feel,  however,  strong  in  my  good  will  and  confidence  and  re  iance  in 
myself — and  what  is  still  the  principal  thing,  in  God.  With  His  assistance 
I  hope  to  pull  through  ! 


General  Fransechjs  Letter.  SGI 

*  Herewith  I  beg  to  forward  the  ordered  pho<-ogrophs;  I  hope  to  replace 
them  soon  by  better  ones'.  It  has  become  usual  in  thr  -world  to  exchange 
photograph  for  photograph  ;  will  your  Highness  present  me  wich  yours  as 
an  evidence  of  your  favour  ?     You  will  follow  at  least  graciously  the  usus  ! 

'  With  the  expression  of  the  greatest  respect  and  devotion,  I  have  the 
honour  cf  signing  as 

*  Your  Highness's  most  obedient. 


'  ijtrasburg,  April  jth,  1871/ 


'  Fransecky, 

•  General  of  Infant ly. 


S62 


CHAPTER  XXI 11. 

Going  to  Germany — In  Anholt — My  husband's  debts — Different  views — 
Returning  to  my  deserted  home — Sympathisers — Pestered  tr  death — 
A  last  appeal  to  a  brother — A  princely  answer — What  1  .  esolved  to 
do — Baron  Edward  Openheim— Going  to  Berlin — A  priva'  ondience 
with  his  Majesty  the  Emperor — What  happened  i  it — G'^nera' voi. 
Treskow — My  offer  accepted — Audience  with  my  gracious  Empress — 
Moving  to  the  Augusta  hospital — Noble  nurses — Visit  of  Emperor 
and  Empress — A  present  from  Her  Majesty — Lost — Called  home — 
Moving  to  Bonn — Persecutions — A  forged  signature- -Law  suit — My 
health  failing — In  Luzern — Going  tr  Clarence — To  Pisa — To  Naples 
—Eruption  of  Mount  Vesuvius — I  want  lo  see  it  very  near — Jimmy's 
distress — Pompeii. 

Escorted  by  my  nephew,  Prince  Leopold,  and  accompanied 
by  Miss  Runkel,  Jimmy,  and  my  pigeon,  which  I  intended  as 
a  present  for  my  youngest  niece,  Princess  Flaminia,  m  Anholt, 
I  left  Amiens  Before  returning  to  my  so  long  deserted,  once 
happy  home  in  Coblentz,  I  had  resolved  to  pay  a  visit  to  An- 
holt, in  order  to  consult  with  my  brother-in-law  in  reference  to 
my  future.  My  poor  husband  had  in  his  letter  recommended 
me  to  Prince  Alfred's  care,  and  the  latter  had  assured  me  re- 
peatedly that  he  would  assist  me  as  a  brother. 

AVhen  the  war  broke  out  so  suddenly,  and  we  had  to  leave 
Coblentz,  it  was  impossible  to  make  any  arrangements.  I  was 
afraid  to  return  there  unprepared,  for  I  knew  very  well  what  I 
should  have  to  encounter.  Necessity  had  compelled  me  to 
renounce  the  heritage  of  my  husband,  and  I  did  so  under  the 
advice  of  my  brother-in-law,  as  I  was  unable  to  pay  all  his 
debts,  of  which  the  greater  part  were  contracted  before  he 
married  me. 

There  existed,  however,  debts    which   had   been   incurred 


My  Husband's  Debts.  8G3 

during  our  life  in  Coblentz,  and  amongst  them  a  great  number 
of  unsettled  household  bills  owing  to  servants  and  tradespeople, 
which  1  felt  in  honour  bound  to  pay,  even  if  I  should  have  to 
make  the  greatest  personal  sacrifices.  I  knew  very  well  that  I 
was  not  bound  by  law  to  do  so,  but  there  are  laws  superior 
even  to  those  managed  by  the  courts  and  lawyers.  These 
debts  were  comparatively  trifling,  amounting  in  all  to  a  few 
thousand  thalers,  and  I  expected  from  Prince  Alfred  that  he 
would  enter  into  my  views  and  assist  me  in  carrying  them  out. 

Pnnce  Alfred  had  assisted  his  brother  frequently.  Though 
not  compelled  by  the  laws  of  the  country  to  do  so,  other  laws 
to  which  I  alluded  above  made  this  assistance  a  duty.  The 
trifling  appanage  to  which  Felix,  as  a  younger  brother,  had 
been  entitled  by  the  law  of  the  country,  was  applied  to  the  pay- 
ment of  debts  made  when  in  the  Austrian  service.  On  his 
return  from  Mexico,  Prince  x\lfred  allowed  him  out  of  his  own 
pocket  twelve  hundred  thalers  a  year,  and  paid  part  of  his 
debts,  for  v/hich  a  life  assurance  policy  served  as  a  security. 
It  was  paid  \o  Prince  Alfred,  and  thus  his  sacrifices  were  con- 
siderably diminished.  Moreover,  by  the  death  of  poor  Felix, 
the  annuity  \i  rvelve  hundred  thalers  and  the  regular  appanages 
expired.  I  \.m  far  from  blaming  Prince  Alfred  for  acting  with 
circumspection,  for  ^-r  had  himself  many  children. 

The  Prince  did  act  think  it  necessary  for  the  honour  of  his 
family  to  pay  usurers  and  sharpers  who  had  profited  by  the  im- 
providence of  the  young  prince  his  brother,  and  his  views  in 
this  respect  were  approved  by  other  men  who  are  better  judges 
than  myself  in  reference  to  such  a  subject ;  and  these  views 
were  not  repugnant  to  my  feelings  either. 

But  far  different  was  it  in  refrence  to  straightforward,  un- 
questionable claims,  debts  contracted  with  tradesmen  who  had 
furnished  us  the  necessities  of  life,  people  who  lived  by  their 
honest  trade,  as  grocers,  butchers,  bakers,  tailers,  shoemakers, 
&c.,  not  to  speak  of  house-servants,  whose  several  claims  it  was 
impossible  to  settle  before  leaving  for  the  war.  There  my  views 
diftered  from  those  of  my  brother-in-law,  who  maintained  that 
I  was  not  bound  to  pay  them,  and  refused  to  lend  me  the 
money  to  do  so. 

During  my  short  sojourn  in  Anholt  I  did  not  succeed  in 
altering  his  opinion,  which  disappointed  me  much.  By  his 
brave  behaviour  in  Mexico,  and  his  glorious  death,  my  poor 


864  Ten  Years  oj  my  Life. 

husband  had  done  more  for  the  honour  of  his  family  than  any 
of  its  members  for  several  hundred  years  ;  and  I  imagined  that 
the  head  of  that  family  mights  perhaps  be  inclined  to  honour 
his  memory  by  sacrificing  a  few  paltry  thousands,  and  the  more 
as  he,  as  mentioned  before,  received  the  sum  for  which  Felix's 
life  was- insured,  and  had  no  longer  to  pay  his  annuity. 

I  shall  not  say  more  about  it,  but  only  state  facts  necessary 
to  justify  the  course  I  was  compelled  to  pursue  in  consequence 
of  this  refusal. 

The  prince  offered  me  rooms  and  free  station  in  his  castle, 
where  I  might  have  lived  to  the  end  of  my  life  by  his  grace.  As 
I  had,  however,  my  pension  from  His  Majesty  the  Emperor  of 
Austria,  which  I  did  not  owe  to  the  family  of  Salm  but  to 
myself,  and  moreover,  a  small  pension  as  the  widow  of  a 
Prussian  major  dead  on  the  battlefield,  and  for  other  reasons 
I  declined  that  offer,  and  returned,  with  rather  bitter  feeling 
in  my  heart,  and  only  about  200  thalers  in  my  pocket,  to 
Coblentz. 

When  I  entered  my  old  home,  the  first  I  had  since  my 
marriage,  and  where  I  had  passed  a  happy  time,  I  felt  as  a 
mother  who  has  lost  her  babe  may  feel  on  first  entering  the 
empty  nursery  and  seeing  there  the  toys  with  which  her  darl- 
ing once  played.  Opening  my  husband's  writing-table  and 
looking  around  in  his  room,  every  trifling  object  reminded  me 
of  some  little  occurrence  or  some  words  spoken  by  him  ;  and 
my  grief,  for  which  I  had,  as  it  were,  no  leisure  during  the 
ardent  duties  of  the  war,  broke  out  now  with  renewed  force. 

The  sympathy  shown  me  by  the  ladies  of  Coblentz  and  all 
my  friends  there  was  indeed  a  soothing  balm,  but  it  could  not 
make  me  forget  my  loss,  nor  prevent  me  from  reflecting  upon 
my  isolated  and  wretched  situation,  which  did  not  even  allow 
me  the  melancholy  luxury  of  grieving  in  peace.  Rude  reality 
knocked  at  my  door  in  the  shape  of  clamouring  creditors. 

Poor  people  !  they  were  perfectly  right  to  ask  payment  for 
thmgs  they  had  furnished,  mostly  on  my  own  orders,  for  which 
they  had  paid  their  own  money,  earned  by  their  own  industry 
and  work.  Who  can  blame  them  if  they  did  not  understand 
my  sad  and  desolate  condition  ?  Used  to  look  upon  princes 
with  a  certain  respect,  they  could  not  imagine  that  a  princess 
should  not  be  able  to  pay  a  few  thalers,  or  at  least  to  procure 
them  from  the  family  of  her   husband,   to   save   his   memory 


Pestered  to  Death.  SOd 

from  the  dishonour  of  robbing  poor  tradesmen.  I  cannot 
blame  them  that  they  perha^ps  ascribed  to  my  unwillingness  or 
meanness  what  was  the  result  of  utter  incapability  to  satisfy 
them,  and  if  they  expressed  their  opinion  rather  freely.  It 
may  be  a  certain  class  of  people  will  shrug  their  shoulders  at 
my  unprincely  weakness  in  caring  for  such  things  ;  but  the  fact 
is,  that  I  felt  utterly  unhappy  and  wretched  ;  for  to  such 
humiliations  I  had  never  yet  been  subjected.  I  was  in  a  con- 
stant fever,  for  whenever  the  bell  rang  I  expected  another 
creditor,  or  when  I  looked  through  the  window,  I  saw  one 
standing  opposite,  watching  the  house  with  angry  eyes. 
Madame  von  Corvin,  though  sad  also  because  she  had  just 
lost  her  mother,  came  from  Frankfort  to  Coblentz  to  comfort 
me  ;  she  was  a  witness  to  my  humiliations  and  my  fear,  and  so 
was  Miss  Runkel,  who  did  all  she  could  to  press  off  from  me 
these  excited  creditors,  of  whom  I  was  the  more  afraid  the 
more  I  was  convinced  of  the  justice  of  their  demands. 

I  felt  certainly  great  reluctance  in  applying  to  His  Majesty, 
who  had  done  already  so  much  for  my  husband  ;  but  on  the 
other  hand  I  had  no  other  help  in  this  country. 

The  Emperor  was  however  still  in  France,  and  the  clamour- 
ing creditors  were  at  my  door.  Prompt  action  was  required. 
Under  these  circumstances,  I  remembered  a  man  with  whom 
I  had  become  acquainted  during  the  war,  and  who  had  made 
on  me  the  impression  of  being  a  good  and  noble  feeling  man, 
— Edward  Oppenheim,  the  great  banker  of  Cologne.  Repre- 
senting to  him  the  situation  in  which  I  was  placed,  I  requested 
from  him  a  loan  of  two  thousand  thalers,  which  were  sufficient 
to  satisfy  the  most  urgent  necessities.  The  Baron  responded 
to  my  confidence  in  the  most  amiable  manner. 

When  the  Emperor  returned  to  Berlin  I  went  there,  accom- 
panied by  Miss  Runkel.  Colonel  von  Corvin  not  having  re- 
turned from  France  Madame  Corvin  had  not  yet  taken  another 
home,  but  was  living  herself  in  lodgings,  where  there  was  no 
room  for  me  and  Miss  Runkel ;  I  had  therefore  to  go  to  an 
hotel. 

On  my  request,  Count  Lehndorf,  the  aide-de-camp  of  His 
Majesty,  called  on  me,  and  making  him  acquainted  with  the 
object  of  my  visit  to  Berlin,  I  requested  him  to  procure  for  me 
a  private  audience  with  the  Emperor. 

This   audience  was  graciously  granted,  and  I  shall  always 


3G6  Ten  Years  of  ony  Life. 

cherish  it  as  one  of  the  most  precious  recollections  of  my  life  • 
nut  on  account  of  its  material  results,  but  far  more  because  it 
made  me  love  and  admire  still  more  our  kind  Emperor,  and  as 
I,  in  this  audience,  which  lasted  nearly  an  hour,  had  the  satis- 
faction of  seeing  that  my  views  about  what  I  owed  to  the 
memory  of  my  husband,  were  not  ridiculed,  but  fully  approved 
as  correct  and  proper  by  the  highest  authority, — the  first 
Prince  and  gentleman  of  the  world,  the  great  Emperor  of  Ger- 
many. 

His  Majesty  was  extremely  kind  and  gracious,  and  listened 
with  great  attention  and  patience  to  my  lengthy  explanation 
and  request.  When  I  asked  frankly  whether  I  was  right  or 
wrong  in  feeling  bound  in  duty  to  pay  the  debts  of  my  hus- 
band, which  were  made  whilst  I  lived  with  him  in  Coblentz, 
though  I  had  refused  to  accept  his  heritage,  and  declared  that 
I  would  abide  by  the  decision  of  His  Majesty,  the  Emperor 
answered,  with  a  certain  emphasis  and  a  glow  of  honest  indig- 
nation in  his  noble  face,  that  I  certainly  was  right  in  wishing 
to  pay  the  poor  honest  tradespeople,  though  I  might  accept 
the  benefit  of  the  common  law  in  reference  to  Salm's  old  debts 
contracted  with  usurers  and  sharpers. 

I  told  the  Emperor  that  I  had  borrowed  two  thousand 
thalers  from  Baron  Edward  Oppenheim,  which  I  should  have 
to  refund  first ;  but  that  I  required  four  thousand  thalers  more 
to  come  to  an  arrangement  with  that  class  of  creditors  whom  I 
intended  to  pay.  His  Majesty  referred  me  to  General  von 
Treskow,  his  adjutant-general,  saying  that  he  would  arrange 
with  me  that  matter.  I  declared  to  this  well-meaning,  excellent 
gentleman,  that  I  would  not  accept  this  money  otherwise  than 
as  a  loan,  which  I  would  repay  by  giving  up  my  whole  widow's 
pension  until  it  was  repaid.  The  Emperor,  fully  understanding 
the  feeling  which  dictated  this  offer,  was  gracious  enough  to 
approve  and  accept  it,  with  the  modification,  however,  that  I 
should  repay  only  four  of  the  six  thousand  thalers,  and  give 
annually  only  half  of  my  pension  for  this  purpose. 

General  von  Treskow  proposed  to  request  Field-Marshal  von 
Herwarth  to  arrange  the  settlement  of  my  affairs,  as  I  would 
not  receive  the  money  myself:  but  considering  that  it  would 
be  a  great  trouble  for  the  veteran  general,  and  that  a  man  of 
business  was  more  used  to  such  thmgs,  I  insisted  on  requesting 
Baron  Oppenheim  to  take  charge  of  that  bui^jness,  with  which 
he  kindly  complied. 


Augusta  Hospital.  367 

Of  course  vvhilsl  in  Berlin  I  first  paid  my  respects  to  Her 
Majesty  the  Empress  and  Queen,  whom  I  saw  there  for  the 
first  time  after  the  death  of  my  husband.  Her  Majesty  kindly 
inquired  about  my  affairs  and  future  plans,  and  hearing  from 
me  that  my  presence  in  Berlin  would  be  required  for  a  longer 
time,  and  further  that  I  was  thinking  of  taking  charge  of  some 
hospital,  Her  Majesty  graciously  oftered  me  a  room  in  the 
Augusta  hospital,  where  I  not  only  would  save  great  expense 
but  have  an  opportunity  of  making  myself  acquainted  with  the 
management  of  such  an  establishment.  I,  of  course,  accepted 
with  the  greatest  thanks. 

The  Augusta  Hospital  is  a  creation  of  Her  Majesty,  and 
under  her  special  protection  and  care.  It  is  situated  in  finely 
laid-out  grounds,  and  consists  of  a  main  building  and  two 
American  barracks  connected  with  it.  It  is  certainly  the 
finest  and  most  elegant  hospital  I  have  seen  on  the  Continent, 
and  is  not  intended  to  be  a  general  hospital,  like  the  chanty 
anc  other  establishments  in  Berlin,  but  more  to  afford  accom- 
modation ior  sick  persons  who  are  able  to  pay  for  their  board 
and  treatment,  though  there  are  also  about  a  dozen  beds  for 
poor  people.  •  _ 

In  establishing  this  hospital  Her  Majesty,  thinking  of  the 
many  poor  daughters  of  noble  families  intended  to  create,  lor 
a  number  ot  them  at  least,  a  field  of  noble  activity,  by  which 
they  might  benefit  society  and  find  at  the  same  time  protection 
against  care  and  want. 

At  the  head  of  this  hospital  was  a  Countess  Rittberg  ;  and 
four  other  ladies,  belonging  to  noble  families,  assisted  her,  witti 
a  number  of  nurses  and  servants.  These  ladies  wear  all  a 
rather  simple  but  extremely  becoming  uniform  dress,  and  are 
distinguished  by  a  round  white  brooch  with  a  red  cross  on  it 
Each  two  of  these  ladies  have  very  elegantly  and  properly 
arranged  apartments,  and  there  are  besides  other  rooms  for 
their  accommodation,  as  a  dining-room,  etc.  They  have  free 
.  lodging  in  the  hospital,  and  about  fifteen  pounds  a  year  pocket- 
money.  The  first  dress  is  given  to  them,  but  afterwards  they 
have  to  provide  for  their  clothing  themselves. 

The  whole  hospital  makes  a  very  agreeable  impression,  for 
all  the  arrangements  are  very  practical  and  convenient,  and  on 
going  through  the  different  wards  one  has  not  the  uncomforta- 
ble feeling  experienced  in  many  public  hospitals,  where  econ- 


r» 


G8  Ten  Years  of  my  Life. 


omy  seems  the  principal  object,  and  the  bareness  of  the  rooms 
and  passages  reminds  one  of  a  prison  or  a  barrack.  The  mind 
of  sick  people  requires  as  much  refreshment  as  the  body ;  and 
to  look  for  days  or  weeks  on  the  grim  simplicity  of  bare  white- 
washed walls  is  by  no  means  cheering.  I  am  therefore  of 
opinion  that  a  certain  amount  of  ornamental  elegance  is  just  as 
necessary  in  a  hospital  as  cleanliness  ;  and  neither  ornament 
nor  cleanliness  are  wanting  in  the  Augusta  hospital. 

Though  I  >vas  much  pleased  with  this  pattern  hospital,  it 
still  seemed  to  me  as  if  the  kind  intentions  of  Her  Majesty 
were  not  perfectly  fulfilled,  and  that  the  exclusive  employment 
of  noble  nurses  was  rather  prejudicial  to  practical  success. 
Though  the  hospital  may  be  directed  by  a  lady,  I  think  it 
would  be  preferable  if  some  sisters  of  charity  were  substituted 
lor  the  noble  nurses.  Sisters  of  charity  make  nursing  the  sick 
the  duty  of  their  life  ;  tliey  have  done  with  family  connections, 
have  been  trained  to  unreasoning  obedience,  and  are  most  ex- 
cellent nursing  machines  with  which  a  sensible  director  can 
work  a  hospital  most  admirably.  The  noble  nurses,  coming 
from  the  midst  of  their  lamilies,  bring  with  them  to  the  hospital 
prejudices,  habits,  and  tastes  which  do  not  always  agree  with 
it,  and  make  it  extremely  difficult  to  maintain  strict  discipline, 
without  which  such  establishments  cannot  prosper. 

Notwithstanding  these  objections  to  noble  nurses,  I  was  ex- 
tremely pleased  with  my  sojourn  in  the  hospital,  and  with  the 
amiable  ladies  employed  in  it.  Her  Majesty  the  Empress 
visited  the  hospital  frequently,  mostly  accompanied  by  Coun- 
tess Haake.  One  day,  when  the  royal  visit  was  announced 
and  all  were  in  their  rooms,  the  Empress,  followed  by  the  Em- 
peror, entered  the  room  which  I  occupied  together  with  Miss 
Runkel.  Countess  Haake  presented  Miss  Runkel  to  their 
Majesties,  and  the  Emperor  said  some  kind  words  to  her,  in- 
quiring for  her  brothers  who  had  been  officers  in  the  war.  His 
jMajesty  is  almost  always  in  a  good  humour,  and  makes  fre- 
quently kind  jocular  remarks,  which  leave  always  with  those  to* 
whom  they  are  addressed  a  very  pleasant  feeling  ;  for  in  the 
jokes  of  the  Emperor  there  is  never  a  tinge  of  malice ;  he  is 
goodness  itself 

I  remained  a  fortnight  in  the  Augusta  hospital,  and  would 
have  stayed  until  all  my  rather  complicated  affairs  had  been 
settled,  if  I  had  not  received  letters  which  made  my  presence 
in  Coblentz  necessary. 


A  Royal  Visit  .  369 

Two  days  before  I  left,  Her  jNIajesty  visited  the  hospital,  and 
came  to  my  room.  Sitting  down  on  my  sofa  she  took  a  small 
parcel  and  a  photograph  out  of  her  pocket.  The  parcel  con- 
tained a  black  brooch  ot  onyx,  with  a  locket  at  its  back. 
Cutting  with  a  pair  of  scissors  her  photograph  to  the  proper 
size  and  fitting  it  in  the  locket,  she  gave  me  the  brooch,  re- 
questing me  always  to  wear  it  in  remembrance  of  her  ;  she  had 
worn  it  herself  in  very  sad  moments.  Much  affected  by  this 
great  kindness  of  my  most  gracious  sovereign  I  put  on  the 
brooch,  and  inclined  to  superstitious  ideas  as  I  am,  I  imagined 
it  was  a  kind  of  talisman  protecting  me  against  evil,  which  I 
must  guard  like  the  apple  of  my  eye.  As  the  fastening  seemed 
to  me  not  secure  enough,  I  went  on  my  return  to  Coblentz  to 
Mrs.  Goldschmidt  the  jeweller,  and  asked  her  to  make  me  an 
extra  chain  as  an  additional  security,  but  she  laughed  at  me 
and  said  that  the  fastening  was  as  secure  as  could  be.  Still  it 
was  not  so.  When  I,  one  evening,  undressed,  I  discovered 
with  dismay  that  this  my  supposed  talisman  was  gone  :  and  I 
became  the  more  excited,  as  I  never  lost  anything  and  now 
imagined  that  my  good  luck  was  lost  with  it  also.  I  advertised 
in  several  papers  offering  a  reward  exceeding  the  value  of  the 
brooch,  but  in  vain  ;  it  was  not  found,  at  least  not  restored  to 
me.  I  was  really  afraid  to  meet  Her  Majesty  again,  and  when 
a  friendly  lady  advised  me  to  buy  a  similar  brooch,  assuring 
me  that  the  Empress  would  not  become  aware  of  the  change, 
I  could  not  follow  her  advice,  as  it  was  repugnant  to  my  feel- 
ings. The  Empress  did  not  notice  my  loss,  but  I  always  felt 
guiky  for  not  confessing  it  to  her. 

When  I  returned  to  Coblentz  I  was  very  sad  and  uncomfor- 
table in  my  lodging,  where  everything  reminded  me  of  the 
happy  past.  Moreover  it  had  never  agreed  altogether  with  my 
ideas  of  a  home,  and  to  live  now  with  other  people  in  the  same 
house  was  insupportable  to  me  ;  I  wanted  a  home  where  I  was 
not  disturbed  by  others.  Much  as  I  would  have  liked  to  re- 
.main  in  Coblentz,  where  I  had  so  many  kind  friends,  I  could 
not  find  such  a  small  house  as  I  wanted,  but  in  Bonn,  which 
place  I  liked  always  very  much,  I  was  fortunate  enough  to  find 
one  which  suited  me  in  every  respect,  and  which  I  rented 
for  a  less  price  than  I  paid  for  my  lodgings  in  Coblentz.  The 
house  belonged  to  the  banker  of  Bonn,  Mr.  Cahn,  who  had 
fitted  it  up  very  tastefully  for  his  recently  deceased  wife,  while 

w 


S70  Ten  Years  of  my  Life. 

he  was  building  his  splendid  castle  on  the  Rhine  in  Plittersdon, 
called  Aiif  dem  Rech. 

The  fatigues  which  I  had  undergone  and  the  troubles  which 
I  experienced  impaired  my  health,  and  the  annoyances  caused 
me  by  the  importunity  of  many  creditors  of  my  poor  husband 
made  me  still  worse.  Becoming  aware  that  I  had  paid  some, 
they  imagined  that  I  must  pay  all,  and  pursued  me  in  the 
most  annoying  manner.  One  of  them  produced  even  a  bill 
signed  not  only  by  Salm,  but  bearing  also  my  own  signature. 
I  had  not  signed  the  bill  produced  ;  it  was  a  forgery  ;  but  the 
Tew,  believing  himself  to  be  in  the  right,  went  to  law.  The 
court,  decided  in  my  lavour,  as  the  expert  declared  that  the 
signature  was  not  mine  ;  but  I  had  to  appear  several  times  and 
at  very  inconvenient  moments,  for  twice  I  was  obliged  to 
interrupt  my  travels  and  to  return  from  great  distances  to 
Bonn. 

The  physicians  advised  me  to  go  to  Switzerland  for  a 
change  of  air,  and  I  went  to  Luzern,  accompanied  by  Miss 
Runkel.  To  travel  under  my  real  name  would  have  been  very 
expensive,  and  therefore  I  entered  the  pension  Kaufman  in 
Luzern  under  the  assumed  name  of  Baroness  Stein.  Though 
my  health  improved  there  I  became  even  sadder  than  I  had 
been  before,  and  I  resumed  the  idea  of  taking  charge  of  an 
hospital,  or  if  I  should  not  find  one,  of  going  to  a  convent. 

After  two  months'  sojourn  in  Luzern,  I  returned  to  Bonn. 
My  affairs  were  being  arranged  by  Baron  Oppenheim,  but  he 
would  and  could  not  satisfy  all  the  creditors,  who  imagined 
that  they,,  not  succeeding  with  the  Baron,  could  force  me  to 
pay  by  making  my  life  wretched. 

My  intention  of  retiring  to  some  hospital  or  convent  was 
confirmed  still  more  ;  but  all  my  friends  opposed  vehemently, 
and  I  once  more  was  induced  to  hope  for  a  better  time.  My 
health  becoming  bad  again  I  was  sent  in  October,  1872,  to  the 
Lake  of  Geneva,  where  I  lived  in  the  pension  Ketterer  in 
Clarence.  There  I  found  several  officers  recovering  from  the 
late  war,  with  their  wives,  and  other  ladies,  and  led  quite  a 
peaceful,  agreeable  life.  There  I  saw  Prmce  Albrecht  of 
Prussia  for  the  last  time,  and  became  acquainted  with  th< 
Countess  his  wife,  and  her  two  sons. 

I  remained  in  Clarence  over  Christmas  ;  but  when  it  becaniv 
cold  the  doctors  advised  me  to  go  to  Italy,  and   I    went   to 


A  tea.  371 

Pisa.  In  the  house  of  a  Dr.  Feroce  I  had  a  very  large  and 
pleasant  lodging,  for  which  I  had  to  pay  only  five  hundred 
lires  for  three  months.  Everything  was  cheap  in  proportion. 
From  a  restaurant  close  by,  kept  by  the  brother  of  our  land- 
lord, we  received  two  most  excellent  and  rich  meals,  with  wine 
at  discretion,  for  three  lires  each  a  day. 

Though  I  was  incognito  there,  a  priest,  who  gave  me  lessons 
in  Italian,  had  discovered  who  I  was.  •  In  consequence  of  this 
I  became  acquainted  with  many  persons  belonging  to  the 
society  of  Pisa,  as  Countess  Pandulfo,  Countess  Samiviatelli, 
and  other  very  agreeable  ladies  and  gentlemen,  with  whom  I 
passed  a  pleasant  time.  I  made  frequent  excursions  in  the 
neighbourhood,  mostly  on  horseback,  and  liked  especially  to 
ride  through  a  deer  park  or  the  king's,  where  deer  and  boars 
were  quite  tame,  browsing  quietly  when  we  passed,  or  looking 
at  us  fearlessly. 

Though  I  might  say  many  things  about  Pisa  and  other  places 
in  Italy,  I  have  to  consider  that  this  is  much-trodden  ground, 
and  moreover,  that  my  book  has  become  more  bulky  already 
than  I  intended.  I  shall  thereiore  limit  myself  to  a  very  rapid 
sketch,  in  order  not  to  tire  the  reader. 

The  great  event  oi  the  day  was  at  that  period  the  eruption 
o.  Vesuvius,  and  I  wanted  to  see  it.  I  went  therefore  to 
Naples,  where  the  people  were  in  great  fear,  for  the  ashes 
were  tailing  over  the  city,  and  a  fate  like  that  of  Herculaneum 
and  Pompeii  was  thought  possible  by  many.  When  the 
eruptions  and  the  flow  of  lava  had  ceased,  everybody, 
especially  strangers,  wanted  to  see  the  effects  of  the  eruption 
as  near  as  possible  ;  and* I  went  also  with  Miss  Runkel  and 
Jimmy,  joining  a  large  company.  The  guides  would  not  permit 
us  to  go  beyond  a  certain  place,  saying  that  a  further  advance 
was  extremely  dangerous.  I  am  somewhat  incredulous  in 
respect  to  such  assurances  and  curious  to  ascertair.  vi^<:;sr  truth. 
I  therefore  prevailed  on  two  guides  to  go  with  us  bt/0i5d  the 
saiety-line.  Finding,  however,  soon,  that  the  thing  was  indeed 
somewhat  venturesome,  I  insisted  on  Miss  Runkel  staying 
behind  with  Jimmy. at  a  certain  place  which  I  would  pass  on 
my  return. 

The  more  we  advanced  the  more  interesting  became  om 
excursion,  though  we  were  compelled  to  jump  over  rather  wide 
chasms,  where   one  wrong   step   would   have   carried   lis    to 


OIT* 


72  Ten  Fears  of  my  Life. 

Vulcan's  workshop.  My  further  progress  was,  however,  brought 
to  a  sudden  stop,  by  Jimmy  arriving  in  a  pitiful  state.  Miss 
Runkel,  tired  of  holding  the  heavy  dog  on  her  arms,  put  him 
down  when  we  were  out  of  sight ;  but  Jimmy  followed  me, 
and  getting  on  some  hot  lava  he  burned  his  feet.  I  took  the 
poor  fellow  up  and  we  returned  the  same  way  we  had  come — 
an  undertaking  that  became  unexpectedly  difficult  by  my  hav- 
ing to  carry  a  heavy  load  in  my  arms.  We  returned,  however, 
without  accident  to  the  place  where  the  rest  of  the  company 
had  remained,  and  refreshed  ourselves  with  a  bottle  of  lacrymse 
Christi,  regretting  much  that  the  vineyard  where  it  had  been 
grown  was  covered  several  feet  deep  with  ashes,  from  which 
the  tops  of  the  vines  scarcely  peeped  out.  At  a  place  where 
two  roads  branched  off  stood  a  statute  of  St.  Antonio.  The 
burning  lava,  which  had  overflown  everything,  stopped  right 
before  it,  leaving  it  uninjured,  which  was  looked  upon  as  a 
miracle.     The  fact  I  have  seen  myself 

We  paid  also  a  visit  to  Pompeii,  where  we  saw  very  strange 
things,  bearing  evidence  that  the  people  two  thousand  years 
ago  were  as  wicked  as  they  are  now.  As  Murray  and  Baedecker 
are  in  everybody's  hand,  I  refer  to  them,  and  save  the  trouble 
of  describing  imperfectly  what  they  have  described  with  far 
more  art  and  knowledge  than  is  at  my  disposal ;  and  as  to  my 
impressions  on  seeing  all  the  Pompeiian  wonders,  I  suppose 
they  were  the  same  as  are  experienced  by  most  visitors  who 
come  there  as  ignorant  as  myseiU 


^73 


-ta,g^- 


CHAPTER  XXIV. 

I  want  to  enter  a  convent — Applying  to  the  Empress — Letter  of  Count 

Armin — A  card  from  Baron  S to  the  German  minister  in  Rome  — 

In  Rome — Count  Brazie  de  St.  Simon — His  portrait — His  mixtum 
compositum  wine— His  hobby-horse — I  make  an  impression  on  the 
old  diplomatist — Effects— Seeing  San  Angelo — The  Prison  of  Ben- 
venuto  Cellini — Causing  the  death  of  the  old  Count — Monsignore 
Merode — Two  audiences  with  the  Pope — Declares  that  I  have  no 
talent  for  a  nunnery — Private  mass  by  Monsignore  Merode  at  the 
grave  of  San  Pietro — Presents  from  the  Pope — A  once  celebrated 
lady  and  pretended  princess — Rev,  Joseph  INIulIoly — The  Church  uf 
St.  Clement  and  its  subterranean  wonders — What  called  me  home — 
Invitation  to  Rostock  in  Mecklenburg — In  Wamemunde — Grand  Duke 
and  Grand  Duchess  of  Mecklenburg-  -The  '  Stromfahrt ' — Festival — 
Curious  Warfare — Called  home  again — Bad  health — In  Scheveningea 
— An  American  gold  uncle — Change  of  affairs — I  buy  a  house  in 
Bonn — Have  rented  it  to  Baron  Gerolt — Journey  to  Spain — Madrid — 

Count  W A  river  without  water — The  palace  of  the  Duke  of 

Ossuna — Invested  by  the  Philistines — The  picture  gallery — The  Arm- 
oury— Curious  armour,  &c. — The  Theatres — A  characteristic  adventure 
— In  the  Prado — Duchess  de  la  Torre — Serrano — Queen  Isabella — 
Victor  Amadeus — The  attentate — Disturbed  state — Returning  to  Bonn 
— A  few  last  words — End  of  the  book. 

I  HAD  not  given  up  the  idea  yet  of  entering  a  convent,  but  my 
friends  had  so  far  prevailed  upon  me  that  I  was  in  no  hurry  to 
take  such  a  step.  I  had  resolved  to  apply  to  tlie  highest 
authority  of  our  Church,  His  Holiness  the  Pope,  and  to  do 
what  he  should  order  me.  From  Pisa  I  had  written  to  Countess 
Schulemburg,  requesting  Her  Majesty  to  give  me  a  letter  of  re- 
commendation, which  might  facilitate  my  steps.  Her  gracious 
Majesty,  complying  with  my  request,  caused  Count  Armin  to 
send  me  such  a  letter,  which  was  directed  to  Monsignore 
Merode. 

I  had  also  written  to  Baron  Oppenheim,  and  he  sent  me  a 


o74i  Ten  Years  of  my  Life. 

card  for  Count  Brazier  de  St.  Simon,  the  German   minister  in 

Rome,  irom  Baron  S ,  one  ol   his  triends,  who  had  been 

once  in  the  legation  of  the  count,  with  whom  he  imagined  he 
was  on  excellent  terms.  • 

When  the  count  received  this  card,  he  said  to  his  secretary 
of  legation,  *  Heaven  knows  what  person  that  teliow  has  thrust 
on  me  !  I  shall  not  take  any  notice  of  her  ;'  and  it  was  with 
some  difficulty  that  he  was  prevailed  on  to  call  on  me,  which 
he  did  only  after  three  days,  as  I  had  forgotten  to  put  on  my 
card  my  lodging  in  Rome.  It  was  tound  out,  however,  by  an 
old  Italian  factotum  of  the  ambassador,  who  was  a  most  inter- 
esting, original  person. 

..  When  he  called,  his  first  question  before  taking  a  seat  was, 
*  How  did  you  become  acquainted  with  that  fellow,  princess  ?' 
When  I  told  him  that  I  had  never  seen  '  that  fellow  ^^  his  face 
became  friendlier ;  he  sat  down,  and  I  succeeded  in  winning  the 
good  graces  of  his  Excellency  in  a  most  uncommon  degree, 
which  favour  was  further  increased  when  we  by  chance  came 
to  speak  about  animal  magnetism  and  similar  subjects,  which 
were  his  hobby-horse,  and  on  his  discovering  that  I  was  not 
only  greatly  interested  in  that  matter  but  had  had  some  practi- 
cal experience. 

Count  Brazier  de  St.  Simon  w^as  a  little  dried-up  old  man, 
with  a  few  grey  hairs  and  projecting  cheek  bones,  but  very 
quick,  small,  grey  eyes.  His  clothes  hung  about  him  as  ii  on 
a  scarecrow,  and  were  always  the  same ;  I  believe  he  had  not 
more  than  one  suit,  and  that  was  a  rather  singular  one  lor  an 
old  ambassador.  It  vvas  made  of  some  thick  English  woollen 
stuff — for  the  count  ielt  always  cold — grey  with  red  lines,  term- 
ing large  squares.  Notwithstanding  this  dress  he  looked  not 
vulgar,  but  like  a  man  ot  distinction,  like  an  old  diplomast. 
He  v/as  past  seventy,  though  he  would  not  acknowledge  his 
age,  and  when  the  census  was  taken  he  put  himselt  down  ten 
years  younger  than  he  really  was. 

He  was  very  stingy,  and  about  that  many  anecdotes  were 
circulated.  In  his  position  he  could  not  evade  giving  now  and 
then  a  dinner  ;  but  his  dinners   were  dreaded    on  account  oi 

1  As  the  Count  was  a  rather  queer  old  man,  I  believed  him  prejudiced 
against  the  Baron,  with  whom  I  became  acquainted  much  later  ;  but  I  am 
sorry  to  say  that  I  ought  to  have  lollowed  the  warning  of  the  old  minister, 
for  I  found  out  that  he  was  perfectly  correct  in  his  estimation  ot  the  Baron, 


Count  Brazier  de  St.  Simon.  375 

his  bad  wines.  Once,  when  at  such  a  dinner  he  was  sitting 
between  the  English  and  the  Russian  ambgissadors,  he  advised 
them  not  to  drink  the  wine  they  had  before  them,  but  to  drink 
with  him.  The  other  wine,  though  very  good,  he  said,  did  not 
agree  with  him  ;  he  called  it  '  mixtum  compositum,'  and  such 
indeed  it  was.  A  cask,  arriving  from  a  farm  he  had  some- 
where, broke,  and  the  wine  was  rather  spoiled,  but  he  improved 
it  by  mixing  it  with  some  cheap  Florentine  wine. 

He  was  very  angiy  that  he  had  to  give  up  his  fine  lodgings 
in  Florence,  and  to  go  to  Rome,  of  which  he  would  not  see 
anything,  though  he  was  now  and  then  compelled  to  go  out 
with  persons  recommended  to  him.  He  was  very  lively,  and 
his  conversation  was  amusing,  tor  he  was  rather  sarcastic  and 
witty. 

I  do  not  know  by  what  gifts  I  won  the  tavour  of  this 
singular  old  man,  but  I  cannot  doubt  that  I  made  an  impres- 
sion on  him  ;  for  he  showed  it  in  a  manner  which  could  not 
but  convince  all  who  were  acquainted  with  him.  He  fetched 
me  every  morning  in  /iis  carriage — a  hired  one,  for  he  kept 
none — offered  me  always  /lis  box  in  the  theatre — of  course  he 
had  none — and  gave  me  even  nice  little  dinners  and  luncheons, 

to  the  wonder  of  his  secretary  of  legation.  Count  W ,  who 

is  by  marriage  connected  with  the  Salm  family,  and  who 
generally  took  part  in  our  parties  and  excursions. 

The  old  ambassador  would  have  liked  very  much  to  mesme- 
rise me,  and  he  tried  to  persuade  me  ;  but  I  laughed  it  oft. 

1  owe  the  good  old  count  much  thanks,  tor  he  accompanied 
me  everywhere,  and  showed  me  all  the  sights  ot  Rome  and 
surroundings.  When  he  was  with  me  in  the  Castle  San  Angelo 
and  we  had  seen  all  the  rooms,  which  had  made  him  rather 
warm,  I  am  sorry  I  insisted  on  his  accompanying  me  to  see 
the  prison  ot  Benvenuto  Cellini,  lor  he  caught  a  severe  cold 
there,  Irom  which  he  never  recovered,  and  he  died  soon  after 
my  departure. 

The  letter  of  Count  Arnim  promised  me  a  very  kind  recep- 
tion on  the  part  ot  Monsignore  Merode,  the  former  secretary 
of  war  of  the  Pope,  and  since  then  cardinal.  He  belongs 
to  a  great  Belgian  tamiily,  and  is  extremely  rich.  He  is  a  man 
in  his  best  years,  a  very  portly  gentleman,  looking  more  like  a 
disguised  officer  of  cuirassiers  than  a  high  dignitary  of  the 
Church,  of  which  he  is,  however,  one  of  the  most  distinguished 
ornaments. 


o7G  Ten  Years  of  my  Life. 

There  is  nothing  monkish  or  ascetic  about  Monsignore 
Merode  ;  on  the  contrary,  he  has  all  the  manners  of  a  man  of 
the  world,  and  is  very  politq  and  agreeable.  In  his  purple 
dress,  with  his  large  golden  tross,  he  looked  elegant  and 
splendid.  I  saw  him  frequently,  and  to  his  kindness  I  owed 
several  privileges  which  are  not  generally  granted. 

I  confided  my  desire  to  him  to  enter  a  convent,  but  he  did 
not  approve  of  it ;  and  his  reasons  had  already  half  convinced 
me,  when  he  procured  me  an  audience  with  the  Holy  Father, 
which  honour  I  had  twice. 

The  Pope  had  been  already  iniormed  of  my  intention  and 
person.  He  said  he  did  not  think  I  had  a  vocation  for  a  nun- 
nery ;  he  advised  me  to  reflect  on  it  somewhat  longer,  and  to 
stay  at  least  one  year  more  in  the  world,  to  see  whether  I 
would  not  change  my  mind.  This  advice  oi  the  Holy  Father 
was  extremely  kind  ,  his  clear  mind  anticipated  what  would 
happen  ;  he  read  my  character,  ior  indeed  I  changed  my  mind, 
and  before  the  year  had  passed  I  did  not  think  any  more  of 
burying  myself  in  a  nunnery 

Monsignore  Merode  introduced  me  to  a  distinuished  priest, 
who  understood  English,  and  to  whom  I  could  confess ;  and 
after  having  done  so  Monsignore  himself  conferred  on  me  the 
distinction  oi  celebrating,  assisted  by  one  priest,  a  private  mass 
on  the  grave  of  the  holy  apostle  St.  Peter,  that  is  in  the  little 
chapel,  and  giving  me  the  holy  sacrament.  After  that  he  pre- 
sented me,  on  the  part  of  the  Holy  Father,  with  a  splendid 
golden  Agnus  Dei,  in  Roman  mosaic,  with  the  inscription  '  Pix 
tib'i'  on  the  reverse,  also  with  a  large-sized  photograph  with  the 
signature  of  His  Holiness. 

Victor  Emmanuel  was  then  in  Rome,  and  I  saw  him  fre- 
quently pass  ;  but  everybody  will  understand  that  1  would  and 
could  not  make  any  attempt  to  be  introduced  to  his  court. 

On  the  promenade  I  saw  also  an  interesting  personage,  who 
had  been  in  some  connection  with  Victor  Emmanuel,  and  was 
now  the  wife  of  a  great  politician.  She  appeared  always  in  a 
grand  carriage,  with  an  immense  princely  crown  on  its  panels, 
for  she  pretended  to  have  been  formerly  the  wife  of  a  German 
prince  of  a  well-known  family,  though  this  lormer  husband  had 
only  the  same  name,  without  being  a  prince  or  having  any  con- 
nection with  the  family.  There  are,  for  instance,  many  Mr. 
von  Salms  and  Mr.  Salms  in  Germany,  and  it  is  the  same  with 
other  family  names. 


An  Interesting  Personage.  377 

This  lady,  who  once  exerted  a  certain  influence,  ^vl^cn  she 
was  handsome,  is  now  rather  past ;  but  in  oider  to  make  the 
world  believe  that  she  is  still  young,  she  has  hired  or  bought  a 
baby,  which  is  always  carried  after  her  when  she  descends  from 
her  carriage  and  makes  a  promenade.  I  sa\v  her  descend 
thus,  and  noticed,  what  I  heard  before,  that  she  wore  very 
short  dresses  to  show  her  small  feet,  which  were  encased,  not 
in  boots,  but  in  shoes  with  old-fashioned  cross  ribbands. 

Of  this  lady,  her  husband,  and  the  king  himself,  the  most 
amusing  anecdotes  are  told  in  society  ;  but  as  such  anecdotes 
lose  much  in  print,  I  must  not  communicate  them  here.  In 
publishing  Roman  experiences  discretion  is  advisable. 

Amongst  my  clerical  acquaintances,  I  must  not  forget  to 
mention  that  of  a  most  excellent  and  distinguished  man,  my 
confessor,  the  R.P.F.  Joseph  Mullooly,  O.P.S.T.L.,  prior  of 
SS.  Sixte  and  Clement ;  what  the  letters  before  and  behind  his 
name  mean  I  do  not  know,  I  copy  them  from  the  title-page  ol 
a  work  he  has  written  about  his  church,  the  most  remarkable 
wonders  ot  which  he  was  kind  enough  to  show  and  explain  to 
me  himself. 

The  church  of  St.  Clement  is  very  old,  and  the  most  periect 
type  of  the  old  catholic  basilicas  ;  but  in  1857  was  discovered 
under  this  church  another  much  older,  which  on  purpose  had 
been  covered  with  earth.  In  this  old  edifice  have  been  found 
not  only  precious  marble  columns  and  mosaics,  but  most  valu- 
able fresco  pictures,  dating  from  the  third  to  the  ninth  or  tenth 
century.  It  was  extremely  difficult  to  get  at  these  valuable 
relics,  for  it  had  to  be  done  without  endangering  the  actual 
church. 

But  even  underneath  this  most  ancient  building  have  been 
discovered  walls,  which  according  to  antiquarian  researches 
date  from  the  three  distinct  periods  of  heathenish  Rome. 

The  fresco  pictures  are  highly  interesting,  and  as  their  sub- 
terranean wonders  have  been  accessible  only  since  1866,  many 
visitors  to  Rome  will  scarcely  know  anything  of  them,  and 
artists  and  antiquarians  who  should  happen  to  read  my  book 
will  thank  me  for  h^rving  drawn  their  notice  to  St.  Clement. 

I  had  been  only  five  weeks  in  Rome,  where  I  should  have 
liked  to  have  stayed  much  longer,  when  a  law-suit,  which  I 
mentioned  before,  made  my  personal  appearance  in  Bonn 
necessary. 


o78  Ten  \ears  of  my  Life. 

I  had  been  a  short  time  in  my  house  when  ray  dear  friend 

Mrs.  von  G mvited  me  to  stay  with  her  some  time.     The 

Colonel,  her  husband,  had  given  up  his  idea  of  leaving  the 
army  and  had  now  a  command'-in  Rostock,  in  Mecklenburg. 

Whilst  Miss  Runkel  took  care  of  my  house  in  Bonn  I  left 
for  Rostock.    When,  however,  after  a  short  sojourn  there.  Col. 

von  G ha.d  to  attend  to  certain  military  manoeuvres  which 

would  keep  him  from  home  for  several  weeks,  we  resolved  to 
go  to  the  watering-place  of  Warnemunde,  on  the  Baltic. 

On  my  arrival  in  Rostock  I  had  requested  at  once  an  audi- 
ence with  the  Grand  Duchess  Dowager,  the  sister  of  our  Em- 
peror, and  also  called  on  the  ladies  of  honour  of  the  Grand 
Duchess.  Whilst  I  was  with  the  Grand  Duchess  Dowager  in 
Heiligendamm  near  Rostock,  the  Grand  l^uke  and  Grand 
Duchess,  who  had  heard  of  my  presence,  entered  the  room, 
and  I  was  presented  to  them. 

During  my  sojourn  in  Warnemunde  occurred  an  annual 
popular  festival,  in  which  the  Grand  Duke  and  his  court  always 
take  part.  When  their  Royal  Highnesses  came  to  Warne- 
munde and  saw  me  in  passing  by  my  window,  they  shook 
hands  and  graciously  invited  me  to  the  '  Stromfahrt '  in  the 
evening. 

Several  hundred  boats  of  all  sizes,  headed  by  that  in  which 
was  the  court,  went  down  the  Warne  river,  accompanied  by 
nuisic.  The  boats  were  all  decked  out  with  flower  garlands 
and  canopies,  illuminated  with  a  great  number  ot  Chinese  lan- 
terns. It  was  a  most  lovely,  animated  scene,  for  amid  great 
merriment  and  laughter  was  carried  on  an  original  warfare  be- 
tween the  crews  of  the  different  boats.  At  the  Roman  carni- 
val people  shoot  at  each  other  with  conlctti,  but  here  they  used 
flower  boi.  ^uets  which  before  being  thrown  were  dipped  in  the 
river.  It  was  rather  a  wet  game,  and  to  protect  our  toilets  we 
wore  all  our  waterproofs.  It  was  amusing  to  observe  the 
lovely  young  Grand  Duchess,  who  entered  with  much  spirit 
into  this  sport,  her  whole  face  beaming  with  pleasant  excite- 
ment,  whilst  throwing  incessantly  bouquets  in  all  directions. 
The  festival  lasted  until  ten  o'clock  p.m.,  when  the  royal  party 
mounted  their  carriages  and  returned  to  Heiligendamm. 

The  same  troublesome  law-suit  about  the  forged  signature 
which  called  me  back  from  Rome,  interfered  again  with  my 
plans,  and  on  an  urgent  letter  of  my  lawyer  I  had  to  return  to 
Bonn. 


A  Legacy.  379 

I  was,  however,  not  permitted  to  stay  at  h  ome  yet.  I  felt 
very  weak  and  ill.  The  physicians  said  that  my  whole  nervous 
system  was  in  disorder,  and  advised  me  to  go  again  to  the 
seaside,  and  I  selected  Scheveningen.  There  I  became  ^so 
weak  that  I  had  to  be  carried  up  and  down  the  staircase,  and 
had  to  go  in  a  perambulator  to  the  shore. 

Lt  is  true  I  had  undergone  many  fatigues  and  mental 
anxieties,  and  they  certainly  had  had  an  influence  on  my 
health  ;  but  during  the  excitements  and  occupations  of  the 
war  my  energy  had  carried  me  through,  and  I  might  have 
escaped  any  bad  consequences,  it  I  could  have  had  rest. 
More  than  all  bodily  tatigues  and  mental  anxieties  of  the  past 
years,  the  humiliations  and  mortifications  to  which  I  had  been 
subjected  since  my  return,  in  consequence  of  money  affairs, 
undermined  my  health.  Besides  this,  the  whole  position  in 
which  I  was  placed  made  me  melancholy.  My  very  limited 
income  compelled  me  to  restrictions  which  excluded  me  from 
the  company  to  which  I  was  used,  and  I  thought  it  much 
easier  to  live  in  a  convent  than  to  live  in  the  world  without 
means.  This  care  was,  however,  taken  trom  me  in  a  manner 
which  occurs  more  trequently  in  novels  than  in  reality,  but 
which  was  fortunately  reality,  and  changed  at  once  the  aspect 
of  afiairs  and  restored  my  health. 

Whilst  I  w^as  in   Schev'eningen,   feeling  most  miserable,   I 
received  the  news  that  a  distant  relative  in  America  had  left 
me  a  legacy.     The  exact  amount  ol  this  legacy  was  not  stated, 
but  a  sum,  which  seemed  to  me   at  that   time  very  great,  was 
placed  at  my  disposal.     I  believed  it  then  to  be  all  I  had  to 
receive,  and  was  anxious  to  employ  the  money   in  a  judicious 
manner,  and,   if  possible,   to  acquire  with   it  a  house  of  my 
own.     In  this  I  succeeded   beyond  my  expectation.     When  I 
rented  the  houce  in  Bonn  trom   Mr.    Cahn,  he  said,  in  the 
course  of  conversation,  that  it  I  wanted  to  buy  it  he  would  let 
me  have  it  tor  a  certain  moderate  sum.     Since  that   time   the 
price  ot  houses  had  increased  considerably,  and  I  knew  that  a 
good  many  thousands  more  than  the  sum  mentioned  by  Mr. 
Cahn  had  been  ofi'ered  to  him.     I  reminded  him,  however,   of 
his  offer  ;  and  though  it  was  not  made  in  such  a  manner  as  to 
make  any  legal  obligation,  he  was  kind  and  honourable  enough 
to  make  good  his  word,   and  I   bought  the  house  at  many 
thousands  below  its  actual  value. 


o80  Ten  Years  of  miy  Life. 

The  sum  which  I  received  was,  however,  not  the  whole 
legacy,  but  only  accumulated  interest,  of  which  I  was  informed 
later. 

I  had  nearly  forgotten  this'old  relative,  whom  I  had  seen 
only  when  I  still  v/as  a  child.  I  was  then  extremely  lively 
and  daring,  and  he  had  taken  a  great  fancy  to  me.  Whether 
he  was  then  already  rich  I  do  not  know ;  but  for  many  years  I 
had  scarcely  heard  of  him.  He  had,  however,  learnt  from  the 
papers  that  I  had  married  a  prince  ;  had  read  everything  writ- 
ten about  my  adventures  in  Mexico,  etc.  ;  and  being  pleased 
with  all  this  he  made  over  to  me  his  considerable  account  at 
his  bankers,  of  vvhich  capital  the  interest  was  to  be  paid  to  me 
after  his  death,  as  long  as  I  should  remain  unmarried. 

I  had  let  my  house,  furnished  as  it  was,  to  Baron  von  Gerolt, 
our  former  minister  in  Washington,  as  I  intended  to  travel  for 
a  long  time.  For  this  reason,  and  also  being  afraid  of  the 
winter,  I  resolved  to  go  to  a  southern  climate,  and  decided  to 
visit  Spain.  As  Miss  Runkel  wanted  to  return  for  a  time  to 
her  family,  I  took  with  me  one  of  my  cousins,  Countess  Con- 
stantine  Salm-Hoegstraeten. 

On  our  arrival  in  Spain  the  weather  was  very  bad  and  unfa- 
vourable for  travelling ;  I  thereiore  went  directly  to  Madrid, 
and  alighted  in  the  Fonda  de  Paris,_^where  we  felt  rather  mise- 
rable. My  good  luck  would,  however,  have  it  that  we  met  in 
Madrid  an  old  acquaintance  from  Rome,  Count  W ,  for- 
merly secretary  of  legation  there,  who  had  been  sent  mean- 
while as  charg^-daffaires  to  Madrid.  Though  he  had  only 
been  a  short  time  in  the  city  he  knew  more  of  Spanish  affairs 
than  I  did,  and  with  his  assistance  we  found  excellent  lodgings 
in  the  Casa  de  Nuespedes  de  Sefior  Jose  Perez,  which  hap- 
pened to  be  empty,  and  altogether  at  my  disposition. 

Everything  reminded  me  here  of  Cuba  and  of  Mexico  ;  but 
I  cannot  say  that  I  much  enjoyed  the  Spanish  dishes,  and  I 
was  glad  when  we  found  in  the  excellent  restaairant  in  the  Calle 
Alcazar  Parisian  fare. 

Speaking  of  Madrid  I  shall  follow  the  same  plan  as  I  did 
in  Rome;  that  is,  not  to  infringe  on  Murray's  handbooks, 
especially  as  that  about  Spain,  written  by  Mr.  Richard  Ford, 
is  most  excellent. '  I  admired,  or  rather  wondered  at,  the  ugli- 
ness of  Spanish  churches  in  comparison  with  those  in  Italy, 
and  at  the  solid  bridges  over  an  imaginary  stream,  the  Manza- 


Vievj  of  Madrid.  381 

nares.  This  river  was  so  dry  that  the  many  picturesque-look- 
ing washerwomen  could  scarcely  find  w-ater  enough  in  its  bed 
for  their  purposes.  After  thunderstorms  the  river  is  said  to 
swell  within  a  few  hours  to  a  dangerous  size,  but  this  is,  how- 
ever, only  of  very  short  duration. 

From  a  casa  del  campo  in  the  Manzanares  valley  one  has  a 
beautiful  view  of  Madrid,  especially  of  the  palace  and  of  the 
artillery  barracks,  which  acquired  some  notoriety  on  account 
of  what  happened  there  in  the  revolt.  There,  at  the  side  of 
the  monastery  of  St.  Fernando,  is  also  the  palace  of  the  Duke 
of  Ossuna.  1  wanted  to  see  it,  but  was  refused  entrance  with- 
out tickets.  These  were  of  course  easily  procured,  and  when 
people  heard  that  I  was  a  relative  of  the  duchess,  everything 
was  shown  me  most  readily.  It  is  a  splendid  dwelling,  and  I 
admired  much  the  order  in  which  it  was  kept  by  the  creditors 
of  the  duke,  who  had  taken  possession  of  the  palace. 

Though  the  duke  is  perhaps  the  richest  man  in  Spain,  his 
whole  fortune  consists  in  landed  property  ;  half  Andalusia  be- 
longs to  him,  I  believe  ;  but  owing  to  the  unsettled  state  of 
Spain,  the  fields  were  not  tilled,  and  the  farmers  did  not  pay 
any  rent.  Thus  it  may  be  easily  understood  that  the  richest 
man  in  Spain  was  momentarily  in  difficulties  and  in  the  hands 
of  his  creditors. 

I  saw,  of  course,  all  the  sights  of  Madrid  and  its  celebrated 
picture-gallery.  An  amiable  artist,  Senor  de  Grau,  of  whom  I 
bought  a  fine  aquarelle,  was  kind  enough  to  be  our  cicerone. 
I  took  with  me  photographs  of  the  most  celebrated  pictures  of 
Titian,  Velasquez,  Murillo,  and  Ruebens,  but  will  not  describe 
them,  because  '  my  paper  is  at  an  end,'  and  Mr.  Ford  has  done 
it  sufficiently. 

The  Arraeria  1  visited  also,  and  admired  the  wonderful 
armoury  of  kings  and  heroes.  The  finest  armour  seems  to  me 
that  of  Philip  II.,  which  was  presented  to  him  by  the  city  of 
Pampeluna.  The  most  wonderful  is,  however,  that  of  the 
Elector  of  Saxe — I  do  not  know  which — which  has  ample 
room  for  a  couple  of  Spanish  nights.  Astonishing  to  me  was 
the  armour  of  Christopher  Columbus,  w;hom  I  always  imagined 
with  a  compass  and  not  with  a  sword  in  his  hand.  He  must 
have  had  not  only  a  big  head,  but  also  an  almost  gigantic  body, 
offering  a  rather  ugly  appearance.  / 

In  the  cupboards  are  exhibited  many  historical  curiosities, 


382  len  Years  of  my  Lije. 

of  which  the  authenticity  is  as  doubtfal  as  of  many  more  holy 
relics.  There  is,  ior  instnnce,  a  sword  of  the  Cid,  rather  short 
and  broad  ;  the  sword  c.  Roland,  etc.  As  very  interesting, 
were  pointed  out  to  me  t\vo  oM  curious  shooting-irons,  said  to 
have  come  noni  Majorca,  already  one  hundred  years  before 
the  invention  o.  gunpowder  by  Berthold  Schwarz. 

I  went  also  fre(]uently  to  the  theatres,  and  saw  at  the  Italian 
Opera-house  '  Anna  Bolena,'  which  was  perJormed  rather  badly. 
Excellent,  however,  was  the  Spanish  theatre,  where  I  enjoyed 
many  lively  comedies,  which  I  witnessed  without  understand 
ing  much  oi  the  language.  Still  more  pleased  was  I  with  the 
Theatro  del  Principle,  where  historical  pieces  were  represented 
most  beautitully,  and  where  I  admired  tha  correct  costumes. 

Whilst  waiting  lor  the  commencing  at  the  theatre,  we  had 
a  little  characteristic  adventure.  We  were  sittmg  down  on 
some  empty  chairs,  when  a  rather  wild  and  suspicious-looking 
extremely  dirty  individual  placed  himself  close  before  me. 
Robberies  being  by  no  means  rare  in  Madrid — my  purse  was 
cut  out  of  my  dress   in  a  church — I  lelt  alarmed,  and  so  did 

Count  W ,  who  accompanied  us.     As  the  iellow  did  not 

moved,  the  count  pushed  him  somewhat  rudely  back,  without 
imagining  that  by  doing  so  he  would  raise  a  storm.  The  in 
jured  man  made  a  great  noise  ;  a  crowd  collected  at  once,  and 
with  them  came  some  policemen.  The  dirty  robber-like  iel- 
low turned  out  to  be  the  owner  of  the  chairs,  and  came  only 
to  collect  his  tare.  After  the  thing  v/as  explained  the  count 
offered,  as  a  peace-ofiering,  an  apology  in  the  shape  of  a  gold 
coin  ;  but  the  dirty  Spaniard  retused  it  with  the  disdain  oi  a 
caballero,  declaring  himseli,  however,  satisfied  i(  the  count 
would  shake  hands  with  him.  The  count  would  have  rather 
parted  with  his  goldpiece,  lor  the  ofiered  hand  was  shockingly 
dirty,  but  knives  being  very  loose  in  Madrid  he  bomplied  with 
the  dirty  caballero's  request  though  he  telt  all  the  evening  un- 
comfortable, no  water  being  at  hand. 

We  went,  ot  course,  frequently  to  the  Prado,  where  we  ad- 
mired the  Spanish  ladies  m  their  yellow  satin  robes,  black 
mantillas,  and  big  fans.  .  I,  of  course,  bought  at  once  such  a 
mantilla  and  a  fan,  and  as  my  complexion  is  somewhat  Spanish, 
I  flatter  myself  thlt  I  looked  much  J  ike  a  native. 

In  the  Prado  I  saw  Irequently  a  very  c/iic  coupe,  with  a  lady 
dressed  elegandy  in  the  Paiisian  style.  She  was  the  Duchess 
ae  la  Torre,  the  wife  of  Marshal  Serrano — a  great  man  now. 


Duchess  de  la  Torre,  383 

NotAvithstanding  her  mode  of  life,  the  Queen  was  very 
popular  with  the  loyal  Spaniards,  who  used  to  say,  whatever 
she  may  do  at  home,  t,when  she  puts  on  her  gloves,  she  is 
every  inch  a  queen.  Serrano  was  hated,  tor  he  treated  the 
Queen,  to  whom  he  owed  everything,  shamefully.  The 
measure  was  full  at  last ;  he  fell  into  disgrace.  The  Queen 
said  to  him  :  '  I  have  made  you  a  general  ;  I  have  made  you 
a  marquis  ;  I  have  made  you  a  duke, — but  I  never  could  make 
you  a  gentleman.' 

That  he  certainly  was  not,  and  never  will  be,  whatever  may 
be  his  titles  or  his  politics.  He  now  became  hostile  to  the 
Queen,  causing  infamous  newspaper  articles  to  be  written,  and 
declaring  himself  in  some  public  degree,  that  she  was  a  queen 
oi  whom  wives  and  daughters  of  Spaniards  must  be  ashamed. 
But  who  made  her  what  she  was? 

After  Prim's  death  Serrano  turned  radical.  He  offended 
the  Queen  of  Amadeus  in  the  most  insulting  manner  by  for- 
bidding his  wife  to  be  godmother  to  one  ot  her  children.  We 
have  not  yet  seen  the  end  of  Serrano.  May  he  meet  his 
deserts  ! 

Being  a  woman,  I  must  not  defend  Queen  Isabella  ;  though 
I  may  venture  to  say  that  she  deserves  more  compassion  than 
the  contempt  and  ridicule  with  which  she  has  been  t^-eated. 
Kings  like  her,  even  if  not  better  princes,  a^e  judged  very 
leniently,  but  queens  with  morbid  passions  are  forgiven  only 
if  great  as  sovereigns. 

I  also  saw  frequently  King  Victor  Amadeus,  either  on  horse- 
back or  in  his  carriage,  driving  himself  He  is  a  thin,  insig- 
nificant-looking man,  much  too  simple  in  his  habits  to  win  the 
love  of  the  Spaniards,  who  have  no  sympathy  with  citizen 
kings.  He  was  almost  always  seen  together  with  his  queen, 
who  is  a  very  virtuous  woman  and  good  wife,  and  who  was 
more  popular  than  Victor  Amadeus. 

The  King  was,  however,  a  man  of  pluck,  and  showed  it  ar 
the  great  attempt  against  him.  The  history  of  this  attempt  is 
still  a  mystery.  I  saw  the  narrow  street  in  which  it  took  place, 
and  it  is  difficult  to  understand  how  the  bullets  could  have 
missed  him.  Still  more  difficult  is  it  to  explain  why  the  police 
did  not  take  any  measures  to  prevent  such  a  crime,  as  it  was 
prepared  without  much  secrecy  and  evidently  expected  by  the 
police,  for  the  governor  of  the  city  followed  the  carriage  of  the 


38 4<  Ten  Years  oj  my  Life. 

King  in  a  fiacre  about  a  hundred  paces  behind  it.  The 
leader  of  the  conspirators  was  killed  on  the  spot  but — it  seems 
purposely — was  so  disfigured  that  he  could  not  be  recognized. 
Other  persons  arrested  escaped  from  prison,  and  thus  the 
prophecy  was  fulfilled  that  the  attempted  regicides  would  never 
be  punished. 

It  had  been  my  intention  to  travel  in  Andalusia,  to  make  re- 
searches in  reierence  to  relatives  of  my  mother,  but  things  in 
Spain  took  a  turn  which  made  travelling  in  the  country  very 
inconvenient  and  even  dangerous,  and  under  these  circum- 
stances I  resolved  to  give  up  my  purpose  and  to  return 
home. 

My  task  is  done  ;  my  book  at  last  finished.  When  occupied 
with  writing  it,  and  absorbed  in  my  recollections  of  the  past, 
all  I  have  told  seemed  very  interesting — to  me  :  whether  it  be 
interesting  to  the  public,  or  whether  I  should  have  done  bet- 
ter to  leave  my  book  unpublishd,  is  a  question  which  now 
suddenly  oppresses  me  in  an  uncomtortable  manner. 

I  suppose  I  must  take  my  chance,  like  greater  authors,  and^ 
prepare  myseli  against  some  critics,  who  will  say,  with  a  shrug 
of  their  shoulders,   *  American,  Mexican,  and  French  wars  ! 
AVhy,  that's  ancient  history  ;  we  are  tired  ot  it.     Why  did  she 
not  write  the  history  of  next  year  ?' 

I  most  humbly  beg  to  remark  that  I  do  not  pretend  to  write  his- 
tory at  all ;  but  only  my  personal  adventures  during  three  great 
wars,  in  which  I  by  chance  had  to  take  part.  I  would  not 
have  ventured  to  write  a  book  at  all,  had  not  some  men,  whom 
I  believe  to  be  competent,  encouraged  me,  saying  that  the 
narratives  of  personal  adventures  of  eyewitnesses,  if  told  simply 
and  truthfully,  are  much  valued,  because  they  serve  to  fill 
up  with  fl^h  and  give  colour  and  life  to  the  skejeton-like  dry 
histories  presented  to  us  so  frequently  by  most  learned  military 
authors  or  professors  of  history. 

What  I  experienced  and  saw  during  these  ten  eventful  years 
I  have  described  simply  and  truthfully,  expressing  my  opinions 
perhaps  with  too  little  reserve  ;  whether  they  are  worth  any- 
thing is  a  question  which  will  be  ansv/ered  by  others,  and  I 
have  only  to  excuse  myself  for  speaking  too  much  of  private 
affairs,  which  have  really  nothing  to  do  with  the  great  histori- 
cal events  which  form   the  frame  of  my  narrative.     If  I  have 


Conclusion.  385 

failed  in  this  respect  I  have  no  other  excuse  than  that  I  have 
acted,  as  it  were,  in  self-defence.  Some  persons,  taking  ad- 
vantage of  my  unprotected  position,  have  amused  themselves 
with  commenting  on  my  doings,  or  not  doings,  throwing  out 
hints  and  suggestions  which  might  create  prejudicial  opinions 
about  me  in  persons  whose  judgment  is  not  indifferent  to  me. 
To  set  them  right  I  had  to  make  known  some  facts  which  I 
otherwise  might  have  withheld.  If  these  facts  are  not  always 
agreeable  to  the  persons  concerned,  I  cannot  help  it  ;  every- 
one has  first  to  look  out  for  himself.  I  am  not  a  person  to 
suffer  in  silence. 

In  taking  leave  of  the  kind  readers  who  may  perhaps  be  in- 
terested in  my  fortunes,  I  beg  to  say  that  I  have  at  last  found 
that  rest  lor  which  I  longed  so  much.  I  have  a  home  with 
which  I  am  perfectly  satisfied,  am  independent  m  every  re- 
spect, and  have  some  true  friends  who  know  and  love  me  • 
more  I  do  not  desire. 


THE    END. 


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